TravelWorld International Magazine - Fall 2021

FALL 2021
The Colorado River
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE
The Beauty of Fall
The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor
TravelWorld International Magazine
is the only magazine that showcases
the member talents of the
North American
Travel Journalists Association
FALL
2021
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
Finally Fall!
As the time for sun loving, beach going, surf and tide worshipping
begins to ebb ... a crisp, cool turn in the air is just around the
corner ... and a welcome change to many! As temperatures drop
colors begin changing, becoming more vivid in contrasting hues of
reds, oranges and golds against azure blue skies with puffy white
clouds! Days become shorter as nights become colder and the
warnth of home fireplaces bring charm and coziness at twilight.
Mornings are fresh and crisp and after a hot cup of coffee and
just-baked muffin, (complete with fall spices such as pumpkin,
cinammon, apples and cloves), a new energy abounds with a
surge of excitement to get out and see the world!
If this hasn’t inspired you to look forward to Fall, then just
continue reading this issue which is absolutely chalk full of
interesting stories and fabulous photography depicting the
wonders of the season! Besides criss-crossing many states, this
issue also takes you far beyond our shores to Germany, Vietnam,
Seoul, South Korea, and the Galapagos Islands!
Enjoy! Be inspired! Savor the Beauty of Fall!
Joy Bushmeyer,
Editor
Group Publisher:
Publishers:
VP Operations:
Editor:
NATJA Publications
Helen Hernandez &
Bennett W. Root, Jr.
Yanira Leon
Joy Bushmeyer
Contributing Writers & Photographers:
Melissa Adams
John Gottberg Anderson
Sandra Bornstein
Jennifer Crites
Chris Cutler
Rich Grant
Alex Kallimanis
Mary Lu Laffey
Kathryn Reed
Debbie Stone
DMO Contributors:
Aggressor Adventures
DCI Tourism
Discover Newport, Rhode Island
Indiana State Nature Passport
Kansas Tourism
Visit Kitsap, Washington
Editorial /Advertising Offices:
TravelWorld International Magazine
3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744
Pasadena, CA 91107
Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854
www.travelworldmagazine.com
The Beauty of Fall
50 Shades of Fall in Vibrant Vermont Melissa Adams 6
Color Peeping in Southern Utah Christine Cutler 12
Seven Ways to See Fall in Colorado Rich Grant 16
Bewitched by Salem Debbie Stone 24
From Heidelberg, Germany to Happy Valley, Pennsylvania Alex Kallimanis 30
6
16
12
2
Cover Photo
I-70 follows the Colorado River through the
western part of the state and puts on a fall
show with bright cottonwoods lining the
banks almost the entire way.
Cover Photo of the Colorado River by
RICH GRANT
Volume 2021.03 Fall 2021. Copyright ©2021 by NATJA
Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction
in whole or in part without written permission is
prohibited. Advertising rates and information sent
upon request. Acceptance of advertising in TravelWorld
International Magazine in no way constitutes approval
or endorsement by NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do
products or services advertised. NATJA Publications
and TravelWorld International Magazine reserve the
right to reject any advertising. Opinions expressed by
authors are their own and not necessarily those of Travel
World International Magazine or NATJA Publications.
TravelWorld International Magazine reserves the
right to edit all contributions for clarity and length,
as well as to reject any material submitted, and is
not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts. This
periodical’s name and logo along with the various
titles and headings therein, are trademarks of
NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.
24 30
3

FALL
2021
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
newport
RHODE ISLAND
The Beauty of Fall
Mother Nature’s Lifecycle at Marlette Lake Kathryn Reed 34
Fall Color in the Midwest: The Big Reveal Mary Lu Laffey 36
Vietnam’s Idyllic Phu Quoc Island John Gottberg Anderson 42
You Gotta Have Seoul Jennifer Crites 46
A Superb Gallapagos Islands Autumn Adventure Sandra Bornstein 52
34
36
42
46 52
Newport: Where the buzz of summer gently fades
to cool amber days and crisp, cozy nights.
Fall on The Classic Coast is on, are you in?
4
DiscoverNewport.org
5

Fall Colors!
There’s no better artist
than Nature when fall
rolls around in rural VT.
Nicknamed “The Big Eddy,” the
Waitsfield Covered Bridge
crosses the Mad River in
Waitsfield, VT. In 1974,
it was listed in the
National Register
of Historic
Places.
The weathered timbers of
the Taftsville Covered Bridge
support not only local traffic,
but also thousands of visitors
in fall foliage season.
50 Shades of Fall in
Vibrant Vermont
Story and Photos by Melissa Adams
hile only Mother Nature can
predict when autumn’s jawdropping
colors will first appear, or
when they will peak, Vermont’s landscape
usually begins to transform around mid-
September. Within a few weeks, fiery autumnal
shades have replaced summer’s lush greenery.
Over a two-to three-week window after the first
leaves turn, usually in northern Vermont, every
hillside and mountaintop across the state dazzles
with fall splendor. It’s enough to attract leaf
peepers and shutterbugs from around the globe,
who descend in droves to capture quintessential
fall scenes from September through October.
ew regions in America are more
glorious in autumn than rural New
England. Known for its colonial past,
Atlantic coastline, forested mountains,
and dazzling fall foliage, it’s a realm of
covered bridges, country inns, weathered barns,
18th-century farmhouses, mountain lakes, and
maple syrup. When autumn rolls around, the
six-state region explodes in radiant shades of rust,
amber, and tangerine.
Within this northeast corner of the country,
Vermont boasts the highest percentage of majestic
maples—the trees that erupt in fall color. Threequarters
of the tiny, sparsely populated state is
covered in forest, fostering the bucolic ambiance
of country roads that wind through groves of tall
trees. But towering evergreens take a back seat in
the scheme of pastoral grandeur when the first
blush of fall hits. Indeed, sometimes you literally
can’t see the forest for the palette of blazing trees.
Spanning the Ottauquechee River in Woodstock,
VT, the Taftsville Covered Bridge was built in 1836,
making it one of the oldest in New England.
115-acre Sleepy Hollow Farm in bucolic
Pomfret, VT is a magnet for shutterbugs.
It’s now owned by Aerosmith guitarist
Joe Perry and his wife, Billie.
6
7

f you’re
considering
an autumn
visit to this
neon-lit neck of
the woods, the latest
fall foliage updates will help
you track Nature’s artistry.
After Labor Day weekend,
Vermont’s Department of
Tourism provides weekly
reports, with input from the
state’s volunteer Leaf Squad, at
Weathered red
barns, winding
country roads,
and jaw-dropping
fall foliage are
hallmarks of VT.
Tiny Peacham was founded in
1776, meaning some of the souls
in Groton/Peacham Cemetery
could be centuries-old.
www.vermont.com/foliage.cfm
Pick up some amber jars of syrupy,
tree-to-table goodness at Mom &
Pop’s roadside stand near Moss
Glen Falls in Granville, VT.
The ivory spire of Peacham Congregational Church in tiny Peacham, VT
stands out against a backdrop of fall foliage.
RIKKER POND
Nature’s fireworks
explode on the shores
of Ricker Pond in VT’s
27,000-acre Groton
State Forest.
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Red and
yellow
aspens
decorate a
trail near
Cedar City
Red leaves stand against
the red rocks of Zion.
A fence made
of aspen
trunks lines a
field outside of
Duck Creek.
Color Peeping in
Southern Utah
Story and Photos by Christine Cutler
Close-up of
an aspen
trunk shows
delicate bark.
Aspens grow
among the
pines in Dixie
National
Forest..
The desert southwest has a beauty all of its own. Crystalline
blue skies hover above red rocks as cacti and palm trees
stretch toward them. Desert dandelions and marigolds,
California poppies and golden suncups, and desert lavender
and sand verbena stand out against the terracotta and
umber landscape in spring and summer.
I lived almost a third of my life in Las Vegas, and that desert
always mesmerized me. I will admit, though, that when the
colors faded in autumn and left an earthtone blanket under
the skies, I missed watching leaves change colors. Autumn
was the time we would head to southern Utah to leaf peep.
While Utah doesn’t have maple, sycamore, and ash trees that
12
you’ll find in the northeast United States, it does have quaking
aspens, scrub oak, and cottonwoods that paint the landscape
for a few weeks each fall.
Color season in southern Utah is an amazing time of year.
Predicting exactly when is prime color time is difficult, but
you can check a number of fall foliage guides to help you plan
your trip. The Smokey Mountain Interactive Map is a good
reference, and the Farmers’ Almanac is another.
Should you plan a trip to southern Utah this year, be sure to
check out three of my favorite spots to enjoy the changing
seasons.
Golden
shrubs and
plants adorn
the shores of
a creek near
Duck Creek.
13

