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adventure
where actions speak louder than words
ISSUE 229
DEC 2021/JAN 2022
NZ $10.90 incl. GST
summer
issue

The future is here.
It’s asking us to be ready,
to think bigger.
To embrace the trail
ahead and bring everyone
with us along the way.
Today, we celebrate our
first 40 years by looking
forward to the next.
#MerrellFuture40
Performance and lifestyle clothing and footwear for both Men and Women

Join us outside.
If it’s outdoors, it’s Merrell territory.
merrell.co.nz

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@DEEPCREEKBREWINGCO
#FORTHEADVENTURE

Finding the silver lining
In July 2021 we moved our home and business from Auckland to
Turangi, to bike, to hike, to ski, and to fish the winter season in the
Central Plateau. Turangi is an awesome little town, nestled on the
banks of the legendary Tongariro river and under the shade of the
mighty maunga, Mt Ruapehu. It seemed like a great way to spend
winter and it turned out a much better idea than we thought. In
just a few hours the world as we knew it changed and the Delta
variant arrived. We were lucky that we had made the move out of
Auckland, sure we still had family back in lockdown and that was
hard for everyone, but the fortunate decision to move south was
stained by the fact that we could not go back into Auckland and
see friends and family, we were isolated.
Isolation, unlike lockdown, has a real positive side. It makes you
focus and it makes you aware of where you are and what you
have. It was hard to enjoy skiing knowing that our friends and
family were locked down. We stopped putting images on social
media and focused on doing what we could for those locked
away; making sure we stayed in contact, sent happy surprise
gifts, and tried to maintain a positive view; which for us wasn’t
hard seeing our location and the fact that we weren’t locked down.
We had stunning weather for most of winter which meant that
we could ski, and tramp and fish. But knowing that in the ‘wink
of an eye’ it could all be taken away, as the shadow of lockdown
loomed, it made you savour every moment.
We became very aware of the change in season, in the Central
Plateau the seasons, unlike in the north, are very distinct. The
bare branches of winter filled with leaves and then blossoms, and
it went from mornings of minus ten to afternoons of thirty degrees.
There is nothing good about Covid, it divides people, it ruins
businesses, and it makes people sick. One thing it has taught
everybody is that things can change and be taken away very
quickly, and the adage of ‘living each day as if it is your last’ takes
on a new meaning.
But looking back over the last four months it has been a time
of immersion; not just being able to do great activities but to be
immersed in a region that is so diverse and changeable, the silver
lining has been that this unique experience would not have been
possible should we have been able to travel back to Auckland.
This is our summer issue and the team here at Adventure truly
hope that you all, everyone, have the summer you hope for and
have been waiting to experience and many have earned.
Have a great Christmas and an adventurous New Year see you all
again in 2022!
Steve Dickinson - Editor
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Trekking pole attachment with upper
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Internal hydration sleeve
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Front and side pockets.
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Making the most of our last week in Turangi after four
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page 14
#229
contents
Image by Lynne Dickinson Self portrait
Image by Tai Juneau
page 26
page 50
10//Outdoor Sanity
in a Covid world
14//Four Wide
in the Otago High Country
22//The Coins of Judas
photographic exploitation
26//There and Back
two sides of Mt Ruapehu
34//Packrafting
Aoraki/Mt Cook
40//Tamatea Dusky Sound
in the footsteps of Cook
44//Summit Up
sunset on Mt Ruapehu
50//The Dunstan Trail
more than just amazing engineering
58//An Aquatic Adventure
the art of fly fishing
plus
74. gear guides
96. active adventure
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04//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

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BEHIND THE COVER
Legendary Mark Matthews had an idea about
double towing at ‘The Right’ in Australia, and at
the same time he would shoot Taj Burrow from
behind.
From Russell Ord:
“On this day both Mark and Taj started with a
couple of warm-up waves, smaller, cleaner and
user-friendly. However, it did not take long for
Mark to say, “let’s go this one”. I could see this
dark mutant beast coming from miles away
and knew it was one of the biggest waves of
the day. They both let go of the rope so there
was no escape; they were at the mercy of the
ocean. I documented a piece of history, the
wave decided not to participate – it shut down
violently. Taj made it to safer ground, however
Mark got the beating of his life.”
Re Bull Illume Finalist 2016 Photographer: Russell Ord Athletes: Taj Burrows & Mark Matthews
Location: The right in Australia Category: Finalist 2016, Energy
Words and images courtesy Red Bull Illume
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
Steve Dickinson
Mob: 027 577 5014
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
NEW STORE FOR QUEENSTOWN
ART DIRECTOR
Lynne Dickinson
design@pacificmedia.co.nz
SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES
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Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000
OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)
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@adventurevanlifenz
Bivouac are proud to announce the opening of their new Queenstown store at Five Mile.
www.bivouac.co.nz/bivouac-outdoor-queenstown
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PUBLISHERS
NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by:
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Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz
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Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped selfaddressed
envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may
be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work
published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without
permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable
effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of
this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or
damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of
information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with
respect to any of the material contained herein.
Adventure Magazine
Whereever we go,
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We use RAD car hire, not just because
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08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

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OUTDOOR SANITY
in a Covid World
By Annabel Anderson
The day was Tuesday, 17 August 2021. It was a stormy
mid winter day that the Southern Lakes had been
looking forward to all season after a lean winter on the
snow front. Majority of the early winter storms had hit
the eastern coastal pathway of the Southern Divide but
with over half a metre of snow in the forecast it was the
storm-riding day of the season and Treble Cone was
pulsating with an energy that only happens a couple of
times a winter when powder fever hits.
As the front finally cleared allowing an hour and a
half of visibility before the lifts shut that afternoon,
anticipation was high for what the next day would bring
as mountains across the Southern Lakes received the
dump of the season.
On the journey back to town, whispers began to spread
about the re-emergence of Covid in the community after
a 15 month hiatus in which New Zealand had enjoyed
a somewhat normal life while the rest of the world
had descended into chaos. The 6pm news briefing
confirmed the worst and advised that the country was
going into a snap lockdown from midnight that evening.
In an instant, the tone of the town changed.
Despair, grief, frustration and loss summarise the
feeling that fell over the village that evening and in the
days that followed as the magnitude of Delta kicked
in as we all looked up at "what might have been". The
usual winter stoke was gone, replaced with glances of
acknowledgement of collective mourning as everyone
began another round of playing ‘Go Home Stay Home’.
It was as though candy had been dangled in front of our
faces and then snatched away just as we were about to
take the first bite. Unlike the lockdowns of 2020 which
had an element of warning, this time the mood was
different and it was stark.
No matter where I’ve found myself situated in the world,
or what situations I’ve found myself in, I’ve always
managed to find a degree of calm amongst the chaos
by gravitating to the outdoors. For the months of July-
October in the Southern Lakes of the South Island the
alpine playgrounds above the snowline spring to life.
Add in a snap Lockdown game of 'Go Home Stay
Home', the shutting down of the mountain playgrounds
and all of a sudden I became extremely grateful for
knowing what was accessible straight out the backdoor.
Like a daily dose of medicine to maintain a degree of
mental and emotional equilibrium, what was accessible
from the doorstep and ‘local’ was a stark reminder of
how important being outside was going to be to mentally
survive another lockdown..
Being in New Zealand is a lot easier than a lot of
countries around the world when it comes to making
the most of what lies down the street and well within the
strict guidelines of permissible ‘outdoor recreation’.
Sometimes this has been easy, sometimes it’s been
more of a challenge. When I say challenge, I’m referring
to time spent living in and amongst multi-level high rise
buildings in foreign cities resembling concrete jungles.
Amongst the everlasting grey haze of a London winter
I discovered the hidden treasures of the city; a maze of
secret paths that lead to wide open commons, hidden
gardens and walkways that weave their path beside
the river and interconnect like veins all over the city.
These veins became my way of getting around, my daily
commutes by bike and the places I would run to escape
the oppressive nature of the concrete jungle.
Fast forward to 2021 and we’ve been forced to rethink
the meaning of outdoor recreation. When people once
thought of it as getting into the hills, multi-day hikes,
surfing empty waves on remote beaches and the like,
the restrictions of lockdowns have forced a re-think.
When you're confined to what you can access from your
doorstep a pair of shoes and the footpath constitute the
ability to remove yourself from your home/work/family
environment to provide a much needed escape and a
mechanism to cope in a world of daily unknowns.
This ability to remove yourself, interact with your
environment and re-enter allows us to return and show
up as a better version of ourselves, especially when
the unknown sees a natural rise in anxiety coupled with
shorter fuses all around. An injection of oxygen through
our bodies helps not only cleanse our airways, but also
our minds and our emotional state.
Many of us have known the benefits of the outdoors
for a long time. Fresh air, the breeze on your face,
sand between your toes, bird song, the rustling of wind
through trees, water running over rocks and simply
being able to escape from being around large crowds
of people. For those that have long been drawn to the
outdoors, an increasing amount of research has backed
up these anecdotal benefits and has been shown to
improve mood and focus and to help reduce stress.
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11

Combine time spent outdoors with physical activity, and
the benefits increase substantially.
If the cycle of lockdowns have sent us inside, we have
begun to crave being outside more than ever.
But do you really need ‘stuff’ and destinations to be able to
reap the benefits of what outside has to offer? Simply put,
the most accessible place is what you find directly outside
your backdoor.
When you’re not able to leave your local neighbourhood
to recreate it’s incredible at how you can make the most
of what lies on your doorstep. The simple act of walking
or riding a bike instead of taking a car short distances will
instantly elevate your mood.
There is definitely a notion of needing ‘stuff’ to be able to
enjoy the outdoors with demand for camping, outdoor and
sporting equipment skyrocketing along with the demand
for boats, converted vans, utes, roof top tents, caravans
and motorhomes. In reality, all you need is yourself, a will
to get outside and a commitment to make something out of
nothing.
A pair of sneakers represents freedom of walking and
running, two wheels allows you to get from point A to B
with less reliance on others and the chance to interact with
your environment to help bring a sense of calm amongst
environments of high pressure and stress.
Lost
by David Wagoner
Stand still.
The trees ahead and bushes beside you
Are not lost.
Wherever you are is called Here,
And you must treat it as a powerful stranger,
Must ask permission to know it and be
known.
The forest breathes. Listen. It answers,
I have made this place around you.
If you leave it, you may come back again,
saying Here.
No two trees are the same to Raven.
No two branches are the same to Wren.
If what a tree or a bush does is lost on you,
You are surely lost.
Stand still.
The forest knows
Where you are. You must let it find you.
Knowing that you’ll come back a better version of yourself
with the ease of embracing what lies right outside your
door while working in harmony with the seasons and the
weather to do so.
The harmonious interaction with nature that helps one
self regulate when needed. Majority of this is far from
adrenaline inducing but it also has no need to be.
Previous Page: If you look, you shall find the magic of what lies on your doorstep or close to it. Make a little effort and reap the reward.
Above: In the shadow of Aoraki Mt Cook mining the easterly puffs on Lake Pukaki in the fading light
Images by Nathan Secker
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

we ARE climbing
John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka
Photo: Tom Hoyle
For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing
you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our
lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.
Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage
STORES NATIONWIDE
www.bivouac.co.nz

FOUR WIDE
Otago's high country
By Tai Juneau
Tai Juneau is a freelance
photographer and digital marketer
who specializes in lifestyle and action
content. Tai spent his entire life in
the outdoor community either in the
mountains or by the ocean. He was
born in the Eastern Sierras of the US
and raised in New Plymouth, New
Zealand. He recently retired as a ski
racer who spent time on the New
Zealand Ski Team before racing for
Colorado Mountain College in the
western NCAA circuit.
Tai currently splits his time between
Oakura, New Zealand and Steamboat
Springs, Colorado. His freelance work
includes landscapes, architecture/
real-estate, product, and sport/event
photography.
Old Friends
“It's only about 3-4km. Should be at the
hut by about noon” said Nick.
“Sounds great, I am excited about a
New Zealand Hut trip” I reply.
“I am taking it easy on my ankle the
physio says to only go on even terrain
and no carrying weight,” says Nick. It
has been a long time since I had seen
Nick and just under a decade since we
ski raced at Coronet Peak together. The
great thing about old friends is that you
pick up exactly where you left off. It's
like you never left them. Nick and I both
share a passion for the mountains, but
little did we know how much work we
had set out in front of us.
Website: www.taijuneau.com
Instagram: @taididjuneau
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//15

Snow Capped Sunrises
The coffee is hot and after a ski-deprived lockdown,
everyone is raring to go. The early 2000s Subaru
station wagon is loaded with ski equipment, tramping
gear, and boys, rolling four deep. We drive alongside
the lake soaking in the morning sunrise. The clouds
finally clear and colors light up the surrounding snowcapped
mountains. We find our exit, divide up the
supplies, and before I know it we are heading up the
steep mountain track.
It Begins
The initial climb is steep, so steep that there is a clear
set of waterfalls tumbling down the rocks. The 4wd
switchback changes into a narrowing trail which leads
to the base of a waterfall. Dead end. We backtrack
onto a faint, aggressive trail that involves a healthy
amount of bushwhacking. The debate whether
one should attach his ski boot to the pin binding
backward with the boot hanging down or to click in
the traditional position to avoid sticks in your boots
becomes a hot topic. Boot shells downward is the
winner on the day.
The bush slowly thins and Otago's high alpine
tussock begins to show itself. As time passes the
climb becomes riskier as now there are cliff bands
below us with little to no organic matter to latch onto.
Not long after we encounter an endless boulder
field. With a 20kg pack, each step must be carefully
chosen as a simple slip may lead to a twisted ankle or
a solid 2-3 metre fall into a hole.
A Lonely River
Four hours pass and we find ourselves on a plateau
with spectacular views. The morning light bounces
off the mountain tops and contrasts greatly with the
glacier lake below. Up ahead we get a clear view of
a stunning high alpine valley with a wandering river
leading to the waterfalls below. The terrain here is
flat, and progress is quick. We leap across the river
and begin the climb towards the saddle. The climb
isn’t as steep, but the tussock is slippery. We slog
upwards and the four of us converge at the saddle.
We cross from the north aspect onto the south-facing
ridge which holds fresh snow. Great news, it is finally
time to ski!
Saddle Sores
Luckily for us, the snow stays cold, and the
conditions are exceptional for skiing. Each turn
snaps around without much effort. On the way
down we spot our humble dwelling. It is an old
1920’s stone hut with a door that must be about
5ft tall. The luxuries of our accommodation
include a fireplace, a rock table, and a single
four mattresses sleeping platform. What was
supposed to take 3-4 hours to get here instead
took 7½ hours. Nothing a cheeky Parrotdog Beer
and late lunch can’t fix.
We unload camping, cooking, and sleeping
supplies. The boys rally and we take off up the
hill looking to catch some sunset turns. On our
way down we observe the exposed basin filled
with rocks, chutes, couloirs, and open faces. Our
progress is much faster with light packs. We scope
out some long lines above the saddle we had skied
and the snow looks phenomenal. We reach the top
before our shadows are too long and the sunset is
beginning to reach its peak. Matt and Kit both scope
a tasty-looking chute that has gold rays dancing off
the center of it. It looks like a ripper. Nick as per usual
seeks more action up further in seriously big terrain.
"On the way down
we spot our humble
dwelling. It is an
old 1920’s stone
hut with a door that
must be about 5ft
tall. The luxuries of
our accommodation
include a fireplace,
a rock table, and
a single four
mattresses sleeping
platform."
Previous Page: Enjoying some spectacular views on the way.
Above: The hut, somewhere in western Otago.
Right: Cold conditions allow for exceptional skiing.
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17

