GlobeRovers Magazine, July 2021

VOL. 9 · NO. 1, July 2021
Journal of GlobeRovers Productions · GR
GlobeRovers
Feature Article
10 Islands of Thailand — The Unexplored Beaches
Finding gorgeous beaches on Thailand’s many islands is easy. But finding the most idyllic, tranquil, and unspoiled
beaches where you can wander alone and swim in crystal clear turquoise waters is becoming more challenging.
We searched many of Thailand’s islands to find beaches to satisfy even the most discerning intrepid beach lovers.
These beaches have their good and bad times—so visit during the right season and at the right time of the day,
and you will be in paradise!
ARTICLES + PHOTO ESSAYS
OTHER SECTIONS
56
68
Ecuadorʼs Capital, Quito
Quito, the capital of Ecuador in northwestern
South America, lies at a high
altitude in a narrow valley of the Andean
Highlands. The city is the second
highest capital in the world and the
capital closest to the equator. The region
is worthy of a stay of several days.
Journey Through Chinaʼs Sichuan
China’s Sichuan Province is famous for
its lantern-lit streets, temples, gardens,
teahouses, spicy food and adorable
giant pandas. South of the capital,
Chengdu, are Mount Emei with temples
high on its summit, and Leshan Giant
Buddha, carved into a cliff by the river.
104
124
142
87
152
156
162
166
SHORT CONTRIBUTIONS
Meet the Photographer
Maltaʼs Islands of Surprises
A Greek Island Odyssey
REGULAR FEATURES
Sensible Travel Gear
Tasty Travellerʼs Treats
Postcards to Mommy
Traveller in the Spotlight
Book Reviews
88
132
Kangaroo Island, South Australia
We discover why Australia’s 3rd-largest
island is an amazing destination for
travellers who love spectacular beaches,
coastal scenery, wildlife, great food
and a unique island vibe. Its stunning
natural attractions make it one of South
Australia’s best kept secrets.
Climbing Nicaraguaʼs Active Volcano
Ometepe Island on Lake Nicaragua has
two almost-symmetrical volcanoes. The
highest, Volcán Concepción, is an active
stratovolcano while its neighbour, Volcán
Maderas, is dormant. Come along
as we climb to the hostile summit of
Concepción. A day to never forget!
Footprints are scarce on these beaches.
Golden Buddha Beach, Koh Phra Thong.
52
100
154
173
TOP LISTS
10 Best Beaches on Thailandʼs Islands
10 Photo Spots on Kangaroo Island
9 Incredible Untamed Island Escapes
IN THE NEXT ISSUE
Icelandʼs Ring Road
Iceland is a place that impresses every
visitor beyond expectation. Even the
most seasoned travellers promise themselves
to return and discover more. It
would be impossible to experience all of
Iceland in one lifetime! Join us on our
journey around the island via Route 1,
popularly known as the Ring Road.
1

2 Globerovers · July 2021
6/Jul/21-v1

Editor‛s Message
“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien
John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 — 2 Sep 1973), was an English writer, poet, philologist,
university professor and author of The Hobbit, and Lord of the Rings trilogy.
THE FRONT COVER:
Sunrise at Koh Mook, Thailand
Photographer: Peter Steyn
GlobeRovers Magazine
is currently a biannual magazine, available
in digital and printed formats.
We focus on bringing exciting destinations
and inspiring photography from around
the globe to the intrepid traveller.
Published in Hong Kong
Printed in U.S.A. and Europe
WHO WE ARE:
Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn
Editorial Director - Marion Halliday
Editorial Assistant - Tsui Chi Ho
Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn
Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn
Advertising - Lizzy Chitlom
Social Media - Leon Ringwell
FOLLOW US:
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CONTACT US:
editor@globerovers.com
Dear Readers,
In this 17th issue of GlobeRovers Magazine, we are pleased to present a variety of
exciting destinations for your reading pleasure.
The feature destination is Thailand’s world-renowned islands. We have visited most of
the islands with accommodation and selected the very best beaches. Once Covid-19 is
under control, you can discover these islands and beaches for yourself.
We also journey through China’s Sichuan Province and explore the city of Chengdu
with its spicy cuisine, and spend time with the giant pandas. Then we head south to
hike Mount Emei and take a boat to Leshan to see the world’s largest stone Buddha
carved into a rock face next to rivers that merge into the mighty Yangtze.
From China, we travel halfway around the world to Ometepe Island in Lake Nicaragua
to climb the smouldering Concepción Volcano, and barely live to tell the tale!
Next we go to Kangaroo Island in South Australia to see nature regenerate after the
recent devastating bushfires. Also in this issue we visit Madagascar and Malta, then
join a private cruise around some of the Greek islands.
The photo essay in this issue showcases Quito, the capital of Ecuador.
A special thank you to our sponsors and to our wonderful
contributors who we feature on page 5.
Visit our website and social media. For easy access, scan
the QR codes on page 7.
Feedback to editor@globerovers.com.
We travel so you can see the world!
Peter Steyn PhD
Editor-in-Chief and Publisher
Copyright © 2013-2021. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any part of this magazine
is strictly prohibited without the prior written approval of the publisher. The publisher
does not take responsibility for any potentially inaccurate information herein.
THE FRONT COVER
Sunrise at Koh Mook, Thailand
3

globerovers
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4 Globerovers · July 2021

Thanks to our Contributors
In this issue
CONTRIBUTORS
A very special thank you to our awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, GlobeRovers Magazine just wouldn’t be
the same!
Peter Steyn, Hong Kong (pages 10, 56, and 132)
Peter is an avid explorer who always tries to travel off the map to unexplored destinations. He
has photographed over 122 countries and is totally in love with Japan, Russia, Iceland, Central
Asia, South Africa, and other exciting places. He is the Editor-in-Chief of GlobeRovers Magazine.
Keith Lyons, Auckland, New Zealand (page 68)
Keith is an award-winning writer based in Asia, writing about people and places, specializing in
eco-tourism and off-the-beaten-track soft adventure. He was named one of 10 travel journalists
in “Rock Star Travel Writers”. Keith (keithlyons.net) blogs at wanderingintheworld.com.
Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 88)
Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased
attractions and activities—and scenic loos—all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and
published book Aussie Loos with Views provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.
David Van Driessche, Bangkok, Thailand (page 104)
David—also known as David Dennis—is a professional photographer specializing in travel, with
passionate eye-catching photographs of places and people. Combining his profession with a love
of travel and a background in tourism and hospitality, he offers photography services and tours.
Steven Kennedy, Kent, United Kingdom (page 124)
Steve is a PR professional and founder of the World Complete travel blog that documents his
attempts to visit every corner of the globe... eventually. Through his accounts he hopes to pass
on a few helpful hints and tips for other travellers along the way.
Gaverides, Syros, Greece (page 142)
Gaverides is an Australian now living in Greece. Over the past 20 years he has travelled extensively
throughout Greece, and enjoys writing about his adventures, especially the journeys that
take him there.
Ric Gazarian, Chicago, USA (page 162)
Ric is an avid traveller, travel blogger, professional photographer, drone pilot, author, podcaster,
documentary producer and industry speaker. He is on a quest to visit every country in the
world, has visited all seven continents and has travelled to over 140 countries.
Linda Ballou, Topanga Canyon, California, USA (page 166)
Linda is the adventure travel expert for the National Association of Baby Boomer Women. You will
find a host of travel articles on her site LostAngelAdventures.com. For more about her novels and
her media offerings go to LindaBallouAuthor.com. All of her books are listed on her Amazon Profi le.
Ben Goode, Adelaide, South Australia (page 168)
Award-winning professional photographer Benjamin Goode’s fine art images showcasing the beauty
of nature have appeared in many publications worldwide. He has produced two books highlighting
the natural attractions in his home state of South Australia where he lives with his wife and two sons.
5

The GlobeRovers‛ World
GlobeRovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the
edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.
It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers.
He has visited over 122 countries and is poised to explore East Africa and Mongolia in the near future.
Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.
Afghanistan
Albania
Andorra
Argentina
Armenia
Australia
Austria
Azerbaijan
Bahrain
Bangladesh
Belarus
Belgium
Belize
Bolivia
Bosnia-Herzegovina
Brazil
Brunei
Bulgaria
Cambodia
Canada
Chile
China
Colombia
Costa Rica
Croatia
Cuba
Cyprus
Czech Rep.
Denmark
Ecuador
Egypt
El Salvador
Estonia
Finland
France
Georgia
Germany
Greece
Greenland
Guatemala
Honduras
Hong Kong
Hungary
Iceland
India
Indonesia
Iran
Ireland
Israel
Italy
Japan
Jordan
Kazakhstan
Kosovo
Kyrgyzstan
Laos
Latvia
Lebanon
Lesotho
Liechtenstein
Lithuania
Luxembourg
Macau
Macedonia
Malaysia
Maldives
Malta
Mauritius
Mexico
Moldova
Monaco
Montenegro
Morocco
Myanmar / Burma
Namibia
Nepal
Netherlands
New Zealand
Nicaragua
North Korea
Norway
Oman
Pakistan
Panama
Papua New Guinea
Paraguay
Peru
Philippines
Poland
Portugal
Romania
Russia
San Marino
Serbia
Singapore
Slovakia
Slovenia
South Africa
South Korea
Spain
Sri Lanka
Swaziland
Sweden
Switzerland
Syria
Taiwan
Tajikistan
Thailand
Timor Leste (East Timor)
Turkey
Ukraine
United Arab Emirates
United Kingdom
United States
Uruguay
Uzbekistan
Vanuatu
Vatican
Vietnam
Yemen
Zambia
Zimbabwe
122 and counting...
6 Globerovers · July 2021

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DESTINATIONS
IN THIS ISSUE
MALTA
Page 124
NICARAGUA
Page 132
Use a QR Reader App on your phone (older
models) or just your camera (newer models)
to read these codes
ECUADOR
Page 56
8 Globerovers · July 2021

GREECE
Page 142
CHINA
Page 68
MADAGASCAR
Page 104
THAILAND
Page 10
AUSTRALIA
Page 88
9

Feature Article
Thailand
AO SI BEACH, KOH JUM, THAILAND.
Ao Si Beach is located on the central east coast of Koh Jum near the
village of Ting Rai and Jungle Hill Beach Resort. It is an ideal place
from which to watch a spectacular sunset with a beer in hand.
10 Globerovers · July 2021

Islands of Thailand
Unexplored Beaches for Intrepid Travellers
With mass tourism on the rise, it is getting difficult to find an undeveloped beach on Thailand’s
islands. However, some unspoiled beaches still remain for those who are willing to
seek out that special piece of paradise!
Words and Photography by Peter Steyn
Thailand is world-renowned for its
beautiful islands. The country’s
year-round pleasant weather,
temperate oceans, palm-fringed
islands, and white sand beaches
with crystal clear turquoise waters make it a
dream vacation spot for many people around the
world.
Combine these idyllic features with Thailand’s
delicious food, rich history, colourful traditions,
affordable costs, top-notch accommodation,
and friendly, beautiful
people, and you have
the ultimate holiday
destination.
During Pre-Covid
2019, Thailand welcomed
almost 40 million international arrivals.
Domestic tourism is even more significant as the
country is a much-beloved travel destination for
its 69 million residents.
The vast majority of Thailand’s 1,430 islands
are uninhabited and some are merely a few rocks
and trees. While it is technically possible to pitch
a tent on any island, except for those strictly
off-limits due to Thailand’s military presence, less
than 50 islands have established accommodation.
This varies from camping and basic bungalows to
super-luxurious resorts fit for kings and queens.
While most of Thailand’s islands with accommodation
are government-owned and open to
Every island has its own charm and the intrepid
traveller will be rewarded with a paradise beach
where few have ventured.
free enterprise, some islands are fully or partially
protected, and managed by the Department of
National Parks, which may provide basic bungalows
and campsites. A few islands are privately
owned and offer accommodation, while a small
number are outposts for the Royal Thai Armed
Forces, some of which allow limited day visits but
no overnight stays.
For most of us travellers, the convenience of
booking accommodation online is an important
driver for where we will spend our next holiday.
Even with a choice of
fewer than 50 islands,
however, choosing the
best place for a special
holiday is a daunting
task. No wonder that
the vast majority of visitors to Thailand’s islands,
particularly first-timers, book at the most wellknown
islands such as Phuket, Samui and Phi Phi.
Even when less popular islands are chosen,
many head to the developed beaches. Experienced
travellers know that the best places are the
least visited, so avoiding the tourist hot-spots is
the secret to having paradise all to yourself.
Here we uncover some of the lesser-known
beaches of Thailand’s islands where it is possible
to get away from the masses and enjoy unspoiled
nature.
We focus on islands with accommodation for
easy access to the beach.
Feature Article | 11

Islands of Thailand
THAILAND’S ISLAND REGIONS
Thailand’s islands are located in the Andaman Sea to the west and in the Gulf of Thailand to the east.
The islands can be grouped into seven regions based on their proximity to each other:
Region 1: Southern Andaman
(Koh Lipe area)
Region 2: Lower Central Andaman
(Koh Mook area)
Bangkok
Pattaya
Cambodia
Region 3: Upper Central Andaman
(Koh Lanta area)
Region 4: Northern Andaman
(Koh Phayam area)
Myanmar
Region 7
Region 6
Trat
Region 5: Central Gulf of Thailand
(Koh Samui area)
Region 6: Eastern Gulf of Thailand
(Koh Chang area)
Region 7: Northern Gulf of Thailand
(Koh Samet area)
NOTES WHEN READING
1. In the Thai language, “koh” means “island”,
so the correct way to refer to the
island of Phuket, for example, is “Koh
Phuket” rather than “Koh Phuket Island”.
“Ao” means “beach”, so “Ao Nang”
means “Nang Beach”. “Mu koh” means
“archipelago”, so “Mu Koh Ang Thong”
means “Ang Thong Archipelago” .
2. Some of Thailand’s islands have the
same or similar names. Some examples
include Koh Chang in the Gulf of
Thailand, and Koh Chang Noi along
the northern Andaman Coast; and Koh
Ngam Yai and Koh Ngam Noi near the
town of Chumphon, which is far from
Koh Ngam at the southeastern tip of
Koh Chang near Cambodia.
3. Covid-19 is decimating the tourist infrastructure
on Thailand’s islands. Most
tourist services, including accommodation
and transport services, available
Region 5
Rayong
Region 4
Surat Thani
Phuket
Region 3
Krabi
Hat Yai
Region 2
Region 1
Malaysia
pre-Covid are not currently accessible, 6. This article focuses on the best beaches
on islands with accommodation,
and may not be restored for a while.
4. While some islands can be reached by though islands managed by the National
public ferries, speedboats and long-tail Parks offering tents for rent are also
boats, some are only accessible by
included. We also include noteworthy
private boat rental.
islands and beaches of interest with no
accommodation.
5. Much effort has been made to provide
information that is as accurate as possible,
but please do your own extensive hensive guide to all islands of Thailand.
7. This article is not intended as a compre-
research to get the latest information.
12 Globerovers · July 2021

REGION 1
Southern Andaman Coast
1. SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST
Unspoiled beaches with great camping, and
snorkelling among flourishing coral reefs.
The Southern Andaman Coast offers
some of the best unspoiled islands, beaches,
jungle and marine life in Thailand.
Most visitors stay at Koh Lipe which has
ample tourist facilities, though generally at
premium prices. From here, day trips can
be made to the nearby islands.
LOCATION & GATEWAY
The Andaman Sea along the southwest
coast of Thailand’s Satun Province is
dominated by the Mu Ko Tarutao National
Marine Park. Covering an area of 1,490
square kilometres (575 mi²) immediately
to the north of the border with Malaysia,
the park is unquestionably one of the gems
of Asia!
Three archipelagos lie within the
Tarutao National Marine Park: Tarutao,
Klang and Adang Archipelagos—the latter
also known as Butang Archipelago. The 51
islands within these archipelagos can be
divided between the Tarutao Group to the
east and Adang-Rawi Group to the west.
Lying closest to the mainland is the Tarutao
Group with Koh Tarutao, Koh Khai, and a
few other small islands of interest to travellers.
The Adang-Rawi group farther away
from the coast offers the idyllic islands of Koh
Pattaya Beach, Koh Lipe.
Adang, Koh Rawi, Koh Lipe, Koh Butang,
Koh Hin Ngam, Koh Yang, and a few more.
Located to the north of the Tarutao
Archipelago is Koh Bulon Leh and its sister
island, Koh Bulon Don.
The two gateway cities to the region are
Trang, the capital of Trang Province, and
Hat Yai in Songkhla Province. Roads from
both cities lead to the pier in the small village
of Pak Bara from where various types
of boats depart, almost all of which head to
the ever-popular Koh Lipe.
Trang
Bangkok
820 km
Koh Lipe Area
Koh Rawi
Koh Yang
Koh Adang
Koh Bulon Leh
Hat Yai
Koh Batong
Koh Hin Ngam
Koh Lipe
Pak Bara Pier
Stone Beach
Koh Hin Ngam.
Koh Khai
Koh Tarutao
Langkawi, Malaysia
Feature Article | 13

Islands of Thailand
NOTABLE ISLANDS WITH LODGING
Of the many islands in this region,
only Koh Lipe offers a wide array of accommodation
while Koh Bulon Leh also
has a few places to stay. On Koh Adang,
Koh Rawi, and Koh Tarutao, the local
National Parks office provides basic
bungalows as well as campsites with tents
for rent.
Koh Tarutao is by far the largest
island in this region and the 4th largest
in Thailand. Measuring 26 kilometres (16
mi) long and 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) wide,
it is known for its limestone cliffs, former
prison sites, unspoiled beaches, dense
jungles and mountain peaks that reach up
to 713 metres (2,339 ft) high. As the island
forms part of the Mu Ko Tarutao National
Marine Park, it has remained almost completely
untouched over the years and has
some excellent hiking trails through the
dense jungle.
The best beaches are located along the
north-western side and include Ao Pante,
Ao Mo Lae and Ao Son. While no resorts
are allowed on the island, the National
Parks office, located at Ao Pante on the
north-western tip, manages the bungalows
and tents at all three beaches. While
bungalows can be pre-booked through the
National Parks website, tents are available
on a first-come-first-served basis. To save
money, bring along your own tent.
tion is available, but like most lodging
on the island it must be booked well in
advance, in particular during peak times.
Koh Lipe’s best beaches are on the eastern
and northern sides of the island, as well
as a few hidden coves around the southwestern
end.
A short distance north of Koh Lipe lies
Koh Adang, the second biggest island in
the Tarutao Archipelago with its highest
peak at 690 metres (2,264 ft). Unspoiled
and untouched by mass tourism, this is
how most islands in Thailand used to be
20 to 30 years ago. Adang offers several
beaches with clear water, an abundance of
offshore coral reefs, a hilly interior covered
in dense jungle, the Pha Chado panoramic
viewpoint, and the Namtok Chon Salat
waterfall. There are no roads on the island
so the best way to reach its beaches is to
charter a long-tail boat.
The only hotel is the Adang Island
Resort located right on the beachfront in
the south of the island. The National Parks
ranger station, which has a few bungalows
that can be pre-booked through its website,
also rents out tents and sleeping mats,
and has a restaurant, although you can
bring your own tent and food.
Koh Rawi’s beaches on the north
and western sides are among the best of
all islands in the Adang Archipelago. The
island has a few jungle trails and waterfalls
and is uninhabited except for a campsite
on a gorgeous stretch of beach, Haad Sai
Khao, in the island’s south-eastern corner.
This beach is home to the National Parks
ranger station which offers fairly rudimentary
services. Availability of tents is not
guaranteed, so check before heading out,
or bring your own tent and food.
Once home to the semi-nomadic
“Sea Gypsy” boat-people, also known as
the Moken or Chao Le, Koh Lipe has
now become one of the most sought after
destinations in all of Thailand, attracting
hordes of locals and foreigners alike for a
very good reason—Koh Lipe and its surrounding
islands are simply extraordinary!
Ao Pante Malacca, Tarutao Island.
The island has all the ingredients of an
idyllic paradise: white sand beaches with
palm trees, crystal clear waters, a laid-back
vibe, great sunrise and sunset beaches, and
a variety of accommodation, restaurants
and bars. It also serves as the ideal base
from which to visit several islands across
the region’s three archipelagos.
Due to its distance from the mainland
and its newfound popularity, it has
become one of the most expensive and
over-developed islands in all of Thailand.
Cheaper, and less inspiring, accommoda-
Rugged western coast of Koh Adang.
14 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 1
The only other island in the region that
offers accommodation is Koh Bulon Leh
which lies 20 kilometres (12.4 mi) west of
the La-Ngu district of Satun Province. This
tiny island, home to a small community
of Urak Lawoi living in modest wooden
houses, is a little-known gem offering a
laid-back island atmosphere and a brilliant
white beach with aquamarine water. Measuring
only two kilometres (1.2 mi) long
and on average 700 metres (2,296 ft) wide,
walking is the best way to get around. Only
the inhabited eastern half of the island is
accessible by a few paths as much of the
western side of the island is covered in
thick jungle, and has two caves, “Bat Cave”
and “Nose Cave”, which are only accessible
by sea.
Koh Bulon Leh’s only beach is located
on the south-eastern side of the island, and
while the beach strip is only 1.3 kilometres
(0.81 mi) long, its beauty over-compensates
for its lack of length. A small school
near the beach provides its unofficial name
of “School Beach”. The Casuarina trees
along the beach provide ample shade.
The two recommended bungalow
operators are the Pansand Resort and the
Bulon Resort along this beautiful white
sand beach. Further away from the beach,
a few basic bungalows are available for
budget-minded travellers.
Its nearby sister island, Koh Bulon
Don, has a long sandy beach and an Urak
Lawoi village. There are no tourist facilities
or accommodation but daytime visitors are
more than welcome.
South side of Koh Lipe.
Bungalows by the beach, Koh Bulon Leh.
Hermit crab on Koh Bulon Leh.
Feature Article | 15

Islands of Thailand
Bulow Beach, Koh Lipe.
THE UNSPOILED BEACHES
Patai Galah Beach, Koh Lipe.
The region has no shortage of beautiful
white sand beaches as well as clean, turquoise
waters. It is also arguably the best
place in Thailand for snorkelling day trips.
Among the best beaches on islands with
accommodation are:
1) Bulow Beach, Koh Lipe
Located at the northernmost tip of Koh
Lipe, and an extension of Sunrise Beach on
the east side, this small beach has fine white
sand and clear turquoise waters. The rustic
Heaven Bar on the beach offers a welcome
escape from the midday sun and is particularly
pleasant around sunset and after dark.
The beach can be noisy with passing longtail
boats en route to Sunrise Beach in the
east and Pattaya Beach in the south.
2) Hidden Cove Beaches, Koh Lipe
Located in three coves near the southwestern
end of Koh Lipe are Secret Beach,
Svedo Beach and Patai Galah Beach. These
beaches can be reached by hiking through
the jungle on a small path that often disappears
in the thick bush, or by taking a
long-tail boat from Pattaya Beach.
The star of the three is the easternmost
Patai Galah Beach, with beautiful sand,
lots of shade, and clean waters flanked
by rocks that offer protection against the
small waves.
The only drawback of these beaches
is the constant stream of roaring ferries
and noisy long-tail boats between Pattaya
Beach and Pak Bara Pier. Be here early in
the morning, and sometimes for the rest of
the day, and you may have the entire beach
to yourself
3) Western Beaches, Koh Adang
The western side of the island has the
most beautiful beaches and can easily be
reached on day trips from Koh Lipe.
However, it is best to stay on Koh Adang
to enjoy the island’s beaches, pristine
jungles, waterfalls and sunsets; and to hike
up the hills for panoramic views over Koh
Lipe to the south.
4) School Beach, Koh Bulon Leh
Stretching from Pansand Resort past
the school to Bulon Resort, this is one of
the whitest sand beaches in the region.
When the wind is not blowing too
strongly, the water is beautifully clear and
the swaying palm trees offer plenty of
shade.
Located about halfway between Koh
Tarutao and Koh Lipe is tiny Koh Khai
with no accommodation. The beach and
water are spectacular, and the island is
famous for a rock arch on the beach. Some
ferries have a short (and free) stopover
here between Pak Bara Pier and Koh Lipe.
Other gorgeous beaches on islands
without accommodation can be found
to the north and north-west of Koh Lipe.
Koh Hin Ngam, which means “Island of
Beautiful Stones”, has an exceptionally rare
coloured stone beach.
The snorkelling and diving in this region
are among the very best in Thailand.
16 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 1
Rock Bridge Beach, Koh Khai.
Western side of Koh Adang.
School Beach, Koh Bulon Leh.
Stone Beach, Koh Hin Ngam.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting there: Access from the
mainland is mainly via the public pier at
Pak Bara, 100 kilometres (62 mi) directly
south of the town of Trang, capital of
Trang Province. Pak Bara can also be
reached from Hat Yai in Songkhla Province,
210 kilometres (130 mi) to the east.
Both Trang and Hat Yai have domestic
airports, as well as long-distance train and
bus stations.
From Pak Bara, the most frequent ferries
are to Koh Lipe, some of which offer a
quick stop at Koh Tarutao and also at Koh
Khai. Direct ferries also operate to Koh
Tarutao.
Koh Bulon Leh currently has no
regular ferry service so visitors must rely
on infrequent long-tail boats from Pak
Bara Pier. Private speedboats and long-tails
can be boarded at Pak Bara Pier to several
islands in the region.
Getting around: The only island
with roads fit for a motorbike or bicycle is
Koh Lipe. As this island is so small, wheels
are more of a convenience than an essential.
Only some islands have hiking trails
and these may involve a bit of climbing.
Sleep, eat and drink: Koh Lipe
is by far the most developed island in the
region with a wide range of accommodation,
restaurants and bars. Pattaya Beach
in the south and Sunrise Beach in the east
are packed with tourist facilities while the
northern side of the island offers more upscale
accommodation and is less crowded.
Koh Adang, Koh Rawi, and Koh Tarutao
offer accommodation at the National
Parks’ bungalows and campsites while Koh
Bulon Leh has a couple of resorts, of which
only Pansand and Bulon Resorts are on the
beautiful white sand beach.
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Islands of Thailand
2. LOWER CENTRAL ANDAMAN
Where gorgeous beaches and quaint
fishing villages are the focus.
The Lower Central Andaman Coast is
a subdued region where crowded beach
parties are virtually non-existent. Either
relax in an upscale resort on the northern
islands specifically developed for tourists,
or experience island life and the fishing
villages on the southern islands where
tourism is an afterthought.
LOCATION & GATEWAY
The Lower Central Andaman Coast
region stretches from Koh Sukorn in the
south all the way north to Koh Ngai—a
distance of about 60 kilometres (37 mi).
The region’s islands can be divided into
three sections based on which mainland
pier they use: The south (Koh Sukorn, Koh
Phetra and Koh Lao Liang), central (Koh
Libong and Koh Rok), and the north (Koh
Kradan, Koh Mook, and Koh Ngai).
Koh Libong is by far the largest island,
followed by Koh Sukorn and Koh Mook.
This region is primarily accessed from
the town of Trang, which has a domestic
airport, as well as train and bus stations.
Alternatively, the towns of Phuket, Krabi,
and even Hat Yai in the south-east are
gateways to the region.
On the southernmost island in this
region, Koh Sukorn, tourism is an
afterthought as the local villagers go about
their daily lives of fishing and working in
their coconut and rubber tree plantations.
The island is also known for its succulent
watermelons and cashew nuts. During crab
season some locals freely share their daily
crab curries with passing travellers.
The island is quite flat with only two
hills, one of them offering a panoramic
viewpoint overlooking the Andaman Sea
and the island itself. It has long stretches
of beach along the western side, although
they are not as picturesque as beaches
elsewhere. The attraction here is the island
life, and wide unspoiled beaches which are
great for long walks.
Koh Libong is likewise not known
for its idyllic beaches, though it is ideal for
experiencing the lives of the islanders. Almost
the entire west coast is undeveloped
with long stretches of golden beaches only
interrupted by rocky outcrops.
Among the many natural attractions
here are the unusual rock formations and,
in particular, the rocks at Libong Stone
Koh Kradan
Koh Ngai
Koh Mook
Pak Meng
Pier
Kuan Tung Ku Pier
Bridge north of the island’s scenic Tung
Yaka Beach. In the south is Fisherman’s
Cave at Point Dugong where an opening
in a limestone tower with impressive caves
looks out over the bay.
Endangered dugongs, protected as
part of the Libong Archipelago Wildlife
Reserve, can be spotted in the waters and
mangroves. The dugongs can also be seen
from a high purpose-built tower at Ban Ba
Tu Pu Te village or by taking a boat tour.
A few resorts are clustered along the
southwestern side of the island at Haad
Lang Kao Beach where the northern part
of the beach, near Dugong Resort, is quite
lovely.
Located north-west of Koh Libong and
much further away from the mainland,
Koh Kradan has a few resorts along its
eastern shores and no local villages.
The rest of the island is a thick jungle
that forms part of the Hat Chao Mai
National Park. The only reason for coming
to this island is for its stunning postcardbeautiful
beach with turquoise waters,
aptly named Paradise Beach.
Trang (50 km)
Hat Yao Pier
Trang (60 km)
NOTABLE ISLANDS WITH LODGING
The islands with accommodation are
Koh Sukorn, Koh Libong, Koh Kradan,
Koh Mook, and Koh Ngai while others,
such as Koh Lao Liang, have only camping
facilities. Only Koh Sukorn, Koh Libong,
and Koh Mook have local fishing villages.
The other islands remain rather unspoiled
as in the absence of local communities,
the jungle has not been slashed and
burned to make way for agriculture and
livestock.
Koh Rok
Koh Libong
Koh Lao Liang
Koh Phetra
Koh Sukorn
Ta-Seh Pier
18 Globerovers · July 2021

