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Summer issue of Adventure Magazine

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Snow Capped Sunrises<br />

The coffee is hot and after a ski-deprived lockdown,<br />

everyone is raring to go. The early 2000s Subaru<br />

station wagon is loaded with ski equipment, tramping<br />

gear, and boys, rolling four deep. We drive alongside<br />

the lake soaking in the morning sunrise. The clouds<br />

finally clear and colors light up the surrounding snowcapped<br />

mountains. We find our exit, divide up the<br />

supplies, and before I know it we are heading up the<br />

steep mountain track.<br />

It Begins<br />

The initial climb is steep, so steep that there is a clear<br />

set of waterfalls tumbling down the rocks. The 4wd<br />

switchback changes into a narrowing trail which leads<br />

to the base of a waterfall. Dead end. We backtrack<br />

onto a faint, aggressive trail that involves a healthy<br />

amount of bushwhacking. The debate whether<br />

one should attach his ski boot to the pin binding<br />

backward with the boot hanging down or to click in<br />

the traditional position to avoid sticks in your boots<br />

becomes a hot topic. Boot shells downward is the<br />

winner on the day.<br />

The bush slowly thins and Otago's high alpine<br />

tussock begins to show itself. As time passes the<br />

climb becomes riskier as now there are cliff bands<br />

below us with little to no organic matter to latch onto.<br />

Not long after we encounter an endless boulder<br />

field. With a 20kg pack, each step must be carefully<br />

chosen as a simple slip may lead to a twisted ankle or<br />

a solid 2-3 metre fall into a hole.<br />

A Lonely River<br />

Four hours pass and we find ourselves on a plateau<br />

with spectacular views. The morning light bounces<br />

off the mountain tops and contrasts greatly with the<br />

glacier lake below. Up ahead we get a clear view of<br />

a stunning high alpine valley with a wandering river<br />

leading to the waterfalls below. The terrain here is<br />

flat, and progress is quick. We leap across the river<br />

and begin the climb towards the saddle. The climb<br />

isn’t as steep, but the tussock is slippery. We slog<br />

upwards and the four of us converge at the saddle.<br />

We cross from the north aspect onto the south-facing<br />

ridge which holds fresh snow. Great news, it is finally<br />

time to ski!<br />

Saddle Sores<br />

Luckily for us, the snow stays cold, and the<br />

conditions are exceptional for skiing. Each turn<br />

snaps around without much effort. On the way<br />

down we spot our humble dwelling. It is an old<br />

1920’s stone hut with a door that must be about<br />

5ft tall. The luxuries of our accommodation<br />

include a fireplace, a rock table, and a single<br />

four mattresses sleeping platform. What was<br />

supposed to take 3-4 hours to get here instead<br />

took 7½ hours. Nothing a cheeky Parrotdog Beer<br />

and late lunch can’t fix.<br />

We unload camping, cooking, and sleeping<br />

supplies. The boys rally and we take off up the<br />

hill looking to catch some sunset turns. On our<br />

way down we observe the exposed basin filled<br />

with rocks, chutes, couloirs, and open faces. Our<br />

progress is much faster with light packs. We scope<br />

out some long lines above the saddle we had skied<br />

and the snow looks phenomenal. We reach the top<br />

before our shadows are too long and the sunset is<br />

beginning to reach its peak. Matt and Kit both scope<br />

a tasty-looking chute that has gold rays dancing off<br />

the center of it. It looks like a ripper. Nick as per usual<br />

seeks more action up further in seriously big terrain.<br />

"On the way down<br />

we spot our humble<br />

dwelling. It is an<br />

old 1920’s stone<br />

hut with a door that<br />

must be about 5ft<br />

tall. The luxuries of<br />

our accommodation<br />

include a fireplace,<br />

a rock table, and<br />

a single four<br />

mattresses sleeping<br />

platform."<br />

Previous Page: Enjoying some spectacular views on the way.<br />

Above: The hut, somewhere in western Otago.<br />

Right: Cold conditions allow for exceptional skiing.<br />

16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

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