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Summer issue of Adventure Magazine
Summer issue of Adventure Magazine
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Snow Capped Sunrises<br />
The coffee is hot and after a ski-deprived lockdown,<br />
everyone is raring to go. The early 2000s Subaru<br />
station wagon is loaded with ski equipment, tramping<br />
gear, and boys, rolling four deep. We drive alongside<br />
the lake soaking in the morning sunrise. The clouds<br />
finally clear and colors light up the surrounding snowcapped<br />
mountains. We find our exit, divide up the<br />
supplies, and before I know it we are heading up the<br />
steep mountain track.<br />
It Begins<br />
The initial climb is steep, so steep that there is a clear<br />
set of waterfalls tumbling down the rocks. The 4wd<br />
switchback changes into a narrowing trail which leads<br />
to the base of a waterfall. Dead end. We backtrack<br />
onto a faint, aggressive trail that involves a healthy<br />
amount of bushwhacking. The debate whether<br />
one should attach his ski boot to the pin binding<br />
backward with the boot hanging down or to click in<br />
the traditional position to avoid sticks in your boots<br />
becomes a hot topic. Boot shells downward is the<br />
winner on the day.<br />
The bush slowly thins and Otago's high alpine<br />
tussock begins to show itself. As time passes the<br />
climb becomes riskier as now there are cliff bands<br />
below us with little to no organic matter to latch onto.<br />
Not long after we encounter an endless boulder<br />
field. With a 20kg pack, each step must be carefully<br />
chosen as a simple slip may lead to a twisted ankle or<br />
a solid 2-3 metre fall into a hole.<br />
A Lonely River<br />
Four hours pass and we find ourselves on a plateau<br />
with spectacular views. The morning light bounces<br />
off the mountain tops and contrasts greatly with the<br />
glacier lake below. Up ahead we get a clear view of<br />
a stunning high alpine valley with a wandering river<br />
leading to the waterfalls below. The terrain here is<br />
flat, and progress is quick. We leap across the river<br />
and begin the climb towards the saddle. The climb<br />
isn’t as steep, but the tussock is slippery. We slog<br />
upwards and the four of us converge at the saddle.<br />
We cross from the north aspect onto the south-facing<br />
ridge which holds fresh snow. Great news, it is finally<br />
time to ski!<br />
Saddle Sores<br />
Luckily for us, the snow stays cold, and the<br />
conditions are exceptional for skiing. Each turn<br />
snaps around without much effort. On the way<br />
down we spot our humble dwelling. It is an old<br />
1920’s stone hut with a door that must be about<br />
5ft tall. The luxuries of our accommodation<br />
include a fireplace, a rock table, and a single<br />
four mattresses sleeping platform. What was<br />
supposed to take 3-4 hours to get here instead<br />
took 7½ hours. Nothing a cheeky Parrotdog Beer<br />
and late lunch can’t fix.<br />
We unload camping, cooking, and sleeping<br />
supplies. The boys rally and we take off up the<br />
hill looking to catch some sunset turns. On our<br />
way down we observe the exposed basin filled<br />
with rocks, chutes, couloirs, and open faces. Our<br />
progress is much faster with light packs. We scope<br />
out some long lines above the saddle we had skied<br />
and the snow looks phenomenal. We reach the top<br />
before our shadows are too long and the sunset is<br />
beginning to reach its peak. Matt and Kit both scope<br />
a tasty-looking chute that has gold rays dancing off<br />
the center of it. It looks like a ripper. Nick as per usual<br />
seeks more action up further in seriously big terrain.<br />
"On the way down<br />
we spot our humble<br />
dwelling. It is an<br />
old 1920’s stone<br />
hut with a door that<br />
must be about 5ft<br />
tall. The luxuries of<br />
our accommodation<br />
include a fireplace,<br />
a rock table, and<br />
a single four<br />
mattresses sleeping<br />
platform."<br />
Previous Page: Enjoying some spectacular views on the way.<br />
Above: The hut, somewhere in western Otago.<br />
Right: Cold conditions allow for exceptional skiing.<br />
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229