The golden hour passes as Matt pulls into the
chute creating a horizontal cut across the top to
mitigate possible avalanches. We hear nothing
but a scratch of edges. This southwest-facing
section has already refrozen and the snow
screeches underfoot. Not the most favorable
conditions, but Matt skis it like a champ. He
flows left to right until he has completely exited
the approx 300m of vertical. Nick seeks a
different chute which to get in requires passing
over a few rocks in a dangerous no-fall zone.
He tiptoes through the exposure and clips in on
top of a more forgiving and chalky south-facing
line. He rips long drawn-out turns through great
conditions. As the sun sets, Kit and I begin to ski
a south-facing slope with chalky snow. Our smiles
are big as we ski down with the light dropping
quickly. Our next stop is dinner at the hut.
Checked-In Whenever
We were all feeling the solid 12-hour day of
slogging both on and off-snow, but each of the
few turns we had were worth it. Not long after
clicking out of our skis, we are sharing our
dehydrated meals, chicken curry has never taste
so good. Sneakily Nick cracks open a mulled
wine which managed to sneak its way into his
pack. After a cheeky couple of wines, the boys
are almost lights out standing up. We jump into
our beds one at a time as there aren’t more than
two square metres of usable space inside the
hut. Once we are all in our sleeping bags, we
are four wide packed like Weetbix in a box, but
never happier.
Round 2
In less than the blink of an eye, it's 6:00 am. We
start the day with a quick round of porridge, as
the sunrise begins to peel down the mountain
tops. We set off deeper into the basin with our
eyes on a spiny-looking couloir topped with icecovered
rocks. The couloir from top to bottom
is narrow, steep, and has a huge overhanging
rock face on one side. Naturally, most people are
deterred when they see obstacles like these, but
not this group. Our adrenaline begins to rise as
the crampons and ice axes come into play.
The Creepy Craggy Couloir
The group decides to boot pack up the guts as
there is no easy access into the couloir from the
top. Conditions seem stable with a frozen layer
underneath and about 20cm of fresh snow on
top. We transition quickly and before long we
enter the bottom section. Looking up I can see
the boys Nick, Kit, and Matt creeping into the
terrain one huff at a time. The rock overhead
feels like it nearly spans the whole chute. The
climb continues to get steeper and steeper.
Nearing the top, the terrain is extremely steep
but luckily there is a wind lip that sits just below
the top. The boys pull up.
At the peak the boys guess the slope angle to be
pushing 50-55 degrees. The transition to ski at
the top is careful and precise. One mistake could
mean a solid 300m tumble down across a rockridden
path to the bottom of the couloir.
Nick leads the charge.
" This southwest-facing
section has already
refrozen and the snow
screeches underfoot.
Not the most favorable
conditions, but Matt skis
it like a champ."
Above and right: Hiking up so we can ski down
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

"We saw wild landscapes, skied during sunset,
found fantastic snow, got our adrenaline pumping,
and had great yarns."
Once clicked in he begins to slide towards the
center. Hop turns are the first choice for turns
when the terrain is this steep. The first one always
brings your heart rate up. You’re wondering if your
equipment is dialed in. You hope that your skis
will stay on, but you never know.
Nick executes his first hop turn without a hitch
and quickly makes his way down the guts. Next,
Matt then followed by Kit. Each has a slightly
different technique but manages to make easy
work of the terrain. We all agree the snow was
perfect. It is rare to find such favorable conditions
in the backcountry. The excitement from such
a feature has caused great curiosity about the
surrounding mountains. We transitioned back
towards the uphill gear and set off for a final lap
around the side of the peak we had just skied.
Final Lap
We boot pack up another chute ensuring we
beat the spring thaw that was forecasted. The
top brings to a large outlook with the surrounding
mountains are towering over the glacier lake
below. Time to crack a well-deserved cold one
with the boys!. The Parrotdog brews from Welly’s
have never tasted so good.
At this point with great snow, extreme steep
skiing, and a few thousand metres of vertical
under our belts we all feel extremely satisfied.
The post lockdown jitters have been given the
boot and anything from here is a bonus. For our
last run, we scope a few more features we want
to ski on the way down and are stunned as we
find the best snow yet. 30cm of straight beautiful
cream. We ski back to the hut and pack up. A
four-hour trek down the valley to the car and
we’re done. I bag on Nick telling him there is no
way that the hike was only 4km.
The trip couldn’t have gone better. We saw wild
landscapes, skied during sunset, found fantastic
snow, got our adrenaline pumping, and had great
yarns. I would just give caution to the next guy
for any trip with Nick is likely to be twice as far as
what he thinks, but it will be worth it.
Left: Creating fresh lines
HIGH
PERFORMANCE
THAT DOESN’T
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THE COINS OF JUDAS
photographic exploitation?
By Steve Dickinson
There is possibly no greater betrayal than that of the
kiss planted by Judas Iscariot after the last supper in the
garden of Gethsemane. This smacker on Jesus’ cheek,
this insignificant act of affection, condemned Jesus and
eventually Judas to death. Judas received 30 pieces of
sliver, most likely 30 shekels, about $3.50 – a price he
eventually tried to return, but overwhelmed with remorse
he hung himself. The 30 pieces of silver he earned bought
the land he ultimately was buried, in as he was not deemed
worthy to be buried with ordinary people. I am sure there is
a moral there but that is not our path.
"Then one of the twelve, named
Judas Iscariot went to the chief
priests and said, "What are you
willing to give me to betray Him to
you?" And they weighed out thirty
pieces of silver to him. From then
on, he began looking for a good
opportunity to betray Jesus."
Matthew 25.14-16
The ‘coins of Judas’ refer to the price that we are happy
to receive to sacrifice that which is close to our heart, that
which we hold special, that which is uniquely ours, and that
which to some may deem priceless but to others is worth
little more than 30 pieces of Pharisee’s silver.
There is debate and aggressive dispute over the exploitation
of our natural environment and the activities that go on
within it. On one side ‘locals’ who don’t want to share, don’t
want the crowds, who simply don’t want the exposure.
On to the other side of the scale you have the magazine,
video, YouTube, social media, etc who all want to display
the beauty of that environment and the fun that can be had.
And somewhere in the middle between ‘keep it quiet’ and
‘show the world’ is the photographer trying to capture those
moments of splendour.
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Top: Photographers are everywhere in Hawaii
Above: Our editor, Steve Dickinson, in the blue t-shirt at Teahupoo in Tahiti during Code Red 2011

Yet some of those photographers are seen as the Judas
willing to sell out some special place for 30 pieces of silver
(actually a lot less). But is that really likely? Is not the
photographer’s first passion the same as that of the locals?
Talk with any professional photographers and they will
regale you with tales of abuse, projectiles, slashed tyres
and even death threats. Yet it is those photographers that
are willing to risk much to get that great shot, whether that’s
bobbing around in a boat shooting 30 ft waves, or scaling a
mountain to shoot a climber, or hiking for days lugging kilos
of camera gear just to get that one sunset shot.
For example: In 2010 I was asked to shoot Mel Bartels
(famous Hawaiian surfer) on the infamous West Side of
Hawaii, I was advised by a local North Shore photographer
and good friend not to go and definitely don’t take ya
camera gear, the locals don’t like the exposure. His parting
comment when I said I was going to go was, that he would
see me in hospital later. I spoke with Mel on the phone,
and she assured me it would be fine and that the localism
was “blown out of proportion by the haoles and the pussies
on the North Shore”.
We arrived early, the sun slowly rising, the surf pumping.
Mel and her girlfriend Teddy met us in the car park. As I
extracted the 600m lens and tripod from the back of the
rental car, the traffic was brought to a halt by a colossal
oversized 4x4 cruiser stopping in the middle of the street,
rocking back and forth on its over gelled suspension.
The window wound down and the black tinted space was
replaced by a heavily tattooed elbow the size of half a cow.
Out of the open window, a large Hawaiian man looked at
me and smiled (or snarled I wasn’t sure which).
I was paralysed like a rabbit in the headlights in the glare
of his mouthful of gold teeth, the difference between a
grin and a snarl became and internal confusion on how
to respond. The voice boomed down, “Bra what dah ya
fink ya doing eh?” Before I could reply Teddy embraced
me around the shoulders and replied, “he cool bra.” I felt
trapped between two large immoveable forces. There was
a moment of silence, a raise of the eyebrows, a nod, and
the deep beats faded as the window went up and the 4x4
drove off with the two Rottweiler’s in the back barking with
no sense of rhythm but with the same snarl-grin scenario.
I looked at Teddy she smiled raised her eyebrow and
laughed, “homies”. Not really sure what that meant but I
presumed it was under control. A wise man would have
seen the writing on the wall that even before I had left the
car park someone had confronted me.
To cut a long story short the rest of the day followed
exactly that same scenario. All day Hawaiians, both large
and small, would come and aggressively asked me to “f&^k
off Haole”, “what ya fink ya doin Haole”, “you got a death
wish bra?” To which my ever present body guard would
remind them I was here to shoot a local and they would
reluctantly simmer down.
At one point nature called and my bodyguard needed to
use the public convenience, she replaced herself with
one of the largest humans I have ever seen. While he
sat in front of me the number of those who said anything
dropped away to nothing. However, the nasty evil stares
still continued till my new mentor then decided to address
the stares with a “what ya lookin at brah? Steve with me.”
Eventually my bodyguard enclave grew to a small posse,
Top: Roys Peak, one of NZ most instagram famous spots. Image by Ondrej Machart
24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

ound by the care of the skinny Haole and a cooler of
longboard beer at which stage I felt suitably comfortable.
As the day drew to an end a larger human than my large
human bodyguard approached the group. He stood off
at a distance and with the silent communication of nods
and eyebrow lifting one of my posse decided to check him
out. As obviously part of the large human club there was
a quite a discussion and then eventually my large human
came and asked “hey Brah, my man wants to make sure
you won’t name the beach in ya snaps.” I assured him that
we never named the beach and with a multitude of clever
handshakes and a famed shuker to myself, he walked
away assured that the most popular beach on the West
Side of Hawaii (with the most obvious of landmarks) would
not get editorial mention in a magazine on the other side of
the world.
Photographers will risk a lot to get an image, whether
that is putting yourself a personal risk by putting yourself
in crazy situation (have another look at the cover of this
issue and see where the photographer is!) or by exposing
yourself to the local’s wrath. We all watch YouTube, we all
have social media, we all buy magazines, (you are reading
one now), we all want the eye candy, the wow shot of a
place or action. Do photographers really understand that
by taking images you risk the exploitation of some areas?
Of course we do, and any that are responsible do all they
can to mitigate that risk of over exposure.
But to dig below the surface, localism is not really
based purely on “if you don’t live here you can’t surf
here, walk here, climb here”, it has a basis in greed.
Sure there may be some locations that have become
overwhelmed by exposure, Roy’s Peak, Tongariro
Crossing etc. but generally those wow images that you
see are not easy to get to, nor are they easy to take. Most
are really inaccessible, so the cost of exposure it low.
Regardless, people get heated under the guise of the
“poor environment”. What we really have is people in white
pointy hats saying, “this is mine and I don’t want to share”.
To be honest localism is an embarrassment, it is a
reflection of an attitude of greed and indulgence. Imagine
if any other sport decided that if you don’t live here you
can’t play, that if you are not local you can’t fish, hunt, ski,
play rugby, you can’t participate. We would be up in arms
screaming with righteous indignation. Most places are
uncrowded for a good reason; they are too far, too hard to
get to and anyone who arrives there should be welcomed
for making the effort, not ridiculed because they don’t have
a bach nearby.
But as you turn these pages, you will see we don’t always
name places, and our photographers will continue to risk
life and limb to bring you that OMG shot. If you want to
find those special places, those uncrowded environments,
the ‘locals only’ places – get in your car, pull on ya boots,
pick up your pack. Go old school; check the weather,
check maps and go look and if you get there by hard slog
and good luck, but you get met by a group of angry locals
with an attitude of “if you don’t live here, you shouldn’t be
here” then f*&k em, you have earned it!
Top: Melanie Bartels, while on the World Tour of Surfing in 2009
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25

THERE AND BACK
Two sides to Mt Ruapehu
By Lynne Dickinson
Images by Lynne and Vicki Knell
When my friend called to see if I wanted to head out on an
overnight hike on Mt Ruapehu, my first reaction was, “absolutely”,
followed closely by “what if the skiing is good that day?” The
issue with hiking in an alpine environment, is that you really want
a clear weather day, which is also what you need for a great day
skiing.
So as everyone enjoyed the last of the spring skiing, we managed
to head off for a couple of overnight hikes in the surrounding trails
and would thoroughly recommend them both.
Both overnight huts were on the Round the Mountain Track, which
is as it sounds, a track that circumnavigates Mt Ruapehu. You
can walk the track in either direction and to do the whole track,
(66.2km loop) which takes between 4 – 6 days, with 6 huts to
choose from and various campsites available or you can choose
to do part of the track with access points from Whakapapa Village,
and off the road to Tukino and Turoa. You can also access the
Round the Mountain Track from a few feeder trails off the State
highway 1, Highway 47 and from Horopito.
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//27

