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DRIFT Travel Magazine Fall 2021

Travel to the beautiful Caribbean islands of Antigua and Barbuda, explore some amazing wine museums from around the work and trek across the Chilean glassier. All this and more in the pages of DRIFT Travel Magazine, no passport required.

Travel to the beautiful Caribbean islands of Antigua and Barbuda, explore some amazing wine museums from around the work and trek across the Chilean glassier. All this and more in the pages of DRIFT Travel Magazine, no passport required.

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL<br />

TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />

WINE MUSEUMS OF THE WORLD<br />

SPIRITED HISTORY ACROSS SEVEN COUNTRIES<br />

ANTIGUA + BARBUDA<br />

A DEEP BLUE TALE OF TWO CARIBBEAN ISLANDS<br />

A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY<br />

DISCOVER THE PEOPLE AND PLACES OF PERU<br />

PRIMEVAL GLACIERS IN CHILE<br />

10 DAYS IN TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK<br />

FALL <strong>2021</strong><br />

COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY at <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


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2 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Discover the unsearchable<br />

Discover the forest<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 1


PUBLISHER<br />

GLOSSY MEDIA<br />

CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />

STEVE DRAKE<br />

PRODUCTION/EDITORIAL<br />

JOCELYN BLACK, ALBA CACCAVALE,<br />

JUNE DAGNALL, MONISHA GOHIL,<br />

ANDREW MARSHALL, KAITLIN NARCISO,<br />

KIRA KANANI SEAMON, MICHAEL TREMBLAY<br />

CREATIVE | PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

STEVE DRAKE, JEAN FRANÇOIS GUGGENHEIM,<br />

ANDREW MARSHALL, KAITLIN NARCISO,<br />

KIRA KANANI SEAMON, TOM WHEATLEY,<br />

ELEANOR YE, ANTIGUA & BARBUDA TOURISM<br />

AUTHORITY,TOURISM IRELAND, ADOBE STOCK<br />

ADVERTISING & PUBLISHING RIGHTS INQUIRIES<br />

sales@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com | <strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />

Published by: Glossy Media<br />

All rights reserved. No part of <strong>DRIFT</strong> magazine may be<br />

copied or reproduced without permission.<br />

© COPYRIGHT <strong>DRIFT</strong> TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />

GLOSSY MEDIA<br />

2015-<strong>2021</strong>


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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 3


06 cover story<br />

Wine Museums of the World<br />

BY MONISHA GOHIL<br />

A true story for those that love wine<br />

and are craving travel. From ultra<br />

contemporary to historical reverence,<br />

come with us to seven of the world’s<br />

best wine museums.<br />

10<br />

46<br />

22<br />

columns<br />

18 <strong>Travel</strong> Gear<br />

44 Hotel Spotlight<br />

64 #WhereToNext<br />

56<br />

4 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


10 Antigua & Barbuda<br />

BY MICHAEL TREMBLAY<br />

A Caribbean tale of two islands<br />

told from a local perspective.<br />

22 Chasing Glaciers in Chile<br />

BY ANDREW MARSHALL<br />

A 10-day trek across Torres del<br />

Paine National Park.<br />

28 A Photographic Journey<br />

BY KIRA KANANI SEAMON<br />

A unique look at the people and<br />

places of Peru.<br />

46 Northern Ireland<br />

BY JOCELYN BLACK<br />

Exploring Belfast and beyond with<br />

the help of a paddle.<br />

50 British Columbia<br />

BY KAITLIN NARCISO<br />

The surf, sand, sea and landscapes<br />

of Canada’s wild west coast.<br />

56 Siringit Safari Camp<br />

BY JUNE DAGNALL<br />

This luxury mobile camp embraces the roots of<br />

safari in renowned Serengeti National Park.<br />

6o Underwater Art<br />

BY ALBA CACCAVALE<br />

An artist reimagnes art that embodies<br />

water, the human form and adventure.<br />

Contents<br />

28 60<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 5


Seven Wine Museums<br />

for the traveling wine enthusiast<br />

BY: MONISHA GOHIL<br />

As our long awaited travel plans cautiously begin to formulate, a definite travel bucket<br />

item to embrace are visits to fascinating wine museums. These museums are found all<br />

around the world, some with state of the art facilities, while others are abundant with<br />

