19223_ATB_EA Season Guides_Spring-Summer 21_PREVIEW
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SPRING-SUMMER <strong>21</strong><br />
Guide<br />
learn to kitesurf<br />
in Shorabad<br />
p.18<br />
the hiking trails<br />
in the north<br />
p.22<br />
the highlights<br />
of old Sheki<br />
p.28<br />
travel back to<br />
the Oil Boom<br />
p.34
Welcome!<br />
Borders remained closed in Azerbaijan due to the pandemic, but<br />
vaccines being rolled out means hope is on the horizon – so now is a<br />
good time to start thinking about that future trip to this fascinating<br />
country. Within these pages, we’ve put together some of the best<br />
Azerbaijan experiences in spring and summer, from relaxing at<br />
seaside resorts, to hiking in the Caucasus Mountains, to Formula 1<br />
cars whizzing around central Baku. Put simply, spring is when nature<br />
reawakens and the country’s diverse landscapes become fabulously<br />
green and fecund, while summers are hot and sunny and a great time<br />
to escape to the Caspian coast or to the mountains. Both seasons<br />
have plenty to surprise and delight!<br />
Have<br />
something<br />
to say?<br />
A race to remember<br />
The Azerbaijan Grand Prix 4<br />
EURO 2020 is coming<br />
to Baku 12<br />
Top seaside retreats<br />
near Baku 14<br />
GO<br />
kitesurfing<br />
in Shorabad<br />
18<br />
Trek the trails<br />
of northern Azerbaijan 22<br />
Highlights<br />
of historic Sheki 28<br />
Travel back<br />
to the Oil Boom 34<br />
Beat the<br />
heat with<br />
these<br />
drinks 40<br />
To send us your feedback, write to the editor<br />
at experienceazerbaijan@tourismboard.az.<br />
We look forward to hearing from you!<br />
2 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
Experience<br />
Azerbaijan’s<br />
summer<br />
vibe 44
A RACE TO REMEMBER<br />
THE AZERBAIJAN<br />
GRAND<br />
PRIX<br />
SINCE DEBUTING IN 2016, THE AZERBAIJAN<br />
GRAND PRIX HAS PROVED ITSELF TO BE<br />
ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING RACES ON<br />
THE ENTIRE FORMULA 1 CALENDAR. HAVING<br />
BEEN CANCELLED LAST SUMMER DUE TO THE<br />
CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC, THE LANDMARK<br />
FIFTH RACE THROUGH THE STREETS OF BAKU<br />
TOOK PLACE ON 4-6 JUNE. HERE IS WHAT<br />
HAPPENED – PLUS WHY THIS IS AN EVENT YOU<br />
SHOULD ALWAYS TUNE IN FOR.<br />
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| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 5
The 20<strong>21</strong> race<br />
Normally, the Azerbaijan GP is a wonderful<br />
opportunity to experience an amazing<br />
weekend of motorsport while exploring<br />
Baku, its sights, atmosphere and nightlife,<br />
as well as enjoying a host of F1-related<br />
entertainment, including concerts with<br />
global stars. But sadly, due to the coronavirus<br />
pandemic, there was no special<br />
entertainment this year and the race went<br />
down without spectators. That said, it was<br />
nonetheless a fantastic show, producing<br />
myriad talking points and surprises. In<br />
the end, the race was won by Sergio Perez<br />
of Red Bull, who capitalised on mistakes<br />
by favourites Lewis Hamilton and Max<br />
Verstappen, involved in one of several<br />
dramatic crashes.<br />
Always drama<br />
Crashes and other attention-grabbing incidents are nothing<br />
new for Baku. The inaugural F1 race in Azerbaijan<br />
in 2016 (then called the 2016 European Grand Prix) may<br />
have been surprisingly uneventful – beyond Mercedes<br />
driver Valtteri Bottas clocking what was then the top<br />
speed for an F1 car (378km/h!) – but the next two races,<br />
in 2017 and 2018, were jam-packed with incidents, including<br />
crashes, quarrels and unexpected winners. Both races<br />
were voted “race of the season” by F1 fans! It is worth<br />
noting that every Formula 1 race in Baku so far has produced<br />
a different winner.<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 7
Lined by<br />
landmarks<br />
The circuit was designed by German<br />
engineer Hermann Tilke, the leading<br />
track designer in F1, in order to really<br />
show off Azerbaijan’s dynamically<br />
developing capital. As a result, this<br />
is not just a race but an exhibition of<br />
Baku. The circuit is right in the city<br />
centre, where it traces the ancient Old<br />
City walls and passes along elegant<br />
streets like Istyglaliyyat, lined by an<br />
eclectic mix of architecture erected in<br />
the early 20th century. The long finishing<br />
straight runs parallel to the Seaside<br />
Boulevard, a glorious tree-filled stretch<br />
along the Caspian, and takes in landmarks<br />
like the iconic Maiden Tower,<br />
a structure so mysterious that to this<br />
day versions abound as to its original<br />
purpose (fort or fire temple?) and<br />
