Smorgasboarder 50th edition

2021
#50
smorgasboarder magazine
th
edition
Portugal, wave pools, wooden boards
and what it feels like to be 50.

Surf Shop
Gerringong
90min SOUTH OF SYDNEY
Celebrating
45 YEARS
Celebrating
45 YEARS
500
+
ONLINE & INSTORE
O N L I N E S T O R E
R E V I E W S
Australia’s Largest
IndependEnt Surf Shop
FAMILY OWNED RUN
&
WWW.NaturalNecessity.com.au
(02) 4234 1636 Open 7 days

A SPECIAL THANKS AS WELL
TO NICK CONNOLLY AND SAM
SWAN WHO ALSO JOINED
US ON WORK EXPERIENCE
FROM CHANCELLOR STATE
COLLEGE.
Cool graphic thanks to
Laurence Souter of Sunshine
Coast Grammar School who
joined us the week prior to
Smorgasboarder going to print
on work experience.
CONTENTS
#50
WINTER
2021
10
48
32
10 ladies first
12 news
16 controversy
18 stuff
32 wave pools
46 locals
52 escape
58 portugal
86 gear
98 aloha barry
56
smorgasboarders
Editorial | Dave Swan
dave@smorgasboarder.com.au
0401 345 201
Editorial | Geoff Crockett
geoff@smorgasboarder.com.au
0413 988 333
Advertising | Simon Cross
simon@smorgasboarder.com.au
0413 698 630
New Zealand | Jiff Morris
jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz
0220 943 913
South Australia | Jimmy Ellis
james@smorgasboarder.com.au
0410 175 552
Design | Horse & Water Creative
mark, kate, val, jimbo, helen, taylah
mark@horseandwater.com.au
Accounts | Louise Gough
louise@smorgasboarder.com.au
2021
#50
smorgasboarder magazine
th
Portugal, wave pools, wooden boards
and what it feels like to be 50.
edition
our cover
Dig our new look?
We’d love to hear from you!
Image: Picture perfect Portugal.
get involved
Stories, photos, ideas, new and
interesting surf-related stuff you
want to share? drop us a line on
editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au
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Smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media PTY LTD ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publication cannot
accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors
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photo: grommet
Supplied courtesy of Eddie Wearne
If there is one bloke who epitomises surf stoke,
good times and a love for a multitude of surf craft,
skateboards, snowboards and everything else, it is this
guy – Captain Frothalot - Eddie Wearne of Shed Nine
down in Rye, Victoria. Through and through, a true
Smorgasboarder!
(He even injures himself more than us)

Thanks
Well, where do we start? Obviously, a massive thanks is in order
to our readers and most notably the surfboard shapers, retailers
and associated businesses who took a punt with their hardearned
cash and supported two kooks who decided to write a surf
mag for everyday surfers. Without them, there wouldn’t be a mag,
plain and simple.
And we guess that is why we possibly resonated with so many
lovers of surfing. We weren’t trying to be cool. Hell, we weren’t
even trying to pass ourselves off as half decent rippers or super
knowledgeable surveyors of tide and ocean charts (we still don’t
know how to read them). We could never pretend to be something
we are not. We were, and still are, simply a couple of guys sharing
their stoke about surfing. And fortunately, through the course of
time, we have managed to assemble a talented team around us –
that’s why the mag has improved markedly!
The reason we took a different slant with our surf mag is because
we felt stories on pro circuit surfers had been covered verbatim.
Why do more of the same? We felt it was time for the everyday
Joe or Jody to shine – the grassroots surfer. For them to tell their
story of why they surf, where they surf and how surfing makes
them feel.
We were delighted to find out so many were keen to hear their
story. We suppose for so many of us, we may like to think we
surf like Kelly Slater or Steph Gilmore but the harsh reality is, we
are pretty ordinary in comparison. However, that doesn’t make
us love surfing any less. In fact, we could argue that means
we love surfing even more. Consider Mark (the other original
Smorgasboarder) for instance, he can’t surf for sh*t, all these
years on, and I have got progressively worse, but we are still
absolutely committed to surfing. We love it with all our heart and
soul. When you really suck at something and yet continue to do it,
it shows how much you must really love it.
And you guys should be grateful, we have really put our bodies on
the line for you through the years testing all manner of surfcraft,
skateboards, freebords, wakeboards and snowboards. We have
sustained so many injuries for the sake of keeping you guys
entertained and informed about the latest gear.
Best of all however, we have met so many salt of the earth souls
we genuinely love catching up with and sharing some seriously
deep, bottom of the belly kind of laughs with - the ones where you
struggle to breathe in between.
Ahh yes, we are a unique band of surfers us Smorgasboarders. A
beautiful family united by our love for the ocean, our love for good
times with mates, our p*ss taking of each other’s surfing abilities
and maybe a sneaky brown fruit juice or two.
In all sincerity guys (you know that means guys and girls), thank
you so much for all your support and perseverance through the
years. We couldn’t have done it without you. We hope you enjoy
our return and our milestone 50th edition some 10 years on from
when it all began. Stay stoked.
The Smorgasboarders

Ladies first
If you drop by The Surf Shed in Torquay most
afternoons chances are pretty high you’ll find Sarah
Reid hard at work glassing the latest custom-designed
creations from the mind of Darren (Dicko) Dickson.
Going by the Instagram handle of
@Twin_Peaks_Glassing. Sarah is a rare find in the
Australian surfing world where females working in the
board building industry are few and far between.
For Sarah, surf is in her blood. Her father surfed back in
the day. Even though she grew up inland at Teesdale,
her family spent every spare minute at the beach.
Sarah said her Mum had told her she used to lie on a
lilo and float in and out on the tide when she was two
years’ old. A sensation that morphed into a love of body
boarding that saw Sarah take out the state champs for
a few years.
“There used to be a real possie of esky lidders around
here – I was the only chick pretty much,” Sarah said.
It wasn’t until she was 24 that she borrowed a surfboard
from a mate’s Dad and got a taste of life on a bigger
board. Then life, work and surfing took Sarah away from
Jan Juc and off to Margaret River to live for more than
a decade.
Moving back to Victoria in about 2015, Sarah said she
ran into Dicko who was drowning in repair work and
asked her if she’d be interested in helping him fix the
dings. One crash course in basic repairs later and she
ended up helping out for the next two years before
taking a break and trying out some different work.
After a horror slip and fall accident that smashed her
head in a bad way, killing her sense of smell and taste
and forcing her to “sit on the recliner” for 12 months in
recovery, Sarah said she was lucky enough to come
good around the same time Dicko was looking for a new
glasser.
After three months tutelage on the dark art of glassing
with Darren (Dibby) Milliken of Ocean Impact Board
Repairs Sarah said she’d gone live with Dicko’s designs
in January this year and has found her “happy” place.
“Dibby’s one of the original glassers from Rip Curl.
He’s been doing it for a very long time and he was kind
enough to show me the ropes and get me in – and we
pumped out a lot of vac fun boards for the Christmas
rush,” Sarah said.
Now she jokes that she’s a key part of the board making
team at Dickos.
“He’s shaping the useless pieces of foam that become
useful when I wrap them in fibreglass and then sand
them so they can be ridden,” she laughs.
Sarah said she loves the process of glassing the boards,
the creativity of producing new colour combinations,
the chance to learn something new every day and the
challenges of getting the finish just right … especially on
boards with a few channels to work around.
For now, Sarah said she’s tries to surf as often as
possible, with favourite spots at Rincon, Haystacks and
Cathedral (Rock). Otherwise she’ll be found at Dicko’s
or working a shift or two at Strapper Surf helping other
surfers find their next wetsuit or board.

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In this milestone edition we
have a very special feature
piece on Portugal. (I know,
I want to get travelling again sometime soon too.) If you
are planning a trip, what I must say is the good folks at
Helloworld Kawana are nothing short of miracle workers.
Late in 2019, before all the pandemic craziness started,
my son Sam and another young footballer from the
Sunshine Coast, Alec Franklin, were invited over to
Belenenses Football Club in Lisbon, Portugal. It was
all last minute and we consequently had to promptly
book flights to get the boys there (and time off school)
within the space of about 10 days. Stressed to the max,
I got in touch with good mate Craig Russell who owns
Helloworld Travel Kawana with his wife Gordana.
I figured if anyone could help us get a last minute deal on
an international flight, it would be him.
Craig got straight to it but soon enquired whether the
girls (my wife Katie and daughters Mikaela and Phoebe)
would be joining us at the end of the two-month stint.
Being brutally honest I was horrified by the thought. It
was not because I didn’t want the girls to join us. It was
simply the perceived cost of such a trip sent shivers
down my spine. Europe is incredibly beautiful but
frightfully expensive.
Anyhow, after giving Craig a very meagre budget I
fully expected him to tell me, “You are dreaming.”
Miraculously he came back with an itinerary for the family
I honestly could not believe. Craig factored in everything
from realistic travel times between destinations to
weighing up what was worth seeing in the timeframe
we had. He also considered the need for us to be within
walking distance of certain landmarks, understanding
travelling with a family of five is a nightmare both
logistically and cost wise. Craig also made sure to find as
many properties as possible with a kitchen, saving us on
the cost of dining out all the time. I can’t thank or praise
him enough. We not only had the trip of a lifetime that
will be ingrained in our collective memories forever, Katie
and I won’t be paying the trip off for a lifetime either.
Knowing our love for the snow, Craig even managed
to weave his magic and swing a week at a ski resort in
Switzerland just before Christmas. And don’t worry,
I was thinking the same thing too, ‘how friggin’ expensive
would that be?’ I don’t think I could stay at an average
apartment on the Gold Coast for the price of the
apartment Craig organised in Engleberg, including ski
gear and lift passes! Anyhow, more on that in the next
edition of Smorgasboarder.
Craig and Gordana have been in the travel business their
entire life and it clearly shows. Thanks guys from the
bottom of my heart. You are incredible.
www.helloworld.com.au/store/kawana

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Your chance to WIN
a set of Ghost Racks!
How cool are these clear surfboard racks
from Ghost Racks? Super strong and
near invisible. Well, you have a chance to
win a set.
Now, we know what you are thinking, “Hell, an awesome
free surf mag AND the chance to win some free surfboard
display racks as well. You guys are too good.”
We know, we often say the same things ourselves. Anyhow,
best of all, we want to make it super easy for you to enter.
Simply tell us in one or two sentences what you
missed most about Smorgasboarder and email us at
competitions@smorgasboarder.com.au
We will then choose a lucky winner from the entries. You
never know, it could just be you staring at your favourite
stick on the wall of your home in no time.
Things you need to know...
We’ll pick a winner on Thursday, 30 September
2021, so make sure to flick us an email.
Open to Smorgasboarder readers worldwide. Prize
will be your choice of either a vertical or horizontal
wall rack from the Ghost Racks surf range. We will
even post your Ghost Racks to you at their expense!
This is a game of skill - the smarter your comment,
the better your chance. Dazzle us with your wit and
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MORE THAN JUST A
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WE STOCK BODYBOARDS,
SKATE, SURF HARDWARE
AND A FINE DISPLAY OF
CLASSIC SURFBOARDS.
lowpressuresurf.com.au
68 Prince St Grafton NSW
Phone: 02 6643 5551
noel@lowpressuresurfco.com.au

news
Living legend
Considering all that retailers have endured during this pandemic, it is an incredible feat in itself
to have simply persevered during such times. You then have someone like Gail Austen who
has been through it all and then some and has still managed to clock up 50 years as owner of
Australia’s longest running surf shop.
Our hat goes off to Gail, we absolutely love her. She truly is an incredible women, an incredible
entrepreneur, one tough cookie and someone we have the upmost respect for. When we
recently spoke to Gail, she had this to say about the milestone.
“My brother opened the Goodtime Surfboards factory in Bolton Street, Kirra in July 1971. He
had a saying about his handcrafted surfboards – ‘ A standard to judge by.’ Many of the best
learnt from him and hung around the factory including the likes of Peter Townend and Michael
Peterson.
“I joined him not long after and then we opened our Windsor store in
January 73’, Brian unfortunately passed in December ’79 at the age of
49. I perservered and opened our Woolloongabba store in 1981, where
we are today.
“We’ve had highs, lows, been burnt down and basically been through
it all but have still managed to have a goodtime – because that is what
surfing is all about.
“I would like to say a huge thanks to our supporters and customers
through the years for their loyalty. They just keep on coming back....
to what is often described as a fair dinkum surf shop by young and old
surfing crew.”
Take a bow Gail. You truly are a legend of the surf industry.
To read more about Gail’s amazing story go back to where it all started
with us – Issue 2, November 2010.
www.smorgasboarder.com.au/the-library/
Balsa board courses
Our good mate Mark Riley, the king of all things balsa, is now
offering to share his undeniable skills with those still searching for
their inner shaper in a series of Balsa Board Building courses.
Having branched out into the world of short courses Mark found
the demand for dusty hands was so high he had to move from
the original location at Jannili to a bigger space at Kurnell to fit
everyone in.
At the end of the latest course Mark said: “the boys had cut the
balsa sticks with a bandsaw, glued them up into a blank. Cut the
plan shape with a circular saw. Used an electric planer to mow
the bottom and deck curves. Then they used a block plane and
sanding blocks to blend all the curves and hard work into a finished
board ready for glassing.
“The guys even helped with the glassing of their very own board so
it will last a lifetime in the water or on the wall.”
Keep an eye on www.balsasurfboardsriley.com for the next course.
Design with Nev
Veteran surfboard shaper Nev Hyman has announced a new era of
personalised service for surfers from all over the world looking for a
custom design from his studio.
Working via Zoom, Nev meets with customers to hear what they are
after before using computer software to create a 3D model using Shape
3D that can be shared with a local shaper and glasser for the creation of
the final product.
The idea, dubbed Mobius Surf, was about to be launched as
Smorgasboarder went to print – keep an eye on www.nevhyman.com
for updates.

news
Under pressure
There’s lots of things under the tin roof
of Grafton’s Low Pressure surf shop.
Styled like a classic surf shack it’s
packed full of the latest surf hardware,
fashion, skate, bodyboarding and
more along with an absolute mint
collection of vintage boards. You may
even twist owner Noel Smith to parting
with a few.
www.lowpressuresurf.com.au
Trailer trash
The alchemist of resin and carbon is at
it again. Our favourite mad scientist, the
ever-eccentric Neal Cameron is now crafting
custom guitars under the name Trailer Trash.
He primarily produces two styles – solid resin
body or super light hollow carbon fibre and
he can custom craft them into any manner
of shapes you can imagine like this one Neal
created for Don from DMC Fins. Said Neal of
this latest work, “Don wanted it in the shape
of his best-selling surf fin.” Incredible.
Storm chaser
Committed surfers are often keen readers of the
weather and then there are those who take it to another
level. Local Sunshine Coast surfer and storm chaser Ant
Lombardi, not only surfs them, he photographs them.
Simply stunning are the only words that can describe
his work. Check him out on Instagram @fluid_images .
Think we’ll get one for the Smorgasboarder office wall.
Curly one
And speaking of the Smorgasboarder
office, we wouldn’t mind a mural
adorning the hallway either. Our good
mate Curl, creator of our Aloha Barry
cartoon, is now doing commission
pieces as well. Check out his work on
Instagram @curlpi
Aussie surf culture personified.
Whilst we are on the topic of
celebrating Aussie surf culture
there is clothing brand that does it
tremendously well with tees and the
like adorned with handdrawn panel
vans and the most famous of all
Aussie sayings. www.kenoath.com.au
Ken Oath!