Hike one: Mangaehuehu Hut
Two days, one night
9km one way – approximately 6 hours return
This hut is best accessed from the Ohakune Mountain Road, at
the 11km mark, with parking available at the track entrance. The
sign indicated that it was just under 9km to the hut and for the
first few kilometres you follow a well maintained track through the
bush. Within minutes you cross the first of many bridges before
gently climbing out of the bush onto an impressive boardwalk
that meanders through the wetlands. From here, on a clear day,
you can see the lifts of Turoa. The trail then heads back into the
beech forest and down to Waitonga Falls.
The 39m falls are the highest in the Tongariro National Park and
if you only have a few hours it’s worth the walk just to this point
and back again.
After the falls, the track becomes a little more rustic and is
littered with swing bridges and the occasional river crossing.
Although the river had a steady flow when we were there due to
the spring melt, (we could cross without getting our feet wet), you
needed to keep a look out for the orange markers on the other
side of the stream to know where the track went as this was not
overly obvious at first glance.
Previous Page: The lifts at Turoa Ski Field were visible in the background.
Top: Waitonga Falls / Insert: Well maintained boardwalks through some of the Dr Seuss like trees
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The thing that really impressed me about this hike was
the variety. We passed through dense beech forest, open
wetlands, numerous rivers, waterfalls, rocky gully’s and
stunted trees like something from a Dr Seuss book and
finally to the open tussock fields that I was more familiar
with in this area.
You can walk to Mangaehuehu Hut in 3 hours but allow
yourself longer to enjoy the numerous scenic spots along
the way. Mangaehuehu Hut is an 18 bunk serviced hut
with incredible views over the surrounding area. Due to
its elevation (1285m) and the fact that we had a clear day,
you can see for miles. The hut is well established with a
fantastic pot belly fireplace in the centre of the hut and large
picture windows allowing excellent views in every direction,
(a real bonus when the sky turned the most intense red and
rewarded us with an incredible sunset).
If you wish to carry on further than the Mangaehuehu Hut,
it’s another 5 ½ hours to the Rangipo Hut. We chose to
stay put and head back the way we had come the following
morning. Due to the time of year we saw very few people
and were the only ones staying in the hut that night.
"They say that variety is the spice
of life, and this hike had plenty!"
Inserts: Another swing bridge just before we reached the hut / Mangaehuehu Hut enjoying a spectacular sunset
Bottom: Crossing one of the many rivers
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29

Hike two: Rangipo Hut
Two days, one night
5 km one way to Rangipo, approximately 4 hours return
Access to this section of the Round the Mountain Track is from
Desert Road, via the Waihohonu Track (a full day hike) or from the
4WD access road to Tukino Ski Field. We took the latter, and have a
new found respect for the local skiers, who drive this road to access
the ski field.
This side of the mountain is in stark contrast to our first hike, the
track for most of the way is sparce of vegetation and very exposed
to the elements. According to DOC it is the only true desert
landscape in the North Island, with features of vast plains of windswept
sands and volcanic rock.
The first significant landmark, and challenging section of this part of
the track is crossing the Whangaehu River lahar path, an area with
great historical significance in New Zealand, being responsible for
the 1953 Tangiwai Disaster. There are plenty of signs warning you
that you are in the area and they are somewhat ominous. “Do not
stop”… “Do not enter if you hear a loud roaring noise upstream.”
It does make for a rather nervous crossing, not only does it come
with some potential lahar danger, the terrain itself is also quite
challenging, with large rocks and valleys to clamber over and
under as well as a single person bridge in the middle. However, the
scenery here is spectacular, particularly the view of the mountain on
a clear day.
Although only 5km to the hut, the terrain is varied with lots of ups
and downs. The trail is largely unformed but well-marked, mostly
rocky with large tracks of fine scoria, making our poles invaluable.
Rangipo Hut is a serviced 20 bunk hut facing east and sitting at an
altitude of 1556m. It’s perched on the southern edge of the desert
looking out to the Kaimanawa Mountains and Desert Road. The
positioning of this hut offers impressive sunrises on a clear morning,
worth getting up early for, and a vast night sky. Reading the hut
book, with tales of stormy nights and blizzard conditions, it reminded
us that clear weather is not always a guarantee.
"Extreme lahar risk, next 400m.
Do not stop in this area.
Do not proceed past here if you
hear a loud roaring noise upriver"
If you are lucky enough to get great weather, you can climb the
rocky outcrop directly behind the hut, and the mountain will reveal
itself.
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Insert left page: Rangipo Hut / Above: Crossing the Whangaehu River lahar path
Above left: Warning, warning, move throught this area quickly! / Right: Stopping for a quick snack once we were clear of danger
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31

Sidewalks: Waihianoa River Gorge.
About 45 minute further on from the Rangipo Hut
you come across the Waihianoa Gorge, one of the
mountain’s largest valleys. It’s an impressive sight;
it is steep (it drops nearly 200m in just over 300m
and climbs another 150m) and the ground uneven
to say the least. It’s bleak, exposed and somewhat
intimidating and makes you realise the force of
nature. It takes approximately an hour to cross what
is referred to by some as “the Grand Canyon,” which
upon seeing I can understand why.
One of the advantages of visiting as a day trip was
that we did not need to cross as we were heading
back at to the Rangipo Hut, so we were able to
explore at our own comfort and appreciate the
grandeur from up high.
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"The beauty of these two hikes was that we could access two
very contrasting environments on Mt Ruapehu, enjoying some
of the highlights of the Round the Mountain track, within a short
period of time. This also meant we were able to take advantage
of a small weather window for each hike."
Above: Waihianoa River Gorge, one of the mountain's largest valleys - see if you can spot the swing bridge in the valley floor below.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33

PACKRAFTING
Aoraki/Mt Cook
By Jody Direen
There was no better time to book my first trip to
Mount Cook Village.
At a time when the Hooker and Tasman Valleys
would typically be sprawling with tourists from all
over the world exploring the majestic lands that
lay below Mount Cook – instead, the odd group
of New Zealanders (like me) were about, filling up
their adventure cup in their homeland. It was hard
to see mostly empty cafes, carparks, hotel rooms
and businesses downsized. But I was grateful for
the opportunity to explore the true heart of the
Southern Alps with its sub-alpine hikes and glacial
lakes with my partner Barny Young and a couple
of our good friends without competing for carpark,
café, track and view point space. Now knowing how
accessible and mind-blowing this place is I can only
imagine how busy it must get in peak season, when
international borders are open.
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35

After previously postponing our mid-winter adventure
to Mount Cook due to a bad weather outlook, we
finally set off from my parent’s house in Wanaka on
a crisp mid-July morning, picked up a pair of snow
chains and headed for the mighty land. We knew we
had at least one or two days of fine weather before
snow was forecast on our four-day escape. We were
fine with this because it meant we would get the best
of both worlds; fine sunny days to hike high and Mount
Cook village in full snow mode – yes please!
I used to drive the road between Wanaka and
Christchurch a lot but since relocating to Franz Josef
Glacier on the West Coast over two years ago, this
might have been my third trip through the Lindas Pass
and boy did it put on a show! Laden with glistening
snow, it was a picturesque blue bird day and I knew
we were in for a treat. I couldn’t wait to set my eyes on
Cook.
We turned off the main highway onto the dead end
and famously photographed road that leads to the
base camp of Mount Cook. Finally, I was in my own
un-trodden travel zone and it felt good. The road
meandered along beside high-country stations with
the occasional homestead, woolsheds, shearers
and shepherds houses on one side and Lake Pukaki
casting its ice-blue waters up towards the headland on
the other – a glorious drive.
Out of nowhere we pop up and over a rise and there
she goes – you definitely can’t miss it – the sheer
magnitude and beauty of Mount Cook is breathtaking.
And we were still a fifteen-minute drive from the
village, the sense of adventure kicks in.
Our hiking packs are ready to roll - full with our
Kokopelli pack-rafts from Pack raft New Zealand,
extra wool layers, hat, gloves, balaclava, dry-suit, first
aid essentials, food, water, life jacket and paddles. It’s
10am so our plan is to bee-line for the Hooker Valley
carpark - hike to Hooker Lake and pack raft with the
sleeping monsters (icebergs) or possibly paddle up
the lake to the Hooker Glacier terminal.
Previous page: Jody Direen and Clarissa Turner enjoy the spectacular Hooker lake from a new perspective.
Above: A sunset float on lake Tasman is well worth adding to the adventure bucket list.

The track is wide and well groomed (although it was icy in
places) and almost impossible to get lost. I wore my hiking
boots but in hindsight wish I opted for my lighter Salomon
trail runners - the ground is so even. The track twists and
turns and gently undulates. There are three impressive
swing bridges to cross – these were track highlights for
me! The rivers flowing underneath are full of energy and
excitement because with each one you know you are
getting closer to the source. It took 40 minutes to hike in
with reasonably heavy packs (allow perhaps one hour).
The track reaches a high point just as the full landscape
of Hooker Lake comes into focus. The Hooker Glacier can
be seen creeping up the mountain in the far distance and
the icebergs float effortlessly, dotted randomly around the
lake. The mothership that is Mount Cook hovers like a
giant. The moment cultivates a feeling of scared respect
for our mountains. The overwhelming size and presence of
the surrounding alps as well as the ‘knowing’ of lives lost
beyond where we are gives way to the realization of how
vulnerable we are as humans. This is their home, not ours.
We just have to hope that when we venture deeper than
the well-groomed tracks like Hooker Lake, we are met with
favorable conditions.
If you’re looking to access one of the most beautiful,
unique, yet isolated places you’ve ever seen on foot with
the least amount of physical effort and time investment -
the Hooker Valley track is it. To put this into perspective, on
the West Coast, it would take an advanced multi-day hiking
mission to access an ice-lake with similar characteristics.
Lucky for us, we didn’t have to paddle far off-shore to get
a closer look at the seemingly peaceful ice bergs. The lake
is longer than we imagined so we decide to leave the ‘full
length of the lake paddle’ for summer. It’s prudent to have
plenty of daylight hours up your sleeve when exploring the
full length of the lake. This is because typically ice lakes
are lined with unstable moraine walls which can collapse
at any moment therefore once you’re in the middle of the
lake, to get back to land you really want to paddle back to
the put in (as opposed to the side which might be the closer
option). If a head wind comes up, this may take longer
than you planned. In case you’re planning on giving this
adventure a go and integrating pack rafting into your Mount
Cook trip, I should give you the safety brief.
"The perspective from the water
of the surrounding nature is
outstandingly different than when
you are limited to land."
Hypothermia is likely on the water if you are not prepared
with the correct clothing - a dry suit is a must. The water
temperature sits around 2 to 3 degrees and if you fall out its
important you know how to self-rescue. There is risk of ice
falling off the glacier terminal at any time which can cause
waves down the lake. Similarly, icebergs can roll at any
time and cause a huge amount of energy and water force
up from deep under (enough to flip a boat) therefore a safe
distance needs to be kept.
Safety brief over.
It’s achievable for anyone with outdoor experience and
common sense to explore close lying bergs from the put
in (just like we did) and oh my, is it worth it. I can’t quite
put into words the feeling within when having a close
encounter with an ice berg, but I’ll give it a go. Surreal yet
grounding. An enlightening and I want to say… almost
spiritual experience, one I could not have had if I didn’t
have my trusty Kokopelli pack raft to explore at a new level.
The perspective from the water of the surrounding nature is
outstandingly different than when you are limited to land.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//37

We spent 40 minutes paddling around the ice bergs, taking it
all in. Barny even run a class III rapid on a river releasing from
Hooker Lake. Before long, the sun started to cast shadows so
we packed up, hiked out and checked into Aoraki Court Motel.
Accommodation wise, we wanted a touch of luxury to return to
after our daily activities and after reading reviews we narrowed
the options down to the Hermitage Hotel or Aoraki Court
Motel. The Aoraki Court Motel had better reviews and was
better value so we chose that. In doing so we sacrificed views
of Mount Cook for views of Mount Sefton and it was worth
it. The views were exceptional - it felt like we were the only
dwelling in the valley plus we had a bigger room, a full-sized
spa tub and our own kitchen so we could cook - winning!
That evening we planned to do a sunset paddle on Tasman
Lake so we set off at 3pm. After a 30-minute hike we arrived to
crystal clear reflections and WAY more icebergs than we ever
imaged to see in one body of water in New Zealand. We had
heard there had recently been a major glacial carving off of the
Tasman terminal face and they had all floated down to the putin
end of the lake. Well, they were right! We spotted a couple
of bigger bergs around 1km up the lake so we decided we
would venture a little further out than what we did at Hooker.
It was definitely cold at that time of the day and a layer of
ice started to freeze on my pack-raft which was un-nerving
however it didn’t lose any inflation (we spent time blowing
them up whilst they were in the water to ensure they were at
full capacity in the cold environment before paddling off). I was
thankful that the water running down my paddle froze before it
reached my hands as we floated towards our goal.
We worked hard to reach the destination and after 15 minutes
we arrived. These ice bergs made the ones on Hooker look
like popsicles. It was an incredible experience being out there
on sunset. Complete silence, stillness and peace eludes
you yet you know that in any moment that could change
because of the incredibly unstable environment we are in.
The odd crack could be heard and although you would deem
an iceberg to be not-living, somehow there was life. We are
sitting almost in the middle of the lake and as my toes start to
go numb - I call it, time to head back to shore.
I’m excited to get back to Mount Cook. It is a special place
and I hope that every Kiwi and person that visits New Zealand
gets to experience what we did. I deem it impossible to make
memories at Mount Cook you will forget. I recommend adding
the new dimension of an ultra-light pack-raft to experience
all the area has to offer from the water-level perspective
as well as on land. Waiver; do not attempt this with a $99
rubber ducky from The Warehouse! If you’re thinking about
purchasing a pack-raft I highly recommend the Kokopelli
Rogue R-Deck from Pack-raft New Zealand. I love mine and
take it on most hiking adventures – it allows me to explore
alpine lakes, cross rivers that would otherwise be dangerous
on foot, float down chill rivers (after hiking up) – although
some of their pack-rafts are rated up to class IV whitewater if
that’s more your thing! They even make for a great sleeping
mattress!
Adventure is endless in New Zealand when you integrate a
pack-raft into your kit.
Above: Barny couldn't resist the urge to paddle a couple of rapids flowing out of Hooker lake.
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

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TAMATEA
DUSKY SOUND
In the footsteps of Cook
By Vicki Knell
In early July 2020 we received this message from our good mate Bob -
‘We’re doing it!...wanna come too? Chopper into Dusky...play and explore...passage up to Breaksea
and Doubtful...get some stories...connect with magic NZ...exit via Lake Manapouri 5 days 4 nights...
ditch the pre xmas madness https:www.wildfiordland.co.nz
There was no hesitation, we were in boots and all. We felt privileged to be included in the group of
10 Bob was putting together and very lucky to have the resources to afford the trip - it’s not cheap
but we knew it was going to be one of those trips of a lifetime and it was worth every penny.
Little did I know that I would lose my Dad in November, a month before our December departure
date, making this trip all the more poignant. Even though he wasn’t joining us, looking at maps of
Dusky Sound and pouring over the Wild Fiordland website I think Dad had been just as excited as
we were about our upcoming adventure.
Our trip began at the Fiordland Helicopters Te Anau hangar. Here we met with Fiona Lee - one of
the owners of Wild Fiordland with 20+ years living and working in Fiordland and Kim Hollows, owner
and pioneering pilot of Fiordland Helicopters. We were entering the realm of Fiordland legends.
The excitement among our team was palpable - who doesn’t love a helicopter flight and what a way
to start the trip! Armed with last minute instructions from Fi and having been introduced to Scotty
Milsted who was to be one of our guides for the next 5 days, we loaded up into 2 choppers.
The flight took us over Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri and with clear weather we were treated to
extensive views of the Manapouri hydroelectric power project. We also got a close look at mountain
ranges including the Dingwall, Merrie, Kilcoy and Braan. Spiralling down into Supper Cove and the
mouth of the Seaforth River it was hard to see where we were going to land as dense bush reached
right down to the water. The skill of the pilots meant we were able to land on a wooden platform no
larger than the size of a beach towel!.

