Times of the Islands Summer 2021

TIMES 

OF THE 

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2021 NO. 135 

ISLANDS 

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21 RESTAURANTS 

@beachesresorts 

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT BEACHES.COM, CALL 1-800-BEACHES 

OR CALL YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR 

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/timesoftheislandsspring2021 or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and 

conditions. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide 

representative of Beaches Resorts.

contents 

Departments 

6 From the Editor 

17 Remember When 

Born of Necessity 

Story & Photos By Bengt Soderqvist 

24 Eye on the Sky 

Be Prepared 

By Paul Wilkerson 

28 Talking Taíno 

Child’s Play 

By Bill Keegan, Betsy Carlson and 

Michael Pateman 

34 Looking Back 

Bonefish Ahead! 

By Diane Taylor ~ Photos By Marta Morton 

45 Faces & Places 

Snack & Paint 

By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb 

58 Real Estate 

Hot, Hot, Hot! 

By Kathy Borsuk 

77 About the Islands/TCI Map 

81 Subscription Form 

82 Classified Ads 

Feature 

46 The Stars of Our Woods 

By B Naqqi Manco ~ Photos By Marta Morton 

52 Paradise Waiting 

By Jayne Baker ~ 

Photos By Paradise Photography 

Green Pages 

37 A New Hope? 

Story & Photos By Alizee Zimmermann, TCRF 

TIMES 

OF THE 

ISLANDS 

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2021 NO. 135 

On the Cover 

Marta Morton, owner/operator of Harbour Club Villas 

& Marina (www.harbourclubvillas.com) did a careful 

photographic study of a family of Bahama woodstar hummingbirds 

that made their home on the property. Here, 

the two chicks appear ready to burst out of their tiny 

nest. See article on page 46. 

41 Sponging It Up 

Story & Photos By Melissa Heres, SFS 

Astrolabe 

66 If Maps Could Talk . . . 

Story & Images Courtesy Marjorie Sadler 

72 What’s Hiding in Your Closet? 

By Lisa Turnbow-Talbot 

34 

BETH SWANSON–SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 

4 www.timespub.tc

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from the editor 

STL IMAGES 

TCI’s popular Junkanoo celebrations (shown here) morphed from the original tradition of Maskanoo, in which costumes were made from tissue 

paper, newspaper, brown paper and plastic bags. In this way, the past has melded into the present, and culture survives. 

Kudos to Culture 

My family heritage is Czechoslovakian. All four of my grandparents immigrated to the United States in the early 

1900s; one grandmother had to wait two years before she could legally enter and reunite with her husband. As 

children, my siblings and I were blessed to know these relatives from a foreign land, who spoke a different language 

(mostly when it was a topic we shouldn’t hear) and shared a rich heritage from the “Old Country.” Food (pork, dumplings 

and sauerkraut), customs (accordian music and polka dancing), a strong sense of community and caring among 

other immigrants from Europe, values of thrift and hard work, a strong appreciation for the freedoms of America and 

an overarching love for us, their grandchildren, were an important part of our life. 

I say this so readers will understand why the culture of my adopted country—the Turks & Caicos Islands—is so 

important to me. Here, I have long felt “at home,” especially among the older folk. Like my own family, they had to 

work hard, use ingenuity, sacrifice and stick together to survive and thrive. This is reflected in the stories of days 

past that often frequent our pages. 

My fear is that as the TCI grows into a safe haven for the wealthy, it becomes just another gated beach destination 

and loses the charm and uniqueness that have captivated visitors and residents. And so we continue to highlight 

the TCI’s national treasures—environment, people, folkways, history—in the hope of encouraging readers to look 

beneath the surface and study the “soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands.” 

I’m so grateful that we are back in business with a full, extended printing of this issue. We look forward to getting 

it into the hands of the many new travelers who are flocking to the country this summer. 

Kathy Borsuk, Editor • timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788 

6 www.timespub.tc

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YOUR FAMILY 

HAS BEEN AND 

WILL ALWAYS BE 

PRIORITY 

#1 

® 

BEACHES 

THE BRAND YOU CAN 

TRUST 

PHYSICAL 

DISTANCING 

PRACTICES 

11 

1 

SUITE 

CLEANING 

TOUCH 5 

POINTS 

In-Room Bars & 

C o ff e e / T e a S t a t i o n s 

2 All Closet Accessories 

3 Air Ducts 

4 Hard Surfaces 

Television & 

All Electronics 

6 UV-LED Lights 

WE’RE SAFEGUARDING YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME 

PRIVATE 

AIRPORT 

TRANSFERS 

NEW 

AT-HOME 

to 

IN-ROOM 

CHECK-IN 

GUESTS CAN NOW 

CHECK-IN ONLINE, 

LETTING THEM SKIP 

THE FRONT DESK AND 

GO DIRECTLY TO 

THEIR ROOM. 

7 Bed Frame & Furniture 

8 

BEACHES ONLY USES 

PRIVATE TRANSFERS FOR ALL GUESTS. 

As part of the 5-STAR LUXURY EXPERIENCE, 

Beaches guests are never left to fend for 

themselves in crowded airports. Every guest 

is given access to the private lounge reserved 

for Beaches guests. 

Placement Of 

Anti-Bacterial Gels & Soaps 

9 Carpeting And Floors 

10 Soft Furnishings 

11 Bedding & Mattresses 

BATHROOM CLEANING TOUCH POINTS 

9 

1 

2 

Hand Sanitizers For All 

Guests Upon Arrival 

Placement Of Anti-Bacterial 

Gels And Soaps 

3 Floors 

4 Electrical Aerosol Sprayers 

5 Shower 

6 UV-LED Light 

7 

SAFETY 

TO EVERY CORNER OF THE RESORT 

Tub 

8 Air Ducts 

EXCLUSIVE 

A 

9 Hard Surfaces 

that 

I R P O R T 

SPANS 

PRIVATE 

L O U N G E S 

TEMPERATURE 

CHECK 

AT CHECK-IN 

TEMPERATURES 

EXCEEDING 

99.5F/37.5C 

WILL BE CONSIDERED 

OUT OF RANGE.

LEADING THE INDUSTRY IN HEALTH AND SAFETY PROTOCOLS. 

ALWAYS. 