Government House, a striking Sovietera<br />
building.<br />
An amazing<br />
track<br />
The unpredictability is down to the<br />
track, the Baku City Circuit, which at just<br />
over 6km is the second longest circuit<br />
in Formula 1. But more importantly, it’s<br />
the fastest street circuit in F1! Drivers<br />
push the pedal to 360km/h on an over<br />
2km straight along Neftchilar Avenue –<br />
also the longest straight in F1. Another<br />
key feature is the tight and technical<br />
turns around Baku’s Old City, including<br />
a notorious turn 8 that’s just 7m wide!<br />
Of the 20 turns, many of them are sharp.<br />
And while, unlike other F1 street circuits,<br />
there are opportunities aplenty<br />
for overtaking, the lack of run-off areas<br />
means there’s little room for error. So it’s<br />
not necessarily the speed of the car that<br />
counts but rather skill, discipline, teamwork<br />
– and fortune.<br />
8<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 9
Race winners<br />
2016 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes)<br />
2017 - Daniel Ricciardo (Red Bull)<br />
2018 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes)<br />
2019 - Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes)<br />
20<strong>21</strong> - Sergio Perez (Red Bull)<br />
To find out more, see:<br />
bakucitycircuit.com<br />
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EURO 2020<br />
is coming<br />
to Baku<br />
Azerbaijan’s vibrant capital is staging three<br />
Group A games and one quarterfinal:<br />
Wales vs Switzerland on 12 June<br />
Turkey vs Wales on 16 June<br />
Switzerland vs Turkey on 16 June<br />
Quarterfinal on 3 July<br />
The matches are being played at Baku’s stunning<br />
Olympic Stadium, the largest stadium in<br />
the Caucasus with a capacity of 69,870. The<br />
futuristic structure, which illuminates spectacularly<br />
at night, opened in 2015 to host the<br />
first European Games and has since staged<br />
the UEFA U17 European Championship in 2016,<br />
the 4th Islamic Solidarity Games in 2017, and<br />
the 2019 Europa League final between Arsenal<br />
and Chelsea. It has also hosted Champions<br />
League games involving local team Qarabag<br />
FK and is the home of Azerbaijan’s national<br />
football team.<br />
For health and safety reasons, the stadium<br />
may only be 50% full for EURO 2020 matches,<br />
with only locals and travelling fans of the competing<br />
teams allowed to attend. Nevertheless,<br />
EURO 2020 still promises to be an absolute<br />
feast of football and a great chance to showcase<br />
the beauty of Baku!<br />
Azerbaijan’s football history<br />
Football is really popular in Azerbaijan and the country has an intriguing football history.<br />
Remember that “Russian linesman” who helped England win the 1966 World Cup? Well<br />
that was Tofik Bayramov, a legendary Azerbaijani referee and former player of Neftchi.<br />
That’s Azerbaijan's most historic club, named after Baku’s local oil workers, which regularly<br />
performed in the Soviet Top League. One of its stars was Anatoly Banishevsky, who dazzled<br />
aged 19 for the USSR at the 1966 World Cup and went on to become a legend of Azerbaijani<br />
football. Another was Alakbar Mammadov, famed for scoring 4 goals against AC Milan at the<br />
San Siro in 1955. In more recent times, Qarabag FK made history in 2017-18 by becoming the<br />
first Azerbaijani team to reach the group stages of the Champions League.<br />
Postponed from last summer due to the<br />
coronavirus pandemic, the 2020 UEFA<br />
European football Championship finally<br />
kicks off at the Stadio Olimpico in Rome<br />
with Turkey versus Italy on 11 June. The<br />
tournament ends exactly a month later<br />
and in between, to mark the competition’s<br />
60th anniversary, matches are being held<br />
across 11 host cities: Rome, St Petersburg,<br />
Seville, London, Munich, Budapest,<br />
Bucharest, Copenhagen, Amsterdam,<br />
Glasgow – and of course, Baku.<br />
To find out more about<br />
EURO 2020 in Baku, see<br />
euro2020.affa.az<br />
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| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 13
Top<br />
seaside<br />
retreats<br />
near<br />
Baku<br />
In the village of Nardaran, only a 30-minute drive from<br />
central Baku, is an exclusive self-contained seaside resort<br />
called Sea Breeze (seabreeze.az), comprising several<br />
architecturally striking hotels plus minimalist villas<br />
and luxurious apartments along with bars, restaurants,<br />
pools, private beach, tennis courts, football pitch, kids’<br />
club, fitness halls and even an anti-ageing centre. This<br />
is the ultimate high-end summer escape where you can<br />
rest up, rejuvenate and soak up the amazing vibe of<br />
the Caspian. Sea Breeze also hosts a popular four-day<br />