The nearby coral reefs offer great
snorkelling directly from the beach. Koh
Kradan is often described as the “hidden
gem of the Andaman Sea” and “the ultimate
paradise island of Thailand”.
As resorts here are quite pricey with no
option of eating cheaply in a local village,
those on a tight budget are better off staying
on Koh Mook and visiting Koh Kradan
on a day trip.
REGION 2
LOWER CENTRAL ANDAMAN
Haad Lang Kao, Koh Libong.
Crab season on Koh Sukorn.
Main road on Koh Sukorn.
Ban Ba Tu Pu Pe village from Leekpai bridge, Koh Libong.
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Islands of Thailand
Koh Mook (also written “Muk”), has
a good mix of tourist facilities and local
villages as well as great hiking, excellent
beaches, good snorkelling, reasonable accommodation,
and even an open cave with
a hidden entrance! Nearly half of the island
is part of the Hat Chao Mai National Park
while the remainder has fishing villages
with some stilted houses perched above
the sea.
On the east side, the large Koh Mook
Sivalai Beach Resort is flanked by the
stunning Pearl and Sivalai Beaches. Across
the island on the south-western end is the
wide Farang Beach and further north is the
hidden Sabai Beach.
Just a few hundred metres south of
Sabai Beach is Koh Mook’s star attraction,
the Emerald Cave (also known as Morrakot
Cave). The cave is best reached by
a long-tail boat. Be here halfway between
low- and high-tide to take a 10-minute
nerve-wracking swim through the pitch
dark bat-filled cave to reach the lovely
white sandy beach and its emerald-green
water surrounded by high cliffs overgrown
with lush vegetation.
Koh Ngai, pronounced “Koh Hai”,
is the closely related sister island of Koh
Kradan. Koh Ngai also has no local village
life, no roads, and no independently
owned restaurants and shops as the island
is dedicated to upscale tourism. The island
has lots of tranquillity, unspoiled jungle,
and just a couple of resorts along one of
Thailand’s most gorgeous beaches. Most
visitors rarely leave the luxury of their
beachfront resorts where everything is
provided.
Snorkelling off the beach is good,
though it is much better at nearby Koh
Chueak, Koh Waen and Koh Ma. These
small rocky islands also make the perfect
backdrop for photos from the beach.
Mali Resort, Koh Kradan.
Jungle on Koh Kradan.
Mali Resort (L) and Kradan Island Resort (R), Koh Kradan.
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Region 2
Koh Lao Liang, which forms part of
the Mu Ko Phetra National Park, consists
of two islands. Koh Lao Liang Nong, or
“little brother island”, is located north of
the narrow channel that separates it from
Koh Lao Liang Phi, or “big brother island”.
Both are covered in thick jungle, huge
banyan trees, and have tall limestone cliffs
rising dramatically over their magnificent
beaches. Koh Lao Liang Nong is home to
the Laoliang Resort which offers tents by
the beach.
Ao Lo Dang, Koh Mook.
The village on Koh Mook.
Eastern beach of Koh Ngai.
Views from the eastern beach of Koh Ngai.
Starfi sh on Sivalai Beach, Koh Mook.
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Islands of Thailand
THE UNSPOILED BEACHES
The most beautiful beaches and clearest
waters in this region are at the northern
islands—Koh Ngai, Koh Mook, Koh
Kradan and Koh Rok—and at the southern
islands that are further away from the
mainland, including Koh Lao Liang and
Koh Phetra.
The islands closest to the mainland—
Koh Libong and Koh Sukorn—are more
popular for their tranquil villages with
friendly locals rather than the beaches.
While not the most beautiful, each beach
has its own special charm.
The best beaches on islands with accommodation
are:
1) Sabai Beach, Koh Mook
A rugged jungle trail leads from Koh
Mook’s northern pier north-west along the
rocky coast to Lo Dung Beach, which is
not spectacular but has great views of the
cliffs towering above the sea. It is possible
to get here by motorbike or bicycle, though
the dirt trail is narrow and fairly rough.
Continue west on this overgrown trail
through the lush jungle until you reach the
beach. Flanked on both sides by impressive
limestone cliffs, this is one of the most scenic
locations in the region. The sand is slightly
coarse and the water is brilliantly clear.
2) Tung Yaka Beach, Koh Libong
This long and undeveloped beach with
lots of palm trees is located along the central
west coast. Without a boat, this beach
can be reached on two wheels.
From the resorts in the south-west, a
15 kilometre (9.3 mi) ride on a tiny paved
road passes the small Muslim fishing village,
Ban Ba Tu Pu Te, in the south and
then continues north past Baan Maphao
village to Tohkay Bay. Here the road turns
west and then south, past the famous
Libong Stone Bridge (locally known as
“Saphan Hin”), and on to Tung Yaka Beach.
With no tourist accommodation on
this part of the island and few locals living
here, the beach is empty most of the time.
The broad expanse of golden sand is great
for long walks with only nature as your
companion.
3) Pearl Beach, Koh Mook
The east side of Koh Mook forms a
sharp point facing the mainland. Around
this point Pearl Beach is one of the most
scenic beaches in the region at low tide,
as during high tide much of it disappears
under the waves.
From the southern side of the beach at
the Koh Mook Sivalai Beach Resort, thousands
of starfish can be spotted during low
tide, along with the occasional appearance
of huge colonies of tiny red crabs that roam
over large patches of the beach at sunrise.
4) Sunset Beach, Koh Kradan
Located directly across from the
Sabai Beach, Koh Mook.
Sabai Beach, Koh Mook.
Tung Yaka Beach, Koh Libong.
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Region 2
southern part of Paradise Beach in a small
bay on the west side of the island, is Sunset
Beach, accessible by a well-marked jungle
trail. Sadly, a thick pile of old plastic garbage
has built up behind the beach. Look
towards the sea, away from the unsightly
rubbish, and enjoy this secluded beach, especially
at sunset. It is unquestionably one
of the most beautiful beaches in the region.
5) Beaches of Koh Rok
The sister islands of Koh Rok Yai and Koh
Rok Noi are over 30 kilometres (18.6 mi)
west of Koh Libong. The islands have no local
villages or resorts other than a National
Parks office that rents out a few bungalows
and tents along the beach. The beaches are
picturesque with crystal clear water.
6) Beaches of Koh Lao Liang
Koh Lao Liang’s two islands have some
of the best beaches in this region. At Koh
Lao Liang Nong vertical limestone cliffs
tower over the beach on three sides and
while it is relatively small, the scenery is
breathtakingly beautiful. Koh Lao Liang
Phi has even larger cliffs and a beach twice
as long as its smaller brother.
With no accommodation, Koh
Phetra boasts a sweeping white sand
beach with spectacular limestone ridges
and jungle-fringed cliffs, honeycombed
with caves and overhangs. The steep walls
on both sides of Koh Phetra are home to
thousands of sea swallows.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting there: Koh Sukorn in the
south is served by Ta-Se Pier, while centrally
located Koh Libong is served by Hat
Yao Pier. Khuan Tung Ku Pier provides
access to the northern part of this region
which includes Koh Mook, the closest
island, as well as Koh Ngai to its north and
Koh Kradan to its south.
Pak Meng Pier also services these three
northern islands, particularly Koh Ngai.
All four piers are best reached from the
town of Trang. Alternatively, the towns of
Krabi to the north-west, and Hat Yai to
the south-east, have airports but are much
further away than Trang. Hat Yai also has a
train line connected to Bangkok.
Getting around: Only Koh Mook,
Koh Libong and Koh Sukorn have small
roads fit for bicycles or motorbikes. All
three islands have local villages so it is a
pleasure to drive around and explore the
islands while meeting the friendly locals.
Sleep, eat and drink: The islands
with villages—Koh Mook, Koh Libong and
Koh Sukorn—have restaurants targeted
at the locals where Thai food is served at
incredibly reasonable prices. The islands
with resorts but no local villages have restaurants
with inflated tourist prices.
Sunrise over Pearl Beach, Koh Mook.
Sunset Beach, Koh Kradan.
Sunset over Pearl Beach, Koh Mook.
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Islands of Thailand
Ting Rai Beach, Koh Jum.
Ton Sai Beach (L) and Loh Dalum Beach (R), Koh Phi Phi Don.
Klong Nin Beach, Koh Lanta.
Barman at Laem Kho Kwang Beach, Koh Lanta.
Saloon in Old Town, Koh Lanta.
24 Globerovers · July 2021

3. UPPER CENTRAL ANDAMAN
Easily accessible from Phuket and Krabi
Town, this region is filled with surprises.
REGION 3
Upper Central Andaman
The Upper Central Andaman Coast is
dominated by the much-developed Koh
Phuket, less-developed Koh Lanta, and
the ever-popular Koh Phi Phi, all of which
are ideal bases from which to explore the
region. Fortunately, some islands offer fishing
villages, unspoiled lonely beaches, and
a more laid-back island vibe.
LOCATION & GATEWAY
The region stretches from Koh Lanta
in the south-east all the way to Koh Phuket
in the north-west. Phuket is Thailand’s
largest island while Koh Lanta is the eighth
largest.
Koh
Phuket
Koh Yao Noi
Koh Yao Yai
Koh Phi Phi Don
Among the many islands in this region
that offer accommodation are Koh Lanta
Yai, Koh Phi Phi Don, Koh Jum, Koh Sriboya,
and the sister islands of Koh Yao Yai
and Koh Yao Noi.
The main access points are Koh Phuket
to the west, giving access to Koh Yao Yai
and Koh Yao Noi; and Krabi Town to the
east which is closer to Koh Lanta, Koh
Jum, Koh Sriboya and even Koh Phi Phi.
Koh Sriboya
Koh Pu
Krabi
Koh Jum
Klong Jilad
Pier
Koh Lanta Noi
Bangkok
780 km
Laem Kruat
Pier
Long Beach, Koh Lanta.
NOTABLE ISLANDS WITH LODGING
Most travellers to the region head
straight from Phuket’s international airport
to one of the island’s many beaches. As
most of Phuket’s beaches are well developed,
we will leave the island for more
tranquil destinations on several of the
region’s less developed islands.
Koh Lanta is actually two islands—
the much less visited Koh Lanta Noi to the
north and the popular crescent-shaped
Koh Lanta Yai in the south. Koh Lanta Yai
is well developed, in particular along its 20
kilometres (12 mi) of west coast beaches.
Further south, the resorts become
fewer and the beaches, such as Klong Nin
Beach, Nui Beach, and Bakantiang Beach,
are more unspoiled. At the northernmost
tip of the island, north of the Laem Kho
Kwang Beach isthmus, a large white sandbank
is exposed during low tide which is
a pleasure to explore. Koh Lanta Yai has a
variety of accommodation catering to all
budgets.
Koh Phi Phi, a small archipelago
northwest of Koh Lanta, is world-renowned
for its beautiful beaches and has
become a Thai island celebrity with its
spectacular beach photos splashed all over
travel media.
Koh Lanta Yai
Koh Phi Phi Don, the largest island
in this archipelago, is the only inhabited
island with most accommodation located
at its isthmus.
Nearby is Koh Phi Phi Leh with its
famous Maya Bay. Currently closed to
tourists so the beach can recuperate after
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Islands of Thailand
years of abuse, Maya Bay is expected to
reopen soon.
Koh Phi Phi Don has some of the most
popular and beautiful beaches, such as
Ton Sai, Loh Dalum, Viking Beach, and
Long Beach, all of which offer numerous
resorts. However, a few less-visited beaches
can be found tucked along its indented
coast. While most conveniently reached by
private long-tail boat, put on your hiking
shoes and head into the jungle in search
of these hidden gems, which include Nui
Beach and nearby Laem Tong Beach at the
island’s northern tip. South of Laem Tong
Beach lies the beautiful Ba Kao Bay.
Further south is Phak Nam Bay, also
known as Relax Bay, with its long white
sand beach and two resorts, which is best
reached by boat as this trail is quite challenging.
Koh Jum, located to the north of Koh
Lanta, is perhaps one of the quietest and
most laid-back islands in this region. The
island has a couple of fishing villages and
a road suitable for a motorbike or bicycle.
Koh Jum, the southern part of the island, is
fairly flat, while Koh Pu, the northern part,
has more hills.
Much of the west coast consists of long
stretches of beach fringed by coconut trees
where about 20 basic resorts are spread out
along an eight-kilometre-long (5 mi) coast.
The roads are mostly tiny unpaved
paths fit only for experienced bikers, so
some beaches are more conveniently
reached by boat. Among the best beaches
from south to north are Freedom Beach,
Andaman Beach, Golden Pearl Beach, Ao
Si, Magic Beach, Ting Rai Beach, Sunset
Beach, Coconut Beach, Banyan Bay and
Rocky Beach. While not the most spectacular
beaches in the region, they offer
tranquillity, great sunsets, and long peaceful
walks.
Koh Sriboya, located directly north
of Koh Jum, is quite similar but is even less
visited by tourists. The island is home to
fishermen and rubber-plantation workers,
with dirt roads and footpaths connecting
the small communities. While the island’s
beaches are appealing, visitors come here
to relax and become acquainted with the
friendly islanders. A handful of basic
resorts and homestays cater to the few
travellers who venture here.
Koh Yao Yai or “big long island” is
the larger of the two main islands in the
Koh Yao Archipelago and measures almost
30 kilometres (18.6 mi) in length. A few
resorts are located along the best beaches
which are in the north-east and southwest,
in particular Laem Had, Loh Jak,
Loh Pared, and Ao Muang. Head to the far
south to visit the photogenic Laem Laan
fishing village.
Located less than a kilometre to the
north, Koh Yao Noi, or “little long
island”, is quite similar in that the sea is not
turquoise and pure white sand beaches are
scarce. While the west coast has mangroves
and rocky beaches, much of the east
coast has wide sandy beaches including
Pasai, Klong Jark and Tha Khao.
The most beautiful beaches are at
the northeastern tip but are the private
property of two resorts: TreeHouse Villas
and the Paradise Resort. A tough hike
further north leads to Mankei Bay which is
flanked by impressive limestone karsts. The
ever-vanishing path goes further to the
“big tree” which, according to local beliefs,
houses the spirit of a woman named Nang
Da Kian in its broad trunk. Ao Kian Bay is
at the northern tip of the island.
Around Koh Phuket are several small
islands such as Koh He, Koh Lon, Coconut
Island, Koh Rang Yai and Koh Rang Noi,
some of which offer upscale resorts.
Laem Laan village, Koh Yao Yai.
Laem Laan village, Koh Yao Yai.
26 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 3
THE UNSPOILED BEACHES
When it comes to the most beautiful
unspoiled beaches on islands with accommodation,
Koh Phi Phi has it all, though it
is not the only island with a special sandy
spot for the discerning island enthusiast:
1) Nui Beach, Koh Phi Phi
This pristine beach is nestled in a tiny
cove west of Lana Bay, in the north-west
of Koh Phi Phi Don. The hiking trail from
the island’s main beach, Loh Dalum, leads
north-west past three viewpoints through
the jungle until it reaches Lana Bay’s large,
unfinished and abandoned resort. From the
west side of the bay, follow an almost invisible
path along the rocks, mostly underwater
at high tide, to a small fishing community
clinging to the narrow, rocky shore.
A short but steep path leads over the
isthmus and down into a bay. The white
sand beach is framed by tall limestone
karsts and several impressive tall, rocky islands
nearby. The water is crystal clear and
great for snorkelling from the beach. Nui
Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches
in Thailand!
2) Laem Tong Beach, Koh Phi Phi
To the north-east of Nui Beach, a 2.6
kilometre-long (1.6 mi) narrow strip of
land juts north-west into the sea. Along
the east side, a small paved road follows
Laem Tong Beach, a long stretch of white
sand and clear water. Although partially
lined with high-end resorts, it remains one
of the most beautiful spots in this region.
3) Loh Moo Dee Beach, Koh Phi Phi
Near the southeastern tip of Koh Phi Phi
Don, and easily reached by footpath from
the main ferry pier at Ton Sai via Viking
Beach and Long Beach, lies Loh Moo Dee
Beach. This 360-metre-long (1,190 ft) beach
has no accommodation but is one of the
region’s most impressive beaches lined with
large shady trees and forests at both ends.
Near the beach, a rustic restaurant
and bar offers refreshments but signs on
the trees forbid visitors to enjoy their own
food and drinks.
Nui Beach, Koh Phi Phi Don.
Loh Ba Khao Bay, Koh Phi Phi Don
Laem Tong Beach, Koh Phi Phi Don.
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Islands of Thailand
Loh Moo Dee Beach, Koh Phi Phi Don.
Loh Moo Dee Beach, Koh Phi Phi Don.
4) Laem Had Beach, Koh Yao Yai
Also known as the Koh Yao Yai Sandbank,
the sparkling white spit of sand is located
on Koh Yao Yai’s northern peninsula
and stretches out towards the southern bay
of its nearby sister island, Koh Yao Noi.
Fringed by a thick grove of coconut trees,
the sandbank is best explored during low
tide when it is possible to walk over 400
metres (1,312 ft) out into the sea. If you
visit around sunrise, you may be accompanied
by thousands of tiny red crabs!
5) Mankei Bay Beach, Koh Yao Noi
Located on the far northeastern tip of
the island lies the very secluded Mankei
Bay and its beach. Getting here overland
is quite a rewarding adventure. From Tha
Khao Pier on the central east side of the
island, follow a small road on motorbike or
bicycle for about 7.5 kilometres (4.7 mi) to
the high-security gates of the Paradise Koh
Yao Resort. Just before the gates, a smaller
path turns left then heads straight north.
As this path is very small, it is best to walk
the remaining 1.1 kilometres (0.68 mi) to
Mankei Bay. Flanked by massive limestone
rocks, it is a sight to behold!
6) Sunset Beach, Koh Jum
The island’s most scenic beach—and
also one of the least visited—is located on
its north-western side, with lots of white
sand and clear water. The beach trees
provide ample shade while the Sunset
Beach Bungalows has a restaurant with
cold drinks.
6) Nui Beach, Koh Lanta
Koh Lanta’s best beaches are on the
southern half of the west coast. The
jewel in the crown is Nui Beach, not to
be confused with Nui Bay a kilometre
further south. With only one place to stay,
the Diamond Cliff Beach Restaurant at
the northern end, this gorgeous beach is
mostly deserted.
Laem Had Beach, Koh Yao Yai.
This region has many fabulous beaches
on islands without accommodation, including
the spectacular beaches at Bamboo
Island (Koh Pai) and Moskito
Island north of Laem Tong Beach at the
northern tip of Koh Phi Phi Don.
Koh Haa means ‘five islands’ and
unsurprisingly consists of five limestone islands
located about an hour by boat to the
west of Koh Lanta. The main island, Koh
Haa Yai, was once a shelter for sea gypsies
and local fishermen as its tiny natural
harbour provided a safe haven from the
monsoon storms. The islands are known
for their white sand beaches, stunning
karst formations, crystal clear water, and a
shallow lagoon. The island has no accommodation
but can be visited on day trips.
28 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 3
Nui Beach, Koh Lanta.
Sunset Beach, Koh Pu.
Mankei Bay, Koh Yao Noi.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting there: Almost the entire
region can be reached from Phuket Town
on the southwest of Koh Phuket, which
has several piers offering fast ferries, slow
ferries, long-tail and speedboats.
Boats to Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi
leave from Bang Rong Pier, 23 kilometres
(14 mi) north of Phuket Town.
Koh Lanta, Koh Jum, Koh Sriboya,
and mainland beaches such as Railay
Beach and Ao Nang, are located closer to
Krabi Town. Both Phuket and Krabi have
airports and long-distance bus stations.
Neither has a train station, though Krabi’s
nearest train station is at Surat Thani, some
150 kilometres (93 mi) to the north. Buses,
minivans, ferries, speedboats and private
long-tail boats are plentiful across the
region.
Getting around: As the only island
linked by road to the mainland, Koh
Phuket has highways and byways where
car rental is common, while Koh Lanta
requires a very short car crossing by ferry.
Koh Lanta has good roads along both
the west and east coasts. The other islands
in this region have mostly paved and
unpaved paths fit only for motorbikes and
bicycles. Koh Phi Phi is mostly inaccessible
by wheels.
Sleep, eat and drink: The islands
of Phuket, Lanta and Phi Phi are the most
developed with plentiful accommodation
and restaurants catering to all budgets,
from inexpensive to super-luxury.
Tourist facilities are less abundant or
grandiose on the other islands. Koh Sriboya
is the least developed island, with just
a few budget places to stay and eat.
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Islands of Thailand
4. NORTHERN ANDAMAN COAST
A less-developed area with the most
beautiful beaches and great snorkelling.
Thailand’s Northern Andaman Coast
lies south of the pristine Mergui Archipelago
of Myanmar. Enjoy the region’s
abundance of marine life at the Similan and
Surin Archipelagos. Closer to the coast, the
islands are laid-back and beaches unspoiled.
LOCATION & GATEWAY
The Northern Andaman Coast lies
north of Koh Phuket and stretches from
Koh Similan, 60 kilometres (37 mi) west of
Khao Lak on Thailand’s west coast, all the
way north to the Myanmar border.
NOTABLE ISLANDS WITH LODGING
The saying “the best is in the west” is
very true for Thailand’s westernmost Koh
Similan and Koh Surin archipelagoes.
Both offer crystal clear emerald-green
water with white sand beaches, and some
of Thailand’s best coral reefs for diving and
snorkelling.
While Koh Surin offers accommodation
in the National Park’s bungalows and tents,
this is no longer possible on Koh Similan
where only day-trippers are allowed.
Koh Surin is an archipelago of five
islands within the Mu Ko Surin National
Park, covering an area of 135 square kilometres
(52 mi²), of which 76% is ocean.
The two largest islands, Koh Surin Nuea
Myanmar
and Koh Surin Tai, are just 200 metres (656
ft) apart.
On the largest island, Koh Surin
Nuea, the National Parks office rents out
bungalows at Chong Khat Bay. A bit further
north at the more scenic and tranquil
Mai Ngam Beach are several standard and
a few glamping tents, set up right by the
beach. Pitch your own tent for a small fee.
The smooth, pristine waters with
aquamarine hues at Mai Ngam Beach are
among Thailand’s finest. There are several
beautiful beaches across the archipelago
but other than those with accommodation,
all beaches are off-limits to tourists as they
are home to breeding turtles and other
wildlife.
Ranong
Northeast of Koh Similan, close to the
mainland near the town of Kuraburi, lie
the three sister islands of Koh Kho Khao,
Koh Phra Thong, and Koh Ra. Although
these three off-the-beaten-track islands are
close to the mainland, their west-facing,
long beaches of golden sand with turquoise
waters are pristine.
Koh Phayam
Koh Chang Noi
To the west, 55 kilometres (34 mi)
from the mainland, is the idyllic Koh Surin
Archipelago which consists of two large islands—Koh
Surin Nuea and Koh Surin Tai;
and three small islands—Koh Ri, Koh Kai,
and Koh Klang. Nearby Richelieu Rock
is regarded as one of the best dive spots in
the world.
Koh Surin
Near the Thailand coast and just south
of mainland Myanmar’s southernmost
point, are the laid-back islands of Koh
Phayam and Koh Chang Noi.
Koh Similan can only be visited on day
trips from Koh Phuket or Khao Lak Beach.
Koh Ra
Kuraburi
(Bangkok: 690 km)
The town of Kuraburi is the gateway to
the central part of the region (Koh Surin,
Koh Kho Khao, Koh Phra Thong, and Koh
Ra) while the town of Ranong near mainland
Myanmar is the stepping stone to Koh
Phayam and Koh Chang Noi.
Koh Similan
Koh Phra Thong
Koh Kho Khao
30 Globerovers · July 2021

The smaller of the two big islands, Koh
Surin Tai, has a small Moken village.
The Surin Archipelago’s wildlife includes
mouse deer, flying lemur, pig-tailed
monkey, and rare birds such as the Nicobar
pigeon and the pied imperial pigeon.
Diving and snorkelling are worldrenowned,
in particular Richelieu Rock,
10 kilometres (6.2 mi) to the south-west of
Koh Surin Nuea.
Nearer to the mainland, limited accommodation
is available on the three
sister islands: Koh Kho Khao, Koh Phra
Thong, and Koh Ra.
The flat landscapes of Koh Kho Khao
and Koh Phra Thong were devastated during
the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, which
is partly the reason why they are still quite
undeveloped with limited roads and tourist
infrastructure.
The southernmost island Koh Kho
Khao, with its long, beautiful beaches, is
the most developed of the three islands
with decent roads and good accommodation
due to the proximity of its southern
tip to the mainland.
Golden Buddha Beach, Koh Phra Thong.
REGION 4
Northern Andaman Coast
Koh Phra Thong, the middle link
in this chain of three islands, is mostly flat
with extensive inland savannah and a few
small brackish lakes. It has long, uninhabited
beaches lined with coconut palms.
The two small fishing villages are inhabited
mainly by the Moken people.
Koh Ra, the northernmost of the
three islands, is a mostly mountainous
island covered in rainforest. It is the least
developed, and its mostly untouched forest
is rich in mammals, reptiles, amphibians
and birds, including several species of
hornbills.
With the exception of two upscale
resorts on Koh Phra Thong and another on
Koh Kho Khao, accommodation on these
islands is limited to local-style huts.
At the northern end of this region are
the islands of Koh Phayam and Koh
Chang Noi. The long beaches, laid-back
atmosphere, affordable accommodation,
and ease of reaching the islands all contribute
to their solid following among loyal
visitors.
Both islands have a good network of
small paved roads, ideal for exploring on
two wheels. The lack of large resorts and
pedestrian-only streets offers a truly authentic
island experience, little affected by
the few tourists who know how to appreciate
these islands.
Chong Khat Bay, Koh Surin Nuea.
Moken village, Koh Surin Tai.
Feature Article |
31

Islands of Thailand
Long Beach / Ao Yai (Big Bay), Koh Chang Noi.
Ao Yai, Koh Phayam.
Ao Khao, Koh Phayam.
Koh Phayam’s beaches include the
most developed Ao Yai (Long Beach) situated
on the western side; Ao Mook which
is south of the village and pier on the east
coast; Ao Kao Kwa (Buffalo Bay) in the
north-west; and the secluded Ao Kwang
Peeb at the northernmost tip. While none
of these beaches can compare with Koh
Similan or Koh Surin, each beach has its
own charm and is worth exploring.
Lying closest to mainland Myanmar,
Koh Chang Noi is even less developed
than Koh Phayam to its south. Its dark
sand beaches, basic hillside bungalows,
birdlife, and cashew orchards offer the ultimate
in tranquillity to those who want to
experience an island where tourism plays
only a minor role in the local economy.
THE UNSPOILED BEACHES
Among the islands in this region with
accommodation, Koh Surin is the closest
to paradise with its clear emerald-green
waters, white sand beaches, and dense,
tropical rain forests.
While the other islands in the region
can’t match Koh Surin’s beauty, they are all
pristine in their own way, with their key attraction
being that they are unspoiled and
undeveloped.
1) Mai Ngam Beach, Koh Surin
While the Koh Surin Archipelago offers
some of the most beautiful beaches,
few are open to tourists as they are protected
for breeding sea turtles. Mai Ngam
Beach, where tents are allowed on the
beach, is one of the very best beaches on
the islands.
At high tide, the water almost slaps
against the tents, while at low tide it is
possible to walk almost a kilometre into
the shallow waters. While the coral here
is not in as good condition as at the many
snorkelling locations around the islands, it
is still quite impressive.
Watch out for clownfish and sea
anemones in the shallow waters, and don’t
be surprised if you get face-to-face with
reef sharks in the slightly deeper waters.
Through the National Parks office near the
beach, snorkelling excursions to several
locations around the archipelago can be
booked.
32 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 4
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Golden Buddha Beach, Koh Phra Thong.
Mai Ngam Beach, Koh Surin.
Getting there: Koh Similan can
only be visited on day trips and is most
conveniently reached by speedboat from
Khao Lak Beach, 80 kilometres (50 mi)
north of Phuket International Airport.
For Koh Surin, head 90 kilometres (56
mi) north of Khao Lak to the small town
of Kuraburi from where regular speedboats
make the 60-minute journey to Koh
Surin Nuea.
Kuraburi is also where long-tail boats
leave for both Koh Phra Thong and Koh
Ra while their southernmost sister, Koh
Kho Khao, is reached by a short boat ride
from Baan Nam Kem Pier north of Khao
Lak Beach on the mainland.
The two northernmost islands in this
region, Koh Phayam and Koh Chang Noi,
can be reached by long-tail boat from the
harbour at Ranong which lies 110 kilometres
(68 mi) north of Kuraburi.
Getting around: Motorbikes can be
rented on all the islands discussed, except
for Koh Similan and Koh Surin, which has
only limited hiking paths.
The variety of reef fish and vibrantly
healthy coral reefs is among the very best
in Thailand.
2) Golden Buddha Beach, Koh
Phra Thong
On the western side of Koh Phra
Thong is a 10-kilometre-long (6.2 mi),
unspoiled golden beach with rolling waves
that is perfect for swimming, romantic
walks and dazzling sunsets.
Here you can easily spend an entire
day sitting under a palm tree watching the
fast running ghost crabs without seeing
another soul.
While Koh Similan no longer allows
overnight stays, it is well worth visiting on
a day trip to enjoy the beautiful beaches
and brilliant waters.
Sleep, eat and drink: This is not a
region known for luxury resorts or a wide
variety of accommodation and restaurants.
Except for a few higher-end resorts,
mainly on Koh Phra Thong, Koh Kho
Khao and Koh Phayam, accommodation
and restaurants are fairly basic but more
than adequate. On Koh Surin, the National
Parks restaurant prepares quite decent Thai
food, but you can bring your own food
from the mainland.
Feature Article | 33

Islands of Thailand
Ao Hin Kong, Koh Tao.
Sai Daeng Beach, Koh Tao.
Ao Hin Kong, Koh Pha Ngan.
Sairee Beach, Koh Tao.
Chaloklum Beach, Koh Phangan.
34 Globerovers · July 2021