1 Arrival At Our Airport Lounges 

2 Guest Transfers To Our Resorts 

3 Food And Beverage Outlets 

4 Housekeeping & Laundry 

OUR 

TOUCH POINT PRACTICE 

5 Butler Elite Services 

6 Maintenance 

7 Resort Recreational Activities 

8 Guest Rooms 

9 Elevators 

10 Swimming Pools & Whirlpools 

11 Team Members Access Points 

12 Fitness Centers 

13 Bathrooms 

14 Suppliers 

15 All Public Resort & Beach Areas 

16 Back Of House Areas 

17 Red Lane ® Spa 

18 HVAC Systems 

safe 

to slide 

3X 

TRIPLE 

CHECK 

SYSTEM 

FOR CLEANING 

AND 

SANITIZATION 

Prevention is the key to safeguarding the health of our 

employees and guests. We long ago developed a sophisticated 

approach to preventing the spread of illnesses at our 

resorts under the guidance of medical professionals, 

the Centers for Diseases Control and Prevention 

(CDC), World Health Organization (WHO), and the local 

Ministries of Health in each country we call home. We 

have dedicated Quality Inspection Teams and environmental 

health and safety managers at all of our resorts to make 

sure every procedure is in place to protect every guest and 

team member. That even extends to our supply chain. Our 

resorts have always been equipped with full-service 

medical stations staffed daily with a registered nurse 

and 24/7 on-call medical personnel, but we’ve upgraded 

these facilities to include the appropriate equipment 

and supplies needed to address new protocols. So you 

can book your next stay with us knowing that Beaches has 

always been the brand you can trust, and always will be. 

BEACHES.COM l 1-800-BEACHES 

Or Call Your Travel Advisor 

@beachesresorts 

Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Beaches Resorts.

- --- --- 

- --- 

-==--- 

-·---- 

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TIMES 

OF THE 

ISLANDS 

MANAGING EDITOR 

Kathy Borsuk 

ADVERTISING MANAGER 

Claire Parrish 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

Jayne Baker, Kathy Borsuk, Bengt Soderqvist, 

Dr. Betsy Carlson, Melissa Heres, Dr. Bill Keegan, 

Bryan N. Manco, Dr. Michael P. Pateman, 

Jody Rathgeb, Marjorie Sadler, Lisa Turnbow-Talbot, 

Diane Taylor, Paul Wilkerson, Alizee Zimmermann. 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Anna Handte-Reinecker, Melissa Heres, Marinas.com, 

Marta Morton, Paradise Photography, Dr. Michael P. 

Pateman, Provo Pictures, Tom Rathgeb, Marjorie Sadler, 

Bengt Soderqvist, STL Images, Beth Swanson—Shutterstock, 

Lisa Turnbow-Talbot, VisitTCI.com, Alizee Zimmermann. 

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS 

Alejandra Baiz, NOAA, Wavey Line Publishing. 

PRINTING 

PF Solutions, Miami, FL 

Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is 

published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd. 

Copyright © 2021 by Times Publications Ltd. All rights reserved 

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions. 

No part of this publication may be 

reproduced without written permission. 

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for 

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Submissions We welcome submission of articles or photography, but 

assume no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. 

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no 

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any 

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material. 

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Business Office 

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16 www.timespub.tc

emember when 

This is one of the two original planes that comprised Caicos Airways Ltd. (see the CAL logo under the wing). It was a Cessna 180 that belonged 

to Kris Ludington and carried one pilot and three passengers. Pilot Embry Rucker is at left. 

Born of Necessity 

TCI’s first airline comes to life. 

Story & Photos By Bengt Soderqvist 

After Fritz Ludington’s Provident Limited kick-started the development of Providenciales in the fall of 

1966, a lot of changes occurred. Nothing changed more dramatically than the way people were traveling. 

Up until that point, the main modes of transportation had been walking and boating. 

Times of the Islands Summer 2021 17

The sailing sloops were very important and the fact 

that there were so many sailors affected the way people 

spoke. If you lived in Blue Hills you walked up to The 

Bight. (It was upwind.) I recall one time in the early 1970s 

when I tried to locate Hilly Ewing, who was the building 

inspector at the time. Before we had telephones, the best 

way to locate people was to inquire at the airport. On my 

question if anybody had seen Hilly somebody answered, 

“He went up this morning.” He had flown to Grand Turk, 

which is upwind from Providenciales. 

One time, at the Third Turtle’s construction site when 

Alfred Stubbs tried to organize some workers to move 

a concrete mixer, I heard him saying, “Move the stern.” 

Alfred had been a sailor all his life, so even a mixer had a 

bow and a stern. A journey by sloop to Grand Turk from 

Providenciales was a big event in those days, but all that 

was soon to change. 

In the Spring 2021 issue of Times of the Islands, I 

wrote about the original airstrip on Providenciales. In the 

beginning, that strip was mostly used by Fritz when he 

flew to Grand Turk for meetings with the government. 

In Grand Turk he used what we named the “Downtown 

Strip,” which was a dirt road just north of St. Thomas 

Church. According to Dr. Leo Astwood, Frankie Jones 

from Bermuda, who was the District Commissioner in 

South Caicos in the 1950s, had a small plane that he used 

to land there. Dr. Astwood told me, “When I came back 

home in 1971, Embry was landing there.” 

The Downtown Strip was conveniently located within a 

short walking distance of the TCI Government compound. 

At the time, the main airport in Grand Turk was controlled 

by the US Government and it was very complicated to 

obtain a landing permit. Fritz was always very generous 

when it came to offering free rides if there was a seat 

available. One time I heard Fritz saying, “There are so 

many people who want to go to South Caicos and Grand 

Turk, we might as well start an airline.” Shortly thereafter, 

Caicos Airways Ltd. (CAL) was formed. 

This was in 1967 and one important factor was that a 

man named Lew Whinnery had shown up on the scene. 

Ray Ward and his construction crew were building the 

Third Turtle Inn on top of the cliff just south of what today 

is Turtle Cove Marina. One day they saw a small, single 

engine sea plane circling the construction site before 

landing close to the beach in front of them. Soon afterwards, 

Lew walked up to the construction site. He had 

flown over Providenciales before and this time, noticed 

that something was different. Lew asked Ray what he was 

building and if he needed some help. Ray replied that it 

This image shows the “Downtown Strip” in Grand Turk. It was a dirt 

road just north of St. Thomas Church. 

This picture includes Lew Whinnery’s seaplane. He was en route from 

South America to the United States, but got delayed in Turks & Caicos 

for a few years! He was one of CAL’s original pilots. 

would be a big help if he could fly to South Caicos and 

bring back a few cases of Heineken beer because they 

were running low. That is exactly what Lew did, so we 

knew right away that he was a man with his heart in the 

right place! 

In 1967, Heineken was the only beer available in Turks 

& Caicos. I was told, or read somewhere, that Turks & 

Caicos held the world record in Heineken drinking per 

capita. Apparently somebody in an office in Holland 

who was handling shipping documents got curious and 

wanted to find out more about the country. (This was 

before you could Google such information, so he probably 

had to go to a library to educate himself.) He learned 

that the total population of Turks & Caicos at the time 

was 6,000 people. Adding up the amount of Heineken 

that was shipped out to TIMCO in Grand Turk gave Turks 

& Caicos the world record. 

