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11th ICRS Abstract book - Nova Southeastern University

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Oral Mini-Symposium 15: Progress in Understanding the Hydrodynamics of Coral Reef Systems<br />

15-14<br />

Momentum Balances Across A Wave-Dominated Coral Reef<br />

James HENCH* 1 , Hunter LENIHAN 2 , Stephen MONISMITH 1<br />

1 Environmental Fluid Mechanics Laboratory, Stanford <strong>University</strong>, Stanford, CA,<br />

2 <strong>University</strong> of California, Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara, CA<br />

For many coral reefs, circulation is dominated by waves breaking over the reef crest that<br />

drive a strong circulation over back reef habitats. Unlike classical work on beaches,<br />

where the primary momentum balance is between radiation stress gradients and set-up of<br />

the free surface, flows over coral reefs typically have mean flows into a lagoon, and thus<br />

friction can also be important in the momentum balance. Unfortunately friction on coral<br />

reefs is difficult to estimate a priori due to the remarkably high rugosity. Here we studied<br />

a nearly tideless system in Moorea, French Polynesia to isolate the effect of wave forcing<br />

on coral reef circulation. An array of 7 stations spanning the forereef, reefcrest and<br />

backreef areas, were each instrumented with pressure sensors and velocity profilers. The<br />

resulting data were used to estimate the contribution of each term in the cross-reef<br />

momentum balance, as well as corresponding bottom friction coefficients. Initial results<br />

show that the momentum balance varies markedly with distance from reefcrest and<br />

transitions from a radiation stress and set-up balance, to a friction and set-up balance.<br />

15-15<br />

Defining Drag Coefficients For Coral Reefs<br />

Johanna ROSMAN* 1 , James HENCH 1<br />

1 Environmental Fluid Mechanics Laboratory, Stanford <strong>University</strong>, Stanford, CA<br />

Coral reefs form a very rough bottom boundary that is porous to water flow. Drag due to<br />

a coral reef is typically modeled using a simple quadratic drag law with a bulk drag<br />

coefficient; however, several different definitions have been used in the literature and a<br />

wide range of values have been reported. We have developed a formal framework for<br />

estimating drag coefficients for flow over coral reefs in the absence of surface waves. We<br />

consider three different definitions, in which the above-canopy, within canopy and depthaverage<br />

velocity are used for the drag parameterization. Using a simple two layer model<br />

we derive expressions for the drag coefficient in terms of morphological and flow<br />

parameters. We show that drag coefficients can vary by more than an order of magnitude<br />

for the same geometry and flow, depending on the definition used.<br />

15-16<br />

Roughness and the Effects of its Spatial Variability on Coral Reefs<br />

Clifford HEARN* 1<br />

1 ETI Professionals at USGS, St Petersburg, FL<br />

Topographic and bathymetric complexity are key controls on the hydrodynamics of coral reefs.<br />

They exist on all spatial scales from microns to kilometers on reefs and within hydrodynamic<br />

studies are all treated as part of the spatial spectrum of the generalized concept of ‘roughness’.<br />

Coral reef hydrodynamics treats roughness in a variety of ways at different spatial scales.<br />

Roughness has a major influence on the way that currents flow over reefs and the processes by<br />

which energy is transported and dissipated. A fundamental property of roughness is that the<br />

average roughness below any specified spatial scale is itself spatially variable on that scale.<br />

This means that a hydrodynamic model of a reef will necessarily include spatially varying<br />

smaller-scale roughness. This paper considers one feature of this phenomenon which is the<br />

change in roughness length, or frictional drag coefficient, encountered between distinct<br />

topographic zones of a reef such as the fore-reef, reef-flat and back-reef. The analysis is based<br />

on frictional Reynolds numbers for the individual zones of the reef which are combined into a<br />

‘reef Reynolds number’ which is a measure the relative magnitudes of large scale and small<br />

scale roughness. The paper examines the implications of the larger scale variability of<br />

roughness on the connectivity between the zones of a reef as provided by the transport of<br />

materials and turbulence.<br />

128

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