ontroversy
words: dave swan
A shark incident? Is this seriously where the
world is heading? I can only presume a great white
shark has taken offence to his or her sensory bite
being referred to as an “attack”. Why otherwise
would we be avoiding use of the word “attack”
when a shark bites a human.
I am curious though, following such a said “incident”, would
the appropriate protocol in future be for the victim to address
first respondents with something along the following lines,
“Excuse me dear chaps, it appears I’ve had a rather nasty
incident with a shark, and it appears to have made off with
my legs. If you do come across the said shark, so as not
to cause any offence, don’t outrightly accuse him of such
a misdemeanour, but please just kindly enquire whether he
has seen my legs and if so, if he could return them to me,
preferably not half digested.”
Now I am not sure about you but if you have a little bingle in
the car park you may refer to it as a traffic “incident”. If you are
t-boned at an intersection and the front of your car is ripped off
in the process and you are seriously injured, it’s not commonly
referred to as an “incident”, it’s a friggin’ “accident” and a
shark biting someone is usually an “attack”, not an “incident”,
not a “nibble” and certainly not an amorous “love bite”. Yes, it
may be a case of mistaken identity, but they are usually quite
serious consequences… for the human.
Nonetheless, in our increasingly politically correct world we
now have two Australian states – Queensland and New South
Wales – opting to refer to shark attacks in all future public
communications as “incidents” or “encounters”. Apparently,
the states are falling into line with scientific thinking. It appears
we need to sanitise the news so as not to threaten certain
protected species such as the great white shark, which
incidentally brings up the matter of the abhorrent “labelling”
of this poor creature. Hopefully common sense will prevail
amongst the peanut brigade and they will ensure in future
we refer to the great white shark as the non-size specific,
Caucasian, water-dwelling sentient being.
On the topic of this protected species, how did we come to
determine their numbers were in decline? When Gold Coast
surfer Nick Slater tragically lost his life in September 8 last
year as a result of a shark attack at Snapper Rocks, local
fishermen came forth to speak of a huge increase in great
white numbers they were encountering. This claim however
was quickly dismissed by shark expert and Associate
Professor of Environmental Science at Bond University, Daryl
McPhee, as he stated there was “no baseline” to compare it
to. This begs the question, if there is no baseline, how did we
determine their numbers were endangered? More importantly,
going forward, how do ascertain whether numbers have
signifcantly increased?
I would also like to address those two little gems that
always come up when there’s a shark “incident”: “You’re
in their domain”. Well thank you Einsteins for your brilliant
observation. The only issue here is that there appears to
be a bit of hypocrisy at play. What of the dingoes on Fraser
Island? They’re an endangered species but are immediately
euthanised following an incident. Do different rules apply on
land? The same goes for crocodiles in the far north of Australia.
Again, on the endangered species list but are euthanised if
posing a threat to human life. There is even an active culling
program to keep numbers in check in the Darwin harbour. Are
we not also in their domain?
The second gem is that old age adage, “Oh, you have more
chance of being struck by lightning.” Well I suppose its always
important to run the numbers when making such a sweeping
statement.
For the record, there were 7 fatalities as a result of unprovoked
shark attacks in Australia in 2020. Between 5-10 people die
each year in Australia as a result of lightning strikes. What’s
important to factor into this equation however is that great
white numbers are reportedly scarce whist lightning strikes
are quite common. A quick moving storm that swept over
Brisbane on May 10 this year saw Energex’s lightning tracker
record over 66,000 lightning strikes across the region. So, if
we consider the number of people on land compared to in the
water, and the number of sharks compared to the number of
lightning strikes, the chances of getting attacked by a shark
as opposed to being struck by lightning in percentage terms
is far, far greater.
Long story short, let’s cease with all the bs that comes out
each time there is an attack. Let’s admit we seemingly know
next to nothing about sharks or their numbers and get down
to finding a way we can protect both human life and sharks.
Ps. I am not calling for the indiscriminate mass culling of
sharks. We all know how playing with the food chain turns
things pear-shaped. It is no doubt why we are in the current
predicament.
SB / #50 / 16

photos: Kloe Lee Smith Photography

CRAFTY
The beach, the surf, the sand, the
salt, sunrises and sunsets are at
the heart of life for Jon Liebetanz
and Mandy Chapman of Rhema
Graphics.
For as long as both can remember
their lives have revolved around the
coastal lifestyle, in particular, around
art and surfboards.
For Jon, working with watercraft
started when he was just 14-yearsold
and picked up some work
crafting boats with Ray Woosley of
Pa Bendall-fame.
The skills he developed working with
Ray led him into the surfing industry
where he rolled through the phases
of glasser, sander, polisher and
finish coater for nine years building
boards with the likes of Bruce Greig,
Neal Purchase Snr, Burford Blanks,
Michael Peterson, Rob Webster and
Richard Harvey.
While Jon perfected the art of
crafting boards, Mandy’s every
waking moment was spent thinking
about surfing, sculpting or drawing
as she worked her way through art
stuff
college and beyond. Surfing runs
deep in her family having grown up
at Rainbow Bay with both a father
and grandfather riding the waves.
There’s even a photo of Mandy’s
father Des on the Rhema Graphics
website in 1926 as a youngster with
his first board at Kirra Point.
In 1984 Jon and Mandy combined
their talents and bought Rhema
Graphics, a graphics and screenprinting
specialist service for the
surfing industry, from its original
founder who had started it in 1979.
It’s a business they still run today
from Currumbin.
Jon said at the heart of everything
they do is to a desire to produce
amazing products. “We’re
developing new products and
printing processes. With the
popularity of dark tints and pigments
we have developed a product that
laminates totally transparent and
shows no ghosting at all.”
Over nearly 40 years in the business
Jon said they had seen plenty of
changes in the art, styles, board
design and materials used.
A more recent development has
been full wrap board silks but Jon
said he and Mandy seemed to now
be doing a little bit of everything
from the past four decades.
“We’ve got high performance
production boards still in crisp
black and white, to logos for retro
boards and boutique boards with no
expense spared, they’re beautiful!
“There is a place for everyone and
everything as guys will have a fish,
mid-length, performance board, and
even a big wave board and long
board in their quiver - well at least
I do.”
They said another highlight of having
been in the industry for so long was
the hundreds of repeat customers
they’d had over they years, and now
being able to work with the children
of the shapers they had worked with
at the start.
“Being a part of this wonderful
industry is our whole life for Mandy
and I.”
Find Rhema Graphics at
www.rhemagraphics.com or phone
Mandy and Jon on 07 5534 1469.
www.rhemagraphics.com
RABBIDGE
SURF
DESIGNS
PHONE: 02 4456 4038
MOBILE: 0427 767 176
EMAIL: markrab88@gmail.com
mark_rabbidge_surf_design
SB / #50 / 18

stuff
RARE
Old logos never die, they just get cooler and make a comeback.
At least, that’s what seems to the case when you delve into the pages of
t-shirts on offer at the website of Rare Surf Tees (www.raresurftees.com).
The brainchild of surf tragic Brett Stammers the business has at its heart
the desire to celebrate the history of the surf industry and the hundreds
of shapers (aka foamies) who have spent their creative time and energy
producing great boards and stylish art in a bid to catch the eyes of
surfers everywhere.
Scrolling through the pages of names and the art they created is like
taking a stroll through time.
The work of Bob Cooper, Nat Young, Gunther Rohn, Mike Davis, Shane
Egan and many more legends of the sport has been captured on wide
range of t-shirts – and Brett said there’s plenty more to come.
“We’ve picked up new shaper designs from Carrabine, Nev Hyman,
Phil Meyers Freeflight, Michael Anthony designs Torquay and Goodtime
Surfboards in Queensland,” Brett said.
“All this art is from the 70s.
“One of our bigger promotions this year will be for the Nev range of
t-shirts.”
Brett said he was inspired to curate the collection of surf artwork and
share it again via the t-shirts after meeting many great shapers as part
of his own surfing journey that had taken him around Australia and the
world hunting for waves.
He said the shapers were at the heart of the industry with great stories
to tell and for many surfers, their art was a reminder of the golden era of
surfing from the 50’s, 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s.
www.raresurftees.com
Old logos never
die, they just get
cooler and make
a comeback.
AUSSIE MADE
AUSSIE OWNED
The best Aussie Wax
this side of The Sun
Tested and Proven
Worldwide
GO GET SOME!
www.hueyschoice.com
@hueys_choice_surf_wax
Pic _ @pointshoot808
19 / #50 / SB

Philippa Anderson by @shot_by_bb_rad

stuff
Origins from the factory floor
3:30pm on a Wednesday afternoon in the early
nineties. A young 15 year old kid walks into Pacific
Dreams surfboard factory in Newcastle to start his
first day of work cleaning the factory.
A white haze of shaping and sanding dust fills the air
mixed with a sweet strong smell of polyester resin.
Planers screaming in the background cutt the skin
of fresh foam blanks that will be skillfully crafted into
finished custom made surfboards.
He grabs a broom, puts a dust mask on and starts
cleaning. A few months into the job the owner, Roy
Lee asks the kid, “Hey mate, I heard you could draw,
can you do a new logo for me? I want a P and a D
that fits into the nose of the board.” Yep, sure. The kid
replies.
That night on the dining room table he starts
sketching out a logo and with the help of his drafting
curves from tech drawing class from school, he
draws a clean interlocking PD of white text in a black
triangle.
This was the start of a long love affair with surf culture
and design.
A few years on the kid (Chris Totterman) became
a professional graphic artist working in some of
Australia’s largest advertising agencies and designing
for some of Australia’s largest brands, but surf culture
was still at the core of his dreams.
Chris’s design portfolio holds work for some big
names in the sport, Mark Richards (4x world champ)
and a stint at Mambo as a promotional triple one
artist. This became the spark to what would become
Chris’s vision for a surf-wear label, Foam Local
Supply Co.
Dare Jennings the owner of Mambo (and then Deus)
asked Chris to reproduce artwork for the original surfwear
label Crystal Cylinders that was sold in General
Pants stores.
While Chris was working on yet another perfect barrel
for Crystal Cylinders an idea sparked.
“How cool would this wave look if there was a local
landmark on it!” The pump house at Merewether.
So scraping together a few dollars to get some shirts
printed up, he thought he would give it a go.
The first batch sold out in a weekend after a market
stall at Surfest Newcastle’s largest surfing contest.
So with the added energy, Chris’s wife Megan
stepped in to help, cold calling surf shops around
Australia, “Not an easy thing to but we had nothing to
lose”. Megan said. “and after a few knock-backs we
got some orders!
“The orders were delivered as quick as we could and
to our surprise we were getting calls a few days later
from the shops that they had all sold out!
“A huge shout out to Beach without Sand in Avalon
and Wicks Surf in Collaroy for giving us a go.
“The momentum kept rolling with more stores coming
on board and the same thing kept happening, we
were selling out as soon as they were getting them.”
Image by @tomhoy_
21 / #50 / SB

stuff
Scraping together the profit from their sales they bought a camper
van and grabbed two groms from Merewether Surfboard Club, Tim
Dickson (now the owner of Slimes Board Store Newcastle and Zac
Heath a talented photographer, They were off on a road trip that
would last three months.
Basically, they drove from Newy down past Woollongong, swung a
right and then over to West OZ, up to Gnaraloo and then crawled the
whole way back around the coast to Newy.
Since the original road trip Foam has been doubling in growth for the
past five years and now holds around 90 accounts across Australia.
They also have a totally unique approach to how their apparel is
produced. It has been a conscious decision to keep as much of their
production in Australia.
“All our gear is made from 100% Australian cotton and it is all
printed right here in Australia. We believe in supporting local
businesses who in turn support us”, Chris said.
“We are 100% bespoke. Everything is made to order, the art we do
is customised for stores and we have a flexible ordering systems.
Stores buy what they need not what they have to. By being flexible
and working with the stores we don’t have excess stock lying around
so we never go on sale. We don’t believe in the wasteful nature of
fast fashion and mass-producing offshore just to get a better margin.
We are really proud to be able to print, pack and send in OZ.
As the brand has grown, Foam has started to give back to their
local surfing community by supporting local surfers on their quest to
make the world tour. The latest edition to the Foam family is Phillipa
Anderson, undoubtedly Australia’s most talented female surfer not
yet to make the world tour. Foam has stepped in financially to help
Philippa on her journey
“I am so stoked to be part of a local business that genuinely cares
for the people they work with. I am so proud to support Foam and
look forward to growing the brand”, Philippa said.
Foam is a real unique Australian surf-wear label built from the
ground up, steeped in real beginnings from surfboard factories. They
are a bunch of passionate surfers who have respect for the craft.
The name Foam is a tribute to the one thing that binds all surfers
together whether you are a single fin hipster or an aspiring pro, Foam
and waves are the one thing that we all froth over.
If you haven’t heard of Foam check out their website
or drop into your local independent surf shop and have a look.
They are a 100% bespoke Australian surf-wear label and they are
totally unique in the surf-wear industry.
Foam would personally like to thank all the shops and people who
have supported Foam along their journey.
www.foamriders.com
Image by @livdejong.jpg
“I am so stoked to be part
of a local business that
genuinely cares for the
people they work with.
I am so proud to support
Foam and look forward to
growing with the brand”.
– Philippa Anderson
SB / #50 / 22

stuff
Sylvester Images by @littlerubyvisual
Jake Sylvester Image by @eaduction_photography

stuff
Coastal Sports Kaikoura
“We’re a small shop living the dream in Kaikoura NZ, with
adventures from the surf to mountains at our doorstep. Since
2003, owner operated, hardware focused, passion run business.
Coldwater surf specialist, adventure gear, and all the fun stuff.
Shop smarter, surf more, and consume less.”
+6 3319 5028
www.coastalsports.co.nz
Maranui Surf Life Saving Cafe
“Pop out to Lyall Bay to visit the iconic Maranui Cafe. Here you
can forget about the time and tuck into something scrumptious
while gazing out over the beach, which is often filled with surfers
attempting to master the waves. Brimming with personality,
Maranui has a feel for colour and embraces all things eclectic
when it comes to design. Sitting above the Maranui Surf Life
Saving Club with a great coffee in hand and staring into the
glistening blue distance, you’re sure to feel the holiday vibes.”
+6 4387 4539 cafe@maranui.co.nz
Real Surf
“REAL SURF is a locally owned and operated CORE SURF
STORE specialising in SURFBOARDS, WETSUITS, HARDWARE
and RENTALS. Come check out our new store at 5/56 Kingsford
Smith St, Lyall Bay, Wellington!! We’re open 7 days a week with
a friendly and experienced team ready to help out with your next
purchase. Alternatively check out our website for the latest products
and deals at or social media @realsurf.co.nz”
www.realsurf.co.nz
PIHA SURF
Located on the Wild West Coast of New Zealand, Piha Beach
is a must see. And when you do come to Piha, you definitely
shouldn’t miss the opportunity to visit the PIHA SURF Shop.
Surfboards designed and shaped by Mike Jolly. New and used
surfboards available and full repair service. Rentals, surfing gear
and good advice. Onsite caravan accommodation and camping
sites also available.
122 Seaview Road, Piha Beach NZ.
+64 9 812 8723
www.pihasurf@xtra.co.nz
SB / #50 / 24

stuff
Controversy
All decked out
words: dave swan
If you own a special surfboard, you want to give it pride of place
in your home or workspace. Most importantly, you want the board
to be on display rather than the racks themselves. You want them
to disappear in effect, to become invisible. Enter Ghost Racks, a
seamless and incredibly strong clear acrylic rack system.
I can personally testify as to how good they are. That’s my super
special 40th birthday present adorning the wall above my work
desk. And thankfully the birthday message transcribed on the board
wasn’t completely lost in translation. I am still offended Andrew
Wells from Grown Surfboards would think my friends considered
me so ugly my nickname was “SWAMPDONKEY” and not in fact
“SWANDOGGY”.
Jokes aside the racks displaying my beautiful wooden surfboard are
very schmick. I was stoked to hear the guys at Ghost Racks had
recently expanded their range to now incorporate skateboard racks
as well. I mean to many of us, skateboards hold as much nostalgic
value as a surfboard, particularly to those of us who collect vintage
decks or ones of artistic significance.
Rather than being relegated to the shed, Ghost Racks are providing
a really nice, aesthetically appealing way of storing and displaying
your favourite decks. Best of all, racks can display skateboards with
and without wheels set up. There is horizontal and vertical wall racks
plus freestanding racks with zero damage to the board itself in the
setup. The decks are simply supported securely by the racks so the
board can be easily accessed and used. It’s basically a very cool
way to display and store your boards.
www.ghostracks.com.au
25 / #50 / SB