Zion National Park
Located in southwest Utah, Zion National Park covers 146,597 acres of forested plateaus, massive sandstone cliffs, wide
desert plains, slot canyons, rivers, and streams. While driving through the park is limited, you can catch a shuttle to visit Zion
Canyon. The canyon, which is 15 miles long and 3000 feet deep at points, is the heart of the park.
There are many hiking trails throughout the park, and you can find one to suit every skill set. For those desiring an easy hike,
check out the two-plus-mile Emerald Pools Trail. The uphill trek to Angel’s Landing is a strenuous four-plus-miles that starts
relatively easily but quickly brings hikers higher through a series of 21 switchbacks. Scout Lookout, which you’ll reach after
the last switchback, offers a great view of the canyon. At this point, you can turn around, as we did, or continue on the narrow
trail along the ridge to reach Angel’s Landing at an elevation of almost 5800 feet. Note: There are chains to help you along the
ridge, but there are no guardrails at the top.
I do prefer the more gentle walks because I can concentrate more on the world around me than on not rolling off of a
mountain. Watchman’s Trail, just inside the park from the Springdale entrance, is an easy three-mile round-trip hike.
Aspens grow
among the
pines in Dixie
National
Forest.
Low shrubs
of gold line
a creek.
Cedar City
Located about three hours north of Las Vegas, Cedar City is home to Southern Utah University, the Utah Shakespeare Festival,
and the Utah Summer Games. A small town surrounded by grand natural beauty, Cedar City and the surrounding area are
full of scenic byways that offer breathtaking views. Easily accessible from Cedar City are Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, Kolob
Canyon, Lake Powell, Zion National Park, and Brian Head.
Head to Brian Head for a bit of adventure after you peep at the leaves. It offers adventure seekers fun during every season.
During the winter, Brian Head has 71 runs for skiers of all levels. During the summer and fall, though, it offers 200 miles of
backcountry and downhill trails for hikers and mountain bikers.
Duck Creek Village
The small community of Duck Creek sits on Cedar Mountain near Brian Head and Cedar Breaks National Monument. The
town was the setting of several movies (including National Velvet) and television shows (How the West Was Won and Daniel
Boone).
Surrounding Duck Creek Village is the Dixie National Forest, which is, at 2,000,000 acres, Utah’s largest national forest.
The forest’s altitude varies greatly (from 2800 feet to more than 11,000+ feet) as do the plants that inhabit the forest. Lower
elevation shrubs include juniper and sagebrush, while aspens, pine, and spruce grow higher up. The aspens light up the forest
with color during autumn.
When you’re not searching for color, you can hike one of the many trails in the area to check out Cedar Breaks
National Monument, Mammoth or Ice Cave, or Navajo Lake. The lake also offers boating, swimming and trout fishing.
With so many things to do and experience, southern Utah is a great place
to take in the colors that decorate autumn and the activities that go with it.
Golden foliage dots
the landscape along
the Virgin River.
14
15

Story and Photos by Rich Grant
The gondolas in Telluride are free and
make an excellent way to see fall colors.
Telluride’s free gondolas offer
magnificent views in all directions.
It’s not hard to find fall
colors in Colorado.
There are more than two
million acres of aspen trees
in the state -- one billion
trees. If placed together, they
would cover Rhode Island and
Delaware. Add Colorado’s
riverbanks, which are lined
with cottonwoods (the close
cousin of aspens and just as
brilliant yellow) and all the
reds, burnt orange and gold of
hardwood maples, oaks and
locust down on the high plains
east of the Rockies, and you’ll
discover that fall in Colorado
is one giant firework display
of color. And the show lasts
a long time. The high country
aspens turn in mid-September;
the hardwoods of Denver put
on a spectacle until Halloween
and beyond.
1. FROM A GONDOLA IN TELLURIDE
The narrow, steep valley leading to Telluride is ablaze with fall colors. The paved road ends here in this box canyon,
and unless you have a jeep and a lot of nerve, there is nowhere else to go. Telluride is famous for its “end-of-the-world”
feeling. And for its free gondolas. There’s a series of them that climb from the historic old town to the modern resort,
and then on to other resort bases. You can ride the gondolas endlessly for free over a sea of gold aspens that run to the
horizon in all directions.
View of the San Juan Mountains in
fall from the gondola in Telluride.
So it’s easy to find fall colors –
but how you do it is the trick.
HERE ARE SEVEN SUGGESTIONS:
The Maroon Bells at dawn lives up
16
to the hype and is a magnificent sight.
17

Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park
on the way to Mills Lake.
Alberta Falls, Rocky Mountain National
Park is a wonderful hike through aspens.
The Cumbres & Toltec steams through
forests of aspen trees crossing the border
of Colorado and New Mexico 11 times as it
chugs through the Rocky Mountains.
The Cumbres & Toltec is
especially pretty in the fall when
it steams through mile after mile
of colorful changing aspen trees
2. FROM A TRAIN PULLED BY A STEAM LOCOMOTIVE
The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is the highest, longest and most authentic steam train ride in America, chugging for
64 miles between Antonito CO and Chama NM through a forest of aspens. The railroad crosses state borders 11 times,
and travels for hours through bright yellow and gold trees, hanging along the lip of a gorge, burrowing through tunnels, and
crossing trestles over roaring rivers. Passengers can ride outside in a gondola car, where aspen leaves will fall from above,
mixed with smoke and the smell of coal and the haunting sound of a steam whistle. It’s the ultimate bucket list trip for those
with railroading in their blood.
The Cumbres & Toltec steaming
out of Antonito, Colorado
towards Hangman’s Bridge,
where local tales have it that an
outlaw was once hanged.
3. HIKE THROUGH A FOREST
Put together by the state, the Colorado Trail Explorer Map shows how to find and walk 17,099 trails and 1,432
trailheads. Google it and start hiking. You can’t go wrong in the resort towns of Vail and Beaver Creek, where European-style
pedestrian villages are lined with chic shops and outdoor cafes and surrounded by trails into mountainsides of glowing aspens.
Many old railroad lines
are today through dirt
roads perfect for biking,
like this one above
Georgetown, Colorado.
Biking is a popular way
to see Bootleg Bottom in
Golden Gate Canyon State Park
near Golden, Colorado
4. BIKE THROUGH A FOREST
18
The same Colorado Trail Explorer Map shows 6,821 miles of mountain bike trails and 1,746 miles of paved bike
trails in Colorado. Summit County is the biking capital with paved trails through aspens connecting the resorts of
Breckenridge, Keystone, Frisco and Copper Mountain. You can easily bike from resort to resort along streams, a
round Lake Dillon, and through groves of aspens. Have lunch in one of the cute towns, and if you’re lazy,
throw your bike on a free shuttle bus that connects all the towns.
20

Colorful aspens are everywhere in the
appropriately named, Aspen, Colorado.
Colorado is
filled with
country
roads
lined with
aspens.
The Maroon Bells near
Aspen, Colorado, very
near the parking lot at
7am, can be packed with
photographers, but they
soon disappear after
getting their photo.
5. DRIVE THROUGH FALL COLORS
Few interstate highways are scenic roads, but I-70 through Colorado is. From the moment you leave Denver until you get
to Utah driving west, there is an array of colorful aspens as you climb up to and down from Eisenhower Tunnel, which at
11,000 feet is the highest in North America. On the western slope, follow the cottonwoods as the highway snakes along
the curving headwaters of the Colorado River as it twists and turns towards its final destiny in the Grand Canyon.
I-70 follows the Colorado River
through the western part of the
state and puts on a fall show with
bright cottonwoods lining the
banks almost the entire way.
Pretty Clear Creek flows through the heart of the
historic Golden, Colorado. The trail along its
banks is one of the most popular in the Denver
area with many places to sit and watch the world
and the river go by.
20
6. SIT BY A RIVER
You can do this almost anywhere in Colorado, but nowhere is prettier than the appropriately named Golden.
Just 12 miles from Denver, pretty Clear Creek flows through the town, with a wonderful paved trail that follows
the creek up into the mountains, much of it lined with vibrant cottonwoods. Looking for more gold and amber?
There are six outdoor craft beer gardens in Golden, which brews more beer than any other town in the world.
7. SEE ASPENS BY SUNRISE
The ultimate fall experience in Colorado is to see and photograph sunrise over the Maroon Bells near
Aspen. It’s also the most crowded, requiring -- to be safe -- a 5 am arrival. There are a few parking spots,
and when they are gone, you have to take a later shuttle bus. Expect crowds of photographers line the
lake, and don’t accidently walk into someone else’s frame unless you want a fight. This is serious, calendarphotography
business. But as soon as the sun is up, everyone disappears on hikes, there’s plenty of room to
stretch your legs along a creek lined with beaver dams. As a reward, you’ll learn what only a relatively few
people know. The hype is real. Sunrise over the Maroon Bells is a moment you will never forget.
21