charm; however all have magnificent stories and histories.<br />

6 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


La Cite du Vin<br />

Bordeaux, France<br />

Opened in 2016, La Cite du Vin is<br />

a prominent building designed to<br />

mimic both the swirl of wine in a<br />

glass and the curves of the nearby<br />

Garonne River. Within its ten floors,<br />

you will find interactive maps, stateof-the-art<br />

exhibition technology,<br />

tasting rooms and an assortment of<br />

restaurants, including Restaurant Le<br />

7, which offers outstanding panoramic<br />

views of Bordeaux.<br />

WiMu: The Wine Museum<br />

Barolo, Italy<br />

Located inside a castle with a rich<br />

1000 year old history, WiMu gives<br />

visitors a complete journey through<br />

the wines of Barolo. Start your<br />

expedition on the panoramic terrace<br />

with an exploration of the wine in<br />

history, myth and tradition, and descend<br />

to the cellar, where the region’s<br />

first Nebbiolo wines were made in<br />

the 19th century. Here you will see<br />

bottles and labels from all the towns<br />

that produce Barolo, as well as the<br />

opportunity to take some home with<br />

you.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 7


Vivanco Museum<br />

Rioja, Spain<br />

With 4,000 square meters of<br />

exhibition space, the Vivanco<br />

Museum dedicates its six large<br />

rooms to the fascinating relationship<br />

between man and wine over 8,000<br />

years. There are century’s old<br />

vessels and farming tools alongside<br />

great works of art and audio visual<br />

features. Outside you will discover<br />

the museum’s crowning glory which<br />

is the Garden of Bacchus, home to<br />

a vineyard featuring more than 220<br />

grape varieties from around the<br />

world.<br />

Port Wine Museum<br />

Porto, Portugal<br />

Dating back to the 17th century and<br />

located in the Cais Novo Warehouse<br />

is the Port Wine Museum which<br />

showcases the history of the Port<br />

wine industry and the impact its<br />

trade had on the development of<br />

Porto. You will find antiques, fine<br />

and rare bottles, enchanting stories<br />

of wine producers and plenty of<br />

opportunities for tastings.<br />

Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum<br />

Santorini, Greece<br />

The Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum<br />

is nestled in a cave 26 feet down.<br />

It is Greece’s only wine museum, and<br />

offers an in-depth look at the ancient<br />

history of Santorini’s wine industry.<br />

Explore rare wine artifacts, cultural<br />

items and innovations, and then<br />

visit the adjacent family winery for<br />

demonstrations and tastings.<br />

8 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Pleven Wine Museum,<br />

Pleven, Bulgaria<br />

Founded in 2008 and hidden within<br />

in a cave in Kaylaka Park, the Pleven<br />

Wine Museum is home to the<br />

country’s first vocational viniculture<br />

school, which opened in 1890, and<br />

showcases everything Bulgarian wine<br />

has to offer. Visitors can learn about<br />

the history of Bulgarian wine, as well<br />

as where it stands today. Its cellars<br />

are home to more than 7,000 bottles<br />

from all of Bulgaria’s wine producing<br />

regions, many of which are available<br />

for tastings.<br />

1881 Museum<br />

Napa, California<br />

The 1881 Museum in California’s<br />

Napa Valley features possibly the<br />

most comprehensive exhibition<br />

of the valley’s early winemaking<br />

history. Visitors can learn the stories<br />

of Napa’s early pioneers, explore<br />

winemaking relics and immerse<br />

themselves in fascinating documents<br />

from the California Wine Trade<br />

Archive. There are more than 50<br />

wines by the glass available for<br />

tastings which can be enjoyed in<br />

the property’s 150 year old Victoria<br />

house.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 9


A Tale of Two Islands<br />

BY: MICHAEL TREMBLAY<br />

Even before we embarked on a tropical odyssey to Antigua and Barbuda, our<br />

considerable excitement was tempered by a touch of unfamiliarity. While we<br />

knew we could expect the warm sun, soft sands, and azure waters typical of every<br />

Caribbean haven, coming to terms with the true identity of the destination would<br />

have to come from our adventures on Antigua, the larger and more developed of<br />

the two islands, and our forays to Barbuda, its wilder, sparsely inhabited neighbor.<br />

What we found in Antigua and Barbuda was not one exceptional island, but two:<br />

each distinct in character but so alike in their magnetic charm and breadth of<br />

profoundly memorable experiences. At once both rustic and lavish, adventurous<br />

and tranquil, the eclectic range of the attractions, accommodations, and excursions<br />

available in Antigua and Barbuda stands out as this perfect pair’s greatest virtue.<br />

Offering something for travelers of all ages and inclinations, Antigua and Barbuda<br />

is a dynamic paradise with a novel allure that defies our endeavors to summarize<br />

and chronicle it, despite our best efforts to do so for you below.<br />

10 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Lessons From The Locals<br />

From the moment we arrived at Antigua's V.C. Bird International Airport, we were overwhelmed by the reception<br />

we received from the locals. Even beyond the taxi drivers and hotel staff, it seemed as if there was always a smiling<br />

face willing to guide us to our next stop or recommend an entirely new one. The genuine quality of our welcome<br />

speaks greatly to the pride the locals have for their idyllic home and to their resilience and optimism in the wake of<br />

economic challenges presented by the COVID-19 pandemic.<br />

It was from these organic interactions with the enthusiastic inhabitants of Antigua’s colorful capital of St. John’s<br />

that we gained an understanding and an appreciation for the country’s history. Antigua, the “older brother”, is a<br />

former British colony and sugar plantation of some 90,000 people originally inhabited by the indigenous Arawaks,<br />

bestowed its modern name by Christopher Columbus in the late 1400s. Antigua’s stunning coastline is rimmed<br />

with coral reefs brimming with endangered sea turtles and parrotfish; its tropical headlands punctuated by<br />

volcanic rock formations, breezy cliffside villages, and the (relative) cosmopolitan bustle of scenic St. John’s.<br />

Barbuda, the “younger sister” lies 40 km north of Antigua, its population of fewer than 2,000 mostly cloistered<br />

around the village of Codrington, a colonial residential center over three centuries old established on a lagoon.<br />

Unspoiled by modern development, Barbuda’s highlands feature coastal caves and compelling cliff-faces, its famous<br />

lagoon serving as the region’s largest colony of the beautiful and well-named Magnificent Frigatebird. Barbuda<br />

is regularly accessible by ferry boat or water taxi from Antigua, with local flights between the two islands also<br />

available. Expect a trip of roughly one and a half hours, if you opt to sail the cerulean waves.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 11


In the Lap of Luxury<br />

That Antigua and Barbuda’s fascinating history is less-known even to frequent visitors of the region is a shame, but<br />

also perhaps reflective of the overshadowing effect of the islands’ reputation for excellence in accommodations. As<br />

we traveled the breadth of Antigua, it seemed as if each perfect, white sand beach we passed was host to its own<br />

collection of oceanfront cabanas or overlooked by a smattering of hilltop hideaways. Larger resorts like Hermitage<br />