stuff
SUP’S UP
Located in the Auckland City suburb of Newmarket lies the
SUPcentre, one of the very few SUP / Surf shops located close
to the Auckland CBD, just a stones throw from bustling centre of
Newmarket. It’s an ideal spot for those seeking some respite from
the day to day toil of city life. It’s very accessible if you are travelling
either North or South through Auckland and just minutes from the
motorway.
SUPcentre is home to a bunch of genuinely friendly folk who
enjoy being out on the water, surfing, paddling or just going on an
adventure together. The team is well versed in the products they
stock and have the practical experience to answer any questions you
may have.
Initially the shop was set up as a SUP specific store. However more
recently, with the disappearance of many surf shops within the
Auckland City area, more and more folks have been searching out
surfboards and associated accessories. With this in mind, the team at
SUPcentre have expanded their offering to longboards, shortboards,
soft tops, surf leashes, wax and other surf speciality items for any
surfer requiring a quick stop before heading out of the city.
The large open plan shop is well stocked with not only the key
brands but also many new and exciting lines, often holding in store
items that would be hard to locate elsewhere.
It should definitely be on any passionate surfers or standup paddlers
list to visit if passing through Auckland. There’s a range of surfboards,
from brands such as Modern, Creative Army, Salt Gypsy, Elemnt and
7S. As well as SUP boards from Jimmy Lewis, SIC, Naish, Adventure,
Tom Carroll Paddlesurf, Deep Oceanboards, and Red Paddle Co to
name a few, paddles from Quickblade, Hippostick, and Axis line the
wall. With a huge line up of SUP specific accessories, a ’Tiki Bar’
atmosphere, big screen TV and comfortable chairs, you can easily
loose a few hours of your day.
The team has even gone to the point of acquiring a few specialty
longboards from the likes of Steve Morris at Morris Surfboards, as
well as Mid lengths and Fishes. So if hunting down a new shape it
may be worth stopping by.
A broad range of wetsuits and clothing from Patagonia, O’Neill, Rip
Curl and Sharkskin completes the picture for those looking to get
geared up for winter or summer.
Being located in Newmarket also comes with other benefits! The
SUPcentre is fortunate enough to have one of New Zealand’s best
Cafes right next door, Café L’afarre. Ideal to keep those not so
passionate entertained while you hang out.
www.supcentre.co.nz
visit
www.supcentre.co.nz
SB / #50 / 26

stuff
Explore Whangamata and the spectacular Coromandel
region with courtesy vehicle pick ups and drop offs.
Exstensive SUP hire range, surf or explore flatwater.
Visit the now natural wonder of Whenuakura Island and
its spectacular bush fringed lagoon.
Have a day off the water but wish to explore the
region? We have a wide range of E-Bikes available, or
walk our bush and coast tracks.
Pedal and Paddle is committed to
sustainability both land and sea with its
environmental protection policies!
Full range of NZ Kayaks, and all equipment
www.pedalandpaddle.co.nz
What makes a great wetsuit?
What really is a sustainable
wetsuit that is better for the
environment?
Sustainability is not just what your wetsuit is
constructed from, it’s also the lifespan and how
often you need to replace it. A few factors you
could consider when you are purchasing a new
wetsuit, especially where environmental impact is
concerned.
What is your wetsuit constructed from and how is
it constructed? The most common neoprene major
brands tend to use is petroleum based, breaking
down quickly with a high environmental impact. Liquid seams are a
common construction method but once broken are
difficult to near impossible to repair.
Yamamoto Limestone Neoprene has a higher air
cell construction and doesn’t break down as rapidly,
which means a much smaller environmental impact.
Making our wetsuits here in New Zealand means you get a product handcrafted utilising best quality
hardwearing Japanese Yamamoto Limestone neoprene constructed with durable/repairable stitching.
With the added bonus of the high air cell content which makes it incredibly warm as it doesn’t soak up
the water (they weigh nearly the same wet as dry) and they dry superfast.
Better quality = longer lasting = easier on the
planet and you’ll be able to stay out longer.
www.seventhwave.co.nz
SB / #50 / 28

HANDMADE SURF MAPS
by Guy Hastings
Over 100 hours per map to create the most detailed surf charts from around the world.
P : 61 422 175 706 | E : guy.hastings@hotmail.com
75 Paterson Street, Byron Bay, NSW, 2481, Australia www.guyssurfarimaps.com
29 / #50 / SB

stuff
WHO LOVES THIS “WORST NEW SPORT”?
Well, certainly not the editor or the interviewees of that 1988
Time magazine article, which labelled snowboarding as a
“breezy fad … a clumsy intrusion … not about grace and style,
but about raging hormones.” Perhaps partly true, however a
somewhat irreverent picture for a sport that is now suggested
to make up more than 30% of all snow orientated recreation
activities.
From the earliest days of the 1920’s prototypes, where WWI
soldiers stood sideways on barrel staves, through Sherman
Poppen’s 60’s inspired ‘Snurfer’, to Utah based Milovich’s
‘Winterstick’, and on to the metal-edged designs of Tom
Sims and the godfather of it all, Jake Burton Carpenter …
snowboarding has needed those hormones. As an ugly sister
amongst, as Time also described it, “the sleek precision of
downhill skiing”, snowboarding needed this type of nurturing.
The way your older brother made you find your own way
home in the dark. Despite his contempt and consistent
badgering, he still required you to actually ‘get home’, to
keep his own position tenurable.
How things have changed …
This “Worst New Sport” is now leading the movement and
progression of the snow sports industry. Despite having
countless acres of powder to themselves, snowboarding
has pioneered the New Age development of powder
skis. In fact, those ‘reckless youths’ of the 80s and 90s,
with their skateboard orientated mannerisms and antiestablishment
sub-cultures, were the founders of the current
world of freestyle snow, with disciplines in half-pipe, terrain
park and boarder-cross. And, just like that sibling rivalry, we
all end up sitting around that family dinner table that is the
modern world of X-Games and Winter Olympics … each sport
and discipline, worthy in its own right, however also quietly
respectful of the fact that they’re there because of the other.
So, what’s the New “Worst New Sport”?
NZSHRED has been at the forefront of snowboarding in the
Southern Hemisphere since its inception in 1986. And, as we
move into the 3rd decade of the new millenia, we continue this
drive by championing ‘the latest new thing’. Well, not really …
splitboarding has been around for quite some time. In fact, the
first suggestion of an idea was an article in an Italian snow/
skate magazine, with a Sims board having been backyard
split. From there, two clowns named “Kowboy” and “Wally”
teamed up to create a prototype and there you have it, the DIY
Voile Splitboard Kit, patented in 1994. Fast-track to 2021, and
despite the ravages of COVID on manufacturing and supply,
we have the largest assortment of splitboard binding options,
from brands such as Burton and Nitro, working off a template by
design leaders Spark R’n’D. Likewise, alternatives abound with
options from Karakoram, as well as those originals, Voile.
Splitboards themselves, are no longer ‘solid’ boards cut in half
in your mates back shed. They are now designed for specific
riding styles and abilities, and with a penchant towards their
dual-faceted snow engagement – not just the ride down,
however also the locomotion up. Nitro have shown themselves
to be not just the mainstream resort lap park-rats of old,
however equally as competent in producing kit for powder
hungry slack and backcountry
chargers – without fracturing the
essence of their ridership. A more
mellow approach, has seen Arbor
continue their mantra of “Mindfully
Created”, which has held them in steed for
some 25 years - anchoring the brand around
sustainability, craftsmanship and performance.
Finally, the brand of his namesake, Jeremy Jones,
is leading the splitboard generation in design,
application and aptitude as to why he even plays ‘this
so-called sport’. Once a US racer, it’s a far cry from
those heady days of asymmetric carving boards for
someone who now fits just as easily into the outerwear
of ‘road test’ mountaineer, as he does the suit and tie of
environmental snow warrior at the White House.
In fact, those ‘reckless youths’ of the 80s
and 90s, with their skateboard orientated
mannerisms and anti-establishment sub-cultures,
were the founders of the current world of
freestyle snow, with disciplines in half-pipe,
terrain park and boarder-cross.
Breezy? … A little!
Clumsy? … Sometimes!
Lacking Style and Grace? … Not in the slightest!
If this is the “Worst New Sport”, then the Team at NZSHRED are
super stoked to have continued to carry that mantel, through
the generations to where we are today …. After all these years,
we’re still just Snowboarders.
www.nzshred.co.nz
SB / #50 / 30

TAKING AUSTRALIA BY STORM
WEBSTERSURFBOARDS.COM.AU
+61 416 049 205
@WEBSTERSURFBOARDS

photo: Courtesy of Surf Lakes Holdings Pty Ltd
OOL
SB / #50 / 32

Wave pools, surf parks, surf ranches. Call them what
you will, love them or hate them - they’re a growing
force in the surfing world today, and with every
month the technology is getting better and better.
words: geoff crockett
33 / #50 / SB

photos: Courtesy of URBNSURF
SB / #50 / 34

At Smorgasboarder we last took an in-depth look at the wave pool phenomenon in Spring 2014 – fair to say a lot has changed since then –
although there’s still plenty of “proposed” venues that seem to be staying at “proposed” status for now.
Hunt across the world wide web and it would appear there are less than a dozen wave pools in the world right now (as of July 2021) where
surfers can grab their boards and head out for a feast of guaranteed wave action – and some of those, like Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, are really
only open to those with big dollars and professional skills.
While there’s sure to be some parks we’ve missed, the list below is a pretty solid idea of what’s out there and where they can be found if you
want to go visiting - once we’re all actually allowed to leave the country and travel again post-COVID at least!
Surf parks of the world….
URBNSURF (Melbourne, Australia –
www.urbnsurf.com)
Siam Wavepark (Tenerife, Canary Islands –
www.siampark.net)
The Wave (Bristol, UK – www.thewave.com)
Kelly Slater Surf Ranch (Lemoore, California,
US – www.kswaveco.com)
BSR Cable Park (Waco, Texas, US –
www.bsrcablepark.com)
Surf Snowdonia (Vale of Conway, UK –
www.adventureparcsnowdonia.com)
Sunway Lagoon (Bandar Sunway, Selangor,
Malaysia – www.sunwaylagoon.com)
Typhoon Lagoon (Orlando, Florida –
www.disneyworld.eu)
Wadi Adventure (United Arab Emirates –
www.wadiadventure.ae)
Roaring Lagoon (Sun City, South Africa –
www.suninternational.com)
Wave Park (Siheung, South Korea –
www.wavepark.co.kr)
Search a bit further and different reports talk of up to 100 more surf ranches to be
built worldwide that are in various states of proposal or development, including
several in Australia.
Most notably there’s URBNSURF’S second venue (URBNSURF Sydney) planned
for Sydney’s Olympic Park, Wisemans Surf Lodge 60 minutes north of Sydney, and
Surf Lakes at Yeppoon which is progressing talks with its local council to take their
R&D facility and turn it into a surf destination for the paying public. Surf Lakes are
also considering another venue in Brisbane – although details are scarce.
For Australia’s first surf park URBNSURF, the trip to opening was a $40 million,
seven-year journey that culminated with surfers taking to man made waves near
the airport at Tullamarine in Victoria in October 2019, before opening to the public
in January 2020. There was just enough time to stoke the flame of interest in the
newest surf experience before COVID came and shut the world down in March.
URBNSURF Group Brand and Marketing Manager Rupert Partridge said it had
been a wild ride.
“After creating first waves in late 2019, we opened URBNSURF Melbourne on
January 6th, 2020,” Rupert said. “We were fortunate to enjoy a busy Summer
season, before closing in late March for the first time. We re-opened briefly in June
and July, but were forced to close again for another 4 months before reopening
again in October due to COVID-19.
“The Victorian surfing community and surfers from around Australia embraced our
Intermediate and Advanced Sessions, hundreds of members got behind us, and we
became the ultimate training tool for local surfers during flat spells, and a place for
Melburnian surfers to sneak a few waves in before or after work, and on weekends
when their schedules were stacked.
Rupert said one positive to come out of the COVID challenges was the opportunity
to gather customer feedback from the first 10 weeks of their operations, and use
this feedback to refine the surfing and park experiences.
“We made the most of the lockdown - we designed new surf sessions and lessons,
created new swimming and visitor experiences, opened more of our lagoonside
amenities and park features, and readied Three Blue Ducks Melbourne for launch
(the park’s on-site restaurant by the Ducks opened in November 2020). We also
brought forward our annual winter maintenance to avoid a planned shutdown in
August, and engaged with our members and guests virtually so we could all stay
sane while being confined indoors.”
“Based on the demand for a playful, 1-2ft pointbreak style session that offered
an easier take-off, and bridged the gap between our whitewater Play In The Bay
(beginner) sessions and Intermediate Sessions, we developed our Cruiser Sessions.
“Barrel pigs and bodyboarders asked for a Beast Mode-only session that offered
more slabs along with less people in the lineup, so we developed our Expert
Sessions.
“And for guests who’d learned to surf with us, and who wanted to continue their
surfing journey and improve their skills, we developed four new lesson pathways –
Beginner I, Beginner II, Cruiser and Intermediate.
“During the peak of COVID restrictions, we needed to make some temporary
changes to our business operations for health and safety reasons, including limiting
park access to surfing guests only, closing certain areas of the park, imposing
capacity limits on indoor spaces, enforcing social distancing and implementing
enhanced cleaning measures.
“We’ve kept many of these measures in place, but thankfully the surfing and guest
experience isn’t impacted.”
35 / #50 / SB

photos: Courtesy of URBNSURF
SB / #50 / 36

IMG_20210715_114112825.jpg
The road back to business has been a little rocky – with Victoria
weathering some of the toughest restrictions in the country. If
anything, the lockdowns appear to have boosted enthusiasm for all
things outdoor – including surfing.
“In October, after four months of lockdown, the desire for
Victorians to escape the city, enjoy the outdoors and reconnect
with family and friends was overwhelming,” Rupert said. “Because
of this, our core URBNSURF community has grown dramatically
over the Spring and Summer, and we couldn’t be more thankful for
their loyalty and support.”
The park, which now employs about 50 people, has also attracted
plenty of attention from professional and celebrity surfers lured by
the chance to perfect their techniques on wave after wave without
the usual challenges of wind, tide, and crowds that are part and
parcel of the ocean surfing experience.
“We have a great relationship with both Surfing Victoria and
Surfing Australia, and through those partnerships we regularly host
training sessions for Victorian juniors, aspiring CT competitors and
professional athletes,” Rupert said.
“We welcomed Team Australia for a full-day training session back
in November 2019, which saw the likes of Julian Wilson hucking
backside aerials and Sally Fitzgibbons stomping big blowtails.
“Because of the mechanical perfection, frequency and
predictability of the waves we produce, our lagoon’s the ultimate
training tool for improving technique and perfecting manoeuvres,
and to quickly dial in new equipment. I remember watching Julian
(Wilson) paddle out on a new JS, surf one wave, paddle over to
the pier where Luke Egan was standing with an armful of gear,
swap out the fins, and paddle back to the take-off point in time for
the next set, and straight after he kicked out, he paddled over to
the pier to chat to Luke about the performance impact. It was like
watching an F1 pitstop for surfing.”
Even Thor himself, aka Chris Hemsworth, has taken a trip to
URBNSURF, taking time out from life in Byron Bay to smash out a
day on the waves.
“His first visit was on the same day as the Team Australia training
session in November 2019, and despite the media whirlwind that
follows him - choppers from all the major news stations were flying
over the park, in restricted airspace, trying to catch a glimpse of
the big fella - he made time for everyone, and hooted approvingly
when someone made a crazy pit.
“He surfed for four hours straight before heading out to dinner
and was back the next morning at 6am to go again. He’s a super
humble guy, rips, and loves getting tubed. He came back again
with his brothers and family just before Christmas 2019 and surfed
again for almost 10 hours straight, except when he was pushing
his kids in.
“We’ve also welcomed F1 legends Lewis Hamilton and Charles
Le Clerc, pretty much every AFL player that surfs - the Essendon
Football Club training hangar is across the road, so they’re always
popping in - and most Australian juniors, QS competitors and CT
athletes (current and retired). Billy Slater and Mark Philippoussis
are proud URBNSURF members.
While surfers are able to drop in for a day on the waves,
URBNSURF is also building a membership base, with more than
700 members signed up for regular sessions and Rupert said the
interest continued to grow.
“We have over 700 members now, and we’re stoked that our core
community continues to grow. Our members are the lifeblood
of the park, they’re always in the water or sitting at the Ducks
enjoying a drink. They’re incredibly passionate about what we’ve
created. They’ve supported us through the thick and thin, and
they provide us with invaluable feedback on a regular basis that
helps us shape the URBNSURF experience. We have three tiers of
membership – Foundation, Gold and Aqua – with options to suit
different surfing habits and abilities.”
www.revivalyamba.com.au
10% OFF
ONLINE
“REVIVAL10”at checkout
1/25 Coldstream Street, Yamba, NSW
Ph: 02 6646 3454
37 / #50 / SB