Breckenridge, Colorado
is alive with flowers
during the fall.
Historic
Breckenridge,
Colorado
offers a burst
of color in the
fall with flower
baskets still
overflowing
and aspens
turning
brilliant gold.
Mount Baker Theatre
BRECKENRIDGE
Stay Awhile.
Attend.
Beaver Creek,
Colorado, is
surrounded
by aspens and
hiking trails.
In Beaver
Creek
summer
flowers
like aspens
are
turning gold
in September.
Savor.
Schooner Zodiac
BEAVER CREEK
Flower
baskets
decorate
Frisco.
Adventure.
Kayaking
is popular
in Frisco.
22
FRISCO IN SUMMIT COUNTY
Bellewood Acres
Taste.
Get Inspired!
See explorations by a famous world traveler at:
bellingham.org/RickSteves
@BellinghamExperience
THE STATE OF WASHINGTON
23

Bewitched
by
Salem
For an overview of the town, take
a narrated tour on the Salem
Trolley. In one hour, you’ll get a
crash course on nearly 400 years
of history. Your guide will point
out various buildings, homes,
shops and statues, providing
context to each. You’ll ooh and
aah as you drive by the massive,
stately Federal style mansions in the
Chestnut Street District. Designed by Samuel
McIntire, known as the “architect of Salem,”
these handsome beauties are very photogenic.
Salem Trolley
Story and Photos by Debbie Stone
The first tarot card
the psychic at
Pentagram turned
over was a sun, which I was
told signifies optimism and
success. She then proceeded
to tell me I would have
several opportunities coming
my way soon. One would be
career related, the other
not. And a third was going to
be a distraction I shouldn’t
undertake. Other cards she
chose indicated good health
and awareness, as well as
increasing strength in the
wake of grief. She was right
on the mark with this one,
as my father passed away
last fall.
It was an auspicious start
to my visit to Salem, one of
our country’s most historic
towns and a destination I
had tried to visit twice
last year. Three times
really was the charm.
Most visitors to Salem
are drawn to its wellknown
witch lore.
They come to see the
attractions that focus
on a very dark period
of the city’s past.
Along the way, however,
they discover that this
special place is a manyfaceted
destination.
You’ll also pass by the Ye Olde Pepper Candy
Shop. Put it on your list to visit, as it’s
the oldest candy store in the country and
you’ll definitely want a tasty souvenir.
At nearby Winter Island, there are bunkers
that stored ammo during WWII, as the place
served as a military installation. Get your
leis ready as you drive by the island’s own
Waikiki Beach, sans the tropical breezes.
I also highly recommend doing the A.M.
Coffee Walk with Salem Food Tours. Owner
Karen Scalia combines her passion for food
with history, and gives a great orientation
to the city’s past and present. She is a
wealth of knowledge and has the inside scoop
on all things Salem.
You might be surprised to learn that
Salem is a town of firsts. The country’s
first millionaire, Elias Derby, was from
here and this is where Alexander Graham
Bell completed the first successful longdistance
telephone call. Salem is also the
birthplace of the U.S. National Guard and
it’s where Parker Brothers produced the game
“Monopoly.”
Custom House
SStately homes on Chestnut Street
The Coffee Walk covers Salem’s spice
history, too – a period that spanned the end
of the American Revolution to the War of
1812. Thanks to Captain Jonathan Carnes, who
sailed into town from Indonesia with a load
of pepper, Salem became the center of the
spice trade in North America. To conclude
the tour, you’ll visit Salem Spice for a
spice and olive oil tasting session.
24
Psychic reading with tarot cards
Get your palm read at Pentagram
Spice tastings at Salem
Taste with Karen Scalia
of Salem Food Tours
Lighthouse on
Winter Island
25

Salem’s most popular
witch trial-related
attractions are
the Witch Museum, Witch
Dungeon Museum, Witch
Trials Memorial and
Witch House. It’s hard
not to notice the Witch
Museum, as the building,
an historic church,
is very imposing. The
museum was created to
help people understand
the true story behind
the events of 1692.
26
The witch trials were
incited by mass hysteria
among the area’s deeply
religious populace
regarding witchcraft
Salem Witch Museum
in their communities.
Two young girls started
the chain reaction
after demonstrating
uncontrollable fits of
rage. A doctor diagnosed
witchcraft as a possible
aliment. Fingers were
pointed and within months,
nearly 200 people were
accused of the crime of
witchcraft. Nineteen
of the condemned were
executed by hanging and
one was pressed to death
by stones. Several others
died in prison awaiting
their fate.
In the first part of the
museum, you’ll sit in a
darkened room and watch
the aforementioned events
unfold on life-size
stage sets, offering an
immersive presentation.
The second part of the
museum delves into the
development of witchcraft
beliefs in Europe, the
evolution of the image of
witches, and then focuses
on the terrifying aspects
of modern-day witchhunts.
In the Witch Dungeon
Museum, you’ll observe
a live reenactment of
an actual witch trial,
followed by a guided tour
of a recreated dungeon
with all its abject
conditions.
T
he Witch
House is the
17th century
home of Witch
Trials Judge
Jonathan Corwin, who
lived here with his
family for over forty
years. It is the
town’s only remaining
structure with direct
connection to the
terrible events of
1692 and, as such,
is one of Salem’s
most recognizable
and photographed
buildings. Contrary to
its name, there were
never any convicted
or accused witches
living in this house.
The place, however,
is rumored to be
haunted.
I was most impacted
by the Witch Trials
Memorial. The memorial
is strikingly
simple, yet powerful.
At the entrance
are inscriptions
in stone of the
victims’ protests
of innocence. A
granite wall creates
a perimeter, within
which are stone
benches bearing the
names and execution
dates of each of the
twenty victims. It’s
an enduring tribute
to these individuals,
who chose death rather
than compromise their
personal truths.
Salem Witch House
Salem Witch
Memorial
Spooky Salem comes alive on the Haunt and History Tour
27

Two of my favorite nonrelatedwitch
attractions in Salem are
the House of Seven Gables and the
Peabody Essex Museum. The House of Seven
Gables is a colonial, large timber-framed
home (circa 1668) that is best known for
being the setting for author Nathaniel
Hawthorne’s celebrated novel of the same
name.
A Salem citizen, Hawthorne spent his
formative years living in the community
before returning to it later in his life.
The town and its history had a profound
impact on him and served as inspiration
for several his books. Interesting to
learn is that the author was so ashamed
of his Puritan ancestors and their
unsavory actions that he changed his name
from Hathorne to Hawthorne to distance
himself from them.
The site, which also includes Hawthorne’s
birthplace, is designated a National
Historic Landmark District. Take time
to meander around the lush grounds and
admire the seaside view.
The Peabody Essex, which is centered on
the historic East Marine Hall of 1825,
has the distinction of being the oldest,
continuously operating and collecting
museum in the U.S. It possesses a
staggering number of works of art and
culture, from Maritime and American art
to Asian and African collections, and
boasts the only complete Qing Dynasty
house outside China.
The museum’s collection of “Salem
Stories” is especially noteworthy. It’s
a compilation of vignettes about the
people, places and events that shaped
the area, with paintings, manuscripts,
artifacts, even a specimen of an ancient
leatherback turtle, and more.
You’ll definitely work up an appetite
seeing all the sights in Salem. Good to
know that the town has a vibrant culinary
scene. Seafood reigns supreme, which was
music to my palette.
28
Gardens at the House of the Seven Gables
East India Marine Hall now part of the
Peabody Essex Museum
Peabody Essex Museum
Lobster grilled cheese and clam
chowder at Red’s Sandwich Shop
C
howder and lobster are
mainstays on many menus
in town. Red’s Sandwich Shop
has a Lobster Mania selection,
where you’ll find this
tasty crustacean in rolls,
quesadillas, grilled cheese
sandwiches, mac n’ cheese,
on pizzas and in sliders.
Decisions, decisions!
As we strolled the
streets, our guide
regaled us with
spooky legends and
purported hauntings
of various buildings in town.
It was a full moon that night,
which heightened the eerie
quality to the experience and
upped the goosebump ante.
You can shop till you drop in
Salem, especially if you’re
looking for magic and occultthemed
items, or Halloween
merchandise. Harry Potter fans
will want to make a beeline
for Wynott’s Wands, where
handcrafted magic wands have
been elevated to an artform.
And there’s no shortage of
psychics in town, who will be
happy to do a reading for you.
When it comes to
accommodations, you’ll be
pleased to know that Salem
has a variety of options.
I chose to stay at the
historic Hawthorne Hotel,
an iconic, Colonial Revival
style property that has been
a landmark in town for a
century.
Risotto
with
shrimp at
Adriatic
I had memorable dinners at
both Turner’s Seafood at
Lyceum Hall and the Adriatic
Restaurant. At Turner’s,
it’s all about New England
fresh catch of the day fare.
Offerings are extensive with
everything from stuffed
shrimp and sashimi to fish
cakes and crab pie.
Magic wands at Wynott’s Wands
Broomsticks for sale at Pentagram
Hawthorne Hotel lobby
Turner’s Seafood
Mediterranean-inspired
fare is the specialty at
inviting Adriatic. The
menu features delicious
brick oven pizzas, pastas
and fresh seafood. After
dinner, walk off your meal
on one of Salem Night
Tours’ “Haunt and History
Tour.”
Over the years, the place
has attracted numerous
celebs and former
presidents. But its fame
really skyrocketed when the
cast of the popular T.V.
show, “Bewitched,” stayed
at the hotel to film scenes
for “The Salem Saga.” There
are framed photos of the
event and even of the menu
created by the hotel’s
chef to commemorate the
occasion, with such dishes
as Green Goulish Stew (fish
chowder), Fried Salamander
(fried shrimp) and Eye of
Newt Ambrosia (zucchini
squash).
If you go:
www.salem.org
Bewitched statue
29