Bay, COCOs, and the Royalton constitute Antigua’s compelling portfolio of all-inclusive properties, impressing<br />

with prime beach access, extensive spa and dining amenities, and the impeccable blending of an authentic<br />

Caribbean design aesthetic with the latest in modern luxuries.<br />

For our part, we were hosted by the breathtaking Jumby Bay, a 300-acre private retreat on Long Island, two miles<br />

off the coast of Antigua proper. Swaying palm trees ushered us into the private world of Jumby Bay from the very<br />

first moment we stepped foot on the quaint wooden dock. A tour of the expansive grounds revealed the property’s<br />

full splendor: multiple infinity pools and restaurants, a massive fitness center and spa, and the pristine ivory<br />

beaches at Pasture Bay, ready to accommodate seekers of suntans and aquatic adventures alike. The striking White<br />

Egret we spied en-route to our lodgings was an arresting sight trumped only by the tasteful sophistication and<br />

elegant nautical stylings of our beach side suite, complete with plush white linens, a personal soaking tub, and an<br />

outdoor garden.<br />

We can only assume that the bliss we experienced at Jumby Bay can be matched during a stay at any of the other<br />

luxury resorts, boutique or otherwise, on the islands. Even Barbuda, in its wild and natural glory, can assert a claim<br />

to superlative pockets of luxury with properties like its Barbuda Belle: an incredibly exclusive getaway comprising<br />

six charming wooden bungalows within the sandy heart of Codrington Lagoon Park. Accessible only by boat, the<br />

Belle is a favorite of travelers who crave privacy without compromising on comfort, as well as proximity to the<br />

reptiles, birds, sea turtles, and lobsters who make Barbuda their home.<br />

12 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Dining on the Dunes<br />

There is a staggering amount of gourmet dining options in Antigua and Barbuda, spoiling even the most frivolous<br />

foodie for choice. When we searched for the classic tropical fare that typifies Caribbean cuisine, we found it:<br />

delicious Johnnycakes, seafood chowder, fish cakes, and grilled spiny lobster, served up fresh and aromatic and<br />

brought directly to our beach loungers. There’s nothing quite like enjoying fresh seafood in direct proximity to<br />

its source, a local liquid favorite like English Harbour rum or Wadadli in hand, as you gaze contentedly into the<br />

endless blue.<br />

Rather recently, the gastronomy of Antigua and Barbuda has embraced a trend of incorporating global flavors.<br />

With historical influence from the British, French, Spanish, and indigenous Carib, it is perhaps natural that<br />

its cuisine would move to reflect its diverse origins. The aptly named Sheer Rocks, which sits atop a cliff at the<br />

Cocobay resort, is one of the restaurants leading this tantalizing renaissance. Led by award-winning Chef-de-<br />

Cuisine Simon Christey-French, Sheer Rocks serves up a locally sourced Mediterranean-style tasting menu<br />

complete with lamb shank, beetroot tartare, and seared yellowfin tuna. The Foie Gras Parfait was velvety and<br />

savory, melting on the tongue while stimulating the taste buds with spicy notes from the mustard seed.<br />

Elsewhere in Antigua, you’ll find palate-pleasing gourmet offerings at most of the restaurants that adjoin the major<br />

resorts. Carmichael’s at Sugar Ridge deserves special mention, boasting a ‘lavish cabana’ aesthetic and situated<br />

at the highest point of the resort, providing sweeping views of the hills and sea. Signature dishes like the Lobster<br />

medallions and bouillabaisse are cooked to perfection with herbs and spices that reflect Carib cooking traditions.<br />

If you’re famished from a day of fun on Barbuda, seek out Nobu, the Peruvian-Japanese sushi fusion restaurant<br />

realized through a partnership by Robert De Niro and Chef Nobuyuki Masuhisa. This internationally acclaimed<br />

eatery specializing in seafood is a natural fit for Barbuda, which boasts incredible seafood of its own, and elevates<br />

the dining experience even higher by consequence of its location on one of the island’s white powder beaches.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 13


What to see, what to do, and where to do... nothing<br />

While our time in Antigua and Barbuda has led us to conclude that it is a destination whose virtues must be<br />

experienced rather than relayed, we’ve shared a few of our highlights below, dividing them by island to make sure each<br />

receives their deserved due.<br />

14 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Antigua<br />

Curious guests with an appreciation for history will want to first take time to embark on a walking tour of<br />

St. Johns, and then make a beeline for Nelson’s Dockyard. Named after Royal Navy Admiral Horatio Nelson,<br />

this UNESCO-recognized world heritage site has a storied history dating back to the 18th century. The hills<br />

surrounding this painstakingly restored site are full of pleasant hiking trails that wind around venerable colonial<br />

forts. The nearby lookout of Shirley Heights may be the best place to catch the sunrise (or sunset) on the island,<br />

stunning us with its sweeping, panoramic vantage over English Harbour. Devil’s Bridge National Park, just beyond<br />

the village of Willikies, is our pick for the most awe-inspiring natural site on Antigua, so-named for its limestone<br />

sea bridge carved over millions of years by geysers and blowholes.<br />

Standard Caribbean fare like cruising, kayaking, and duty-free shopping aside (all of which we heartily<br />

recommend, of course), Stingray City was the breakaway excursion of our trip. <strong>Travel</strong>ing to the warm shallows of<br />

Seatons Village, we were ushered into the water with snorkel gear and encouraged to touch, feed, and swim with<br />

incredibly majestic stingrays. Our team was collectively astonished at the intrepid and friendly nature of these<br />

animals, who actively sought to interact with the humans visiting their colorful reef home. The fun didn’t end<br />

when we returned to dry land: we opted to book a combination tour and got up close with vivid parrots, giant<br />

(truly, giant!) tortoises, as well as a host of aquatic creatures on a mangrove snorkeling tour.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 15