Just like anything when it comes to a day in the
surf, every day is an opportunity for both the
surfers and the venue to improve, and Rupert said
the team was focused on continuously developing
its offer and maximising the potential of the Cove
technology in partnership with Wavegarden.
“We’re constantly working on new wave settings
and session types,” he said. “We’re planning to
release a new “Advanced Turns” session in the
future, along with our female-only surf session
program “Surf and Sip” which also includes a postsurf
drink at Three Blue Ducks.
“We’ll continue to add further lessons to our
surfing progression pathway, and we are looking at
introducing advanced and expert coaching later in
the year.
For those north of Victoria, there’s good news
with construction set to begin later this year on
a second URBNSURF venue at Olympic Park in
Sydney. First riders are expected to hit the waves
there in Summer 2022/2023.
“We’re also exploring locations in Brisbane and
Perth, and we’re excited to take URBNSURF to
Queensland and Western Australia in the near
future,” Rupert said.
As for the surfing itself, Rupert says he’s found EPS
boards performed better in wave pools.
“They’re more buoyant in freshwater, and because
they sit slightly above the water line as compared
with PU, they’re a little easier to paddle,” he said.
“You can ride a smaller board (my usual shortboard
is 6’2” but I ride 5’10” in the lagoon) but it’s best to
keep similar literage, preferably a swallow tail with
plenty of nose rocker. My two favourite pool boards
are Will Webber’s Wing Yong model and the JS
MonstaBox 2020.”
It does get a little chilly in Melbourne in winter,
so wetsuits are another must. Staying local,
URBNSURF has partnered with Rip Curl for its
wetsuits, experimenting with materials to ensure
that they have suits that are “comfortable, warm,
flexible and most importantly durable as our water
is chlorinated”.
“We’ve been working closely with their wetsuit R&D
team since opening, and we’re collaborating with
Rip Curl to test the longer-term impacts of chlorine
and frequent use, with the goal of developing
“wavepool-specific” wetsuits. It’s exciting.”
As for other wave pools and how the pools
themself fit in the surfing landscape, Rupert is
philosophical.
“Initially, I think there was a part of the surfing
community that resisted surf parks and adopted a
puritanical view – that paying to surf in an artificial
surfing environment represents the antithesis of
what surfing should be about,” he said.
“I can understand this viewpoint and respect the
hesitation. I don’t want surfing’s soul ripped out
of it, either. But like with anything, once you try
something, see the merits of it, and understand its
place, your perspective starts to shift.
“Surf parks will never be a substitute for ocean
surfing. There’s something special and irreplicable
about being out in the blue, exposed to the
rawness of nature, with the wind in your hair
and salt in your eyes. But as a training tool, a
supplement for when the surf’s flat or the wind’s
howling onshore, a place to have a blast with your
mates, and as a safe, controlled environment that
helps everyone progress more quickly, surf parks
are incredible – and solve a massive problem for
urban and non-coastal residents: where’s my next
wave coming from?
“As existing technologies are improved and new
ones are developed, and more and more surf parks
are built in Australia and around the world, this
understanding and acceptance will grow. Love or
photo: Courtesy of URBNSURF
SB / #50 / 38

hate them, surf parks are here to stay.”
When it comes to the range of technologies in use
and the different styles of parks on offer Rupert said
they were all worth a look.
“I’d recommend all of them – each surf park offers
a unique, exciting and fun experience,” he said.
“It’d be hard to pass up a 20 second barrel at
the Surf Ranch. I’ve been, but couldn’t afford the
price tag. BSR in Waco is punchy, super rippable
and currently offers the best air section, although
Wavegarden’s new air wave is giving it a solid run
for its money.
“Wave Park in Korea boasts a heated lagoon and
the world’s biggest Cove, and if you can score
an invite to Palm Springs Surf Club – talk about a
desert oasis. To use an analogy, even if you surf
perfect Snapper every day, you still want to surf
D’Bah, Burleigh, Straddie. The same surfing logic
applies to surf parks.”
Rupert credits 11x World Champion Kelly Slater and
his Lemoore Surf Ranch as having paved the way
for surf parks to be culturally acceptable and notes
the industry has moved quickly since Slater’s model
was released.
“In a very short space of time the technology and
industry has rapidly progressed to the point that
now, for surfers lucky enough to have one close
by, it’s possible to incorporate surf parks into their
existing surfing habits and routine,” he said.
When it comes to the technology of it all,
URBNSURF Melbourne utilises Wavegarden Cove
technology to produce its swell. The technology
uses a modular system which allows the users to
add or remove modules depending on the size of
their pool. The wave generation comes from a series
of piston-powered-paddles that push waves out
either side of a pier in the centre of the pool. As the
waves move from deeper to shallower water they
stand up, crest and break. URBNSRF Melbourne
has 46 modules – the newest Wavegarden Cove
pool in Korea is larger and has 56 modules – adding
about three seconds of constant height to the
waves. >>
39 / #50 / SB

photo: Courtesy of Surf Lakes Holdings Pty Ltd
Another technology being trialled in Australia is that
of the “plunger” approach by the team at Surf Lakes
(www.surf-lakes.com.au) in Yeppoon, about seven
hours north of Brisbane in Queensland, Australia.
SB / #50 / 40

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Another technology being trialled in Australia is that of the
“plunger” approach by the team at Surf Lakes (www.surf-lakes.
com.au) in Yeppoon, about seven hours north of Brisbane in
Queensland, Australia.
The Surf Lakes system, capable of generating about 2000 waves
an hour, works by dropping a 1400 tonne plunger into the centre
of a lagoon, creating waves that are then massaged into different
levels of difficulty through careful adjustments to the terrain of the
lagoon’s floor. Think of dropping a massive stone into the centre of
a pond and then harnessing the ripples for surfing.
Surf Lakes General Manager of Global Operations and International
Marketing Director Wayne Dart said the Yeppoon facility was
built as a research and development hub to test and perfect the
wave technology that would be licensed to surf park operators
throughout the world.
The first waves at the 15ha Surf Lakes site rolled out in October
2018 and in the 3 years since the team has been working hard to
perfect their wave offering, achieving a 2.4m wave height in 2019,
and in August 2020 recording CWD stroke heights of 4.48metres
on sections of the Lagoon named The Island and Occy’s Peak
(after brand ambassador Mark Occhilupo). Pictures of that session
show a surfer standing upright with the barrel rolling over his head
as he drives to the clean water.
While Surf Lakes is selling licences to operate their technology
around the world, in good news for local surfers they’re also
keen to start their own operations and have entered into the
development approval process with the local council at Yeppoon
to eventually create a surf destination at their Yeppoon site.
“It is still an R & D facility, but we’re getting through the process of
approval so we can open to the public,” Wayne said. “It will require
a massive infrastructure upgrade – we’re looking at some time in
2022”.
Wayne said right now the organisation was looking to buy 100
acres of adjacent land with a view to creating an eco-camping
experience which would require minimal infrastructure. Ultimately,
stage two would be to build a hotel precinct with a bigger range of
services and accommodation.
He said already the site had generated considerable income for the
local community with $15 million spent so far on its development
and the extra flow on in terms of local accommodation, food and
beverage sales from the numerous guests who had been in town
to test out the facility and provide feedback.
In terms of the waves Wayne said he had witnessed the ongoing
development of the product over the past few years and was
excited by the success of their 2020 R & D sessions where the
system, working at 75% of potential had produced some really
large, challenging, waves that would suit professionals, along with
smoother, smaller waves for beginners.
“Realistically, we’ve proven the concept and we just want to fine
tune it,” he said.
For Wayne, COVID19 added another dimension to his 2020
experience, leading him to spend more than three months camped
with his dog on the side of the surf lagoon. The time by the water
came with plenty of surfing highlights.
He recalls a day in September where they surfed from sunset to
sunrise in perfect conditions.
“We ran a morning session. We ran a few waves right on sunrise,
just as the sun was coming up over the hill to the east,” Wayne
said. “Volcanic plugs sticking up out of flat ground, mist rolling in
over the water, oil smooth waves with fog drifting through.
“Then there was some of the session at the end of the day with the
sun setting over the volcanic plugs on the other side of the lagoon.
It was just unreal - It was just mind blowing.”
angleseasurfcentre.com.au
Ph: 0352631530 @anglesea_surf_centre
111 Great Ocean Road, Anglesea VIC 3230
SB / #50 / 42

photos: Courtesy of Surf Lakes Holdings Pty Ltd
43 / #50 / SB

Wayne said the intention for the Surf Lakes site
was to create an atmosphere that was as close to
the “beach lifestyle” experience as they could.
He said the organisation was investigating the
use of solar, wind and wave energy as a way of
powering the plunger and was keen to use the
strength of interest in its project to help spotlight a
number of key causes including an alignment with
the Great Barrier Reef Foundation and its work to
protect the reef.
“We want to educate people about the ocean. We
have an opportunity to take the ocean message to
a much bigger audience than just people living on
the Coast.”
In terms of the sessionable wave pools listed
earlier in the story that we found, four of the
11 utilise the Wavegarden technology, five
make use of the Murphy’s Wave system, one
is the Kelly Slater System and BSR Surf Resort
uses American Wave Machines PerfectSwell
Technology.
Scottish company Murphy’s Waves use a
hydraulic wave system where a large tank fills
above the pool then drops the water, either in
sequence, or all at once, to displace water and
create a wave which moves from the narrow end
of the pool to a wider bay, creating lefts, rights
and split peaks along the way.
Kelly Slater’s System is similar to the Wavegarden
concept – essentially a large underwater plow that
runs along a track in that was once a waterski
park. The patented underwater hull displaces the
water in such a way that it creates a barrelling
wave and 45-second rides. A downside being
it can only produce one wave every couple of
minutes.
PerfectSwell Technology uses air pistons along
a central wall to displace the water and create
a wave. It creates three-wave sets that come
every 70 seconds with the technology allowing
operators to create lefts and rights alternatively
during a session.
For wannabe wave pool resort owners, the choice
of technology is sure to play a big part in how they
price their sessions. The Surf Lakes technology
has the potential to provide 2400 rides an hour,
Wave Garden Cove hits about 1000 rides an
hour, while at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, there’s
one rider per wave and about 30 waves an hour.
A full day hire at Slater’s Surf Ranch will put you
back $55,000, while surfers at URBNSURF in
Melbourne, using the Wave Garden Technology,
are charged $79 for an hour-long session on
weekends and promised 10-12 waves on a fully
booked day – more if there’s less people in the
pool.
While this is a point-in-time look at wave pools
as of 2021, it would be remiss not to mention
there are other technologies out there in the
development stages including Webber Wave
Pools, Tom Lochtefeld’s system, Swell MFG,
Surf Poel and Cheyne Magnussen’s prototype
pneumatic system at Palm Springs where he
hopes to be able to dial in perfect waves “like a
DJ” for his surfing clientele.
photo: Courtesy of Surf Lakes Holdings Pty Ltd
SB / #50 / 44

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words: jase johns
MMXX
Everyone has a way to describe it … a pigeon-hole to put
it in … a cliff to throw it off … a memory to forget!
Some will be able to achieve this. However, for many, the
year of 2020, will last their lifetimes, and beyond!
Never before, have so many humans been impacted under
such similar circumstances, by such a common adversary.
The impacts have been catastrophic – loss of freedoms,
loss of livelihoods, and unprecedented loss of life. Every
human has felt the wrath of this invisible, nevertheless very
tangible enemy.
Yet, there have been positives and these have been
significant. When looked at, as the Human Race,
mankind’s frailties are often reduced to the mere physical
– we are but skin and bone – we bend, we break, and
unfortunately, we’re also susceptible to disease.
However, from this personal invasion has seen a
strengthening of the human nature. Sure, there is still the
aura of ‘every man for himself’ and the greed and selfcentredness
that associates with this. But, in amongst this
cloud of mediocrity has been a definite intensification of
humans-looking-after-humans.
Both of our fine countries have been populations of
somewhat understated vernacular … while one says
“Sweet As, Bro”, the other simply says “No Wuckas”.
Now, in the generation of the “C” Word (not the other one),
we all live with a dream of normality. What we would give,
to have our lives again? … What we would give, to be able
to live as we once did? … What we all would give, to have
those humans back that have left us!
2020 has taught us - if nothing else – that we are infallible.
Some messages have been soft and silent … in the
background, and hard to hear. However, unfortunately,
others have been so very close, cutting, loud and clear.
Terribly, so many us have lost those so close to us. The
mist of mental illness grows into a cloud that hangs so
very much above the mass of Us. It’s hard to understand
before, and so incredibly hard to comprehend afterwards.
We cannot let this slide! This cannot be our defining
moment! We are losing people, but they’re not just people
… we are losing dads, wives, brothers, girlfriends, partners
and significant others. In the words of ‘The Dude’, “this
aggression will not stand, Man”. We need to be smarter.
We need to learn. This is our chance to improve our mana
… create our intellectual presence … be human and be
present with those who are the most important to us.
We have learned over this very short and poignant period,
that Life is not just fragile – but, it is endearing, engaging
and unfortunately, alienating. We have lost some of the
very best of Us … and unfortunately, those tears will take
a very long time to roll down our cheeks. We can but
hope, that we can be just that … we can be just “human”.
In memory of our very, very Best Mate,
Craig “Dowza” Dow”
SB / #50 / 46

words: geoff crokett
It was March 2013 when we last caught up with Shed Nine’s Eddie Wearne.
When we caught up for this edition, he was just going into lockdown number
five as Victoria continues to battle the dreaded COVID. Fair to say
plenty’s happened in Eddie’s many lives in the past eight years…
photo: courtesy Eddie Wearne