5. CENTRAL GULF OF THAILAND
A popular tourist area where finding a
lonely beach is still not too difficult.
The Central Gulf of Thailand is
dominated by the popular and developed
Koh Samui. The region is also a favourite
among backpackers, and full-moon parties
thrive. Even so, these beautiful islands,
known for their crystal clear waters, have
many laid-back coves where life seems to
stand still.
park. Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao are both
known for their backpacker scene and
rowdy parties, though both islands have
several off-the-grid beaches with a more
relaxed atmosphere.
Koh Samui, with its international
airport, offers an endless number of
luxury resorts and spas complete with yoga
retreats, cleansing fasts, tai-chi camps,
and chakra-balancing treatments. While
over-developed and crowded with tourists,
expatriates and locals, the island is known
for its palm-dotted beaches and coconut
groves.
To get a feel for what Koh Samui was
like 30 years ago, head south to Koh
Taen, a small island off its southern tip.
Koh Taen has a tiny fishing community,
REGION 5
Central Gulf of Thailand
Thong Krut, as well as deserted white
sandy beaches, a restaurant or two, and
fan-cooled accommodation at Koh Tan
Village Bungalows.
To the east lies the even smaller island
of Koh Mat Sum (also written as Koh
Matsum and Koh Mudsum) with a lovely
white sandy beach, and great snorkelling
and kayaking. The only accommodation is
the Treasure Koh Madsum Resort.
LOCATION & GATEWAY
From the Andaman Sea in the west we
move east to the Gulf of Thailand. While
the southern gulf north of Malaysia has no
islands of note, the central gulf near the
towns of Surat Thani and Chumphon has
some extraordinarily beautiful islands.
Chumphon (Bangkok 470 km)
Chumphon Pier
Koh Nang Yuan
Koh Tao
This region is dominated by the popular
Koh Samui, Thailand’s second-largest
island with a land area of 229 square kilometres
(88 mi²). Development has been
rapid over the past 20 years, so today’s Koh
Samui is very different from what it was 30
years ago.
Koh Pha Ngan
North of Koh Samui lies Koh Pha
Ngan, with Koh Tao even farther north.
To the west of Koh Samui—and the closest
group of islands to the mainland—is the
Mu Koh Ang Thong National Marine Park,
a pristine archipelago of 42 islands covering
102 square kilometres (39 mi²).
Mu Koh Ang Thong
National Marine Park
Koh Samui
The gateways to this region are
Chumphon for Koh Tao, and Surat Thani
for the remaining islands. Inter-island ferries
connect all the main islands.
NOTABLE ISLANDS WITH LODGING
While Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan and
Koh Tao nowadays have a variety of tourist
accommodation and a mind-boggling
number of restaurants and bars, Koh Ang
Thong remains undeveloped due to its
protected status as part of the national
Surat Thani
(Bangkok 650 km)
Donsak Pier
Lomprayah Tapee Pier
Raja Ferry Pier
Koh Mat Sum
Koh Taen
Feature Article | 35

Islands of Thailand
North of Koh Samui lies Koh Pha
Ngan, the fifth-largest island in Thailand
and the second-largest in this region.
Popular with backpackers who attend the
full-moon parties at Haad Rin Beach and
late-night beach parties that involve fire
dancers, the island also offers lush jungles,
granite boulders, and beautiful beaches.
While the western beaches are the
most developed, the far north and a few
small eastern beaches are a lot more
laid-back. The island has a good network
of roads, mostly along the western side,
which makes it easy to get around on
either two or four wheels.
Koh Tao (Turtle Island) lies to the
north-west of Koh Pha Ngan and is one
of Thailand’s island gems, especially the
nearby Koh Nang Yuan.
Tanote Beach, Koh Tao.
Koh Tao is particularly popular for its
diving spots and its scuba dive schools.
Just like Koh Pha Ngan, the most popular
beaches are along the west coast, while
the northern and eastern sides have only a
few smaller beaches. The island has a good
network of paved roads fit for cars, though
most travellers get around by motorbike.
The island is very hilly, in particular on
the eastern side, so unless you are a confident
biker you had better not take on these
roads. While nearly every bay and cove on
the east side has some accommodation, the
beaches are generally laid-back.
Th e Ang Thong National Marine
Park is an enchanting archipelago that
features towering limestone mountains,
lush tropical jungles, ruggedly steep
limestone cliffs, sinkholes, deserted white
sand beaches, lagoons, waterfalls, hidden
coves, and submerged caves. Its biodiversity
is rich, and it is home to long-tailed
macaques, gibbons, Oriental hornbills,
herons, pacific reef egrets, and thousands
of fruit bats.
Koh Mae Ko features an emeraldgreen
saltwater lagoon called Thale Nai,
surrounded by limestone cliffs and connected
to the sea by a series of underwater
caves. The island also has two lookout
points with sweeping panoramas overlooking
many islands in the archipelago.
The island of Koh Wua Ta Lap,
immediately to the south, is known for
its spectacular viewpoint, which can be
reached by a very challenging 500-metrelong
(1,640 ft) steep trail starting from the
National Parks headquarters.
The park’s islands are mostly uninhabited
except for fishing villages on Koh Wua
Ta Lap and Koh Phaluai.
Accommodation is available at the
National Parks office on Koh Wua Ta Lap
where tents and a few simple bungalows
are available for rent. The facilities here
include a restaurant, visitor centre, first aid
tent and kayaks for rent.
Beach of Koh Nang Yuan.
Bookings can be made in person at
travel agencies on Koh Samui, Koh Tao,
Koh Pha Ngan, Surat Thani or directly
through the National Parks online reservation
system.
THE UNSPOILED BEACHES
The region’s islands are popular among
locals and foreigners alike, though it is not
difficult to find gorgeous beaches off the
normal tourist trails.
While most take some effort to reach,
the journeys are much rewarded. Among
36 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 5
Aow Leuk Bay, Koh Tao.
Isthmus of Koh Nang Yuan.
the best beaches on islands with accommodation
are:
1) Nang Yuan Island, Koh Tao
Located just 550 metres (1,800 ft) off
the north-western end of Koh Tao, Koh
Nang Yuan is one of the most photogenic
spots in Thailand. Koh Nang Yuan consists
of three islands, with the two smaller
islands sporting a 90-metre-long (295 ft)
white non-submersible sandbar connecting
them.
Sadly, this pristine island has become
a very popular tourist attraction and now
has a string of bungalows, a dive shop,
restaurant, and even requires an entrance
fee. The water on both sides of the sandbar,
in particular the west side, has brilliantly
clear aquamarine hues. A footpath leads to
the high rocks above the bungalows from
where the view over the islands is spectacular.
2) Tanote Beach, Koh Tao
Koh Tao has many beautiful beaches
and the best are located on the eastern
side of the island. Tanote Beach, one of the
best snorkelling spots on the island, has
clear water, golden sand, and many large
boulders to swim around.
A big boulder near the beach is ideal
for adrenaline junkies who use a metal
chain to climb up, and gravity to splash
down into the water several metres below.
Feature Article | 37

Islands of Thailand
3) Koh Mae Ko, Koh Ang Thong
The Ang Thong Archipelago of 42
islands is blessed with many beautiful
beaches, though one of the most striking
is on Koh Mae Ko.
Here the beach is spectacular with
exceptional snorkelling and imposing rock
formations towering over it.
4) Haad Yuan, Tien East, and
Haad Wai Nam, Koh Pha Ngan
Haad Rin Beach is infamous for its
rowdy full-moon parties, and is best
visited during the new moon by those who
wish to avoid them.
While Haad Rin Beach is beautiful,
the three secluded coves along the southeast
of the island have the most unspoiled
beaches.
While a long-tail boat can reach these
coves in about 10 to 15 minutes from Haad
Rin Beach, leave the beach on foot via the
jungle path for an exhilarating adventure.
Much further north are the hard-toreach
beaches of Haad Yao East, Haad
Yang, and Haad Nam Tok, all best accessed
by boat.
The east coast offers ample opportunities
for determined hikers to reach the
island’s most hidden beaches.
5) Mae Haad, Koh Pha Ngan
While the entire west coast of Koh Pha
Ngan is lined with cosy bays and superb
beaches, Mae Haad Beach at the northwestern
tip is one of the very best.
Wang Sai Resort has lovely bungalows
and a restaurant on the beach near the
water. A walk along the beach leads to the
small island of Koh Ma, connected by a
sandbank.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting there: Ferries and speedboats
depart from northeast of Surat Thani
at Donsak Pier and nearby Raja Pier to all
these islands. Koh Tao is best reached via
Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan, or if coming
from Bangkok, by taking a boat from the
Lomprayah Pier south of Chumphon.
Both Chumphon and Surat Thani are
on the main railway lines from Bangkok
and can also be reached by overnight
bus from Bangkok. Surat Thani Airport
is located 94 kilometres (58 mi) west of
Donsak Pier.
The best way to reach Koh Ang Thong
is to take a shared boat or day tour from
either Koh Samui or Koh Pha Ngan. There
are no regular boat services to Ang Thong
The small, scenic path has many challenges
as it crawls up and down the hills and
eventually descends onto Haad Yuan Beach.
From here the path continues north to Haad
Tien and then to Haad Wai Nam Beach.
Mae Haad, Koh Pha Ngan.
Beach Pics:
Others?
Mae Haad, Koh Pha Ngan.
38 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 5
Marine Park so the only way to get there is
to take a day tour, even if staying overnight.
At Donsak Pier you may be able to
board a local boat to the islands.
Getting around: Car rental only
makes sense on the larger islands of Koh
Samui and Koh Pha Ngan while motorbikes
and bicycles are the recommended
way to get around on all islands except Koh
Ang Thong, which has no road network.
Sleep, eat and drink: Koh Samui,
Koh Pha Ngan, and Koh Tao have a
plethora of accommodation, restaurants
and bars while on Koh Ang Thong sleeping
and eating are limited to the National
Parks facilities.
Haad Tien (left) and Haad Yuan (right), Koh Pha Ngan.
Haad Tien, Koh Pha Ngan.
Haad Wai Nam, Koh Pha Ngan.
Haad Yuan Beach, Koh Pha Ngan.
Feature Article | 39

Islands of Thailand
6. EASTERN GULF OF THAILAND
This region is filled with many small
islands and unexplored beaches.
Of all the regions, the Eastern Gulf of
Thailand has the largest number of islands
with accommodation. Most islands are
small, so it is easy to visit several islands in
a short time. This region has a loyal following
amongst travellers who seek tranquility
and rugged, untouched nature.
LOCATION & GATEWAY
On the eastern side of the Gulf of
Thailand, west of Cambodia, this region
stretches from Koh Kood (also written
as Kut) in the south to Koh Chang in the
north. While many of the islands have
accommodation, only Koh Kood, Koh
Mak and Koh Chang have a large variety
of bungalows and resorts that can easily be
booked online.
The other islands either have just one
luxury resort or fairly basic bungalows that
can only be booked by phone. Some islands
are privately owned and offer accommodation
but require a small entrance fee
for day visitors. Others are Government
owned and declared as national parks, and
charge a higher entrance fee, especially for
foreigners.
The main gateway to this region is the
town of Trat where ferries depart from
a few piers south of town. Ferries to the
more southern islands leave from Bang
Bao Pier at the south-western tip of Koh
Chang, as well as from Laem Sok Pier
some 26 kilometres (16 mi) south of Trat.
north, the islands with accommodation are:
Koh Kood, Thailand’s 6th largest
island, easily makes it to the top of the list
of Thailand’s most picturesque islands with
its abundance of coconut-palm-fringed
beaches, crystal clear water, laid-back
atmosphere, hilly terrain, fishing villages,
cascading waterfalls, hiking trails, lush
jungles, river estuaries, and a variety of
beach bungalows and luxury resorts. It is a
long list of features for one island, but Koh
Kood just has it all.
Due to its topography of jungle-clad
Ao Thammachat Pier
Bang Bao Pier
Koh Khlum
Koh Chang
Koh Rang
Koh Wai
Trat (30 km)
Laem Ngop Pier
Koh Kham
Koh Laoya
mountains with massive trees, large parts
of the island remain undeveloped and its
wildlife is thriving. The island has about 12
named beaches, all competing for the top
spot.
Koh Kood’s little satellite island, Koh
Mai Si, is located about one kilometre to
its north-west. Though the island is tiny,
it has an 860-metre-long (2,821 ft) private
airstrip to service the exclusive Soneva
Kiri Resort from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi
International Airport.
Koh Rang, to the west of Koh
Koh Phrao Nok
Koh Ngam
Koh Mak
Koh Rayang Nok
Koh Mai Si Yai
Laem Sok Pier
Koh Kradat
NOTABLE ISLANDS WITH LODGING
Tourism to this region is dominated by
the two largest islands—Koh Chang in the
north and to a lesser extent Koh Kood in
the south. In between are several smaller
islands with either basic or luxurious accommodation.
Travelling from south to
Koh Mai Si
Koh Kood
40 Globerovers · July 2021

Mak, has a National Parks ranger station
situated in a beautiful sheltered bay near
the northeastern part of the island. It is
rumoured that a couple of bungalows will
soon be available for tourists, along with a
few tents and space to pitch your own tent.
The small restaurant at the ranger station
serves reasonable Thai food.
Koh Rayang Nok lies directly southwest
of its uninhabited sister island, Koh
Rayang Nay which is just off the western
end of the much larger Koh Mak. This tiny
island has a beautiful white sand beach at
its northern tip close to a small wooden
bridge that connects the island’s only accommodation,
the Rayang Private Island
Resort, to a rocky outcrop off the beach.
The resort has just a few bungalows near
the beach and on the hillside, as well as a
restaurant and a small bar by the beach.
Koh Mak, the third largest island
in this region after Koh Chang and Koh
Kood, is star-shaped, and measures 7.5 kilometres
(4.7 mi) wide and 5.5. kilometres
(3.4 mi) between its farthest ends. Due to
its flat landscape, it is easy to travel around
on its network of paved paths either by
motorbike or bicycle.
Even though the island is under
private ownership, there are several types
of accommodation throughout the island,
though more concentrated along its western
beaches.
Koh Kham lies immediately west
of the northern arm of Koh Mak and
measures a mere 500 metres (1,640 ft) by
260 metres (853 ft) at its widest point. The
REGION 6
Eastern Gulf of Thailand
beach at the southern end with an eaststretching
sandbank is the location of its
only accommodation, the new exclusive
Ananya Hideaway, a boutique resort which
has been struggling to open due to legal
disputes.
While it may not yet be possible to
stay here, pay a small entrance fee (it is a
privately owned island) and spend a day in
paradise.
Bungalow with a view, Koh Mak.
Typical road, Koh Mak.
Sunset at Klong Mard Village, Koh Kood.
Sunset at Klong Chao Beach, Koh Kood.
Feature Article |
41

Islands of Thailand
North-east of Koh Mak, Koh Kradat
is flat with sparsely planted rubber
trees and a hill at its centre. Measuring 2.6
kilometres (1.6 mi) along its longest end,
it has a long white sand beach on its east
coast. In addition to the lovely beach and
great snorkelling, the island is known for
its herd of deer which allow patient visitors
to pet them. The private island’s only place
to stay is the small Koh Kradat Resort.
Koh Wai, a crescent-shaped island
less than three kilometres (1.9 mi) long,
is a laid-back paradise with no roads, no
jetty, no village, and no electricity other
than the generators run by a couple of
basic resorts along its northern coast. Its
biggest drawcard is postcard-beautiful
beaches with clear waters. Snorkelling
is good along the coral reefs at its north
coast, close to where the most beautiful
beach is located. Other than a few boatloads
of day-trippers, mainly from Koh
Chang, the island can accommodate only a
handful of overnight visitors.
Koh Khlum is a four-kilometre-long
(2.5 mi) island located just a few kilometres
south of the Bang Bao Pier in the
southern part of Koh Chang. The island’s
best beach is at its northeastern tip and the
only accommodation is the Koom Nangphaya
Resort, offering a few bungalows, a
restaurant, and a beach bar.
Koh Mai See Yai is one of the
largest islands in the Koh Chang Marine
National Park though one of the least
frequented due to the absence of outstanding
beaches. However, it is worth visiting
for the fishing village at its southern shore
and a sea cave with a large colony of bats
located at the southeast corner. There are
ramshackle piers at the villages, some
older basic resorts, a few homestays and a
restaurant or two. It is an ideal place for a
glimpse into the lives of the island’s fishing
communities.
Located just over 200 metres (656 ft)
from the Thantawan resort at the southeast
tip of Koh Chang, lies Koh Ngam,
meaning “beautiful island”. The island’s
two rocky peaks bridged by a double-sided
sandbar have gained it the moniker of the
“Koh Phi Phi of the Gulf ”. The matching
crescent-shaped bays on both sides of the
spit are scattered with palm trees. The
island is under ongoing disputes between
Cat and tadpoles, Koh Wai.
Volcanic rocks, Koh Wai.
private owners and the Government’s
National Parks so the only place to stay,
the Analay Resort, has been closed since
late 2019, although the National Parks may
allow camping near the beach. The easiest
way to get here is to rent a kayak from the
Tantawan Resort on Koh Chang.
Just off Koh Chang’s large Salakphet
Bay, past the islands of Phrao Nai and
Phrao Nok, lie three islands referred to as
Inner Laoya (Koh Laoya), Middle Laoya,
and Lower Laoya Islands. Only the largest
Typical bungalow on Koh Wai.
of the three, Koh Laoya has accommodation.
The Laoya Coco Island Resort is on
the eastern side along a white sand beach
with crystal clear water.
Koh Phrao Nok (Koh Sai Khao) lies
at the entrance to Koh Chang’s Salakphet
Bay and has white sandy beaches with
clear water and many coconut trees. Its
only accommodation, the Sai Khao White
Sand Resort, seems to be deserted but it
may come alive again in the near future.
The beautiful island is well worth a visit.
42 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 6
Lonely Beach, Koh Chang.
Bannanai Mangrove Forest, Koh Chang.
Restaurant at Bang Bao village, Koh Chang.
Koh Chang, meaning “elephant
island”, is appropriately named for its
elephant-shaped headland. It is Thailand’s
third-largest island, and has been rapidly
developed over the past few years so it now
offers a mind-boggling number of resorts
and restaurants, mostly along its west
coast. Outside the built-up beaches on
the west coast, hotels and guesthouses are
generally small and family-run. The south
coast offers quieter beaches, and while the
east coast has few beaches, they do offer
spectacular sunrises and tranquility.
Seafood green curry, Koh Chang.
Spicy squid salad, Koh Chang.
Feature Article | 43

Islands of Thailand
THE UNSPOILED BEACHES
This region is blessed with many beautiful
islands and palm-fringed beaches.
Some of the best beaches on islands with
accommodation include:
1) Beaches of Koh Wai
Koh Wai’s almost three-kilometre-long
(1.9 mi) north-east facing shore is alternated
by rocks and palm-fringed white sand
beaches with crystal clear turquoise waters.
The long beach in front of the basic Koh
Wai Paradise Resort is gorgeous, but for
the most beautiful beach head to the far
north-western tip of the island for a little
slice of paradise. The beach here is mostly
composed of tiny broken pieces of coral
so even the small breaking waves remain
clear of murky sediment.
3) Haad Klong Kloi, Koh Chang
Koh Chang is similar to Koh Kood as
the island is also blessed with many beautiful
beaches along its western side. In the
far south of the island, the beaches to the
east and west of Haad Klong Kloi have fine
views over the islands to the south.
4) The beaches of Koh Rang
Koh Rang’s beaches are located on
the east side, with the best located at its
northern and southern ends. The beach at
its southeastern tip is arguably the finest.
A Chinese shrine near the beach protects
the sailors.
5) The Isthmus of Koh Ngam
Often referred to as “Koh Phi Phi of
the Gulf ”, the island has a narrow strip of
land which joins two small island peaks
with north and south-facing palm-fringed
beaches. The beaches here are superb.
The region has a smattering of small islands
without accommodation and pristine
beaches. Among these are Koh Kra to
the north-east of Koh Rang and Koh Bai
Dang to the east of Koh Wai.
2) Ao Phrao, Koh Kood
Koh Kood is known for the beautiful
beaches and clear water on its west side.
The palm-tree lined Ao Phrao in the south,
is the most impressive beach on the island.
Just a few kilometres to the north lie two
more idyllic spots, Ao Jark Bay and Klong
Hin Beach.
Bungalow with a view, Koh Wai.
The beaches of Koh Wai.
44 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 6
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting there: Passenger ferries to
Koh Chang leave from the mainland at
Laem Ngop ferry terminal, Centrepoint
Pier, and Ao Thammachat which also has
car ferries. Ferries to Koh Mak leave from
nearby Krom Luang Pier near Laem Ngop,
and from Laem Sok Pier on the Laem Sok
Peninsula south of Trat.
To reach Koh Kood in the south, board
a ferry at Laem Sok Pier. All other islands
can be reached from Koh Chang, Koh
Mak, and Koh Kood, or even direct from
the nearest mainland pier.
Most of the smaller islands do not have
scheduled ferries and are best reached on
day trips by private long-tail or speedboat.
Experienced kayakers can reach some
islands from southern Koh Chang.
Getting around: The only island in
this region served by a vehicle ferry is Koh
Chang, though a bicycle or motorbike is
the preferred choice for many visitors.
Both Koh Kood and Koh Mak have
decent roads where a bicycle or motorbike
can be rented. All the other islands are best
explored on foot.
Sleep, eat and drink: Koh Chang
has a bewildering array of accommodation,
restaurants and beach bars, with fewer
on Koh Kood and Koh Mak. The other
islands with accommodation have minimal
options, and some resorts may no longer
be open for business due to Covid-19.
Accommodation on the smaller islands
is also less likely to be bookable online
so it’s best to call ahead with the help of a
Thai language speaker.
Ao Phrao, Koh Kood.
Haad Klong Kloi Beach, Koh Chang.
Feature Article | 45

Islands of Thailand
7. NORTHERN GULF OF THAILAND
A popular destination near Bangkok, this
region has many unexplored islands.
The few islands with accommodation
in the Northern Gulf of Thailand, including
the Bay of Bangkok, are often crowded
during holidays and weekends due to their
proximity to Bangkok and Pattaya. The
more pristine islands have limited access
and can only be reached by joining a day
tour or renting a private boat.
LOCATION & GATEWAY
Located on the south-eastern side of
the Bay of Bangkok, at the northern end of
the Gulf of Thailand, this region is popular
among the people of Bangkok as it lies a
mere 100-200 kilometres (62-124 mi) from
the city. Some of the most beautiful islands
in the region are under the control of the
Royal Thai Navy. While overnight stays
are not possible on these islands, a limited
number of day visitors is allowed.
NOTABLE ISLANDS WITH LODGING
For overnight stays, the only options in
this region include Koh Samet east of the
city of Rayong, Koh Larn near Pattaya, and
Koh Sichang near the town of Si Racha,
just 100 kilometres (62 mi) south-east of
Bangkok.
Koh Samet lies along Thailand’s
eastern seaboard just four kilometres (2.5
mi) from the Ban Phe Pier. It offers the
perfect weekend getaway from Bangkok so
is often crowded on weekends and public
holidays, in particular during Songkran or
Thai New Year. Even though it is part of
the Mu Ko Samet National Park, this protected
island has a vibrant nightlife scene
during high season, including the usual
fire juggling on the beaches and late-night
parties.
The island has also fallen victim to
over-development due to its proximity to
Bangkok. Once a backpacker favourite for
its empty beaches and cheap bungalows, it
has now become an expensive destination.
Koh Samet has about 15 beaches along
the 7.3-kilometre-long (4.5 mi) road to its
southernmost tip.
Rent a motorbike or bicycle and follow
every little turnoff to discover another
beach—the farther south you go, the more
peaceful they get. Among the best, from
north to south are Ao Tubtim, Ao Nuan,
Ao Wong Duean, Ao Wai, and Ao Kiew
Nok.
Koh Larn, located to the east of Pattaya,
measures only five kilometres (3.1
mi) from north to south and a mere two
kilometres (1.2 mi) from east to west. It is
renowned for being one of the most beautiful
islands in close proximity to the cities
of Bangkok and Pattaya.
The beaches are impressive with their
fine white sand and clear water. Among
the best beaches here are Tawaen, Nual,
Tien, Ta-Yai, Sang Wan, Samae, and Tong
Lang Beaches. Resorts and restaurants are
scattered all over the island, but are more
concentrated along the north-eastern side.
Koh Sichang
Koh Phai
Koh Larn
Koh Khram Yai
Si Racha (Bangkok 130 km)
Koh Loi / Jarin Pier
Pattaya
Bali Hai Pier
The closest island to Bangkok with
accommodation is Koh Sichang, located
west of Si Racha on the mainland. While the
island is not known for its pristine beaches,
Tham Phang Beach on the west coast is the
island’s biggest and is quite acceptable. The
main reason for visiting Koh Sichang is to
enjoy its island lifestyle and attractions.
Among the many attractions of Koh
Sichang are the Chao Pho Khao Yai Chinese
Shrine with magnificent views over
the island; the massive yellow Buddha
statue at Wat Tham Yai Prik; nearby Tham
Chakrabongse Sangha Monastery with its
caves; and King Chulalongkorn’s Summer
Palace built on the king’s order around
1890 as the summer residence for the
Royal Family.
The main building, the Vimanmek
Mansion, is the largest golden teak wood
building in the world and was built
without using a single nail. In 1901 it was
dismantled and rebuilt in the Dusit Royal
Gardens in Bangkok, but in 2018 it was
again disassembled to replace its deteriorating
wood and metal pilings. Its re-opening
date is unknown.
Rayong
Koh Samae San
Ban Phe Pier
Koh Samet
46 Globerovers · July 2021

THE UNSPOILED BEACHES
The best beaches in this region are on
islands without any accommodation. However,
both Koh Samet and Koh Larn offer
accommodation with some notable beaches:
1) Ao Kiew Na Nok, Koh Samet
Ao Kiew Na Nok (also spelled Kiu or
Kio) is debatably Koh Samet’s most beautiful
beach, though the beach is the private
property of the upscale Paradee Resort.
To enjoy this lovely beach you must
either be a paying guest, or somehow get
past the hotel security.
An extention of the Paradee Resort is
on its sister beach, Ao Kiu Na Nai, on the
western side of the island just across the
island’s main road.
2) Ao Nuan, Koh Samet
Next in line for being the best beach on
Koh Samet is Ao Nuan, a secluded sandy
cove with a few scattered rocks backed by a
wooded hillside. The basic Ao Nuan Bungalows
is the ideal place to hear birdsong
and the drills of cicadas rather than the
noise of beach parties and screaming kids.
At the northern end on a small hill is
Noina’s Kitchen, a delightful little retreat
for Thai food while surveying the beach
and seas.
3) Ao Wai, Koh Samet
Located in the southern half of the island,
Ao Wai is a long powder-white beach
with ample trees offering much-appreciated
shade. A single property, the Samet
Ville Resort, controls the entire bay.
REGION 7
Northern Gulf of Thailand
4) Tien Beach, Koh Larn
Located on the west coast of the island,
Tien is the longest beach on Koh Larn but
when it is crowded, head for the tranquility
of the far ends of the beach. The sand is
pure white and the water turquoise-blue.
5) Ta-Yai Beach, Koh Larn
Tucked away at the northern tip of the
island, Ta-Yai Beach is laid-back with powdery
white sand and clear water, perfect for
watching the sunset.
Ao Kiew Na Nok, Koh Samet.
Haad Tham Phang, Koh Sichang.
Ao Nuan, Koh Samet.
Feature Article |
47

Islands of Thailand
Some of the region’s most pristine
islands have no accommodation and are
therefore not accessible by public ferry, but
can be visited on a day-tour or by hiring
a private boat. Some islands are under the
control of the Royal Thai Navy and are
either completely off-bounds to tourists, or
allow day visitors only in designated areas.
Among these islands are Koh Samae
San, Koh Khram Yai, and Koh Phai.
Koh Samae San is under the control
of the Royal Thai Navy and while day
visitors are allowed, overnight stays are not
permitted.
Koh Khram Yai is an uninhabited
island south of Koh Larn and also occupied
by the Royal Thai Navy. It is popular
among day visitors, in particular with
snorkelling enthusiasts, though some
beaches are off-limits as they are conservation
areas for sea turtles.
Nual Beach, Koh Larn.
Also known as Bamboo Island, Koh
Phai lies directly west of Koh Larn. It is
another pristine uninhabited island that is
guarded by the Royal Thai Navy, but allows
day-trippers to selected areas.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting there: For Koh Sichang,
head to the Jarin Pier in Si Racha for daily
ferries to Tha Lang Pier on the east side
of the island. Koh Larn is easily reachable
from Bali Hai Pier at the southern end of
Pattaya Beach. Boats to Koh Samet leave
from Ban Phe Pier east of Rayong.
Getting around: Of all the islands
in this region, only Koh Samet, Koh Larn
and Koh Sichang have a limited network of
small roads, perfect for a rented motorbike
or bicycle.
Sleep, eat and drink: The only
islands in the region with accommodation
are Koh Samet, Koh Larn and Koh Sichang.
Koh Samet has the largest variety of accommodation
and restaurants, including a
few luxury resorts.
Due to their proximity to Bangkok,
accommodation on these three islands
comes at a premium compared to most
other islands of Thailand.
Koh Samet’s mermaid monument on Ao Hin Khok.
Deciding which of Thailand’s many islands is the perfect match for a dream
holiday can be daunting. With almost 50 islands offering some form of lodging,
and many having several beaches with accommodation—each with their
own appeal—it is hard to choose the right spot.
In this age of increased tourism and ever-encroaching development, it is
becoming more challenging to avoid the crowds and fi nd an unspoiled and
undeveloped island on which to stay.
We can only hope that Thailand will rein in its thirst for the tourist dollar and
control the development of its islands to protect the pristine beaches and
natural attractions for future generations
48 Globerovers · July 2021

Region 7
PARADISE SPOILED
While Thailand is known for its idyllic and picturesque islands, many visitors have encountered unsightly piles of trash on
its beautiful beaches. Even though most resort operators regularly clean the beaches directly in front of their properties, you
can often fi nd plenty of garbage just a few metres beyond. While it is not expected that rubbish that washes up daily, such
as plastic bottles, should be removed on a regular basis, much of the trash has been lying on the beaches for a long time.
Other than some environmentally conscious travellers, it seems like no one takes responsibility to remove the rubbish.
When I come across trash on the beach, I often talk to the nearest resort manager and suggest hiring local school children
or organising energetic travellers for a “clean-up party” at least once a year. The response I generally get is: “We clean
in front of our resort. The rest of the beach is the government’s responsibility”.
It is so disheartening when you think you’ve found a special spot, but it is covered in heaps of rubbish! Perhaps it is time to
stop pointing the fi nger and commit to an annual beach clean-up. That will help Thailand’s islands remain a true paradise.
Ao Yai Ma, Koh Wai.
Sunset Beach, Koh Kradan.
Sabai Beach, Koh Mook.
Ao Wai on Koh Samet. If only all beaches were kept as clean as this one!
Feature Article | 49

Welcome to the
Paradee Resort – Koh Samet
Ao Kiew, Koh Samet, Rayong, Thailand
Situated in tropical gardens that gently cascade down the hillside to the pristine white
sand shores, each of the 40 villas has steep thatched roof design with high vaulted
ceilings to provide over 100 Sqm of luxurious living space.
Drawing influence from Moroccan and Balinese design elements, the villa interiors
blend deeply soothing soft natural hues with rich décor featuring traditional Thai teak
wood, rattan and silk, to perfectly complement the natural beauty of the lush jungle
settings.
Make the most of your unrivalled access to gorgeous tropical beaches and enjoy a wide
range of water sports including snorkeling, windsurfing, or kayaking.
CONTACT US:
Tel: +66 (0)38-644 285 - 7
frontoffice@paradeeresort.com,
www.samedresorts.com/paradee
50 Globerovers · July 2021

Paradise resort
Koh Yao NOI, Thailand
PARADISE KOH YAO NOI
24 Moo 4, Koh Yao Noi
Phang Nga, 82160, Thailand
Phone: +66(0)76 584 450
Fax: +66(0)76 584 499
E-mail: res@paradise-kohyao.com
FOLLOW US:
Facebook: ParadiseKohYao
Instagram: paradisekohyao
www.paradise-kohyao.com
51

10 Beaches on Thailandʼs Islands
best
Finding gorgeous beaches on Thailand’s many islands is easy. But finding the most idyllic, tranquil, and unspoiled beaches
where you can wander alone and swim in crystal clear turquoise waters, is becoming more challenging. We searched many
of Thailand’s islands to find beaches to satisfy even the most discerning intrepid beach lovers. These beaches have their
good and bad times—so visit during the right season, and at the right time of the day, and you will be in paradise!
1
Nui Beach
Koh Phi Phi Don
Nestled in a tiny cove at Nui Bay in the north-west of Koh
Phi Phi Don, this small powder-soft beach is framed by tall
limestone karsts and several impressive, rocky islands. The
water is crystal clear and perfect for snorkelling from the
beach and around the oddly-shaped Camel Rocks.
This beach is a secluded tropical paradise. It is a magical
and spectacularly beautiful place where you can sit and relax
for hours, and not be disturbed by another soul. Once you
get here, it becomes almost impossible to leave. Hiking back
through the jungle to Tonsai village, the bustling heart of Koh
Phi Phi, is like returning from a dream.
2
Mai Ngam Beach
Koh Surin
3
North-western Beach
Koh Wai
4
Sandbank Beach
Koh Nang Yuan
Mai Ngam Beach on remote Koh Surin
Nuea is one of only two beaches in the
idyllic Surin Archipelago where the Thai
National Parks allow camping. This
beach will easily lure you to rent or pitch
your own tent right on the sand and stay
for as long as you possibly can.
Snorkelling in this large bay of shallow
emerald waters with its rich coral gardens
is phenomenal. If that is not enough, take
a boat to several other snorkelling spots
in the area. Most other beaches here are
protected turtle-breeding habitats.
52 Globerovers · July 2021
Koh Wai remains a little undiscovered
paradise south of Koh Chang in the Gulf of
Thailand. With only a few basic bungalows
and no electricity other than resort generators,
it attracts just a few island enthusiasts
who know about this secret island.
Its north-facing shore is alternated by
rocks and palm-fringed white sand beaches
with crystal clear turquoise waters. For
the island’s best beach, head to the far
north-western tip of the island. Here, tiny
pieces of broken coral and coarse sand
ensure that the water is free of sediment.
While Koh Tao’s tiny satellite island, Koh
Nang Yuan, is no longer the undiscovered
and undeveloped gem it was 30 years
ago, the brilliant white beaches on both
sides of its sandbar lie along clear aquamarine
waters. Combine the beaches and
water with the picturesque rock setting and
it creates the perfect postcard scene.
For a change from enjoying the beach and
its enticing tropical waters, take the short
but exhilarating hike on a tiny footpath up
to the top of the big boulders for stunning
panoramic views over the island.

