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Hike two: Rangipo Hut
Two days, one night
5 km one way to Rangipo, approximately 4 hours return
Access to this section of the Round the Mountain Track is from
Desert Road, via the Waihohonu Track (a full day hike) or from the
4WD access road to Tukino Ski Field. We took the latter, and have a
new found respect for the local skiers, who drive this road to access
the ski field.
This side of the mountain is in stark contrast to our first hike, the
track for most of the way is sparce of vegetation and very exposed
to the elements. According to DOC it is the only true desert
landscape in the North Island, with features of vast plains of windswept
sands and volcanic rock.
The first significant landmark, and challenging section of this part of
the track is crossing the Whangaehu River lahar path, an area with
great historical significance in New Zealand, being responsible for
the 1953 Tangiwai Disaster. There are plenty of signs warning you
that you are in the area and they are somewhat ominous. “Do not
stop”… “Do not enter if you hear a loud roaring noise upstream.”
It does make for a rather nervous crossing, not only does it come
with some potential lahar danger, the terrain itself is also quite
challenging, with large rocks and valleys to clamber over and
under as well as a single person bridge in the middle. However, the
scenery here is spectacular, particularly the view of the mountain on
a clear day.
Although only 5km to the hut, the terrain is varied with lots of ups
and downs. The trail is largely unformed but well-marked, mostly
rocky with large tracks of fine scoria, making our poles invaluable.
Rangipo Hut is a serviced 20 bunk hut facing east and sitting at an
altitude of 1556m. It’s perched on the southern edge of the desert
looking out to the Kaimanawa Mountains and Desert Road. The
positioning of this hut offers impressive sunrises on a clear morning,
worth getting up early for, and a vast night sky. Reading the hut
book, with tales of stormy nights and blizzard conditions, it reminded
us that clear weather is not always a guarantee.
"Extreme lahar risk, next 400m.
Do not stop in this area.
Do not proceed past here if you
hear a loud roaring noise upriver"
If you are lucky enough to get great weather, you can climb the
rocky outcrop directly behind the hut, and the mountain will reveal
itself.
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