Overlooking Heidelberg,
Germany from the top of
the Philosophers Walk,
including Heidelberg
Castle above the Old
Town and the Karl
Theodore Bridge.
FALL FOLIAGE TRAVELS
IN CELEBRATION OF OKTOBERFEST
Story and Photos by Alex Kallimanis
at Wanderlust Marriage Travel
Cucumber
Falls in
Ohiopyle State
Park in Laurel
Highlands,
Pennsylvania.
30
View of autumn foliage from atop
7 Springs Mountain Resort in
Laurel Highlands, Pennsylvania
From Heidelberg, Germany
To Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Fallingwater,
designed by
famed architect
Frank Lloyd
Wright is just
the second
UNESCO World
Heritage site in
Pennsylvania,
joining the
Liberty Bell in
Philadelphia.
autumn is a frequently
wonderful season for travel,
as it is void of huge crowds
found during summer
and the holidays. Amid
generally pleasant early
October temperatures, fall foliage
dazzles us with colors that evoke
childhood memories of a fruit loops
bowl. Fall is also a wonderful time of
year to join our German friends around
the world in raising a glass of beer to
celebrate Oktoberfest.
One of my favorite German destinations
for autumn foliage, scenic vistas
and hopping eateries is Heidelberg,
Germany. Just an hour train ride from
Frankfurt, the town is delightfully
nestled in a picturesque valley. Hike
the philosopher’s trail, on the northern
banks of the Neckar River to enjoy
a dramatic view overlooking The
Karl Theodore Bridge, Old Town and
Heidelberg Castle. Heidelberg University
is Germany’s oldest university. It was
founded in 1386 on instruction of Pope
Urban VI.
Find a cozy Heidelberg restaurant like
Weinstube Schnitzelbank to enjoy a
mouth-watering schnitzel and a smooth
German brew. Beers in Germany are
protected from additives thanks to the
“Reinheitsgebot”, a beer-purity law
which was introduced in 1516 by Duke
Wilhelm IV of Bavaria. The decree
allows for only hops, barley, water and
yeast to be included in beer. While the
decree originally only covered Bavaria,
it has been the law throughout Germany
for the past century.
Rest your head at the charming
and centrally located Kulturbrauerie
Heidelberg, which is both a hotel and
beerhouse.
Across the Atlantic, at a slightly, lower
latitude, with an influence from German
immigrants, are the Laurel Highlands of
Pennsylvania. Located in southwestern
Pennsylvania, the Laurel Highlands
region is a great vacation destination
with outdoor recreation options, historic
sites and wonderful resorts. The state
of Pennsylvania is home to 3.5 million
people of German ancestry - making it
a popular destination for breweries and
beer festivals.
My wife and I enjoyed staying at Seven
Springs Mountain Resort during their
annual autumn festival, which features
live music, a petting zoo, goat yoga,
artisan vendors and beer tastings.
Guests can enjoy a variety of onsite
activities like golf, bowling, rock
climbing, zip lining and an alpine slide.
Their on-site Bavarian Lounge offers
sweeping views of the slopes and tasty
craft beers from Pennsylvania brewers
and beyond.
Seven Springs Golf Course highlights
the picturesque beauty of the Laurel
Highlands with mountain vistas
throughout a tree-lined course atop
rolling hills. It is so peacefully walkable
that I hardly minded searching for my
missing balls around the trees. Sweeping
views of autumn foliage offer a dramatic
backdrop to an early October round.
Ohiopyle State Park is home to
Cucumber Falls. Cascading over a
30-foot drop, they’re one of the most
beautiful waterfalls in Pennsylvania.
Another popular Laurel Highlands
highlight is legendary architect Frank
Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater. In 2019,
it became the second UNESCO site in
Pennsylvania, joining Philadelphia’s
Independence Hall.
German settlers built homes and opened
businesses throughout the Appalachian
Valley. Travel 200 miles south and you’ll
arrive at Shenandoah National Park.
Skyline Drive runs the length of
Shenandoah National Park, which
merges with the Blue Ridge Parkway. A
vast-network of trails offer picturesque
hiking opportunities, including a section
of the popular Appalachian Trail. The
park includes rocky peaks, waterfalls
and wetlands among its mostly forested
terrain. Shenandoah National Park is
home to black bears, deer, squirrels and a
variety of birds.
Shenandoah National Park features
several great options to stay during a
fall visit. Big Meadows Lodge is a rustic
lodge offering gorgeous views of the
Shenandoah Valley. The lodge features
basic rooms to spacious cabins, a
delicious on-site restaurant and even a
craft beer taproom.
Staunton is a charming base to explore
Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley and the Blue
Ridge Mountains. Staunton is home to
The American Shakespeare Center, the
world’s only recreation of Shakespeare’s
Blackfriars Theatre in London. Another
highlight of Staunton is the Woodrow
Wilson Presidential Library and Museum.
Downtown Staunton is packed with great
independent restaurants, boutique shops,
art galleries and craft breweries. Relax
at Red Beard Brewing over a selection
of delicious, internationally inspired
brews. The Stonewall Jackson Hotel and
Blackburn Inn are both great places to
stay in Staunton, as they’re part of the
Historic Hotels of America.
This October, I’m looking forward to
visiting State College, a college town
nestled in Happy Valley, between the
mountains (like Heidelberg, Germany),
and home to Penn State University. I
eagerly await visits of autumn foliage and
craft beers to celebrate Oktoberfest.
The American Shakespeare Center
in Staunton, Virginia is the world’s
only recreation of Shakespeare’s
Blackfriars Theatre in London.
31

3 in
Great Destinations
Central Missouri
Grammy-winner Sheryl Crow headlines the 2021
Roots n Blues Festival in Columbia, Mo.
HUNTSVILLE
is aGO
for re-entry.
Winston Churchill made history in Fulton, Mo when
he delivered his "Iron Curtain" speech in 1946.
*
Home to Space Camp
Home to Space Camp ®
and the world’s largest
space museum at the U.S.
Space & Rocket Center,
Huntsville, Alabama,
has space - space to play,
explore, and more.
The Lake of the Ozarks Golf Trail features 13
incredible courses at 1 unforgettable destination.
Blast off on your
next adventure in the
Rocket City!
32
We’d love to host you! Let’s start planning your customized press trip to
Columbia, Fulton and Lake of the Ozarks. Contact Jo Duncan at
Jo@TBWGroup.net or by calling 573-636-8282.
@HuntsvilleCVB @visithuntsvilleal @Go2HuntsvilleAL huntsville.org
500 Church Street NW, Suite One, Huntsville, AL 35801 | 800–SPACE–4–U
Downtown Visitor Center Hours: Monday–Saturday 9am–3pm Sunday 12pm–3pm
33