5
Sabai Beach
Koh Mook
6
Golden Buddha Beach
Koh Phra Thong
7
School Beach
Koh Bulon Leh
Koh Mook offers the ideal mix of tourist
facilities, local villages and immaculate
natural attractions. The island has great
hiking trails which lead to hidden coves
with spectacular beaches such as Sabai
Beach. While a long-tail boat can easily
reach this beach, it is a challenging and
much-rewarded adventure to arrive via the
lush jungle trail while warding off the bugs.
Flanked by impressive limestone cliffs, this
is one of the most scenic beach locations
in the region. The sand is slightly coarse
and the water is brilliantly clear.
The savannah-like Koh Phra Thong
remains an unfamiliar island to locals and
foreigners alike. With limited roads and
leisure industry infrastructure, it is the
perfect retreat for island enthusiasts who
appreciate natural attractions untouched
by development and mass tourism.
While the water is not the clearest in
the region, the only interruption to your
solitude on the 10-kilometre-long (6.2 mi)
tranquil and peaceful beach is the curiosity
of the fast-running large yellow ghost
crabs.
Off-the-radar to most travellers, tiny Koh
Bulon Leh is home to a small community
of Moken people, and one of the region’s
most beautiful beaches.
While the brilliant white sand island with
aquamarine water is not very long, its
palm tree-lined beach makes it postcard
beautiful. Stay at one of the two humble
resorts along the beach for a surreal
tropical island experience. A school located
along the beach must be one of the
most scenic classrooms on earth in which
to learn your ABC’s.
8
West Coast Beaches
Koh Adang
9
Tung Yaka Beach
Koh Libong
10
Loh Moo Dee Beach
Koh Phi Phi
Koh Adang, the second biggest island
within the Tarutao Archipelago, is one
of the largest unspoiled and untouched
islands in Thailand. With only one resort
and a few tents offered by the National
Parks, the island remains pristine.
Adang offers several beaches along its
west coast with clear water and an abundance
of offshore coral reefs. There are
no roads on the island so the only way to
reach its beaches is to charter a long-tail
boat either from the island’s resort in the
south, or from nearby Koh Lipe.
While Koh Libong is one of the most ideal
places to experience the lives of the fi shing
communities, the island also offers
great beaches. Tourism remains a minuscule
contributor to the local economy, so
even the most beautiful beaches remain
free of resorts and noisy tourists.
Known for its small population of rare
dugongs, beach rock formations, and
spectacular caves, the broad expanse of
golden Tung Yaka Beach fringed by palm
trees is as close to complete serenity as
you can get.
Koh Phi Phi is known for its many beautiful
beaches, hence its popularity. Fortunately
it is not that diffi cult to escape to
the lesser visited beaches.
Located at the southeastern tip of Koh Phi
Phi Don lies Loh Moo Dee Beach. This
long, wide beach is fringed by palm trees
and lapped by warm, clear emerald waters.
The beach has no accommodation,
but a rustic restaurant with a bar located
near the centre of the beach provides cold
fresh coconuts, beer, and Thai snacks.
The only crowds here are the monkeys.
Feature Article | 53

Wang Sai Resort
Mae Haad, Koh pha ngan, surat thani, THAILAND
A COSY BEACH RESORT WITH A BEAUTIFUL POOL SET IN A LUSH TROPICAL GARDEN
Wang Sai Resort, located at the northern end of Koh Pha Ngan, has intimate accommodation by the beach
and pool as well as mountainside bungalows.
Nestled under shady trees, the resort sits on the central section of the wide Mae Haad beach. The sand isthmus
of the small island of Koh Mah is just a short stroll away. Wangsai Water Fall is a 10-minute walk from the resort.
Each bungalow has a veranda and ensuite bathroom with shower facilities. Selected rooms come with air
conditioning and fridge.
CONTACTS
Wang Sai Resort
Tel: +66 (0) 77 374238 / +66 (0) 77 374313
wangsaikohma@live.com
Facebook:
@wangsairesortkohphangan
54 Globerovers · July 2021

Le Dugong Libong
Beach Resort
Le Dugong Libong Beach Resort is located on the stunning west coast of Koh Libong, Thailand.
This eco-friendly seafront sanctuary offers cosy beach huts dotted along the beach.
The sea breeze and soothing sound of the waves are always with you as you relax on your private veranda or dine
at the beachfront restaurant and bar. A relaxing retreat where you can switch off and be at one with nature.
Le Dugong Libong Beach Resort
Haad Lang Kao, Koh Libong
Tel: +66 (0) 087 475 8310
www.ledugong.com
LINE ID: ledugong
Facebook: ledugongresort
info@ledugong.com / reservation@ledugong.com
55

Photo Essay
Quito, Ecuador
Villa de San Francisco de Quito, better known as
Quito, is the capital of the Republic of Ecuador, a
country in north-western South America. Ecuador is
one of the most environmentally diverse countries in the world
and includes the Galápagos Islands in the Pacific Ocean, large
sections of the Amazon rainforest known as Ecuadorʼs El Oriente,
and parts of the mighty Andes Mountains ranging here in height
from 1,500 metres (4,921 ft) to 6,310 metres (20,701 ft).
When the Spaniards colonised the land they called it El Ecuador,
or “The Equator”, a fitting name as the country lies smack on
the earthʼs equator. Just a short distance north of Quito is Ciudad
Mitad del Mundo or “Middle of the World City” where a monument
was built to mark the imaginary line where the equator
divides the planet into north and south.
Quito is located in a narrow valley in the Andean Highlands in
the north-central part of the country, spread along the lower
slopes of the dormant Pichincha Volcano and bordered by the
Panecillo and Itchimbia hills.
At an elevation of 2,850 metres (9,350 ft), Quito is the worldʼs
56 Globerovers · July 2021

Quito
Ecuador
San Francisco de Quito is the capital of Ecuador, and at 2,850 metres (9,350 ft) above sea
level, it is the second highest capital in the world. The city and its surroundings offer a
wealth of attractions to explore.
Words and Photography by Peter Steyn
second-highest capital city (after Boliviaʼs La Paz); is the capital
city closest to the equator; and is one of the oldest capitals in
South America.
While many travellers visit Quito on a quick stopover on their way
to the Galápagos Islands, the El Oriente and other parts of Ecuador,
the city and its surroundings are well worth a few daysʼ stay.
A not-to-be-missed experience outside Quito is the Otavalo
market which is located 1.5 to 2 hours by bus north-east of the
city. The market is renowned for its wide variety of textiles and
local crafts.
Other day trips from Quito include Cotopaxi, the glacier-capped
active volcano and the second-highest point in Ecuador; Laguna
Quilotoa Crater; and Lagunas de Mojanda just south of Otavalo.
The summit of Fuya Fuya (4,263 m / 13,986 ft) on the west side
of Lagunas de Mojanda offers spectacular views of the lakes
below and the many surrounding volcanoes.
Photo Essay | 57

Quito — Ecuador
58 Globerovers · July 2021

Panoramic Mountain Views
In a city surrounded by mountains, there are several
miradors (viewpoints) in the city and along the higher
outskirts.
For the best panoramic views, get on board the Quito
TelefériQo, a gondola lift that takes twenty minutes from
the edge of the city centre up the eastern slope of Pichincha
Volcano to the Cruz Loma lookout. It is one of the
highest aerial lifts in the world, rising from 3,117 metres
(10,226 ft) to 3,945 metres (12,943 ft).
For even better views, take a 10-kilometre (6.2 mi)
round-trip hike on the high altitude trail to the summit of
a stratovolcano, Rucu Pichincha (4,698 m / 15,413 ft) that
will take about 4 to 5 hours to complete.
Another viewpoint is El Panecillo, a 200-metre-high
(656 ft) hill of volcanic origin that pops up right from the
middle of the city just three kilometres south of Quito’s
Basilica. El Panecillo translates to “The Small Bread Loaf”
and separates Quito’s northern and southern sections. Its
peak is at an elevation of 3,016 metres (9,895 ft) and is
home to a 45-metre-tall (148 ft) stone statue called “Virgin
of El Panecillo”. Constructed of seven thousand pieces of
aluminium, the statue was inaugurated on March 28, 1976.
On clear days, it is possible to see many of the region’s
volcanoes from here.
Photo Essay | 59

Quito — Ecuador
Founded by the Spanish in 1534 on the ruins of an
ancient Inca city, Quito’s well-preserved old town
was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1978. It
remains the best-preserved and least altered historic centre
in Latin America and has retained much of its colonial
atmosphere.
Known as El Centro Historico, it is packed with interesting
alleys, fountains, squares, and Spaniard-built churches
and monasteries, including the largest neo-Gothic church
in all of the Americas, La Basílica del Voto Nacional —
Quito’s Basilica.
The spires of its many churches rear up against the
dramatic backdrop of volcanoes that surround the Quito
Basin. The city is known for its quaint squares, fountains,
gardens, steep narrow streets, and balconied houses with
iron-grilled doorways.
The city offers remarkable examples of the Baroque
School of Quito (Escuela Quitena) architecture that combines
indigenous and European artistic styles. The San
Francisco and Santo Domingo monasteries as well as La
Compañía Church and Jesuit College have elaborate interiors
which are perfect examples of this architecture—a
fusion of Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and indigenous
art.
A great spot for old town views is from the towers of
Quito’s Basílica. Climb the towers for a spectacular aerial
vista of the city.
Quito’s Old Town
60 Globerovers · July 2021

Photo Essay | 61

Quito — Ecuador
62 Globerovers · July 2021

Photo Essay | 63

Quito — Ecuador
64 Globerovers · July 2021

Located in the centre of Quito, the La Basílica del
Voto Nacional is the largest neo-Gothic church in
all of the Americas. Modelled on France’s Notre-Dame de
Paris, construction began in 1892, it was blessed by Pope
John Paul II in 1985, then consecrated and inaugurated in
1988.
The Basilica
After all these years, it remains technically unfi nished
for a very good reason. According to local legend, once
the Basilica is completed, it will be the end of the world.
So, may it remain unfi nished for a long time to come!
Visitors are permitted inside this concrete marvel
with its fabulous all-around stained-glass windows. The
small side chapel, La Capilla de Sacramento, features an
intricate mosaic tile fl oor, painted walls, columns and a
beautiful high altar of Saint Mary.
While the architecture is impressive, the main reason to
visit is for the adventurous climb of 90 metres (295 ft) to the
top of the towers. Alternatively, pay to take the elevators
though they are not always operational. Note that the fi nal
“ladders” are very narrow and quite steep, but the brave
and determined who make it to the top are rewarded with
panoramic views of Quito and its surroundings.
The Basilica’s exterior is famous for its mystical gargoyles—carved
grotesques (mythical fi gures) with a spout
designed to convey water from the roof away from the side
of the building. Gothic churches are often defi ned by their
gargoyles, and at Quito’s Basilica, the mythical fi gures
have been substituted with several native Ecuadorian
animals.
As you cross the bridge to enter the towers, look for
the carved Andean condors. The stonework is splendid
and the condors appear ready to fl y away.
Photo Essay | 65

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66 Globerovers · July 2021

67

Article
Sichuan, China
Giant Panda, Chengdu
A resident of the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda
Breeding facilities enjoys fresh bamboo throughout the day.
68 Globerovers · July 2021

China’s Food and Panda Paradise:
Mouth-Watering and Heart-Warming
Sichuan
Words by Keith Lyons
Photography by Peter Steyn
Sichuan Province in China’s south-west is
isolated from the rest of the Middle Kingdom
by mountain ranges, with the fertile
and densely-populated Red Basin providing something
distinctly different for the intrepid traveller.
Sichuan’s long history and culture are evoked
in teahouses, temples and lantern-lit streets found
around easy-going Chengdu, Sichuan’s capital and
home to China’s unique spicy cuisine and another
national treasure: giant pandas. A serene Buddha
statue carved into a cliff
face is close enough to
Chengdu for a day trip,
while the sacred Buddhist
mountain of Emei
Shan offers cardio exercise and enlightenment.
Adorably cute pandas and super-spicy food are the
two things that Sichuan is best known for worldwide.
Maybe a new Sichuan restaurant has opened up
near you—Sichuan food is both literally and figuratively
hot right now. With its hot red chillies and
mouth-numbing Szechuan peppercorns powering the
iconic Sichuan hotpot, Sichuan cuisine is just being
“discovered” around the globe.
Or perhaps you’ve had the chance to see a panda
for yourself, as several dozen zoos around the world
have the furry creature on display. Giant pandas were
given away by the Chinese government as tokens of
friendship and goodwill, as part of its “Panda Diplomacy”.
inland province. In 2010 the mega-city of Chengdu
was the second city in the world to be designated a
City of Gastronomy by UNESCO.
Sichuan is larger than Germany or California, and
its population is over 87 million. Chengdu is home to
some 16 million souls—plus 120 giant pandas, found
at the Chengdu Panda Breeding Centre.
The newly-expanded Shuangliu International,
China’s fourth-busiest airport, is connected to the
“I love the masochistic aspect of eating seething,
real Sichuan food in Sichuan Province.”
So while you may be able to have an authentic
Sichuan encounter at a Chinese restaurant bearing the
characters 四 川 or a zoological garden elsewhere, let
it serve as an enticement to visit this vast and diverse
~ Anthony Bourdain ~
world with over 70 direct
routes internationally.
When international
leisure travel resumes,
expect to be able to fly
direct to Chengdu or nearby Chongqing from many
cities around the world.
I’ve been visiting Chengdu for the last 25 years,
and have to admit, the city still has a magnetic pull.
My trips invariably involve visiting the Chengdu
Panda Breeding Centre, the sublime Wenshu temple, a
teahouse where opera might be performed, and enjoying
many unforgettable meals.
There is something special about Sichuan, its
land-locked location with the Yangtze River flowing
through, and in the west, the Tibetan plateau climbing
to the foothills of the Himalayas.
Chengdu has something of a reputation for its
climate, in particular, its fog, humidity and cloudy sunless
days. It is mild and humid all year round, with a
warm spring, a long, sultry (and wet) summer, a rainy
autumn and cold, foggy winter.
But don’t let the weather put you off visiting this
wonderful destination.
Contributed Article | 69

Sichuan Province, China
CHENGDU CITY
The capital of Sichuan Province is a
major industrial and cultural centre.
Chengdu is a large, busy sprawling
metropolis, yet you can find
hidden charms and a laid-back vibe amid
the fast-growing city, as well as reminders
about China’s history and its ancient
culture. The city has an extensive 13-line
subway and light rail network, making it
easy to get around cheaply and quickly.
Don’t be afraid to try the street food
in Chengdu. After all, in 2010 Chengdu
became the second city in the world to be
designated a UNESCO City of Gastronomy.
Jinli Street ( 锦 里 古 街 )
Just east of Wu Hou temple is the
bustling pedestrian street of Jinli, Sichuan’s
oldest commercial street dating back 1,800
years. Lit with traditional lanterns at night,
the street and its network of alleyways are
packed with snack and gift vendors, as well
as tourists.
For visitors, there are shadow puppet
shows as well as Sichuan opera performances
to highlight Sichuan’s folk customs.
The street is the place to buy last-minute
souvenirs from pandas to paper cuts, or to
try noodle dishes or Sichuan finger food.
Du Fu Cottage ( 杜 甫 草 堂 )
The humble home of one of the most
famous Tang Dynasty poets is open to
visitors in the west of Chengdu. Du Fu’s
simple straw cottage is serenely set on
the bank of Silk-Washing Street among
gardens, pavilions, canals and ponds, a
harmonious combination of natural and
man-made landscapes.
Surrounded by pines and bamboos, the
period-furnished wood and brick home
is where the poet penned several hundred
poems, many inspired by the picturesque
beauty of the water, flowers, trees, and light.
Wu Hou Temple ( 武 侯 祠 )
Impressive in size, and rich in history,
Wu Hou Temple is a museum and shrine
commemorating one of the Three Kingdom
regimes from 221-263 AD. Located in
south-west Chengdu, this popular attraction
has tall memorial statues, stone tablets
with calligraphy inscriptions and a very
photogenic red curving wall flanked by
bamboo.
For the Chinese, the shrine is a tribute
to Zhuge Liang, a militarist, diplomat,
and astronomer, who served emperor Liu
Bei. Look for the gilded three-metre tall
sitting statue of Liu Bei in his temple, and
the nearby shrine to Zhuge Liang, the
mathematical and mechanical genius who
has been compared to Sun Tzu, author
of The Art of War. Zhuge Liang is said to
have had supernatural powers, and often
features in Chinese plays and stories.
You could easily spend a couple of
hours at Wu Hou Temple, and then for
something completely different, go south
to the Tibetan enclave, dubbed Little
Lhasa. There you can buy Tibetan prayer
flags and singing bowls, or try a yak-milk
cappuccino at a café packed with redrobed
monks and students from eastern
Sichuan.
Gate, Wu Hou Temple, Chengdu.
Jinli Street, Chengdu.
Gate at Wu Hou Temple area, Chengdu.
Grounds of Du Fu Cottage, Chengdu.
70 Globerovers · July 2021

This is an ideal place to pause a while,
perhaps savour a cup of green tea, or linger
in the orchid garden. Du Fu lived in turbulent
times—experiencing war, famine,
separation from his family and extreme
cold—and considered himself a failure, yet
he is regarded as one of the finest classical
Chinese poets, producing simple poems
about common experiences that others
could relate to.
Chinese Opera at a Teahouse
Sichuan opera is one of China’s oldest
and most popular art forms, blending
costumes, music, dance and stories.
The most well-known venue to experience
an operatic performance and art show
is the Shufengyayun Sichuan Opera House
inside the Chengdu Culture Park, which
has been entertaining guests from abroad
for over 20 years with its trademark “facechanging”
masks, acrobatics, comedy, and
fire-breathing finale. If you arrive early
before the 8:00 PM start you can see how
performers put on costumes and make-up.
Sichuan hotpot, as well as local green
tea, can be tried before the performance
at the ancient and elegant Shunxing Old
Teahouse ( 顺 兴 老 茶 馆 ) in the Shawan
International Conference and Exhibition
Center. A museum tells the stories of old
Chengdu, with the cultural performances
including face-changing opera, fire-spitting,
and tea-pouring feats.
Maintaining traditional Sichuan opera
“chuanju”, and the role of a teahouse for
entertainment and storytelling, is Yuelai
Teahouse ( 川 剧 / 悦 来 茶 园 ), near Jinjiang
Theatre behind Wangfujing Shopping
Center, which hosts opera on Saturday
afternoons. Having a guide translate will
help you understand the classical plot and
background, and feel more comfortable in
the informal teahouse setting, but you’ll
get the gist of the story—and its humour—
as the art form transcends language and
culture.
Chengdu
sichuan, china
Teahouses
Teahouses are a unique feature of
Chengdu, often found tucked away in
parks or walled compounds. More than
just venues for refreshment with a bottomless
cup of tea for a dollar or two, teahouses
are hubs for meetings, romance, gossip,
chess, mahjong, performances and even
the place to have your ears cleaned.
Among the best is Heming, in People’s
Park, which turns 100 in 2023, where tea
costs ¥10-30 and is served with a thermos
flask of hot water, which can be refilled as
many times as you like.
Photos on this page: Chinese Opera at a Chengdu Teahouse.
Contributed Article | 71

Sichuan Province, China
Wenshu Yuan Monastery ( 文 殊 院 )
Of all the holy places in Sichuan,
Wenshu monastery would have to rate as
the most atmospheric. Easily accessible
via Metro Line 1 or taxi just north-east of
the city centre, the complex is regarded
as the best-preserved Buddhist temple in
Chengdu.
With its grand wood architecture,
historic art and ancient relics, there is
much to take in, from giant bells and
ginkgo trees to peace towers and pilgrims.
Adding to the ambience are groups of
locals burning incense, and monks playing
badminton.
There are relaxing teahouses in the extensive
grounds, and the renowned Xiangzhai
Restaurant serves fake meat such as
bear’s paws (made with tofu and gluten).
Wenshu Yuan Monastery, Chengdu.
Qintai Road 琴 台 路
Just west of the central city, near Du
Fu’s cottage and People’s Park, Qintai Road
is lined with merchant houses built in
Ming and Qing Dynasty style.
Commemorating a 2,000-year-old love
story of a young wealthy widow and a poor
scholar, the street also features a 920-metre-long
(3,018 ft) brick path with carvings
depicting life in the Han dynasty (206
BC-220 AD). With shops and teahouses,
Qintai Road is best visited at night when
lanterns and lights illuminate the street.
Wenshu Yuan Monastery, Chengdu.
Qintai Road, Chengdu.
Qintai Road, Chengdu.
72 Globerovers · July 2021

Sichuan Food ( 四 川 )
Sichuan cuisine has a reputation for
being fiery hot and also mouth-numbing,
but there is more to local dishes than red
chilli peppers and the citrus-tingly Sichuan
pepper.
The most famous dish is hotpot, ideal
to drive away the humidity of Chengdu,
and best tried with others—and beer.
Combining cubed chicken, peanuts and
chillies, Kung Pao chicken ( 宫 保 鸡 丁 ) is
a popular dish, though not as intense as
the Sichuan signature Mapo tofu (literally
pock-marked grandmother’s tofu).
For the tastiest “xiao chi” or snack,
Dan Dan Noodles can be prepared less
spicy—similarly, there are usually vegetarian
options available, particularly at Buddhist
restaurants. Chengdu also has some
delicious Muslim noodle eateries—look for
the green facade.
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74 Globerovers · July 2021

The Jinli Pedestrian Street area, Chengdu.
Contributed Article | 75

Sichuan Province, China
GIANT PANDAS ( 大 熊 猫 )
Giant pandas can be found in the provinces
of Sichuan, Shaanxi and Gansu.
No trip to Chengdu is complete
without visiting its star attraction,
the Chengdu Research Base of Giant
Panda Breeding ( 成 都 大 熊 猫 繁 育 研 究
基 地 ), not to be confused with the remote
biosphere reserve at Wolong, the field
centre at Dujiangyan set up after a 2008
earthquake (where animals in the Panda
Valley are being trained for release into the
wild), or the small Bifengxia Panda Centre.
Only a thousand of these endangered
animals remain in the wild, with the
Chengdu Panda Base offering the best
chance for visitors to see in real life these
iconic creatures—there are at least 50
pandas on-site. But there is more than just
marvelling at some cute cubs playing, or
admiring furry black and white bears dozing
in the shade.
Founded in 1987 with half a dozen
starving rescued pandas, the centre combines
research, conservation, education
and tourism, and has successfully bred
nearly 300 pandas.
Set aside half a day to do a deep dive
into the world of pandas, the big eaters yet
slow breeders of the animal kingdom. The
adults can spend much of their time eating
bamboo, consuming up to 12 kilograms
a day. However, if you visit in the middle
of the day, you might only witness pandas
snoozing.
Chengdu’s weather is often cloudy or
fogging, but on your panda day, plan on
being at the park when the gates open at
7:30 AM.
A taxi is the best way to get to the base,
which is 10 km (6 mi) north of Chengdu,
though you could take subway Metro Line
3, to Panda Avenue Station ( 熊 猫 大 道
站 ), and from there take a taxi or bus a few
kilometres to the park entrance. En route,
expect to hear the word “dah-sshyongmaow”—literally
large bear cats.
English-speaking tour guides (¥100 per
person) are available by the entrance, and
there are tour buses (¥10) gliding around
between the nursery rooms, panda villas,
the kitchen and red panda nursery, though
you could easily navigate around using
76 Globerovers · July 2021

PANDAS
sichuan, china
the maps and signposts. Just follow the
tour guides and visitors who are jogging
towards the giant panda enclosures.
At these semi-open areas, you can
see pandas eating, drinking, resting and
playing, with playground equipment,
climbing apparatus, “enrichment toys” and
human assistants never far away at the cub
“kindergartens”. Feeding time is 8:30 AM
to 10:00 AM.
Expect some crowds around the enclosures
with the most activity, and more jostling
throngs by the nursery rooms, where
female pandas nurse their cubs—usually
on display around December.
Panda babies are born in August and
September and can be seen at the Moonlight
and Sunshine Nurseries.
The cooler months are when pandas
are more likely to play outside, but if you
visit in summer, check the enclosures and
delivery houses for pandas avoiding the
heat indoors.
Ideally visit on a weekday, outside
national holidays.
Up until recently visitors could hold a
panda cub, having paid ¥1,200 (US$180)
and donned protective PPE, but due to the
risk of contamination, this experience is
no longer available.
While the base is a research centre
and not a zoo, some behaviour by Chinese
tourists may seem inappropriate.
When you’ve used up all the memory
on your phone or camera, take time to find
the red panda area, where these raccoonlike
creatures with long tails also share the
giant pandas’ love of bamboo and naps.
Mainly tree-dwelling, and more closely
related to weasels and skunks, agile red
pandas are most active at dawn and dusk.
The base features wild bamboo forests
as well as ornamental plants, and manmade
features to replicate the natural
habitat of the pandas.
But it is not just pandas inhabiting the
67-hectare (165 acres) area, with black
swans, peacocks, birds, butterflies and koi
carp found throughout the park.
Back towards the gift shop, there are
information centres and museums which
cover panda conservation and husbandry,
as well as the history of pandas and efforts
to introduce pandas back into the wild.
Contributed Article | 77