Barbuda<br />

You can’t leave Barbuda without marveling at the Frigatebirds. The darlings of both ornithologists and more casual<br />

birdwatchers like ourselves, these sizable seabirds made an indelible impression with their inflatable crimson<br />

throat sacs. Perched on small sand rises, the males provided an intense visual contrast to the brackish waters of the<br />

lagoon, their mating coalescing into a frenzied, yet captivating orchestra of a thousand red balloons. Watching the<br />

lagoon’s inhabitants click, dance, and ‘drum’ (as our guide called it) their way through the ritual of mating was a<br />

spectacular natural drama that must be seen and heard to be believed.<br />

For something a little quieter but no less stimulating, we recommend a trip to the cliffside caves of Two Foot Bay<br />

National Park. While each cave here has an interesting story to tell, make Indian Cave your priority: as the only<br />

known cave on Barbuda with genuine Arawak petroglyphs, it’s one of the best ways to connect with the original<br />

inhabitants of the island on a visceral and visual level.<br />

Snorkel, dive, swim and sail, and hike. Barbuda is a natural wonderland that should be explored in all its<br />

forms through whichever physical manner you favor. That being said, we can’t in good faith publish a list of<br />

recommended Caribbean excursions without including horseback riding on the beach. Luckily, Barbuda excels in<br />

this regard as well: the luxe Lighthouse Bay Boutique Resort captured our hearts as on a cross-island gallop across<br />

the island’s beaches and through its shallows. Our spirited yet friendly steeds seemed to bear us with enthusiasm,<br />

making light work of Barbuda’s varied terrain and fearlessly wading into gentle, warm waters up to our waists. For<br />

making us feel like the cover models of our own romance novel, horseback riding comes highly recommended.<br />

A parting recommendation: as any veteran vacationer to the Caribbean would likely affirm, sometimes time spent<br />

on vacation is best spent doing nothing at all. The laid-back tempo of life in the region offers a much-needed<br />

escape from hectic schedules and urban staccato. With “a beach for every day of the year”, as the tagline goes, we<br />

recommend searching for a beach that best suits your personalized need for tranquil nothingness. For our money,<br />

the best beach to lose track of time and space on in Antigua is Rendezvous Bay, which is accessible only by off-road<br />

4x4 and bordered by a nature preserve, allowing you to reconnect with the primal beauty of nature. On the quieter<br />

Barbuda, just about any beach will provide the perfect venue for letting the gentle waves lap at your heels, but of<br />

particular note is Princess Diana Beach, a crescent-shaped slice of divine pink sand that we fell in love with as a<br />

tanning and snorkeling venue.<br />

We came to Antigua and Barbuda as neophytes,<br />

and left as evangelists: bringing the warm glow of<br />

the Caribbean back with us to our cubicles.<br />

16 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


To learn more about Antigua and Barbuda and plan your own journey to the perfect pair,<br />

visit visitantiguabarbuda.com<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 17


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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 19


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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 21


Torres del Paine National Park<br />

CHILE<br />

A10-day trek across primeval glaciers<br />

22 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


BY ANDREW MARSHALL<br />

High on the thermals the condor<br />

rides, etched black against an<br />

endless blue sky. With a wingspan of<br />

over two meters, its flight is one of<br />

effortless grace, eyes cast downward<br />

in an eternal search for carrion.<br />

The world below is one of harsh<br />

beauty. Jagged shards of solid rock<br />

thrust skywards by monumental<br />

forces forming a chain of snowcapped<br />

mountains. On the peaks,<br />

blizzards can occur at any time of<br />

the year, giving birth to glaciers;<br />

mammoth rivers of ice that scour<br />

deep valleys on their descent before<br />

calving giant icebergs into the<br />

numerous aquamarine lakes.<br />

At roughly 51 degrees south, Parque<br />

Nacional Torres del Paine (Torres<br />

del Paine National Park) is situated<br />

at the south-eastern end of the Hielo<br />

Sur, Patagonia’s massive southern<br />

continental icecap, which has, with<br />

the hand of thousands of years,<br />

landscaped this incredible region of<br />

southern Chile.<br />

For the condor we must have been<br />

easy targets to spot. In one powerful<br />

dive he sweeps down over our heads<br />

- two hikers alone in an immense<br />

wilderness, backpacks loaded with<br />

ten days’ worth of food and all the<br />

paraphernalia needed to hike the<br />

100-kilometer ‘Circuit Trail’ of the<br />

Torres del Paine National Park.<br />

Walking the Circuit Trail anticlockwise<br />

is definitely the way to go.<br />

In this direction the days unfold,<br />

each better than the previous one.<br />

Every scenic highlight is literally<br />

thrown at the walker at the turn of a<br />

corner, or the cresting of a ridge, and<br />

always without warning.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 23


Lake Dickson is the first big event.<br />

Leaving the boggy channels of Paine<br />

River on our second day, we climb a<br />

ridge. Pow! A view so perfect we are<br />

gasping with pleasure and surprise.<br />

Ahead, a glacier sparkles in the<br />

late afternoon light like a million<br />

candles. At its foot lies Lake Dickson<br />

and floating in this sky-blue sea of<br />

tranquil reflection among the mobile<br />

icebergs is a peninsula of grass and<br />

woodland, and our first Refugio<br />

(mountain refuge hut).<br />

Most of the refuge huts in the<br />

national park are run as going<br />

concerns in the summer months. A<br />

bed, hot showers and the use of the<br />

kitchen are all part of the package<br />

and sometimes there are meals<br />

available. Camping comes with<br />

outside toilets and cold showers.<br />

Some refugios however are simple<br />

huts that double as living quarters<br />

of shepherds living on the remote<br />

pastures of bordering estancias and<br />

offer only camping and cold showers.<br />

Day three and we climb at last into<br />

the mountains that we had been<br />

skirting until now, via ‘the valley of<br />

dogs’ through an impressive stand of<br />

Magellanic forest. Suddenly a strange<br />

‘whoosh’ sweeps through the trees.<br />

“What was that?” my partner Leanne<br />

exclaims leaping backwards. We both<br />

glance nervously about as though<br />

expecting an avalanche to come<br />

crashing through the trees. Crash!<br />

and even the ground seems to shake<br />

beneath our feet.<br />

Hurrying forward, we leave the forest<br />

and climb the morass of boulders<br />

that signify a glacier had once been<br />

this way and discover the answer.<br />

Glacier de los Perros had just calved<br />

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a mammoth chunk of ice into an icy<br />