summer music festival called Zhara.<br />
When summer hots up in Azerbaijan, people<br />
naturally migrate towards the coastline. One<br />
of the best spots is the Absheron Peninsula,<br />
which juts out into the Caspian Sea north of<br />
Baku and attracts the crowds in summer with<br />
its hotels, spas, sanatoriums and beaches.<br />
Here are five of the best places to visit:<br />
Another seaside retreat in Bilgah is Amburan Beach<br />
Club (amburan.com), where an indulgent outdoor pool<br />
invites you to chill out in cosy deck chairs and sun<br />
loungers, or you may prefer to laze on the beautifully<br />
clean sliver of private gold-sand beach. You can also<br />
get involved in activities like beach football, volleyball<br />
and mini golf to get involved in, and keep yourself<br />
fuelled up with everything from coffee and ice cream to<br />
pizza and pilafs served at three different eateries. With<br />
an entrance fee of just 30 AZN per person on weekdays<br />
and 35 AZN on Saturdays and Sundays and free<br />
for children up to 12, this is an extremely good-value<br />
option for a fun day with the family.<br />
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About a 50-minute drive<br />
north of Baku, situated<br />
on a thin peninsula of<br />
the coast near the settlement<br />
of Shorabad, is<br />
Azerbaijan’s first and only<br />
kitesurfing centre and<br />
hotel (kitesurfing.az) set<br />
around an 8km 2 lagoon<br />
with ideal wind conditions.<br />
The season lasts from May<br />
to October, during which<br />
you can come and learn<br />
to kitesurf, perfect your<br />
skills, or simply chill out<br />
at the beach club. That<br />
includes a private pool,<br />
sun terrace and restaurant<br />
and is undoubtedly one<br />
of the most relaxing spots<br />
on Azerbaijan’s Caspian<br />
coastline.<br />
At Dalga Beach Aquapark<br />
(dalgaaquapark.az) in<br />
Mardakan there’s also a<br />
lovely patch of private<br />
beach, where you can either<br />
kick back on loungers or<br />
get active on kayaks, water<br />
skis or jet skis. What many<br />
people really love about this<br />
place is the fun aqua park,<br />
equipped with an entertaining<br />
assortment of pools and<br />
slides accompanied by the<br />
beats of an in-house DJ. In<br />
between all the relaxation<br />
and fun, you can grab a bite<br />
to eat at restaurants dishing<br />
up Azerbaijani and Italian<br />
cuisine, burgers and kebabs.<br />
Meanwhile, the kids can run<br />
wild in the onsite kids’ club,<br />
and if you’d like to stay over<br />
there are four-bedroom villas<br />
with jacuzzis, sea views and<br />
billiards.<br />
In the coastal village of Bilgah a<br />
futuristic structure looms above the<br />
coastline. This is Bilgah Beach Hotel<br />
(bilgahbeachhotel.com), occupying<br />
one of the best spots on the peninsula,<br />
blessed with turquoise sea<br />
and breezy air. The 300m private<br />
beach is a great spot to swim and<br />
sip cocktails, while you can zone out<br />
completely at the calming indoor<br />
and outdoor pools. More soothing<br />
experiences await in the sumptuous<br />
spa with Turkish and Finnish saunas.<br />
For more action, head to the aqua<br />
park at Cali Beach Club. There’s<br />
a range of cosy rooms, suites and<br />
villas plus bars, lounges and restaurants<br />
and even a nightclub.<br />
If you’re looking for a more local experience,<br />
then spend an afternoon<br />
on one of the vast sandy beaches<br />
lining the Absheron Peninsula –<br />
which draw Baku and Absheron<br />
locals to while away hot weekends,<br />
cooled by a refreshing breeze and<br />
dips in the sea. Here you can rent<br />
an umbrella, hut or gazebo, order<br />
tea and watermelon, and tuck<br />
into fresh fish at simple beachside<br />
restaurants. Be sure to stay for<br />
sunset to see a glorious lilac haze<br />
hovering over the Caspian. The best<br />
beaches to visit are in the coastal<br />
villages of Mardakan, Buzovna,<br />
Bilgah and Novkhani, reachable<br />
in just over an hour by bus from<br />
Koroghlu metro station. But hop in<br />
a taxi to get there much quicker<br />
(approx 30 minutes).<br />
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| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 17
GO<br />
kitesurfing<br />
in Shorabad<br />
About a 50-minute drive north of Baku, situated on a thin<br />
peninsula of the coast near the settlement of Shorabad,<br />
is Azerbaijan’s first and only kitesurfing centre and hotel<br />
(kitesurfing.az) set around an 8km 2 flat-water lagoon with<br />
perfect wind conditions. The season lasts from May to<br />
October, during which time you can come and learn to<br />
kitesurf, perfect your skills, or simply chill out at the beach<br />
club – one of the most relaxing spots on Azerbaijan’s<br />