Sichuan Province, China
EMEI SHAN ( 峨 眉 山 )
Emei Shan is a cool and misty sacred
Buddhist Mountain south of Chengdu.
Rising up on the western rim of the
Sichuan Basin, Mt Emei is an important
place in the establishment of Buddhism
in the Middle Kingdom from India.
The mountain derives its names from two
facing peaks that look like the delicate
eyebrows of a Chinese classic beauty, but
to appreciate Emei you need to put aside
any notions of religion, communism or
alpine solitude.
Towering over 3,000 metres (9,842 ft)
into the misty clouds, it is the highest and
westernmost of the four sacred Buddhist
mountains of China. The UNESCO World
Heritage area is also a significant tourist
hotspot, attracting millions of domestic
sightseers, many on group tours for the
mountain sunrise views.
Visitors can expect to witness a sea of
clouds from near the summit, as well as
crowds of tourists, who can easily access
the mountain peaks via bus, cable car and
monorail. Lazy guests can even be carried
up by two porters on a bamboo sedan
chair. Merchants flog their wares, with
prices increasing for snacks and water the
further you venture up the mountain.
Despite the inconveniences—and the
thieving monkeys at Qingyin Pavilion—
there are sublime experiences away from
megaphones and hawkers.
With over 60 kilometres (37 mi) of
trails, hardy travellers can hike through
lush forest from the foot of the mountain
to the top over two days, along stone paths
and stairs, pausing to contemplate waterfalls,
or admire the surreal views, which
are best on the left side of the mountain.
Along the way, ancient monasteries
provide spiritual as well as material sustenance,
with basic facilities for those who
follow in the steps of the Taoist retreatants
and Buddhist pilgrims who have laboured
up the mountain for 2,000 years or more.
There are dozens of monasteries on the
mountain, some clinging precariously to
the rugged terrain. The forests range from
sub-tropical to sub-alpine, with some trees
more than a thousand years old, and lots of
bamboo on the lower slopes. Temperatures
can vary by 20°C, meaning you can be
both sweating and freezing within hours.
The first Buddhist temple in China was
built in the 1st century, with Buddhism’s
message of non-attachment and compassion
spreading across to coastal China and
beyond. It is thought the Chinese martial
art Kung Fu evolved in the same way.
Emei’s largest temple Fuhisi, now a
nunnery, was once associated with a martial
arts master, but now the Crouching Tiger
monastery is best known for its bronze
78 Globerovers · July 2021

pagoda with thousands of Buddha images.
Of the eight main temples on the
mountain, the oldest survivor is Wannian
( 万 年 寺 ), or Longevity temple, which
features an eight-metre-high bronze
Buddha statue and a beam-less brick hall
(similar in style to architecture of India
and Myanmar), and is famous for its tea
produced behind the temple, served by
monks to high-ranking dignitaries as well
as pilgrims.
A trip to the holy mountain to see the
natural wonders and historic Buddhist
sites, whether it be a three-day exploration
or a one-day highlights tour, can be
undertaken any time of year.
Over winter, however, snow can blanket
the peaks, meaning the best time to
visit is May to October, unless you fancy
winter skiing or want to soak in the mineral
hot spring resorts near Baoguosi.
The highest concentration of Buddhist
relics and the most amazing views are
found at the top around Jinding Si.
One spectacle sometimes seen on the
cloud-shrouded mountain at Jinding is the
Buddha’s light, scientifically called a “glory”,
when a saint’s concentric halo appears
around your shadow in the mist or clouds.
Records of this optical phenomenon date
back to the founding of the first Buddhist
temple, and it was associated with obtaining
personal enlightenment. It is believed
that some monks, on witnessing their own
enlightenment, would then jump off a
nearby clifftop.
Most hikers carry a wooden stick for
the strenuous uphill and downhill, to
avoid falling, and to ward off the menacing
monkeys.
There are also plans to provide another
kind of glowing warm-feeling-all-over
EMEI SHAN
sichuan, china
spiritual experience: in 2021 it was announced
that Pernod Ricard will open a
US$150 million malt whisky distillery.
Emei Shan is only 150 kilometres (94
mi) south of Chengdu and is now connected
by high-speed train, with most visitors
combining the Buddhist mountain with
the nearby giant Buddha at Leshan.
Emeishan town, with new hotels such
as Le Méridien Emei Mountain Resort,
is the gateway to the start of the trail at
Baoguo.
Photos on these pages: At the top of Emei Shan Mountain.
Contributed Article | 79

Sichuan Province, China
Baishui Qiufeng (Wannian Temple), Emei Shan.
Baishui Qiufeng (Wannian Temple), Emei Shan.
80 Globerovers · July 2021

Baishui Qiufeng (Wannian Temple), Emei Shan.
TRAVEL TIPS
Wannian Temple, Emei Shan.
If you are not already in China but want to
just visit Sichuan on your way to another
country, you could get a 144-hour Transit
Free Visa at the airport which allows you to
explore Chengdu, as well as Leshan, Emei,
and nine other places for up to six days.
• Avoid travelling to Chengdu—or
China—during the busy holiday
periods: Spring Festival in January or
February, the first week of May, and the
first week of October, as these are times
when everyone in China is on the move,
transport is booked out, attractions are
packed, and accommodation is scarce
and over-priced.
• March to June is considered a good
time to visit, along with September to
November, avoiding muggy, rainy July
and August. Winter days, once the fog
lifts, can be clear and dry.
• When buying from markets, negotiate
and bargain, as if there is no fixed
price, you can probably get an item for
one-third the initial asking price. Buy an
umbrella when it isn’t raining to enjoy
the best price.
• Use the toilets in higher-end hotels if
you must, but don’t patronise Western
chain cafes when there are much better
local options.
• Use the taxi app Didi to arrange your
ride, and the website trip.com to book
your flights and accommodation.
• In rush hour, the Metro is much faster
to get across Chengdu.
• If you buy a ticket to Dufu’s cottage,
or Wuhou Temple, you can take a free
shuttle to some other tourist spots.
• Don’t be surprised if your mouth feels
numb after eating some local food,
which contains Sichuan peppercorn.
You aren’t being poisoned. You don’t
need to call the police or your embassy,
as some visitors have done. For no spice,
ask for ‘bu-la’, or for a little bit of spice,
‘wei-la’.
• In China you need a VPN to access
some emails and sites such as Google,
Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
• As China can be a very foreign place
to first-time visitors, it is worth using
a guide and a local travel agency
exclusively focused on overseas guests
to south-west China, such as Jay at Yak-
Panda (en.yakpanda.com, pandayak@
hotmail.com) or Apple at Lijiang Guides
(lijiangtravel.info, hanmeilichina@
yahoo.com)
Contributed Article | 81

Sichuan Province, China
LESHAN GIANT BUDDHA ( 樂 山 大 佛 )
Carved out of a hillside, the Leshan
Giant Buddha is an 8th century giant.
Seeing is believing at Leshan, where
the world’s largest stone Buddha
has been carved into a cliff face beside
rivers that merge into the mighty Yangtze
River. The graceful sculpture of sitting
Maitreya, the “future Buddha”, was built
over 1,200 years ago by Chinese monk
Haitong hoping to save lives by pacifying
the turbulent currents of the Min and
Dadu rivers for vessels.
The two joining rivers flow below the
Buddha’s feet, while the calm, relaxed
figure rests his hands upon his knees,
heavy-lidded eyes gazing across the waters
towards the sacred Mount Emei, 40 kilometres
(25 mi) to the east.
Viewable from the opposite shore and
on the water, the 71-metre high (233 ft)
statue is an impressive engineering feat,
but part of Leshan’s Giant Buddha appeal is
that visitors can get up close and personal
with the solemn statue.
Stairways, walkways and viewing
platforms give an appreciation of the scale
of the project, which took nearly a century
to complete. The head is 14 metres (46 ft)
tall, with over a thousand spiralled curls
embedded in the Buddha’s hair, and two
people can be accommodated inside each
ear. From kneecap to instep is 28 metres
(92 ft), and it is said 100 monks can sit on
each foot, with even the smallest toenail
big enough to hold a person.
An elaborate drainage system of hidden
gutters and channels on the head, ears,
and chest keep the statue from eroding,
with a drain on the abdomen exiting
through the statue’s right foot into the river
below. Even when floodwater reached the
toes in 2020, the main body stayed dry,
though the closed eyes of the Buddha appeared
to be shedding tears.
Over centuries, the Tang Dynasty
statue has weathered, and in more recent
times pollution has tarnished the Buddha’s
face, so the Chinese government has shut
down nearby power plants and promised
to restore the landmark, which was granted
UNESCO World Heritage status in 1996.
Buddhist pilgrims as well as non-religious
Chinese offer incense at Leshan for a
good life and good luck, for Maitreya Buddha
represents a hopeful, loving and peaceful
future, something we can also aspire to.
As well as the giant Buddha, there are
temples, museums and caves with artefacts
and Buddhist art. Less visited is a separate
Oriental Buddha Park with thousands of
Buddha images, including a 170-metre
long (558 ft) reclining Buddha, and figurines
from all over Asia.
While Leshan is about 150 kilometres
(943 mi) south of Chengdu, frequent fast
bullet trains from Chengdu East and South
stations take less than an hour, and then it
is 45 minutes by bus to the town.
Best visited outside weekends and public
holidays when the place is jam-packed
with jostling tourists, Leshan can be visited
as a day trip from Chengdu, though is best
combined with an excursion to nearby
Emei Shan.
Leshan’s Giant Buddha is the tallest
pre-modern statue in the world. The
seated Buddha is 10 stories high, but if the
Buddha stood upright, he would be almost
level with the Statue of Liberty. You might
be impressed with the statue, not just for
its sheer size, but also for its craftsmanship.
The entire statue is constructed of red
sandstone, apart from the elongated ears—a
sign of wisdom and non-attachment—which
were made with wood and clay.
82 Globerovers · July 2021

LESHAN
sichuan, china
Photos: Leshan Giant Buddha, Leshan.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Keith Lyons (keithlyons.net) is an award-winning writer based in Asia who writes about
people and places. He has travelled extensively in China since the 1990s, and lived for
more than a dozen years in the mountains of south-west China, founding the social enterprise
Lijiang Guides (lijiangtravel.info) supporting ethnic guides and minority communities.
Specialising in eco-tourism and off-the-beaten-track soft adventure, he has contributed to
magazines, newspapers, guidebooks, travel books and travel sites including The Travel
Magazine, TripReporter, Asia Times, The Diplomat, Smart Travel Asia, China Daily and
Luxury Lifestyle magazines.
He was named one of the top 10 travel journalists in Roy Stevenson’s Rock Star Travel
Writers. He blogs at Wandering in the World (wanderingintheworld.com).
Contributed Article | 83

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84 Globerovers · July 2021

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85

globerovers
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86 Globerovers · July 2021

$ensible Travel Gear
GlobeRovers recommends purchasing your $ensible Travel Gear from your local stores.
Tempur-Pedic Lumbar Cushion
Do you always stuff airline pillows and
blankets behind your back? Do you arrive
at your destination with a sore back?
Take along your own compact lower
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posture and reduce the strain of sitting
in economy class for long periods. It
is lightweight and includes a machinewashable
cover.
More information at amazon.com
Lewis N. Clark Travel Door Alarm
Sleeping in hotels without secure door
locks, or with windows that can’t close
properly? For added peace of mind
bring along this pocket-sized alarm. It
is easily attached and removed from
doors or windows.
When the attached strings are moved,
it triggers a loud high-pitched sound
with fl ashing LED lights to alert you.
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Trekology Trek-Z Trekking Hiking Poles
Don’t think that walking sticks and trekking
poles are only for senior citizens. Using one
or two hiking sticks for any kind of hiking can
make the experience more pleasant by protecting
your knees, and helping prevent you from
falling.
The Trek-Z Ergonomic Trekking Poles (set
of 2) help prevent knee injuries and support
your weight, so you can hike comfortably.
More information at amazon.com
RAVPower 32000mAh Portable Charger
Nothing is more frustrating than having a
phone without battery power!
The RAVPower Portable Charger has
a monstrous 32000mAh high capacity
power bank, enough to charge
a phone for a few days. It is ideal
for the iPad Pro, iPhone 12, Mini
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Cafflano Kompact
The Cafflano ® Kompact is
an advanced immersion
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It consists of a silicone
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Yala Dreamsacks Travel Silk Sheets
You like to explore off-the-beaten-track destinations
and are all too familiar with low budget accommodation
and low budget bed sheets? Times when you wish you
were back in your own bed?
Bring along your own light-weight bed sheets for a lot
of extra comfort and luxury. The Dreamsacks travel
sheets add warmth and softness and protect you
against beds you don’t like to sleep in! Use as an extra layer in the bed
or as a sleeping bag liner. There is even a pocket to cover your pillow.
More information at amazon.com
87

Beauty and Bushfires
Exploring South Australia’s Kangaroo Island
Choking back tears, he told me,
“I looked out over the plain and
howled. It’ll take a long time to
recover, and it probably won’t be
in my lifetime”.
I was talking to David, a now-retired
guide who had spent 15 years conducting
eco-tours in Flinders Chase National
Park and the adjoining Ravine des Casoars
Wilderness Protection Area on South Australia’s
Kangaroo Island. He was telling me
about his reaction to the horrific bushfires,
started by lightning strikes, that burnt
more than 46% of the island’s 440,500
hectares (1,700 mi 2 ) over several weeks of
the 2019/2020 Australian summer. Two
lives and 50 houses were lost in the blaze,
numerous farms and businesses ruined
and thousands of animals—both livestock
and wildlife—perished.
Marion Halliday is Red Nomad OZ,
author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves
discovering nature based attractions and activities
— and scenic loos — all over Australia.
Her Aussie travel expertise, photography
and the storytelling skills she developed in
corporate life come together in her Aussie
travel blog where the highlights (and lowlights)
of her many years of downunder travel provide
inspiration for other Aussie explorers.
Words & Photography by Marion Halliday
Once covered in lush eucalypt woodlands
and dense coastal scrub, the rolling
hills and plains were open and bare where
the understory and low vegetation had
been burnt away. In many places, only
scorched tree trunks remained, very different
to the verdant forests I remembered
from my only other visit to Kangaroo
Island 15 years earlier.
The bushfires have had devastating
environmental, economic and personal
consequences for Kangaroo Island’s
4,500-strong population, and have forever
separated its history into “before” and “after”
the blaze. Recovery on all fronts has
been long, slow and hindered even further
by Covid-19 restrictions.
Despite the extensive fire damage, it’s
easy to see why the national park still attracts
many of Kangaroo Island’s 140,000
annual visitors. Nearly ten months on, the
bushland’s regeneration is well under way.
A mantle of green is starting to cover the
blackened ground and new growth sprouts
from the burnt tree trunks.
The island has become a land of dramatic
contrasts. In the forest and farmland,
the fire’s trail of destruction can end
abruptly, leaving bare, burnt ground and
untouched greenery side by side. Rocks,
I knew what he meant. I had just
seen the devastation he was describing
for myself from the Bunker Hill observation
point that looks out over the coastal
plain. Over 72,000 hectares (278 mi 2 ), or
about 96% of the bushland in the park was
destroyed by the fires, and it was a confronting
sight.
View from Bunker Hill Lookout, Flinders Chase National Park
88 Globerovers · July 2021

AUSTRALIA ROAD TRIP REPORT
Despite the devastation
of the fires,
the attractions are
all still here. A day
or two will not be
enough to experience
everything the island has to offer.
HOW TO GET HERE
dunes and land formations are now strikingly
bare where ground cover and the understory
once hid them. In places, where
the flames reached the sea, there is now an
eerily beautiful juxtaposition of blackened
vegetation against the island’s signature
aquamarine waters.
Visiting the island now is not only a
once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness
its regeneration first hand, but also to
assist community recovery by providing
much needed cash flow to affected businesses
and tourism operators.
Second Valley Coastline, Fleurieu Peninsula
Kangaroo Island, or “KI” (pronounced
“kay-eye”) as it is known to locals, is Australia’s
third-largest island after Tasmania
and Melville Island.
Travelling KI’s 155 kilometre (96 mi)
length is a journey through a stunning
wilderness landscape with 540 kilometres
(335 mi) of rugged coastline. Explore untouched
beaches and dune systems, rivers
and lakes, lush forests and oddly-shaped
rocky outcrops. Diverse animal and plant
life, fresh regional produce and friendly
locals all add to the relaxed island vibe.
The fastest way to reach KI is a
30-minute flight from Adelaide, capital of
the state of South Australia, to KI’s Kingscote
Airport. Alternatively, take the ferry
for a 45-minute ride across Backstairs
Passage to KI’s Penneshaw, 22 kilometres
(13.6 mi) from the closest mainland ferry
terminal at Cape Jervis.
From Adelaide, it’s a 90-minute drive
through the Fleurieu Peninsula to cover
the 100 kilometres (62 mi) to Cape Jervis
at its south-western tip. Driving from
Adelaide gives the option of taking your
own vehicle on the ferry, recommended
for those who wish to explore the entire
island. Caravans, camper trailers and
campers can also be taken on the ferry,
although tours are available for those without
transportation.
Contributed Article | 89

My travelling companions and I decided
to drive from Adelaide and first explore
parts of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s western
coastline en route to the Cape Jervis wharf.
As we only had a few hours before our ferry
departed, a full exploration of the peninsula’s
stunning coastline and picturesque
inland region wouldn’t be possible.
Instead, we chose a cross-section of
attractions, including Port Noarlunga’s
long jetty and red rocky walls above the
Onkaparinga River mouth; the rolling
vales and dramatic cliffs sweeping down to
the sands of Sellicks Beach; the memorial
to Australia’s only saint, Mary McKillop,
in the Yankalilla township; the clear blue
waters of Normanville beach; and Second
Valley’s unusual coastal rock formations.
Backstairs Passage, the strait between
Cape Jervis and Penneshaw, is known for
its rough seas so choosing the best time
to cross can be like picking a winning
lottery ticket. According to ferry staff, our
afternoon crossing was a rough one, but
not as bad as the morning trip when most
of a large school excursion group became
violently sea-sick.
A turbulent crossing isn’t always bad
news though. For us birdwatchers, heavy
seas can mean a greater chance of spotting
ocean-going birds such as shearwaters,
petrels and albatross, not usually seen
this close to land. The only trick is to stay
upright on deck and hold the binoculars
steady as the ferry heaves and rolls
through the waves and cross-currents.
KANGAROO ISLAND HISTORY
Discovery of stone tools, middens
(ceremonial sites), campfire sites and cave
shelters on KI are proof of Australian
Indigenous occupation, thought to predate
colonial settlement by up to 65,000
years. It is believed that a group of people
remained on the island when rising waters
separated it from the mainland 10,000
years ago during the last glacial period.
Evidence also indicates they left the island
2,000 - 4,000 years before European colonisation,
although it is unclear how or why.
Indigenous people from the mainland
knew the island as Karta Pintingga
or “Island of the Dead”. This is because
during the Aboriginal Dreamtime, the
period in which life was created, a Spirit
Ancestor travelled to the island en route to
the Milky Way and was followed here by
spirits of the dead seeking the afterlife.
There is some doubt as to when colonial
exploration of KI began. The generally
accepted version starts in 1802 when
Matthew Flinders landed here while on
an expedition to map Australia’s southern
coastline for the British Government
aboard HMS Investigator. He unimagina-
Sellicks Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula
90 Globerovers · July 2021

Australia Road Trip Report
tively recorded it as “Kanguroo Island”, for
its many kangaroos, a welcome source of
fresh meat.
After leaving the island, the Investigator
met French ship Le Geographe, captained
by Nicolas Baudin. Although their
countries were at war, the two captains
exchanged information and later that year,
Baudin mapped part of the KI coastline,
giving many of its geographic features
French names.
However, the discovery of an inscription
on a tree in the Cygnet River locality
dated 1800 and stating “The place for fat
meat” indicates that the island was already
known by then. To whom, and for how
long is unknown.
Baudin’s crew later met some American
sealers aboard the brig Union and
passed on details of the island to them.
The Americans had a quota of 12,000 seal
skins, and so KI’s sealing industry began,
closely followed by the arrival of whalers.
In 1836, the first free (non-convict)
European settlement in Australia was established
on KI by the British based South
Australian Company. Faced with many
difficulties, most of the colony relocated
to the mainland four years later, leaving
behind a few settlers whose tenacity and
ingenuity in surviving harsh conditions are
characteristics still evident in the presentday
KI community.
Normanville Beach, Fleurieu Peninsula
Nowadays, KI produce is renowned for
its quality and exported around the world.
A variety of industries includes honey
from the purest strain of Ligurian bees in
the world; boutique wineries, breweries
and a distillery; aquaculture and seafood;
eucalyptus oil, lavender and olive products;
oats and other cereal crops; along
with livestock, sea salt, free range eggs and
beauty products, all available from local
outlets and shopfronts.
Flinders Chase National Park Coastline
Contributed Article | 91

Pennington Bay
PENNESHAW & DUDLEY PENINSULA
The ferry docks at the small town of
Penneshaw, located at the island’s eastern
end, a good base for exploring the Dudley
Peninsula. Untouched by the fires, the
peninsula’s natural attractions are a good
introduction to life on KI.
We spent a day exploring the three
conservation parks along the Dudley Peninsula’s
south-eastern coastline. From mid-
May to late October, southern right whales
and the occasional humpback whale can
be seen from the cliff tops along this section
of the coast. Blue whales, the world’s
largest animal, can also be seen from the
shores, although they are more likely to be
found feeding in upwelling zones further
offshore, where nutrient-rich cold water
rises from the ocean depths.
Baudin Conservation Park, with its
coastal hiking trails and historic sites, is
only two kilometres (1.24 mi) south-east
of Penneshaw, not to be confused with
Baudin Beach to the south-west.
Lashmar Conservation Park, halfway
between Penneshaw and Cape Willoughby,
is noted for its fishing, swimming, birdwatching
and canoeing. There’s a popular
camping area where the Chapman River,
which flows through the park, enters the
ocean at Antechamber Bay, with its beautiful
sandy beach.
At KI’s easternmost point is the isolated
Cape Willoughby lighthouse outpost,
where South Australia’s first lighthouse
was built in 1852. The lighthouse, attached
museum and walking trails around the
cape are now part of the Cape Willoughby
Conservation Park.
Back in Penneshaw, watch the sunset
over Christmas Cove. Then take an evening
tour to see little penguins (Eudyptula
minor) coming ashore on the beaches and
cliffs after a day feeding out at sea.
Hog Bay Road follows a string of
beaches, including Baudin Beach, southwest
from Penneshaw to Prospect Hill,
right on the peninsula’s narrow neck where
it adjoins the central and western parts of
the island. Follow in Matthew Flinders’
footsteps and climb the large sand dune,
KI’s highest point, for 360 degree views
north across Pelican Lagoon to American
River and south to Pennington Bay. These
days, a 350-step staircase makes the steep
climb easier while protecting the fragile
dunes beneath.
92 Globerovers · July 2021

Australia Road Trip Report
American River
AMERICAN RIVER
From Prospect Hill it’s a 10 kilometre
(6 mi) drive north to the small settlement
of American River. After staying in Penneshaw
overnight, we moved here for the
remainder of our stay as it offers easier
access to the rest of KI’s attractions.
The locality was named in true Aussie
style for a group of American sealers who
camped on the shores of Pelican Lagoon,
an ocean inlet which they mistakenly
thought was a river. Sunrise over the inlet
can be spectacular, with black swans (Cygnus
atratus) and other water birds plentiful.
“Every morning I’d be given a koala
to nurse for the day,” our accommodation
host Kylie told me. “The next morning I’d
be told that the koala I’d been looking after
had died during the night. It was heartbreaking.”
She and her husband had only
lived on the island a short time before the
fires, and even though the American River
community wasn’t directly under threat,
the smoke was so thick they thought they’d
have to leave. They and their neighbours
spent some tense nights watching the glow
in the sky and hearing horror stories about
what was happening at the other end of
the island.
Once the fires raged out of control and
all visitors had returned to the mainland,
Kylie volunteered to help out at the wildlife
rescue centre, set up to care for the influx
of injured animals rescued by locals and
firefighters.
While exact pre- and post-bushfire
numbers are unknown, it is believed that
80% of the estimated 50,000 koalas on KI
perished. About 40% of those treated in
the centre were rehabilitated to be released
back into the wild, thanks to the tireless
work of volunteers and donations from
around the world.
Famous for its seafood, American
River’s most well known (and possibly
most visited) attraction is the Oyster Farm
Shop. It offers a daily selection of fresh seafood
including local oysters, abalini (baby
abalone), marron (freshwater crayfish),
King George whiting and calamari.
Just outside town a hiking trail leads
to the remains of the town’s historic fish
cannery, established around 1890, but
abandoned two years later as there was no
way to store and keep excess fish. A short
drive north-west of town is Redbanks,
where multi-coloured cliffs tower above
the beach.
KI is home to an endemic subspecies
of the critically endangered glossy black
cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus lathami halmaturinus),
and the American River flock can
often be seen around the town and nearby
bushland.
Contributed Article | 93

KINGSCOTE & NORTH COAST
Kingscote, located 38 kilometres (24
mi) north-west of American River, is KI’s
largest town and commercial centre. The
first free Australian settlement was set up
at nearby Reeves Point, now a reserve with
walking trails and historic sites listed on
the South Australian Heritage Register. The
Nepean Bay jetty is a well known fishing
spot, and great for sunrise or sunset shots.
Look for sea lions and dolphins in the
waters, and if you are lucky, you may see a
koala wandering Kingscote’s main street.
Explore the north coast’s secluded
beaches from here, including the white
sands of Emu Bay; the rocky portal leading
to Stokes Bay; and the superb swimming
and fishing at Snelling Beach. Parts of this
region were hit hard by the bushfires, but
much of the north-coast, especially the
eastern end, is now accessible.
“I was wearing my mother’s engagement
ring and a ring belonging to my late
sister that day. My other jewellery and
belongings were obliterated in the fire,”
Priscilla, a north-coast local told me, describing
the devastating losses the day that
she and her partner lost their home.
“A year later, I’m still discovering things
I didn’t realise were gone, and I feel the loss
all over again. Luckily I had uploaded a lot
of photos to Facebook because my hard
drive and backup were destroyed.” The displacement
of living in temporary accommodation
without a permanent home to
which they can return isn’t easy either.
Priscilla and her partner are now
rebuilding, but the process is hampered by
the logistics of living on an island. Returning
to normal life is still a long way off but
the support of the KI community, all of
whom have been affected in some way by
the fires, has been invaluable.
THE SOUTH COAST
The South Coast road is known for its
nature- and adventure-based attractions.
Although the fire reached the sea here, the
stunning colours, white sandy beaches and
rock pools of Vivonne Bay make it easy
to see why this beach was declared best
in the world in 2003, and is arguably KI’s
best beach location. Spend a day swimming,
surfing, snorkelling, fishing, hiking
or canoeing the Harriet River which meets
the sea at the bay.
Vivonne Bay Jetty
94 Globerovers · July 2021

Australia Road Trip Report
Nearby is Little Sahara, a coastal dune
system popular for sandboarding and tobogganing.
Sand buggies, quad bikes or fat
bikes are also on offer by tour companies,
with guided walking tours and kayaking
also available.
Further east, the Seal Bay Conservation
Park’s Australian sea lion colony can be
observed from the Visitor Centre viewing
platforms. Take a self-guided boardwalk
tour, or get even closer on a guided tour.
FLINDERS CHASE NATIONAL PARK
From American River, we took the 105
kilometre (66 mi) drive south-west to the
Flinders Chase National Park entrance,
taking about 75 minutes. En route, the
fire damage became progressively worse
until we reached the Bunker Hill lookout
mentioned above, where the worst effects
of the fire can be seen.
opportunity to see bushland regeneration
firsthand and view open landscapes not
previously visible when covered by dense
vegetation. Guided bushfire tours are also
available.
From the cape, a boardwalk descends
into the cavernous Admirals Arch, a haven
for the 7,000-strong long-nosed fur seal
(Arctocephalus forsteri) colony living and
breeding on the cape and Casuarina islets.
By the 1880s, fur seals had been hunted
almost to extinction for their thick, water
repellent pelts. From 1900, various levels
of protection have applied to the islets, and
now the Western Kangaroo Island Marine
Parks protect the waters these seals call
home.
Wildlife is returning to the bushfire
zone, although much of the habitat they
relied on for food and shelter was destroyed.
Rosenberg’s goanna (Varanus
rosenbergi), a large monitor lizard, and
the KI subspecies of short-beaked echidna
(Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus) are
able to bury themselves underground during
bushfires in order to survive.
In the far south-west at Cape du
Couedic, the low coastal vegetation is
intact, a stark contrast with other coastal
sections of the park now blackened and
burnt. The Kangaroo Island Wilderness
Trail, a five day trek passing through here,
was badly damaged by the fires, but a
modified version is now open. It is a rare
Little Sahara
Seals, Cape du Couedic
Contributed Article | 95

96 Globerovers · July 2021
Weirs Cove “Flying Fox” site, Flinders Chase National Park

Australia Road Trip Report
ABOVE: Rocks of Flinders Chase National Park
KI’s treacherous coastline and unpredictable
waters have been responsible for
over 80 shipwrecks. After lighthouses were
built at Cape Willoughby and Cape Borda,
the Cape du Couedic lighthouse was completed
in 1909 after five ships and 79 lives
were lost in the surrounding waters. Before
road access to the cape, all lighthouse supplies—and
visitors—were hoisted from the
nearby Weirs Cove landing up a 92 metre
(300 ft) high sheer cliff face to the settlement
via a primitive “flying fox” winching
system made of pulleys and ropes.
Ironically, no vegetation obscures
the park’s most well known feature—the
Remarkable Rocks—thanks to the bushfires.
The tumbling pile of fractured granite
blocks, weathered over millennia, sits on
a large dome of exposed granite above a
sheer cliff, clearly visible from Weirs Cove
and the coast-hugging road. A coating of
bright orange lichen renders some of the
rocks even more bizarre.
Featuring in films such as Napoleon
(1995), and The December Boys (2007), the
rocks have also starred in countless home
movies and social media posts. Many
visitors have their photo taken under the
“Turtle Beak”, a piece of hollowed-out
rock shaped like a hooked finger dangling
above the rocky base. Exploring the odd
shapes and textures of the rocks can take a
while if you’ve got a camera, and watching
other people exploring the rocks can take
even longer.
Although these were the only park
attractions open to the public during our
stay, I wasn’t disappointed. Seeing the
park’s recovery firsthand replaced the
despair I had felt when watching the horrifying
blaze on the news night after night.
I’m already looking forward to returning
once more attractions have reopened.
Indisputably, the close-knit KI community
is known for its resilience and courage,
and for working together to preserve and
protect the island they love. After seeing
the beauty that remains and regeneration
in the bushfire zone, it is even more apparent
that this island is a special place.
Just how special can be seen through
the photography of Benjamin Goode,
whose book about KI, PURE, we review in
this issue on page 168. While full recovery
may take many more years, don’t leave it
too long to experience its wonders. Kangaroo
Island’s attractions await!
Marion Halliday blogs as
“Australia by Red Nomad OZ” at
www.redzaustralia.com
Follow Marion @rednomadoz on Twitter,
Pinterest, LinkedIn, and Flickr.
Facebook: RedzAustralia
Check her blog on how to order her book:
“Aussie Loos with Views!”
redzaustralia.com/my-book-aussie-loos-with-views
Bushfire affected area, Flinders Chase National Park
Contributed Article | 97

98 Globerovers · July 2021

Australia Road Trip Report
NORTH COAST NEAR WESTERN RIVER, KANGAROO ISLAND.
“On my way to a different location I saw the forest on the side of the road and decided to go for a
little wander. The soft light filtering through the barren trees made for a hauntingly beautiful scene
and my motto of ‘when in doubt, stop’ was proved true once again.”
PHOTO CREDIT: Benjamin Goode, Photographer and Author.
See the review of Ben’s latest book, PURE, on page 168.
Contributed Article | 99

10 Photo Spots on Kangaroo Island
great
South Australia’s Kangaroo Island (KI) is renowned for its unspoiled wilderness, abundant wildlife, coastal scenery, intriguing history
and fresh produce. While severe bushfires in 2019/2020 destroyed nearly half the island, much beauty and many attractions still remain.
Despite the damage, now is a once-in-a-lifetime chance to witness the regeneration first-hand while experiencing KI’s charm.
Capture the best of KI at these 10 locations.
1
500 million year-old
Remarkable Rocks
Huge blocks of granite sculpted into bizarre shapes over millennia
by wind and water sit atop a massive granite dome 60
m (200 ft) above the ocean. The glow of bright orange lichen
on textured rock surfaces, odd-shaped silhouettes and boulders
hollowed out by the weathering process provide almost
endless photo opportunities in this natural playground.
The view across the bay to the Cape du Couedic lighthouse
is spectacular in this section of Flinders Chase National Park,
but the coastline is rugged, and strong winds, freak waves
and wet weather can make the rocks treacherous. Signs warn
of the dangers, so don’t step too far back for that selfi e!
2
Cape du Couedic and
3 Historic Weirs Cove
Casuarina Islets
4
Contrasting Colours
at Vivonne Bay
The 7,000-strong colony of long-nosed
fur seals that live and breed in the waters
off Cape du Couedic at the southernmost
tip of Flinders Chase National Park have
one of the best coastal views in Australia.
They, and the Australian sea lions also
found here, are generally seen basking
on the rocks or cavorting in the ocean.
Take the boardwalk down to Admirals
Arch for seal close-ups, or capture the
dramatic coastline and islands from the
lookout point on the edge of the cliff
above.
100 Globerovers · July 2021
From the ruins of the Weirs Cove lighthouse
station outbuildings, the vista along
the rugged coastline to the Remarkable
Rocks is breathtaking. With no roads to
the settlement in the 1800s, visitors and
supplies arrived by sea.
Visitors back then could admire the view
as they were winched 92 m (300 ft) up the
vertical cliff face by a primitive pulley system
called a “fl ying fox”. Nowadays, just
take the road to Weirs Cove, and photograph
the magnifi cent panorama from the
vantage point above the cliff.
Beautiful and photogenic beaches along
KI’s spectacular coastline are plentiful.
On the south coast is Vivonne Bay, once
voted best beach in the world (2003). On
a fi ne day it’s easy to see why with long
stretches of aquamarine waters against
white sand, and rocky cliffs and multi-hued
rock pools at its western end.
It’s hard to take a bad photo with colours
like these, but the contrast of blackened
vegetation—where the bushfi res burned
right down to the beach—against turquoise
sea gives photos a dramatic edge.