lake below. With beating hearts, we<br />

watch as, yet another great sliver of<br />

ice liberates itself to plunge into the<br />

frigid water. Grinning from ear to<br />

ear we feel incredibly privileged to be<br />

witnessing this awesome spectacle.<br />

“Oh no, I’ve lost a boot!” cries an<br />

Israeli girl ahead. It is day four, the<br />

toughest on the circuit with the<br />

ascent of the highest point of the<br />

walk ahead - ‘el paso de los perros’.<br />

We have caught up with another<br />

group of hikers and making slow<br />

progress, bogged down in a sea of<br />

knee-deep mud entwined in an ankle<br />

breaking mire of tree roots at the tree<br />

line.<br />

Finally, we leave the boot-sucking<br />

bogs behind and begin the ascent,<br />

the path winding tortuously over<br />

the rock-strewn moraine of another<br />

glacier. At last, the glaciated peaks of<br />

the opposing range appear above our<br />

rocky horizon. Another ten minutes<br />

of renewed hope and panting and we<br />

reach the pass.<br />

There is really no way to describe<br />

the effects of such a view as Glacier<br />

Grey seen from the pass. It enters<br />

one horizon and leaves on the other,<br />

filling everything in between with<br />

deep blue ravines and white crests,<br />

great frozen waves that fan out like<br />

the ripples on a sand dune, capturing<br />

all the shades of aqua trapped<br />

within their frozen world. We stand;<br />

shivering as the icy wind whips our<br />

breath away, silent, shocked and<br />

moved in some terrible way.<br />

That night we lie shivering in our<br />

four seasons down sleeping bags at<br />

Campamiento los Perros. Alongside,<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 25


arely 100 meters or so is an<br />

immense river of ice. Sleeplessly I<br />

imagine I can hear it creaking, then<br />

in a moment of worry that my nose<br />

will freeze should I fall asleep, I<br />

hunker down into the claustrophobic<br />

confines of my bag and will myself to<br />

sleep.<br />

At Refugio Grey, situated at the foot<br />

of the glacier, walking tours on the<br />

ice, beds and hot showers, food and<br />

“no sorry, campers have cold water,<br />

and you may not light fires and<br />

yes we do sell meals” seems all too<br />

commercial after the wilderness we’d<br />

just left behind.<br />

We decide to push on, making the 27<br />

kilometer day walk to Lake Pehoe,<br />

Glacier Frances and on to the refugio<br />

on Lake Nordenskjold. Two days<br />

in one, but our glorious weather<br />

is looking doubtful as ominous<br />

clouds roll in, and we still have the<br />

Torres del Paine (towers of Paine)<br />

to see and clouds would spell a big<br />

disappointment.<br />

Most people usually make the day’s<br />

climb to view the towers on their first<br />

day out. If the weather is fine (which<br />

is rare up there) you’d be crazy not<br />

to. Ok, so we were crazy, we left it till<br />

last and now here we are almost at<br />

the end of our trek, gazing through<br />

the panoramic windows of Refugio<br />

Chile, trying to catch glimpses of the<br />

famous peaks through swirling mists<br />

that creep with icy fingers around<br />

the mountain’s flank obscuring<br />

everything.<br />

The pitter-patter of rain on the<br />

tent fly is my first indication of the<br />

weather the next morning. There’s<br />

a sinking sensation going on in my<br />

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stomach as I scramble outside to<br />