Out in the bay sat Breaksea Girl, at 60 ft this steel ketch was to
provide ample space both above and below deck for our group
of 10. We met skipper and co-owner of Wild Fiordland, Brian
Humphrey, and immediately felt we were in good hands - Brian
is a marine engineer with 10 + years experience sailing in and
around the Sounds. Breaksea Girl is very obviously his and Fi’s
pride and joy. We were also introduced to Kim Reichle who was
not only an amazing chef but shared a wealth of knowledge and
personal experience of NZ flora and fauna with us during our 5
days together. A canadian with a kiwi heart.
Supper Cove was really turning it on for us - not a breath of
wind and the sun was out in full force - so the late morning was
spent exploring the Seaforth River in sea kayaks and making
the most of the fine weather with the traditional leap from the top
deck roof into the cold sound waters. In the afternoon we set off
leaving Supper Cove and cruising the 9 Fathoms Passage, Paget
Passage around the Useless Islands into the Basin where we
anchored for our first night. Looking at a map does not give a true
indication of the vastness of Dusky nor the number of islands,
inlets, bays or coves. At every turn we were treated to scenery
that was mind blowing and a growing sense of how this place
could get under your skin was becoming more apparent.
Our next 4 days were spent exploring the many gems that Dusky
offers. One of the highlights was landing on the hallowed ground
of Pigeon Island at Richard Henry Landing. Little evidence
remains of New Zealand's first wildlife ranger's habitation.
However, with the knowledgeable guidance of Scotty, the story
of Richard Henry, his life on Pigeon Island and the exploits of
the curator and caretaker of Resolution Island beginning in
1894, came to life. Having just cruised the surrounding waters
we developed immense admiration for the resilience Richard
Henry had for the back and forth sailing of his dinghy Putangi.
From 1894 for the next 14 years Henry single-handedly moved
well over 700 birds including roa, kiwi, and kākāpo. He released
most of them onto Resolution Island and Five Fingers Peninsula.
Sadly his efforts ended in despair when stoats swam to the
islands in 1900. He would surely be heartened now, to witness
the successful work undertaken by the Kākāpo Recovery Team
on Anchor Island.
Taking the tender into Pickersgill Harbour and landing to walk
into Astronomer Point was also a highlight. With rata branches
hanging out over the water we could imagine Cook's ship
Resolution backed into the cove and pulled alongside. Notes from
Lieutenant Pickersgill record his finding of this anchorage - ‘After
getting into this passage we opened one of the most inchanting
little Harbours I ever saw; it was surrounded with high Lands
intirely cover’d with tall shady trees rising like an amphitheatre;
and with the sweet swelling Notes of a number of Birds made the
finest Harmony.’
Kim had previously spent time with the Kākāpo Recovery Team
as a volunteer so it was such a pleasure to land on Anchor Island
and venture into Kākāpo country hearing about her first hand
experiences with these delightful and very special taonga. The
walk in from Luncheon Cove to Lake Kirirua took us through bush
with a pre-historic feel and while highly unlikely, the possibility of
coming across a rare Kākāpo was enough to fill us with a quiet air
of anticipation.
Back on board every meal was a culinary delight - the seafood
provided by Scotty’s efforts included crayfish and paua all cooked
to perfection by Kim. Of note is the conservation code adhered
to by Brian. Fi and their crew who operate under a ‘no take-out’
policy with respect to fishing and ultimately practise the ethos of
‘protect and preserve’. Only ever enough kai moana is gathered
to have a feed on that day.
From Dusky we ventured out past Breaksea Island, up the west
coast and into Doubtful Sound. After our last night together we
made our farewells to the crew of Breaksea Girl and headed back
to Te Anau via a bus ride and boat trip across Lake Manapouri.
Our 5 days on Breaksea Girl had been the elixir everyone in our
group of 10 was after. In the footsteps of Cook and his crew we
too ate like kings, got out for decent walks, enjoyed evenings
around the guitar, shared stories, read and at times just sat and
soaked up the surrounding beauty. We came away with a greater
appreciation for Dusky Sound / Tamatea - it’s conservation story
and fascinating history. A very kiwi trip of a lifetime - Dad would
have loved it.
Previous page: The tiny landing platform at Supper Cove - our arrival point in Dusky Sound
Above: Dusky Sound in all its beauty
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Inserts top row: Wet Jacket Arm, Moanauta - where waterfalls, misty skies and thousand metre tops converge. / Breaksea Girl - our home for
the next 5 days / The team ready to load outside Fiordland Helicopters Te Anau hangar
Bottom row: Soaking up the sun and the never-ending views on the front deck / More crayfish anyone / Pickersgill Harbour - in the footsteps of
the Resolution crew.

SUMMIT UP
Sunset on Mt Ruapehu
Words by Paige Hareb, Images by Lauren Murray
Being an avid skier and snowboarder
since I could walk, I’ve always loved
the mountains but as I grew older
and became a pro surfer to follow
the summer around the world for the
past 14+ years, I naturally spent less
and less time in the snowy hills. So
something that I’ve had on my bucket
list since I was a young tacker, now at
the ripe old age of 31, I finally ticked the
Ruapehu summit off.

T’was Labour weekend, the last weekend that Mount
Ruapehu could possibly be open before the end of
the snow season. Lauren and I were heading there
no matter what to try and make the most of a skimpy
snow season in between weather and yip, you guessed
it, Covid levels. We were just hoping for the classic
dodgy, four seasons in one day forecast to be wrong.
To begin our great weekend mission, we drove halfway
up Tukino field and decided to spend our very first night
in our brand new Kiwi Camping tent 1200m+ above
sea level. The 4WD road up felt like we were on a true
adventure and waking up to desert-like views, no wind
and the sun shining; we instantly knew today was the
day!
Lauren Murray, a professional Adventure photographer
who had also just finished her avalanche safety course
was all in for this adventure with me. Feeling super
confident with my skiing skills, I had done minimal
hiking and mountaineering so did still feel a little like a
fish out of water. Or should I say I felt like a surfer out of
the ocean. Lauren’s confidence and ‘go-get-em’ attitude
made me more comfortable about this mission ahead
of us. The only downfall about going with a professional
photographer is they have a sh*t load of cameras and
camera gear to carry but as you can see, it was well
worth it for the photos we did get.
As well as cameras, we made sure we were extra
prepared. Growing up with Mt Taranaki in my backyard,
I’ve seen all its flaws and heard of many hikers getting
caught out because of the weather conditions changing
within minutes or lack of gear. So with that in the back
of my mind, we packed many thermal layers and
jackets. As well as three sets of crampons (I had a set
that fit my ski boots and a set that fit my hiking boots).
Ice axes, snacks, as well as a gas canister to boil some
water for our new favourite lightweight hiking food;
a delicious vegetarian spaghetti bolognese made by
LocalDehy.
We had heard mixed reports of whether Whakapapa
or Turoa was the easiest way to get to the summit.
After a couple of days snowboarding at Turoa during
the season, we decided to head to Whakapapa purely
because we hadn’t been to that side this year. I’m so
glad we decided that side though because apparently
the gradient isn’t as steep as the Turoa side and
because I chose to skin up on my skis, it made it way
easier. Lauren hiked the whole way in her crampons.
Both great options. Before heading up we tried to do
some research and studied a topographic map and
talked to the Whakapapa Ski Patrol to plan our route
up.
Hopping off the highest West T-bar at about 3:30pm we
began our trek up and over the glacier knob ridge and
towards the dome. After multiple stops for breathtaking
views, snacks, layering clothes and facetiming friends
halfway up the mountain, we finally thought we were
there. Well, Lauren thought we were there. With a
disappointed tone in her voice she said “Yip, this must
Previous page: Paige at the summit
Inserts left: Paige chose to skin up in her skis / Insert right: Lauren hiked in her crampons
Right: Lauren working her magic

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//47

e it but it’s just still frozen over”. I’m not sure if she was
delirious after hiking for two hours with a 10kg+ backpack
but I almost believed it too. In my head I was thinking, I
can’t have hiked all this way to not even really see it. We
questioned our route up and had actually accidentally got
side-tracked, veering to the left and going around the dome
instead of up and over it. We ended up above the summit
plateau, which to be fair, could quite possibly pass as a big
frozen lake or crater. With sunset nearing, we both became
adamant that we had to keep exploring to find the reason we
were up there in the first place. 400 metres further, just over
and around a little hill, with the light going golden we had
finally made it to the crater!
With relief that we had not only made it to the top, but more
importantly in time for Lauren to work her magic with the
light and her cameras. After admiring our location, devouring
our snacks and LocalDehy dinner we still hadn’t finished our
adventure. We raced the sun as it was quickly setting and
nearly 8:30pm with us on top of Mt Ruapehu. With nerves and
excitement we strapped our snowboard and skis to our feet
and started cautiously skiing down the mountain hooting and
hollering with one another with a couple of stops to appreciate
that we were the only two people on the entire mountain
crazy enough to ski down by a phone torch. We managed
to ski over three quarters of the way down before the spring
snow changed to a rocky mountain trail. Quickly changing
from ski boots to hiking boots and now carrying the extra
weight of our skis, snowboard and boots; it was now pitch
black but it was luckily a perfect starry night that made the
last 30 minute trek down nicer but definitely not easier.
Making it back to our car at just after 9pm we were completely
exhausted but so high on an adrenaline rush. We talked
about it for days! To summit up (pun intended) both ticking it
off our bucket list but we already want to do it all again!
Top: Not a bad spot for dinner
Inserts top to bottom: Our delicious dinner from Local Dehy - The first night in our new Kiwi Camping tent 1200m+ above sea level
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ROLLAWAY

THE DUNSTAN TRAIL
More than just amazing engineering
A lot has been written about the development of the Dunstan Trail and the canter-levered tracks that
suspend over Lake Dunstan. However there was so much more to this bike track than a marvel of
engineering.
Despite Covid disrupting travel for many in the country, the Dunstan has already recorded a record
number of visitors since it opened in May 2021, all keen to enjoy either all, or part of the 57km trail.
Beginning in Smiths Way, Cromwell, the trail follows the Clutha River arm of Lake Dunstan into old
Cromwell town then circles the Kawerau River arm out towards Bannockburn before turning south east
towards Clyde. Although a grade two ride most of the way, with some grade 2-3, this is no “easy” trail.
The path is narrow in places and with numerous blind corners and steep drops to the river below, it does
offer a challenge for the more adventurous.
Having flown into Queentown for a quick visit, we hired bikes from Bike It Now! in Clyde. We drove out
to their headquarters where we were fitted with our bikes before being driven back into Cromwell to start
the ride. The trail actually starts at Smiths Way and bikes through Pisa Moorings towards Cromwell. It’s
a flat (grade 1) 16km ride alongside the river with the highway on one side, however we missed this part
and began at Old Cromwell village, meaning we had just over 40km ride ahead of us.
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Cromwell to Bannockburn Inlet: 7km, grade 2
The trail wove along the banks of the river, lush with trees and vegetation; this
section an easy meander along well formed trails. As we neared Bannockburn,
we crossed under the bridge, and evidence of the areas wineries became
visible as we biked alongside vineyards and olive groves. Make sure you give
yourself plenty of time as there are numerous places you can stop along the
way. Unfortunately it was still rather early in the morning for a wine, and also
rather early in the ride.
Bannockburn Inlet to Cairnmuir Gully: 11.3km, grade 2-3
We reluctantly biked past Carrick Winery and onto the other side of Lake
Dunstan and back towards Cromwell. As you turn away from Cromwell towards
Clyde, the terrain becomes wild and stark, and this is where the engineering
becomes evident.
On the Dunstan Trail, looking out towards Clyde
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51

The trail is either hanging from the rock, cut into
the rock or cut right through it. The banks are stark
except for an abundance of wild thyme and the
ever present lupins clinging to the rocks. Along this
section you will notice (if you keen an eye out) for
the drainage tunnels (there are 13 of them) that were
drilled into the hillside in the mid 1990’s in attempt to
alleviate landslips into the Clutha River. You will know
when you reach the gully as this is where you’ll find
the coffee and burger barges moored up against the
side of the trail, a welcome sight.
Cairnmuir Gully to Halfway Hut: 8.4km, grade 2-3
We eased our way past the crowds at the coffee
stop towards the Cairnmuir Ladder, an aptly
named section of the track that if it wasn’t for the
switchbacks, would require a near vertical climb.
Although you may feel like grinding it out to the top,
make sure you take time to stop and enjoy the view
halfway up, it’s also the perfect excuse to take a
breather. From here you can see most of the trail you
have ridden along as well as the stonework faces of
the Cairnmuir slide that was built to protect the river
from a major landslide. The top of this section is the
highest point on the track so the ride down was loads
of fun. Towards the bottom we crossed Hugo Bridge,
a narrow swing bridge traversing the gorge below.
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Above: Hartley Bridge Bluff
Left hand page from top left: Hugo Bridge / Micah taking note of the warning signs
Cairnmuir Ladder, a series of switchbacks making for an easier ascent
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//53