Lew Whinnery was a very experienced pilot and he 

expressed interest in sticking around in Turks & Caicos 

for awhile. Embry Rucker, also a pilot, already worked for 

18 www.timespub.tc

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Times of the Islands Summer 2021 19 

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CAL’s second plane was a Twin Bonanza. This photo was taken on Providenciales when the airstrip was only 700 feet long. 

Provident Limited. With two pilots available, Fritz, Embry 

and Lew sat down to figure out how Caicos Airways Ltd. 

was going to operate. 

There were two airplanes available. The Cessna 180 

that belonged to Kris Ludington carried one pilot and three 

passengers. There was also a Beechcraft Twin Bonanza 

with room for one pilot plus five passengers. Embry lived 

This is a 1969 aerial photo of the airstrip on North Caicos. It was 

located on a tidal flat just south of Kew. Heavy rain or high tides 

made it unusable. 

in South Caicos where there was a very good runway. 

Grand Turk had the downtown strip, Providenciales had 

the 1,200-foot strip, but there was nowhere to land on 

North nor Middle Caicos. 

Embry and Lew went to work and found some locations 

that could be used as airstrips. On North Caicos 

they picked a spot on the tidal flats just south of Kew. 

Most of the time this strip had a smooth and hard surface, 

but heavy rain or extremely high tides would make 

it unusable. On Middle Caicos they picked two places. 

One was just east of Conch Bar. In those days there was 

a footpath between Conch Bar and Bambarra named 

Anderson Road. They arranged to have some bush cut 

and made one section of the path wider. The second strip 

was between Bambarra and the beach just north of the 

settlement. This strip was truly unique because it had a 

dogleg. As the pilot was gaining speed on takeoff, he had 

to slightly change direction! 

As soon as CAL was up and running it also became 

the mail carrier for the government. Earlier, the mail 

on Providenciales arrived from Grand Turk via the boat 

Donna Casilda captained by Algernon Dean, who had the 

contract with the government. According to Algernon 

Dean’s son (with the same name), the mail was supposed 

to be delivered every two weeks but sometimes 

got delayed. The “Post Office” on Providenciales was the 

living room of the Brown’s house in Blue Hills. This was 

located just east of the government school, rest house 

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These aerial photos from 1969 show the early airstrips on Middle 

Caicos. The top image is located just east of Conch Bar; the “Anderson 

Road” footpath was cleared and made wider. The bottom image was 

between Bambarra and the beach just north of the settlement. This 

strip was truly unique because it had a dogleg. 

and water tank, which is about where the jetty is today. 

At the time, I was using the mail service to correspond 

with friends and relatives in Sweden, and surprisingly, it 

functioned very well. I remember standing outside the 

front door, which was split so the lower part remained 

closed, while through the open upper half I watched Osley 

Brown searching through the mail. I only just learned 

that the postmaster was actually George Brown. The only 

person I remember seeing there was Osley, who I now 

understand was actually the daughter. 

I recall a public meeting in Blue Hills when one item 

that was discussed was the mail service. A gentleman, 

which I now understand must have been George Brown, 

22 www.timespub.tc

pointed out all the increase in work and suggested that 

an increase in pay would be in order. Earlier, Algernon 

Dean used to deliver the mail bag to the Brown house, 

but now Osley had to walk to the airport several times a 

week. 

Another incident I recall is when CAL pilot Embry 

Rucker and his wife Noreen were living in Caicos House 

in South Caicos. Late one afternoon I was the only passenger 

flying out of Grand Turk with Embry. As we were 

climbing above Grand Turk, Embry said, “Lew is almost 

landing on Providenciales, so I’m not going to waste fuel 

and fly you over there this evening. You can sleep on the 

couch at our place. I have to be on Providenciales early 

tomorrow anyway.” Made sense. I thought it would be 

nice if I could help out with dinner, since I was crashing 

their place. I asked Embry if he could get somebody on 

the radio and, if Lew hadn’t left, have him bring back four 

steaks. Fritz’s favorite food was New York strip steaks 

and I knew we had plenty in the freezer. Embry made 

radio contact and ordered the “steaks.” But when Lew 

arrived to Caicos House he brought four survey “stakes.” 

Whoever Embry spoke to on the radio had figured that if 

I was staying in South Caicos it was because I was doing 

some survey work. I don’t remember what we had for 

dinner that evening, but knowing Noreen she would have 

opened some cans and whipped up something delicious. 

As time went on, CAL expanded. More airplanes and 

pilots were added. Even a DC3 was used on the downtown 

strip in Grand Turk. By 1971 the main airport on Grand 

Turk was opened for use. Soon thereafter, air service 

between the Islands was taken over by other companies, 

but it had all started in 1967 with Embry and Lew. a 

The new post office in Providenciales is named after George Brown. 

VISITTCI.COM 


eye on the sky 

The Tropical Atlantic region is fresh off the most active hurricane season in history, with 30 named storms 

and 14 hurricanes, with 6 major hurricanes. While no two seasons are alike, can we expect similar results 

for the 2021 season? 

Be Prepared 

2021 hurricane season poised to be active. 

By Paul Wilkerson 


Hurricane season runs annually in the Atlantic from 

June 1 to November 30. It is important to note that tropical 

activity can occur outside of these dates, of course. 

Named systems have formed in May and also in December 

due to favorable conditions in the Atlantic Basin. 

During 2020, El Niño conditions transitioned to neutral/weak 

La Niña. In general, neutral and weak La Niña 

conditions lend to a more active season. Upper level 

winds during this type of El Niño–Southern Oscillation 

are typically light across the Atlantic Basin, resulting in a 

reduction in wind shear, which promotes an environment 

conducive to tropical development. The other piece of the 

2020 puzzle was well-above-normal sea surface temperatures 

across the entire Atlantic, Caribbean and into the 

Gulf of Mexico. As a result, plenty of fuel was available 

for tropical development. 

For the 2021 season, unfortunately some of the conditions 

will mirror the 2020 season. As of press time, weak 

La Niña conditions were present, with the forecast calling 

for these conditions to continue to weaken through 

the first month of summer before conditions turn neutral 

for the remainder of the summer and into the early 

fall. Additionally, sea surface temperatures currently are 

running above normal in a large portion of the Gulf of 

Mexico, the Caribbean and the Atlantic Basin. As a result 

of these conditions, the opportunity will exist for a significant 

tropical season across the Atlantic. 