5 Ice Age Sand Dunes 6
Get High at
7 Swans at Sunrise
Prospect Hill
Hire a toboggan, rub it with beeswax from
local Ligurian bees, and whiz down Little
Sahara’s towering sand dunes. It’s a total
adrenaline rush—and great for photos.
This unusual dune system, covering 2.5
sq km (1 mi 2 ), was formed during the last
Ice Age. As sea levels dropped, marine
life died and the remains were blown here
by strong winds and formed into dunes.
Photograph these ancient sand dunes
silhouetted against the sky and scattered
with ant-sized people tobogganing the
steep slopes.
It’s a short, steep hike up 350 stairs to
KI’s highest point, with 360 degree views
across much of the island from the lookout
at its summit. Although offi cially named
Prospect Hill by explorer Matthew Flinders
who climbed the large sand dune in 1802
to get his bearings, locals still know it as
Mt Thisby, named for a man who once
camped at its base.
The panorama, with views to the coast
across untouched bushland, can be
photographed in any direction from the
lookout platform.
American River is really an ocean inlet
that got its name after a group of American
sealers who camped on its shores
mistook it for a river.
At sunrise, swans and other water birds
are often feeding in the inlet, and add interest
to photos as the rising sun colours
the water.
The swans don’t always pose in exactly the
right position, so charge the camera battery
and take a spare photo card—it’s likely to
take a lot of shots to get a perfect one!
8
Sunset at
Christmas Cove
9
Reflections at
Chapman River
10
Koalas at
KI Wildlife Park
Although there are many excellent sunset
shot locations around KI, one of the better
ones—and easiest to get to—is just a
short stroll from Penneshaw.
On the main road heading west of town,
Christmas Cove has all the elements
required for a superb sunset shot—a
west-facing marina, bays and headlands,
Norfolk Island pines and a vantage point
from which to take a photo. Watch as the
sun sinks behind the headland, the water
takes on the glow of evening light and the
sky becomes a blaze of colour.
One of three parks on the Dudley Peninusla’s
north-east coast, Lashmar Conservation
Park offers a change of pace—
and different photo opportunity—to the
stunning coastal scenery KI is known for.
The Chapman River fl ows through the
park and enters the sea at Antechamber
Bay, and on a calm day, the dense undergrowth
lining the river and twisted tree
trunks in the camping areas make beautiful
refl ections in the water. Kayak the river
and soak up the peace and tranquility
while capturing some great shots.
Koalas can be diffi cult to find in the wild,
let alone photograph. They’re often
asleep high in the tree-tops, with their
heads tucked away, backs to the camera,
or screened by twigs and leaves.
At the KI Wildlife Park, with its own wildlife
rescue centre established during the
bushfi res, capturing that elusive koala
shot is a lot more likely. The park’s koala
pavilion with regular close-up presentations
virtually guarantees a good photo,
but if that doesn’t work, book a koala
holding session and nail it!
Contributed Article | 101

102 Globerovers · July 2021

Snellings View
KANGAROO ISLAND | SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Snellings View — Kangaroo Island Unplugged
A place to relax and unwind from your busy life.
Snellings View is a purpose built luxury accommodation retreat for couples, honeymooners and families.
Two beautifully appointed homes provide either shared accommodation for 12, or private facilities for 2 to 6.
Snellings View has sensational uninterrupted 180-degree views of Kangaroo Island’s pristine coastline and
hinterland and is a short walk from stunning Snellings Beach, suitable for swimming and fishing.
Phone: (+61) 0413 532 745
info@snellingsview.com.au
www.snellingsview.com.au
Instagram:
Located at Middle River,
Kangaroo Island.
Overlooking Snelling Beach.
Offering stunning 180° views.
103

MADAGASCAR
THROUGH THE LENS OF
David Van Driessche
104 Globerovers · July 2021

MEET THE PHOTOGRAPHER
David Van Driessche (davidvandriessche.com)
—also known as David Dennis—is a professional
photographer specialising in travel, with passionate
eye-catching photographs of places and people.
Combining his profession with a love of travel and
a background in tourism and hospitality, he offers photography services
and tours throughout Asia.
Originally from Belgium, he studied photography and film in Europe,
and worked as a tourism product manager in the 1990s, venturing out
around the world and photographing many of the worldʼs finest hotels
and resorts, before finally settling in Thailand.
Currently he is organizing photography expeditions to Thailand, Myanmar,
Europe, Madagascar, Papua New Guinea, Vietnam and many more
destinations.
He has also worked on main stories in Travel + Leisure magazine (Mergui
Cover piece and Bhutan) and GEO, as well as with many international hotels
and resorts worldwide.
GlobeRovers Magazine asked Asia-based photographer
David Van Driessche
to tell us about his passion for photography.
From a young age I was intrigued by photography. At the
age of 16 I got my fi rst camera and started shooting on
trips with my parents, school outings and scout camps.
I was immediately drawn to night photography and black &
white.
Later when I worked as a product manager in a travel
agency, I got to travel to the US, Egypt, China and Thailand
and many European cities. I had to record my trips for the
agency to use in printed material and also make presentations
for potential customers, by way of reversal fi lm or slide
fi lm, a type of photographic fi lm that produces a positive
image on a transparent base.
I used to have two Minolta Sweet Alpha 35mm SLR cameras
in the 90s. My fi rst trip was to Sri Lanka, followed by
Thailand and Indonesia. That was it, I was addicted to travel
photography.
In 2001 I decided to move to Thailand after working as a
travel agent for 10 years. Bangkok is the perfect base from
which to visit fascinating countries, like Myanmar, Vietnam,
the Philippines and Cambodia.
I remember in 2002 going to Angkor Wat on an expedition,
and visiting Myanmar in 2009; I was alone almost everywhere.
In 2009 I bought a Canon 5D M2 and since have
stayed with the brand, upgrading to the newer versions of
the model. I love my wide-angle lenses, the Canon 17-40
mm and the Laowa 12 mm Zero D, but the Canon 70-200
2.8 is always in my bag. I was so happy with the results of
the Canon 5D Mark II I just kept on travelling and shooting,
each time looking for more remote locations, like the Naga,
Chin and Moken tribes in Myanmar, or the Asaro Mudmen
and Skeleton people in the highlands of Papua.
Later in 2015 I decided to combine my 10 years of travel
agency experience with 25 years of photography and started
photographic expeditions. My trips are mainly in Asia,
but also include Papua New Guinea, USA and, Madagascar,
of course.
Meet the Photographer | 105

106 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
THE PEOPLE
One of the highlights is photographing the
people. In Morondava and other beach areas
like Tulear, a yellow face mask is a custom to
protect the skin against the harsh sun, called
the practice of masonjoany. The mask is made
from different types of wood that are ground
and mixed with water into a paste. They have
been introduced to this custom from Indian
traders, that might be why it is so similar to the
thanaka of the Burmese people.
Photographing people in Madagascar is very
easy, just smile and point to your camera to
ask if it’s OK, most will say yes, and after a
while the whole village will wait in line to get
their portrait taken. Markets are also a good
place to walk around and capture portraits.
All photos by David Van Driessche
Meet the Photographer | 107

108 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
Photo by David Van Driessche
Meet the Photographer | 109

110 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
LIFE
Most people outside the capital live from ing and fi shing, and you can witness this on
farmest
church for mass. This is also a sight not to
your road trip every day. People cultivate cassava,
corn, sweet potato, coffee, cloves and
vanilla. It is interesting to note, Madagascar is
the world’s largest producer of vanilla, and also
seems to produce the best beans with amazing
fl avors. They also breed the famous zebu,
a kind of local cow which accounts for most of
the cattle, while pigs, sheep and poultry are
also bred for sale and food.
On Sunday you will see the locals in their best
outfi ts and they will walk miles to visit the near-
miss out on.
All photos by David Van Driessche
Meet the Photographer | 111

112 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
Photo by David Van Driessche
Meet the Photographer | 113

114 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
LandscapeS
Driving from Fianarantsoa to the coastal town
of Tulear uses Highway Number 7, and this
road shows you a wide variety of landscapes.
From the mountains of the Isalo National Park to
the terraced rice fi elds between Ranomafana
and Antsirabe, or picturesque villages of the
Betsileo people, not one view outside will bore
you and new scenery awaits you around every
corner.
Of course, the most famous photo taken is of
Baobab Alley. Baobabs are ancient trees that
look like they’ve been turned upside down with
their roots stretching up into the sky. Morondava,
the location of Baobab Alley, also offers
beautiful beaches, and a perfect opportunity
to visit local fi shing villages and see the locals
prepare the boats for their daily catch.
All photos by David Van Driessche
Meet the Photographer | 115

116 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
Photo by David Van Driessche
Meet the Photographer | 117

118 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
Fauna & Flora
Madagascar has had the opportunity to velop at its own pace and under its own rules
de-
for thousands of years, therefore having a wide
variety of fauna and fl ora only found on the
island. A visit to Andasibe-Mantadia National
Park is a must, not only to see the famous indri
but also many species of lemurs, chameleons,
insects and birds.
Most national parks visits are accompanied
by a local park tour guide, who will know the
locations of the animals at the specifi c time of
the day. Bring a good pair of binoculars and
a telephoto lens if you are photographing the
wildlife. Make sure you see these animals on
your visit: sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs, tomato
frogs, aye-aye, giraffe weevils, comet moths,
mouse lemurs, the fossa and a wide variety of
chameleons, half of which you can only see in
Madagascar.
All photos by David Van Driessche
Meet the Photographer | 119

120 Globerovers · July 2021

Meet the Photographer
In cooperation with Le Voyageur, a specialist in tours in Madagascar since 1997, David will conduct a
photography expedition in May 2022. Contact him on hotelfi les@gmail.com or see the program at:
madagaskar.travel/madagascar-photography-expedition-2021
For individual tours you can connect to Le Voyageur directly at:
Web: madagaskar.travel or Email: voyageur@madagaskar.travel
Photography Prints
$177 for 10 prints
expeditionsinphotography.com/prints
Includes a 50% donation to Covid-19 victims in
Myanmar, Thailand, Papua New Guinea and India.
Photography Tour May 2022
MADAGASCAR
Under guidance of davidvandriessche.com
Program: madagaskar.travel/photo
Organised by: Le Voyageur Madagascar
Meet the Photographer | 121

122 Globerovers · July 2021

123

Maltaʼs Islands of Surprises
Activities in a Mediterranean Haven
Words by Steve Kennedy, Kent, United Kingdom
Steve is a PR professional and founder of the World
Complete travel blog that documents his attempts to
visit every corner of the globe... eventually. Through his
accounts he hopes to pass on a few helpful hints and tips
for other travellers along the way. Part-time scuba diver,
full-time travel enthusiast, Steve currently has 42 countries
under his belt and is always looking for his next new
place to tick off.
Photography: Peter Steyn
The Republic of Malta is located in
the Mediterranean Sea just south
of Italy and east of Tunisia in
North Africa. At just 316 square kilometres
(122 mi 2 ), and with 493,000 residents calling
its islands home, Malta is both the tenth
smallest country by area and the fourthmost
densely populated sovereign state.
The country itself is made up of three
islands—Comino, Gozo, and the largest of
them, its namesake, Malta. Each year, thousands
of visitors flock to the country to enjoy
its warm climate and easy access to the sea.
Yet, there are also plenty of activities
for those who don’t plan to sit beside a
pool all day to worship the sun.
The islands are steeped in history. The
land has been populated for thousands
of years and is home to three UNESCO
World Heritage sites: the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum,
Megalithic Temples of Malta, and
the entire capital city of Valletta.
Malta’s ancient history dates as far
back as 5900 BC. Over the centuries it has
been occupied by a vast number of different
settlers and invaders. There is clear
evidence of Greek, Roman and even Arabic
influence on the architecture that remains
present to this day.
124 Globerovers · July 2021
Photos on this page: Inner harbour, Valletta.

Step forward to the 1800s, and the
British took ownership of Malta. However,
unlike other locations around the world
where the British have exerted their influence,
Malta and Britain still remain on
good terms.
In 1964, Malta gained its independence
as a nation, although chose to retain Queen
Elizabeth II as Queen of Malta and Head
of State.
All over the country there remain
fond feelings towards the British monarch
which, in turn, are extended to all visitors.
While the nation is small in size, it is
packed to the brim with locations any tourist
would be crazy to miss.
VALLETTA - THE CAPITAL
The first of these is the capital city of
Valletta. At just 0.8 square kilometres (0.3
mi 2 ), Valletta is one of the smallest capital
cities in Europe.
Don’t let Valletta’s size deceive you.
Inside its walled streets lies a treasure-trove
of interesting sites and stunning views.
Once inside the city walls, you can
make your way down the central street
of the city which plays host to numerous
shops, bars and restaurants.
Visitors will notice that the city is built
across numerous levels. The further to the
edge one goes, the more slopes or steps one
has to descend to get to the water’s edge.
During a walk around the capital’s perimeter,
it is easy to find quiet spots by the
water—with many located just off Mediterranean
Street on the north-east side of the
city, near the Siege Bell War Memorial. In
this quiet harbour area visitors can enjoy
the sun, take in the view across the Grand
Harbour, and dip their feet in the sea to
cool off.
While zigzagging through the capital
down to the harbour, no visitor will fail to
notice the sheer number of churches lining
the route. These include the Collegiate Parish
Church of St. Paul’s Shipwreck, one of
the oldest churches in the city.
There is also the National War Museum
at Fort St. Elmo at the far end of the city
which is worth a look.
Valletta is extremely popular with
holiday-makers, so expect the streets to be
busy during peak times. This will probably
be the busiest place anyone will experience
during a stay in Malta.
Photos on this page: Inner harbour, Valletta.
Contributed Article | 125

MDINA — THE FORTIFIED CITY
A short 25-minute drive from Valletta
stands the ancient fortified city of Mdina
which may look familiar to fans of the TV
show Game of Thrones. This city provided
the backdrop to a number of scenes in the
early seasons of the hit show.
Despite its rise in popularity, and
rather fortunately for the heritage of
Mdina, the city has not gone over-the-top
promoting that fact.
While Valletta combines the old with
the new—there is plenty of history (especially
Second World War history) in the
capital—Mdina gives the feel of stepping
into another time. The stone streets have
an atmosphere of years gone by, untouched
by modern society.
Visitors will enter this stone city by the
Mdina Gate, an archway dating back to the
1700s. Inside they can spend hours searching
the city’s winding streets, taking in the
views and enjoying the tranquillity that
this majestic place has to offer.
While the ancient city does draw
people in, it somehow doesn’t give the
same feeling of being overcrowded that can
sometimes be the case in parts of Valletta.
There is plenty to see in Mdina, but
visitors should make sure they spare the
time to head over to St. Paul’s Cathedral to
take a look at the magnificent architecture
on display.
Mdina, Città Vecchia Walled City.
St. Paul’s Cathedral, Mdina.
Marsaxlokk fi shing village.
126 Globerovers · July 2021

Malta
MARSAXLOKK FISHING VILLAGE
In the South Eastern Region of Malta,
and away from the hustle and bustle of
the busier Maltese cities, sits the village of
Marsaxlokk.
The name of Marsaxlokk itself is
extremely literal and means “Port to the
South East”. A small, traditional fishing village
becomes a travellers’ dream thanks to
its stunning views, fishermen bringing in
their daily catch, and a wealth of history.
Yet it is only in the recent past that this
area became populated, with the first mentions
being in 1890 when it was recorded
that some 210 people lived there.
To start with, the village was kept as a
place for holidaying with a large number
of people from distant towns and villages
choosing to spend the summer there.
However, over the years, people who
only came for the summer ended up staying
all year. According to the 1961 census
the population had reached 778 people and
by the year 2006 the population had risen
to 3,200!
The village boasts a simple way of life
which visitors can find quaint, yet welcoming.
The sea remains Marsaxlokk’s
most prized possession as the majority of
livelihoods are married to it in one form or
another.
Marsaxlokk is also famous for the national
boats (the Luzzu and the Kajjik) which
are deployed for fishing near the shore.
Marsaxlokk fi shing village.
The vast majority of Malta’s fish supplies
are caught by fishermen coming from
this port, with around 70% of the Maltese
fishing fleet based here. Swordfish, tuna,
and lampuki (known as dorado or mahimahi
elsewhere) are caught in abundance
between spring and late autumn. On weekdays,
the catch is taken to the fish-market
in Marsa, but on Sundays, fresh fish is sold
by fishermen directly from the quay.
Fishing villages with Marsaxlokk on the right.
Contributed Article | 127

The Cittadella, Gozo Island.
Church of Saint John the Baptist, Xewkija, Gozo Island.
128 Globerovers · July 2021

Malta
GOZO ISLAND
Island hopping is a popular activity in
Malta and many visitors will opt for the
drive across the main island to catch the
ferry from the far west-side port of Cirkewwa
to the beautiful, smaller island of Gozo.
Here, Victoria remains the largest
settlement and the de-facto capital of the
island. Yet, while there are a number of sites
in the area that are worth a look, there is
one that draws visitors with its impressive
stone-built fortifications and medieval feel.
The Citadel, or Cittadella as it is known,
rises high above Victoria to the north-west,
and is a quiet and welcoming place with an
impressive number of sites to see, including
the Cathedral of the Assumption, the old
prison and over 20 churches.
Visitors can make their way through
the streets up to the highest point for some
stunning views. Staring out from the city
wall, visitors get a phenomenal view across
not only the entire Citadel, but also to the
coast of Gozo. The island, like much of
Malta, is quite flat so from an elevated position
it is easy to see a long way out.
To the south of Victoria is Xewkija
Village, the oldest village on Gozo. It is
perhaps best known for the Rotunda of
Xewkija, the circular church at the centre of
the village that is visible from much of the
island.
Visitors arriving at the village will be
able to see the remains of the Tat-Tmien
Kantunieri windmill erected in the time
of Grand Master Perellos (1697—1720).
This is a unique mill in Gozo because the
ground floor is built in an octagonal shape,
which shows the eight principal wind directions.
Also worth a visit here is the chapel
known as Madonna tal-Ħniena (Our Lady
of Charity) which is dedicated to Saint Bartholomew,
along with the tower and newly
restored chapel of Saint Cecilia that lie on
the edge of the village. The Saint Cecilia
chapel is the oldest in Gozo.
Nearby, on the coast, also lies the
beautiful and unspoilt Mġarr ix-Xini Valley
which combines the tranquillity of the
views with fantastic access to the peaceful
Bay of Mġarr ix-Xini: popular with visitors
and locals as a place to swim, snorkel and
dive.
To one of the furthest points west of
Gozo, sits the welcome retreat of the secluded
Dwejra Bay.
Showcasing dramatic coastal formations
with the sea spilling and crashing over
the rocks, the bay is an enchanting attraction.
Visitors eager to get into the inviting
water can swim in the spectacular deep sea
of the bay, in the calm shallows of the inland
sea, or in the foamy waters around the
Blue Hole—one of Gozo’s best dive-sites.
The bay is also the home of the Fungus
Rock or, as it is locally known, Il-Ġebla tal-
Ġeneral; or General’s Rock, and is named
in remembrance of the Italian General who
centuries ago sadly fell to his death while
supervising quarrying in the area.
Dwejra Bay, Gozo Island.
Contributed Article | 129

Azure Window near Dwejra Bay, Gozo Island.
Azure Window near Dwejra Bay, Gozo Island.
130 Globerovers · July 2021

Malta
Just north of Dwejra Bay, is the former
home of the Azure Window—a 28 metretall
(92 ft) natural archway off the San
Lawrenz coastline. This archway once saw
visitors flock to the area to look at, walk
over and sail under it.
However, due to its exposed position
to both the sea and the wind, the archway
suffered a long, slow process of erosion.
Between the 1980s and early 2000s large
chunks of rock fell away from the arch into
the sea, making it more and more unstable.
The whole Azure Window finally fell
apart in March 2017, after a period of
heavy storms inflicted fatal blows to the
unstable column holding up the archway.
Once it fell, all parts of the archway disappeared
under the water and are now gone
forever!
Nowadays, visitors can drive up to
where the arch once was and view, well,
nothing other than the sea. It’s free to do,
which is a bonus, but no longer can visitors
witness what was perhaps once one of the
most impressive sights this beautiful island
nation had, which has now been reclaimed
by nature.
These are just a handful of must-sees,
but it is fair to point out there are many
more great sights to take in. The joy of
Malta is that for such a small country, it offers
great variety at an affordable price.
With so many locations all within a
short drive of one another, Malta remains a
dream location for travellers of all ages.
Fungus Rock, Gozo Island.
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Lascaris Tower, Dwejra Bay, Gozo Island.
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Contributed Article | 131

Article
Nicaragua
Concepción Volcano, Ometepe Island, Nicaragua
Concepción Volcano is the second-highest volcano in Nicaragua and one of the
most perfectly cone-shaped volcanoes of the Americas. Climbing it is a tough,
but exhilarating experience, as long as you are aware of the dangers!
If you’re not ready to tackle Concepción, climb its neighbour, Maderas Volcano.
“As I reached the summit and got close to the edge of the crater, the wind-gusts
and perpetual sandstorm were so strong that I had to switch into survival mode
and drop flat on my stomach. It was like being on a distant planet!”
132 Globerovers · July 2021

Climbing
Concepción Volcano
Ometepe Island – Nicaragua
Story and Photography by
Peter Steyn
For a long time I gazed on Google Earth at
Nicaragua’s dumbbell-shaped Ometepe
Island (locally called Isla de Ometepe)
in the centre of Lago de Nicaragua. I found it
fascinating that two almost-symmetrical cone volcanoes,
connected by a narrow isthmus, popped
out along the west side of this large lake. The
largest cone on the north-west part of the island,
Volcán Concepción, is a
1,610-metre-high (5,283
ft) active stratovolcano.
It is Nicaragua’s secondhighest
volcano and one
of the most perfectly
shaped volcanoes of the Americas.
While the volcano seems mostly dormant,
during the past 100 years it has been in a nearconstant
state of small to medium explosions
at irregular intervals. Since 1883 it has erupted
several times and over the last few decades the
eruptions have added over 100 metres (330 ft) to
the height of its summit. More recently, its activity
has increased to frequent, moderate-sized explosions
with some violent outbursts. With constant
earthquakes and frequent small flare-ups, Concepción
never sleeps. In between these eruptions
a continuous discharge of vapours and toxic
sulphur gases is emitted from its summit. While
the volcano does not pose an imminent threat to
the communities on the island, it certainly has a
powerful presence.
It was a day of spectacular slips, slides, and
falls but other than scratches and bruises,
we did not have any serious injuries...
I read that although dangerous, hiking
Concepción can be an exhilarating experience as
the path passes through five distinct ecosystems,
meaning changes in the vegetation, landscape and
even the type of insects the higher you ascend.
While the dry primary forest towards the base
is home to howler and white-throated capuchin
monkeys as well as the usual spiders and beetles
we are familiar with, the
ecosystem in the “kill
zone” near the summit is
very different. Here you
may find bugs such as
lava crickets, ants with
horns, bees with neon yellow stripes and bright
green click beetles. Being at the top, they say, is
like being on Mars, and this is what I wanted to
experience.
The other option was to hike Concepción’s
peaceful neighbour, the smaller and dormant
Volcán Maderas with its summit at 1,345 metres
(4,413 ft) on the south-east side of the island.
Thousands of years ago the summit exploded
and a multitude of lava boulders was scattered
all around its slopes. A turquoise crater lagoon
has since formed on its summit which is ideal
for swimming in this most serene setting. Its
truncated cone is covered in thick rain forest that
is home to an incredible ecosystem of flora and
fauna, including howler and capuchin monkeys,
and many species of birds, insects, butterflies,
Article | 133

Concepción Volcano: Nicaragua
orchids and ferns. Due to its ecological and
archaeological importance, the volcano
and its surroundings have been designated
a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
I am quite a volcano aficionado and felt
it was my calling to go check out the action
on Concepción, but the more I read about
this volcano, the more it scared me. After
much soul-searching, I decided it would
be wiser to hike up its dormant neighbour,
Maderas, and safely photograph the activity
on Concepción from there. And so my
decision was cemented.
GETTING THERE
Iwas still travelling in Costa Rica,
south of Nicaragua, so the next
morning I headed for the border. Just 35
kilometres (22 mi) north of the crossing
lies the small Nicaraguan town of Rivas
where a big, rickety, converted school bus
dropped me off. From here it was a fivekilometre
(3.1 mi) tricycle taxi ride to the
ferry pier in the village of San Jorge on the
shores of Lake Nicaragua.
Even from a distance, I could see that the
vegetation formed clearly defined bands
around the volcano, except for the western
side which was mainly covered in lava
flows, and was devoid of trees and scrub.
As a result of the recent lava spills, the
upper half of the summit cone also lacked
any type of vegetation. Some lava spills
looked quite fresh to me and my decision
not to climb Concepción was reaffirmed.
The boat journey was uneventful and
after less than an hour on the choppy
waters of the lake, we docked safely at the
village of Moyogalpa. What a relief!
After checking in at the basic guesthouse,
I headed into the village in search
of dinner.
IN PREPARATION
As I strolled down the dusty streets
of Moyogalpa, I came across three
wandering backpackers: Imke, a Dutch gal;
her friend Don, also Dutch; and Hampus
who hailed from Sweden.
They told me that they had just met
up with a local guide who was willing to
take them to the summit of Concepción so
they could peek inside the crater. He had
told them it would take between four to six
hours to ascend the summit and about the
same time to descend, depending on how
many rest-stops they took and how fast
they could climb. Stamina, determination,
and mental preparedness is everything! The
I had thought the big bus was rickety,
but that was nothing compared to the
ramshackle wooden boat that quickly filled
up with many overzealous passengers,
all scrambling to get a seat. I could have
waited for the much larger ferry which
promised to be less death-defying, but I
had the urge to get to Ometepe Island and
face my challenges.
And so I hopped onto the boat, placed
my backpack on the roof, and found
myself a cramped standing space in the
overcrowded sitting area. This was not a
place for anyone who is claustrophobic,
gets seasick, or is afraid of facing an untimely
death.
Cargo / passenger ferry to Ometepe Island.
While I knew that none of these applied
to me, I realised that this boat ride
was going to be the ultimate test. I have
been in situations like this before, and my
modus operandi has always been the same:
plug in the earphones, crank up the rock
music, and let the adrenaline do its work.
As the boat came closer to the island,
I got glimpses through the small wooden
windows of just how much Concepción
dominated the skyline of Ometepe Island.
Passenger ferry to Ometepe Island.
134 Globerovers · July 2021

start time was 6:00 AM the next morning
and I was more than welcome to join them.
What an invitation! However, by now
I considered myself to be well informed.
Concepción was an active and dangerous
volcano; scaling the crater should not
be attempted without a professional and
experienced guide; and then only when the
volcano was “sleeping” with absolutely no
sign of imminent eruptions.
I had read recent reports that the
volcano had rumbled a few weeks earlier
and while it may well be briefly napping,
it sure was not sleeping. Volcanoes are
highly unpredictable, so my hesitation to
climb Concepción in its current state was
well-founded.
Not only that, the more I talked with
them, the more I became convinced that
their guide was most likely a willing villager
in need of cash, rather than a professional
volcano-climbing guide.
I shared my serious concerns with my
new friends, and spelt out the dangers
which Concepción could literally throw at
us. Being much younger and less wise than
me, they shrugged off my concerns and
assured me they had a good guide lined
up who had told them the volcano had
behaved well lately, so we should have a
safe climb to the top.
I am a born adventurer, so for these
youngsters to laugh at me because I
preferred to climb dormant Maderas as I
feared the adventure of climbing a napping
giant, was certainly not good for my ego.
So, I hesitantly agreed to their plan, and
promised to join them the next morning.
There are three recommended routes to
the summit. On the west side of the island,
a few kilometres outside Moyogalpa, is the
starting point of the La Concha Trail at La
Concepción village; and close by is the La
Flor trail that begins near the village of La
Flor. In the east of the island, outside the
town of Altagracia, is the La Sabana Trail.
After much deliberation, we decided to
start the hike from La Flor. The first part of
this hike was supposedly fairly flat, while
the remaining part was uphill at a 25 to
35-degree angle. In addition to that was an
increasing altitude while climbing up steep
scree slopes, so we had some serious physical
challenges awaiting us.
While I had a newfound excitement
that had gotten my adrenaline pumping
for the second time that day, I didn’t feel
prepared with the necessary gear, energyboosting
food, and water.
Before heading back to our guesthouses,
we scooped up a few bottles of water,
and some snacks and bread at a small
kiosk and set off to get an early night.
Inside the ferry to Ometepe Island.
I think that night we all prayed for a
cloudless day. We had heard that climbing
the volcano either during or immediately
after rain was like being on a suicide mission
as we would be slipping and sliding all
the way, another challenge that none of us
needed.
Having a cloudless day would also
afford us expansive views over the island
and the lake. However, the summit of
Concepción is so high that it creates its
own micro-weather system, meaning that
while the skies all around might be clear,
the summit could be covered by a ring of
swirling clouds.
With some luck, we would at least have
a few minutes of clear patches and even see
inside the billowing crater.
Ometepe Island with Concepción on the left and Maderas on the right.
Early riser gets the biggest worm, so
I got up at 5:00 AM to be ready for the
planned 6:00 AM departure with my
volcano climbing team. I knew that the day
would be either one of the most exciting
days of my life—or my last.
Article | 135