1. Eddie the Businessman:
Shed Nine is Eddie’s business. While it’s online
too, the core store is at 362 Dundas St, on the
way to Rye Ocean Beach, aka “The Caree”, in
Victoria, where he sells all things surf, skate,
snow, bodyboards, wetsuits, hardware and
apparel.
“I’m a uni drop out, who had 57 odd jobs from
a paper round in primary school until I opened
the shop. Once I had a licence, the bosses were
always aware I’d be leaving to go for the next
surf trip.
“Living life on the road from a panel van was a
little easier and more affordable than it is for the
youth these days. Petrol was only 17 cents per
litre, so you could drive to Sydney on 50 bucks.
“I’ve been here, in-store at Shed Nine, for 15
years this October and, despite an addiction for
warm warm water holidays, I have no plan on
leaving.”
Packed to the brim, the shop has become as
much a destination, as a retail outlet. It’s a place
where customers can go for good, hands-on
advice and inspiration. The shop has a huge
range of surf, skate, snowboard and bodyboard
gear. Every spare surface has something to
look at, floor and ceiling included. Out the back,
there’s an outdoor, undercover entertainment
and barbecue area, complete with a grom-sized
skate ramp, an art room full of vintage treasures,
a shaping and ding repair bay and, in winter, a
snowboard hire and tuning room.
Eddie said the shop had grown a solid following
online and his focus is on trying to be a positive,
healthy, strong and open-minded role model to
the groms coming up in the local area – many
of whom the shop sponsors across a range of
sports.
While the shop stocks many premium labels,
Eddie said their own boutique range of Shed
Nine
Surfboards, Skateboards, Bodyboards and
Apparel were of premium quality too, and,
where possible, were Australian made. “All
Shed Nine apparel, is printed, embroidered and
tagged locally and some of the clothing is 100%
Australian-made. Something that’s hard to find
these days!”
2. Eddie and Lockdowns:
“Times are uncertain, now more than ever and
180 days of stage 4 lockdown deep, still going
with no clear end in sight, but I’m also blessed
to be in a surf shop on the coast, while so many
shops in the city have now closed for good. I’m
lucky that people have still supported us.”
“As long as we have the basics like food,
water, a roof over our heads, and something to
stimulate us, we’re ok. In my case that’s a neverendinq
quiver.
“Making more money and keeping up with the
Joneses, really isn’t that important. Keeping
healthy and being good to your friends and your
family is.
“Where we are, on the Mornington Peninsula,
there has been an uproar about us being
deemed Melbourne Metropolitan where for
example, when I look out my shop windows
sipping a beer, all I can see is an empty car park
and paddocks.”
“We non-essential sole traders have copped
it harder in “Metro Melbourne” than most of
Australia but still we are blessed compared to
most of the world and we’ve had time to both
reflect and learn.
“Looking through my folders to find these
photos for your iconic Smorgasboarder 50th
Edition brought back so many great memories
and made me appreciate how lucky I have been
to have lived, and still be living, my dream.
“Sadly, I lost nine friends to suicide from four
high schools and uni, during these lockdowns
last year, mostly middle-aged men with kids.
Providers. That was really tough.
“Lockdowns are like hold downs. We have to
keep paddling through the cold, small, grovelly
days, and the chunky onshore messy days, to
keep fit, to ride the solid waves of our dreams,
but then, on those days we cop monster clean
up sets on the head. We hold our breathe, duckdive
and get held down, knocked around, time
slows down, up for a breathe paddle like all hell,
and the next lockdown lands on our head. We
get locked down, but we get back up again.”
3. Eddie the family man:
Last time we talked to Eddie, his daughter
Chloe had not yet arrived, but was very close to
making her appearance. Now, the seven-yearold
Chloe’s favourite sports are snowboarding
and skateboarding and she loves the beach
and playing in the surf. She’s added a spark
to Eddie’s eyes and he credits family life with
helping him through a few tough years.
“I think being a father has been a huge step in
becoming more successful and a better person,
it’s like I’ve got to man up here, my daughter
deserves me to be the best I can be.
“Becoming a father was the greatest thing
that ever happened to me although I didn’t
realise it at the time. It takes time and it’s a
big adjustment. The reward you get back from
being a father and seeing children follow in your
footsteps makes you want to be a better human.
Seeing them doing better than you were doing at
their age across the boards is rewarding.
“She’s been to the snow every year since she
was born, except last year because of COVID,
been on a surfboard since she was two and a
skateboard since she could walk – she drops in
better on a skateboard at seven than I did when I
was fourteen. Kids these days!
“I’m lucky to have a wife who understands me
too – she’s a great mother who understands
and has been supportive of my bi-polar
condition and has allowed me the freedoms to
travel to Indo or up the Coast or whatever for
surf trips”.
4. Eddie The Musician:
“I had a music scholarship as a teenager, as
a clarinettist to a prestigious boy’s school but
when the time came I that I had reached my
potential on that instrument, I asked them to
teach me singing, guitar or drums and they said
no. So I kinda told ‘em to stick it and never went
back.
“That was Year 10 and I ended up having a few
single parent family-type dramas at home, so I
slept under the yacht club at Point Leo in winter
and surfed every day for a few weeks.
“I returned home, skipped school for six months
and went surfing, mostly on a bodyboard on
the bus. Things improved at home again - so,
I ended up going to four high schools. I taught
myself the guitar and drums and have written
over 100 originals across multiple genres.
“I’ve been in a few bands but mostly just for
fun. I might drop a few tracks on Spotify or
something but I have been talking that up for
years and mostly just keep surfing ha ha ha!
5. Eddie the supporter of
great causes:
Around 2014 Eddie and his crew launched a side
project “The Vagrant Contingency” a humble
label of locally made surfboards and apparel.
While Shed Nine is the core store and
community business and sponsors athletes, up
and coming groms and the local community,
Vagrant, or Vagrant Shapes is a more subtle
back burner, which is more focussed on
supporting issues of environmental awareness.
The same range of custom boards are locally
made and can be ordered under either label.
“I supervise the range of boards and while I have
shaped quite a few boards, these days,
the reality, in most cases, is that the machine’s
do most of the actual shaping.
“We have access to couple of local shaping
machines and factories and combining our
passion and knowledge then sharing the love
with a variety of local shapers and glassers
embraces the local community.”
For many years Eddie was also the Victorian
representative of Matty Dee’s FTW Revolution
movement – which was all about using
money made from the sale of apparel to raise
awareness for the issue of suicide and its
prevention. For Eddie, who has been diagnosed
with bi-polar disorder and now treats it without
meds, mental health is an issue close to his
heart and he’s proud to have been part of the
journey and to have been able to be there for
those who dropped by the shop for a chat over
the years.
“While I still battle the ups, the downs, and
the sideways at times, the ocean and regular
exercise has proven better in my case than
medication,” Eddie said.
The reward you get back from
being a father and seeing
children follow in your
footsteps makes you want to be a
better human. seeing them doing
better than you were doing at
their age across the boards is
rewarding.

photo: habib
photo: michael egan
6. Eddie the injury prone:
“So, I’ve had over 35 fractures, starting at five-yearsold
when I fractured my left arm doing a double flip
off a swing - when I came to, my arm was like an
“m” shape.
“Another wild one - I was on a surf trip with Pottz
and some other mates and I broke three ribs nightsurfing
at Lances left. That one was wild. I was
pretty relieved to make it to the beach that night.
Pottz said it was one of the gnarliest things he’d
seen. You could have put your fingers through the
holes in my ribs and touched my lungs. A close call
for sure.
“Since the last interview I’ve had a left knee surgery,
right knee ACL replacement – and my right shoulder
rebuilt with three screws, a hook and a plate.
“With the shoulder injury, which has haunted me
the most, I was working up at the snow, carrying
20 kilos on my back, selling hooded jumpers. We
had a great day and at the end, I fell forward and
separated my shoulder.
“The other surgeries were kind of a mixture – stagediving
at a Bodyjar concert I tweaked my left knee,
then spinning on a snowboard finished it off.
“The right knee, I was dancing at a festival, I was
carrying a mate who was crowd surfing, overhead
when my right knee collapsed and my right foot
kicked me in the right eye. I heard a popping noise
and ‘bang’ - full ACL rupture. I remember surfing
mate, Tasmanian charger Kyron Rathbone, helping
me get back to bed at the shop then he managed
the shop for a month after I had a surgery while I
was unable to walk.
“Out of eight years since your last interview, I’ve
spent about three out of the water in recovery
from injuries and surgeries. I’m the first to admit I
was medicated when these injuries occurred and
medication and alcohol can be a bad combination,
so I left the meds behind.
“I think if I had any other job, or I didn’t have the
flexibility of running my own surf shop, it would have
definitely been harder to keep coming back. Even
sitting in the shop all day, you look at the boards
and you really want to heal up and ride them again.”
Proving there’s always a positive, Eddie said the
shop did benefit from his injuries.
“I designed websites, skate, surf, snowboard,
bodyboard and clothing ranges, set up a real estate
company in Indonesia, and spent plenty of long days
instore during the recoveries”.
“Sure, there are plenty of days where many of us
struggle to find the motivation to get out of bed, or in
my case being stuck in bed for a month crawling to
the toilet post-surgery alone at home. At the end of
the day, the show must go on and it’s not so much
like work when you’re following your heart and doing
what you love. At the end of the day, we all have to
pay to play!”
photo: grommet
7. Eddie’s ever-growing quiver:
If it floats, rolls, or slides there’s every chance Eddie
has given it a go in the ocean, on land or in the snow.
The key has been variety.
“There are 15 boards in my car right now – I’ve
got a transit van with 12 seats – it’s also the snow
bus when we take trips to the snow. There’s a mal
in the van – three fishes, two or three softboards
under shoulder high with twinnies, a few different
bodyboards, an alaia, a gun, a surf skate, a hydrofoil,
hand-planes, the works. They say we don’t stop
playing because we get old, we get old because we
stop playing.”
One of the newest rides in his quiver is the hydrofoil,
a weapon he says has saved him during lockdown
and in his return from multiple injuries, and one that
he is happily taking his time to master.
“I was in a bit of a bad way mentally during the onset
of COVID after my life-long dreams of setting up villas
in Indo were shattered and I was missing the regular
trips to quality waves.
“The hydro foil has been great because where we live
there are so many options all around in all different
swells and a whole new thrill.”
Eddie’s part of a posse of 13 local surfers who hit
the waves whenever they can and he said when
the conditions were right, they even could be found
walking to one of the many piers on Port Phillip Bay,
jumping in with their foils and riding the waves back
to shore.
“The foiling has been really good for me mentally
and physically too. I was a bit depressed after my
shoulder surgery and got to 100 kgs a year ago. Now
I’m 87kg – I got down to 83 by dieting and focusing
on health – and foiling helped to get me back there.
The pumping has strengthened my knees and helped
with fitness.
“I try to only go foiling if the waves are not worth
surfing – if the waves are good for surfing on anything
else or the slabs are good for bodyboarding, I’ll do
that, because I want to ride them all for as long as
possible – to shred forever.
8. Eddie and his Indo adventures:
“I’ve been to Indo 37 times. I’ve always been very
passionate about Indo – working here to surf there.”
Last time we caught up with Eddie he and his
wife Claire were dreaming of setting up some
accommodation for their friends to stay at in
Indonesia and surf. They followed that dream and set
up two villas in Bali and one in Sumbawa and had
them rented out via Air BnB until COVID hit and travel
stopped for everyone.
Since then, they’ve had to let one of the Balinese
villas go, and Eddie said the other would go when its
lease ran out, though he’s locked into Sumbawa for
longer.
“That threw me into depression a bit, I felt like a
failure, fell deeper into debt, but you’ve got to be in it
to win it. No-one gets anywhere great without taking
risks and following their heart!
“The villas were the cream on the cake. We are lucky,
we still have our shop. So many people and friends
are so much worse off than us - in Indo and around
the world. We really are blessed here.”
SB / #50 / 50

photo: diong
photo: nando
photo: diong
9. Eddie and the future:
“I dream of great futures for the groms where
I live, may they grow to make the most of the
opportunities available, shred on the boards they
ride and enjoy happy, fulfilled and successful lives.
“I dream of charging on annual trips to Indo around
Oz and the world in my 60s, hopefully with my
daughter in her 20s. I’m looking forward to that
chapter. I want to keep healthy and be able to surf
until I’m in my 70s or 80s. I plan to be in the water
most days riding something until the very end.
“I think most cold-water surfers have daydreams of
growing old somewhere warmer, but when I think it
through, home is definitely, where the heart is.
“By practicing the Wim Hoff method, rarely turning
on heaters, you can adapt too and embrace the
cold. Besides, these days - the wetsuits really are
that good too.
“The proximity to such consistently powerful surf,
the snow and the city make where I live a wonderful
place to be. The local community, friends and
family, all over Victoria, in Melbourne and on the
Mornington Peninsula are so entrenched in my
heart, that I will forever call her my home.
“So yeah, I guess the future is to further refine our
products, embrace the culture and our community,
keep the dream alive and hopefully continue to
inspire my daughter to keep on the boards and in
the water.
“They say you’ll never work another day if you’re
truly following your heart and doing what you love.
“As I age, I plan to take on a little less so I can keep
on paddling most days, that way, hopefully I’ll never
have to really actually grow up,” he says with a
laugh.
Shed Nine is at 362 Dundas St, Rye. Find them
online at www.shednine.com or @shednine
Or @eddiewearne
photo: pk
photo: Matt Burgess
photo: nando
“There are 15 boards in my car right now – I’ve got a
transit van with 12 seats – it’s also the snow bus when
we take trips to the snow. There’s a mal in the van –
three fishes, two or three softboards under shoulder
high with twinnies, a few different bodyboards, an alaia,
a gun, a surf skate, a hydrofoil, hand-planes, the works.
They say we don’t stop playing because we get old, we
get old because we stop playing.”
51 / #50 / SB

PARADISE
stuck in
words: alex benaud
Who are you?
I’m Oliver Taylor and I grew up on the Sunshine
Coast in Queensland, and my partner Alannah
Sabine is from Perth, Western Australia.
How did you end up sailing the ocean on
your boat?
We actually bought our catamaran Paradise
in Darwin in October 2017 and moved onto
it straight away as live aboards. We both had
no sailing experience but knew that this is
something we really wanted to do, so over the
next 8 months we learned to sail by crewing
on other people’s boats on the weekend wet
season races in Darwin. After a few races
crewing on other boats, Alannah and I took
out Paradise on out own and finished a few
races. We would take out the boat in the worst
conditions when massive storms were rolling
in. People used to think we were crazy but I just
told them it’s better learning here how to sail
in bad weather than later on when we are not
ready for it. We felt we had learned enough to
sail to Indonesia and left in June 2018!
What was the main idea or motivation
behind setting sail?
My dream since I was a grom was to go to the
Mentawaiis to surf some of the best waves
in the world but I could never justify the price
of doing a boat trip when the rest of Indo is
so cheap. So I never made it up there always
went to different parts of Indo. In 2015 when
we were at Rote Island we met up with some
friends that had a yacht that had been sailing
through Indo for years telling us amazing
stories of uncrowded waves. We thought this
is something we could do we need to save up
and buy a boat and sail to the Mentawais.
Has it been as good, worse or even better
than you had imagined?
Sailing through Indonesia has been way better
than I could have imagined, we island hopped
from Rote Island East to Nusa Tengarra, west
all the way to West Sumatra surfing and diving
everywhere along the way. I also do a lot of
spear fishing and there are so many good fish
around we always manage to keep the fridge
topped up!! But now that we are in the middle
of the Covid-19 lockdown it has been amazing.
There are no crowds or very small crowds if
there are any and perfect waves.
What does a day in the life of Oli and Lana
consist of onboard?
We usually wake up and check the wind in the
morning and decide where to surf that day over
a coffee and a fruit smoothie. Last year I was
working as an electrician building a surf resort
but because of Covid-19 I no longer have work
so now I am making the most of it and living
my dream!!! Alannah is helping set up a base
here in the Mentawaiis for a foundation called A
Liquid Future helping set up an English school
and doing environmental projects with the local
kids so that keeps her busy when she’s not out
surfing!!
Has anything scary or out of the ordinary
happened?
We have had a few scary moments during our
time in Indo from having the props stuck in
fishing nets and having to cut ourselves free at
night to having lightning hitting the water about
100m away watching sparks and smoke come
off the water praying it doesn’t hit our mast!!!
But probably the scariest thing in my life
happened at the end of 2019. I was the
passenger in my mates tinny travelling at night
to the local village and we were hit by one of
the charter boat tenders. Their boat was a lot
SB / #50 / 52

We would take out the boat in the worst
conditions when massive storms were
rolling in. People used to think we were
crazy but I just told them it’s better
learning here how to sail in bad weather
than later on when we are not ready for it.
bigger and had no lights and hit us really hard.
By the time I saw them I only had enough
time to turn around and yell out to my mate
driving that there’s a boat coming, I turned
back around and it was right there and I put
my hands in front of my face and copped the
full impact of their boat with my hands and
face. I managed to get a lift into town and then
jumped on the back of a scooter and got to the
local hospital where I had 16 stitches in my lip
and xrays of my wrist and jaw. My wrist and
pallet were broken and had dislodged 7 teeth
into to top of my mouth. By this stage it was
about 2 am and I then had to charter a wooden
long boat with 2 40 hp outboards 80NM across
the Chanel to Padang (about 5 hours) where
we went straight to the hospital for further
treatment. I spent 4 days in the hospital in
Padang before flying back to Australia for
further surgery!
What are some moments you’ll never forget?
We had one of our engines being repaired in
Padang so we were stuck there waiting for
parts in March 2020 right as Covid-19 was
just starting to kick off. An official letter was
released that the Mentawais were closed no
one was allowed in and surfing was banned ! At
this stage we were stuck in the Padang River
tied alongside another boat with one engine
out of our boat, 2 days later our engine was
fixed and put back into the boat. We needed
to get out so we decided to leave at 3 in the
morning and sneak out and head as far south
as we could where we knew no one would
be to bother us. We met up with our mates
on another private yacht that left Padang the
night before at 2am and we anchored at a
break called the hole and spent 2 months there
surfing some of the most perfect uncrowded
waves I have ever seen until we ran out of cash
and supplies and had to head north to a major
town to restock.
What’s the plan if you have one?
We love it here in the Mentawais. The waves
are epic and you can generally find uncrowded
waves even in the busiest times and there is
such a great community here. We plan to stay
here for as long as possible!!
53 / #50 / SB