NOAA is predicting another above-normal Atlantic 

hurricane season. However, experts do not anticipate the 

historic level of storm activity seen in 2020. For 2021, a 

likely range of 13 to 20 named storms (winds of 39 mph 

or higher), of which 6 to 10 could become hurricanes 

(winds of 74 mph or higher), including 3 to 5 major hurricanes 

(category 3, 4 or 5; with winds of 111 mph or 

higher) is expected. 

My personal official forecast is for 20 named storms, 9 

hurricanes and also 4 major hurricanes. (For perspective, 

the average hurricane season sees 14 named storms, 

7 hurricanes and 3 major hurricanes.) While it is nearly 

impossible to say with accuracy at this time, islands in the 

Caribbean and the United States mainland stand a high 

likelihood of seeing multiple land-falling systems during 

the 2021 season. 

With the 2021 season on the horizon, it is important 

for all travelers to the Islands to take time to think about 

their hurricane preparedness plans if one should occur 

during your travels. It also is important to think about 

adding trip insurance to protect your investment. If a 

hurricane strikes while you are on-island, there is a significant 

likelihood that you will be delayed in returning to 

your country of origin. Also ensure that friends and family 

at home are aware of your travel plans and have a copy 

of your itinerary. If on-island and a tropical system threatens, 

be sure to check with your hotel/resort/villa staff to 

26 www.timespub.tc

get important messages concerning what you need to do 

in order to stay safe. Follow all directions given, as they 

are there to look out for you. 

For our friends who call the Islands home, it is equally 

important for you to go over your safety and preparedness 

plans with your entire family. Let your neighbors 

and friends know where you plan on seeking shelter 

should a tropical system materialize. In the lead-up to 

tropical systems, make sure to first and foremost follow 

messaging instructions from the Department of Disaster 

Management and Emergencies (DDME). This is the official 

government source for messaging to island residents. 

Other important entities to follow include the National 

Hurricane Center and the Bahamas Meteorological 

Agency. For unofficial information, my island weather 

page—Turks and Caicos Weather Info on Facebook—provides 

a good source of information prior to, during and 

post-tropical systems. Iit is important to vet any and all 

information you receive. In the event of a land-falling system 

in the Turks & Caicos Islands, my page will only post 

information that has been verified, in order to provide 

accurate and up-to-date information for citizens and travelers 

alike. DDME messaging will always be a significant 

part of facts on the weather page. 

While the Turks & Caicos Islands are three and a half 

years removed from major Hurricane Irma, many still feel 

the effects of that terrible event. Understandably, many 

likely deal with anxiety as hurricane season approaches. 

With diligent planning on the front end, you can be better 

prepared to weather the storm should tropical weather 

threaten this season. For visitors, preparation and conversation 

about trips during tropical season will enable you 

to make smart decisions and ensure your vacation runs 

smoothly should inclement weather develop. a 


ALEJANDRA BAÏZ

talking taíno 

Opposite page: Alejandra Baïz is a Taíno artist from Borikén, Puerto Rico, who has always been inspired by the themes of her ancestors. She 

says, “My artwork is a kind of storytelling that give us back the humanity and the true history of our Taíno ancestors, so denied, rejected and 

hidden throughout the centuries. It is a way to recognize their struggle and reaffirm our identity.” She painted “Anacacuya” in 2016. For more 

of her work, visit https://alejandra-baiz.weebly.com. 

Above: The Taínos made red beads from the cherry jewelbox shell (Chama sarda). Given their small size and haphazard distribution, we 

propose that children were tasked with collecting these shells in the beach wash. 

Child’s Play 

What was the life of Taíno children like? 

By Bill Keegan, Betsy Carlson and Michael Pateman 

The huge interest in the Paleo Diet got us wondering. If eating like a “Caveman” was a great idea, then 

why not other ancient practices, like childrearing? However, developing Paleo-Parenting guidelines proved 

challenging because children are largely invisible in research on ancient societies. Then we came upon 

the picture of young children in Amazonia walking through a burning garden and realized how difficult 

it would be to encourage young parents to follow our advice! So parenting aside, what about the kids? 


Finding any discussion of children in anthropological 

studies proved nearly impossible. In fact, a scholarly 

article written less than 20 years ago asked, “Why don’t 

anthropologists like children?” Despite being important 

members of all communities, and often the most numerous, 

their activities have rarely been studied. One rare 

example that highlighted children’s activities comes 

from Doug Bird and Rebecca Bliege Bird, who conducted 

research among islanders of the Torres Straits off the 

northeastern coast of New Guinea. 

The Birds studied child’s play in these traditional fishing 

and farming communities, and it was what you would 

expect from watching children today — games of speed, 

strength, caring for pets and mimicking adult activities. 

Instead of “Doctor” they played “Shaman,” where one 

child would pretend to heal another who pretended to be 

a sick patient. The process involved a dramatic ritual in 

which the shaman removed an offending foreign object, 

the “cause” of the illness, by sucking the object out of the 

afflicted individual. The Spanish described this practice 

for adult shaman (behique in Taíno) in the Caribbean. 

The Birds also observed that children often played 

together just beyond the watchful eyes of adults; close 

enough to reassure themselves that adults were nearby, 

but free from adult supervision. This gave us a simple, 

yet illuminating, insight — we won’t see children in the 

archaeological record of the past until we look for them. 

Yet children have received even less attention from 

archaeologists. What should we be looking for in terms 

of preserved archaeological (“material”) evidence of their 

activities? 

Our search for children intensified as part of our 

effort to develop a more comprehensive curriculum for 

the Bahamas Ministry of Education. The story of the 

Lucayans, the first people to live in The Bahamas and TCI, 

was woefully out of date. Yet, secondary school students 

were expected to pass a comprehensive history exam 

which includes writing an essay about Lucayan “recreation.” 

None of the resources provided to the teachers 

even mentioned recreation. 

In fact, the only mention of children at all concerned 

the practice of flattening an infant’s forehead. This was 

illustrated with what looks like a Medieval torture device 

— a hinged board supposedly used to squash the skull 

flat. Wrong! The actual procedure involved tightly binding 

the front and back of the skull with a cloth bandana and 

leaving it in place for six to nine months. The six main 

bones of a child’s skull are held together by cartilage 

so the brain can grow to its adult size. Binding the skull 

permanently adjusts the relative positions of the bones to 

create what was considered a beautiful appearance and 

provided a permanent mark of identity. While flattening 

the forehead was easily associated with infants, finding 

other accounts of children proved much harder. 