Caspian coastline.<br />
Learn to kitesurf<br />
The Shorabad lagoon is the ideal place<br />
to come and learn to kitesurf as there’s<br />
an 80% probability of wind, the warm<br />
water is just 1.5m deep – shallow for<br />
beginners but deep enough to cushion<br />
the impact of falling when attempting<br />
tricks – and the sandy stoneless bottom<br />
and pristine surrounding beach means<br />
no boots are needed. Whether you’re a<br />
total beginner or an advanced rider, the<br />
kitesurfing school offers a range of effective<br />
courses led by friendly and experienced<br />
instructors.<br />
For beginners, prices range from 370<br />
AZN for a basic 3-hour group course to<br />
1,250 AZN for 15 hours of private tuition.<br />
One-off private lessons will set you back<br />
120 AZN for 1 hour and 200 AZN for 2<br />
hours. Once you’ve mastered the fundamentals<br />
and fortified your confidence,<br />
you can then venture out onto the open<br />
Caspian – provided the water isn’t too<br />
choppy.<br />
If you haven’t got any equipment<br />
don’t worry! Everything is available to<br />
rent, from kite and board to helmet,<br />
wetsuit and harness. Renting the whole<br />
lot for a day costs 180 AZN. You can<br />
also purchase equipment at the onsite<br />
shop, which also provides basic repairs if<br />
required.<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 19
Come and relax<br />
Besides the kitesurfing this is one<br />
of the best and most secluded<br />
spots to enjoy the Caspian<br />
coastline. A day pass costing 25<br />
AZN allows you to simply spend<br />
the day here, enjoying the pool<br />
and sun terrace with superb<br />
views of the lagoon backed<br />
by the Caucasus Mountains<br />
on the horizon, not to mention<br />
the sublime sunsets! The<br />
staff are incredibly warm and<br />
friendly and there’s a restaurant<br />
and poolside bar serving<br />
hearty meals like burgers<br />
and pizzas along with<br />
homemade lemonades, ice<br />
teas, desserts and ice-cold<br />
beers.<br />
Stay a while<br />
The kitesurfing centre in<br />
Shorabad makes for a great<br />
day trip from Baku but why<br />
not make the most of this<br />
relaxing escape from the<br />
rush and noise of the city<br />
and stay the night, or even<br />
a few? The hotel is just 80m<br />
from the kite station (meaning<br />
you can almost roll out<br />
of bed in the morning and<br />
onto the board!) and offers<br />
single, double and family<br />
rooms for 130, 170 and 230<br />
AZN respectively. All rooms<br />
are fully equipped with WiFi,<br />
air conditioners, TVs, ensuite<br />
bathrooms, super comfy<br />
beds and amazing views.<br />
Quick contacts:<br />
info@kitesurfing.az<br />
+994502770730<br />
20<br />
| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | <strong>21</strong>
Trek<br />
the trails<br />
of northern<br />
Azerbaijan<br />
The Greater<br />
Caucasus Mountains<br />
tower all the way<br />
across northern<br />
Azerbaijan, creating<br />
dramatic scenery at<br />
every turn. A great<br />
way to get up there<br />
and explore them is<br />
by hiking, which has<br />
never been easier<br />
thanks to a number of<br />
newly marked trails.<br />
One of the top hiking<br />
areas in Azerbaijan<br />
is the Guba and<br />
Gusar regions, where<br />
you can enjoy the<br />
following:<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 23
Khinalig –<br />
Galakhudat<br />
This 8.2km route connects the<br />
mountain villages of Khinalig and<br />
Galakhudat in the Guba region and<br />
takes you through soul-stirring scenery<br />
of the steep cliffs of Gizilgaya and<br />
the valley of the river Gudialchay.<br />
Khinalig, the starting point, is one of<br />
the highest villages in Azerbaijan and<br />
populated by an ancient ethnic group<br />
with their own unique language. This<br />
is an easy walk and ideal for beginners,<br />
though the magnificent views<br />
make it worthwhile for anyone.<br />
Griz – Grizdehne<br />
From the dramatically set mountaintop village of Griz,<br />
located at <strong>21</strong>00m, an 8.5km downhill trail leads to the<br />
village of Grizdehne at the foot of the mountains. The<br />
route includes some pretty steep sections so for those<br />
with vertigo, this is not ideal! But for anyone else the<br />
scenery is wondrous, with amazing views of jagged<br />
cliffs in the Gudialchay canyon, where an Egyptian vulture<br />
or long-legged buzzard may well be hovering. En<br />
route you’ll encounter a waterfall and venture through<br />
pristine forest near the bottom.<br />
Laza – Kuzun<br />
One of the top trails in the Gusar region, this 6.5km<br />
walk connects the villages of Laza and Kuzun through<br />
a landscape of steep cliffs, waterfalls and sparse forests<br />
– the superb scenery of the Gusarchay valley. Laza,<br />