Windmills and waves
words: alex benaud
2020 was a disaster-ridden year with bushfires in Australia,
avalanches in Europe, never seen before storms in the
UK, and of course Covid-19. The positive effects of these
disasters will never outweigh the negative ones in a million
years but as the old cliche goes, ‘when life gives you
lemons, make lemon juice’. That’s just what Remi Petersen
did when Storm Ciara tracked east from the UK towards
his country the Netherlands. As the West coast of the
Netherlands was battered and bruised by the unforgiving
force of Storm Ciara, Remi, and co decided to try their
luck in no other place than the eastern facing Amsterdam
Harbour. I got in contact with Remi as I was curious to
know how the hell there could be waves in Amsterdam.
Who are you and where do you come from?
Who am I? My name is Remi Petersen, who I am though,
I’m not quite sure haha. I’m a fully grown grom from J-bay
who has a Dutch mom and surfs (on occasions) for and
also in The Netherlands.
Tell us about that session during storm Ciara?
Well, storm Ciara was strong enough to produce some
special back to back sessions. It’s a weird but wonderful
thing to surf in NL (Netherlands), To get waves you need
a storm but even with that, the geographical location in
relation to the UK means one usually has to look for the
exposed spots as the swell gets blocked. That day was
epic cause not only did it allow enough swell, but there
were certain windows where the wind would switch and
come in from behind the wall allowing almost oil glass
conditions when there were 120 km/h gust coming through
almost giving the illusion of being in a wave garden.
Did you plan to surf in the Port of Amsterdam
or was it a spare of the moment thing?
Well, let’s just call it the port of skiffa to pay respect haha.
But yeah, I know it was way blown out everywhere else but
I wanted to surf... the drive from where I was isn’t short so
I almost gave up until one of the boys told me they think
it could be all time. So, I jumped in the car and got there
2 hours before dark and surfed all the way through. Well
worth it to say the least.
What is the surfing community like in general in
the Netherlands?
Honestly... Like everywhere else. Might sound shitty, but
you have the cool cats, the kooks, the legends, the wanna
be’s, the brands, the anti-brand and everything in between.
Although what blows me away every time I come here and
what is truly different, is that when its 5 degrees, 1 foot and
gale-force winds, there will be 50-100 people in the water
(guys and girls) from all different levels out there doing this
sh*t... The commitment is real...
Where do you guys usually surf and how often?
By far the main surf scene is in Scheveningen (Den Haag).
It’s the most consistent spot and when I was living here I
could surf 2-4 times a week on average if I was ultra amped
and would use a longboard. I have had amazing surfs at all
the different spots, but Scheveningen is still my favourite to
have some fun rip bowls.
5 degrees, 1 foot
and gale-force
winds, there will
be 50-100 people
in the water (guys
and girls) from
all different levels
out there doing
this shit... The
commitment is
real...

photos: Sophia Gaugerica Steevensz
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55 / #50 / SB

Sumbawa Periscopes
Water baby
words: jimmy ellis
Looking for waves back in 1972
For those of us lucky enough to live in Australia
and New Zealand finding our way to the waves has
always been a relatively easy affair.
For surfers in other parts of the world, the same
cannot be said.
While surfing was blooming in Australia in the
1970s, in Peru it was a different story altogether.
The Peruvian surfing spirit was present – with
a group of about 70 surfers riding the waves
consistently, yet the economic conditions made it
difficult for them to travel.
In the 1980s, Peru faced one of its worst economic
crises and fell into civil war. Chronic inflation driven
by political change and the devastation of droughts
and floods brought on by the El Niño phenomenon
saw 55% of Peruvians living in poverty in 1989, and
the average annual income of Peruvians falling to
between AU$100-$500.
In 1990, things began to change. Economic
growth driven by the liberal economic reforms of
a new government and an end to terrorism helped
to improve employment, wages, infrastructure
spending and quality of life.
Along the coast of Peru, the lucky surfers who had
made a life for themselves working and surfing in
the 1990s had been quietly living the best years of
their life. It was in these times that Chiara Guidino
Bruce and her bothers Luciano, Fabio and Talia
were born into a surfing family in Punta Hermosa,
Peru.
For Chiara, the ocean became her life, both as a
passionate surfer and an academic.
“My dad started surfing when he was young. He
and his friends started searching for new places
to surf in Peru. At that point very few waves were
known in the coast of Peru,” Chiara said. “That’s
how he arrived at Los Organos - an incredible place
up north in Peru, where there was only sand, dust,
waves and amazing biodiversity - despite being
located in the middle of the desert.
“I started surfing when I was 10-years-old. I was
lucky that I always knew what my passion was, as I
grew up close to the ocean. So, I decided to study
marine biology, and my journey began.”
Chiara’s passion for all things marine allowed her
to craft a life of travelling, surfing, and studying.
Marine Biology was a new subject of study in Peru
and Chiara got in at the ground level.
“I was part of the first class of marine biologists in
Peru at the Universidad Cientifica del Sur, where I
now work as a professor and research associate.
So, I knew that I was going to have to make my
path, to actually work and live as a marine biologist
in Peru.
“As a student in Peru I started volunteering up
north for a company called Pacifico Adventures,
doing research and as a guide on whale watching
trips, this is when I knew about my passion for
cetaceans (whales, dolphins and porpoises).
“That’s why in my university years I volunteered
in a cetacean Museum in South of Argentina, in a
beautiful place called Tierra del Fuego. I also spent
an entire summer volunteering in the Galapagos
National Park, where I had the opportunity to
travel to all the islands researching cetaceans and
occasionally surfing.
“With all of this experience I decided to study my
masters abroad,” Chiara said.
Chiara went on to study for a Masters’ Degree in
Marine Science and Management in Sydney, while
her brother Fabio was living in Margaret River, WA.
“Whist continuing my masters, I visited Australia
and Indonesia and travelled around.”
After an extended stay in Australia Chiara returned
to Peru to try and make a living as a marine
biologist in her own country. It was in Peru that
she met her future husband, Raul. After they were
married, and the birth of their daughter Lara (who
began surfing at 2), Chiara joined a local NGO
Prodelphinus, where she worked with artisanal
fisheries.
Chiara’s focus was on the bycatch problem of
small and large cetaceans that exists in Peru. She
also started working as a professor and research
associate in Cientifica del Sur University where she
continues to work today.
Chiara said she and her family had been traveling
and surfing when they can, although they were
forced into a no surfing lockdown for six months
during 2020.
While surfing has now returned to Peruvian
beaches, the political climate has become delicate
and in June 2021, Peru hit the voting booths in the
latest democratic election.
Chiara said what came next for them was not clear:
“Peru, as a nation, has been severely impacted
by the Covid 19 pandemic. And now, radical
communism is on the verge to take over political
power in Peru. Therefore, the economic situation in
Peru is very unstable.
“The rural population in Peru is tired of corrupt
politicians stealing the government money. So,
half of the country is voting for communism, as
they want change. But communism hasn’t worked
economically speaking, in any of other Latin
American countries.
“Community sentiment is agreeable that in Latin
American countries, communism puts people’s
dreams into the shadows and blurs the line of
governance to feel like the community is being
controlled. These clouds are looming in over
our freedom.” Chiara said she and Raul are now
seriously considering their options around where
best to settle and raise their two young girls – with
a possible move to Canada high on the list.
Stay tuned.
SB / #50 / 56

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Carcavelos with Saint Julian Fortress in the background
SB / #50 / 58

picture
Por
perfect
ugal
words: dave swan
800km of coastline, incredible surf breaks of all descriptions, beautiful sandy
beaches and whitewashed villages with cobblestone streets perched atop dramatic
end-of-the-world cliffs. There are not enough superlatives to describe Portugal. Ohh,
and then there’s craggy mountaintop castles set amidst misty woodlands, stunningly
preserved palaces and magnificent monasteries that rise above quaint medieval towns.
That should start to paint the picture now.
To put it in simple terms, your eyes and mouth will be agape with astonishment at the sheer beauty of Portugal.
There’s so much history, so much culture and oh so much surf, you simply have to make it your next surf trip
destination when all this COVID 19 bullsh*t subsides.
I often use introductory paragraphs such as this to set the scene for the story to unfold - to paint a picture and
describe a destination we have visited in all its glory. In this case however, all I could do is list some of the sights
we saw. I was lost for words, and I am never lost for words. I can crap on about almost anything, but I had
severe writer’s block approaching this story. The reason for my trepidation was that so much to say about the
country. I didn’t know where to start and I was ever mindful of leaving something out.
No matter where I go, or whatever corners of the globe I traverse, nothing diminishes my love for Australia. If
there was one place however, that I could consider living outside of Australia, it would be Portugal. No wonder
the locals cry, “Esta é a ditosa Pátria minha amada” (This is my blissful beloved homeland).
Esta é a ditosa Pátria
minha amada
59 / #50 / SB

Esta é a ditosa Pátria minha amada
Nazare in all her glory
Those fortunate enough to visit Europe are fully
aware there is so much history, so many historical
monuments, so much beautiful scenery, and equally
beautiful people, along with delicious food and
wine. The only problem is, in the main, it is frightfully
expensive.
When I visited Europe in my early twenties, I pretty
much kissed goodbye to ever returning unless I
became a millionaire. I just couldn’t envisage ever
going back with several kids in tow. I mean, mine
is a family of five – that’s two rooms wherever you
go. You do the maths - even in Australia it costs a
fortune to travel with our crew.
Well, all those thoughts went out the window in
October 2019 when my son Sam and good mate
Alec Franklin were invited over to one of the most
renowned football clubs in Portugal.
I mean what’s money anyhow? I was confident I
could get a good price for my kidney… maybe not
so much for my liver but my kidney was definitely
worth a dollar. Anyhow, where there is a will, there
is a way, and like or not my wife Katie and I were
coming up with the money. Anyhow I digress, back
to Portugal.
The boys were basically given a couple of weeks
notice to get their asses over to OS Belenenses
in Lisbon (what a football club!). It wasn’t until the
death knell I was informed I needed to chaperone
them.
With so much work on, I couldn’t conceive how I
could do it. Thanks to Mark (my mate and Horse &
Water / Smorgasboarder business partner) and the
team however, I was told I couldn’t pass up such an
opportunity and was promptly pushed out the door.
I am so grateful they did. You have to take the time,
and make sacrifices, to experience life, and looking
back, I was so very lucky to do so.
With such short notice, and the fact I wasn’t
initially going with Sam and Alec, I didn’t have
time to read up on Portugal. And that just added
to the adventure! Indeed, every time I HAVEN’T
researched a place, I have enjoyed it so much more.
I guess there is no expectation.
SB / #50 / 60

61 / #50 / SB

You owe it
to your eyes.
Barz Optics developed their initial surfing
sunglass / goggle in the mid 90’s — since then
they have developed a further six eyewear styles
for surfing.
Barz latest model the Kiama has a convertible
frame so it can be worn as normal sunglasses
without the back strap or when the strap is added
it’s ideal for surfing, jet skiing, ocean paddling,
SUP paddling and sailing.
The Kiama frame is fitted with a polarised amber
lens which heightens the wearers vision in both
bright and low light while offering the eyes
maximum protection.
Ideal for protecting the eyes from glare, salt and
spray while surfing and the protecting the eyes
from pterigium growth.
The Kiama can also be fitted with prescription
lenses for those who are optically challenged.
The frame is built in three parts to firstly create air
cells within the frame temples and nose piece —
this allows the glasses to float in both fresh and
salt water.
The nose piece and temple tips are non slip.
Each pair is supplied with a leash that keeps the
glasses close to the chest if the frame has been
ripped off the wearer head in the surf.
lay
of the land
Portugal is basically a big rectangle. The longest
north-south distance is 561 km and widest eastwest
distance 218 km.
To travel from one end of the country to the
other, north to south, takes around 6 hours. East
to west is just under two hours. So, traversing
the country by car is relatively easy. The longest
trip is the equivalent of driving from Caloundra
down to Crescent Head - easy peasy! On my
regular Smorgasboarder road trips down I
considered this stretch to be “just around the
corner from home”.
Do not let this fool you however. Driving on the
other side of the road (particularly in a manual),
at their speed limits, with so much scenery to
take in and so many places to stop, it is quite
exhausting. I thought I would cover any trip
within Portugal with ease but I struggled at
times. Maybe it’s because I am getting old but
driving for more than two-three hours over there
really hit me.
With that said, the major highways and roads in
Portugal are absolutely top notch. 20 years ago
the roads were reportedly some of the worst in
Europe but now, thanks to their inclusion in the
European Union, they are said to be among the
best on the continent.
But enough of the roads, what of the beaches
and the surf? Well, we will get into this in more
detail a little later on but let’s just say the amount
of waves, and the variety of waves is immense.
Portugal is divided into regions, each offering
unique features, scenery, history and cuisine.
From south to north they are: Algarve, Alentejo,
Lisbon and Lisbon Coast, Estremadura and
Ribatejo, the Beiras, Douro and Tras-os-Montes
and the Minho.
Portugal also includes two island groups: the
Azores (800 miles southwest of Lisbon) and
Madeira (600 miles south of Lisbon).
We were fortunate enough to explore five of
these regions this time around (note – we plan to
return!)
Available at good surf shops or at
www.barzoptics.com
11/4 Leda Drive Burleigh Heads Qld 4220.
Phone +61 755764365
SB / #50 / 62

where
is it exactly?
MINHO
SPAIN
TRAS-OS-MONTES
Portugal is located on the western end of the
Iberian Peninsula in southwestern Europe. Its
bordered to the west and south by the Atlantic
Ocean and to the north and east by Spain.
Its territories also include the volcanic island
archipelagos of the Azores and Madeira in the
Macaronesia region of the North Atlantic Ocean.
In total, the country occupies an area of 92,090
square kilometres - an area slightly larger than
Tasmania but smaller than the North Island of
New Zealand.
Interestingly, its border with Spain is still in
dispute to this day. Portugal does not recognise
the border between the Caia and Riberia de
Cuncos River deltas. This territory, including
the town of Olivenza, though under de facto
Spanish occupation, remains a de jure (legally
recognised) part of Portugal.
NAZARE
PENICHE
ERICEIRA
PORTO
ESTREMADURA
DOURO
PORTUGAL
BEIRAS
CASCAIS
RIBATEJO
SPAIN
PORTUGAL
LISBON
ALTO
ALENTEJO
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
BAIXO
ALENTEJO
EUROPE
ALGARVE
AFRICA
FARO
63 / #50 / SB

With so much history, where do you start?
Portugal is the oldest nation state on the Iberian
Peninsula and one of the oldest in Europe. Indeed,
the oldest human fossil is the skull of Homo
heidelbergensis discovered in the Cave of Aroeira in
Almonda in central Portugal.
Portugal’s territory has been continuously settled,
invaded and fought over since prehistoric times.
So, with so much ground to cover, consider the
following akin to a speed dating rundown of
Portuguese history.
During the first millennium BC, various waves of
Celts from central Europe invaded and interbred
with the various ethnic groups that inhabited
the area, such as the Lusitanians, Turduli,
Oestriminis and Cynetes. Phoenicians and
Carthaginians would later visit the area, along
with the Ancient Greeks and set up small trading
settlements on the southern coast of the Algarve.
In 219 BC, the Romans attacked the Iberian
Peninsula and for the next 200 years the region
was annexed to the Roman Empire. The Romans
were responsible for building many of the bridges,
temples, roads and public baths, which are still
visible to this day.
Following the fall of Rome at the start of the 5th
century, Germanic tribes such as the Suebi and
most notably the Visigoths came onto the scene.
Under the Visigoths a new class emerged, namely
a nobility, which played a tremendous social and
political role. As the Visigoths did not speak Latin,
the Catholic Bishops also held sway and it was up to
them to continue the Roman system of governance.
It was there and then the clergy started to emerge as
a high-ranking class.
In 711, the Visigoths were vanquished by the Islamic
Moors comprising of Berbers from North Africa and
Arabs from the Middle East. The Moors advanced
right through Iberia (present day Portugal and
Spain) and into France. The territory was renamed
Al-Andalus. The Moors reigned supreme with the
region under Islamic rule for the next 500 years.
Portugal as a country, was established during the
early Reconquista. The Reconquista in effect was
the taking back of these lands by the Christian
Visigoths from the Islamic Moors.
some
history
Vasco da Gama
The County of Portugal, containing present day
Porto, was founded in 868. It was established under
King Alfonso 111 of Asturias. This region however,
in turn, became part of the Kingdom of Leon. Then,
even though it was a vassal of the Kingdom of Leon,
Portugal grew in power and territory to such an extent
that they eventually broke away when a Burgundian
knight called Henry became count of Portugal and
defended its independence, merging the County of
Portugal with the County of Coimbra. Henry’s son
Afonso Henriques went on to be crowned the first
King of Portugal in 1139.
The Algarve, in Portugal’s south, was the last
remaining region still held by the Moors. It too was
taken back in 1249. Portugal’s land boundaries have
remained unchanged since. In 1255, Lisbon became
the nation’s capital.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, a period known as
the Middle Ages, Portugal established the first global
maritime and commercial empire. It became one of
the world’s major economic, political and military
powers.
Portugal ascended to the status of a world power
in this period coined ‘Europe’s Age of Discovery’
building up a vast empire by way of its seafaring
prowess (think of names like Ferdinand Magellan
and Vasco da Gama). The Portugese empire
comprised of lands in South America, Africa, Asia,
and the Oceania region. Indeed, Portugese is
still the official language of ten countries to this
very day: Brazil, Mozambique, Angola, Guinea-
Bissau, East Timor, Equatorial Guinea, Macau,
Cape Verde, Sao Tome and Principe.
Over the following two centuries Portugal lost
most of its wealth thanks to the Dutch, English
and French who took an increasing share of the
spice and slave trades. A massive earthquake in
1755, that destroyed most of Lisbon, along with
occupation during the Napoleonic Wars and the
loss of its largest colony Brazil, who proclaimed
independence in 1822, erased Portugal’s prior
opulence to a great extent.
Then a mass exodus from the mid 19th century
through to the 1950s saw nearly two million
Portuguese leave the country to take up residence in
Brazil and the United States.
In 1910, a revolution deposed the monarchy
followed by a military coup in 1926, installing a
dictatorship that remained in place until 1974. A new
government ensued which introduced sweeping
democratic reforms that also granted independence
to all of Portugal’s African colonies in 1975. In 1999,
Portugal’s handover of Macau to China marked the
end to one of the longest-lived colonial empires.
Today Portugal is a member of the United Nations
and the European Union. It is ranked amongst the
top 20 countries in the world for democracy, moral
freedom, peacefulness, stability and social progress.
The country has had a profound cultural, architectural
and linguistic influence across the world with over
250 million people speaking Portuguese.
SB / #50 / 64