Concepción Volcano: Nicaragua
THE ASCENT
Not too surprisingly, my team slept
in and then decided to first have
breakfast. Eventually at 7:15 AM, well
behind schedule, we started our hike via
the tiny village of La Flor. Each of us was
stocked up with five litres of bottled water,
a few packs of crackers and bread, and a lot
of guts.
I believe in the value of trekking poles,
particularly when hiking steep mountains.
Other than Imke, my young team members
decided they knew better so they didn’t
bother taking along hiking sticks.
Loading up on “high energy” snacks.
The first stage of the hike led through
some dusty farmland and banana fields outside
the village. The tiny path then crawled
through the primary and secondary dry
forests. This was all easy hiking so we chatted
and laughed while getting into the right
state of mind.
We passed a few enormous Ceiba
trees. This majestic giant of the rainforest
is the national tree of Guatemala and is an
iconic feature throughout the tropical and
subtropical zones across Central and South
America.
Peter, Imke, Hampus and Don.
It had great symbolic importance to
the ancient Maya people who believed that
the tree signified a route of communication
between the three levels of earth. Its roots
were thought to reach down into the underworld,
the trunk represented the middleworld
where humans live, and its canopy of
branches reached high into the sky which
symbolized the upper-world of heaven.
Today the tree remains sacred to the
indigenous people of Nicaragua who
believe that the souls of their dead climb
into the massive trees to reach heaven. The
living can’t climb this tree as large spines
protrude from the trunk to protect it from
bark-eating predators and climbing men.
Once we reached the base of the volcano,
the black-soil trail became narrower
and steeper. A few intermittent stretches
of man-made steps and large tree roots to
hop over made the trail challenging but
interesting.
As we entered the second quarter of
the climb, the trail became steeper, and
changed from slippery soil to small, loose
A long way to the summit.
volcanic gravel. We started to talk less,
drank more water, and often had to stop to
take a rest. I realised then that in order to
complete what we started, bonding and a
great sense of humour were essential.
During the first three hours, our team
stayed close together, shared chats and
laughs, and often turned back to enjoy the
breathtaking views.
By the time we reached the third
quarter of the climb, each of us had several
“spectacular falls” as we jokingly referred to
136 Globerovers · July 2021

Concepción Volcano on Ometepe Island.
Imke hiking up.
Imke with our guide.
our missteps. Fortunately these resulted in
nothing more serious than small scratches
and bruises.
As Imke increasingly lagged behind,
our guide and I remained close to her
while Don and Hampus kept moving
ahead. Before long they were out of view,
but we weren’t concerned as we expected
to meet up with them at the summit.
As we hiked higher, the different bands
of vegetation became more obvious. First
came the tall banana trees, followed by
several belts of trees in descending order
of height.
Eventually, the tree line ended in
alpine flora, first with high shrubs, then
low shrubs. From here, we walked through
high grass, then short grass, and eventually
no grass where the hot gravel started.
The gravel ended at the ridge of the crater
where steam hovered over the abyss.
The real fun started in the final quarter
of the climb, about four hours into our
ascent. We were in for a great treat.
Muck, knee-deep muck! The sludge
was made up of decomposing organic matter
which had reached the point of disgust,
formed when plants, mostly low-growing
ferns and grass, were destroyed in a recent
mudflow following an eruption.
The constant rain on top of the decomposing
plants and volcanic mud created a
trap for us climbers, so at times we were
walking ankle deep in muck and often
sank knee-deep.
We were covered in dirt beyond belief!
Article |137

Concepción Volcano: Nicaragua
THE SUMMIT
Once we worked our way through the
mire, it was time to scale the steep,
warm, loose gravel towards the edge of
the crater while avoiding the hot volcanic
steam being emitted from small vents. At
this height the wind-gusts and perpetual
sandstorm were fierce and without good
shoe traction, it was often one step forward
and two steps back as we unsuccessfully
tried to dig our heels into the dirt. About
10 metres (33 ft) from the crater, the wind
was blowing so strongly that we could
hardly stay on our feet.
By now we were enshrouded in thick
fog and could barely see more than a few
metres ahead. Don and Hampus were nowhere
in sight which was a great concern.
I realized that this was going to be an unforgettable
day—if we survived!
I went into survival mode and dropped
flat on my stomach. This was going to be
the safest, and probably the only way to get
close to the crater’s edge.
On the increasingly hot gravel, I
crawled closer and closer to the edge. My
body and particularly my hands were now
starting to burn but I was committed to
reaching the edge. I felt like a desert lizard
on the hot sun-soaked sand who alternately
keeps two opposite feet in the air. Imke
and the guide decided they had enough
and stopped short of the final ascent. I was
determined and soon I was peering into
the smouldering crater. To keep breathing
I had to stuff my hat in my mouth to
filter out the poisonous gases. While the
view was not clear due to the thick sulphur
clouds pushing up from the depths, I could
see some strikingly bright-yellow sulphur
deposits.
I wish I could have spent more than
a few seconds peeking into the abyss and
taking more photos, but this was one of the
most inhospitable places on earth. I kept
thinking that the ground I was lying on
might give way and tumble with me into
the crater, or that the fierce wind could
blow me inside. I was greatly concerned
that this was the fate of our two missing
friends.
This was one of the scariest, but also
one of the most exciting moments of my
life. Above all, it was one of the dumbest
things I have ever done.
I retreated from the edge and rejoined
Imke and our guide, and we moved further
away from the crater, its sulphur gases,
and the strong wind. We then saw a gap
in the clouds which gave us a nice view of
Ometepe Island and the lake.
THE DESCENT
The first rule of mountaineering is to
remember that all who go up, must
also come back down. So don’t get too
comfortable at the summit. The descent
was going to be equally as tough, if not
tougher!
First, we scrambled back to the muck.
We could no longer endure the
uncertainty of what had happened to the
guys. Our continued calls to them didn’t
get far as the wind carried our voices back
towards the crater. Our guide then asked
Imke and me to stay put while he scrambled
down into the higher shrubs to look
for them.
Imke had another bad fall and sank
deep into the muck while screaming for
help. This was crunch time and I had to
keep her spirits high with my sense of
humour and silly jokes, though I think I
failed. She was almost inconsolable.
Meanwhile, after about half an hour
of searching, the guide’s calls eventually
reached the ears of the lost boys and we
were all reunited.
They explained that as they approached
the crater’s edge, they decided it was too
dangerous to stay long and turned around.
Disoriented due to the high winds and
clouds, they could not find the path leading
down to where we were still ascending,
so they ended up about 30 degrees off
course lower down the slope.
By this time they both had a few
more spectacular falls and were drenched
in muck, covered in bruises, and most
concerning—were running out of water.
Hampus had hardly any water left and Don
complained that his knees were folding
under his tired body.
As we started our descent, we were
extremely exhausted, had no food left, and
had to seriously ration our water intake
due to limited supplies. I had to share my
last litre of water with Hampus as he had
run out of water shortly after we started
the descent.
I remained strong thanks to my sense
of humour, which had gone into overdrive.
While it took five hours to ascend, the
descent took us five and a half hours. In
many ways, the descent was more strenuous
and we fell more frequently—and
spectacularly—going down, than going up.
My trekking poles were indispensable and
thankfully prevented me from slipping and
falling more frequently than I did.
138 Globerovers · July 2021

Great views over Lake Nicaragua from the summit of Concepción Volcano.
At the edge of the crater of Concepción Volcano.
Article |139

Concepción Volcano: Nicaragua
THE RECOVERY
We were exhausted by the time
we eventually reached the base
of the volcano. As we entered La Flor, the
village from where we had started over 10
hours earlier, we stumbled into the first kiosk
we came across and gulped down their
entire stock of cold water. After relaxing
under a tree for a while, we headed back to
our guesthouse in Moyogalpa. Although
immensely proud of what we had accomplished,
I promised myself not to put my
body and mind through such exertion
again anytime soon.
The next morning I packed up, waved
goodbye to my friends, and moved to the
historic village of Altagracia, located near
the northeastern slope of Concepción. I
had lost the energy to hike up Maderas, so
I decided to spend the next few days relaxing
in Altagracia, which is more authentic
than Moyogalpa and quite an interesting
place to explore.
Astalgalpa, as the Nahuatl Indians
called it, was the indigenous capital of Ometepe
in pre-Columbian times. Still standing
in the village is a parochial church with
a wooden bell tower, constructed in 1924.
In the grounds of the church are some of
the large stone idols found on Ometepe. A
few other vestiges of Ometepe’s rich pre-
Columbian past, including funerary urns,
pottery, stone sculptures, and petroglyphs
can be seen in the Museo de Ometepe, the
archaeological museum in Altagracia.
taineering: What goes up, must come
down. If your legs can barely carry you
halfway up, forget reaching the summit
and then stumbling all the way back.
You don’t want to get to the top and
be carried down by your teammates who
likely won’t even be able to carry themselves
down the mountain. Apparently,
only one-third of climbers who attempt the
climb make it to the summit, but don’t let
this discourage you.
If you have what it demands, you will
make it. If you are not ready for Concepción,
then climb the easier Maderas which
will also be a great experience.
I’m very glad that I faced the challenge
and switched from Maderas to Concepción.
However, once in a lifetime is enough!
Next time I’m on Ometepe it will be
me and Maderas.
Kids in the village of Altagracia.
To experience the rest of Ometepe
Island, rent a motorbike and take the circle
road around both volcanoes.
Store in Altagracia.
From Ometepe Island, head back
to the mainland and then north to the
colourful town of Granada which is an
excellent base for exploring the many attractions
in that region.
MORAL OF THE STORY
Climbing Concepción Volcano is one
of the most exhilarating experiences
on the list of many global adventurers. It
requires stamina, resilience, determination,
and a lot of humour. Make sure to
subscribe to the very first rule of moun-
Streets of Altagracia.
Stone sculptures, Altagracia.
140 Globerovers · July 2021

Kids in the village of Altagracia.
TIPS FOR HIKING VOLCÁN CONCEPCIÓN
1. Hike in a group: Don’t even think about hiking
alone. Anything can happen on this unforgiving
volcano and having at least one climbing buddy to
call on for help may save a life.
2. Get an experienced guide, even if it costs more.
The guide will ensure you stay on the right path and
won’t get disoriented. A knowledgeable and experienced
guide will also offer a wealth of information
about plants, insects, and the volcano itself. Make
sure the guide is committed to taking you all the
way to the summit and won’t try to fool you halfway
by saying it is too dangerous to continue—unless it
truly is, then you better listen and turn around!
3. Bring enough supplies: Bring along a lot more
food and water (5 to 7 litres per person) than you
think you will need. This is a very strenuous hike
and the thin air can get very dry and hot. Not having
enough water is suicidal.
4. Start the ascent as early as possible, even
before sunrise. This will ensure you don’t have to
rush to be back by sunset. Even worse, if there is
an injury you will have more time to slowly get back
down before dark.
5. Bring a flashlight just in case you don’t make it
back before dark. Being on the volcano after sunset
is a major risk, and going without a fl ashlight is
another suicidal mistake.
6. Wear hiking boots. Don’t try to hike barefoot or
with fl ip-ons, slip-ons or fl ip-fl ops. While the locals
can, you most likely can not. Even sandals may
prove to be insuffi cient. Put on the most rugged
hiking boots you have.
7. Bring two trekking poles. They will be indispensable,
especially during the descent.
8. Bring along protective clothing: It can be freezing
at the top so don’t forget a long-sleeved shirt,
raincoat, and long pants. Other necessities include
insect repellent, sunblock, a hat, and fi rst aid
supplies. Sunglasses are essential to avoid getting
sand in your eyes, especially at the top where the
sandstorm never seems to stop.
9. Hike in the right season: While the hike can be
done year-round, the dry season lasts from December
to February or March during which time
there is a higher, though not guaranteed, chance
of clear skies. September through October or even
November have the heaviest rainfalls so it’s best to
avoid hiking at this time.
Article |141

A Greek Island Odyssey
Sailing through the Cyclades Islands to Santorini
Words by Gaverides
Syros Island, Cyclades Archipelago, Aegean Sea, Greece
Gaverides is an Australian now living in Greece. Over the past 20 years he
has travelled extensively throughout Greece, and enjoys writing about his
adventures, especially the journeys that take him there. He aims to capture
the distinctive aspects of this amazing country. Few countries in the world
offer tourists as much as Greece, with its unparalleled history, unique culture,
natural beauty, and of course the amazing islands in the Aegean and
Ionian Seas.
Photography by Peter Steyn
Ihave been living on the Greek
island of Syros for many years,
enjoying its wonderful lifestyle and
unique experiences. Syros is the capital
of the Cyclades, the most well known of
the Greek Island groups located in the
Aegean Sea, and it includes famous names
like Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Ios and—of
course—Santorini.
One experience that had eluded me over
the years, however, was the opportunity to
sail the Aegean Sea. In the spring, summer
and autumn months, I would see the yachts
sail into the bay from my home in the west
coast village of Kini on Syros. They usually
came in the late afternoon seeking safe
harbour and refuge for the night.
With my binoculars, I would watch in
awe as they slid silently into the bay and
manoeuvred for the most comfortable
overnight anchorage. Often they came in
a flotilla of charter yachts full of amateur
yachtsmen living their dream.
For me, sailing noiselessly from island
to island across the beautiful royal-blue waters
of the Aegean propelled only by wind
in the sails represented the ultimate in freedom.
I had sailed on the rivers back home
in Australia, but that was nothing compared
to what was on offer here in the Cyclades.
Frustratingly, I was living in the midst
of a recognised sailors’ paradise without
142 Globerovers · July 2021

A Greek Island Odyssey
being able to take advantage of it, and
constantly wanderlusted about having such
an adventure.
Finally, when my English friend Chris
(called “Captain Pugwash”) invited me to
join him and two others on his wonderful
45-foot double-masted sailboat Kopernicus
(affectionately known as Kop), for a fourday
sail to Santorini via Paros and Ios, I
jumped at the chance.
I knew I would be in good hands as
Captain Pugwash is an experienced mariner,
and had sailed Kop to Greece from
the Costa Del Sol in Spain where he had
purchased her some years earlier.
DAY 1: SYROS TO PAROS
On a warm June afternoon after loading
the necessary provisions, we set sail
from the Finikas Marina on the south-west
corner of Syros. With a wind speed of
around four on the Beaufort scale (11-16
knots) from the northwest, it promised to
be a pleasant sail south-east to Paros, a distance
of 27 nautical miles (50 km / 31 mi).
Winds in the Cyclades can be very
strong and unpredictable, so we were
pleased with our good fortune of having
this moderate breeze.
I was given the delightful responsibility
of steering Kop with the help of the
Saturn Navigation System, which meant
keeping the black arrow on the screen at a
predetermined setting. The friendly breeze
enabled a comfortable cruising speed of
around 10 knots, which was to remain a
constant over the next few days.
With a bottle of Pugwash’s favourite
beer, Perlenbacher, in one hand and my
other guiding the wheel, I was finally living
my dream of sailing effortlessly across the
Aegean with the wind in my hair and the
warm sun on my face.
We passed the island of Mykonos.
Famous for its Cycladic architecture, the is-
Captain Pugwash at the wheel of Kopernicus.
Contributed Article | 143

land is packed with picture-perfect scenes
of traditional whitewashed houses and
blue-domed churches.
On the hills facing west into the sunset
are the trademark windmills of Mykonos,
south of Little Venice. The exotic beaches
of this exquisite island with their crystal
clear turquoise water are among the very
best in the Mediterranean. Unfortunately,
a stopover on Mykonos was not part of our
route plan for this trip, so we continued
sailing on to Paros.
We arrived at the main town of Parikia
on the west side of Paros at dusk and set
anchor approximately 200 metres (656
ft) offshore. With a reasonably calm sea
forecast for the night, our only concern
was to make sure we weren’t in the main
ferry channel, as Paros, along with Syros,
is a major central hub for ferries in the
Cyclades.
Once moored safely we enjoyed the
obligatory sunset drink and watched the
port action from a safe distance. Whilst
extremely popular with island hoppers as
a party destination, Paros is not the most
scenically attractive island, being relatively
flat, dry and devoid of trees. However, on
a warm summer night it lights up into a
magical world of activity.
It was the perfect setting in which to
end my first day of sailing the Aegean,
and first night aboard a serious yacht. We
contemplated rowing ashore to soak up the
town’s vibe but in the end opted to have
dinner on board and an early night.
Immediately to the east of Paros lies
its neighbour Naxos, the largest of the
Cyclades islands. The port town, Chora,
with its vibrant waterfront and many gorgeous
beaches, makes Naxos one of the
most beautiful of the Greek islands. Close
to the port is the Portara—the distinctive
remains of an unfinished Temple dedicated
to Apollo—built in the 6th century BC.
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A Greek Island Odyssey
DAY 2: PAROS TO IOS
Under almost identical conditions
to our first day, we left Parikia in the late
morning and headed south for approximately
30 nautical miles (55 km / 34 mi),
bound for the island of Ios.
Getting there meant passing through
the Strait of Antiparos, a tricky narrow
waterway separating Paros from Antiparos,
its smaller brother. Captain Pugwash was
fully aware of how treacherous these waters
are—with hidden rocky shoals and shallow
depths, there is little margin for error.
His knowledge was excellent, however,
and he put me on the steering wheel again,
setting up a line of sight between a rocky
outcrop behind us and another approximately
200 metres (656 ft) in front. Full
concentration was required to steer Kop
through this challenging strait.
Despite this rather tense spell of sailing,
we still tried to spot actor Tom Hanks residing
in his villa on Antiparos. I had read
that he and his wife spend the summer
months here, as she is of Greek heritage
from these islands. He was recently granted
honorary Greek citizenship for helping the
local community. Antiparos is of low and
flat terrain, again not spectacular by any
means, and its inhabitants have lived here
for thousands of years.
While sailing through the strait, we
were oblivious to the fact that we had
passed one of Greece’s most important
archaeological sites on the tiny islet of
Saliangos, measuring just 7,700 square
metres (82,882 ft 2 ) in area. It is the oldest
known farming area and settlement in
Cycladic culture and dates back to the late
Neolithic period, around 4000 BC.
It was only discovered in 1964 by the
British School of Archaeology. The amazing
artefacts found here are now on display
in the Archaeological Museum of Paros,
including the “Obese Lady of Saliangos”,
the oldest marble figurine yet found in
the Cyclades. Such are the joys of sailing
through these magical waters.
Once through the channel, we entered
the open sea and headed south for the
four-hour sail down to Ios. We sailed at
a leisurely pace until the last hour or so
when the winds picked up. When entering
the small harbour of Gialos in the late afternoon,
we had a challenging time ahead
of us trying to moor alongside the quay.
Despite having protection from the
northerly winds, the resultant swell made
it extremely difficult to pull up between the
other yachts and secure our lines. Frustratingly,
it took us a couple of hours to achieve
the task and Captain Pugwash had to replace
a broken bow thruster in the process.
The cold Perlenbacher had to wait as
we grappled with securing the lines, elusive
capstans on the dock and a very animated
local harbourmaster barking orders in
a Greek dialect that none of us onboard
understood.
Contributed Article | 145

Ios is an attractive island with the main
town Chora, also known as the Village, a
dazzling mix of white houses and bluedomed
churches high up on the hills. The
port of Gialos is on the western side and
offers an attractive amphitheatre providing
good protection from the winds. After
the difficulties of securing a safe tie-up we
enjoyed a sunset drink and then a wonderful
supper at a quayside taverna, with fresh
whitebait and generous serves of Kokkino
Krasi (red wine).
DAY 3: IOS TO SANTORINI
Whilst the first two days on board
were filled with amazing memories, Day
Three promised to be extra special. Finally,
I would have the experience I had always
dreamt of—sailing to and through the
incredible Santorini caldera.
Before leaving Ios, I strolled from the
quay to the pristine sandy cove at Koumpara
on the western side of the harbour for
a swim. It was surprisingly cool and quiet
which made the experience even more
enjoyable. By mid-morning the day was
rapidly warming up.
Later that morning we set sail south
for Santorini (officially known by the
Greeks as “Thira”), still with favourable,
moderate winds from the north-west.
Again, it would take an afternoon to sail
the 25 nautical mile (46 km / 29 mi) distance
at a comfortable speed of 10 knots.
There were long periods of silence apart
from the wind in the sails and the gentle
slap of the Aegean against Kop’s hull.
At around 5:00 PM, the striking black
volcanic rock that is Santorini gradually
came into view. It was another tantalising
hour before we reached the northern
entrance to its caldera. It is an awe-inspiring
sight as the 300-metre-high (984 ft)
vertical black cliffs come into clear focus. It
is difficult to explain this incredible scene
with mere words. However, the saying “a
picture is worth a thousand words” might
have been written with this wondrous
sight, acknowledged as one of the world’s
most captivating natural wonders, in mind.
The Santorini caldera was the result of
a volcanic eruption some 3,400 years ago
that wiped out many other communities
on the surrounding islands, including the
Bronze Age Minoan civilisation on the
island of Crete about 120 kilometres (75
mi) to the south.
Some historians have even inferred
a link between Moses leading the Jews
from Egypt to the Promised Land and the
biblical “parting of the waters”, believed to
be a tidal shift resulting from the eruption.
Others have suggested Santorini could also
146 Globerovers · July 2021

A Greek Island Odyssey
be the location of the mythical “Lost City
of Atlantis”, which the Athenian philosopher
Plato first mentioned in his writings
over 2,300 years ago.
The experience of actually sailing
beneath these enormous black cliffs plunging
into the deep blue sea is unforgettable.
The unique Aegean royal blue waters seem
even darker here—possibly a combination
of the shadowy reflection from the cliffs
and the extremely deep water. Added to
this is the stark contrast of the blindingly
white Cycladic houses clinging to the top
and upper levels of the black rock of the
cliffs. I believe it to be one of the planet’s
most awe-inspiring natural scenes.
The delightful sail through the caldera
at a leisurely five knots took us approximately
two hours, and again the everreliable
Perlenbacher beer was on hand to
make the experience even more sublime.
I am sure the memory is now indelibly
etched into my psyche, as the sights,
sounds, smells and feelings all come back
so easily.
At dusk we reached our planned mooring
at the Almyra Marina on the south
side of the island. As the marina was full
of tourist charter boats, we had to find
safe anchorage about 100 metres (328 ft)
offshore, close to another yacht.
Another unforgettable sight was in
store for us when approximately 30 charter
boats sailed out of the marina in strict
single file, like work-ants, past us to an
open water vantage point for the sunset.
With music blaring and the excited chatter
of the occupants on board, the juxtaposition
of man and nature was set.
Summer sunsets over these islands
are a major attraction for tourists from all
over the world. It is an evening ritual to
watch the glowing orange sun disappearing
over the horizon. Just like the obedient
sun-worshippers from ancient times, the
faithful work-ant yachts returned dutifully
to the marina in single file, before disgorging
their occupants so their partying could
continue on land.
Alone on Kop and far from the madding
crowd, we were very pleased to enjoy
the sunset in solitude while sipping on a
frosty Perlenbacher.
Contributed Article | 147

148 Globerovers · July 2021

A Greek Island Odyssey
DAY 4. DESTINATION: SANTO-
RINI CALDERA
Today was the day for exploring the
island, after rowing ashore in Kop’s tender
and hiring a car from the marina. First
stop was the restored underground ruins of
Akrotiri, a village that had been engulfed
in volcanic lava and ash when the volcano
erupted.
Akrotiri was once a Minoan outpost
on the southwestern tip of the island and
is one of the most inspiring archaeological
sites in the Cyclades. It was only discovered
in its entirety in 1967 when archaeologists
unearthed the complete settlement, which
remained well-preserved after some 3,500
years of burial under tonnes of volcanic ash.
Despite the fact that the island is a
mecca for tourists from all over the world,
we were able to gain easy access and
enjoyed exploring this unique piece of
archaeological history.
From Akrotiri, we visited a wellknown
winery and took a guided tour of
the vineyard. Viticulture has become a
major industry for the island over the past
20-odd years, and Santorini wines are now
exported throughout Greece and other
parts of Europe. In our drive around the
island we noticed vast areas now under
vines, adding much-needed greenery to
this otherwise stark volcanic rock. For the
13,000 local inhabitants, this burgeoning
industry provides a welcome and far less
intrusive alternative income to the mass
tourism which has been their major source
of revenue.
Our final evening on board Kop was
spent enjoying a fine meal with local
wines, as we contemplated the awesome
day we had spent exploring this amazing
place. We now understood why Santorini
is often nominated as a top travel destination.
Apart from its stunningly beautiful
natural geological landscape, it is a vibrant
and self-supporting island with its own
unique appeal.
In four magical days, I had realised my
dream of sailing the Aegean and exploring
the magnificent Santorini caldera. Now it
was time to return home to Syros, and start
planning my next adventure.
Contributed Article | 149

Horrifying
More Horrifying
If you don’t pick it up, they will
150 Globerovers · July 2021

Your Waste is Fatal
Keep Our Marine Life Safe
151

Ta st yTraveller's Treats
Authentic, affordable, clean food is every traveller’s dream.
Enjoy these tasty morsels from far-away places.
Thailand
Thailand
Thailand
Thailand
152 Globerovers · July 2021

Cambodia
Laos Russia
Greece
Japan
Japan Thailand
Myanmar Vietnam
Russia
Myanmar Australia Hong Kong
Hong Kong
Greece
Thailand South Africa
Hong Kong
Hong Kong Japan
Cambodia Myanmar
Russia
153

9 Untamed Island Escapes
Incredible
Our planet is blessed with thousands of idyllic islands that have noteworthy attractions. Islands making this Top 9 List have
a fantasy factor like being a castaway on a remote island, fascinating locals, rare animals, unusual natural attractions or extreme
weather conditions. Honourable mentions not quite making the list include the islands of Palawan (Philippines), Flores
(Indonesia), Kauai (Hawaii, USA), and Lord Howe Island (Australia).
1
Surin Islands
THAILAND
Along the west coast of Thailand in the north Andaman Sea just
south of Myanmar, lies the idyllic Surin Archipelago with two large
islands—Koh Surin Nuea and Koh Surin Tai; and three smaller
islands—Koh Ri, Koh Kai, and Koh Klang.
On Koh Surin Nuea, the National Parks offi ce rents bungalows at
Chong Khat Bay and tents on the picturesque and quiet Mai Ngam
Beach. The snorkelling in this large bay with shallow waters and
rich coral gardens is phenomenal, as are other snorkelling spots
around the archipelago. Most of the beaches here are protected
turtle-breeding grounds, and the smooth, pristine waters with
aquamarine hues are some of the most beautiful in the world.
2
Galápagos Islands
3
ECUADOR
Svalbard Islands
NORWAY
The Galápagos is an archipelago of volcanic islands spread
around the equator, nearly 1,000 km (621 mi) west of the Ecuadorian
mainland. The islands are famous for their endemic
species which supported Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution by
natural selection in the 1830s. They are also known for their volcanic
rocks, turquoise waters and diverse ecosystem.
The best way to experience these natural wonders is to board a
safari boat for a week or two. Boats travel between the islands at
night and offer daytime hiking and snorkelling excursions to see the
unique fl ora and fauna. The islands are a nature lover’s dream and
an eco-traveller’s paradise. They are home to some of the most colorful
creatures in the world, including iguanas, tortoises, penguins,
seals and rare birds. Most of the creatures are unafraid of humans!
Formerly known by the Dutch name Spitsbergen, the Svalbard
Islands (Spitsbergen being the largest), form an archipelago north
of Norway in the Arctic Ocean, about 1,050 km (652 mi) from the
North Pole. Once notorious for walrus and whale hunting, and coal
mining, it is better known nowadays for scientifi c research, polar
bear watching, North Pole expeditions, and determined travellers
who want to get close to the top of the world.
Svalbard is one of the world’s largest untouched wilderness areas
with vast expanses of untamed nature. Among the many exciting
activities here are dog-sledding, snowmobiling, ice caving, polar
bear spotting and cross-country skiing. The area is home to about
3,000 polar bears which are easier to see in the summer when
there is less snow.
154 Globerovers · July 2021