Halfway Hut to Dunstan Arm Rowing Club: 10.7km,
grade 2-3
We thought we had completed the major climb on the ride
but after halfway hut the trail climbed again, this time without
the aid of the switchbacks. Luckily once you reached the
peak, the ride was downhill again all the way to the edge
of the lake where there were plenty of places to stop and
have a swim or just picnic beside the lake. Although we were
eager to race ahead at this point, the trail was narrow in
places and it was a balancing act between letting it rip and
proceeding with caution.
The rest of the ride followed an undulating track along the
river until we reached the Dunstan Arm Rowing Club and the
Clyde Dam, NZ’s third largest hydro dam.
Dunstan Arm Rowing Club to Clyde Heritage Precinct:
3.5km, grade 1
The ride back into Clyde was along the roadside past the
lower reaches of the dam and into what is considered “old
Clyde”. It had been an incredible day, the temperature had
hit the 30’s and we had been wowed with the variety on the
trail and the views along the way. We finished the day with a
well deserved ice cold beer in the tavern next door to Bike It
Now! A perfect end to a perfect day.
The Dunstan trail offered a real variety
in both terrain and scenery and should
be on everone's to do list.
The trail can be completed in either
direction but after speaking to someone
who had biked it both ways, they
recommended starting in Cromwell
and finishing in Clyde. We found that
most of the people on the track were
biking in that direction so the chance
of running into people biking the other
way was less, however for safety sake
it is imperative to “keep left” while biking
when visibility is limited.
Above: Looking back towards Cromwell, you can see the stonework faces of the Cairnmuir slide, which was designed to protect the river
from a major land slide, which could overwhelm the Clyde Dam, a short distance downstream.
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Reviews from
millions of Tripadvisor
travellers place this
attraction in the top
10% worldwide.
Come cycling in
stunning Central Otago
and let the experts look
after all your needs.
> Lake Dunstan Trail
> Otago Central Rail Trail
> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail
and more...
Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366
Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days
Cromwell Bike Shop open 6 days Monday to Saturday
www.bikeitnow.co.nz
Tripadvisor
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CLUTHA
MATA-AU
RIVER 172km by bike
Central Otago rapidly became a bucket list
destination for cyclists after the opening of the
iconic Otago Central Rail Trail in 2000. Since
then, a number of new bike trails have popped
up in the region, meaning there’s now even
more reason to visit. The following four trails
can be combined for 172km of stunning riding
along the winding banks and mighty gorges of
Central Otago’s Clutha Mata-au River.
ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL: This trail is one of Central Otago’s
most visually spectacular rides. Scattered with remnants of the
gold rush, you’ll head deep into the remote Roxburgh Gorge
from Alexandra to the Lake Roxburgh Hydro Dam. To ride the full
trail, you’ll enjoy a jet boat transfer between Doctors Point and
Shingle Creek. Distance: 21km + 12km jet boat transfer
CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL: The Clutha Gold Trail continues along the
emerald waters of the Clutha Mata-au river and along an old branch
railway line to Lawrence. Brimming with gold mining history, this
easy trail is the perfect way to immerse yourself in the stunning rural
and riverside scenes of Central Otago’s Teviot Valley.
Distance: 73km
LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL: The new trail on the block, the
Lake Dunstan Trail weaves it’s way along the shores of Lake
Dunstan from Smith’s Way to Cromwell’s Heritage Precinct.
It then heads through Bannockburn’s wine country and into
the remote Cromwell Gorge before finishing in the quaint
township of Clyde. Distance: 55km
ALEXANDRA TO CLYDE RIVER TRACK (Millennium Trail)
Popular with locals, this sheltered trail follows the true right of the
river, joining Clyde and Alexandra. Mainly single-track with some
small undulations and boardwalks, it’s a great alternative to the first
section of the Otago Central Rail Trail. Distance: 12km
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58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

AN AQUATIC
ADVENTURE
The art of fly fishing
Words by Steve Dickinson - Images by Lynne Dickinson
My earliest memories are fishing with my dad on English rivers, catching coarse
fish like roach, rudd and perch. We then moved to New Zealand, and I soon
discovered the joy of sea fishing and I still love it today. But twenty years ago we
bought a property on the banks of the Tongariro river, and I was introduced to
trout fishing.
Trout fishing is not like any other fishing, the results are often small and modest
by comparison to other fishing. Yet there is so much to learn and understand
and it is more like hunting than fishing, it’s more of an adventure.
New Zealand both North and South Islands are intertwined with a plethora of
available trout streams, rivers, dams and lakes. There are numerous websites
and books that outline where the most accessible are and how to access them.
There is nothing more exciting than driving up to a river access not really
knowing what to expect. Some rivers are right there, others you have to tramp
sometimes for days to get to. (It is important if you are crossing private land to
ask permission).
Recently a mate and I smashed through bracken and up a small goat track for
what seemed hours following the hardly used trail not really sure if we were
going in the right direction. Then as we crossed a low ridge line, we looked down
on a crystal-clear river on a large bend no deeper than a foot. And we could see
the silhouettes of the trout from where we looked down. We approached the
river ‘stealthy’; these big boys don’t get to hear a lot of footfalls. On the sandy
bank for as far as you could see in both directions you could not see a footprint,
not a sign of mankind. As per our custom we sat, we watched, and we whispered
rather than just jumping straight in. Just using our go to flash back peasant tail,
and keeping a low profile while casting, first cast big rainbow, second cast big
rainbow, third cast big brown. Catching the fish is the bonus and it does not
always work out so well, but when it does come together there is nothing like it.
I am no tramper, I find it boring, but if you add trout fishing to that I’ll happily
spend all day walking the banks of a river casting a fly, hunting the fish for
kilometres. It is so much less about gathering food (but trout do taste good if
cooked correctly) but it is more about the experience, more often than not I find
myself sitting on the bank just looking at what an amazing place we live in, and it
is right on our front door.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//59

My dad used to tell me to slowdown when fishing, typically you’d
catch a fish and rush to pull it in. He would say “this is what you
have been waiting for all day now enjoy it, take you time”. With fly
fishing it’s not just the catching it’s the whole adventure experience. I
recently went out on to some back water with a friend who was once
a full-time guide. We split up he caught and/or lost about fifteen fish,
whereas I caught and/or lost five. As we sat on the bank at the end
of the beat, he said, “you need to slow down”, he told me, “you need
to spend more time on each section, don’t rush through so quick and
your hit rate will go up.” The next day I did just that and he was 100%
correct. But slowing down is what adventure fly fishing is about. You
are not burleying up and simply cranking in big snapper. You are
out in the whole experience from the planning to the travel, to the
discovery, to the environment and then hopefully a few fish.
It does not always work out but the more effort you go to to find
somewhere a bit more remote the better the hit rate. Fish do not
really like people, sure at times you will look down and there will
be one swimming by your boot, but a good example is my
local river the Tongariro, during the last level 4 lock down.
Within a week (because no one was fishing) the numbers in
the shallows doubled, then tripled and as soon as you could
fish for them again – they went back to their normal holding
patterns.
You can pull up to a river get out and stand in the same spot
all day and you will have fun; you will catch fish. BUT you will
also be missing the experience of adventure fly fishing, it is
like having a three-course meal instead of just nibbling on the
entrée.
If you are going to adventure fly fish, you need to gear up for
it. The big heavy, neoprene waders are great for the cold local
rivers, as long as you are not walking too far or having to climb
over stuff. The super cheap plastic waders are thin and light
weight but tend to be uncomfortable, hot and hard to walk in.
If you intend to adventure fish, then invest a pair of lightweight
quality waders and they will make the whole experience a lot
more fun. The second major bit of gear is your boots. These
are more like hiking boots compared to the neoprene waders
and easy to walk in and safer. There are hundreds of options,
material style and sole type. Personally I have been using the
Patagonia River Salt Wading Boots with Vibram® Megagrip
sole a compound specially developed for grip on both wet and
dry surfaces some people add studs, I don’t as a lot of places I
fish have hard round stones which tend to make you slip. The
rest of your gear is about the conditions, rain, sun, wind, and
also where you are going.
Like any hike make sure you tell people where you are
going do not rely on cell phone coverage as it is not always
available. There are a few excellent safety kits on the market
which are a good idea in case of an emergency.
My last piece of advice is enjoy. Its not always about catching
the fish, its about where you are, who you are with (even if you
are alone), and the simple joy of being outside.
Previous page: Fishing on my local, the Tongariro River
Top: One of the joys is finding a hidden gem / Insert: The other joy is catching (and most times, releasing) these beautiful fish
60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

TOP NOTCH COFFEE.
BREWED ON THE GO, FOR THE BRAVE AT HEART.
MADE
IN
ADVENTURE
S H O P | E P I C C O F F E E . C O . N Z
N E W
Z E A L A N D
R E A D Y

WILD TWINS
Seeking adventures
"We like to think this book will inspire people to get out
there and adventure in this ever-increasing digital world."
Growing up on the family farm in rural Waiuku, twins, Amber and Serena Shine,
found their shared love of the outdoors early in life. After leaving school they
both trained in the army before heading the Australia to work in the mines. With
the money they earned, they travelled the world embarking on some incredible
adventures from working in a Bolivian animal sanctuary to being dog-sled tour
guides in Italy.
As with any adventurous lifestyle, it does come with its risks, and they have both
had their shares of injuries and discomforts, from extreme mosquito bites to
broken backs.
There is not a lot these ladies have not achieved; they have competed in the
world’s highest marathon on Mount Everest, walked jaguars in the Amazon,
sailed treacherous seas, navigated ice falls and raced 322 km on a dogsled.
The in 2019, the twins were approached by the makers of Naked and Afraid, an
extreme outdoor adventure (albeit naked). However, they both saw the mental
and physical challenge as something right up their alley and set off to Africa for
the show.
Their latest adventure was to write a book about their experiences, and to share
some of their most extreme achievements and the secrets behind their strength,
endurance and approach to life. “We wrote this book as over the year’s people
love hearing about our adventures and always want to hear more. Our stories
inspired people to get more out of life and we often got the comment “I am going
to bring my kids up like you” so we like to think this book will inspire people to
get out there and adventure in this ever-increasing digital world. Throughout our
adventures we kept diaries so we have an accurate account.”
Of all their adventures, their favourite and closest to heart was summiting Mount
Cook. NZ highest mountain is often a training ground for mountaineers and
the fact that it was on home soil made it all the more special. “S: Climbing Mt
Cook would be one of the more special ones being on home turf and NZ highest
mountain.”
Not all adventures are ones they want to relive. In 2015 Selena broke her back in
a snoboarding accident and was not sure she would ever be able to walk again.
“It doesn’t stop me from doing anything or limit me. However at times it does hurt
but it’s nothing to dwell on, I’m just thankful I can still do any kind of adventure
and keep fit working out.”
Amber and Serena on the Kepler Track
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"Often, the more challenging an
adventure is, the more satisfaction
you get when you have completed it. "
They have also had their share of dangerous
encounters. “The leopards, hyena’s and other
predators stalking us in the night in the African
Wilderness still sends a shiver up my spine.”
Not all their adventures have been together
but they seem to have enjoyed those ones
the most. “The majority of our adventures are
together but there are plenty we have done
apart too. We enjoy the same things, so when
we can make it work, it is a lot of fun with the
two of us adventuring together.”
“Often, the more challenging an adventure is,
the more satisfaction you get when you have
completed it. Also, just experiencing new and
different things makes every adventure unique
and keeps the adventure spirit high.”
Top to bottom: Dogsledding
Skydiving
Swimming with turtles in Hawaii
On the summit of Mt Cook
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TALKING LOCAL
Adventure Magazine
supporting local
business
CHARLIE HOBBS
The "old" mountaineer
No one knows the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park like local
guide and mountaineer Charlie Hobbs. Having lived and run
his own successful adventure guiding businesses since 1989,
his name is synonymous with the area.
We sat down with Charlie to chat about his connection to his
beloved alps, what the mountains give him, and why every
kiwi must explore this special part of Aotearoa.
"When the
mountains speak,
wise men listen."
What drew you to Aoraki/Mount Cook?
I was living in Timaru working as a tradesman in
the early 80’s, spending my weekends and spare
time in the mountains. I was working for the
Mountain Safety Council and heavily involved
with the local alpine club where I was also doing
some instructing and helping club members.
Something just clicked with me one day and,
like many others, I thought “maybe I’ll become a
guide”. I got the necessary guiding qualifications
and moved up to Aoraki/Mount Cook which then
led to numerous overseas guiding expeditions.
The natural next step from there was to establish
my own business where I could share my
passion, knowledge, and genuine love of the
area. I’ve never really looked back.
What’s kept you there?
The mountains are a spiritual place to be –
they’re beautiful, they speak to me, I love
working there. The glaciers are continually
changing and ice structures remodelling; my
office is never the same. You get up there and
there’s no one around, it’s a truly special place.
I’ve always loved the saying “when the
mountains speak, wise men listen”. You can’t
muck around in nature, you have to treat it with
respect and listen to what she has to say. I truly
believe if more people took heed of that, more
people would make it home safely.
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Glacier Explorers is just one of many experiences in the region
Tell us about the changes to the area over the years
Environmentally I’ve seen some big changes over the last few
decades. I’ve seen the glaciers recede dramatically since the
80’s – some of the smaller ones in the park have melted back
to nothing. On a slightly more positive note, there is some talk
about glacial advancements soon and cooling, so I do hold
some hope there.
The other big change is the number of visitors. In the 90’s
tourism was quite a magical time. We had a good number of
visitors - many of them kiwis - who came and really enjoyed
the Park. It was sustainable.
In the last decade we’ve seen a huge growth in numbers
– probably too much for our infrastructure. It was getting
uncomfortably busy. With the borders closed, it’s like a return
to the earlier days with distinct peak and shoulder periods, and
much more sustainable numbers. You can now head out and
enjoy some of the popular trails without the crowds. It’s a great
time for kiwis to travel.
Mass tourism wasn’t good for our local community and our
environment didn’t like it – it was putting a lot of pressure on
certain areas and it wasn’t good karmically. I’d like to see a
more balanced approach and more manageable numbers
when international visitors return.
You offer some pretty amazing Aoraki experiences…
Well in contrast to what we’ve just chatted about, my trips
are all about taking small groups to special places that very
few people can access. Whether it’s mountaineering, glacier
snow-shoeing, kayaking, heli or glacier skiing, we like to be
personalised and small.
Kayaking: We’re the only operator on the Mueller Glacier Lake
and it’s a place that people can’t walk to, and aircraft can’t fly
over. You experience a magical “quiet zone” amongst the most
incredible big vistas. On the Tasman Glacier Lake you can see
big bergs the size that you’d normally only see in the likes of
Antarctica or Alaska. You can paddle around the icebergs and
experience something pretty unique with only a small number
of people – it’s incredibly special.
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

"My trips are all about
taking small groups to
special places that very few
people can access. Whether
it’s mountaineering, glacier
snow-shoeing, kayaking, heli
or glacier skiing, we like to
be personalised and small."