where it begins, is inhabited by ethnic Lezgis, who are<br />
thought to be descendants of a tribe that populated the<br />
ancient kingdom of Caucasian Albania. As you go, you’ll<br />
have incredible views of two locally famous peaks: Mt<br />
Shahdag and Mt Gizilgaya. Most of the trail is downhill,<br />
and you might even see the occasional golden eagle.<br />
Galakhudat –<br />
Griz<br />
This route extending 9.3km and<br />
taking just over 4 hours meanders<br />
through a magnificent landscape of<br />
valleys and canyons. Beginning in the<br />
rustic village of Galakhudat, it ends in<br />
sublimely set Griz village, inhabited<br />
by a separate ethnic group with their<br />
own language. If you attempt it in<br />
summer you can cool off at the lovely<br />
Gurgur waterfall, which in winter<br />
freezes over and makes for stunning<br />
photos! Sometimes you can see griffon<br />
vultures circling overhead.<br />
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Laza – Shahdag<br />
Mountain Resort<br />
A short and scenic 4.5km trail taking under<br />
2 hours, this one links Laza village with<br />
the Shahdag Mountain Resort, the first of<br />
Azerbaijan’s three new ski resorts. Starting<br />
in Laza, which is stunningly set in a valley<br />
flanked by emerald-green slopes, it goes<br />
via the foothills of Mt Gizilgaya and finishes<br />
at the highest cable car station of the<br />
Shahdag resort. From there you can ride<br />
down to the resort for a pleasant post-hike<br />
cappuccino, or extend the route by trekking<br />
to the nearby villages of Zindanmurug,<br />
Anig, Susay and Griz.<br />
How to<br />
book a<br />
trip<br />
You can walk these trails independently<br />
by following the<br />
signs. Or you can go with other<br />
like-minded hikers on trips and<br />
tours organised by companies<br />
including these:<br />
Mountaineering.az<br />
Camping Azerbaijan<br />
Mountain Host Azerbaijan<br />
Nukha Outdoor Club<br />
Campsiz<br />
Nature Discover Azerbaijan<br />
Azerbaijan Alpine Club<br />
Vertical Travel Azerbaijan<br />
Shahdag Mountain Resort<br />
Backcountry Azerbaijan<br />
Kuzun –<br />
Yergi Kek<br />
Some do not have websites but<br />
you’ll find them on Facebook.<br />
This trail connects the village<br />
of Kuzun with one of<br />
Azerbaijan’s highest villages,<br />
Yergi Kek at 2,380m. Both<br />
Kuzun and Yergi Kek are populated<br />
by ethnic Lezgi people.<br />
The 8km hike takes you<br />
through magnificent scenery<br />
of expansive subalpine<br />
meadows backed by the steep<br />
cliffs of Mt Shahdag. And it’s<br />
a particularly good one for<br />
bird lovers, as you may be<br />
able to see rare birds of the<br />
Caucasus Mountains such<br />
as the Caucasian grouse and<br />
mountain chiffchaff hiding in<br />
26 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
the rocks and shrubbery.<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 27
Highlights<br />
of historic<br />
Sheki<br />
The historic centre of Sheki is a<br />
national architectural reserve and<br />
a UNESCO World Heritage site.<br />
Occupying the northern part of<br />
the city lying across the southern<br />
slopes of the Caucasus Mountains,<br />
the area exudes a special Silk Road<br />
atmosphere with its cobblestone<br />
streets, distinctive houses, caravanserais<br />
and countless artisans<br />
making centuries-old local crafts.<br />
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Sheki Fortress<br />
The core of the old town is the Sheki Fortress<br />
built as a stronghold of the Sheki Khanate, a<br />
local statelet founded in 1743. Have a wander<br />
inside the crenellated walls, to explore a number<br />
of local attractions including the Sheki Khan’s<br />
Palace – without doubt one of Azerbaijan’s most<br />
magnificent buildings.<br />
Museum of People’s<br />
Applied Arts<br />
Browse some 600<br />
artefacts and photos<br />
reflecting life in Sheki<br />
in previous centuries all<br />
within a distinctively<br />
shaped historic church.<br />
Sheki Khan’s Palace<br />
This lavish mansion fronted by 500-year-old plane<br />
trees dates from the 1760s and was the summer residence<br />
of the ruling Sheki Khans before the Khanate<br />
was subjugated by the Russian Empire. Admire<br />
the facade with its gorgeous geometric tiles before<br />
heading inside to find exquisite frescoes and magical<br />
stained-glass windows made using a local craft<br />
called shebeke, that creates a dazzling light show.<br />
Museum of History, Ethnography<br />
and Local Lore<br />
A museum containing over 5,000 exhibits covering<br />
everything from local flora and fauna to<br />
archaeological finds and domestic devices used<br />
by Sheki residents in former times.<br />
ABAD ceramic art centre<br />
Inside this lovingly restored 19th-century red-brick<br />