4
Tanna Island
5
Goidhoo Atoll
6
VANUATU
THE MALDIVES
Zamami Island
OKINAWA, JAPAN
The South Pacifi c archipelago of Vanuatu
is located in Melanesia, east of Australia,
and is famous for its diving and snorkelling,
tropical islands, volcanoes, beaches,
fi shing, kava bars, and friendly locals.
Visit remote Tanna Island for its black
sand beaches, the Blue Cave, wild horses
and to see one of the world’s most active
volcanoes, Mount Yasur. Watch the Yakel
tribe perform their sunset dance and learn
more about the island’s “cargo cults”
which developed in the mid-1900s when
foreign troops descended on the tribes.
The Maldives is a paradise on earth.
It has thousands of islands, sandbanks
and atolls with beautiful beaches and
clear, turquoise waters, which makes it
very challenging to decide which part of
the country to visit.
For a less touristy location where you
can spend the whole day without seeing
any other people, head to Goidhoo Atoll.
Accommodation is available on the tiny
islands of Goidhoo and Fulhadhoo from
where it is easy to explore other islands
such as Fehendhoo and Innafushi.
Known in Japan as Okinawa Shotō,
Okinawa consists of more than two dozen
islands scattered around the main island,
Okinawa Honto.
Just 50 minutes west by ferry lies one of
Okinawa’s jewel islands—Zamami. The
island is known for its brilliant blue waters
which are best viewed at Furuzamami
Beach where the blue is offset by the brilliant
white coral sands. This is a paradise
on earth with excellent diving and snorkelling,
white sand beaches, a rugged interior,
and the finest Japanese hospitality.
7
Atauro Island
8
Ilha Grande
9
EAST TIMOR
BRAZIL
Azores Islands
PORTUGAL
Atauro Island is only 25 km (15 mi) north
of Dili, the capital of East Timor. As the
third-youngest country in the world, East
Timor is not yet set up for tourism as its
infrastructure is underdeveloped.
Atauro Island is surrounded by incredible
diving and snorkelling sites and was
named “the world’s most biodiverse body
of water” in 2016. There are only a handful
of accommodation options, but those
who wander here will be delighted by
the natural attractions of this remote and
tourist-free island.
Brazil’s coastline measures 7,491 km
(4,655 mi), 15th-longest in the world, and
it is blessed with several idyllic islands in
the Atlantic Ocean and Amazon Delta.
Ilha Grande, about 140 km (87 mi) west
of Rio de Janeiro, is part of a large group
of islands in the Atlantic Ocean and is still
largely undeveloped. Almost entirely covered
by lush rainforest, this rugged island
has some of the most pristine beaches
including the three km (1.9 mi) long Lopes
Mendes Beach, voted one of Brazil’s 10
most beautiful beaches.
The Azores are a Portuguese archipelago
in the North Atlantic Ocean, located about
1,400 km (870 mi) west of Lisbon. The
nine larger islands and eight smaller
islands extend for more than 600 km (373
mi). The island of São Miguel is the largest,
easiest to reach, and arguably has the
most attractions.
This is truly a stunning off-the-beaten-path
destination with volcanic geography that
includes azure crater lakes, hot springs,
volcanic steam vents, cloud forests, waterfalls
and a rugged coastline.
155

Po st c a r ds
Privet Mommy,
I’m sipping a vodka with
omul fish while watching the
sunset over Lake Baikal
at the town of Listvyanka,
Siberia, RUSSIA.
Mom, that’s frozen water,
and people are hiking and
skating and cross-country
skiing on the ice that covers
the deepest lake on earth.
Incredible, don’t you think?
I’m getting so tipsy now!
Tata, Lizzy.
Sawasdee Mom,
I’m in THAILAND where
about half of its roughly
4,000 elephants live in
captivity. Almost all of
these elephants work to
entertain tourists. Mom,
animals do not exist for our
entertainment, as many are
abused or mistreated just
to make money for their
owners. It is very sick to
see tourists riding them to
get their holiday thrill.
Love you! Liz
Cześć! Ma,
Remember the movie
“Schindler’s List”? This is
the end of the Holocaust
train lines in Auschwitz
II - Birkenau, POLAND.
After arriving, most people
were executed. It is very
emotional to be here.
Love you so much! Liz
156 Globerovers · July 2021

to Mommy
... by Lizzy
Xin chào Ma,
I am south of Ho Chi
Minh City in the town of
Bến Tre, Mekong Delta,
VIETNAM.
I walked through the fresh
market and saw some
shops selling little birds
with their legs tied together
with a string. It is very sad
how these people abuse the
beautiful birds. They have
no respect for animals.
Sad Lizzy.
Sawasdee Mom,
Thailand is more than islands and elephants! I am now
at Phanom Rung, a Hindu Khmer Empire temple
complex, near Nang Rong in Buriram, THAILAND.
It was built between the 10th and 13th centuries. Pretty
amazing, hey! Say hi to Leon. From Lizzy.
Zdravo Mom,
This morning I was looking
around the market of
Bascarsija in the Turkish
area, Sarajevo, BOSNIA
& HERZEGOVINA.
I found this man sitting on a
bench in the sun. He looked
pleased with himself. I love
the local ćevapi kebabs!
Lovies, Liz.
Postcards to Mommy |
157

More
Postcards to Mommy
Privet Mommy,
It’s bitterly cold and I’m
exploring the ice-caves at
Cape Sagan-Khushun
on Olkhon Island, Lake
Baikal, Siberia, RUS-
SIA. The scenery is truly
exquisite and I am warmly
dressed so don’t worry!
Tata Mom, Lizzy
Yassas Mom,
I love the Greek Islands so I’m enjoying the views
from the Old Fortress, Old Corfu town, Corfu
Island, GREECE. Luv, Lizzy
Hola Mommy,
I’m doing the 3-day hike
along the original Inca Trail
to Machu Picchu, PERU.
This is my second night and
I’m sleeping at Paqaymayu
at an altitude of 3,500
metres. Last night in the
tent was torture but the
scenery is incredible!
Love, Lizzy
158 Globerovers · July 2021

... by Lizzy
Annyeong haseyo Mommy,
Don’t worry mom, I’m not here again. This is an old postcard that never
left this country, so I’m sending it again. Here I was at the Mass Dance
on National Day, the day of the founding of North Korea, Pyongyang,
NORTH KOREA. It was such an amazing trip. Lizzy.
Olá Mom,
I’m spending two weeks with a local family in a remote part
of the swamps! This is a baby caiman in the Pantanal Wetlands,
BRAZIL. There are millions of these creatures in these
swamps! I saw lots of capybaras too. Love you! Lizzy.
Tashi deleg Mom,
I’m ending off with this
beautiful postcard from
Tashi Lhunpo Monastery,
Shigatse, TIBET. This
monastery was founded in
1447 by the 1st Dalai Lama.
It is located on a hill in the
centre of Shigatse, the second
largest city in Tibet.
That’s it for now until December.
I am almost vaccinated
against Covid-19, so don’t
worry too much about me.
Tata Mom, Lizzy
Postcards to Mommy | 159

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160 Globerovers · July 2021

161

SUPER
TRAVELLER SPOTLIGHT
in the
A GlobeRovers Q&A with Ric Gazarian of www.globalgaz.com
Ric Gazarian (globalgaz.com)
Ric Gazarian is an avid traveller, travel blogger,
professional photographer, drone pilot, author,
podcaster, documentary producer and industry
speaker.
He is on a quest to visit every country in the
world, has visited all seven continents and has
travelled to over 140 countries.
Ric has produced two documentaries: Hit The
Road: India and Hit The Road: Cambodia.
Ric drove a tuk tuk for 2,000 km (1,243 mi) across India and 1,400
km (869 mi) across Cambodia. The films trace his adventures
across these countries.
Endeavor to visit the eastern part of the country which is virtually
untouched.
• Algeria — This is the largest country in Africa but not often
mentioned when people talk about planning trips to Africa.
Nonetheless the country offers so much: Roman ruins, rich
history and beautiful Saharan landscapes. It’s easy to get around
and it is cheap.
GR: Which is your most preferred country for travel?
RG: Myanmar. I have been here five times over the last 15 years and
it is simply not enough. I have barely scratched the surface. I am
continually amazed at the pure magic of the temples of Bagan and
the Shwedagon Pagoda. Beyond that are the more remote temples
of Mrauk U or the face tattoo women of Mindat. And the islands
in the Andaman Sea are absolute perfection.
GlobeRovers Magazine (GR): We talked with Ric Gazarian about
his travels and started by asking how many United Nations
member states he has visited.
Ric Gazarian (RG): I have been to 142 UN recognized countries.
GR: What are your top 5 preferred countries for leisure travel?
RG: Here are my top 5 not in order of preference:
• Armenia — This compact country offers so much … ancient
culture, historical landmarks, diverse landscapes, and great food.
Yerevan is one of my favorite capitals to hang around, relax and
enjoy the cafes. It is easy to get around and has a great cost
structure.
• Thailand — There is a reason why this country is on the top of
so many people’s lists. Thailand is a great introduction to South
East Asia. Bangkok is a world class city, which offers amazing
rooftop restaurants and incredible temples. Up north, you can
trek in the mountains and explore landscapes. And of course the
islands, you can party in Koh Samui or Phuket or chill out on a
small island and have the beach to yourself.
• Uzbekistan — This is another country that offers so much! You
can go to the west and explore the dying Aral Sea and a world class
art museum in the remote city of Nukus. I had such high expectations
for the Silk Road and was not disappointed when I finally
witnessed the beauty of Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand. Uzbekistan
has great tourist infrastructure, and the prices are great.
• Bhutan — This is one of those fabled countries that in many
ways is an accurate portrayal of the myth. This mystical
kingdom is set in the Himalayas and severely limits tourism.
Phuket Vegetarian Festival, Thailand.
GR: Where do you wish you were right now?
RG: Libya. I have not been to a new country since March of 2020
when I left Gambia and spent a year in Bangkok to wait out Covid.
My next scheduled trip to a new country is Libya. This country has
been on the list for a while, and the security situation is improving
allowing for some additional exploration of the country. Leptis
Magna is one of the best-preserved Roman Ruins in the world and
is untouched by tourism.
GR: Among those countries you have not yet visited, which ones
are at the top of your “must-do” list?
RG: Everything I haven’t visited, but some of the tops are the Kingdom
of Saudi Arabia, Turkmenistan, Papua New Guinea and more!
162 Globerovers · July 2021

GR: You still have not visited some countries in Africa and
northern South America. What are your priorities to visit these
countries?
RG: Djibouti has been on my list for a long time. I’ve had two trips
scheduled before which were cancelled. I have seen a lot of pictures
of Lac Abbe, which is on the border of Ethiopia, and this place
seems unworldly in a magnificent way. Planet of the Apes in 1968
was filmed there.
I recently went through some old photos of when I was kid and realized
I had visited Venezuela with my parents. It is difficult to count
this visit since I only can recall one memory from this trip. Angel
Falls is at the top of my list to visit. It looks absolutely stunning.
While it is not a UN country, I am hoping to visit the French Guiana
Space Centre and even better to see an actual space launch.
GR: If you could spend the rest of your life somewhere other
than your current home country, which country would that be
and why?
RG: I have been based in Bangkok for the last seven years, so this
has really been my home. Bangkok to me offers a great mix of East
and West, old and new. Bangkok has all of the modern conveniences
and is a great launching point to everywhere in Thailand as
well as South East Asia.
GR: Please tell us about the most incredible and memorable
experience(s) you have ever had while travelling?
RG: I will note my experience of visiting the Phuket Vegetarian
Festival (where I incidentally met the publisher of this magazine).
I had been aware of this festival for years but finally was able to
visit during my year of Covid in Thailand. It is difficult to give this
festival its due in a couple of sentences but suffice to say it was an
amazing week.
GR: Where was the biggest cultural shock you have ever experienced
while travelling?
RG: I will always be amazed with Ghardaia in the M’Zab Valley
in Algeria. There is a small series of walled towns in the heart of
the Sahara. The people here are very traditional. I have seen the
niqab and the burqa countless times, but the dress for women was
startling to view in the valley. The women dressed in a white niqab
with only one eye visible.
GR: What is the most challenging destination you have ever
visited?
RG: I always pick on Ethiopia. I spent over two weeks here and I
had such high expectations. The country has such rich traditions,
ancient history, and diverse cultures. But unfortunately, the people
were not great and really detracted from the experience. Locals
chased me, threw stones, attempted a daylight mugging, and had a
constant stream of demands for money. I had only a few genuinely
positive interactions on my entire trip.
GR: Based on your travel experiences, if you were to recommend
the one most amazing destination for intrepid travellers, which
place would that be?
RG: Federated States of Micronesia. I visited one of their four
states, Yap. This place is pretty remote. A great mix of culture and
beauty. This island was so laid back. I enjoyed the great snorkelling,
WWII history, and the famous Stone Money.
GR: Which people by nationality or subgroup would you say
have been the most hospitable during your travels?
RG: Many people will say Thailand and I will second the vote. The
Thais are friendly and welcoming. Often, I will say just one or two
words in Thai and I will be showered with smiles and compliments.
In contrast, I have been yelled at for trying to speak Russian in the
former USSR more than once.
Mergui Archipelago, Burma (Myanmar)
Spotlight | 163

Menʼs Meeting House, Yap, Federated States of Micronesia.
GR: What are the travel apps you use most often while travelling
and why do you find them so useful?
RG: Tripit is really a fantastic and useful tool. The app organizes
all of my travel plans in an easy-to-view interface. It also sends
automated flight updates.
I just started using Portico which is a travel planning tool. You
are able to organize travel ideas and websites by country or bucket
list. It seems to be a good mechanism to keep track of trips you are
planning.
GR: Let’s talk about food. Which one country that you visited
has the best food in the world?
RG: I am cheating a bit and will give you a region—Syria, Lebanon,
Jordan, and Israel. In general, I am usually a very picky eater and
Arabic food is hands down my favourite. So when I am in that
region I am in food heaven from hummus to falafel to shawarma. I
am hoping to go back again to plan an eating tour.
GR: Where was the best meal you have ever had during your
travels?
RG: I was getting ready for the Pamir Highway and had a pre-dinner
in Osh at an outdoor restaurant. Plate after plate of Shashlik combined
with fresh salads and vegetables was presented. It was impossible
to finish this delicious meal and it was only a couple of dollars.
GR: And where was the worst food during your travels?
RG: I really hate mayonnaise. I was in Goris in southern Armenia.
It was late evening and I was at maybe the only open restaurant,
Phanom Rung Temple, Buriram, Thailand.
a newer modern café. To play it safe, I ordered a margarita pizza
— cheese, tomato, bread. The pizza was eventually delivered, and
it was slathered in mayonnaise. I snapped. I made a scene. My
friend who had accompanied me went back the following year, and
the staff assured my friend that they no longer put mayonnaise on
the pizza. I guess I made an impact since they still recognized him.
GR: What is the weirdest place you have ever spent a night?
RG: I had booked a private room in a hostel in Tiraspol, Transnistria,
a breakaway republic of Moldova. My guide met me at the bus
station and brought me to the hostel, except it wasn’t a hostel but
his apartment. I ended up sleeping on the couch next to him and
his 19 year old girlfriend for the weekend.
GR: Based on all your travel experiences, what is the best tip you
can offer to new travellers?
RG: Don’t make excuses, get out there and travel. Learn and live..
GR: What is the single best lesson you have learned about the
world during your travels?
RG: I think it is really important to bring a healthy dose of perspective.
Many western travellers have had a life of privilege which has
allowed them to travel. Billions around the world have a totally
different perspective based upon their hardships and experiences.
GR: What is the main focus of your travels?
RG: My goal is to visit every country in the world. The UN states
there are 193 member states. I view this goal as a mechanism to see
Hua Lamphong Railway Station, Bangkok, Thailand.
164 Globerovers · July 2021

and witness amazing things that I would have never known about.
One example I always share is my trip to Burundi. I wasn’t overly
enthused to visit but had an awesome experience in receiving a
private performance of the amazing Royal Burundi Drummers.
GR: You have a very popular travel blog and you have a strong social
media following. Some posts are much liked and reposted while
others are not. What do you think makes a travel post popular?
RG: Well, I probably would be a lot more successful if I could
answer this question. In short, I am not an expert when it comes
to keywords or SEO, I simply write and photograph what I find
interesting. My post about the Principality of Sealand is my most
visited post.
GR: Travel bloggers who visit off-the-beaten-track destinations,
or secret city spots, often have a hard time deciding on whether
they should keep the secret, or broadcast it to the world to gain
lots of attention and new followers (and likely change that secret
location and its people’s lives forever). What are your thoughts
on this? Should we keep the secrets?
RG: Great question. The answer is yes and no. Isan is a large rural province
in Thailand that is visited by only a couple of percent of visitors
to Thailand. It is a vast area that offers so much. So bloggers would
be doing a service to Thailand and the people of Isan by increasing the
level of tourism. But then you have Venice or Dubrovnik which have
become Disney-fied with locals fleeing their homes.
GR: Since the Feature Article of this issue of GlobeRovers Magazine
is about the unexplored beaches on Thailand’s islands, do you
have any “secret” islands or beaches that you can share with us?
RG: I visited Koh Mak three times over my year of Covid in Thailand.
Only 400 people live there and there is no 7-Eleven (which
are ubiquitous in Thailand). I found this great hotel on the beach.
It was a great place to relax, swim, eat and rent a motorbike and
drive around. A slice of heaven.
GR: What are your favourite islands in Thailand and why?
RG: I love them all from big to small, to popular to off-the-beaten
path. I lived in Koh Samui for a couple of months and Phuket for
four months. These islands are big and diverse enough to create the
experience you want.
GR: Let’s talk about travel after Covid-19. Once countries are
open to international visitors and airlines are flying again, how
do you think your travel behaviour and travel experiences will
change over the next 12 months?
RG: I spent the first year of Covid in Thailand, arguably one of the
best places to be in the world. Fortunately, I was able to explore
Thailand during that time period and had so many great experiences.
Since March of 2021, I have been in the US, which ended up
also being a great place to be during the latter part of Covid. While
I desperately missed travel and had over 20 trips cancelled, it didn’t
make a ton of sense to travel during a pandemic. I have been fully
vaccinated for several months and there is only so much patience
I can maintain, I am now planning international trips once again.
My hope is that some sort of vaccine passport is created so I do not
have to get PCR tests everywhere I go.
And finally, let us do a few rapid-fire questions...
• Favourite airline? AirAsia.
• Favourite cities? Bangkok, Yerevan.
• Favourite islands? Maldives.
• Beach or mountain? Beach.
• Couch or camping? Couch.
• Bus or train? Train.
• The best words to describe yourself? A passion to be
amazed.
Thank you Ric for sharing your travel wisdom with us. Hope
we soon can read all about your travels through Djibouti, the
Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Turkmenistan, Papua New Guinea
and many more! Best of luck and safe travels!
Follow Ric Gazarian
Ghardaia, Algeria.
A “dhzong” (fort and monastery), Bhutan.
BLOG
globalgaz.com
FACEBOOK
GlobalGaz
TWITTER
Global_Gaz
INSTAGRAM
GlobalGaz
YOUTUBE
GlobalGaz
PODCAST
“Counting Countries” at
globalgaz.com
Spotlight | 165

BOOK REVIEW
Embrace of the Wild
by Linda Ballou
Now available at
Amazon.com
lostangeladventures.com
Twitter @ LindaBallou
Facebook @ linda.ballou.52
GlobeRovers Magazine talks with Linda Ballou about
her new book: Embrace of the Wild.
From her roots in Alaska Linda Ballou received strength,
centeredness, and respect for the awful power of nature.
This carried her forward into an adventure travel writing
career. Her latest novel Embrace of the Wild is inspired
by the life of Isabella Bird, a fearless Victorian Age
explorer and best-loved travel writer of her day. Linda’a
travel memoir Lost Angel Walkabout is an armchair
traveler’s delight that takes you to Alaska, New Zealand,
Hawai’i and the Wild West. In her handbook Lost Angel in
Paradise Linda shares her favorite day trips on the Coast
of California. Learn more about her travels at:
www.LostAngelAdventures.com and her novels at:
www.LindaBallouAuthor.com
GlobeRovers Magazine (GR): What inspired you to write
Embrace of the Wild?
Linda Ballou (LB): I have long admired Isabella Lucy Bird (1831-
1904), the plucky Englishwoman who rode solo in the Rockies in
I873. I am an equestrian and have ridden in many of the places
she describes in her book A Lady’s Life in the Rockies. I used her
book Six Months in the Sandwich Islands to capture details for
my first novel Wai-nani: A Voice from Old Hawai’i. I learned that
her youth was filled with chronic pain and that to become a travel
writer she had to overcome social and physical barriers. I thought
her unlikely relationship with the ruffian Rocky Mountain Jim was
a beautiful love story. After her time in Colorado, she journeyed to
China, Tibet, Japan and other far flung outposts and became the
first woman inducted into the Scottish Geographical Society. With
so many connections and my love of Hawai’i and Colorado, I felt
her story was one I wanted to tell.
GR: What type of research did you do for writing Embrace of
the Wild?
LB: I lived on the North shore of Kauai in 1978. While I was
there, I found my heroine for my novel Wai-nani: A Voice from
Old Hawai’i. I read all the oldest chronicles, interviewed elders,
explored all of the islands, and wrote many articles about my
times there. Isabella’s book, as I mentioned was one of my sources
for details about the Islands while writing Wai-nani. For my article
“Have Boots Will Travel” I toured the San Juan Mountains and ran
into Isabella again! I returned to Colorado to visit Estes Park that
she wrote about so lovingly. My essay “Riding in the Hoof Prints
of Isabella Bird” won the Solas Award from Travel Tales publications.
Now, I want to go back Colorado to spread the news about
Embrace of the Wild.
166 Globerovers · July 2021

Linda is the adventure travel expert
for the National Association of Baby
Boomer Women. You will fi nd a host
of travel articles on her site:
www.LostAngelAdventures.com.
For more about her novels and her
media offerings go to:
www.LindaBallouAuthor.com.
All of Linda’s books are listed on her
Amazon Profi le.
Linda has several talks she loves to
share about her travels and books
with book clubs and other venues.
Zoom is still the best way to share.
You can contact her at:
lballou6@gmail.com
GR: What do you want people to take away
from your book?
LB: My theme song is that nature can be our
salvation. Isabella, is suffering from chronic
illness and melancholy in Scotland. When she
lands in the life-affirming Hawaiian Islands, she
breaks free from convention, breathes deeply of
the natural world and becomes fit. In Colorado
she meets the unlikely soulmate Rocky Mountain
Jim. They are both badly damaged people who
find strength and solace and spiritual peace in
the majesty of the Rocky Mountains. She becomes
centered in the solitude of her mountain
cabin in Estes Park. Nature can be the antidote
to our often too busy world is a message modern
people can apply.
GR: What do you have coming up next that you
can tell us about?
LB: My adventure travel wings were clipped for
the year of the virus! I am chomping at the bit
for more outdoor adventures to write about.
Meanwhile, I am working on my next travel collection
Lost Angel Unleashed which will include
some travel memoirs from my youth in Alaska,
as well as stories about new adventures. Writing
Embrace of the Wild saved my sanity during the
pandemic, but it is time to get back on the road!
Book Review | 167

BOOK REVIEW
PURE
by Benjamin Goode
Now available at
benjamingoode.com.au
Instagram @ benjamingoode
Facebook @ benjamingoode.com.au
www.patreon.com/earthartphotography
GlobeRovers Magazine talks with Benjamin Goode
about his new book: PURE.
Benjamin Goode is an award-winning professional landscape
photographer with a graphic design background
who loves nothing better than capturing nature’s beauty.
He has travelled all over the world, but his favourite place
on earth is South Australia’s Kangaroo Island and its natural
attractions, which he introduces to readers through
stunning photography in his second book PURE. His
images have appeared in publications worldwide, and in
advertising and fundraising campaigns. Visit his website
benjamingoode.com.au for more about his books,
photography and other products.
GlobeRovers Magazine (GR): What is your book PURE about?
Benjamin Goode (BG): PURE is a limited edition hardcover book
featuring 116 pages of stunning images that will take readers on
a photographic journey around Australia’s Kangaroo Island. The
photos are some of my favourite landscape and wildlife shots that
illustrate the beauty of the island, located a few kilometres off the
South Australian coast and also known as “KI”.
GR: What inspired you to publish PURE?
BG: I have spent over 15 years exploring and capturing the
landscapes and wildlife of KI, and it is one of my favourite places
on earth. When the 2020 fires swept through KI, I was absolutely
shattered. Places I adored would not look the same again for a
long time—and the wildlife population had been decimated. After
browsing through the many photos I had taken of the island, I
realised I had a collection of precious “before” memories so I
decided to publish my second book featuring some of them. I believe
printed images are more powerful than those on a screen, so
creating something where people could physically turn the pages
was important to me.
Australia, and my favourite location there is KI. It is one of the
most unique and unspoilt places I have visited. The combination
of world class beaches, wilderness, beauty and incredible wildlife
is amazing! I consider myself very lucky to have such an island on
my doorstep. I don’t know of any other place where I can have a
Sea Lion slide under my tripod in the morning, photograph one
of the world’s great beaches at midday, and spend sunset shooting
some truly “remarkable” coastal rocks.
GR: What are your favourite spots on Kangaroo Island?
BG: As much as I love the popular spots like Remarkable Rocks
and Vivonne Bay, for me it’s Western River Cove and the North
Coast. The lack of tourists, gum-lined dirt roads, stunning sandy
coves and rolling hills keep me coming back. I’m also a big fan of
West Bay, a beautiful isolated beach on the far west coast.
GR: What did you hope to achieve with your book?
BG: Firstly, I wanted to create something that showcased the
beauty of the Kangaroo Island that I knew and loved before it was
ravaged by fires. Secondly, I wanted to use the book to help raise
money for the people on KI who were directly affected by the
GR: How does KI compare to other places you’ve travelled?
BG: I have visited many places throughout the world, but my
favourite country remains Australia, my favourite state is South
168 Globerovers · July 2021

think of. Within a few months it was replacing graphic design as
my main creative passion. Within a year I was selling my photos
online through stock agencies.
fires. I wanted PURE to be both a reminder of this special place
for those who already know and love it; and an introduction to its
beauty for people who haven’t yet been there.
GR: How did you go about getting funding for the book?
BG: After using the crowdfunding website “Kickstarter” to raise
funds for my first book, I decided once again to go down that path
for PURE. Thankfully, hundreds of people from around the world
supported the project and I donated every cent above the publication
costs to the KI bushfire fund. I ended up raising over A$5000
for those in need, and all my backers had the satisfaction of helping
to make this project possible.
GR: How did you get into photography?
BG: I come from a graphic design background, so I’ve always
had a love of creating beautiful visual images. Back in 2004 I was
working as a freelance designer and had never owned a camera in
my life. I was given my first camera as a present that year and it
was glued to me during a trip to the Cook Islands a month later. I
had no idea how to use it, and it was firmly stuck on AUTO—but
I was addicted.
When I returned from overseas I found myself putting more
and more time into photography—shooting everything I could
After about 10 years of taking photos primarily for stock agencies,
I decided to get more serious about what I really loved—landscape
photography. Being out shooting landscapes gave me such a sense
of freedom and peace. It became my therapy and got me through
some tough times. While shooting stunning scenes, all my worries
seemed to fade away and life became simple. In 2011 I started my
landscape photography business and began the process of taking,
marketing and selling large fine art prints to customers around the
world.
It’s been an incredible journey since then! I have learned so much,
experienced plenty of natural beauty, met some amazing people
and had some awesome opportunities come my way.
GR: How is PURE different to your first book, Southern Comfort?
BG: Southern Comfort is a collection of images from all around
South Australia, whereas PURE is specifically focussed on Kangaroo
Island.
GR: What is your next book going to be about?
BG: I am currently working on my third book entitled Mystery. It
will feature my favourite mist and fog images from around South
Australia, and I expect it to be in stock before December 2021.
GR: How can people purchase PURE?
BG: The book can be purchased through my website:
benjamingoode.com.au, or email: benjamingoode@icloud.com.
Book Review | 169

Experience the beauty and calm of an island paradise in the most elegant of fashions.
Spanning a private 500 meter beach on the tropical island of Koh Rong, Cambodia, The Royal Sands is a
5-star resort offering an intimate glimpse of island life as it was meant to be.
Relax on the white sandy beaches, swim in the crystal-clear ocean waters, admire the exotic wildlife,
gaze at the mesmerizing sunsets, enjoy the freshest foods…
We encourage you to lose yourselves in the breathtaking beauty of this spectacular island...
170 Globerovers · July 2021

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171

In a future issue...
Iceland’s Ring Road Adventures
The Nordic island of Iceland is known for its dramatic landscapes with active and
dormant volcanoes, high spewing geysers, hot springs and vast lava fields, and a
lot more. Some of the planet’s largest glaciers cover much of the surface of the land
while imposing cliffs provide a home to thousands of seabirds. We head out from
the capital, Reykjavík, in an anti-clockwise direction along the circular road around
the island and are mesmerized by its beauty and diversity.
Macedonia’s Seductive Lake Ohrid
Located in the southern part of North Macedonia near the borders with Albania
and Greece, lies Lake Ohrid. Often described as the Balkan Region’s “most seductive
destination”, this large, sublime lake is shared by both Macedonia and Albania.
The town of Ohrid has a lovely historic quarter with cascading cobblestone streets
and is blessed with old churches and the towering ruins of a medieval castle. The
shoreline is dotted with small villages and pristine natural attractions.
Road-tripping The Kimberley, Western Australia
Road-trip the remote and spectacular outback and coastal landscapes of northwestern
Australia’s Kimberley region, one of the most sparsely populated places on
earth. Drive over 1,000 km from Kununurra, the eastern gateway, to coastal pearling
town Broome taking a few detours along the way to see unusual land formations
and rocky gorges, waterfalls and crocodile-infested waterholes, lookouts and
river systems, long stretches of beach and some of the highest tides in the world.
Costa Rica - Cloud Forests to the Caribbean Coast
Costa Rica is one of the most ecologically diverse countries in the world with some
of the best natural attractions such as mountains, beaches, cloud forests, wildlife,
active volcanoes, hot springs, and so on. We explore the Monteverde Cloud Forest
Biological Reserve along the Cordillera de Tilarán mountain range and then moved
south-east to the Rastafarian village of Cahuita along the Caribbean Sea, to photograph
the Cahuita National Park and Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge.
The Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Phuket Island
Phuket Island’s “Nine Emperor Gods Festival” is a nine-day Taoist celebration beginning
on the eve of the 9th lunar month of the Chinese calendar. Popularly known
as the “Phuket Vegetarian Festival”, it is celebrated throughout Thailand and across
Southeast Asia. One of the best places to attend the festival is on Phuket Island
where most of the action happens in Phuket Town. Be warned, many religious devotees
will perform ritualized mutilation upon themselves while in a trance-like state!
Unique Villages of Iran
While Iran’s historical sites, architectural wonders, natural beauty and bustling city
markets are show-stoppers, far beyond these attractions lie quaint villages waiting
to be discovered. Join us on our journey to four of Iran’s most unique villages: the
historic village of Abyaneh, with its red, pastel-coloured adobe houses; the troglodytic
village of Kandovan, with cone-shaped dwellings carved into volcanic cliffs;
the stepped mountain village of Masouleh; and Garmeh, the desert oasis village.
172 Globerovers · July 2021

In the
next issue
Land of fire and ice
THE RING ROAD
OF ICELAND
Future Issue | 173

174 Globerovers · July 2021