Mother Nature’s Lifecycle
At Marlette Lake
Through a Hiker’s Eyes
Story and Photos by
Kathryn Reed
34
Autumn has such a distinct
scent. You know it when you
smell it. All along the trail to
Marlette Lake on the East Shore
of Lake Tahoe I kept taking deep
breaths. While it is really death
that is in the air, the power of it
gave me energy. Perhaps seeing
the power of
Mother Nature
cycle through life
and death with
such relative
ease made me
jealous. We
humans have
such a difficult
time with such
monumental
things as death.
But Mother
Nature, well,
she seems to
embrace each
season.
Aspens really did
seem to quake in
the gentle breeze.
Shimmering in the vibrant sun on
this rather warm fall day, it was
hard to know if the leaves were
hanging on for dear life or trying
to shake free to move on. It was
like a painter’s palette—all these
shades of green, yellow and
orange decorating the landscape.
A woman on the trail said she
was out three days earlier and
noted how much more color
there was now. She’s what a
New Englander would call a “leaf
peeper” because of her ardent
interest in the fall colors and
desire to see them at different
stages.
The abundance of green proves
the peak was still to come …
Aspen medallions dangle from a tree.
maybe even that week.
Temperatures, wind and moisture
play a role in all of this leaf
changing business.
It’s such a ritual on the East Coast
that foliage is tracked for when
best to see it. Even the National
Weather Service has a color meter.
Mostly it’s aspens along the route
to Marlette Lake, though this is not
the only flora turning color.
So many people were out—and
many with their dogs. But we
didn’t mind. Everyone was friendly.
Those of us with cameras seemed
to play a game of leapfrog as we
kept passing one another.
Instead of taking the North Canyon
Trail, we took
the Marlette
Trail. It’s
narrower and
is not open
to mountain
bikers. While
we didn’t see
any horses
along the way,
we saw plenty
of evidence
they had
been out that
afternoon.
We aren’t
sure how far
we went. The
sign starting
at the trail on
the Spooner
Summit side says its 3.75 miles to
Marlette Lake. The sign at Marlette
says it’s 4.5 miles to get back.
Along the way we saw people with
shirts that said, “Hike for Beer”
and finally asked about it. There
was beer for sale at the lake. We
saw people walking back with
cups of beer.
This was an excursion about
foliage, and we were not
disappointed.
Marlette Lake is decorated with
various shades of aspen leaves.
Aspens line the trail to Marlette Lake on
the East Shore of Lake Tahoe in Nevada.
35

Fall Color in the Midwest:
The Big Reveal
Autumn arrives in the Midwest without the fanfare of spring storms.
Ditto for summer’s heat waves or the nostalgia associated with winter holidays.
One day the treetops are as green as can be, and then? The Big Reveal of brilliant Technicolor.
Find great colors in any of the Breadbasket states or take a road trip to see what’s going on in other necks of the woods, like
INDIANA, MISSOURI, OHIO and WISCONSIN.
INDIANA
Story by Mary Lu Laffey
MISSOURI
Through early November, the hardwood forests that line the
Lake of the Ozarks in Central Missouri morph from lush
green to vibrant red, orange and yellow. Several self-guided
driving tours provide options to view Jack Frost’s handiwork
at pullovers, especially at Ha Ha Tonka State Park.
Park near the “castle ruins” for a walk around the fairytail
estate, left unfinished from the turn of the last century.
Now part of the Missouri State Park system, Ha Ha Tonka
consistently ranks as one of the best state parks by readers of
USA.
Check it out:
Golfers know a good course when they find one and there are
plenty along Central Missouri’s Lake of the Ozarks Golf Trail.
Plus the fishing’s good! Locals report fall’s quieter waters are
favorable for fishing, especially in secluded coves along the
1,150 miles of shoreline. Lake of the Ozarks, Central Missouri:
FUNLAKE.COM
Castle ruins invite visitors to
discover its history at Ha Ha
Tonka State Park near Lake of
the Ozarks in Central Missouri.
Photo: Courtesy of FunLake.com
While other areas in Indiana get more
ink for fall color than Fort Wayne, the
brilliant canopy towering above its three
navigable rivers, wooded trails and
wetlands draws outdoor enthusiasts -
and their dogs. A 120-mile network of
trails to hike, bike and paddle guides
return visitors and newcomers through
parks and preserves within the purview
of the second largest city in the state.
Great names, like Pufferbelly Trail
or Little River Wetlands, stir the
imaginations of those longing for
one more day in the great outdoors.
The Fort Wayne Outdoor Pass
for mobile phones simplifies how
and where to do just that. P.S. -
The National Arbor Foundation
consistently designates dog-friendly
Fort Wayne as a Tree City USA.
Check it out:
Fall menus at many Fort
Wayne restaurants include
S’mores. Many pastry chefs
like to kick it up a notch by
using local, award-winning
DeBrand Fine Chocolate.
VISITFORTWAYNE.COM
Fall cruises on The Celebration
provide special views of Jack Frost’s
handiwork along the banks of Lake of
the Ozarks in Central Missouri.
Photo Courtesy of The Celebration
Ha Ha Tonka State Park near Lake of
the Ozarks in Central Missouri.
Photo: Courtesy of FunLake.com
36
Sunburst colors frame walkways at
Headwaters Park in Fort Wayne, Indiana.
Photo courtesy of Visit Fort Wayne
Dog friendly, Fort Wayne, Indiana invites furry family members to
stretch their legs along area trails with their people.
Photo courtesy of Visit Fort Wayne
Bear Creek Valley Golf Club -
Lake of the Ozarks Golf Trail.
Photo: Courtesy of FunLake.com
37

Malabar Farm State Park near Mansfield
in Richland County welcomes visitors to
explore the 900-acre estate.
Photo Courtesy of Destination Mansfield
OHIO
Pumpkin Glow at Kingwood Center Gardens
in Mansfield, Ohio lights up an October
weekend for the entire family. Partial credit for
the wattage goes to the estimated 1,000-plus
carved and lit pumpkins. There are glowing
balloons plus other illuminated decorations
on the 47-acre estate, now listed on the
National Register of Historic Places. Vibrant
displays provide opportunities for selfies along
scarecrow row, by seasonal gourds and a sea of
fall’s favorite flower, chrysanthemums.
By day, oak trees in this dreamy part of Ohio
dazzle with their own show of leaf-popping
color. Same for the scenery found along the
18.4-mile B&O Trail - for cyclists and walkers
alike. Check out local outfitters for tour and
trek opportunities, maybe even a trail ride.
There are nearly 90 miles of bridle trails in
Richland County State Parks and Forests.
WISCONSIN
For the first blush of fall color, venture to the
northernmost point of Door County, Wisconsin and
catch the ferry to Washington Island.
As the season unfolds, plan for a drive along Highway
42. It is a favorite for its curves as well as color. One of
most popular ways to experience fall at the Door is on
a self-guided circle tour, by car or bicycle. Wind up one
side of the peninsula, and then return via the other side.
Newly rebuilt, Eagle Tower at Peninsula State Park
opened in May - same location and same incredible
views of Green Bay and the surrounding coast. What’s
not the same? The rebuilt tower is now accessible! It
includes an 850-foot ramp that leads to the top viewing
area through the same colorful canopy as those taking
the 100 steps.
Accolades roll in about Door County in the fall, from
Discover Boating and Trip Advisor to Trips-To-Discover
and USA Today’s 10 Best list.
Hwy 42 is the most popular
drive to experience fall color
in Door County, Wisconsin.
Photo Courtesy of
Destination Door County
Jack O’Lanterns and fairy lights illuminate
the walkways at Pumpkin Glow, held at
Kingwood Center Gardens in Mansfield, Ohio.
Photo Courtesy of Destination Mansfield
Near Mansfield in Richland County, Marlabar
Farm State Park is a working farm that includes
farm animals and features the home of Pulitzer
prize-winning author Louis Bromfield.
Photo Courtesy of Destination Mansfield
Check it out:
Experience an aerial view of Richmond
County’s fall color on a
Tree Frog Canopy Zip-line Tour.
Destination Mansfield:
VISITDESTINATIONMANSFIELD.COM
Malabar Farm State Park near
Mansfield in Richland County
welcomes visitors to explore
the 900-acre estate.
Photo Courtesy of
Destination Mansfield
Check it out:
Hit the links at one of Door County’s 10 golf courses.
All offer brilliant fall colors as well as challenging play.
Courses range from nine to 27 holes.
Destination Door County,
WWW.DOORCOUNTY.COM
Find seclusion wrapped in
fall colors along Eagle Trail
in Door County, Wisconsin.
Photo Courtesy of
Destination Door County
The charming town of Ephraim, Wisconsin
in Door County where Jack Frost’s
handiwork can be seen from the water. Photo Courtesy of Destination Door County
38
39