building local craftsmen make a range of ceramic<br />
objects and souvenirs. You can observe them, take a<br />
masterclass or buy souvenirs here.<br />
House of Craftsmen<br />
A former military barracks from<br />
the Tsarist era hosting rooms<br />
and stalls selling a variety of<br />
local crafts for which Sheki is<br />
famous, such as shebeke –<br />
wooden lattices filled with<br />
stained glass, tekelduz – a<br />
traditional type of embroidery,<br />
kelaghayi – a traditional silk<br />
headscarf for women, national<br />
musical instruments like the<br />
tar, and others.<br />
Upper Caravanserai<br />
In old Sheki there were several<br />
caravanserais where travelling<br />
merchants stayed and traded.<br />
Of the two that remain, one is<br />
open to visitors. This is the Upper<br />
Caravanserai, which is now a fantastic<br />
hotel and restaurant. Here,<br />
you can enjoy a wonderfully<br />
authentic stay, try local cuisine,<br />
or just pop in for a Silk Road-style<br />
tea experience.<br />
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Shekikhanovs’ House<br />
Half-hidden in the mazy streets<br />
behind the caravanserai, the<br />
Shekikhanovs’ House is the<br />
former winter residence of the<br />
Sheki Khan’s family. It’s less<br />
lavish than the palace in the<br />
fortress but still a gem of local<br />
architecture displaying stunning<br />
stained-glass windows,<br />
opulent wall paintings and<br />
decorative Sheki-style bukhara<br />
fireplaces. Akhundzade Avenue<br />
Wandering down Sheki’s<br />
historic trading street along<br />
the Gurjanachay river, you<br />
can admire lovely old Sheki<br />
buildings, call into cafes to<br />
refuel with tea or coffee and<br />
browse shops selling local<br />
handicrafts and sweets. Be<br />
sure to try Sheki halva, a<br />
super sweet local variety<br />
of pakhlava – and to<br />
take in the awesome<br />
views of the beautiful<br />
Caucasus Mountains!<br />
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Travel back<br />
to the<br />
Oil Boom<br />
When Baku’s oil industry boomed in the late<br />
19th century, it triggered the construction of<br />
a stunning collection of architecture, blending<br />
local and European styles, that completely<br />
changed the face of central Baku. Taking a<br />
walking tour of these delightful buildings is a<br />
fantastic way to uncover the history of Baku<br />
through dazzling architectural details and<br />
moving human stories.<br />
1. The Hajinski House<br />
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2. The Palace of Happiness 3. The Institute of Manuscripts<br />
5 amazing buildings<br />
The Palace of Happiness (1910), aka<br />
the Mukhtarov Palace, is a luxurious<br />
French Gothic mansion that belonged<br />
to another highly influential oil baron,<br />
Murtuza Mukhtarov, who had it built for<br />
his beloved wife of Ossetian descent,<br />
Liza Turganova. According to legend,<br />
it’s a replica of a building Liza had greatly<br />
admired during one of the couple’s<br />
trips to Europe. Muktarov tasked Jozef<br />
Ploszko with the design and surprised<br />
Liza with her new home upon its completion.<br />
But the story has a tragic end:<br />
following the Soviet takeover in 1920,<br />
Red Army soldiers burst into the foyer to<br />
confiscate the property and Mukhtarov<br />
apparently shot them before turning the<br />
gun on himself.<br />
The Institute of Manuscripts (1901)<br />
was built to house a pioneering school<br />
for Muslim girls by the highly revered<br />
Baku tycoon Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev.<br />
Given the general belief of the day<br />
among local Muslims that girls didn’t<br />
need an education, Taghiyev had to<br />
overcome immense resistance to realise<br />
the project but succeeded thanks to<br />
special permission from the Tsar and<br />
leading Muslim clerics. Girls from both<br />
rich and poor backgrounds received<br />
a well-rounded education here until<br />
the Russian Revolution, after which<br />
the building hosted the parliament of<br />
the first Azerbaijani republic. It was<br />
designed by another outstanding Polish<br />
architect, Jozef Goslawski, and now<br />
houses the Institute of Manuscripts.<br />
The Baku City Hall (1904) building was<br />
also designed by Goslawski, for whom<br />
this Oil Boom masterpiece became his<br />
final project as he passed away during<br />
it from tuberculosis, aged just 39. The<br />
stateliness of the building, constructed<br />
in the Baroque style, reflects the great<br />
importance of the role of the Baku<br />
municipality at that time. Red bricks<br />
were imported all the way from Italy to<br />
decorate the exterior, which also displays<br />
the Baku coat of arms featuring 3<br />
tongues of flame. A melody plays every<br />
