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Summer issue of Adventure Magazine

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LONGBOARDING<br />

the classic art<br />

the concept of surfing across the face<br />

of the wave on a smaller board (still at<br />

least 9-10 ft). Copeland and Stoner also<br />

helped locals to make copies of their<br />

boards, introducing modern surfing and<br />

surfboards to New Zealand. These new<br />

surfing techniques put more emphasis<br />

on the surf conditions, causing surfers<br />

to go in search of better locations and<br />

conditions to hunt for breaking waves<br />

that peeled off rather than crashed<br />

straight to the beach. Basically, this was<br />

the birth of surfing, but it was all still<br />

longboarding<br />

Sure the shortboard era came and<br />

stayed, but in the background,<br />

Longboarding still managed to tick<br />

along. There came a full resurgence in<br />

early 1990 as surfers saw the value and<br />

appeal of the longboard.<br />

The art of Longboarding is timeless, it is<br />

an art. They say that longboard surfing<br />

is a state of mind. An idealized stage of<br />

mindfulness.<br />

In the 1960’s surfing arrived in New<br />

Zealand not surfing as we know it but<br />

Longboarding. A few clubies were playing<br />

with hollow surf skis but not until 1959<br />

did two Americans come in New Zealand<br />

and kicked alive a revolution and a<br />

culture.<br />

However, surfing has always been a part<br />

of Māori culture, the practice was called<br />

whakahekeheke. It was carried out using<br />

a variety of craft, including boards, or<br />

kopapa, and even bags of kelp, but the<br />

Christian missionary ‘killjoys’ put a quick<br />

stop to that.<br />

Surfing came back into focus following<br />

a tour of New Zealand by the Hawai'ian<br />

surfer Duke Kahanamoku in 1915 at Lyall<br />

Bay Surf Life Saving Club, in Wellington.<br />

Where he gave demonstrations to locals<br />

on how to surf and by the 1920s and<br />

1930s, New Zealanders were surfing<br />

using solid wooden boards or hollow<br />

ones mainly for surf lifesaving.<br />

Surfing was utilized in the Surf Lifesaving<br />

movement, which used heavy hollow<br />

longboards to paddle through the surf<br />

and rescue people.<br />

Up until this point, surfing consisted<br />

of riding the wave in a straight line<br />

directly to the beach. In 1958, two<br />

American lifeguards, Bing Copeland<br />

and Rick Stoner, came to stay at Piha<br />

Surf Lifesaving Club and introduced<br />

There are more longboarders in the<br />

world than you might think. Some of them<br />

are not full-time ‘loggers’; they own a<br />

respectable ‘quiver’ of boards, and when<br />

the surf is smaller, and other surfers are<br />

sitting on the beach the longboarders can<br />

enjoy the smaller waves as much as, the<br />

more powerful ones.<br />

The 1990s kicked off the nostalgia<br />

period, and the classic longboard<br />

shapers started getting back to the old<br />

designs. Shapers like Roger Hall from<br />

Surfline in Ruakaka who had never left<br />

his roots in Longboarding began a new<br />

era in longboarding New Zealand and<br />

started to come up with some innovation.<br />

Currently, he is designing board with a<br />

wing keel that does not require a fin!<br />

.<br />

There is less rip and tear on a longboard<br />

than a shortboard, but there is still a<br />

range of moves to be made and refine.<br />

Nose riding, tip riding, helicopters,<br />

88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

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