Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
Reflection of Your Soul
NEVRESİM TAKIMI<br />
HAVLU<br />
BORNOZ<br />
BEBEK TEKSTİLİ<br />
Adress:<br />
19 Mayıs Mah. 19 Mayıs Cad.<br />
Golden Plaza Kat:9 D:3<br />
Şişli İstanbul<br />
Phone:<br />
0216 630 3178<br />
E-mail:<br />
maxhomen@maxhomen.com<br />
Web:<br />
www.maxhomen.com
4<br />
HTE<br />
Fairs care for<br />
pandemic but<br />
exports don’t!<br />
<strong>Home</strong> <strong>Textile</strong> <strong>Exports</strong><br />
Group Chairman<br />
Publisher<br />
H.Ferruh ISIK<br />
ISTMAG Magazin Gazetecilik<br />
Yayıncılık İç ve Dış Ticaret Ltd. Şti.<br />
Managing Editor<br />
(Responsible)<br />
Mehmet SOZTUTAN<br />
(mehmet.soztutan@img.com.tr)<br />
We were set to run in Europe in the first month of <strong>2022</strong> to make a fast start to<br />
the new year but Heimtexil, Domotex and IMM were all cancelled again. We will<br />
be heading to different geographies as long as we find open markets as we did<br />
throughout 2021.<br />
Advisory Board<br />
Osman Nuri CANIK<br />
Ufuk OCAK<br />
Hilmi GULCEMAL<br />
Pınar TASDELEN<br />
Ayse Mehtap EKINCI<br />
Post-covid syndrome is diagnosed in human health mostly for blood d-dimer level<br />
after recovery from covid. The world industries have been suffering post-covid<br />
syndrome although it is not completely past or passed yet. Due to the shortage<br />
of raw materials and a strong recovery in demand, the prices of linen, cotton and<br />
polyester have risen by more than 30% in the last six months.<br />
Editorial Consultants<br />
Assoc. Prof. Mehmet Ali OZBUDUN<br />
Inkrit BERBEE<br />
(inkrit@lobsterconcepts.nl)<br />
Milou KET<br />
(studio@milouket.com)<br />
Dr. Rolf ARORA<br />
With increased demand from the textile industry, global cotton stocks fell to a<br />
three-year low. Although cotton production is projected to increase by 5% in<br />
2021, the demand will outpace supply which will raise prices further. In the<br />
medium term, the main driver of growth in the cotton market will be the demand<br />
for textiles from the growing global population.<br />
According to a recent report by the World Bank, the average price for raw cotton<br />
in the first quarter of 2021 was $1.64 per kg, which is 3% higher than the average<br />
price in 2020. In the fourth quarter of 2021, prices are projected to rise to<br />
$1.72 per kg.<br />
The highest growth rates for the industry and demand for cotton are expected<br />
in Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey and China. The first four countries<br />
mentioned are becoming center points for the global textile industry due<br />
to cheap labor. In China and Turkey, the populations’ rising incomes will make<br />
production less competitive. Although Turkey’s case is a little more positive, it<br />
is assumed that domestic production will not be able to fully meet the demand<br />
of the industry in China, and the country will have to increase its imports. So,<br />
there is a huge potential and challenging opportunities in that great land for our<br />
exporters.<br />
Correspondents<br />
Domestic<br />
Advertising Manager<br />
International<br />
Sales Manager<br />
Technical Manager<br />
Art Director<br />
Chief Accountant<br />
Subscription<br />
Elke ARORA<br />
Adem SACIN<br />
(adem.sacin@img.com.tr)<br />
+90 505 577 36 42<br />
Omer Faruk GORUN<br />
(omer.gorun@img.com.tr)<br />
Ayca SARIOGLU<br />
(ayca.sarioglu@img.com.tr)<br />
Tel: +90 212 604 5100<br />
Tayfun AYDIN<br />
(tayfun.aydin@img.com.tr)<br />
Tolga CAKMAKLI<br />
(tolga.cakmakli@img.com.tr)<br />
Yusuf DEMIRKAZIK<br />
(yusuf.demirkazik@img.com.tr )<br />
Ismail OZCELIK<br />
(ismail.ozcelik@img.com.tr)<br />
We continue running. All industries in Turkey are the same. Despite pandemic,<br />
our country broke records after record in exports. According to the 2021 report<br />
of the Turkish Exporters Assembly, the total exports of all sectors in November<br />
increased by 33.44% compared to 16 billion dollars in the same month of the<br />
previous year and amounted to 21.5 billion dollars. Our annual exports reached<br />
221 billion dollars. The top three markets in our exports have been Germany, the<br />
UK and the USA, respectively.<br />
HEAD OFFICE<br />
İHLAS MEDIA CENTER<br />
Merkez Mah. 29 Ekim Cad.<br />
No:11 Medya Blok Kat:1<br />
Yenibosna / İstanbul / Turkey<br />
Tel: +90 212 454 22 22<br />
Faks: +90 212 454 22 93<br />
www.hometextile.com.tr<br />
BURSA<br />
KONYA<br />
LIAISON OFFICE:<br />
Buttim Plaza A. Blok Kat:4 No:1038<br />
Tel: +90. 224 211 44 50-51<br />
Fax: +90. 224 211 44 81<br />
H. Ulusahin Is Mrkz.<br />
C. Blok Kat:6 No:603-604-605<br />
Tel: +90. 332 238 10 71<br />
Fax: +90 332 238 01 74<br />
Mehmet SOZTUTAN<br />
(mehmet.soztutan@img.com.tr)<br />
PRINTED BY<br />
IHLAS GAZETECILIK A.Ş.<br />
Merkez Mah. 29 Ekim Cad.<br />
İhlas Plaza No:11 A/41 Yenibosna<br />
Bahçelievler/ISTANBUL<br />
Tel: 0212 454 30 00
8<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
Comfortable<br />
and sustainable:<br />
home and<br />
hobbywear made<br />
from warp knitted<br />
terry fabrics<br />
New market opportunities due<br />
to goods made of innovative<br />
materials and a TM 4-TS EL in<br />
a new width<br />
T<br />
he<br />
coronavirus has led to the rediscovery of<br />
our indigenous nature in many places around<br />
the world. Recreational opportunities that<br />
can be enjoyed close to home are gaining in<br />
importance, and traditional hobbies such as<br />
fishing are coming back into fashion, even among young<br />
people. If you want to land a big fish, you need not just<br />
the right equipment, but the right outfit too. Snuggly, soft,<br />
super-comfortable and quick-drying: the terry cloth shorts<br />
on this page (Fig. 1) complete the obligatory wellies-andchecked-shirt<br />
look for unlimited fishing pleasure.<br />
The fluffy textile was produced on a TM 4-TS EL. This terry<br />
warp knitting machine is designed for use with staple<br />
fibres, and processed the cotton for the shorts in combination<br />
with a matrix polyester microfibre yarn. The natural<br />
fibre yarn was knitted in as loops on the inside of the warp<br />
knitted terry cloth. The large surface area and the inherent<br />
properties of cotton give it a high absorbency, while the<br />
outside is made of a special man-made fibre yarn with fine<br />
fibrils that provide a soft, pleasant feel.<br />
Thanks to the warp knitting technology, the terry loops are<br />
reliably anchored into the ground structure by means of<br />
stitches. The high loop strength means the item is comfortable<br />
to wear for long periods of time with no loss of<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
10<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
quality. Given their long life, and also thanks to a manufacturing<br />
process that does not require sizing and desizing,<br />
terry knitted fabrics represent an ecological alternative to<br />
their woven counterparts. As such, the demand for them<br />
is high. In order to support its numerous customers in the<br />
terry cloth market, KARL MAYER is always working hard<br />
to ensure that its machines and textile products continue<br />
to evolve. As recently as June this year, the company<br />
launched its TM 4-TS EL with a new working width of 210”.<br />
Another of KARL MAYER’s latest innovations is a warp knitted<br />
terry cloth made using a bamboo yarn.<br />
TERRY.ECO: The ecological way to produce warp<br />
knitted textiles<br />
KARL MAYER’s portfolio includes a full range of machines<br />
for the highly efficient and ecological production of terry<br />
cloth. The range includes warp knitting machines with an<br />
integrated brushing system, as well as warping machines<br />