view the damp mist steeling about<br />

the campground trees. I am hard<br />

pressed to see the refugio only 30<br />

meters away.<br />

The refugio cook is less than<br />

optimistic. “Not today,” he says<br />

eyeing the weather. But even so, we<br />

wait before giving the ‘OK’ to radio<br />

ahead and book our bus seat out of<br />

the park. I had resigned myself to<br />

missing ‘the towers’, had convinced<br />

myself that it isn’t always best to have<br />

a perfect ending when suddenly a<br />

fellow trekker Siegfried exclaims,<br />

“Hey wow, check out all that blue<br />

sky, I think it will clear!”<br />

We are all on the track within<br />

half an hour. The chance of seeing<br />

anything is still up for debate but I<br />

feel better for trying. “One hour, no<br />

five minutes, hell - even just a few<br />

moments,” I implore the clouds as we<br />

begin to climb.<br />

You’ve got to wonder if there’s some<br />

omnipotent power that ordains<br />

‘yes’ or ‘no’. For just as we reach the<br />

lookout, the sun breaks out through<br />

the clouds behind us, sending<br />

ribbons of light and shade racing<br />

across the ice strewn lake below,<br />

across the water-streaked cliffs above<br />

and there they are, the majestic<br />

peaks of Torres del Paine…<br />

There was hardly a moment to spare<br />

in wonder before the need to capture<br />

their beauty on film was paramount.<br />

Four shots and already the clouds<br />

begin to close in, are once again<br />

drawing the curtains on my few<br />

short moments, on the unforgettable<br />

highlight of Torres del Paine<br />

National Park.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 27


Machu Picchu is located in the Sacred Valley and is accessed<br />

by either train or the famous Inca Trail. It is located in a<br />

cloud forest at almost 8,000 ft above sea level.<br />

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PERU<br />

A Photographic Journey<br />

Featured Artist: Kira Kanani Seamon<br />

Instagram: @authorkiraseamon<br />

Website: kiraseamonphotography.com<br />

Gear: iPad<br />

Kira Kanani Seamon is an award-winning photographer<br />

from Boston. She has had over fifty newspaper cover stories<br />

about her art and celebrated her debut solo museum exhibit<br />

recently. A national and two-time regional dance champ, she<br />

appeared in Dance Teacher and Dance Spirit <strong>Magazine</strong> as<br />

an editors’ choice for winning contests. She is a gold medal/<br />

state winner in piano performance, a fourteen-time grant<br />

recipient from cultural councils and was the inaugural artistin-residence<br />

in Natick, Massachusetts. All of this culminated<br />

in her receiving the prestigious Albert Nelson Marquis<br />

Lifetime Achievement Award, for which she appeared in the<br />

Wall Street Journal in 2020.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 29


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Explorer Hiram Bingham III led a joint expedition with the Peruvian government, Yale<br />

University and National Geographic in 1911 and made this ancient site known to the<br />

world again. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.<br />

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Moss and lichen find comfortable homes on all the walls of the Citadel. These<br />

ancient ruins have seen innumerable rainstorms over the centuries and they also<br />

endure through a lengthy rainy season that spans from December to April.<br />

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Imposing stone structures on Machu Picchu. A thunderstorm is close by and will<br />

last three hours with dramatic sonic booms of thunder and frequent lightning.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 33


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The clouds rush up the side of Machu Picchu mountain enveloping everything<br />

in their midst. The Inca were renowned for their advances in agriculture. One<br />

of their most significant achievements was terrace farming.<br />

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Catacombs far beneath the Monastery of San Francisco in Lima. This is a historic<br />

cemetery which served to bury 25,000 people.<br />

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This stunning design features many faces and flower images. Some spanning<br />

the length of an entire building.<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 39


26) Two ladies in traditional dress with a cuddly alpaca on the<br />

famous Inca Trail which leads directly from here in downtown Cuzco<br />

to the famous Machu Picchu Citadel ruins in the Sacred Valley.<br />

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After a long day of sightseeing and wandering, a hearty greeting by<br />

the hotel doorman becomes a highlight of the day in itself in Cuzco.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 41


Flair and fun are the orders of the day in Urubamba on this family-owned farm.<br />

The Marinera dance is a treat for visitors as they get ready to savor a farm-to-table<br />

traditionally prepared meal.<br />

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While it is fun to visit an alpaca farm in Peru, nothing beats seeing a small herd<br />

wandering around ancient ruins. This one is meandering around Sacsayhuaman<br />

in Cuzco, which was an important military base for the Inca Empire.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 43


potlight<br />

Fairmont Taghazout<br />

Bay, Morocco<br />

A luxury five-star wellness resort nestled at the heart of Taghazout<br />

Bay with exceptional leisure facilities, invites you to sit back and<br />

enjoy every moment in an idyllic piece of heaven. We offer a<br />

seductive blend of style and serenity, with a range of gourmet<br />

restaurants and bars, a rejuvenating Fairmont Spa, a fitness<br />

center, a kids club and a teens club, along with choices of rooms,<br />

suites and villas all with an ocean view.<br />

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Fairmont Taghazout Bay offers 146 rooms, suites and<br />

villas with ocean views. A large selection of Deluxe<br />

and Fairmont Gold rooms and suites, in addition<br />

to four signature villas are available for memorable<br />

stays.<br />

Spa and wellness - Discover this wellness destination<br />

and indulge in a rejuvenating experience inspired by<br />

local tradition. Fairmont Spa promotes a healthier<br />

lifestyle through self-discovery and inner balance<br />

and offers a range of health benefits with its tailormade<br />

treatments.<br />

Golf - Taghazout is being praised as a first class golf<br />

destination, welcoming golfers to the unique 18- hole<br />

and 9-hole golf courses designed by world specialist<br />

Kyle Phillips spread over a 30 hectares ground.<br />

Dining - From seasonally inspired menus to dining<br />

experiences that will satisfy any craving, see what our<br />

chefs are preparing just for you.<br />

fairmont.com/taghazout<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 45


Exploring Northern<br />

Ireland by Paddle<br />

For paddlers of all descriptions, the coastline, lakes and rivers of<br />

Northern Ireland provide the ultimate in fun and excitement, or<br />

the best in peace and tranquility.<br />

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Flat-water kayaking, sea kayaking, river kayaking, white-water kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding<br />

and canoing are all easily at the paddler’s command in Northern Ireland.<br />

Everywhere you go, you’ll discover boatyards, marinas, jetties and a wealth of hire operators and<br />

tour specialists full of local pride and the giant spirit of Northern Ireland – all ready and willing to<br />

help you heighten the experience of taking to the water.<br />

The twisting Northern Ireland coastline, full of wide bays, secluded beaches, towering cliffs and a<br />

rich variety of habitats, is absolutely ideal sea kayaking territory, with County Down’s Strangford<br />

Lough high up on the must-try list.<br />

The largest sea inlet in Britain or Ireland, is an outdoor adventurer’s dream. It’s dotted with<br />

countless coves, harbors, quays and piers, and more than 70 islands. Discreet wild camping is<br />

allowed on some of the islands, so if you’re into a spot of kayak camping then you’ll love it here.<br />