Photography by Paul Smith
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what’s
good about the place
People
Let’s face it, scenery is important but if the people
who reside there are tossers, you soon grow pretty
tired of a place. I loved the people.
Portugal is beautiful, the people are beautiful and
most importantly, their demeanour is beautiful.
Outside of perhaps the Kiwis and Canadians, the
Portugese are not dissimilar to Aussies. They are
down to earth, easy going, easy to talk to and helpful
- nothing ever seemed too much trouble.
Proximity
Like I said in the Lay of the Land, everything is so
close and easy to get to. You can near explore the
whole country in a series of day trips, although to do
it justice I would recommend it best to base yourself
in the Algarve for a little while (south), Lisbon for a
little while (central) and then Porto (north).
Climate
Portugal’s climate is mainly Mediterranean. The
southern regions are dry and sunny with warm/hot
summers and mild/rainy winters. Traveling north, the
weather certainly becomes a little cooler, windier,
wilder and wetter, especially in winter. Think of
Nazare and you get the picture. Snow is possible in
the mountains of the northeast.
Overall, Portugal enjoys an enviable climate which
explains why it’s so popular with northern Europeans.
It reportedly has the highest amount of sunshine in
Europe.
Surf
There really are waves of all descriptions for surfers
of all abilities from nice little sliders through to the
vertically insane – the world’s biggest wave was
recorded at Nazare in Portugal’s North – 100ft!
SB / #50 / 66

Ponte 25 de Abril (Bridge), Lisbon
Porto
Joao, Carlos, Alec and Sam
pastel de nata
Food, wine and beer… of course!
With a coastline of 943 kms, it’s not surprising
seafood is front and center in Portuguese cuisine.
It’s said that there is a cod dish, dried and fresh,
for each day of the year.
Other than seafood expect beautiful freshly
baked bread, olives, cheese, red wine or crisp
vinho verde (young wine) and loads of smoked
meats. The ultimate however are their pastel de
nata (custard tarts) with the recipe to the delicacy
dating back some 300 years. And don’t think any
old custard tart – these things are friggin amazing!
I have always had a soft spot for a good tart!
As for the wine, Portugese varietals are now
considered some of the best quality and value in
the whole of Europe, if not the world. Grapes
of many varieties are grown throughout
Portugal. The wines from the Dao region are
among the finest reds. The white wines of the
region north of Porto feature the delightful
Vinho Verde I mentioned earlier - a light,
refreshing and slightly effervescent tipple.
And then there is of course their port, for
which they are famous and the town of Porto
is where this style of fortified wine originated.
In the 17th century British merchants added
brandy to wine to prevent it from souring in
transit. Port was born.
Imagine what
I could find
if I actually
knew what
I was doing
or where I
needed to
go.
And now for my favourite, beer! The two main
stream beers are close to 100 years old with
Super Bock and Sagres founded in 1927 and 1934
respectively. I liked them both, particularly in their
throw-down style mini bottles that fit into the palm
of your hand.
The craft beer scene has also been steadily
growing since around 2013. I encountered some
crackers at my local Pingo Doce supermarket (akin
to a Coles or Woolies). Imagine what I could find if
I actually knew what I was doing or where I needed
to go. I have since read that Mafra is the place
to go for craft beers, so I will be most certainly
visiting there next time.
Football
That’s what we were there for and the Portugese
youth development programs are some of the best
in the world with the discipline instilled exceptional.
OS Belenenses, where the boys trained for close to
two months, is the oldest club in Portugal founded
on the 23rd of September, 1919. The experience
was unforgettable.
Alec and Sam arrive at OS Belenenses
67 / #50 / SB

waves
Where do you start?
BOM!
I didn’t get a chance to fully research Portugal
before we left so I knew there was surf, I just didn’t
know there was the variety, quantity and quality that
there was. The area enjoys strong Atlantic swells
that zero in on right-hand point breaks along with
punchy, predominantly left-hand beach breaks. The
lack of continental shelf accentuates the power of
the waves. Water temps range from 15-18 degrees.
69 / #50 / SB

caravelos
A number of points in this stretch of craggy
coastline hold waves perfect for stand up
paddleboarders through to longboarders and
shortboarders. The main break is a righthander that
can hold a big swell on its day – up to 10ft.
Best conditions are the same as Caravelos
essentially with it being the same stretch of
coastline.
size
Up to 10ft
best waves
Sept-Nov
estoril
SB / #50 / 70

This was my home break just down the road from where we stayed at the Wanderlust Hostel. It
was around a 20 minute scenic drive along the coast from the Belenenses Football Club in Belem.
Carcavelos essentially is a fun little beach break that on its day can pack some punch, and I mean
PUNCH! It was great for boards of all descriptions – smaller days suited to a midlength, egg or
longboard, and on the punchy days my personal board of choice would be a mini-simmons – plenty
of float and paddle power to get on a wave with the shortness of the board allowing you to tuck in
when you need to.
Waves range in height 2-8ft. All tides. A straight southwest swell usually delivers the most favourable
conditions. Sept-Nov best waves.
Incidentally, there were a number of unnamed breaks between Carcavelos and Belem that in the right
conditions held cracking little right-hand peelers.
size
Range in height 2-8ft
best waves Sept-Nov
A number of points in this stretch of craggy
coastline hold waves perfect for stand up
paddleboarders through to longboarders
and shortboarders. The main break is a
righthander that can hold a big swell on its
day – up to 10ft.
Best conditions are the same as Caravelos
essentially with it being the same stretch of
coastline.
ascais
Considered the Portugese Riviera and just west of
the Portugese capital Lisbon, Cascais is known for
its sandy beaches, bustling shops and cafes and
busy marina. The marina and surrounding waters
have played host to numerous qualifying series for
the America’s Cup Yacht Race. Another interesting
fact is the Casino Estoril in Cascais inspired Ian
Fleming’s first James Bond novel Casino Royale.
Praia do Guincho, just around the corner from the
village of Cascais is a stunning kilometre long beach
that holds quality beachies and a nice right that
peels off the nearby cliffs. It is best in the mornings
before the wind gets into it. Mellow in summer it can
get damn right nasty in winter and holds some size.
size
Range in height 2-8ft
best waves
For Praia do Guincho Apr-Sept
(pictured)
71 / #50 / SB

ericeira
size
2-12ft
best waves
Dec-Feb
Ribeira d’Ilhas
Ericeira is a cool little surf town along the Atlantic
Coast. It’s home to Coxos and Ribeira d’Ilhas,
which are absolutely wicked right hand breaks with
the later resembling Bells Beach.
Coxos is considered the best wave in Portugal and
can hold quality up to 12ft, just be careful of the
sharp rock ledge it breaks onto full of those spikey
little sea urchins.
Ribeira is very consistent, much like Bells, and
has rideable surf under a range of swell and wind
conditions when the various other breaks in the
area aren’t on.
Waves range in height 2-12ft. A northwest her is
best during Dec-Feb.
There are so many cool surf shops in town most
notably 58 Surf who partnered with Billabong to
open its flagship store. It’s around 1,000 square
meters in total and used environmentally friendly
materials such as cork and wood in the build. It is
not only a massive retail space there is also a guest
shaping bay in the centre of the store, a Nixon
Custom Bar, where one can customise their watch,
there’s an awesome cafe inside as well as a micro
brewery Tails. Needless to say, I was in heaven.
SB / #50 / 72

73 / #50 / SB

peniche
size
Range in height 2-8ft
best waves
Dec-Feb
Is home to Supertubos, a powerful, hollow, predominantly left-hand barrel that is
considered one of the best beach breaks in Europe on its day. The further north
along the coast you go, the colder the water gets.
Waves range in height 2-8ft. Low to mid tide is best. A southwest swell delivers
the most favourable conditions. Dec-Feb best waves.
SB / #50 / 74

Gabriel Medina at Peniche
Surfs like Gabriel Medina, Dave, Alec and Sam
75 / #50 / SB

n a z
SB / #50 / 76

77 / #50 / SB
a r e

nazare
Vantage point - Fortress Sao Miguel Arcanjo
Oh my goodness, this place just scares the crap out
of me. Good to see but I have absolutey no intention
of surfing it though because I am not keen to die.
The dark, deep, cold water and the friggin’ insanely
massive walls of water fill my pants just looking at it.
Nazare and more specifically Praia do Norte (North
Beach), is home to the biggest surfable waves on
the planet. Indeed, the biggest wave ever ridden
was by Garrett McNamara here at Nazare on the
28th January, 2013. The wave measured 100ft from
trough to peak.
As to how Nazare delivers waves of such size, it
is thanks to a 230km long underwater canyon that
runs near all the way to the lighthouse the sits atop
the steep cliff overlooking the break. It essentially
acts like a funnel. The cold North Atlantic swell
surges along the canyon from a depth of up to
5000m and then instantly doubles the wave above
as it nears the coastline, displacing a phenomenal
body of water.
You can surf on the southern side of the Farol de
Nazaré (red lighthouse) at the Praia de Nazaré - a
long sandy beach that skirts the edge of the town. It
too scared the crap out of me when I saw it. I mean
how many nice little peaky beach breaks do you
know that can hold swell ranging from 3-20ft.
SB / #50 / 78

Farol da Nazare (red lighthouse)
sits 164ft above sea level.
160ft
120ft
80ft
40ft
Surf Museum
Veado Statue
size
Ridiculous.
Often 56ft (20m), up to 100ft (30m)
best waves
Dec - Feb
79 / #50 / SB

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FULL BOARD DECALS | COLOUR MATCHING | INKS
info@rhemagraphics
07 5534 1469
Unit 1 / 7 Wheeler Crescent
Currumbin QLD 4223
www.rhemagraphics.com
SB / #50 / 80

more
places to see
Other than surf spots, there’s a host of medieval villages
and the like to visit. The following are the best parts we have
soon so far (Note again – we plan to return).
Lisbon City
(Chiado, Baixa, Alfama)
The picturesque labyrinth of narrow streets, small
squares and ornate buildings in Alfama somehow
avoided the massive earthquake in 1755 and are
some of the oldest in Lisbon. Landmarks include
the medieval Castle of Sao Jorge, the royal
residence until the early 16th century, the Lisbon
Cathedral (12-14th centuries) and the baroque
Church of Santa Engrácia (17th century). Baixa on
the other hand features neoclassical architecture,
built after the 1755 earthquake, such as that
surrounding Commerce and Rossio squares.
Baixa is Lisbon’s commercial center and bustling
pedestrianized streets are lined with traditional
seafood restaurants and souvenir shops. And
Chiado too has many important cultural landsmarks
and is also renowned for its luxury shopping. All are
a must see.
81 / #50 / SB

Belem Tower
Sintra
Belem
Famed as a museum district and the
home of many of the most notable
monuments in Portugal such as the
Belém Tower, the Jerónimos Monastery,
the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, and
Belém Palace (official residence of the
President of Portugal). It also happens
to be where the boys played football at
Os Belenenses. The name of the club
translates in English to the “The ones
from Belém”.
Cristo Rei
Standing at 110m and overlooking the
city of Lisbon from a clifftop, it is hard
not to be impressed by this statue of
Christ which was inspired by the Christ
the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro,
in Brazil. Work commenced on the Cristo
Rei in December 1949 in reverence for
Portugal avoiding the horrors of World
War 2.
Sintra
What is it about medieval towns atop
mountain ranges shrouded in mist? The
historic center called the Vila de Sintra is
famous for its 19th-century Romanticist
architecture, historic estates, gardens,
royal palaces and castles. It’s landmarks
include the mediaeval Castelo dos
Mouros (Castle of the Moors), one of the
most awe inspiring castles I have ever
seen, and Pena Palace.
Cabo da Roca
Also known as Cape Roca, it forms the
westernmost point of the Sintra Mountain
Range, of mainland Portugal, and of
continental Europe. The cliff elevation is
140m at its maximum and you have to
love the guard rails which prescribe to
the d*ckhead rule, which I have come to
love. Basically it is a single post and rail
pine fence. You go under the rail to take
a selfie and the wind sweeps you off the
cliff, you’re a d*ckhead. Your safety is
your own responsibility and your stupidity
is your own too.
Porto
The capital of the north, the home of
port fortified wine and a city that in
winter resembles a set from Pirates of
the Carribean. I absolutely loved this
place. Narrow cobbled streets in the
medieval Ribeira (riverside) district wind
past merchants’ houses and cafes. It is
one of the oldest European centres and
was proclaimed a World Heritage Site
by UNESCO in 1996. The Ponte de Dom
Luis I is the most famous of the several
bridges that span the Duoro River in
the centre of town. Built in 1886, it was
designed by Téophile Seyrig, an engineer
who worked with Gustave Eiffel.
Benfica Stadium
The Estádio da Luz in the heart of Lisbon
is the home of premier Portuguese
football club S.L. Benfica. It has a
capacity of just over 64,000 and you
simply have to witness a game here when
in Portugal.
SB / #50 / 82

Moorish Castle, Sintra
Porto
Cabo da Roca
Porto
Jeronimos Monastery, Belem
83 / #50 / SB

where’s
good to stay
There are three places I can definitely recommend. They are where we stayed, each
with different budgets and travelling party sizes in mind.
Wanderlust House/
Hostel Carcavelos
It’s appeal can be summed up in four short
words is, ‘It felt like home’. Indeed, it was Sam,
Alec and my home for the first six weeks of our
stay in Portugal. Huge fully equipped kitchen,
dining room, living room, outdoor terrace,
plenty of parking, 5 minutes drive down to the
beach, comfortable bedrooms, shared bathroom
(although some apartments come with their own)
and at less than $50 a night it was incredible
value. Best of all the owner David Costa, was
as accommodating as one could be. Always so
welcoming, helpful and up for a chat or to share
some useful information about where to go and
how to find our way around the area. I could not
recommend this property more highly.
Main appeal? Its comfortable, affordable
and grocery stores, laundromats, cafes and
restaurants are all within walking distance. It was
a fantastic base for an extended stay in Portugal.
Lisbon Serviced
Apartments Baixa
Chiado
These contemporary, fully furnished apartments
with up-to-date self-catering facilities are smack
bang in the centre of the city. Baixa is considered
the central, downtown area of Lisbon. The district
is situated between the two hills of the Alfama
and Chiado districts.
We had a three-bedroom unit, each room with
its own ensuite, along with a full size kitchen,
refrigerator, dishwasher, washing machine etc.
How on earth we could afford such a place was
thanks to whatever magic Craig at Helloworld
Kawana weaved.
The apartments main appeal was its proximity.
Everything was within walking distance, which
was a bonus because car parking spaces were
at a premium. The apartment was also just so
friggin’ amazing.
SB / #50 / 84