for processing filament and staple yarns. These innovative<br />
solutions bear the title TERRY.ECO.<br />
Warp knitted terry cloth made in this way is extremely durable<br />
and can be designed in a variety of ways. It can be<br />
used to produce absorbent cotton towels, as well as heavy<br />
towel qualities with weights of up to 600 g/m² and double-sided<br />
terry cloths. In particular, terry warp knitting machines<br />
with an electronic guide bar control system make<br />
loop-free areas possible for creating striped patterns, finished<br />
edges and small checks. What’s more, the lengths<br />
of the towels, the patterns, and the terry loop pile height<br />
can easily be changed within a fabric.<br />
Besides being chic, warp knitted terry articles also offer<br />
ecological benefits. The TM 4-TS EL model for processing<br />
staple yarns consumes approximately 87% less energy per<br />
kilogram of fabric produced than air-jet weaving looms,<br />
since it does not require any electrical power to generate<br />
compressed air. Also, no sizing process is required. This<br />
saves on textile auxiliaries, effluent and energy costs – to<br />
the value of about 0.20 US dollars/kg, or roughly 30%<br />
of the production costs for the grey fabric (excluding the<br />
yarn).<br />
In addition to this, the TM 4-TS EL impresses with its improved<br />
efficiency. With a width of 186” and a speed of<br />
800 rpm, the innovative model produces around 1,800<br />
kg of terry cloth weighing 400 g/m2 per day when used<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
12<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
in 24-hour operation. Its output is therefore approximately<br />
250% higher than that of an air-jet weaving loom.<br />
Combining the TM 4-TS EL with the ISO COTTON direct<br />
warping machine is a particularly effective way of giving<br />
customers maximum efficiency when producing warp<br />
knitted terry cloth made of cotton.<br />
Larger working width, greater output<br />
The TM 4-TS EL has become even more productive with<br />
the latest extension to its working width, from 186” to<br />
210”. Similar to its narrower counterpart, the super-wide<br />
model achieves a speed of 800 rpm and is also offered<br />
in gauges E 24 and E 28. Thanks to its higher gauge and<br />
fabric density, it can be used to produce premium-quality<br />
towels, which are currently in demand in China.<br />
Since the beginning of this year, China’s home textile<br />
exports have been rising rapidly. According to an internal<br />
survey at KARL MAYER, customer numbers have<br />
increased by around 54% in the first half of 2021 compared<br />
to the same period last year. This upward trend<br />
is expected to continue until the end of the year, and is<br />
mainly a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. In the wake<br />
of this globally rampant and highly infectious disease,<br />
people are staying at home and taking more interest in<br />
their own four walls. As part of the home textiles business,<br />
the towel market is also benefitting from this.<br />
For a long time, terry cloth bathroom items were considered<br />
low-price in China. This attitude has changed in recent<br />
years. On the one hand, improved living conditions<br />
have led to an increase in quality requirements, frequency<br />
and willingness to pay for towels. On the other hand,<br />
the growing trend towards customisation has led to new<br />
demands for use. Nowadays, customers increasingly expect<br />
their towels not only to offer good drying properties,<br />
but also to be colourful, stylish and feel pleasant to the<br />
touch, all while offering consistent quality.<br />
In light of the shift from a price-driven market to a quality-driven<br />
one, the TM 4-TS EL 210” in E 28 offers many<br />
competitive advantages. As such, it was no surprise<br />
that the newcomer drew plenty of interest when it was<br />
launched at an in-house show at KARL MAYER (CHINA)<br />
during ITMA ASIA + CITME in June 2021 (Fig. 2). The<br />
machine’s equipment includes a beam attachment of<br />
3 x 40” and 1 x 50”, as well as KARL MAYER’s carbon<br />
technology, which ensures high temperature stability in<br />
particular.<br />
Yarns made from bamboo viscose, greater variety<br />
in sustainable materials<br />
COVID-19 is confining people all over the world to their<br />
homes and causing demand for comfortable leisurewear<br />
to soar. As a result, product developers are working hard<br />
as well. In order to cater to the demand for feel-good<br />
outfits, a cosy terry fabric has been created using a yarn<br />
obtained from bamboo cellulose, thus also reflecting<br />
the trend towards sustainability (Fig. 3). The natural fibre<br />
material forms soft, absorbent loops that are densely arranged<br />
on the inside of the textile. The outside is made<br />
of a polyester microfibre yarn that creates an ultra-soft<br />
fleece layer.<br />
A sporty set comprising a hooded jacket and jogging<br />
trousers – made from this innovative double-faced material<br />
– was presented at KARL MAYER’s booth at ITMA<br />
ASIA + CITME in June 2021, where it attracted a great<br />
deal of attention. The warp knitted terry cloth was also<br />
an important topic at a company webinar held shortly<br />
after the exhibition.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
14<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
Fit for the terry<br />
cloth market<br />
The new ISO COTTON combined with the<br />
TM 4-TS EL sets new standards in the<br />
production of terry cloth<br />
Cotton terry cloth can be produced efficiently<br />
and sustainably using warp-knitting technology,<br />
so it’s no surprise that the KARL MAYER production<br />
equipment required for this process<br />
is in demand: the TM 4-TS EL terry machine,<br />
186”, in gauge E 24, and the new direct warping machine<br />
for the production of cotton sectional beams for warp knitting,<br />
the ISO COTTON.<br />
The new, highly efficient solution for warping the natural<br />
staple fibre was developed by KARL MAYER in 2020 and<br />
is based on the extensive expertise of the world’s market<br />
leader in warp preparation for weaving.<br />
The first models of the powerful direct warping machines<br />
have already been sold to test customers. An ISO COTTON<br />
left the KARL MAYER factory in Changzhou only at the beginning<br />
of July 2021.<br />
Direct warping of cotton – a demanding process<br />
As part of a KARL MAYER workshop at ITMA ASIA + CITME<br />
2019 – before the development work began – the question<br />
of whether a direct warping machine designed specifically<br />
for processing cotton was needed was discussed with the<br />
company’s experienced weaving preparation specialists.<br />
The answer was clear. For an optimum warping process,<br />
the natural fibre yarn must pass from the creel to the sectional<br />
warp beam as directly as possible, without passing<br />
through the numerous deflection points that are usually<br />
involved in the warping of filament yarns. Otherwise, too<br />
much fluff will build up or too much cleaning work will<br />
be required. What’s more, unlike in weaving, the circumferences<br />
of the sectional warp beams used for each order<br />
must be absolutely identical, as they are processed<br />
simultaneously on the TM 4-TS EL and arranged next to<br />
each other on a single axis. These two basic requirements<br />
meant it was necessary to develop a special machine.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
16<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
Sophisticated solutions for cotton processing<br />
The new ISO COTTON offers the incredibly short yarn<br />
paths, and thus a low-wear yarn journey. The material<br />