Go it alone, or try the Strangford Lough Activity Center, which offers kayak and canoe hire,<br />

tuition and a range of cool tours.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 47


With world-famous sights such as the Giant’s Causeway and the Old Bushmills Distillery, the<br />

Causeway Coast is another sea kayaking hot spot. Get the most out of your paddle with the likes<br />

of Causeway Coast Kayaking Tours, who can guide you on kayak and food tours, moonlight<br />

kayaking, trips to the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and more.<br />

If you prefer freshwater to saltwater a good idea would be to slip into Lough Erne and the peaceful<br />

lakelands of County Fermanagh. These vast lakes and network of waterways are perfect for<br />

tranquil kayaking and canoing and there are numerous places to hire from. Try the Water Activity<br />

Zone in Enniskillen or Castle Archdale Marina, which offers sit-on-top kayaks and Canadian<br />

canoes that are great fun for everyone.<br />

Once you have paddled a while you will find it easy to moor up and enjoy a picnic or a lakeside<br />

meal in one of the many pubs, restaurants, cafés and hotels that dot the shores of Upper and Lower<br />

Lough Erne.<br />

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Canoe trails also abound in Northern Ireland, with the likes of Lough Neagh, the largest inland<br />

lake in the UK and Ireland, the River Bann and the River Blackwater all offering peaceful escapes,<br />

diverse wildlife and historical sites to explore.<br />

City-based experiences on the water include a two-hour stand-up paddle-board trip on the River<br />

Foyle, which flows through Derry~Londonderry. Far and Wild can provide all the gear and take<br />

you on a relaxing exploration that lets you see the famous Walled City from a whole new angle<br />

In Belfast you can take a kayak trip around the harbour and the River Lagan quays. Bryson<br />

Lagansports will provide a waterborne perspective on how the city has changed since the Titanic<br />

was launched there in 1911.<br />

For paddlers in search of white-knuckle thrills, head for the Mourne River running through the<br />

Mountains of Mourne. It’s probably the best white-water experience in Northern Ireland.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 49


A British Columbia<br />

Wilderness Adventure<br />

BY: KAITLIN NARCISO<br />

From rocky coastlines to sandy beaches, immense forests to sprawling plains, giant mountains to<br />

inland deserts, and crystal lakes to salty waters, the diverse landscape of British Columbia provides<br />

a pristine ecosystem and vast wilderness perfect for adventure.<br />

The outdoors have always been a kind of home to me—a city girl with a wild heart. When the<br />

opportunity arose to spend an extended period of time in British Columbia, I immediately knew I<br />

was in for the wildest adventure of my life.<br />

After months of exploring and getting lost, I’m sharing my favorite wilderness experiences in<br />

Canada’s backyard.<br />

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Camper Van Camping<br />

Camp Junkie provided the wheels, Adrienne provided the tunes, and I provided<br />

the navigation—which explains why one wrong turn led to another, which ended<br />

up leading to many fun, unplanned adventures.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ing in Betsy, our Camp Junkie camper van, was a wild ride—and honestly,<br />

a highlight in my life. There’s a certain romanticism to an old school refurbished<br />

Volkswagen Westfalia. Manual steering with automatic transmission. Retro<br />

interior with life luxuries like a stove and water. It’s the perfect camping setup.<br />

Getting acquainted with Betsy as we drove up to our first location in the Garibaldi<br />

Highlands was exhilarating. Let me tell you, 10 point turns with manual steering<br />

will keep you on your toes. Though, once we arrived at our destination for the<br />

night, it was all worth it.<br />

Overlooking the beautiful mountain scape, we popped up our tent roof, made<br />

a beautiful fire, cooked a pesto pasta dinner, and cracked open a Backcountry<br />

Brewing beer as the sun set.<br />

With the crickets chirping, the bushes rustling with wildlife, and the fire burning<br />

a beautiful ember glow, it was an idyllic night spent in the Squamish wilderness.<br />

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White Water Rafting<br />

I grew up swimming in small rapids in the Kawarthas and hiking to waterfalls on<br />

nearly every vacation. There’s something about rushing water that feels so empowering<br />

and mesmerizing.<br />

Nestled away in Squamish, the Elaho River—surrounded by a backdrop of<br />

beautiful mountains, lush greenery, and rocky shores—is the source of one of my<br />

favorite wilderness experiences: white water rafting.<br />

Led by Canadian Outback Rafting Company, this adrenaline filled excursion is<br />

the perfect balance of exhilarating fun and wild adventure.<br />

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As Marlie and I get situated, wetsuit, life jacket, and helmet all on and fastened,<br />

Graham—the rafting company’s owner and our guide for the day—walks us<br />

through the different rafting strokes. He instructs us on how to hold the paddle<br />

and brace for impact, leading us through several trials of the different safety<br />

maneuvers. Though his notes are filled with warnings and what if scenarios, his<br />

sturdy and confident tone is hallmarked by his experience.<br />

On the river, the rapids push and pull us through, guiding us through massive<br />

waves that splash into the boat. We paddle hard, brace for impact, then paddle<br />

again—all on the command of our expert guide.<br />

We’re drenched. Our smiles stretched from ear to ear the entire time.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 53


Hiking<br />

It’s no secret that British Columbia is equipped with stellar views at some of the<br />

most breathtaking summits in Canada. Breathtaking is the word of choice because<br />

quite literally, getting to these summits will take your breath away. They’re a trek<br />

and a half to get to, venturing through some grueling conditions, but that view at<br />

the top is not one you’ll want to miss.<br />

Half the fun of hiking is the journey to the destination, so don’t forget to enjoy the<br />

equally awe-inspiring views along the way—whether waterfalls, grassy plains, or<br />

dense forest.<br />

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Surfing<br />

Waves I feel come hand in hand with rushing water—so it’s no surprise that<br />

catching a wave in Tofino makes the cut for my favorite wilderness experiences in<br />