Our first archaeological encounter with children 

happened when Betsy and Bill collaborated on an archae- 

This is the “archaeological rescue project” undertaken by the authors in St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands in January 2014. They excavated a 

1,600-year-old site that had been sealed beneath the roadbed. In addition to pottery and other tools, the site contained thousands of whelks 

(Cittarium pica) and other tiny clam and snail shells that could have been collected by children. 

30 www.timespub.tc

What better way to keep the Taino kids busy then to have them glean the rocks while the adults engage nearby in more productive fishing 

and gathering? Small shellfish are especially well suited for a child’s size and attention span. 

SHUTTERSTOCK 

ological rescue project in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, 

US Virgin Islands in January 2014. New sewer and utility 

lines were being installed under Main Street, and the team 

quickly, but carefully, excavated a 1,600-year-old archaeological 

site that had been sealed beneath the roadbed. 

In addition to pottery and other tools, the site contained 

thousands of whelks (Cittarium pica) and other tiny clam 

and snail shells. Kelly Delancy, who now works for the 

National Museum of the Bahamas, helped with their analysis 

when she was a graduate student at the University 

of Florida. Our study attracted international attention in 

the article, “Children Have Been Helping Their Families 

‘Grocery Shop’ for Centuries” printed in Martha Stewart 

Living on March 27, 2019. 

Almost all these shells came from animals that live 

in the rocky intertidal zone. If you walk along the rocky 

shorelines in the Turks & Caicos today and look closely, 

you will see chitons, nerites, limpets, star shells and other 

denizens of tide pools and splash zones. Over the years 

we have eaten most of these (they taste best in garlic 

butter!), but they are a lot of work for a very small morsel. 

From a strictly economic perspective, they require more 

energy to collect and cook than they return in calories. 

Economics is not always the best way to explain what 

people do. We know that everyone likes variety in their 

diet, and we sometimes choose the most expensive item 

on the menu. (A choice made easier when offered a discount.) 

The large whelks at the Main Street site are something 

we expect adults to collect, but why were there so 

many tiny shells? Our sample looked like as if someone 

was instructed to collect every animal living on the rocks 

without regard to size. What better way to keep the kids 

busy then to have them glean the rocks while the adults 

engage nearby in more productive fishing and gathering? 

These small shellfish had other characteristics that 

are especially well suited for a child’s size and attention 

span. They are abundant so the children won’t get 

bored, predictable so you know they will find something, 

lightweight and easy to carry by even small children, and 

they are easy to collect, especially by small hands. Smallsize 

resources that are easy to capture are best suited to 

foraging by children. Modern studies of children helping 

adults with mollusk collection confirmed this idea. 

Children were less selective, captured a higher diversity 

of taxa, rarely engaged in field-processing (extracting the 


Could this small figurine (radiocarbon dated to AD 1426–1515) made 

of finger coral be a doll? Its simplicity suggests that it may have been 

made and carried by a child. 

meat from the shell) and focused on resources located 

close to their habitation or base camp. In addition, the 

seemingly small contributions from children made longer 

collecting trips more rewarding. 

A related activity is worth considering. Every archaeological 

site that we have studied has evidence for the 

manufacture of tiny (2–4 mm) disc-shaped beads. White 

beads were made from the queen conch shell, and red 

beads from the cherry jewelbox shell (Chama sarda). 

The jewelbox shell has the unusual quality of retaining 

its bright red color for hundreds of years if protected 

from sunlight. Based on our experience walking beaches 

in The Bahamas and TCI, jewelbox shells are rare, and it 

is unlikely that enough shells for bead making could be 

collected in a single foraging trip. It is more likely that 

the shells were accumulated over time. Given their small 

size and haphazard distribution, we propose that children 

were tasked with collecting these shells in the beach 

wash. The advantage of collecting the dead shells from 

the beach was that they were already partially shaped and 

polished. This may have been a way for children to curry 

favor with adults while at the same time playing along the 

Atlantic coast beaches. 

Archaeological evidence for toys is much harder to 

find. Kids pick up all manner of objects and pretend that 

they are something else, but anything made of a perishable 

material is long gone. The long running joke is that 

when archaeologists find something they can’t explain 

they attribute it to “ceremonial significance.” Perhaps we 

need to ask instead whether things we can’t explain are 

due to child’s play? 

For the past four years we have been investigating a 

Lucayan archaeological site near Wemyss on Long Island, 

Bahamas. Site LN-8 is a Lucayan settlement with three 

32 www.timespub.tc

superimposed living surfaces. Large stains from house 

posts show that we were excavating inside Lucayan 

houses that were rebuilt in the same location over a period 

of 500 years. One of many mysteries is why we found so 

many small pieces of finger coral (Porites porites) inside a 

house. There are no known practical uses for this type of 

coral. We wondered, could they be associated with a kid’s 

game, perhaps a kind of ancient LEGO? Such speculation 

may seem farfetched, but while counting and weighing 

dozens of pieces we made a discovery that may point to 

children. 

A small figurine, perhaps a “doll,” made from finger 

coral was recovered. The object was found at the second 

living surface (28–38 cm below surface), which is 

radiocarbon dated to AD 1426–1515. It measures 6.2 

cm in length and has two eyes incised on either side 

of the head. The coral was abraded in places to produce 

the figurine shape, and the coral polyps are worn 

smooth through handling. A “mouth” appears on one 

side, although this may be from suspending the doll on 

a string necklace. There are a set of eyes on either side 

of the head, which could reflect symmetry, but also gives 

the object the same appearance when viewed from either 

side. Or, the two sets of eyes might reflect the “twin spirits” 

ascribed to cemís. The conventional interpretation of 

this artifact would be a cemí idol, the representation of 

a spirit(s), which would elevate it to the status of a ceremonial 

object associated with adult practices of worship. 

Yet cemís are rarely manufactured from coral, and the 

simplicity of the artifact suggests to us that it may have 

been made and carried by a child. We call this object a 

“doll” to emphasize this point and interpret it as a child’s 

talisman. 

When we were children there were no car seats, no 

bike helmets, no sunblock; but if you went swimming 

less than 30 minutes after eating you would drown. Even 

recent notions of childrearing don’t always provide sound 

guidance. Walking through a burning garden and carrying 

a machete might not concern parents in Amazonian 

communities, but crayons are certainly a better gift for a 

five-year old today. a 

TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1 

Dr. Bill Keegan is Curator of Caribbean Archaeology at the 

Florida Museum of Natural History (University of Florida); 

Dr. Betsy Carlson is Senior Archaeologist at Southeastern 

Archaeological Research (SEARCH, Inc.) in Jonesville, FL; 

and Dr. Michael Pateman is former Director of the Turks 

& Caicos National Museum and currently Curator/Lab 

Director of the AEX Maritime Museum on Grand Bahama. 

Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development, 

mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more. 

TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM 


looking back 

This 1967 photograph shows the original airstrip after it had been extended to 1,200 feet. The Kew Town roundabout is approximately where 

the 90º turn in the track road is. Walkin Marine’s current location is left of the standing water at the top of the picture. 

Opposite page: These days, fishermen come to TCI’s abundant waters to fly cast for bonefish. Flamingo Lake, opposite Harbour Club Villas, 

is a favorite spot for anglers. 

Above: Although this man is using a cast net to collect bait fish, “hauling” for bonefish also involves surrounding the fish with a net. 

Bonefish Ahead! 

Hauling bonefish with Willis Taylor “back in the day.” 

By Diane Taylor ~ Photos By Marta Morton 

It was Easter Monday of 1982. On a whim, a small group of us (six, to be exact) sailed from Pine Cay to 

Sandy Point on North Caicos with Richard Kriss on his 22' sailboat Little Wing. It was beautiful sailing as 

we threaded our way through reefs and tied up to the dock. The same dock where I’d seen Haitian sloops 

with their cargo of Haiti-grown fresh vegetables the crew would trade for dried conch that Caicos fishermen 

had dived for. We all had to be back on Pine Cay the next morning for jobs, and arranged for trans 

(transportation) with one of the few cars on the island to pick us up early the next morning. 


We chatted with people at Sandy Point and then our 

“trans man” Zander drove us to Horse Stable Beach where 

we walked the beach and marvelled over the shells and 

the stillness. As the sun descended perilously close to the 

horizon, the no-seeums began to hunt their large human 

prey, so we headed over to Susan Butterfield’s for supper. 

For some reason, the other five were able to spend 

the night at a friend’s house that could only take five. 

We heard that someone had a place where one person 

could sleep and that’s where I spent the night. I got up at 

5:15 Tuesday morning to wait for trans that never came. 

Fortunately! 

How Willis Taylor knew my situation, I don’t know, but 

he came by and said he was heading to Pine Cay by motor 

boat from Bellefield Landing. Would I like to come? Well, 

yes! Broad smiles all around. His two teenage sons straddled 

one bicycle, he another, and my place was behind 

him. 

Off we rattled on the gravel road under pedal power. 

The last half mile or so veered down a steep hill, and we 

plunged down at a mad pace, me holding on to him. Willis 

knew and steered around every pothole and in no time we 

arrived at the low tide water, and he and the boys tucked 

their bikes away in the underbrush. 

We loaded ourselves and our belongings into the skiff 

that had a huge pile of netting in the stern. Willis showed 

me his lunch bag that contained several whelks he’d collected 

from the north side of Dellis Cay—his wife had 

boiled them for him earlier that morning. The engine 

came to life and we headed out across the flats. I’d be 

home for breakfast. 

Suddenly, the boy at the bow pointed ahead and off to 

the port side. “Bonefish!” I didn’t see anything, but Willis 

immediately steered over to an area several hundred feet 

away, and as we approached I could see the water alive 

with large silvery fish, lots of them, just below the surface. 

I looked at Willis who gave me a little frown. “We 

have to stop for these,” he said. The work day starts now. 

He threw the anchor over and he and his sons leapt 

into the waist-deep water, carrying the huge net. Within 

minutes, the two boys carried one end of the net in one 

direction towards the school of fish and Willis carried the 

other end in the opposite direction until eventually the 

net formed a large circle that trapped many of the fish 

inside. All three began catching the two- and three-foot 

long fish with their hands, giving the necks a quick twist 

and tossing them into the boat. 

“You, too,” Willis, worried look on his face, motioned 

to me to give them a hand. Really? Okay, I could do this! 

Into the den of circling fish I slid. “Break their necks if 

you can, otherwise, just throw them in the boat,” he said. 

Okay. I’d caught smelt (seven inches long) in Ontario with 

my bare hands, I could do this! Well, this was different, 

and I wasn’t a big help but I did add a few to the several 

piling up in the skiff. I didn’t have the know-how to snap 

their necks, though. 

Those guys moved FAST! The excitement lasted all of 

fifteen minutes. The boys carefully walked the net back in, 

folding it just so, so that it would be ready at a moment’s 

notice again. At least fifty bonefish. A good haul, a good 

hunt. Most of them he would sell to the Meridian Club on 

Pine Cay. Calm now, he weighed anchor and steered the 

boat and cargo back on course over the milky turquoise 

flats. 

The next day, I ran into Willis on Pine Cay and he gave 

me a slow warm smile and slight nod of the head. Not 

long after, I somehow wound up on another bonefishing 

trip with him, and “we” captured over eighty. He said I was 

his good luck charm. 

No, Willis, you were mine. How many people can say 

they have been bonefishing the traditional time-immemorial 

way? a 

Diane “Dee” Taylor lived and worked for three years on 

Pine Cay with her husband Gary Hodgkins in the early 

1980s. They worked with PRIDE (Protection of Reefs and 

Islands from Degradation and Exploitation) under the 

direction of Chuck Hesse. 

She teaches memoir writing and has published The 

Gift of Memoir: Show Up, Open Up, Write. She is part 

of Spirit of the Hills Writers. For more information, visit 

https://dianemtaylor.com. 

36 www.timespub.tc

green pages 

Newsletter of the Department of Environment & Coastal Resources 

Head office: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895 

• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710 

• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales 

Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793 

Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793 

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/ 

The Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is trial testing a new treatment against Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease. Here, the infused hemp has been 

applied to Grooved Brain Coral (Diploria labyrinthiformis) in May, 2021. 

A New Hope? 

TCRF tests alternate, non-antibiotic treatment against SCTLD. 

Story & Photos By Alizee Zimmermann, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund 

From wreaking havoc on the Florida Reef Tract to now threatening the stony coral population of reefs 

in 17 countries and territories, Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD) is proving itself to be the most 

aggressive, virulent and indiscriminate coral disease in the Atlantic/Caribbean region to date. 


green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources 

“Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD) is a new 

lethal disease first reported in Florida in 2014. The cause 

of the disease is unknown but it is affecting more than 30 

species of corals especially brain, pillar, star and starlet 

corals. The disease spreads quickly causing high coral 

mortality. Since then, outbreaks of SCTLD have been 

confirmed in the Caribbean off Jamaica, Mexico, Sint 

Maarten, the US Virgin Islands, Dominican Republic, Turks 

& Caicos Islands, Saint-Martin, Belize, Sint Eustatius, The 

Bahamas, Puerto Rico, British Virgin Islands, Cayman 

Islands, Guadeloupe, St. Lucia, Honduras and Martinique.” 