is led from the eyelet board, via the comb, directly to<br />
the main reed and thus to the take-up. An electronically<br />
controlled press roller ensures that the master and copy<br />
beams have the same circumference. If deviations occur,<br />
the contact pressure is adjusted to compensate accordingly.<br />
The resulting solution is completely new and highly<br />
efficient. “We can copy the circumference to within 1 mm<br />
without any problems,” said product developer Michael<br />
Bender following extensive in-house warping tests.<br />
In addition to circumference measurement, the ISO<br />
COTTON also comes with a new and innovative yarn tensioner.<br />
The new tensioner works with pairs of discs whose<br />
partners are pressed together with adjustable force via a<br />
magnetic field, and thus regulate the yarn tension based<br />
on the type of yarn.<br />
Highest warp quality and productivity<br />
Thanks to its innovative solutions, ISO COTTON produces<br />
sectional warp beams of the highest quality. The beams<br />
feature extremely homogeneous density, an absolutely<br />
cylindrical structure, completely identical circumferences<br />
and equal thread lengths. The computer-controlled length<br />
measuring system allows a length accuracy of 0.1%. The<br />
threads are also arranged precisely, and blowing devices<br />
on the comb and the main reed keep the contamination<br />
level to a minimum.<br />
In addition to this, the ISO COTTON also stands out thanks<br />
to its minimal scrap rates. For example, it is fitted with a<br />
kick-back device that ensures that the press roller swings<br />
away when the machine stops, thus protecting the wrap.<br />
Should a yarn break, a computer-controlled brake system<br />
enables short, precise braking distances.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
18<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
In addition to its yarn handling, the ISO COTTON also<br />
impresses on account of its productivity – with warping<br />
speeds of up to 1,000 m/min – and its price. Although it<br />
represents an extra purchase, application-specific cutting<br />
means investing in the ISO COTTON quickly pays off.<br />
Different warping options<br />
The ISO COTTON is available in two variants. For beginners,<br />
there is the ISO COTTON 21/40, which produces<br />
sets of 8 to 10 sectional warp beams each, with a maximum<br />
diameter of 40”. This model operates with a yarn<br />
tension of up to 200 N and a maximum press roller force<br />
of 300 dkN. KARL MAYER also has the bigger ISO COTTON<br />
84/40 in its range. The machine supplies the TM 4-TS EL<br />
with two sectional warp beams per axis, measuring 2,200<br />
mm x 1,000 mm, draws off the yarn with a tension of up<br />
to 450 N, and ensures identical circumferences with a<br />
maximum contact pressure of 600 dkN.<br />
In addition to the new ISO COTTON, a conversion kit has<br />
also been developed so that existing WARPDIRECT and<br />
BENDIRECT models can be used to produce cotton sectional<br />
beams for warp knitting. “By including this option,<br />
we hope to appeal to weaving companies that are looking<br />
to switch to warp knitting. Whether a retrofit is worthwhile<br />
or not must be investigated thoroughly on a case-by-case<br />
basis,” says Michael Bender.<br />
Combining the TM 4-TS EL and the ISO COTTON is a particularly<br />
effective way of ensuring maximum efficiency.<br />
For manufacturers who want to make fabrics using the<br />
on-trend mix of absorbent cotton on the inside and soft<br />
microfilaments on the outside, the use of a DS EC 2 21/30<br />
is also recommended. Potential factory layouts combine<br />
three TM 4-TS EL units with an ISO COTTON 21/40 and<br />
a DS EC 2 21/30. When using the larger ISO COTTON<br />
84/40, the two direct warping machines can even supply<br />
12 TM 4-TS EL units.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
22<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
Waterless<br />
<strong>Textile</strong> Printing<br />
technology<br />
without pre-<br />
treatment<br />
AA new era begins in the textile industry<br />
with the “non-pre-treatment and waterless<br />
printing technology”, which provides innovation<br />
in the field of inkjet textile printing<br />
machines. Approximately 95 to 400 liters<br />
of water are needed to produce one kilogram of printed<br />
textile products. Various technologies continue to be developed<br />
in order to eliminate the amount of water used<br />
in the textile world or to save money. Today, where water<br />
is very valuable, such high consumption is a concern for<br />
the future. On the other hand, textile wastewater contains<br />
high levels of organic and inorganic pollutants. This<br />
threatens both human and environmental health.<br />
Zero water consumption in the textile printing<br />
industry<br />
All international industrial companies are making efforts<br />
on new technologies to minimize or destroy the damage<br />
to the environment and nature. The amount of water<br />
and waste consumed especially in the textile industry is<br />
quite high. Reactive printing, which is one of the methods<br />
used in the printing of textile products, can only print on<br />
cellulosic fabrics. Machines that can print on both cellulosic<br />
and polyester fabrics are more preferred today.<br />
However, the printing methods used make a great need<br />
for additional machinery and the chemical processes per-<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
formed make an additional cost. Thanks to pre-process<br />
and waterless printing, the amount of water consumed<br />
has been reduced to zero and environmentally friendly<br />
machine production has begun to be preferred.<br />
23<br />
Optimum Digital has developed a pre-treatment<br />
and waterless printing technology<br />
Optimum Digital recently released it’s revolutionary<br />
NirvanaBelt: Green. This printer, the latest instalment in<br />
Optimum’s Innovation Series, is accelerating the green<br />
development of the industry. Without the need for pre<br />
or post-treatment, no additional machinery is required<br />
to print on cotton, synthetic cotton or polyester textiles.<br />
The innovative printing set-up eliminates the large<br />
amounts of wastewater traditionally used to treat textile.<br />
Waterless printing also reduces cost by 50%, while reducing<br />
energy and chemical usage by 80%. This results<br />
in environmentally sustainable prints for the fashion and<br />
interior design industries that are cost-competitive. A win<br />
for everyone, including the planet.<br />
Optimum Digital leading the way in<br />
environmental digital printing as part of its 2030<br />
Green Printing goals.<br />
The print service value, which was 3.16 billion Euros in<br />
2020, increased to 3.82 billion Euros in 2021. Although<br />
print service value declined in 2020 due to the effects of<br />
Covid, it will have regained its value increase by <strong>2022</strong>.<br />
In this period, the volume of inkjet-printed fabrics will<br />
almost double from 2.89 billion square meters to 5.53<br />
billion square meters in 2026. These data show that the<br />
share of inkjet in the total printed textile market has increased<br />
from 6% to 10%. It offers significant room for<br />
textile printing suppliers experiencing a post-Covid decline<br />
to grow and recover their losses.<br />
Freedom of design, customized fabrics, short print runs,<br />
faster reorders and the potential for printing with a lower<br />
environmental impact indicate that the market needs<br />
next generation machines. Optimum Digital evaluated all<br />
these needs and offered the Nirvana Belt textile printing<br />
machine to the service of the industry.
