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Out in the bay sat Breaksea Girl, at 60 ft this steel ketch was to provide ample space both above and below deck for our group of 10. We met skipper and co-owner of Wild Fiordland, Brian Humphrey, and immediately felt we were in good hands - Brian is a marine engineer with 10 + years experience sailing in and around the Sounds. Breaksea Girl is very obviously his and Fi’s pride and joy. We were also introduced to Kim Reichle who was not only an amazing chef but shared a wealth of knowledge and personal experience of NZ flora and fauna with us during our 5 days together. A canadian with a kiwi heart. Supper Cove was really turning it on for us - not a breath of wind and the sun was out in full force - so the late morning was spent exploring the Seaforth River in sea kayaks and making the most of the fine weather with the traditional leap from the top deck roof into the cold sound waters. In the afternoon we set off leaving Supper Cove and cruising the 9 Fathoms Passage, Paget Passage around the Useless Islands into the Basin where we anchored for our first night. Looking at a map does not give a true indication of the vastness of Dusky nor the number of islands, inlets, bays or coves. At every turn we were treated to scenery that was mind blowing and a growing sense of how this place could get under your skin was becoming more apparent. Our next 4 days were spent exploring the many gems that Dusky offers. One of the highlights was landing on the hallowed ground of Pigeon Island at Richard Henry Landing. Little evidence remains of New Zealand's first wildlife ranger's habitation. However, with the knowledgeable guidance of Scotty, the story of Richard Henry, his life on Pigeon Island and the exploits of the curator and caretaker of Resolution Island beginning in 1894, came to life. Having just cruised the surrounding waters we developed immense admiration for the resilience Richard Henry had for the back and forth sailing of his dinghy Putangi. From 1894 for the next 14 years Henry single-handedly moved well over 700 birds including roa, kiwi, and kākāpo. He released most of them onto Resolution Island and Five Fingers Peninsula. Sadly his efforts ended in despair when stoats swam to the islands in 1900. He would surely be heartened now, to witness the successful work undertaken by the Kākāpo Recovery Team on Anchor Island. Taking the tender into Pickersgill Harbour and landing to walk into Astronomer Point was also a highlight. With rata branches hanging out over the water we could imagine Cook's ship Resolution backed into the cove and pulled alongside. Notes from Lieutenant Pickersgill record his finding of this anchorage - ‘After getting into this passage we opened one of the most inchanting little Harbours I ever saw; it was surrounded with high Lands intirely cover’d with tall shady trees rising like an amphitheatre; and with the sweet swelling Notes of a number of Birds made the finest Harmony.’ Kim had previously spent time with the Kākāpo Recovery Team as a volunteer so it was such a pleasure to land on Anchor Island and venture into Kākāpo country hearing about her first hand experiences with these delightful and very special taonga. The walk in from Luncheon Cove to Lake Kirirua took us through bush with a pre-historic feel and while highly unlikely, the possibility of coming across a rare Kākāpo was enough to fill us with a quiet air of anticipation. Back on board every meal was a culinary delight - the seafood provided by Scotty’s efforts included crayfish and paua all cooked to perfection by Kim. Of note is the conservation code adhered to by Brian. Fi and their crew who operate under a ‘no take-out’ policy with respect to fishing and ultimately practise the ethos of ‘protect and preserve’. Only ever enough kai moana is gathered to have a feed on that day. From Dusky we ventured out past Breaksea Island, up the west coast and into Doubtful Sound. After our last night together we made our farewells to the crew of Breaksea Girl and headed back to Te Anau via a bus ride and boat trip across Lake Manapouri. Our 5 days on Breaksea Girl had been the elixir everyone in our group of 10 was after. In the footsteps of Cook and his crew we too ate like kings, got out for decent walks, enjoyed evenings around the guitar, shared stories, read and at times just sat and soaked up the surrounding beauty. We came away with a greater appreciation for Dusky Sound / Tamatea - it’s conservation story and fascinating history. A very kiwi trip of a lifetime - Dad would have loved it. Previous page: The tiny landing platform at Supper Cove - our arrival point in Dusky Sound Above: Dusky Sound in all its beauty 42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229
Inserts top row: Wet Jacket Arm, Moanauta - where waterfalls, misty skies and thousand metre tops converge. / Breaksea Girl - our home for the next 5 days / The team ready to load outside Fiordland Helicopters Te Anau hangar Bottom row: Soaking up the sun and the never-ending views on the front deck / More crayfish anyone / Pickersgill Harbour - in the footsteps of the Resolution crew.
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