Plan your escape to the
beautiful Kitsap Peninsula
VISIT.
CHECK IN.
GET REWARDS.
The Indiana Destination Development Corporation (IDDC/Visit Indiana)
and the Indiana Department of Natural Resources teamed up to launch
the INDIANA STATE NATURE PASSPORT.
Indiana is blessed with unique places and remarkable natural features.
From state parks to forests and lakes, this passport includes 59 outdoor
locations to explore. It’s free to sign up. All you need to do is check in
at one of the passport locations, and you are on your way to earning
prizes. The more you visit, the more you earn. You can also qualify
for a grand-prize giveaway and drawings throughout the year.
READY?
Become a
Hoosier explorer!
Scan the QR
code to get
started.
Whether you enjoy hiking, biking, horseback riding or wildlife watching,
there is something for everyone. And no matter what time of the year
or season, there is always a new place to discover nature’s authentic
adventures. You don’t have to go far to feel far away. Take the time
to enjoy the sights and sounds of Indiana’s nature.
Poulsbo Farmers Market
Port Gamble Forest Heritage Park
Gamble Bay
To Port Townsend
and Port Angeles
101
Port
Ludlow
104
Hood Canal
Bridge
Port
Gamble
Hansville
Puget
Sound
To Everett
Places to Eat & Drink
on the Kitsap Peninsula
Hoodsport
OLYMPIC
NATIONAL
PARK
Home of the
Kitsap
Peninsula
National
Water
Trails
Hood Canal
101
North Hood
Canal Area
Seabeck
Kitsap
Peninsula
The Natural Side of
Puget Sound®
Belfair
3
Bangor
3
Silverdale
3
Indianola
Poulsbo
Suquamish
Puget
Sound
Keyport
Bremerton
Gorst
Bremerton
National Airport
166
Brownsville
303
307
16
Manchester
Port
Orchard
305
Bainbridge
Island
Southworth
Olalla
Kingston
104
Blake
Island
Vashon
Island
Edmonds
West
Seattle
Fauntleroy-Vashon
Southworth Ferry
SEATTLE
SeaTac
International
Airport
Bellevue
• Renton
Book your hotel at
Bloedel Reserve - Bainbridge Island
106 Allyn
Union
Grapeview
3
to Shelton
Key Peninsula
Gig
Harbor
TACOMA
Tacoma
16
Narrows
Bridge
Easy to get to
by ferry, bridge,
boat or auto.
Oxford Suites - Silverdale
Find Things to Do, Places to
Eat, Drink, Play and Stay at
40
41

Cablecar over An Thoi
Vietnam’s Idyllic Phu Quoc Island
(pronounced fook woke)
Story and Photos by John Gottberg Anderson
The view from the
windows of the world’s
longest over-the-sea cable car
was magnificent.
From our ephemeral perch,
more than 500 feet above
the Gulf of Thailand, Phong Lan
and I looked down upon the fishing
village of An Thó’i at the southern
tip of Vietnam’s Phu Quoc Island.
Hundreds of commercial vessels, their
red decks sharply contrasting with the
turquoise and aquamarine of the water,
crowded close to a rocky shoreline
where coconut palms and mango trees
drooped over modern villas. Soon
we soared above heavily wooded isles
reachable only by sea, the tin roofs
of their traditional homes sloping
toward golden beaches and more boats
moored in a crescent-shaped harbor.
Duong Dong Market
My friend Lan and I were enjoying a
getaway to tiny Hon Thom Isle.
The 30-passenger aerial tram —
which hop-skips two smaller keys
in a five-mile, 15-minute journey
— was opened in February 2018. It
delivered us to lovely Bai Trao Beach,
where graceful palms swayed above
hammocks on a sandy strip framed by
coral outcrops, just beyond earshot of
the rides and slides of family-friendly
Aquatopia Water Park.
It was a beautiful day in autumn, but
it could have been any month between
October and March, when Vietnam’s
seasonal rains surrender their thunder
to blue skies. Temperatures in these
sultry climes rarely rise above 90
degrees Fahrenheit, or fall below 75.
Beaches and Buddhism
When travelers set their sights on tropical
islands, they don’t often think of Vietnam.
Phu Quoc Island is, indeed, one of the gems
of this Southeast Asian country. Despite an
onslaught of luxury hotel and theme park
development at both the south and north
ends of the island, Phu Quoc (pronounced
fook woke) retains a laid-back ambience
across most of its 31-mile length.
Geographically, Phu Quoc is often lumped
with the Mekong Delta provinces of
southernmost Vietnam. But it’s well beyond
the Mekong — so far west, in fact, that it’s
closer to Cambodia than to the nearest
Vietnamese port. (Most visitors arrive at the
international airport, in the center of the
island.) As broad as 16 miles in the north,
tapering to a mere 2 miles in the south,
Phu Quoc is home to only about 180,000
permanent residents. Tourism, of course,
magnifies that number.
Nearly half of the people live in Duong
Dong, the only town of size. Midway down
the west coast, facing the Gulf of Thailand,
it’s a lively community with many two
and three-star resort hotels, bustling day
and night markets, and some outstanding
seafood restaurants.
Bún quậy is a local specialty food, a shrimpand-noodle
soup most famously enjoyed
at Kiên-Xây, beside the harbor. Nearby,
atop convoluted Dinh Cau Rock, a small
Buddhist temple doubles as a lighthouse;
devotees pray to Thien Hau, the goddess of
the sea. If you concentrate, your nose might
detect Vietnam’s most famous fish sauce
(nu’oc maam) factory.
42
43

44
Long Beach
Pearl in an
oyster
Chu’a Ho Quoc pagoda
xtending south more than 12
miles from Duong Dong is
Long Beach, known locally
as Bai Tru’ong. Hotels, many still under
construction, are widely spaced
along the golden sands. A
highlight is the Ngoc Hien
Pearl Farm. Visitors may explore a museum
and watch as technicians surgically remove
cultivated pearls from oysters. Then they
are ushered into an expansive store with all
manner of pearl jewelry in colors that range
from “pearly white” to black, pink and golden
yellow.
The modern Ho Quoc Pagoda, a Zen
monastery on the east side of the island, is
the largest Buddhist temple on Phu Quoc.
Its original ỉronwood architecture and stone
carvings — including a dragon built into a
staircase and a large marble Buddha — are at
once classical and contemporary. Playful wind
chimes make the bell tower a wonderful place
for serene meditation, especially when seated
facing the sea with one’s back to the mountain.
Tourism promoters make a strong case for
Bai Sao (Starfish Bay), the nearest beach to
the temple, as Phu Quoc’s most beautiful
because of its fine white sand and clear blue
water. At slack tides on calm evenings here,
thousands of starfish move from deeper water
toward shore under the protective cloak of
dusk. Resort properties along Bai Sao are
mostly moderately priced. A short distance
further south, Bai Khem (Ice Cream Beach)
has become a luxury destination. At resorts
like the J.W. Marriott and Kem Premiere,
casitas flow across the isthmus of an adjacent
peninsula.
Mango Bay Escape
North of Duong Dong town, the mood is
decidedly different. Stray from the beaten
path to find On Lan Beach, which is a little
bit country, a little bit rock ‘n’ roll. Willowy
needles of ironwood trees drift and land upon
a rocky point, where young children pursue
tiny crabs skittering through tide-pools as
their caretakers salute the setting sun with
graceful twilight dances. A short hike inland,
small cafés serve peach tea, avocado smoothies
and egg coffee.
Ong Lan’s brand of luxury is
represented by the Mango Bay
Resort, its 44 bungalows
concealed in a frangipaniscented
forest that slopes
gently to the beach. The
design reflects the architects’
commitment to conservation and environmental
sustainability. Solar panels provide much of the
energy. There is no air-conditioning, no television
and no wifi in the rooms. Off-site parking assures
traffic-free relaxation. Two restaurants serve
international specialties and cocktails.
More than half of northern Phu Quoc Island
was sheltered from 21st-century blemishes
when 130-square-mile Phu Quoc National Park
was proclaimed a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
in 2010. Its mountainous spine, cloaked with
broadleaf and evergreen forest, is home to a
unique flora and such rarely seen wildlife as longtailed
macaques, silver langurs, slow lories and
hornbills.
But all is not pristine, as evidenced by the
VinPearl company’s massive real-estate
development project. At its heart is the
VinWonders amusement park, covering more
than 120 acres. The park could be a Disney
clone with its castle-like European façade, more
than 100 rides and attractions, a walk-through
aquarium, roller coasters, restaurants and an
amphitheater for live shows. Nearby, the VinPearl
Safari Park exhibits more than 2,000 wild animals
of 130 species, along with 400 types of indigenous
plants.
Lan Phong and I preferred to pause for refreshing
shells of natural coconut water at Ganh Dau, the
fishing village at the head of Phu Quoc Island.
From here, we could look beyond a small fleet of
brightly painted fishing vessels to the border isles
of neighboring Cambodia, so near yet so far.
In these times of the COVID-19 virus,
international crossings are tightly guarded.
Although Vietnam is rated only a moderate risk
by the World Health Organization, the nation
currently mandates a 14-day quarantine period
for anyone arriving in the country, and masks
are required almost everywhere. Vietnam’s travel
industry looks forward to a return to unrestricted
movement in the near future.
Phong Lan at Bai Trao
Sunset dance, Ong Lan beach, Mango Bay
American travel writer John Gottberg Anderson,
a two-time NATJA Gold Award winner,
has lived in Vietnam since October 2019.
Follow his adventures at
www.travelsinvietnam.com
45