28<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
Maxhomen globalizes<br />
with the slogan of<br />
“expansion”<br />
The Maxhomen brand, addresses<br />
A-Plus consumer group, bears<br />
meticulousness and responsibility<br />
from selection of raw material<br />
to post customer satisfaction<br />
at every stage. The company<br />
attaches the importance of<br />
environmental friendly production<br />
solutions without sacrificing<br />
quality.<br />
Mutlu Acer, Maxhomen company representative,<br />
gives information about the product<br />
range and export markets.<br />
Can you mention the work of your<br />
company, your production and product groups for<br />
the home textile industry?<br />
We offer a comprehensive range of products with our<br />
MAXHOMEN brand. We are open to almost any innovation<br />
in our products, including but not limited to those listed<br />
below.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
As home and hotel textiles;<br />
29<br />
Towel, Bathrobe Group: Hand<br />
towel, foot towel, bath towel,<br />
loincloth, kimono bathrobe, and<br />
mat.<br />
Bed Linen Group: Duvet cover,<br />
bed sheet, pillow case, bedspread<br />
Baby <strong>Textile</strong>: Organic baby bathrobe,<br />
towel, apron, blanket<br />
Kitchen Group: Table Cloth, Tea<br />
Towel<br />
<strong>Home</strong> Apparel: Pajamas, basic<br />
t-shirt, sweatshirt, shorts set<br />
What is your monthly<br />
production capacity?<br />
Our average annual capacity is<br />
1,000 tons in the towel group;<br />
1,000,000 meters in home textiles.<br />
How much of your export<br />
sales are covered? What are<br />
your current export markets<br />
and your goals in this area?<br />
Our export sales is 80% of our<br />
revenue. Our current export markets<br />
are USA, Canada, Australia,<br />
United Arab Emirates and Qatar.<br />
Our <strong>2022</strong> target is specifically<br />
European and British markets<br />
and we already started required<br />
preparations according to this<br />
target.<br />
How has the pandemic<br />
affected your company?<br />
What changes have you<br />
observed in your current markets and export<br />
volume?<br />
During the pandemic , communication, shipping and production<br />
issues were experienced due lacks in customs<br />
and transportation by global curfew applications. These<br />
matters caused a decrease in our direct exports. And at<br />
the same time, we experienced an explosion in our online<br />
sales hence people shopped online more than ever<br />
during pandemic , so we oriented our sales strategy accordingly<br />
in this period. After a significant weakening in<br />
global economies last year, now we see an upward trend<br />
in textile industry.<br />
What are your plans for <strong>2022</strong>? Do you plan fairs<br />
at home and abroad? What are your products that<br />
you will exhibit at these fairs and that you are<br />
assertive?
30<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
We desire to participate Heimtextil in 2023 and our business<br />
development and design teams plan our preparations<br />
in this direction. Our export and sales teams close<br />
follow up domestic and international exhibitions to<br />
shape our collections from insights taken.<br />
As a domestic manufacturer, how do you<br />
evaluate our position in the sector, both at<br />
home and abroad? What are your short, medium<br />
and long term goals?<br />
Maxhomen brand successfully well positioned in domestic<br />
market as planned and desired in terms of product<br />
value vs performance rate and brand value vs consumer<br />
satisfaction. Our short term goal is developing exports<br />
to Europe and in long term opening Maxhomen stores<br />
in our export markets to compete with global players in<br />
the same league of most preferred brands in the World.<br />
What do you want to add and highlight in the<br />
news?<br />
The Maxhomen brand appeals to the A-Plus consumer<br />
group as positioning. We act very meticulously and responsibly<br />
as a team at every point regarding our product,<br />
from the selection of the raw material we use in our<br />
collections to the final packaging. So far, we have taken<br />
a step with this awareness while reaching the quality<br />
target we want for our brand in production. It is a must<br />
to make a loyal consumer profile to our brand. We attach<br />
importance to global environmentally friendly production<br />
solutions without compromising our quality in<br />
our brand products. It is our priority to keep the health<br />
benefits of our consumers high. We build our price performance<br />
within this framework.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
36<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
Elvin Tekstil continues<br />
to grow despite the<br />
pandemic<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
37<br />
Murat CANIK, General Manager of Elvin Tekstil, providing<br />
services on home textiles, stated that they have export-oriented<br />
growth targets and that they continue to grow despite the pandemic<br />
conditions.<br />
C<br />
anik, in the interview he gave to our magazine,<br />
underlined that they export to nearly 40 countries<br />
and that they produce highly innovative products<br />
with marvels of design. CANİK, expressing that they<br />
show up in textile fairs at home and abroad, noted<br />
that the Turkish textile market is a global sector.<br />
Mr. Murat, can you tell us about your company’s<br />
background and your personal business life?<br />
Our company has been in the field of decorative textiles since<br />
1959 as an integrated facility in the production of drapery, upholstery<br />
and decorative bedspread fabrics. It has ISO 9001, ISO<br />
50001, and OEKO-Tex and GRS certifications. It exports approximately<br />
85% of its production to nearly 40 countries, mainly to<br />
the European, USA, Japan, Australian and New Zealand markets.<br />
I have been working in various positions at Elvin Tekstil since<br />
about 2010. Since 2016, I have been working as the General<br />
Manager of our family company. We have been working for a long<br />
time together with our teammates for our company to achieve<br />
an export-oriented growth. Despite the ongoing pandemic conditions,<br />
we can easily say that we continue to grow.