hour from the impressive clock tower<br />
erected over the pavement. The Baku<br />
Executive Power offices are currently<br />
accommodated here.<br />
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4. Baku City Hall
The Opera and Drama Theatre (1911)<br />
was built by local magnates the Mailov<br />
brothers and designed in Gothic with<br />
hints of Modern by the architect Nikolay<br />
Bayev, who completed the project in just<br />
10 months! The story goes that it was<br />
built in response to a glamorous soprano<br />
who while visiting Baku complained that<br />
such a wealthy city lacked its own opera<br />
house. The Mailov brothers quickly set<br />
about rectifying this and were given extra<br />
motivation by the tycoon Taghiyev, who<br />
offered to cover the costs if the Mailovs<br />
could complete it within 12 months – which<br />
they achieved by employing several shifts<br />
of workers to toil day and night.<br />
Ismailiyya Palace (1913) was built by the<br />
vastly wealthy oil baron Musa Naghiyev in<br />
memory of his son Aga Ismayil, who died<br />
young of tuberculosis. Naghiyev commissioned<br />
the design to Polish architect Jozef<br />
Ploszko, who modelled the Gothic edifice<br />
on Venice’s Palazzo Ducale. It originally<br />
hosted the Muslim Charity Society until being<br />
destroyed during a period of civil unrest<br />
in 1918. It was restored in the early Soviet<br />
period and currently houses the presidium<br />
of the Azerbaijani Academy of Sciences.<br />
These are just some<br />
of the amazing stories<br />
waiting to be told!<br />
6. The Ismailiyya Palace<br />
Book a tour<br />
The following companies offer guided walking tours<br />
of Baku’s Oil Boom architecture:<br />
ENC Tours<br />
www.enctours.az;<br />
+994 55 203 97 20<br />
Pasha Travel<br />
www.pashatravel.az;<br />
+994 50 250 73 89<br />
Explore Azerbaijan<br />
www.exploreazerbaijan.com;<br />
+994 50 295 11 53<br />
Discover Azerbaijan<br />
www.discoverazerbaijan.az;<br />
+994 50 515 45 05<br />
Myway Travel<br />
www.myway.az;<br />
+994 55 257 98 88<br />
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5. The Opera and Drama Theatre
1<br />
SHERBET<br />
Beat<br />
the heat<br />
with these<br />
drinks<br />
One of the best-loved drinks<br />
in Azerbaijan, sherbet is a<br />
mix of sugar and fruits or<br />
herbs that has many possible<br />
flavour combinations.<br />
Among the most popular are<br />
lemon, pomegranate, basil,<br />
mint, rose petals, saffron<br />
and even milk sherbets. The<br />
drink is easy to prepare:<br />
fruits or herbs are boiled<br />
in water sweetened with<br />
sugar, then the concoction<br />
is cooled before adding<br />
ice and serving. Sherbets<br />
are popular at weddings<br />
and other celebrations,<br />
served alongside pilaf,<br />
dolma and other traditional<br />
Azerbaijani dishes. Some<br />
are even consumed for<br />
medicinal purposes.<br />
In the scorching heat of an<br />
Azerbaijani summer, it’s crucial to<br />
keep hydrated, and while water is<br />
of course the most important thirst<br />
quencher, Azerbaijan has many<br />
more refreshing drinks to help<br />
cool you down. Moreover, they’re<br />
packed with amazing flavours and<br />
really easy to prepare at home<br />
(except for the last):<br />
2<br />
AYRAN<br />
This simple and super refreshing<br />
beverage is essentially yoghurt<br />
mixed with water and a variety of<br />
aromatic herbs, and it’s found in the<br />
national cuisines of both Caucasian<br />
and Central Asian peoples. It goes<br />
especially well with kebabs and other<br />
hearty meat dishes, as it balances out<br />
the heaviness and aids digestion. It’s<br />
also enormously nutritious, so ideal<br />
if you’re planning on keeping active.<br />
A variation of ayran is altama, which<br />
contains added dill, mint or chopped<br />
cucumber.<br />
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3<br />
COMPOTE<br />
A very common drink in many former<br />
Soviet countries, compote is made<br />
by boiling any number of dried fruits<br />
in water, occasionally adding sugar<br />
to the mixture, and leaving the fruit<br />
chunks in the resulting drink. This is<br />
the perfect alcohol-free accompaniment<br />
to an al fresco lunch or dinner<br />
in summer, and you’ll find it served<br />
everywhere in Azerbaijan, from fancy<br />
urban eateries to simple countryside<br />
restaurants. Some of the most popular<br />
flavours are cornelian cherry, feijoa,<br />
peach and quince – but any fruit that<br />
grows naturally can be converted into<br />
compote!<br />
5<br />
CHAY (T<strong>EA</strong>)<br />
Azerbaijanis have made tea-drinking<br />
an art. Not only do they serve it in a<br />
beautifully pear-shaped armudu glass<br />
but there’s also a name for the rich red<br />