A decorative SEOUL sign across CHEONGGYECHEON STREAM, a 5-mile long walking path, below street level, in downtown Seoul
YOU GOTTA HAVE SEOUL
Story and Photos by Jennifer Crites
S
oul is often seen as
a pass-through city
by travelers flying to
various parts of Asia.
And that’s how my
husband and I saw it
until, in late 2019, we decided to
spend nine days there and see
what Seoul had to offer.
Turns out, it has a lot to offer.
Traditional, modern, colorful
and even whimsical, Seoul is
a place where sky-high office
buildings and captivating street
art co-exist with palaces and
city walls built in a bygone era,
where its citizens love to rent
traditional Korean outfits and
wander the historic locales
while taking selfies, and where
you can partake of waffles in
a Belgian chocolate shop or
sausages in a British-style pub
as well as scrumptious Korean
food everywhere.
show, “M.A.S.H.”)—Seoul has
recuperated and reinvented
itself. The city is clean and
orderly. It’s an easy place to
walk, explore, and discover
3D comic-book characters
perched near bus stops and
even in front of the police
station, music concerts in city
squares or temple courtyards,
colorful changing-of-the-guard
pageantry rivaling that of
Buckingham Palace, and afterdark
streets filled with an array
of food vendors. You might
even be approached by a duo
of Korean girls with surveys in
hand, asking your thoughts on
visiting their fair city.
Seoul’s subway system is
considered one of the best
in the world. A warren of
underground tunnels lined with
shops leads you from station to
station. All are artfully designed,
signage is excellent, and
when your train approaches,
a speaker system plays a few
bars of classical, pop or other
music to let you know your train
is arriving.
Glowing blue tile decorates one of many
eye-catching subway entrances in Seoul.
The Lion King is one of many
storybook characters displayed
next to Cheonggyecheon
Stream
The ultra-modern
Dongdaemun Design Plaza,
a below-ground shopping
complex, resembles a silver
spaceship.
A Changing of the Guard ceremony
takes place several times daily in
front of Deoksugung Palace gate.
A street-art, 30-foot-tall bronze woman
with six heads hangs out by the
Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
Cute
little girl
and boy
characters
welcome
all to a
Seoul
police
station.
Waiting for a bus in Seoul is fun with
these characters hanging around.
In spite of Korea’s turbulent
past—Japanese invasion in the
1590s, Japanese occupation
from 1910-1945, and the
devastating Korean war from
1950 to 1953 (basis for the TV
Visitors gather to watch a Changing of the Guard
ceremony at Deoksugung Palace.
46
47

Deoksugung Palace
Korean Folk Village
Wherever you go, you’ll see “I.SEOUL.U” signs. The slogan—a friendly
tourist branding—means literally, “Seoul is yours and mine.”
An intricately painted drum in a courtyard at Deoksugung Palace.
Musicians entertain a delighted audience on the grounds of
Deoksugung Palace.
A stunning display of Korean architecture
at one of Deoksugung Palace’s buildings.
Day-tripping local girls in traditional Korean costumes pose for the camera
while making the popular V sign (meaning “yeah” or happiness)
This elaborate fan dance is only one
of the spectacular performances at the Korean Folk Village.
Following in
the footsteps
of local
sightseers,
author and
photographer
Jennifer
Crites and
her husband
rent outfits
from one of
the many
costume
shops in
Bukchon
Hanok
Village
(traditional
section of
Seoul).
In the environs just outside
Seoul’s bustling city center, other
pleasures await. The Korean Folk
Village offers glimpses of local
crafts, thatched houses, village
life, a water-wheel beside a lake,
a mock-wedding ceremony, and
a Vegas-type show featuring Korean
dances and drumming in an outdoor
amphitheater. You’ll even find costumed
interpreters dressed as pointy-eared
elves and white-faced ghosts.
48
A night view of Sungnyemun Gate, one of eight historical
gates in the Fortress Wall that was built between 1396-98
and surrounded the city in the Joseon Dynasty
The ancient Suwon Hwaseong Fortress
wall and its towers offer great picture-taking
opportunities.
Husband and wife mannequins
recreate mealtime inside a traditional
home at the Korean Folk Village.
A pixie-eared elf
assists visitors
An artisan fires metal
utensils in his workshop
49

Gwangmyeong Cave
Naejangsan National Park
Uhwajeong Pavilion
surrounded by autumn
foliage seems to float in
its lake at Naejangsan
National Park.
At scheduled times, a vibrant light show flashes across the
rough interior walls of Gwangmyeong Cave.
One of many eerie glowing creatures
inhabiting Gwangmyeong Cave
nother option is Gwangmyeong Cave. During
the 1910-1945 Japanese occupation, forcedlabor
miners pried gold, silver, copper and
other minerals from the earth with pick-axes
and drills. Now the cave is alive with strange,
luminous creatures lurking in shadowed
pockets of rock, a small aquarium and a wine
bar. Lighting shows featuring a giraffe, sea star and woolly
mammoth illuminate the rough interior walls at scheduled
intervals. Outside, more creatures, such as a hippo, gorilla,
polar bear and white deer, come to life in artistic form; an
animated mining video plays on a giant screen; and other
artworks include a ball composed of auto side-view mirrors,
and a footpath crafted from woven ropes. If you get tired,
you can rest on a bench set into the side of a rhinoceros.
Naejangsan
National Park,
resplendent in its
October autumn
colors. A temple
complex at the
far end is worth
exploring, and the
stroll takes you
past a pavilion
set in a charming
lake. Legend says
that the pavilion
once sprouted
wings and
ascended into the
heavens.
little further afield but only a short bus trip away is
In retrospect, our short time there was not enough to
explore this fascinating city and its surroundings.
To paraphrase The Terminator, “We’ll be back.”
For more photos of Seoul, see
Seoul Searching by Jennifer Crites
This giant screen outside Gwangmyeong
Cave shows an animated video of miners
digging for precious metals.
50
Just outside Gwangmyeong Cave, visitors can take a rest
break on this bench set into the side of a rhinoceros.
51

Welcome Aboard Celebrity’s Xpedition
Marine Iguana and Sally Lightfoot Crab seen from the zodiac
After enjoying two nights in Quito, we flew
to Baltra Island where we were greeted
by Celebrity’s Xpedition representatives.
We climbed into a zodiac parked near the
adjacent dock. Within no time, we boarded
the award-winning Xpedition and were
greeted with flutes of bubbly champagne.
Each evening, we attended the certified
naturalists’ video presentation offering an
overview of the next day’s island experience.
To accommodate the passengers’ diverse
interests and participation levels, we were
given choices for both the morning and
afternoon excursions. These land and
snorkeling trips were limited to a select
number of people that was regulated by the
local authorities. On a few occasions, we
could choose a snorkeling option. Some
of the wildlife was encountered on
multiple days. Each island had particular
characteristics and unique terrains.
Our days were saturated with energizing
and uplifting experiences. Unlike other
places in the world where wildlife
sightings are based on patience and luck,
we were able to see just about every
single species that was described during
the evening video presentations. Not
only were we able to enjoy a plethora
of animals, but most of these land and
marine encounters were within a few
feet of us. The amazing wildlife was
comfortable around human visitors.
Some appeared poised for photo
opportunities while others were oblivious
to our presence.
Sandy and Ira Bornstein
getting ready for deep water snorkel
on Celebrity Cruises Xpedition
Photo taken by Celebrity Crew.
Recalling a Superb
Pristine Gardner Bay Beach
with Sea Lion with Turtle Rock
and Celebritys’s Xpedition ship
in the background.
Autumn Adventure
Galapagos Islands
Story and Photos by
Sandy Bornstein
When planning our trip to the Galapagos
Archipelago, a year-round destination,
Ira and I chose to visit during the garoa
(dry season), which runs from July
to December. Unlike many Northern
Hemisphere’s destinations that are
inundated with cooler temperatures,
overcast skies and a multitude of rainy
autumn days, the Southern Hemisphere’s
Galapagos Islands are known for sunny
days with bright blue skies and moderate
temperatures ranging from 76-80 degrees
Fahrenheit and water temperatures
between 62-72 degrees Fahrenheit.
By timing our visit at the end of the
fall season, right before the Christmas
break, we encountered less crowds and
were able to see an abundance of sea
turtles, sea lion pups, albatrosses and
blue footed boobies. Had we visited
during a different month, what we
experienced may have been completely
different.
Since it was unlikely that we would
be returning to this region again,
we spent a considerable amount of
time researching our tour options. After
narrowing our choices to a few luxury
brands, we selected Celebrity Cruises, a
familiar brand that has yet to disappoint
us. Our 15-night, all-inclusive trip included
two-nights in Quito, Ecuador, a seven-night
Celebrity Xpedition Outer Loop Galapagos
Island itinerary, and six nights in Peru
with guided tours to the Sacred Valley,
Cuzco, and Machu Picchu. The onsite tour
operators in Ecuador and Peru handled all
of our transfers and the land tours while the
Celebrity Cruises team addressed our needs
aboard the Xpedition.
52
53