38<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
Considering the Turkish textile industry, how do you<br />
position your company?<br />
Our company is trying to produce more value-added technical and decorative<br />
products. We are also a design center approved by the Ministry of<br />
Industry. We develop approximately 600-700 new products per year and try<br />
to present them to all our customers. For example, our primary goal is to<br />
produce flame retardant hotel textiles, products resistant to high light fastness,<br />
decorative and creative products that are OEKO-Tex certified harmless<br />
to human health. Producing this type of special products carries our company<br />
to a special point in the sector.<br />
Can you tell us about your export range and your future<br />
goals in this regard?<br />
We export approximately 85% of our production to nearly 40 countries,<br />
mainly to the European, USA, Japan, Australian and New Zealand markets.<br />
Our goal is to increase this amount every year. Our efforts to increase our<br />
cooperation with our partners in our target markets on this subject continue<br />
every day.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
40<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
Which fairs does your company attend? How did these fairs contribute to your company?<br />
The main fairs our company participates in are Heimtextile held in Messe Frankfurt and Istanbul Evteks fairs. We can say that these<br />
fairs are especially useful for establishing closer contact with foreign buyers.<br />
How do you evaluate the position of the Turkish textile industry in the global market?<br />
It would not be wrong to say that Turkish textile manufacturers are now a Global brand in the field of <strong>Home</strong> and Hotel textiles. We<br />
are in a very competitive position in terms of both creativity and price performance balance. We observe that Turkish companies<br />
are improving themselves day by day in terms of product development and quality. As a company, we will continue to work with all<br />
our strength to improve ourselves as we have mentioned.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
46<br />
HTE<br />
EVENTS<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
47<br />
The flagship event of<br />
the home industry has<br />
been cancelled again<br />
due to uprising covid<br />
cases in Germany. Near<br />
future events of Messe<br />
Frankfurt are considered<br />
to be done on time.<br />
Heimtextil<br />
faces another<br />
cancellation<br />
A<br />
gainst the background<br />
of the worsening<br />
pandemic situation<br />
in Germany<br />
recently and the<br />
associated restrictions, Heimtextil,<br />
scheduled to take place in the second<br />
week of <strong>February</strong>, is cancelled.<br />
Messe Frankfurt is working with the<br />
industry to determine whether and<br />
in what form a new offering in the<br />
summer of <strong>2022</strong> can be organized<br />
to run parallel to the Techtextil/<br />
Texprocess trade fair duo. Later
48<br />
EVENTS<br />
HTE<br />
events such as Ambiente,<br />
Christmasworld, Creativeworld,<br />
Paperworld and Frankfurt Fashion<br />
Week are still planning to take<br />
place at the scheduled time.<br />
Due to the unforeseeable dynamics<br />
in the development of the<br />
pandemic, the reciprocal and cumulative<br />
effects of the relevant<br />
factors, as well as the extreme escalation<br />
and deterioration of the<br />
pandemic situation in Germany<br />
within a very short period of<br />
time, including the decisions taken<br />
at the Conference of Minister<br />
Presidents on 02.12.2021, the<br />
date of Heimtextil right at the<br />
beginning of the year, in the second<br />
week of <strong>February</strong>, cannot<br />
be kept. Heimtextil, the leading<br />
international trade fair for home<br />
and contract textiles, will be cancelled.<br />
Messe Frankfurt is working<br />
closely with all industry partners<br />
to find out whether and within<br />
what framework Heimtextil can<br />
be held parallel to Techtextil and<br />
Texprocess from 21 to 24 June<br />
<strong>2022</strong>.<br />
Heimtextil as an international<br />
trade fair has always kicked off<br />
the spring trade fair season and<br />
is the first major international<br />
trade fair in Germany directly after<br />
Christmas and New Year with<br />
exhibitors and visitors from over<br />
135 countries. The exponential<br />
increase in the number of infections<br />
in a very short period of<br />
time and the accompanying multitude<br />
of developments and resolutions<br />
that are clearly outside<br />
the realm of influence of the organiser<br />
have led to a significant<br />
deterioration in the general conditions<br />
and necessary requirements<br />
for holding Heimtextil as<br />
a major trade fair of international<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
50<br />
HTE<br />
EVENTS<br />
relevance at this early stage. These developments include<br />
in particular the classification of Germany as a high-risk area<br />
and the associated travel warnings, international and intercontinental<br />
travel restrictions in India, Japan, the United<br />
States and Great Britain, as well as the quarantine obligation<br />
and “2G” (only with vaccinated and recovered status)<br />
requirements without recognition of the WHO vaccine list in<br />
Germany. Equally important are the steadily rising infection<br />
figures and the accompanying urgent appeal, including by<br />
the Robert Koch Institute, to reduce contacts to a minimum<br />
and to cancel all major events.<br />
A large number of the exhibiting and visiting companies<br />
at Heimtextil are currently reacting to this with travel and<br />
trade fair attendance bans out of an obligation of concern<br />
towards their employees to protect them from health risks.<br />
The global willingness to travel is continuing to fall rapidly.<br />
The planning and staging of the other spring trade fairs<br />
Ambiente, Christmasworld, Creativeworld and Paperworld is<br />
not affected. Due to their later dates in the year, at the end<br />
of <strong>February</strong> and mid-<strong>February</strong> respectively, these fairs are<br />
still planning to take place at the present time. Compared to<br />
Heimtextil, which is the most international trade fair at the<br />
Frankfurt location, Frankfurt Fashion Week currently has a<br />
much lower international profile and from this perspective<br />
can therefore still take place. The extremely volatile situation<br />
is continuously reviewed and evaluated in close exchange<br />
with the relevant authorities and industry partners.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Ozgul Packing, entered to packaging sector in<br />
1999 which takes an important place in Turkish<br />
and world economy; today it has carried<br />
production facilities to 4.000 m2 indoor area from<br />
140 m2 indoor area which was founded for PVC<br />
bags producing.<br />
Beside wire frame, piping and biding bags<br />
it has expanded markets which was provided<br />
box packing as well.<br />
Ozgul Packing is a leading company in<br />
machine parks in the line with changing IT, R & D<br />
Adil Mh. Vahdet Cd. Yamanlar Sk. No:9A/1 Sultanbeyli - Istanbul - TURKEY<br />
Phone: +90 216 592 62 44 Fax: +90 216 592 95 75<br />
Mail: info@ozgulambalaj.com
56<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
<strong>Home</strong> textiles made<br />
from bulky polyester<br />
filament yarn<br />
H<br />
ome<br />
textiles directly influence the feel-good<br />
factor of our personal surroundings. Being<br />
pleasant to the touch, soft and extremely<br />
aesthetic, highly-bulky upholstery fabrics for furniture,<br />
decorative fabrics and wall textiles, drapes and pleated<br />
curtains and even carpets can support and express our<br />
lifestyles and personalities. High-quality textiles for our<br />
beds, bathrooms and tables are frequently matter-of-fact<br />
for many of us. And high-end yarns are also used in the<br />
automobile industry – for seat upholstery, interior cladding<br />
and floor covering in cars. Often, they have to withstand<br />
heavy demands. For this reason, the yarn quality of the<br />
high-titer yarns must be correspondingly high.<br />
To date, DTY yarns up to 1200 den and with up to 784<br />
filaments have, as standard, been plied from four POY<br />
300d/192f bobbins using DTY machines. However, this<br />
process has a fundamental disadvantage: half of the texturing<br />
machine’s available winder positions are not used.<br />
And – in terms of machine efficiency – this is an unsatisfactory<br />
state of affairs.<br />
WINGS HD and eAFK Big V: efficient<br />
production of high-titer products using the<br />
POY and DTY process<br />
Here, Oerlikon Barmag offers yarn manufacturers a highly-efficient<br />
solution: the spinning concept with WINGS<br />
HD winding unit in conjunction with an automatic eAFK<br />
Big V Multispindle texturing machine is currently the only<br />
system on the market for manufacturing excellent-quality<br />
high-titer yarns with maximum machine efficiency.<br />