(https://www.agrra.org/coral-disease-outbreak/) 

As I attempt to wrap my head around what has 

happened in the past two-plus years since SCTLD first 

appeared on the reefs of the Turks & Caicos Islands, I 

suddenly realize that it was two years to the day that I 

had my first face-to-face encounter with an invasion zone 

at the far south end of West Caicos. That day changed 

everything. Before May 23, 2019, I had never heard of 

Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease. Two years later, it is a 

focal point of my career and my life. 

I’m not special or 

unique; there are dozens 

of people across 

17 nations—scientists, 

researchers, government 

officers, NGO staff, citizen 

scientists, scuba divers, 

volunteers—whose lives 

have all shifted focus, 

who have been on the 

frontlines of an unseen, 

underwater battle. We 

share a mutual sadness. 

As stated in previous 

articles, SCTLD was first 

observed by the School 

for Field Studies (SFS) in 

South Caicos in January 

2019. Since then, it has 

spread locally to all the 

fore reefs of the Turks & 

Caicos Islands, now having 

been confirmed on 

the reefs of East Caicos in 

March 2021. (Initial inva- 

sion date undocumented but evidenced to be some time 

earlier based on observed coral mortality.) 

The School for Field Studies has collected extensive 

baseline data on the reefs of South Caicos and in 

February 2021 published a paper comparing the average 

percentage of live coral cover between 2012–2018 to the 

one-year post-SCTLD live coral cover recorded in 2020. 

These studies indicate a 60+% loss of live coral cover on 

the reefs studied. 

Once again, we are not alone. St. Thomas recorded 

34% loss of live hard-coral cover in the span of four 

months in 2019, attributed to SCTLD. These numbers 

are being repeated on reefs across the region. Not only 

is this disease deadly and often resulting in entire colony 

mortality, it is also spreading like wildfire through the 

water column, able to infect large tracts of reef in very 

little time. 

Research into transmission vectors is still ongoing 

but it has been affirmed that that the pathogen(s) is 

waterborne and can be carried by dive gear (especially 

If you see a tagged coral asking you to photograph it and email to SCTLD@tcreef.org please do! This project 

aims to engage divers and citizens to help in a wider monitoring effort. 

38 www.timespub.tc


neoprene and the inner bladder of a BCD), 

as well as through ballast water from recreational 

and commercial vessels. 

Although hit hard, scientists and managers 

in the TCI are also fighting hard to 

track, treat and manage SCTLD locally as well 

as continuing to participate in the regional 

conversation and effort. An incredible line of 

communication and collaboration has opened 

amongst managers and scientists, governments 

and NGOs, neighbouring islands. 

The Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF) has 

been working alongside the Department of 

Environment & Coastal Resources (DECR) to 

test trial different intervention and treatment 

methods as well as the continued tracking of 

disease presence. 

You may remember an article on the 

success of the treatment used by multiple 

strike-teams region-wide— amoxicillin mixed 

into a specially designed paste called Base2B. 

This intervention method continues to be the 

most effective at halting disease progression 

across a colony. In TCRF’s Final Status 

Report based on a permit received to test the 

efficacy of antibiotic treatment, up to a 90% 

success rate was still being recorded in up to 

six months of monitoring. 

TCRF currently has a Scientific Research 

Permit allowing us to expand our intervention 

efforts and treat large, priority colonies 

along the reef tract. If you see a tagged coral 

asking you to photograph it and email to 

SCTLD@tcreef.org, please do! This project 

aims to engage divers and citizens to help us 

in a wider monitoring effort. We can’t be everywhere at 

once, but with an active local dive community, we’re hoping 

to engage opportunistic monitoring of our expansion 

efforts. 

Alongside this effort, over the past month, we have 

started testing an alternative, non-antibiotic treatment 

This Maze Coral (Meandrites meandrina) was treated with the original treatment 

method, amoxicillin in Base2B, in May 2021. 

created by Ocean Alchemists, the same company that 

developed the Base2B currently used. TCRF has been 

working closely with the team at Ocean Alchemists and 

we were excited for the opportunity to be the first to 

test trial their newly developed non-antibiotic treatment 

on SCTLD in the field. This particular treatment has 



had notable success against Black Band Disease in the 

labs at the MOTE Marine Laboratory in Florida. It is an 

all-natural, non-antibiotic proprietary formula (it smells 

like Christmas with a heavy cinnamon component!) that 

has been imbued into flat braided hemp ropes which are 

then stapled into the coral along the lesion margin. In 

May 2021, TCRF tagged approximately eighty colonies 

along three transects on the dive site Catacombs in Grace 

Bay, Providenciales and either treated with one of the two 

treatments or kept as a control. 

We are conducting a head-to-head trial of Coral Cure 

D versus amoxicillin in Base2B with a selection of control 

colonies left untreated. Although ongoing, we were able 

to revisit the site with up to three weeks since treatment 

and the results are positive! Soon we will be reporting on 

our experimental trials to help continue improving the 

product. Not only are we looking at efficacy compared 

to the amoxicillin treatment, we are also making observations 

on ease of application as well as other properties 

such as the swelling capabilities of the product which 

affect how deep into the grooves of certain corals the 

product can reach. If the treatment doesn’t reach down 

into the valleys of a brain coral, for example, it is less 

likely to be successful is stopping the disease progression. 

We will be monitoring the treated coral heads and 

documenting each tagged colony photographically every 

two weeks (weather dependant) for two months and then 

once a month after that for a total of six months from 

treatment day. We will be looking at the comparative efficacy 

of this new treatment approach to that of the current 

standard of care, the amoxicillin in Base 2B. 

As mentioned above, preliminary observations are 

positive and if this treatment proves successful, it will be 

ground-breaking in SCTLD interventions. Even those most 

in favour of antibiotic intervention do so with a “time is 

of the essence” motivation. If a successful alternative can 

be found, this will ease environmental fears as well as 

probably easing permitting difficulties across the region 

and allowing strike teams to act faster. 

Is this a new hope? Well, I sure hope so! If you are 

interested in learning more about Stony Coral Tissue 

Loss Disease log onto https://www.agrra.org/coral-disease-outbreak/ 

and email alizee@tcreef.org. There are 

many ways in which we can all help the fight. a 

40 www.timespub.tc


Editor’s note: In the Spring 2021 issue of Green Pages, the photo on the bottom of page 52 and the two photos on the bottom 

of page 56 should have been credited to Anna Handte-Reinecker. Our sincere apologies! 

Several blue, yellow and brown sponges can be seen in this photograph. Sponges come in all shapes and sizes but are characterized by their 

pore-like structures that filter water through their bodies for nutrients and oxygen. 

ANNA HANDTE-REINECKER 

Sponging It Up 

The hidden beauty of sponges. 