Marine life living in harmony
Gardner Bay, Espanola Island
Our introduction to the Galapagos Islands’ wildlife occurred on the salt
and pepper-colored beaches of Española Island. As we disembarked from
our zodiac, we were greeted by a colony of sea lions, sunbathing marine
iguanas, slow moving Sally Lightfoot crabs, curious mockingbirds, and
swooping pelicans.
Punta Cormorant,
Floreana Island
Only a few hundred flamingos reside on
this island. We were delighted when we
found a group standing near a brackish
lagoon.
Graceful Flamingo
on Isabela Island
Blowhole
revealing itself
on Punta Suarez,
Espanola Island
We had to watch where we stepped. Colorful lava lizards frequently
scurried across the path as our guide identified flora and fauna. Some
animals were easier to see than others. At first, I couldn’t locate a
juvenile Galapagos hawk that was seated on an oversized rock.
Before heading back to the Xpedition, we retrieved our wetsuits and
snorkeling gear from the beach and then waded into the water. At Turtle
Rock, we observed schools of surgeonfish and king angelfish. As we
waded back to the shore, we came across a stingray on the sandy ocean
floor.
Punta Suarez, Espanola Island
After lunch, we visited a different part of the island where we were awed
by a seaside blowhole. The surrounding dark gray rocks were filled with
bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs. Red and green iguanas along with sea
lions were sunning themselves on the nearby beach. We were introduced
to blue-footed boobies, Nazca boobies, and waved albatrosses.
In a volcanic boulder field, we learned about the waved albatross’s mating
ritual. Their heads bobbed from side to side as a couple strutted toward
one another. Their yellow beaks performed a mating ritual as their beaks
came together and produced a unique sound. These birds were renewing
or revitalizing their relationship before they left the island. From April to
December, this albatross community resides in the Galapagos Islands.
Our luck continued when we reached
a secluded beach. We came across
a handful of Pacific Sea turtles who
were first spotted a few yards away in
the water. Most of the time we could
only see their large shells. These turtles
usually do not reveal themselves in
daylight.
At the end of our tour, our guide pointed
to a Blue-footed Boobie watching over
her baby. From our vantage point, the
baby looked like a pile of feathers.
Deep Water Snorkeling
Near Champion Island
Our zodiac bounced through the rough
waters on the way to Champion Island.
Slightly offshore, we jumped into water
with fluctuating temperatures and strong
currents. The clarity of the water was
disappointing. It was challenging to
identify the smaller fish, but we did view
two different types of starfish and Ira
spotted a white tipped shark.
Pacific Sea Turtle making a daytime
appearance on Floreana Island
Post Office Bay
Coastline
This zodiac excursion focused on the
marine life living on the rocky shoreline
of Post Office Bay. At this location,
we saw more crabs, red and green
iguanas, and sea lions playing with their
offspring. The zodiac driver had to be
careful. The water was filled with a few
sea turtles that resembled pieces of
driftwood.
54
Waved Albatross’ Mating Ritual Image
Swallowtail Gull
Blue Footed Boobie protecting her fluffy offspring
55

Frightened land
dwelling tortoise
on Isabela Island
Isabela Island’s
Black Lava Trail at
Punta Moreno
We needed to be mindful as we navigated through an uneven
lava terrain with depressed areas filled with water. In between
the irregular surfaces, lava cactus and candelabra cactus
appeared. Tiny lizards, crabs, iguanas, and an occasional
penguin inhabited this terrain. Near a pond surrounded by
mangrove shrubs, Galapagos carpetweed, and succulent plants
with white and yellow flowers, we watched graceful flamingoes.
Fernandina Lava Fields
and Sandy Areas
Gray was the predominant color theme. On a rocky shoreline,
marine iguanas, sea lions, and flightless cormorants enjoyed their
pristine coastal neighborhood. We especially enjoyed the sea lions
who gracefully played with one another.
Snorkeling at
Punta Vincente
Roca Cove
Sandy and Ira Bornstein on Zodiac
heading to Celebrity’s Xpedition,
Image taken by Celebrity Cruises Crew
Mother Sea Lion
with her baby at
Fernandina
Lava Field
Urbina Bay,
Isabela Island
The first part of our hike was on a dirt path surrounded by
a variety of short trees and plants including the Galapagos
Cotton bushes with blooming yellow flowers. Instead of seeing
an abundance of marine iguanas, we saw a small number of
territorial, orange-colored land iguanas who had dug holes near
our trail.
To date, our best snorkeling experience occurred at his location.
Within minutes of entering the deep water, sea lions and possibly
Galapagos fur seals approached us. My heart pounded when a
massive Pacific green sea turtle came uncomfortably close. I was
thrilled when penguins sped by us. Throughout this amazing
experience, schools of fish surrounded us.
Coastal Zodiac Cruise Near Punta
Vincente Roca
Snorkeling
with Sea
Lion at Punta
Vincente
Roca Cove
Carefully, we made our way around the slow-moving, landdwelling
tortoises who could be easily frightened. These mega
creatures had limited vision but would retract their head and
legs whenever they sensed anything nearby.
From the zodiac, we gazed at rare Galapagos fur seals, sea turtles
and golden eagle ray fish. Above the shoreline, on stone ledges, we
captured images of several types of birds—Blue-footed Boobies,
Noddy Terns, flightless cormorants and a hawk. Near the water’s
edge, penguins waddled, crabs crawled, and marine iguanas
congregated in groups. It was incredible to see so much wildlife in
one location.
Snorkeling with
Pacific Green
Sea Turtle
at Vincente
Rosa Cove
Penguin on
rocky ledge
at Punta
Vincente
Roca
Nazca Boobie
posing for
visitors
56
Iguana nibbling on cactus leaf while sea lion prances on South Plaza Island
57

South Plaza’s
Crimson Landscape
Sesuvium plants formed a crimson, orange, yellow and
green carpet which reminded everyone of autumn in the
Northern Hemisphere’s deciduous forests. Small groves
of prickly pear cactus trees added an additional layer of
intrigue to this fascinating terrain.
South Plaza’s
autum colors
This is the only place in the world where you can find
hybrid iguanas, the sterile offspring of marine and land
iguanas. This rare species has long yellowish-white stripes
on their neck and use their claws to climb the cactus trees.
Luckily, we were able to see two of these rare iguanas from a
distance.
Our videos and photos captured an iguana nibbling on a
cactus leaf while sea lions also vied for our attention.
Barren Dragon Hill, Santa Cruz
Rare Hybrid Iguana,
revealed in crimson
terrain on South
Plaza Island
Barren Dragon Hill
sandy pathway
On an unprotected sundrenched path, we walked uphill to
a scenic overlook where we could gaze at adjacent islands.
During our trek, we saw Galapagos land iguanas, finches,
mockingbirds, and yellow warblers.
Galapagos Tortoise Breeding
Center and Charles Darwin
Research Center
Since 1959, the Charles Darwin Foundation for the
Galapagos Islands has been working with the Ecuadorean
government to ensure the conservation of the Galapagos
Archipelago. While touring the facility and the museum, we
were provided an overview of their efforts.
Almost three years after our autumn Galapagos Islands
adventure, my memories of our extraordinary Southern
Hemisphere experience remain vivid. Looking back through
our images, I am happy that we didn’t wait any longer to
take this active voyage. A significant number of our fellow
cruise passengers were not able to participate in the deepsea
snorkeling excursions or the more demanding hikes.
Few destinations offer the opportunity to see so many
threatened or rare species living in their natural habitat. If
you are fascinated by animals and enjoy the outdoors, don’t
wait too long before you book a Galapagos Islands cruise.
58
59

Strategic Thinking.
Impactful Tourism Results.
The tourism industry has been battered,
but we will overcome.
When travelers are ready to travel again, DCI is ready
to help you bring them to your door.
#TourismStrong
NATJA member
Karyl.Barnes@aboutdci.com
60
www.aboutdci.com