WINGS HD – superb efficiency and functionality<br />
12 POY packages of up to 600d/576f (final) are produced<br />
in the spinning process using WINGS HD 1800. This is<br />
made possible as a result of an additional godet, which<br />
ensures that the high yarn tensions developing in the<br />
process are reduced to the yarn tensions common in the<br />
case of the winding process to date. At the same time,<br />
the newly-developed suction unit with the accompanying<br />
yarn cutting device (yarn collecting system) ensures – both<br />
during string-up and in the event of a yarn break – reliable<br />
handling of the yarn with an overall titer of 7,200 den (final)<br />
and 6,912 filaments.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
58<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
With this, the Oerlikon Barmag eAFK<br />
Big V Multispindle machine uses all<br />
winder positions and hence has the<br />
full production capacity at its disposal<br />
for manufacturing DTY yarns of 1200<br />
den with up to 1152 filaments. Multiple<br />
plying of individually-spun filaments to<br />
create a high overall titer fundamentally<br />
impacts yarn quality. With the Oerlikon<br />
Barmag concept, this is minimized by<br />
plying the highest titers possible.<br />
eAFK Big V Multispindle –<br />
productive and yarn-gentle<br />
The eAFK Big V Multispindle texturing<br />
machine is based on the tried-and-tested<br />
eAFK Multispindle concept, with<br />
two individual friction rows. The high<br />
individual titers of up to 600 den per<br />
single filament can be textured using<br />
more powerful godet motors, a more<br />
powerful friction unit and a 2.5-m heater.<br />
The straight configuration of heater<br />
and cooling unit ensures particularly<br />
gentle yarn handling with a simultaneous<br />
drawing/crimping process. This is<br />
especially important for producing delicate<br />
microfilament yarns of the best<br />
quality. Thanks to this multiple configuration,<br />
576 texturing positions can be<br />
efficiently utilized when manufacturing<br />
high-titer yarns, which are then taken<br />
up using all 288 positions. And the machine<br />
is particularly efficient in the high<br />
titer range of between 900 and 1200<br />
den. Here, the operating window of<br />
between 30 and 1200 den offers yarn<br />
manufacturers maximum flexibility.<br />
The eAFK Big V texturing concept was<br />
launched in 2018, and has already convinced<br />
numerous yarn manufacturers<br />
with its performance.<br />
Superbly suited to the efficient<br />
production of high-titer<br />
yarns: the Oerlikon Barmag<br />
concept comprising WINGS<br />
HD and eAFK Big V.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
64<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
The trendiest<br />
floral patterns<br />
of the season<br />
are in the<br />
rooms with<br />
Linens!<br />
Offering different and stylish products for home life under<br />
one roof, Linens continues to bring the most eye-catching<br />
trends of the year to living spaces. Linens transforms<br />
living spaces into a flower garden with its large floral<br />
bedding set dominated by green tones in its collection.<br />
Those who follow the home textile fashion closely and those<br />
who want to renovate their homes, can find the trendiest<br />
products they are looking for in the Linens collection. The<br />
duvet cover set, which stands out in its collection, makes a<br />
stylish touch to living spaces with its color and pattern.<br />
The duvet cover set, which is designed with large floral patterns<br />
and offers a comfortable sleeping environment with its<br />
cotton satin fabric, adds a brand-new atmosphere to bedrooms<br />
with its elegant color.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
66<br />
HTE<br />
PROFILE<br />
Wülfing gets<br />
much MORE from<br />
Monforts<br />
Family-owned German home textiles leader boosts<br />
production with a complete finishing line upgrade.<br />
F<br />
or leading European textile manufacturers,<br />
adapting quickly to changing and highly uncertain<br />
market conditions has long been a<br />
necessity. The need for flexibility has only<br />
been intensified since the onset of the<br />
Covid-19 pandemic.<br />
Monforts has been able to assist its customers all along the<br />
way through this difficult period, not least with its MORE –<br />
Monforts Original Replacement Equipment – programme.<br />
The Monforts commitment to customer service is based<br />
on four principles – helpful, accurate, fast and reliable.<br />
The company has established a reputation for quickly<br />
and efficiently dispatching spares and components where<br />
they’re needed worldwide.<br />
Monforts machines are known for their robustness and<br />
long service life, but major advances in digital technology<br />
mean that there are now significant gains to be made in<br />
the retrofitting of the latest automatic drives and control<br />
systems to machines, going far beyond the basic replacement<br />
of spare parts.<br />
<strong>Home</strong> textiles leader<br />
Wülfing GmbH, founded in 1885, is one of the oldest<br />
but also the most modern home textiles companies in<br />
Germany, with its main weaving and finishing operations<br />
located in Borken, North Rhine-Westphalia, and a further<br />
A completely new joint control system joins the two machines seamlessly.<br />
jacquard weaving mill in Steinfurt, as well as with a making<br />
up and packaging plant in the Czech Republic.<br />
The family-owned company’s extensive home textiles portfolio<br />
– spearheaded by the well-known Dormisette brand<br />
of bed linen – is supplied both to a wide range of retailers,<br />
discounters and catalogues, as well as to airlines hotels,<br />
retirement homes and other public institutions.<br />
In addition, Wülfing is also a specialist in African damask<br />
fabric weaving at the production site in Steinfurt.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
67<br />
Two almost identical<br />
Monforts<br />
sanforizing lines<br />
now provide<br />
Wülfing with<br />
much improved<br />
flexibility.<br />
All told, the company has over 500 employees and with<br />
160 weaving machines in continuous operation has an annual<br />
capacity of 60 million square metres of cotton fabrics<br />
– roughly the area of 8,400 football pitches. In addition<br />
200,000kg of high quality 95% cotton yarns are always<br />
in stock, with 15,000kg processed into fabrics on a daily<br />
basis.<br />
“Our particular strength is in wide-width weaving and the<br />
development of customer-specific ranges,” says Gerd<br />
Schulte-Mesum, Wülfing’s Borken plant manager. “We<br />
have fully-integrated production in Germany on the most<br />
modern machines and flexibility is fundamental to our<br />
continued success. The fast-moving market demands ever-increasing<br />
innovation, service and the rapid implementation<br />
of new ideas.”<br />
Fabric stability<br />
At its Borken plant, Wülfing has employed a Monforts<br />
sanforizing line since 2009 to guarantee the required dimensional<br />
stability and shrink-fastness of its high quality<br />
bed linen. With a working width of over three metres, the<br />
sanforizing process is a central pillar in the production of<br />
typical wide-width cotton fabrics for home textiles.<br />
In 2017, the company was able to acquire a second<br />
Monforts sanforizing line from another company which,<br />
although built in 2005, had been virtually unused. It was<br />
overhauled and installed behind a Monforts equalizing<br />
frame of a similar age.<br />
“Unfortunately, the two machines had to be operated<br />
separately via individual controls and did not represent<br />
an integrated unit,” says Schulte-Mesum. “This resulted<br />
in deficits in the desired productivity and in the control<br />
technology.”<br />
Wülfing consulted with Monforts on a number of upgrade<br />
options and opted for a completely new joint control system<br />
to merge the two machines, as well as a new connecting<br />
inlet, a tensioning and damping field and a steaming<br />
unit.<br />
“Monforts provided a fast and precise erection and commissioning<br />
of the technology in spite of the difficult pandemic<br />
circumstances,” says Schulte-Mesum. “The result<br />
has been an increase in production speeds by 20% and<br />
enhanced uniformity in fabric width through a much improved<br />
guidance system.<br />
“We are also achieving energy savings as a result of the<br />
new control and drive technology and operation has been<br />
simplified and improved as a result of the unified control.<br />
We benefit from simplified access for maintenance work<br />
such as the grinding of the rubber blanket, but most of all<br />
we have greatly improved our flexibility and now have two<br />
almost identical Monforts sanforizing lines.”<br />
“It’s been a pleasure to work with the team at Wülfing on<br />
this project, which demonstrates what is possible in the<br />
modification and upgrading of Monforts machines already<br />
in operation,” adds Thomas Päffgen, Monforts Area Sales<br />
Manager.