colour it’s supposed to have: pürrəngi.<br />
Here, tea is consumed everywhere and<br />
in all seasons – even on hot days at<br />
the beach! And it’s not just a drink but<br />
a symbol of hospitality that is eagerly<br />
offered to guests. Tea also still plays<br />
a key role in certain cultural rituals,<br />
such as when a girl’s family signals<br />
their acceptance of a marriage proposal<br />
by serving the young man’s family<br />
tea with sugar rather than without it.<br />
At the Yashil Chay tea farm in Lankaran you can collect tea, try<br />
dozens of different tea varieties as well as local food, take a tour, have<br />
a photo session and more. Address: Istisu village, Lankaran.<br />
Coordinates: 38.79550629571087; 48.734468452053314<br />
4<br />
POMEGRANATE<br />
JUICE<br />
In Azerbaijan, people are passionate about<br />
pomegranates, which are grown throughout the<br />
country. There’s even a unique Pomegranate<br />
Festival each autumn in the city of Goychay<br />
– which is so unique it was recently added to<br />
UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible<br />
Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In cultural<br />
terms, the pomegranate is seen as a symbol<br />
of abundance, while in the local cuisine it’s consumed<br />
in countless forms, from sauce to wine.<br />
In summer, pomegranate juice is a super health<br />
thirst quencher sold widely by street vendors.<br />
6<br />
LOCAL BEER<br />
If you’re looking for an ice-cold beer on a<br />
summer’s evening by the Caspian Sea, then<br />
Khirdalan (Xirdalan in Azerbaijani) is the<br />
ideal option. This most popular of local lagers<br />
is brewed in the Baku suburb of Khirdalan and<br />
has a golden colour, light body and sweetish<br />
aftertaste.<br />
Şərəfə!<br />
Cheers!<br />
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Experience<br />
Azerbaijan’s<br />
summer<br />
vibe<br />
THE FOOD<br />
Watermelon and cheese is admittedly an<br />
unusual combination but one that’s really<br />
popular among Azerbaijanis on the Caspian<br />
coast in summer. All you need is seasonally<br />
fresh watermelon and white cheese which<br />
you slice into chunks. In Azerbaijan people<br />
like to consume it with freshly baked bread<br />
from a clay tandir oven, which is also readily<br />
available. The trio is cheap, simple and surprisingly<br />
delicious!<br />
One of the favourite summer activities in Azerbaijan is enjoying<br />
amazing moments on the golden sands of the Caspian seashore<br />
on warm sunny days. All you need is great company, local music<br />
and some light and cool food and drinks. Here are some simple<br />
ingredients to help you recreate the experience.<br />
THE DRINK<br />
Sherbet<br />
comes in many flavours, but<br />
here’s a recipe to make the<br />
popular basil variety at home:<br />
1 litre of pure drinking water<br />
8-10 stalks of purple basil<br />
6-10 tablespoons of sugar<br />
Juice of ½-1 lemon<br />
Peel of ½ lemon<br />
3 clove buds<br />
½ stick of cinnamon<br />
Step 1: Bring the water to boil,<br />
add the cinnamon, clove and<br />
sugar and cook for 15 minutes.<br />
Then take off the heat and<br />
add lemon juice.<br />
Step 2: Add finely chopped<br />
lemon peel to the jug and<br />
pour in the piquant herbal<br />
brew. Mix and then leave for<br />
at least 2 hours but ideally<br />
8-12.<br />
Step 3: The sherbet will take<br />
on a lovely saturated colour<br />
and aroma. Once it’s ready,<br />
strain out the liquid and pour<br />
into glasses.<br />
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THIS SUMMER<br />
REJUVENATE YOUR<br />
ENERGY AT SHAHDAG!<br />
Shahdag Mountain Resort is the first and the largest mountain tourism spot of Azerbaijan.<br />
THE MUSIC<br />
and winter. With its budget category to world class 5 star hotels, hiking, camping and<br />
dozens of other outdoor sport activities, exceptional gastronomic experience and<br />
award-winning OVDAN SPA that will refresh your soul, Shahdag Mountain Resort promises<br />
an unforgettable summer getaway full of memories.<br />
For picnics, people also take with them fresh fruits and<br />
vegetables, wine or beer, and a guitar to sing with friends.<br />
Scan this QR code to listen to some Azerbaijani jazz by<br />
Vagif Mustafazade, who is considered the father of jazz<br />
in Azerbaijan. His composition Soul in Love will take you<br />
to Azerbaijan!<br />
KP29, Gusar – Laza motoroad, Azerbaijan<br />
1110, +994 12 310 1110<br />
reservations@shahdag.az<br />
shahdag.resort<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 47<br />
www.shahdag.az<br />
shahdagresort
ExperienceAZE<br />
experienceazerbaijan<br />
podcast.azerbaijan.travel<br />
azerbaijan.travel<br />
Scan the QR code to download the guide.<br />
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