CUSTOM SHAPED BEER
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Apartmentos Ponte
Nova, Porto
A short stroll from the heart of the Unesco World
Heritage-Listed Ribeira district and Rua das Flores,
these apartments are modern and comfortable with
a fully equipped kitchen. The apartment comfortably
accommodated all 5 of us with 2 bedrooms and a
large double bed sofa in the living room.
The apartments’ main appeal is its modern
furnishings, cleanliness and proximity to Porto’s
main attractions. Everything is within walking
distance. We paid around $200 per night, which was
incredible.
85 / #50 / SB

gear
50
Neil oke
Mitchell Rae
50 editions of Smorgasboarder
is not a bad achievement. to
shape surfboards for over 50
years however, that’s another
level altogether. So, in this
milestone edition of our mag,
we thought it fitting to shine
a light on four guys who have
been an integral part of our
mag through the last 10 years.
All have clocked up 50 years
on the planer, each with a
slightly different approach to
their profession.
Jack Knight today plies his trade on the Gold
Coast first learnt his craft watching the likes of Neil
Purchase, Peter Cornish and Bob McTavish whilst
working for famous Northern Beaches surf brands
such as Keyo, Shane and Bennett Surfboards. It was
an era of experimental designs but namely single fins
and it would appear his shaping journey has now
come full circle.
Jack still crafts a mean performance shortboard
under his label Jack Knight Surfboards, skills he
honed shaping boards for 10 years under the feet
of pro surfer Glen Winton, but it is the Harvest
label he formed with son Aaron that is increasingly
taking centre stage. Harvest’s focus is on beautifully
handcrafted, bespoke, vintage-inspired boards.
Single fins, twin fins, mid-lengths and logs are the
order of the day and are tailored to suit a more
graceful style of surfing with long drawn out carves.
Harvest’s hallmark shape without doubt however is
a channel bottom single fin that Jack learnt to craft
in the 1970s from Jim Pollard, the board’s original
inventor. Said Jack of the design, “The channelled
bottom acts as an accelerator to give you speed and
lift and acts like a hydrofoil to pull you through turns.
It is a design that must be handshaped and can’t be
replicated by a machine.”
With everything handmade, Jack’s focus is on
quality over quantity. He is a perfectionist at heart.
Mitchell Rae of Outer Island Surfboards also hails
from Sydney’s Northern Beaches, and like Jack,
is firmly fixated on quality over quantity too. He is
an artisan of the highest order creating boards that
literally come alive like a living object by virtue of
controlled flex. Mitchell explains his pursuit.
“Living creatures change their shape and body
position to perform different tasks. Fish can change
SB / #50 / 86

cu
gear
l b
Mark Rabbidge
Jack Knight
the shape of their fins in motion, altering aspect and
shape while hunting prey, extending fins to change
direction at high speed, flattening them down to
reduce drag. Sea birds will extend their wings to
soar, tuck them in to dive, extend them to perform
a high-speed turn. I considered why a surfboard
shouldn’t do the same? To me flex is the simplest
way to give an inanimate object life.”
Mitchell explains most surfboards have an amount of
flex but it’s just not necessarily in the right place.
“I’m looking to control the flex, put it where it
belongs. A standard surfboard is based on a set
of curves that remain constant, such as rocker,
concave and vee. You can only surf what is possible
with that fixed set of curves. That is the limitation of
that design.
“To me there are two distinct aspects I felt were
integral to flex design: Variable curve and Reflex,
or ‘spring back’. My boards are flexible forms that
change shape whilst in motion, melding to the shape
of the wave then releasing generating propulsion and
drive. The acceleration generated is addictive.”
Flextails, triple stringers, chambered balsa boards -
the craft Mitchell creates are true works of art.
Good friend Mark Rabbidge is another who hails
from the Northern Beaches and is no stranger to
the world of high-performance surfboards either.
Through the years Mark has shaped boards for
the likes Tom Curren and former world champ
Pam Burridge, now his wife. His approach today
is on crafting boards that are fun, that deliver that
euphoric feeling of truly riding a wave.
“I have been riding waves for over 60 years. I have
spent about two years riding surfboards and the rest
of the time riding waves.
“Surfing to me is about feelings. It’s about that
moment when you pull off the wave and go, ‘F*#k
that felt unreal. That is what surfing is all about to
me. So I create boards that emulate that feeling. And
given that conditions vary from day to day, break
to break, and ability from surfer to surfer, I craft
boards to suit, and that means everything from 12ft
gliders to shortboards, finless, asymmetricals and
everything in between.
“Many surfers who come to me say, ‘I want to feel
a certain glide or I want to feel a rush.’ They want to
feel something. And that’s what I strive to deliver.”
Again, his board shaping skills are next level. He’s a
freak and we love him.
For Neil Oke of Oke Surfboards down in the southeastern
Melbourne suburb of Braeside, the board
building game has always been about family. Neil
joined his brother Alan in his surfboard business at
age 16. Not too many years later Neil lost his brother
through the most tragic of circumstances. Despite
the grief he soldiered on with the business. Through
the course of time Neil’s sons have stepped into
the business and have more or less taken over the
reigns - Dan a deft glasser and Rory as head shaper.
Neil or “Chok” as he is affectionately known takes
more of a back seat. Says Rory (laughing), “Yeah, he
just basically gets in the way nowadays.”
That’s the Oke family for you. Constantly taking the
piss out of one another, laughing, having fun and
spreading the stoke for all and sundry who come into
the factory. It’s why so many of their loyal customers
consider themselves extended family.
Despite the wry humour you can tell Neil is as proud
as punch of his sons.
“The boys get on really well and I am so proud of
what they’re doing and how they are carrying the
business forward. Rory has developed all these new
shapes and Dan’s resin work is amazing.
“As for the boards we make, well, we really do make
everything. People rely on our expertise and we’re
happy to be charged with that responsibility. We love
them and want them to have a nice board.”
As for us here at Smorgasboarder, we certainly love
these four guys more than words. We can’t thank
them enough for all their support of our humble little
surf mag through the years.
87 / #50 / SB

gear
5’7” FISHY FISH 2.0
5’7” x 20 1/2” x 2 5/8”
Many years riding and shaping fishes to
reach this model – one versatile enough
to surf beaches as well as pointbreaks.
More curve in the tail outline plus increased
nose rocker incorporated with venturi
style channels and a single to double
concave make this board do just that and
more. 100% hand crafted and glassed
in flax + basalt with bio epoxy resins. 7
years experience using these materials
has resulted in the creation of my own
techniques resulting in an extremely light
and durable board that’s eco-friendly and
registered with Sustainable Surf Project Eco
Board. Custom and stock boards available.
ROCKET ACE ECO-SURFBOARDS
“The Happy Planet Surf Project”
4/1 United Road, Ashmore, QLD
E: rocketaceecosurfboards@gmail.com
M: 0415 727 670
Blue resin tint board
7’2” x 22” x 3”
single fin plus 2 side fins
Rasta board
8’2” x 23” x 3 1/4”
thruster fins
QUARRY BEACH
SURFBOARDS
75 David Street, Caversham,
Dunedin, NZ
P: +64 3 455 7414
M: +64 27 518 8678
E: grahamcarse@xtra.co.nz
W: www.qbsurfboards.com
6’6” x 20 1/2” x 2 5/8”
1970’s curved channel bottom
inspired by Jim Pollard designed
to generate more speed without
tracking.
Classic Single Fin feel jazzed up
with some more functional presentday
elements.
All boards are completely handshaped
and customised to suit
surfer ability and wave condition.
5’10” x 20 7/8” x 2 3/4”
36.3lts
Retro twin. Heavy vee bottom with full
rail edges, flyer n flutes
She goes like a rocket!
HARVEST SURFBOARDS
2/24 Christine Ave, Miami, QLD
P: (07) 5576 5914
E: hello@harvestsurfboards.com
M: harvestsurfboards.com
THE DING KING /
CLARK SURFBOARDS
Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road,
Hackham, SA
E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au
M: 0422 443 789
SB / #50 / 88

2021surf is free
#50
th
edition
#50
Wear it proud!
Celebrate with us and show your support for the longest
running little free surf mag in Australia and New Zealand.
Order your merchandise online at
www.smorgasboarder.com.au/shop
SB / #50 / 90

gear
1. LUXE
A high performance twin fin with a
flat deck... don’t be misled... these
things are your new go to board
and tweaked to suit your individual
needs.
2. GOGO FISH
Once again... flat decked, high
performance with all the go fast
gear on board... turns the slop into
a fun park or the good stuff up a
notch.
The Ultimate
10’ x 24” x 3 3/8
Ten foot of performance heaven.
10’ x 24” x 3 3/8 built for tail surfing and
endless noserides.
Triple cedar with turquoise cutlaps
Blank by Burford.
Custom made surfboards Australia wide.
NMC SURFBOARDS
98-80 Sheepwash Rd,
Barwon Heads, VIC
M: 0438 800 539
E: nmcsurf@bigpond.com
3. SCHNAVALER
My take on what you need to be a
dynamo and compete against the
rip or crowd. When you need that
mid length to get in early but still
want to surf tight in the pocket.
The new pest in the line up that’ll
get your stoke on... but don’t be
greedy... caring is sharing.
CHRIS GARRETT SHAPES
/ PHANTOM SURFBOARDS
M: 0424 450 690
E: phantomsurfboards@gmail.com
W: chrisgarrettshapes.com.au
...custom is where it’s at and personal service is what I
do best... I’ve plenty of skill to take you where you want
to go... and beyond... you’ll give up your day job in no
time... keep smiling and stay stoked.
91 / #50 / SB

gear
Open for fun, frivolity and a fair
bit of boardmaking. The Surfer’s
Shed is where Darren ‘Dicko’
Dickson plies his trade. Tow
boards, longboards, shortboards,
old school, new school... You name
it, we do it, along with some of the
sweetest resin work and sprays
you’ve seen.
PINTAIL
9’8” x 22 1/2”x 2 3/4”
56 lts
Built with styrofoam and epoxy
resin.
Light? It’s only 5.6 kg.
Everybody is getting really heavy
boards nowadays.
I’m in to travelling light!
DARREN DICKSON
SURFBOARDS
Shed 4, 10 Baines Cr, Torquay, VIC
M: 0437 246 848
E: dickosurf@gmail.com
SHEELY CUSTOM MADE
SURFBOARDS
M: 0417 264 739
DARKSIDE TWIN
6’2” x 21 1/2” x 2 3’4”
42 lts
The darkside twin is designed for
local conditions with speed and
paddle power combined. Features
are a flat rocker slight single to
double concave to vee with the
channels for a bit more grip and
hold. Ride 3 to 4 inches smaller than
your short board and add 15 %
more volume.
Super sweet strong custom
surfboards for you.
#sunset
#tequilasunrise
#custommade
#faded
#surfboard
MR DAMAGE SURFBOARDS
Shed 2, 44 Hill Street, Port Elliot, SA
MARK BENSON SHAPES
M: 0416 199 764
E: nxtsurf@hotmail.com
DIVERSE SURFBOARDS
AUSTRALIA +61 419 246595
BALI +62 812 37368771
E: dave.verrall@gmail.com
W: www.diversesurf.com.au

WORLD CLASS AUSTRALIAN MADE
SURFBOARDS AT AFFORDABLE PRICES
surfer_ Matt Mcleod
pic by_ M Lester
shaper_ D Burge
Custom Shortboards
Hybrid & Fishes
Mals and Logs
Factory 3/6 Kerta Rd, Kincumber NSW 2251
M: 0415 577 085

F
L
A
T
H
E
A
D
the
the
Well it just could well be, in my humble
opinion, the most revolutionary
surfboard design to have ever graced the
earth. This is a craft that paddles like a
longboard, turns like a shortboard and
doubles as a bulldozer. Its snub nose is
able to clear any pesky bodyboarders or
drop-ins with ease. Behold the mighty
Flathead.
Lovingly crafted from paulownia timber by the artisan hands of
yours truly, it’s been many years in the making. Admittedly those
‘many years’ have not necessarily been devoted to research and
development, more so procrastination and consternation. My cause
for concern was how I could improve something so perfect in the
first place. I admit making it waterproof was a start and somewhat
essential but there was no point being caught up with specifics.
It all started back in 2015. I attended a wooden surfboard
workshop held by the good folks at Tree to Sea down in Mt Eliza,
Victoria. I said it then and I will say it again, it was one of the most
special experiences I have ever undertaken. To make something
from your own hands is such an unbelievably gratifying experience,
let alone when you discover the innate board building skills that I
quite clearly possess.
Back then Rob, Gary and Darren taught you how to make
boards by way of a hollow wooden construction similar to boat
building techniques (nowadays their focus is still on building an
environmentally friendly surfboard, it is just a little more high tech
and involves vacuum bagging a paulownia timber skin to a recycled
EPS foam blank). I enlisted in a three-day course and undertook it
with seven other wooden surfboard enthusiasts. The friendly banter
we shared and the comradery is something that will forever be
etched in my memory.
After the course is complete you essentially have a surfboard that
is 95% complete. All you have to do when on your return home is
apply a few coats of marine varnish, sand between each coat, stick
in your Gore-Tex air vent and slot in your fin. Voila, she is ready to
surf.
SB / #50 / 94

95 / #50 / SB

That’s where it went pear-shaped for me. Enter three kids, lots of
work and good old life in general. I did manage to carve a mighty
Flathead onto its belly and applied a white limestone paint wash
when I returned from the workshop but that was it. The board
then sat in my storage racks for the next 5 years until Covid rolled
around.
I pulled it out on the first weekend of lockdown, looked it over
and stood distraught. I thought she was destroyed. The Flathead
was covered in mould and the limestone wash had hardened to
resemble cement.
I took to it with 80 grit sandpaper for next to no result. I committed
to hitting it a few more times before expectantly facing the
reality the Flathead would need to be filleted and tossed. Then it
happened. It was like brushing away dirt from a golden nugget.
The Flathead was indeed a gem. For the next 7 days I slaved away
sanding with 40 grit, 80 grit, 120 grit, 240 grit. I was restoring my
‘precious’ to its former glory.
The true magic didn’t happen however until I took to her with
some marine grade varnish. It was then the white limestone wash
seemed to react with the varnish creating a shimmering gold finish.
A smirk appeared on my face. My Flathead was adorned with
golden scales. I pondered unto myself if this board could become
any more impressive? Sh*t I hope it floats.
I applied another four coats of varnish sanding with 240 grit in
between each one. I then screwed in the Gore-Tex vent plug that
allows the board to breathe and adjust to changes in temperature
– necessary in boards like this – otherwise they can inflate (and
split) like one of those blowfish you find on the beach. I inserted
a pineapple in The Flathead’s bum – my fin was adorned with a
pineapple design. Unbelievably, The Flathead was finally complete.
It was then the moment of truth – the time had come to immerse
The Flathead. The conditions weren’t ideal and there was some
trepidation entering the water. Ohh crap I hope it floats. Bugger off
my other inner voice replied.
It was then the moment of
truth – the time had come to
immerse The Flathead. The
conditions weren’t ideal and
there was some trepidation
entering the water. Ohh crap
I hope it floats. Bugger off my
other inner voice replied.
SB / #50 / 96

97 / #50 / SB
The Flathead paddled ok, but she was less buoyant than a normal
board. It was way easier to duck dive however. When I turned for
my first wave though, and felt the momentum of the board as it
picked up the energy of the wave, it was a euphoric sensation. The
delight of surfing your own creation is something else.
Moving at what I could only imagine was near light speed caused
me some concern however. How on earth could I turn it given
the speed I was travelling and its weight? It was here the Swan
Flathead design came to the fore. The round tail and snub nose
enabled me to whip it around like a chameleon swatting a fly with
its tongue. Alas, The Flathead was a cracker. It did take a little
more paddle power to get onto the wave but once on, the boards
momentum carried it as far as any of the 10-footers in my quiver.
I must have resembled a ninja warrior on each wave, flicking my
samurai sword here and there, slashing at will.
The best part of it all however was the fact the board didn’t sink.
Once again I had created something that floats.