68<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
Warmest sleep<br />
with Puffy quilts<br />
The quilts in the white home textile collection of<br />
Puffy, the new brand of Yatas Group that set out to<br />
bring everyone together with the good sleep they dream<br />
of, provide a comfortable sleep experience by wrapping<br />
you in the warmest way during the winter.<br />
udget friendly quilts in the white home textile<br />
Bcollection of Puffy, the new brand of Yataş<br />
Group, which is the Turkey’s leading brand<br />
in home textile with the years of experience<br />
in sleep technologies, improve sleep quality<br />
with the most suitable filling materials and<br />
quality fabrics for human health and comfort.<br />
One of these products, Dulcet Wool Quilt, appeals to<br />
those looking for a warm, natural and healthy sleep with<br />
its high air permeability cotton fabric and special wool filling<br />
with a light structure. It distributes the temperature<br />
homogeneously and creates the ideal sleep temperature.<br />
Moreover, it maintains the moisture balance by allowing<br />
the body to breathe during sleep.<br />
Luce Goose Down Quilt is both very soft and warm… With<br />
its hydroscopic feature, it allows the body to absorb moisture<br />
and balances body temperature; while prevent sweating<br />
it preserves its form for many years. In addition, Luce<br />
Goose Down Quilt, which has double heat preservation<br />
feature compared to other filling materials, draws attention<br />
with its lightness.<br />
Corbell Quilt, which wraps you warmly like a cocoon, maintains<br />
the moisture balance of the body with its breathable<br />
natural cotton fabric and prevents sweating. Providing a<br />
warm, comfortable and soft usage experience thanks to its<br />
siliconized fiber filling, Corbell Quilt also provides ease of<br />
cleaning with the advantage of being machine washable.<br />
Providing maximum comfort with its light and fluffy structure<br />
provided by its fiber filling, Semmy Quilt promises a<br />
comfortable and warm sleep with its soft texture. Machine<br />
washable Semmy Quilt offers a warm sleep in winter and<br />
a cool one in summer.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
72<br />
PROFILE<br />
HTE<br />
Streetart on the beach<br />
Warp knitted terry fabric with digital prints for even more bathing fun<br />
T<br />
owels are not only useful for drying off, but<br />
they can also steal the show from bathing<br />
beauties. You only need to look at the extravagant<br />
example on this page to see how.<br />
The terry cloth product produced by KARL<br />
MAYER creates vibrant accents with lively motifs in bright<br />
colours no matter whether you are around the swimming<br />
pool, at the beach or even simply next to the washbasin<br />
in the bathroom.<br />
The textile was produced on a TM 4-TS EL with double-sided<br />
fabric to ensure that the finished product is not only<br />
a must-have bathing accessory, but also a real eye-catcher.<br />
One side features a dense layer of cotton loops. It<br />
quickly absorbs moisture from the skin after bathing and<br />
nestles gently against the body. The other side consists<br />
of sheared polyester. Its soft texture invites you to relax,<br />
while its smooth finish makes it both easier to print on<br />
and quicker to dry. The imaginative design was created<br />
at ZIMMER AUSTRIA using a digital printing process. The<br />
specialist for printing, coating and finishing systems did<br />
a great job. KARL MAYER’s textile developer, Melanie<br />
Bergmann, couldn’t be happier with the results: “The colours<br />
are extremely vibrant and vivid while the contours<br />
are sharp. Even the finest lines are clearly defined,” says<br />
the textile engineer.<br />
Warp knitting technology with a firmly integrated terry<br />
loop ensures that the colourful towels can be enjoyed for<br />
a long time to come. The fluffy fibre layer is extremely<br />
resistant to thread pullers. The long service life and ecological<br />
advantages in production distinguish warp knitted<br />
terry articles from their weaving counterparts. The TM 4-TS<br />
EL does not require compressed air like conventional airjet<br />
rapier looms and therefore consumes around 87 %<br />
less energy per kilogram of fabric produced. The sizing<br />
process is also eliminated in warp knitting. This saves<br />
textile chemicals, waste water and energy to the tune of<br />
approx. 0.20 USD/kg. This corresponds to about 30 % of<br />
the manufacturing costs – excluding yarn – for the production<br />
of the raw material. Apart from saving costs, the terry<br />
warp knitting machine is extremely efficient. With a width<br />
of 186” and a speed of 800 rpm, the TM 4-TS EL produces<br />
around 1,800 kg of terry cloth weighing 400 g/m2 every<br />
day in 24-hour operation. This is around 250 % more than<br />
on an airjet rapier loom.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Asia’s<br />
Leading<br />
Event
74<br />
EVENTS<br />
HTE<br />
From the Aztecs<br />
to Macintosh and<br />
beyond...<br />
Monforts Head of Technical <strong>Textile</strong>s Jürgen Hanel outlines the<br />
development of the textile coating industry and the fundamental<br />
principles behind today’s advanced coating processes.<br />
Humans are the only primates without fur to<br />
protect themselves from the elements and<br />
first used animal skins and furs to shield<br />
themselves from either the cold or from UV<br />
radiation, depending on where they were in the world.<br />
Over 5,000 years ago, fabrics woven from plant fibres<br />
and wool were then developed, bringing many advantages<br />
such as their warmth, softness and breathability, as well<br />
as UV-shielding, and the development of dyeing gradually<br />
gave rise to the concept of fashion.<br />
There remained, however, a problem – protection against<br />
rain for those in wet climates, and later, for seafarers. Furs<br />
and leather were still widely used for this purpose until<br />
very recently.<br />
Waterproofing<br />
It took until the 19th century for a workable solution to<br />
finally be developed by the Scottish textile manufacturer<br />
and inventor Charles Macintosh, although waterproofing<br />
garments with rubber was not a new idea, having been<br />
practiced by the Aztecs in pre-Columbian times.<br />
Later, French scientists made balloons gas-tight and impermeable<br />
by impregnating fabric with rubber dissolved<br />
in turpentine, but this solvent was not satisfactory for<br />
making apparel. Macintosh too, first impregnated a thick<br />
woollen fabric with a solution of natural rubber. The result<br />
was waterproof but stank of petroleum and was sticky due<br />
to the wool grease.<br />
Schematic of the roller knife coating principle.<br />
Only when a method was developed for coating the fabric<br />
on one side and heating the rubber in a dryer with the addition<br />
of sulphur – the process of vulcanization – was the<br />
Macintosh coat fabric ready for commercialisation.<br />
How the fabric was coated and in which drying oven it was<br />
vulcanized is unfortunately not known, but this development<br />
formed the basis for textile coating as we know it<br />
today.<br />
Air knife coating<br />
There are two fundamentally different basic coating<br />
processes – air knife coating and roller knife coating.<br />
In air knife coating, a squeegee blade brushes over the<br />
surface of the textile, pressing the highly viscous coating<br />
paste into the spaces between the material.<br />
It is impossible to coat low-viscosity chemicals with this<br />
method or the paste will drip through the meshes/weave<br />
interstices.<br />
Air knife coating, however, is used firstly wherever sealing<br />
of the fabric is required, for example on umbrellas to prevent<br />
spray mist getting through to the inside. Other examples<br />
include shower curtains, rainwear, bag and rucksack<br />
fabrics, tents etc.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
75<br />
The latest modular Monforts texCoat coating system on<br />
display at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.<br />
Schematic of the roller knife coating principle.<br />
Air knife coating is also used for mattress tickings and<br />
upholstery fabrics. In this case a back coating is applied<br />
which has a double function – the material is made liquid-tight<br />
and in addition it is fixed. In the case of upholstery<br />
fabrics, this fixes the pile, but can also be used to<br />
achieve technical effects such as flame protection.<br />