Glacier Heli-Hiking and Snow Shoeing: Surprisingly, kiwis really
haven’t discovered glacier heli-hiking or snow shoeing yet. It’s
popular with international visitors but the domestic market hasn’t
really caught on to fact that you can come and experience incredible
glacial ice caves and formations without needing to know how to
ski. It’s something I’d really like to see more kiwis do. You need to
be able to walk but as most of its downhill, you don’t need to be
physically fit. It’s a fantastic day out.
Heli-skiing and glacier skiing: skiing the glacier has been popular
with kiwis for decades. It’s an incredible experience and accessible to
most intermediate skiers – the blue-green equivalent runs makes it
great for most abilities and families. The words heli-skiing tend to put
a lot of people off. They don’t realise that we can match runs to their
abilities, and you don’t have to be an expert skier. Skiing in Aoraki/
Mount Cook is an absolute bucket-list experience.
CHARLIE HOBBS
Charlie Hobbs founded and is the chief
guide for Southern Alps Guides which
holds the highest international certification
for mountain and ski guiding. Southern
Alps Guides operate small personalised
group guiding experiences in Aoraki/
Mount Cook National Park. Charlie and
his wife Mary also run the popular Old
Mountaineers Café which pays tribute to
the mountaineering history and pioneering
spirit of the region. Visit www.mtcook.com.
Local tips? What are the other must do’s in the National Park?
The magic is being outside. There are so many walks in the region
with great views of Aoraki and the glaciers. It’s an incredibly special
and unique experience – there’s nothing quite like hearing the
avalanches, particularly at lying in bed at night.
You can obviously explore the glacier in the ways we’ve discussed,
as well as by boat and 4WD. There’s a range of scenic flight
providers if you fancy something a little less active.
The DoC Visitor Centre provides an amazing history of the area. You
could spend hours in there learning what this region is about; and
The Hermitage’s Sir Edmund Hilary Centre is a must visit too. You’re
really in the elements in the National Park so it’s good to have some
places to hunker down if the weather is bad. We’re in the world’s
largest gold dark sky reserve here and The Hermitage offer a great
stargazing experience at night.
Of course, I’ll always recommend a stop in at the Old Mountaineers
Café for a bite to eat and genuine kiwi hospitality!
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

Throughout my whole career as a
professional surf photographer and more
recently in the high-end world of VIP travel
facilitation and adventure photography
showing and shooting clients wildest
adventures across the globe, I’ve always
found the time for chasing storms in
between, particularly around my own home
on the Sunshine Coast. It’s a rush, you're
completely alone and out in the elements
witnessing mother nature’s full force. I live
for chasing storms. I basically concentrate
on a small stretch of coastline where I
live smack in the middle of Noosa Heads
and Coolum in QLD. Geographically it’s a
fantastic place for summer storms as the
sub-tropical location is perfect for creating
spectacular lightning shows where the
warm waters meet cooler southern winds.
This night in particular, was a long burn to
get this shot. I went out around 6pm and
the initial storm dissipated. A secondary
storm flared up where I planned this shot
around 1am. The time in between that was
useless; that’s the hard thing is sticking it
out and not packing up. This is one thing
that I used to do each day shooting surf, I
would leave the beach on dark. You’d be
surprised how many people leave and say
when did you get that shot! “ahhh while you
were on your 3rd Bintang or thereabouts?”
The thing is with storm chasing is you can
look at lightning trackers and apps but it
never replaces local knowledge. I had a
feeling the storm would reform and head
out to sea up the coast as I’ve watched
this happen many times growing up here.
Achieving a shot where I can see the stars,
storm clouds and foreground is what I’m
always after. It just gives storms these
perspectives and magical snapshot into
what’s happening above and below. The
best thing is you never really know what
you’re going to get but you can plan to be
around the right distance and location to
achieve what’s in your brain. Of course,
a lot of trips out storm chasing produce
nothing apart from empty coffee cups and a
sandy truck.
Contact mick@mickcurleyphotography.com
Insta – mick_curley_images
72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

posure
X

Merrell Kahuna 4 Strap Men’s - Brown $219.00
This performance sandal with Vibram® rubber
traction is designed for hiking in and around water.
Easily adjustable to your foot with neoprene lining,
you’ll stay secure and comfortable.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
Merrell Hydro Moc Men’s - Black $89.00
Introducing the amphibious outcast. The long
awaited Hydro Moc is coming soon! It is formed
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techniques, making it a lightweight and comfortable
summer slip on ideal for around water.
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merrell cloud Sienna Women’s - Burlwood $189.00
The Clouds you want this summer. Lightweight,
stylish and designed for all day comfort, the Merrell
Cloud Collection with FloatEco mid-sole featuring
a zero waste process is light on your feet and for
your planet.
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SALEWA ULTRA FLEX 2 MID GORE-TEX $399.90
The Ultra Flex 2 Mid merges hiking boot protection
with the agility of a trail running shoe and is the ideal
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FIT: Wide / Weight: (M) 370 g
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SALEWA WILDFIRE leather $299.90
The Wildfire Leather is ideal for everyday use, yet
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is supported by a protective rubber rand. Underfoot,
the POMOCA® Speed MTN Path outsole has been
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contact. FIT: Standard / Weight: (M) 360 g (W) 275 g
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SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $399.90
The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather
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rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort
lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability,
and customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with
interchangeable layers allows you to adapt it to
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right to the toe allows for a more precise fit, while
the Vibram® Hike Approach outsole covers a wide
spectrum of mountain terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
Keen Big Kids' Newport H2 (Kids) $119.99
This supportive sandal can take anything a kid can dish
out. An adjustable hook-and-loop strap lets kids put them
on themselves, and quick-drying webbing is perfect in and
out of the water.
WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ
Keen Ridge Flex Waterproof Boot (Women’s) $349.99
What if every step could feel easier? Meet the e-bike
of hiking boots, built with KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX
technology to flex where you do. We took the trusted
fit of our iconic Targhee hiker and paired it with our
new KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX technology to flex
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WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ
Keen Ridge Flex Waterproof Boot (Men’s) $349.99
What if every step could feel easier? Meet the
e-bike of hiking boots, built with KEEN.BELLOWS
FLEX technology to flex where you do. We took the
trusted fit of our iconic Targhee hiker and paired it
with our new KEEN.BELLOWS FLEX technology to
flex easier and reduce the energy.
WWW.KEENFOOTWEAR.CO.NZ
74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

FOR YOUR FEET
Merrell Hydro Moc women's - mineral $89.00
A thing of beauty? The Hydro Moc is not for
everyone but it might just be for you. Arriving to
NZ this summer, this shoe is made from soft foam
using a sustainable and advanced construction
technique to create this versatile style that can go
from street to stream.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
hoka CHALLENGER ATR 6 $269.95
This adaptable, all-terrain shoe defies convention —
performing light on the trail and smooth on the street,
thanks to its midsole geometry and outsole construction.
Dynamically designed for versatile traction, its distinctive
outsole has zonal construction to optimize grip and
weight. Developed with broad, closely spaced zonal
lugs, the Challenger ATR 6’s outsole delivers smooth
transitions from one surface to another. This season’s
iteration utilizes recycled UNIFI Reprieve yarn derived
from post-consumer waste plastic.
WWW.HOKA.CO.NZ
equip
yourself!
salewa ALPENROSE 2 MID GTX $379.90
Our Alpenrose 2 Mid GORE-TEX® is a dedicated
women’s shoe with a specific, feminine design
to provide waterproof, breathable protection for
speed hiking and fast-moving mountain activities.
It has a lightweight, robust, fabric upper and a
GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort membrane. The
Pomoca speed hiking outsole offers superior
traction, it’s aggressive lugs, grooves and
sculptures perform well in a wide range of terrain
and weather conditions.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (W) 366 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90
Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes,
our lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut
boot performs well on rock and technical terrain. The
waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX® lining makes it
ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity levels in
summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.
Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
Low Prices Everyday
Free NZ Shipping on
orders over $150 for
members
hoka ANACAPA MID GTX $399.95
A sustainably crafted day-hiker designed for weekend adventures, the Anacapa
Mid GTX is a gateway to the great outdoors. Engineered from lightweight leather
certified by the Leather Working Group, the versatile silhouette employs recycled
polyester in the collar, mesh and laces. Equipped with our Achilles-cradling pull tab
and grounded in a 50% soy-based sockliner, this waterproof hiker is outfitted with
GORE-TEX footwear fabric with recycled textile to keep feet dry and comfortable in
wet conditions. An innovative style that applies HOKA extended-heel geometry trail
tested over 1,300 miles, the Anacapa Mid GTX utilizes a Vibram® Megagrip outsole
for superior traction in uneven terrain.
WWW.HOKA.CO.NZ
Members Earn Equip+
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shop online or instore
equipoutdoors.co.nz
62 Killarney Road,
Frankton, Hamilton,
New Zealand
P: 0800 22 67 68
E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz

Macpac Pertex® MTB Shorts $199.99
Fully-featured shorts designed for
every kind of off-road adventure.
Made with a durable Pertex®
Equilibrium outer and padded
detachable inner for customisable
comfort and protection from the
elements. Available in men’s and
women’s sizes.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Patagonia M’s Merino 3/4 Sleeve Bike Jersey $179.99
From the first 100% Fair Trade Certified sewn
mountain bike apparel collection, this highly breathable,
jersey works for both ends of the thermometer, wicking
moisture on hot days and providing extra coverage on
brushy or chilly descents. Made from soft RWS-certified
merino wool and recycled polyester.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ/HOLIDAY-GUIDE
RAB RAID SHORTS WOMENS $159.95
The Raid shorts are a fully featured
softshell short in lightweight Matrix
stretch double weave fabric, for trekking
and hiking. With two zipped hand pockets
and a zipped thigh pocket, these pants are
a practical, lightweight option for sunny
days in the hills.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
RAB PULSE SS TEE $79.95
Lightweight and fast drying, the Pulse SS Tee is a
versatile technical tee, ideal for multi-day climbing
and trekking trips. Designed for active use, the Pulse
SS Tee is a fast drying technical short sleeve tee with
Polygiene® STAY FRESH odour control treatment.
The Pulse SS Tee is made with lightweight Motiv
fabric and microactive low bulk seams, for strength and
softness next to skin. 30+UPF provides sun protection.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
RAB PULSE HOODY $99.95
Lightweight and fast drying, the Pulse
Hoody is a fast drying technical long sleeve
hoody with Polygiene® STAY FRESH odour
control treatment. Featuring a close-fitting
hood and high collar to protect the neck
and ears when you don’t want to wear a
hat, this lightweight layer offers protection
from the sun on long hot routes. Made with
lightweight Motiv fabric, the microactive
low bulk seams ensure strength and
softness next to the skin, combined with
30+UPF sun protection.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229
RAB MOMENTUM SHORTS $99.95
The Momentum Shorts are light and robust with a quick dry
time and full freedom of movement. From steep climbs up
jagged peaks to traversing ridges, the Momentum Shorts
are designed for covering greater distances at pace. Made
from lightweight but durable Matrix double weave fabric
they offer full freedom of movement when hiking, running
or scrambling in the mountains. Treated with a DWR these
shorts will repel water during light showers and dry quickly.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ

Patagonia W's Mibra Tank $119.99
A collaboration between climbers
and the Patagonia design team,
this tank combines active support
with comfort and mobility. In soft,
breathable recycled polyester/
spandex jersey it features a built-in
shelf bra, engineered support straps
for unencumbered movement, and is
Fair Trade Certified sewn.
(Colour: Paintbrush Red, also in
Plume Grey)
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ/
HOLIDAY-GUIDE
Outdoor Research Helium Rain Jacket $299.99
Uses Pertex® Shield with Diamond Fuse Technology to take
durable lightweight waterproof protection to a new high. The jacket
to pack when you are after shaving weight without compromising
performance. Five times more tear resistant than the Helium II and
lighter in weight, completely waterproof yet breathable and able to
be stowed in its chest pocket. Comes in men’s and women’s cut, five
sizes and multiple colours. 179g (men’s large)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Knife Edge Jacket $499.00
Add the lightweight Men’s Knife Edge Waterproof Jacket Shell to your pack
for unexpected downpours during hiking adventures. The wind-blocking,
weight-minimizing GORE-TEX® Paclite® Technology keeps you warm,
dry, and comfortable. The 100% seam-taped fabric, attached hood, and
adjustable drawstring hem will prevent leaks.
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
RAB SONIC SS ZIP TEE WOMENS $99.95
Whether used as a fast-wicking first layer or a
technical standalone mountain running top, with its
textured Motiv single jersey fabric.It uses starshaped
rather than circular yarn to increase surface
area, improving the speed at which sweat can be
drawn onto it. The regular fit, allied to the open
structure of the knit, then encourages airflow to help
quicken the drying process. The deep venting zip
on the chest is bonded into the fabric to eradicate
abrasion. With antibacterial Polygiene® odour control
and a weight of just 80g, the Women’s Sonic SS Tee
is performance-driven mountain running design at its
most effective.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Outdoor Research Helium Rain Pants $219.99
Pertex® Shield with Diamond Fuse Technology
for durable, lightweight, waterproof protection.
Able to be stowed in its back pocket. Ankle zips
allow for easy on and off and lace loops keep the
pants anchored. Available in men’s and women’s
cut and five different sizes. 189g (men’s large)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//77

lowe alpine AirZone Trail 35 $299.95
The AirZone Trail 35 features a Fixed
AirZone carry system with a breathable
back to maximise airflow and keep you
cool and comfortable. With a single
buckle entry to the main compartment
and a 35 litre capacity, there’s room for
everything for a day’s hike or trek. Upper
and lower side compression straps
add stability, and a forward pull hip belt
adjustment ensures the perfect fit.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
macpacGreat Walks Bandana $24.99
A versatile summer essential
illustrated with 10 Great Walks.
Available in two colours and made
from 100% cotton. Perfect on your
face, in your pocket, or someone’s
Christmas stocking.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
lowe ALPINE NIJMEGEN 6 $99.99
Designed to accommodate a full day on the trail, the
Nijmegen is a 6 litre belt pack featuring integrated twin
bottles for easy-access hydration. The 6 litre capacity
means there’s room for everything you need during a day’s
walking, including integrated twin bottles. A rear zipped
security pocket keeps valuables safe and zipped hip belt
pockets give easy access to essentials on the move.
WWWOUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
ospray Talon Pro 30 | Tempest Pro 28 $349.99
Heading out for a demanding day hike or light and
fast overnighter? Either way, the Talon Pro 30 |
Tempest Pro 28 is up to the challenge. Light but
tough Nanofly® fabric keeps the weight in check. An
injection-molded backpanel and continuous-wrap
harness and hipbelt move with you over challenging
terrain. This top-loading pack features a hydration
reservoir sleeve, dual zippered hip pockets and
attachment points for ice axes and trekking poles.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/OSPREY/
lowe alpine AEON 22 $249.95
The Aeon 22 is one of the most adaptable lightweight
backpacks in the Lowe Alpine range. Anatomically shaped
and adjustable, it moves with you, giving a comfortable and
stable carry for multi-use, such as hiking, running or biking.
A 22 litre backpack made with lightweight yet tough TriShield
fabric, featuring top loading main entry with lid and a spacious
lid pocket. Hydration compatible, the Aeon 22 features secure
TipGripper walking pole attachments, ice axe loops, and
double side compression for stability.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

Featuring all-new, patented FormKnit technology, the AirZone
Trek’s iconic carry system offers world-class comfort and
ventilation. Whether you’re feeling the heat on dusty tracks or
picking up the pace hut-to-hut, the AirZone Trek helps you keep
your cool.
www.rab.equipment
Available now from Lowe Alpine specialist stores throughout NZ.
Hunting and Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Waikato: Trek & Travel, Equip Outdoors,
BOP: Whakatane Great Outdoors, Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors,
Nelson: PackGearGo Kaikoura: Coastal Sports Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sportsworld,
Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet, Invercargill: Southern Adventure
Online: dwights.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz, equipoutdoors.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, mtoutdoors.co.nz, completeoutdoors.co.nz,
huntingandfishing.co.nz, smallplanetsports.com,trekntravel.co.nz, outfittersstore.nz
Distributed by: Outfitters 0800 021732
www.outfitters.net.nz

marmot Trestles 15 Sleeping Bag (-9°C)
$199.95
The Trestles 15 is a reliable allpurpose
bag for everything from
weekend camping to days on the trail.
SpiraFil LT high loft insulation, wave
construction and 3D hood keep you
warm and comfortable, while a long
list of features gives you everything
you'd expect from 40 years of crafting
sleeping bags.
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
marmot Never Winter Sleeping bag (-1°C) $499.00
The Never Winter Sleeping Bag is ideal for warmweather
camping and river trips—with added
upgrades that’ll keep you comfortable even when
you’re far from home. Its lofty 650-fill-power-down
insulation and water-resistant Down Defender
treatment will keep you warm and dry in mild
conditions. After an epic day of adventuring,
give your feet a rest in the roomy wrap-around
footbox with a heater pocket. Stretch tricot baffles
help keep the fill in place, while the nautilus
multi-baffle hood with a drawcord and full-length
two-way zipper with a draft tube limit heat loss.
If the interior gets too warm, use the fold-down
secondary zipper to get some air. Tuck small
items into the internal stash pocket.
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C
Sleeping Bag $99.99
The Mamaku Trek 0°C sleeping
bag provides exceptional
warmth on cold adventures. The
semi-tapered design features a
drawstring-adjustable contoured
hood that packs down into the
handy compression bag for easy
pack and carry.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping mamaku Pro -5°C
Sleeping Bag $109.00
The Mamaku Pro is a lightweight
-5°C sleeping bag designed for
hiking and travel adventures with
an exceptional warmth to weight
ratio. Features a semi-tapered
shape with silver thermal lining.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
exped Lite -5 Down Sleeping Bag (Medium) $599.99
A highly compressible bag made with lightweight
and refined inner and outer fabrics that feel
velvety soft, a watertight construction and highperformance,
800-loft European goose down
(540g) fill for warmth and comfort during the
night. Weighs less than a kilogram!
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

Rab ALPINE PRO 200 RIGHT ZIP SLEEPING
BAG $599.95
Designed for summer bivis and
lightweight multi-day trips, the Alpine
Pro 200 is a mid-weight down-filled
sleeping bag that expertly balances
warmth, weight and comfort. The
Alpine Pro 200 offers protection and
warmth at a minimum weight and
pack size. Its mummy taper shape is
roomy and comfortable, using durable
and water-resistant Pertex® Quantum
Pro, the Alpine Pro 200 is hand filled
in Derbyshire with 650FP ethically
sourced European Duck Down.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Rab MYTHIC ULTRA 180 SLEEPING BAG $1,199.95
The Mythic Ultra 180 redefines what it
means to be ‘ultralight’. Using a worldfirst,
heat-reflective fabric treatment called
Thermo Ionic Lining Technology, this is
premium protection for those counting every
last gram.
The award-winning Mythic Ultra 180 is one
of the world’s most advanced lightweight
sleeping bags. Though constructed with
an exceptionally light ripstop 7D outer and
filled with high-loft 900+ fill power European
goose down. Weighing just 400g, the Mythic
Ultra 180 is the ultimate expression of
performance without penalty.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Macpac Dusk 400 Down Sleeping Bag $499.99
Perfect if you’re looking to step into your first
down sleeping bag, we designed the Dusk
to include everything you need to get out
and explore. Both the outer and lining fabrics
are recycled and bluesign® certified. The
outer has a woven-through ripstop for added
protection, and 410g of 600 loft HyperDRY
RDS duck down provides cosy warmth.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
marmot Sawtooth Sleeping Bag (-9°C) $599.00
The Sawtooth 15° Sleeping Bag blends just the
right down warmth with just the right weight, plus
a healthy measure of durability for all-around
performance. Its lofty 650-fill-power-down
insulation and water-resistant Down Defender
treatment will keep you warm and dry. After an
epic day of adventuring, give your feet a rest in
the roomy wrap-around footbox with a heater
pocket for added comfort. Stretch tricot baffles
help keep the fill in place, while the nautilus
multi-baffle hood with a drawcord and full-length
two-way zipper with a draft tube limit heat loss.
If the interior gets too warm, use the fold-down
secondary zipper to get some air. Tuck small
items into the internal stash pocket.
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
Macpac Aspire 360 Synthetic
Sleeping Bag $249.99
Aspire 360s are our warmest
synthetic sleeping bags. Suited
to camping in wet conditions,
perfect on road trips and holidays
at the beach, and able to provide
comfort in temperatures below
freezing. Their tapered relaxed
mummy shape balances warmth
with comfort, the nylon ripstop
outer fabric is treated with a water
resistant finish, and two layers of
recycled microfibre help to keep
you cosy.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//81

jetboil STASH Cooking System $299.95
The Lightest and Most Compact
Jetboil Ever. We know your dreams
are big and ambitious. Which is why
we designed the all-new Stash to be
lightweight and compact, maximizing
your pack space without sacrificing
that iconic Jetboil performance. At
7.1 oz or 200 g, the .8L Stash is 40%
lighter than the .8L Zip.
WWW.JETBOIL.CO.NZ
jetboil Micromo $329.95
Ultralight with ultra cooking
control. The MicroMo balances
streamlined and travel-friendly
weight with uncompromising cooking
performance. Cold-weather reliability
and a wind-blocking shroud are
integrated into our most lightweight
and low-profile design with premium
regulator simmer control.
WWW.JETBOIL.CO.NZ
sea to summit Aeros Premium Pillow $64.99
A luxurious high-performance pillow without the weight and
bulk. Perfect for travel and camping where you can risk a
couple more grams for a great night's sleep. The pillowcase
construction allows the outer shell to retain maximum softness
while still being supported by a high strength TPU bladder.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/SEA-TO-SUMMIT/
Kiwi Camping 1.2L Collapsible Turbo Pot $74.99
The Kiwi Camping turbo pot is a lightweight
addition to your adventures weighing at only
450gm with a 1.2L boiling capacity. Perfect for
hot drinks and freeze-dried food and collapses
to 50mm.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set $139.00
For quick boiling when you need it! A super
lightweight aluminium stove with stainless
steel burner, piezo ignition, stabilising feet and
accessories all packaged in a mesh carry bag.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping 350ML Thermo Tumbler
The iconic double-walled Kiwi tumbler! A
staple for adventures big and small. Enjoy
your favourite drinks hot or cold with the
easy-sip lid with vacuum rubber seal.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Explore Planet Earth LED Area Light Kit
The EPE Area Light is a lightweight but
powerful 2400 lumen light perfect for camping
or outdoor settings after sundown. Includes
2.5m extension pole, ground stake and padded
carry case.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
sea to summit Jungle tarp $199.99
Add our Jungle Hammock Tarp to your
Jungle Hammock Set for a sheltered,
bug-free suspended sleep.
Made from water and abrasion
resistant, lightweight 30 denier Ultra-
Sil CORDURA® Nylon fabric with
waterproof seams – double stitched and
tape sealed, non-wicking anchor points
with adjustable guy lines and siliconised
outer surface with 2000mm waterhead.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

Marmot Tungsten 2P $549.00
Ready to adventure with you mile after mile, the freestanding Tungsten
2-Person Tent blends durability, roominess, and a livable design. Strategic
clip placement offers more interior volume after a long day on the mountain.
If a downpour approaches, the colour-coded "easy pitch" clips and poles
make for a quick set up, and the seam-taped, catenary-cut floor and
full-coverage vented fly add to its weather protection. Dual doors allow
easy entry and exit with vestibule storage space around both doors. The
lampshade pocket stows your headlamp and the included abrasion-resistant
footprint round out the details that make life on the trail easier.
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
Mont Adventure Equipment Moondance 2FN Tent $949.99
Spacious 2-person, sub-alpine 4-season tent designed for winter-grade weather
protection. It has the minimum packed size and lowest possible weight without
sacrificing performance and is fast to pitch due to its rectangular shape and
symmetrical pole hubs eliminating mistakes. This FN (Full Nylon inner tent)
version is designed for the warmth, weatherproofness and protection from
spindrift in snowy conditions. 2.1kg
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar
power bank $119.00
Built tough for the outdoors and with
a massive battery capacity you can
keep all your devices charged no matter
where your adventure takes you.
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ
exped Outer Space II Tent $899.99
2-person tent which can be set up in multiple modes to adapt to the conditions
and personal preferences. It features a giant, pole-supported front vestibule that
easily shelters 3 people in camp chairs, a lightweight table and backpacks. The
poles are on the outside of the fly and allow you to pitch the inner and outer tent
in one go or pitch the fly only without the inner tent. 2.9kg
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Helinox_Chair-One_Blue $179.99
The original Helinox chair remains the ultimate
combination of comfort, lightweight packability and
refined design.
Built around Helinox’s proprietary DAC TH72M
Aluminum Alloy frame, it supports up to 145kg but
weighs under 1kg. Its comfort is legendary. The
minimalist design is clean and streamlined. And it
leverages a single-cord bungee system and simple seat
sleeves that make set-up intuitive and fast.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/HELINOX/
macpac Hiking Travel Chair $129.99
This compact option packs smaller
than most folding chairs, weighs just
over a kilo, and comes with a carry
case. Lightweight aluminium frame,
600D polyester with PU coating,
100kg weight limit.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
sea to summit Jungle Hammock Set $299.99
Perfect for humid environments, the Jungle Hammock
Set comes with straps and can be used anywhere
from the backpacking trail to the wilderness. In wet
conditions, combine it with our Jungle Hammock Tarp
for a sheltered, bug-free suspended sleep.
Made using breathable, lightweight 70 denier ripstop
Nylon, high-tenacity monofilament netting, Dyneema®
webbing and corrosion-resistant anodised 6061
Aluminium buckles.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ

BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:
The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed
for the better by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs
per pouch. They have also improved the readability of our back labels.
Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.
For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit:
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
tasty chicken mash $9.49 - $13.99
With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken, cheese
and vegetables.
3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free
Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
Apple & Berry Crumble $13.19
A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and berries topped
with a delicious gluten free cookie crumb.
3 Health Stars - Gluten Free
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
TIRED
LEGS?
WE'VE GOT A
SMOOTHIE FOR
THAT.
INSTANT PASTA $4.89
Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked
pasta.
3.5 Health Stars
Sizes – Family 120g
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
Epic coffee Drip Filter’s
Single from $2.99, 10 Pack from $24.99
Your favourite new adventure essential – specialty coffee,
roasted in micro-batches and loaded into adventure-proof
drip filters. Proceeds from every product sold are donated to
ONETREEPLANTED.
WWW.EPICCOFFEE.CO.NZ
Guilt free dinning since 98!
backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Hey Piña 440ml: Post Fermentation
Fruited Sour 4.5% ABV $8.99
For decades the pineapple, or 'Piña',
in Spanish, was South America's
precious little secret. The now
famous sweetness blends sublimely
with the vibrant raspberry, balanced
with zesty lime.winter.
WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ
Mango Tango 440ml: Post Fermentation
Fruited Sour 5% ABV$8.99
Mango Tango is a magical fusion of
tropical flavours. Mango and Passionfruit
form an elegant connection, embracing
with a vibrant and playful expression of
aromas. Sweet and sour perfection.
WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ
Berrylicious 440ml: Post Fermentation
Fruited Sours 4.5% ABV $8.99
Packed full of Blackberries, cherries
and raspberries. Berrylicious is vibrant
and juicy, with a perfect mix of sweet
and sour berry flavours, balanced with
light tartness and subtle floral and
earthy overtones.
WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ

Tread light.
Sleep soft.
Dusk 400
OUR FAVOURITE FOR FIRST TIMERS
Whether you’re looking for your first down sleeping
bag, or upgrading your setup for adventures on
the horizon, the new Dusk 400 provides feel good
warmth that doesn’t cost the earth.
• 3°C comfort rating
• bluesign® certified recycled
fabrics throughout
• Ethically-sourced 600 loft
HyperDRY RDS duck down
Aside from the essentials, a relaxed mummy fit
balances warmth and room to move. Elastic mat
attachments and concealed cords provide nightlong
comfort, and an internal zipped pocket
ensures you can keep small items close.
Available in standard, women’s and large sizes.
macpac.co.nz | 36 stores nationwide

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
www.sunsaver.co.nz
www.packraftingqueenstown.com
Specialising in
small group guided
packrafting trips and
courses from our base
in Queenstown New
Zealand.
www.adventuresouth.co.nz
Whether you enjoy
cycle trails, road
cycling, mountain
biking or walking,
Adventure South NZ
can help you to explore
New Zealand at
your own pace.
Full-service outfitter selling hiking
and mountaineering gear and
apparel, plus equipment rentals.
Specialising in ski & snowboard
touring equipment new & used;
skis, boards, bindings, skins,
probs, shovels,transceivers &
avalanche packs.
www.smallplanetsports.com
Our motto is “Going the
distance” and we pride
ourselves on providing top
quality outdoor and travel
equipment and service
that will go the distance
with you, wherever that
may be.
www.trekntravel.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
Our Mission
To bring like-minded adventurers together for epic journey’s
fuelled by top-notch coffee. All while supporting the things
we care about and restoring nature.
www.epiccoffee.co.nz
Our very own online store where
you will find hard goods to keep you
equipped for any adventure.
www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will
have you covered.
www.hokaoneone.co.nz
PACKRAFT NZ
Unlock your adventure horizon with Packraft New Zealand.
Online supplier of Kokopelli packrafts, accessories and
adventure inspiration. Shop online or contact us for expert
advice for everything packrafting; hike-raft, bike-raft, hunt-raft,
whitewater, fishing, canyoneering, urban and travel.
www.packraftnewzealand.co.nz
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and
tested in New Zealand since 1973.
www.macpac.co.nz
Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment
specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place
for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor
clothing and more.
www.livingsimply.co.nz
Offering the widest variety,
best tasting, and most
nutrient rich hydration,
energy, and recovery
products on the market.
www.guenergy.co.nz
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Jetboil builds super-dependable
backpacking stoves and camping
systems that pack light,
set up quick, and achieve
rapid boils in minutes.
www.jetboilnz.co.nz
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
With stores in Clyde and
Cromwell, Bike it Now! is
your access point to the
Central Otago Bike trials: T
> Lake Dunstan Trail
> Otago Central Rail Trail
> Roxbourgh Gorge
and more...
www.bikeitnow.co.nz
Excellent quality Outdoor
Gear at prices that can't
be beaten. End of lines.
Ex Demos. Samples. Last
season. Bearpaw. Garneau.
Ahnu. Superfeet.
www.adventureoutlet.co.nz

LONGBOARDING
the classic art
the concept of surfing across the face
of the wave on a smaller board (still at
least 9-10 ft). Copeland and Stoner also
helped locals to make copies of their
boards, introducing modern surfing and
surfboards to New Zealand. These new
surfing techniques put more emphasis
on the surf conditions, causing surfers
to go in search of better locations and
conditions to hunt for breaking waves
that peeled off rather than crashed
straight to the beach. Basically, this was
the birth of surfing, but it was all still
longboarding
Sure the shortboard era came and
stayed, but in the background,
Longboarding still managed to tick
along. There came a full resurgence in
early 1990 as surfers saw the value and
appeal of the longboard.
The art of Longboarding is timeless, it is
an art. They say that longboard surfing
is a state of mind. An idealized stage of
mindfulness.
In the 1960’s surfing arrived in New
Zealand not surfing as we know it but
Longboarding. A few clubies were playing
with hollow surf skis but not until 1959
did two Americans come in New Zealand
and kicked alive a revolution and a
culture.
However, surfing has always been a part
of Māori culture, the practice was called
whakahekeheke. It was carried out using
a variety of craft, including boards, or
kopapa, and even bags of kelp, but the
Christian missionary ‘killjoys’ put a quick
stop to that.
Surfing came back into focus following
a tour of New Zealand by the Hawai'ian
surfer Duke Kahanamoku in 1915 at Lyall
Bay Surf Life Saving Club, in Wellington.
Where he gave demonstrations to locals
on how to surf and by the 1920s and
1930s, New Zealanders were surfing
using solid wooden boards or hollow
ones mainly for surf lifesaving.
Surfing was utilized in the Surf Lifesaving
movement, which used heavy hollow
longboards to paddle through the surf
and rescue people.
Up until this point, surfing consisted
of riding the wave in a straight line
directly to the beach. In 1958, two
American lifeguards, Bing Copeland
and Rick Stoner, came to stay at Piha
Surf Lifesaving Club and introduced
There are more longboarders in the
world than you might think. Some of them
are not full-time ‘loggers’; they own a
respectable ‘quiver’ of boards, and when
the surf is smaller, and other surfers are
sitting on the beach the longboarders can
enjoy the smaller waves as much as, the
more powerful ones.
The 1990s kicked off the nostalgia
period, and the classic longboard
shapers started getting back to the old
designs. Shapers like Roger Hall from
Surfline in Ruakaka who had never left
his roots in Longboarding began a new
era in longboarding New Zealand and
started to come up with some innovation.
Currently, he is designing board with a
wing keel that does not require a fin!
.
There is less rip and tear on a longboard
than a shortboard, but there is still a
range of moves to be made and refine.
Nose riding, tip riding, helicopters,
88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

cross-stepping, trimming, turning
manoeuvres, tube riding and the
classic hang ten.
The original riders used to say that the
essence of Longboarding is style.
The simple joys of Longboarding is
that you will just catch far more waves
than anyone else on a shortboard no
matter the size but in particular when
it is smaller. You get to enjoy the pure
essence of surfing just like Duke
Kahanamoku and just enjoy the glide.
You will get more days on the water
– you can always find somewhere
smaller if it is too big, but you will be
having far more fun than anyone else
when its small. It is difficult to explain,
but when you feel a longboard
glide over the water, it is an entirely
different feel to that of a shortboard, it
is ageless and mesmerizing.
If you have had an injury or just
getting a few years under your belt
then longboard is for you, it is more
comfortable to paddle, easy to catch
waves, more straightforward to stand
and everything is at a slightly slower
pace.
Longboarding is also an excellent
tool for the beginner for all the same
reasons; easy to catch waves, easier
for balance and now with the new soft
top range the issue of wiping out has
fewer repercussions.
It really is about getting back to the
roots of surfing, why you did it in the
first place. Every surfing knows what
it was like when he caught his first
wave and stood up even if only for
a few seconds and Longboarding
takes you back to that moment.
It’s not about hassling for waves of
shredding waves; it’s about the fun
and comradery of it. Those images of
surfing in the early 60s with 6 guys all
on the same wave they were having
a ball. On a longboard, you can
forget the need to big airs and radical
manoeuvres and immerse your soul in
the love of surfing again.
But like all sports you can cruise, or
you can push yourself to learn some
of the critical manoeuvres, the most
thrilling of which is ‘riding the nose’
there is nothing more capitation then
having ten toes over the nose of your
board, and all you can see looking
down is water rushing by.
If you already surf get a longboard
to enjoy those smaller days and if
you don't surf, this summer get a
longboard and head to the beach,
go somewhere where it's small and
simply enjoy the glide!
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89

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VANUATU
Guide to diving
DIVING VANUATU’S CORAL REEFS
Vanuatu is best known to divers around the world
for the wreck of the SS President Coolidge, but as a
diving destination, there is much more to Vanuatu’s
underwater world. Encircled by, and in common with,
its Pacific Ocean neighbours Fiji, New Caledonia and
the Solomon Islands, Vanuatu has rich coral reefs, a
wealth of wrecks and some great snorkelling too. It
is also home to the only underwater post office in the
world. (Seriously.)
Huge caverns and drop offs, abundant marine
life, beautiful bright corals, giant sea fans and
world-famous wrecks all contribute to Vanuatu’s
reputation as a diving destination. It is also one
of the best places for divers to see dugongs. The
landscape beneath the water mirrors that found
above: mountainous terrain with plunging cliffs,
grottoes and overhangs, huge caves and intricate
interconnecting underwater tunnels and chasms
formed by frozen lava.
Vanuatu is an island archipelago consisting of approximately
82 relatively small islands. The main islands from largest
to smallest are; Espiritu Santo, Malakula, Efate (home to
the capital Port Vila), Erromango, Ambrym and Tanna. The
islands are volcanic in origin and as a consequence, Vanuatu’s
shoreline is mostly rocky with fringing reefs and little continental
shelf, dropping rapidly into the ocean depths. This gives rise
to some exciting diving on reefs and walls, as well as some
excellent snorkelling opportunities, particularly on Tanna.
DIVING VANUATU’S WRECKS
Vanuatu became independent as recently as 1980, being
jointly administered by France and Britain, and named the New
Hebrides prior to that. Being an allied territory, it supported a
large American base during WWII and we have them to thank
for the wrecks of the SS President Coolidge, the USS Tucker
and Million Dollar Point.
Where to Dive…
There are three main regions for diving in Vanuatu; Efate,
Espiritu Santo and Tanna.
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EFATE: PORT VILA AND TRANQUILLITY ISLAND
he island of Efate is surrounded by very pretty fringing
reef, a few wrecks and a stunning cavern called the
Cathedral, with stand-out dive sites including Owen’s
Reef on Tranquillity Island and West Side Story near
Hideaway Island Resort.
Diving Port Vila is easy, with a range of operators to
choose from, each of which pick up and return divers
to their hotels. Many of the best dive sites are only
minutes away. Diving is well supervised and varied,
with several wrecks, bommies, drop-offs and caverns in
the protected waters of the bay.
Port Vila is a good place to try diving for the first time,
with a Discover Scuba Diving experience, or even
learn to dive and get the Open Water Certification. With
operators such as Big Blue, lessons can often start in
the pool of your chosen resort, before you venture into
the ocean.
Introductory dives at Hideaway Island Resort and
Tranquillity Island are usually done in the clear,
protected shallows of the lagoon.
More experienced divers can dive deeper at sites
such as the Semele Federesen – the wreck of an
inter-island trader which lies with its propeller at
40m, or the Cathedral, an impressive tall narrow
cavern stretching down to 28m.
There is the wreck of the 1874 built sailing ship
Star of Russia, a three masted sailing ship in
36 meters of water. An island trader scuttled
in the harbour Konanda, and the ex-Qantas
Sandringham flying boat Tasman.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//93

ESPIRITU SANTO
Diving Espiritu Santo is synonymous with diving the SS
President Coolidge, but it’s not the only dive in town. Wreck
diving options also include the infamous Million Dollar
Beach and the USS Tucker, and for coral lovers, there’s
plenty of fringing reefs, drop offs and coral gardens to
explore.
Being home to the world’s largest, most accessible wreck
in the world, Santo is popular with technical divers, using
their skills to plunge the depths of the SS President
Coolidge. This 33,000-tonne converted luxury liner sank
during WWII after hitting a (friendly) mine, and now rests
in depths of 21 to 70 metres. The impressive wreck is
one of the most exciting wreck dives in the world, that is
accessible to recreational divers.
If you want to see the whole wreck, you’ll need between 10
and 15 dives, and technical diving allows divers more time
to explore the seemingly endless corridors, hidden alcoves
and cavernous cargo holds.
Other technical dive sites around Santo include Million
Dollar Point where you can explore the famously dumped
WWII equipment in depths of up to 50m.
Dive Centres on Espiritu Santo, provide technical dive
training and support both open circuit and rebreather
technical divers, with a range of gases and equipment
available for hire.
For those seeking coral reefs, there’s Ratarata Reef and
two at Tutuba Island, with good chances of seeing resident
turtles, barracudas and other passing pelagics, plus
Cindy’s Reef, off Aore Island, which provides easy reef
diving with good visibility.
TANNA
Diving Tanna is very different from diving Port Vila or
Santo, as Tanna is a more remote volcanic island – with
an active volcano. Diving Tanna, you will experience
crystal clear water, colourful hard coral reefs and an
amazing topology of swim throughs and blue holes.
The diving on Tanna also offers shear vertical walls with
pelagic action including reef sharks, turtles, schools of
yellowfin tuna and barracuda as well as the wreck of a
small cargo boat.
One of the most unique aspects of diving in Tanna is
the vast amount of easily accessible swim-throughs and
caves. Some so small you question whether it’s possible
to squeeze through, but the local dive guides at Volcano
Island Divers know this fringing reef like the back of their
hand and expertly weave through it.
When to dive
Diving is possible year-round in Vanuatu, with water
temperature varying between 24ºC - 29ºC depending on
the season, with the warmest months from January to
May and the coolest in August. There is also a distinct
difference in water temperature from north in Santo, to
south, at Tanna. Rainy season runs from December to
March, however with steep drop offs this does not affect
visibility.
94//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#229

vanuatu.travel

FOOTSTEPS
TASMANIA DAY-WALKS TOUR
17 March - 10 April 2022
TONGARIRO CROSSING SHUTTLES
-come and hike through our magic landscape-
We welcome your enquiry:
footstepsanz@gmail.com
or phone 021 172 3244
www.footstepswalkingclub.com
5.45am - 7.15am - 8.30am - 9.45am departures
$45per person for return trip
www.tongarirocrossingshuttles.co.nz
Tongariro National Park a Dual World Heritage Site

Tongariro Crossing Packages: B&B, Shuttle, Lunch, Spa soak From $266 -$417 per night
info@plateaulodge.co.nz | +64 7 8922993 | www.plateaulodge.co.nz
Your mobile
power solution
www.sunsaver.co.nz
“Escape ordinary”
Caring luxury | Local flavour | One of a kind
Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage room available
1191 Pukaki Street, Rotorua
p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz

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