British Columbia.<br />

Tofino is a surfer’s Disney World. With shallow waves closer to the beach at Cox<br />

Bay and bigger waves as you paddle away from shore, the bay is the perfect place<br />

for both beginners and experienced surfers.<br />

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of catching your first wave; though I should<br />

also note, there’s also nothing quite like getting rumbled and tumbled by massive<br />

waves and learning just how wild the water is! Scary—yes, though also worth it.<br />

If you’re just learning, remember to listen to your instructor, don’t be afraid to fall<br />

down, but also don’t be afraid to get back up and have fun!<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 55


Siringit<br />

Migration<br />

Camp<br />

BY: JUNE DAGNALL<br />

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Countless travelers have a safari is at<br />

the top of their bucket list. Whether<br />

it’s your first game drive or your<br />

tenth, each one is a unique journey;<br />

a true broadening of horizons;<br />

an education for the mind; and a<br />

rejuvenation of the soul.<br />

If your desire to travel has you<br />

dreaming of sighting countless<br />

bird species, herds of elephants, or<br />

thousands of wildebeest and zebra<br />

walking the plains to the river in<br />

search of a safe crossing point, then<br />

a visit to the Siringit Migration<br />

Camp by Mantis is a must. Mantis<br />

combines responsible tourism,<br />

conservation and adventure, which<br />

solidifies the most amazing one of a<br />

kind travel experiences sure to be on<br />

everyone’s bucket list.<br />

The Great Migration has been<br />

described as one of the greatest<br />

shows on earth, and the Serengeti<br />

National Park has the highest<br />

concentration of plains game in<br />

Africa. The Siringit Luxury Mobile<br />

Camp embraces the roots of safari<br />

and travels every few months in<br />

symbiosis with wildlife, to follow the<br />

wildebeest herds, zebra, Thomson<br />

gazelles, and all the other predators<br />

that the Great Migration attracts<br />

inside this renowned National Park.<br />

The best time to travel to the camp<br />

is during the crossing season which<br />

occurs between July and November;<br />

and the calving season which<br />

occurs between January and March.<br />

Wildlife is most active in the golden<br />

hours of the morning as well as in<br />

the evening.<br />

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The Siringit Migration Camp opened<br />

in the Kogatende region (Northern<br />

Serengeti) where it will remain until<br />

November <strong>2021</strong>. The camp will then<br />

move to the Ndutu region (Southern<br />

Serengeti) reopening on December<br />

15, <strong>2021</strong>, where it will continue<br />

until the end of March 2022 when<br />

the herds once again begin their<br />

migration north.<br />

This Bedouin style camp has eight<br />

luxury guest tents, positioned on<br />

raised platforms to provide guests<br />

with unobstructed views across the<br />

Serengeti wilderness. The unique<br />

octagonal shape of the tents are<br />

designed to dissolve the division<br />

between indoors and outdoors<br />

ultimately allowing guests to be<br />

closer to the Serengeti wilderness.<br />

The tents accommodate up to two<br />

guests, however two tents can be<br />

linked together to form a family<br />

tent. All tents contain an ensuite<br />

bathroom. There is a separate dining<br />

tent which serves contemporary<br />

seasonal dishes with an African<br />

twist, and a separate lounge tent<br />

which offers a selection of books and<br />

board games.<br />

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For the ultimate relaxation, Siringit<br />

has partnered with Healing Earth, a<br />

premium African spa brand that uses<br />

organic products made from natural<br />

active ingredients sourced from<br />

the continent’s powerful minerals,<br />

oceans, flowers, herbs, fruit, seeds<br />

and natural oils. There is a selection<br />

of massage therapies offered, all<br />

of which begin with a traditional<br />

African foot cleansing. Children<br />

can partake as well with a “Mini Me<br />

Treatment”.<br />

Mantis is a conservation focused<br />

hotel group and does a stellar job of<br />

using sustainable business practices,<br />

and develops tourism products that<br />

are respectful of the environment<br />

and communities in which they<br />

operate. The Siringit Migration<br />

Camp uses raised platforms for tents,<br />

rather than commonly used ground<br />

mats, and solar power is utilized for<br />

electricity and heating.<br />

As they say in Swahili, “safari njema”<br />

or “have a good trip”. Enjoy this<br />

amazing lifetime experience and<br />

travel with your sense of humor and<br />

passion for adventure.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 59


The Art of<br />

Anna Sweet<br />

BY: ALBA CACCAVALE<br />

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Anna Sweet’s work marries a craftsman’s approach to material with an Art Nouveau influence. Known for her luminous<br />

underwater nudes, Sweet portrays the ethereal through harmonious modes of painting and photography. By employing<br />

radiant minerals and pigments, the artist reimagines familiar elements of nature and the female form, rendering them<br />

brilliantly new to the viewer’s eye.<br />

Revealing the sensuality and elegance of women throughout the most exotic waters of the world. Sweet engages<br />

minerals like mica, diamond dust, and glass on the image, Sweet’s mixed-medium approach offers an otherworldly<br />

experience. Sweet’s work mimics elements of her shooting environments and creates “effects like the glisten that occurs<br />

when the sun kisses the sea.” The photographic images and encased materials coalesce into a stunning, seemingly three<br />

dimensional representation of the subject. The subjects in this series are radiant displays of female beauty.<br />

annasweet.com<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 61


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“ART WASHES AWAY<br />

THE SOUL, THE DUST<br />

OF EVERYDAY LIFE”<br />

- PABLO PICASSO


TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 63


#WHERETONEXT<br />

MOROCCO<br />

Feasting in Fes - A Gastronomic Journey<br />

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