In fashion and decorative articles, air knife coatings are<br />
also used for one-sided colouring, while textile materials<br />
for shoes are coated to make them waterproof.<br />
Technical textiles<br />
The areas of application with the air knife coating of technical<br />
textiles are extremely diverse, ranging from filter<br />
fabrics to textile seals and to carbon fibre impregnation.<br />
In addition to coating with a thickened paste, there is also<br />
air knife coating with foam. In this case, physical foam is<br />
produced in a special foam machine (similar to whipped<br />
cream) and placed in front of the coating knife. The foam<br />
is pressed into the fabric by the knife and the foam is<br />
destroyed.<br />
This so-called unstable foam coating is used, for example,<br />
for over-dyeing jeans. In a coloured/colourless version,<br />
nonwoven fabrics are also fixed and overdyed in this way.<br />
The term “unstable” does not mean this is bad foam.<br />
Unstable foams remain stable below room temperature<br />
for at least five minutes and do not decompose, but the<br />
air bubbles then burst under the knife, or at the latest<br />
when the foam is subsequently heated in the dryer.<br />
Aztec stone statue detail. © Shutterstock<br />
Foam coating with the air knife has many advantages – by<br />
diluting the coating chemical with air, less drying power<br />
is required, and the penetration depth is lower, while the<br />
breathability of the textile is maintained.<br />
Roller knife coating<br />
In roller knife coating – also called roller nip coating –<br />
the application with the knife is practically flying, without<br />
touching the upper side of the textile.<br />
This has various effects on the final product. The application<br />
in the nip, for example, covers the surface of the<br />
textile with the coating compound to give this side of the<br />
fabric a plastic-like surface, which is determined by the<br />
chemistry used.<br />
Well-known examples of roller knife coated fabrics are tarpaulins,<br />
life jackets, carpet backing, upholstery fabrics,<br />
trunk covers, sealing materials and many others.<br />
Roller knife coating places very high demands on the<br />
precision of the machine, in contrast to air knife coating.<br />
Nevertheless, combinations of these two coating types
76<br />
HTE<br />
EVENTS<br />
The textile industry was challenged to develop a material that would repel rain,<br />
but at the same time be breathable for the wearer. © Shutterstock<br />
are mainly offered today. For this purpose, the coating<br />
knife bar is designed to be horizontally adjustable and the<br />
precision achieved depends on the supplier of the coating<br />
machine.<br />
The roller knife can be used in the same way as the air<br />
knife with paste, for example in the coating of PVC tarpaulins,<br />
emergency slides, inflatable boats and sealing mats.<br />
Both unstable and stable foams are used in roll knife coating.<br />
If a layer of unstable foam is applied, it decomposes<br />
in the first zones of the dryer.<br />
The roller knife coating of unstable foams (also referred to<br />
as “metastable foams”) is used in the production of jeans<br />
to dye over the denim material on one side, for example.<br />
By applying the coloured foam on the surface, a good<br />
over-dyeing is achieved, which can be washed out easily in<br />
industrial laundering to achieve the desired “stonewash”<br />
effects.<br />
Stable foams survive the drying process in the dryer (under<br />
very mild drying conditions) and leave the dryer as a<br />
foam layer.<br />
Black-out fabrics<br />
A good example of an application for roller knife coating<br />
with stable foams is in the production of black-out fabrics<br />
for blinds or curtains. These products require special<br />
treatment in order to retain the softness of the fabrics<br />
and to ensure that it is still possible to wind blinds up<br />
and down. A special coating called Black-Out has been<br />
established to achieve this, involving a three-stage series<br />
of stable foam coatings with the roller knife.<br />
The first coating is usually white, followed by a black layer<br />
and then a white layer again. These three layers are dried<br />
and are with a crush calendar after each layer is applied.<br />
A fourth dryer passage then cure all three layers together<br />
with the possible addition of a last topcoat to improve the<br />
grip.<br />
This process is complex and expensive, and mistakes can<br />
result in the entire production run being rejected, so experienced<br />
and trained personnel are required.<br />
A similar process is used in the production of advertising<br />
banners, which is called ‘block-out’. This is a multi-layer<br />
foam coating to prevent the image/text of the banner from<br />
showing through on the back side of the material.<br />
Rubber coating<br />
Let’s return here to the Macintosh and coating with rubber,<br />
as a rather amazing application for roller knife coating.<br />
The applied rubber layer is so waterproof and airproof that<br />
such materials can also be used for lightweight boats, life<br />
rafts, life jackets and emergency slides in aircraft.<br />
However, such basic waterproof fabrics have a problem<br />
in apparel, in not allowing the moisture generated by the<br />
wearer to escape. Consequently, the textile industry was<br />
challenged to develop a material that would repel rain,<br />
but at the same time be breathable for the wearer.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
3
78<br />
HTE<br />
EVENTS<br />
Probably the first product to meet this challenge was (and<br />
still is) marketed as Gore-Tex® for outdoor clothing. Gore-<br />
Tex®, however, is not a coated fabric, but a waterproof,<br />
breathable membrane that has been laminated.<br />
The availability of water vapor permeable polyurethane<br />
dispersions also allowed direct coating on the inside of<br />
the fabric. This is where roller knife coatings are applied.<br />
Depending on the required stress, stable foam coatings<br />
and also paste coatings are used.<br />
Lamination<br />
Lamination is generally understood to be the joining together<br />
of two or more layers of textile, film, membrane<br />
or fleece and to keep the layers together an adhesive is<br />
needed, which can be applied by either coating or screen<br />
printing.<br />
A distinction can be made here between dry or wet lamination.<br />
In wet lamination, the adhesive is initially applied<br />
to the first layer and the second layer is then placed in<br />
the wet application before the two materials are dried and<br />
fixed together.<br />
The disadvantage of this process is the hardness/rigidity<br />
of the laminated end product. In dry lamination, the adhesive<br />
is applied to the first material and dried and the<br />
second layer is then applied to it via high pressures, usually<br />
by a calender. A special case is that of stable foam<br />
lamination.<br />
In this process, a layer of foam is applied by a roller doctor<br />
blade and carefully dried. The second layer is then<br />
placed into the dry foam by a crush calender. Afterwards,<br />
however, this laminate must still be thermally fixed. Foam<br />
lamination has the softest touch and in the case of polyurethane<br />
foam the laminate is also thermally resistant, as<br />
the adhesive is not thermoplastic after fixing.<br />
Conclusion<br />
In this article I have tried to provide an overview of the<br />
technology of textile coating and would like to conclude<br />
by listing just some of the coated materials that are to be<br />
encountered in daily routines.<br />
We can start with the mattress cover, slippers, the shower<br />
curtain and the bathmat and move through to the dining<br />
table with its coated tablecloth, then out to the hallway<br />
for a rain jacket and umbrella. In the car, countless more<br />
coated fabrics are to be found, from the seat cover to the<br />
trunk, and just as many coated materials will be encountered<br />
by commuters using trains or buses.<br />
<strong>Textile</strong> coating is still a technology of the future with which<br />
money can still be made. With the increase of lightweight<br />
construction, just as one example, fibre reinforced materials<br />
are becoming increasingly important. Here, textiles or<br />
fibre scrims are only used to reinforce the plastic matrix,<br />
but the technology of production is similar and therefore<br />
represents another growth area for textile coating.<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>