Story & Photos By Melissa Heres, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies 

Sponges, in my humble opinion, are likely the most underrated of all marine organisms. Often underappreciated 

and tossed aside as a bathing accessory or the feature of children’s TV shows, sponges don’t 

necessarily come to mind when one thinks of extraordinary marine life. That, however, should change. 

Sponges—although classified as the simplest animal forms (and yes, they are animals!)—have extraordinary 

characteristics, features and life stages that are truly awe-inspiring. 



Let’s start with a quick 

crash course in sponge 

biology. Sponges are considered 

to be some of the 

simplest animals due to 

their structure—they lack 

true tissue, organs or 

even a brain, and instead 

rely on specialized cells. 

These cells work together 

to filter water through 

the sponge, allowing the 

organism to absorb oxygen 

and gain nutrients. 

This filtering occurs when 

cilia, or hair-like projections, 

move in order to 

create an area of negative 

pressure inside the atrium 

of the sponge, driving 

water into the sponge’s 

cavities via pores, or ostia, 

and out through the main 

opening, or osculum, 

located near the top of the 

sponge. Sponges also contain spicules, which act as support 

to the structure, as well as spongin, which is a type 

of collagen which give sponges their “spongy” structure. 

One of the ways to capture a sponge’s beauty is 

to put it under a microscope. Spicules—those support 

structures mentioned earlier—can come in a variety of 

different shapes, all of which are unique to different 

sponges. By figuring out whether the spicules within a 

certain sponge are composed of calcium or silica, as well 

as by determining the shape of the spicules, scientists 

can identify sponge species. 

Peeking inside the atrium of sponges is my favorite pasttime while scuba diving. You can often find brittle 

stars or shrimp that call them home hiding inside. 

Sponges can reproduce in three ways: By spawning, 

fragmentation and budding. Spawning occurs when 

sponges release their sperm into the water column in 

hopes that it will reach another sponge. If it does, the 

cells of the sponge can capture the sperm and transport it 

to the eggs for fertilization and brooding of larvae. Later, 

the sponge will release the brooded larvae. This is the 

only time in the sponge’s life when they’re not immobile, 

as the sperm, and later the larvae that form, can move 

with ocean currents until they find a spot to settle on the 

sea floor. Interestingly, most sponges are actually hermaphroditic, 

and produce both egg and sperm. 

Fragmentation occurs when a part of a sponge 

breaks off, for example, and then is perhaps moved by 

currents or wave action to settle in a nook elsewhere. 

Finally, budding occurs when part of a sponge actually 

begins growing a clone of itself, which can eventually 

break off to settle elsewhere, or remain attached to begin 

a colony of sponges. 

Freshwater sponges have a unique adaptation that 

allows them to survive dormant in unfavorable conditions, 

such as cold water, droughts or anoxic (low oxygen) environments. 

These sponges can create gemmules, which 

have an outer protective layer and can remain dormant 

for long stretches of time. When conditions become 

favorable again, these gemmules can release cells that 

create new sponges, and some gemmules have even been 

stored for up to 25 years! 

Sponges and corals are often confused for one 

another and I’ve even heard someone refer to a sponge 

as a “coral-sponge.” Sponges and corals are, however, two 

42 www.timespub.tc


different types of organisms. Sponges can be identified 

by their telltale ostia and osculum. Sponges will have 

what look like pores all over their structure, which are 

the ostia, as well as a main large opening, usually near 

the top of the sponge, which is the osculum. Corals don’t 

have these pores or the osculum. If observed closely, 

corals do have polyps—structures with tentacles used to 

capture food—and will lack any opening or osculum. 

Sponges are fascinating and bizarre creatures that 

have incredible abilities. The following are some ways 

that scientists have researched sponges in order to learn 

more about these unique organisms. With a quick search 

online, interesting videos can be found of this research, 

but please keep sponges safe and don’t try this on any 

sponges you see in the water! 

One interesting way to check out a sponge’s flow of 

water is to fill a syringe with water and food dye and 

release this concoction around the base of a sponge. 

You will soon see the colored water being released out 

of the osculum at the top of the sponge, which shows 

how sponges can filter water very quickly in order to get 

proper nutrients and oxygen! 

Sponges are widely considered the most basic animal 

form, yet they actually have incredible abilities to 

regenerate. Scientists have studied this characteristic by 

separating sponge cells by squeezing them through a silk 

cloth. Sponges are then actually able to re-form their cells 

into a sponge. Even more interestingly, if two sponges 

are separated in this method, they can recognize their 

own cells and re-form as two sponges! 

Although there are several types and body plans 

of sponges, one in particular stands out as an awe-inspiring 

and incredible animal. The Venus flower basket 

(Euplectella aspergillum) is a type of glass sponge. These 

sponges live in the deep sea, and have an intricate shape 

created by layers of silica made in a precise pattern to 

keep them structurally sound. The most interesting 

part of this sponge, however, are its inhabitants. These 

This giant barrel sponge stands tall at a dive site off the coast of South Caicos named The Spanish Chain. 



This sponge is actually being colonized by sponge zoanthids (Parazoanthus parasiticus), which are the round, yellow tentacle structures seen 

all over the sponge. Inside this sponge, you can see the red arm of a brittle star. 

This giant barrel sponge (Xestospongia muta) looks like it’s missing 

a piece, creating a horseshoe shape. Sponges have incredible abilities 

to regenerate, and it may form back into a single cylindrical structure. 

sponges are almost always seen with two shrimp living 

inside of them, one male and one female. It is thought 

that these shrimp swim into the small pores of the sponge 

as larvae and are soon too large to escape. 

A bit closer to home in the Turks & Caicos Islands, 

there are several other types of sponges that you might 

encounter. From the giant barrel sponge (Xestospongia 

muta) that can grow as large as six feet across, to the red 

boring sponge (Cliona delitrix)—so named for its ability 

to bore into rock and other substrates and only growing 

about a foot long—sponges throughout the Caribbean 

can come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Sponges 

can also be a habitat for many smaller creatures that 

live among the reef. Brittle stars—closely related to sea 

stars—and shrimp call some species of sponge home. So 

the next time you’re snorkeling or diving on one of the 

TCI’s beautiful reefs or walls, keep an eye open for these incredible eyeless creatures. a 

For additional information about The School for Field Studies, 

visit www.fieldstudies.org or contact us on South Caicos at hhertler@fieldstudies.org. 

44 www.timespub.tc

faces and places 

From top left: Kadra Been-Handfield arranged the Snack & Paint event on North Caicos. Max Gardiner, one of the younger participants, took 

to the task immediately. Susie Cortez of Dallas, Texas added to the artistic aura of the day by doing a live painting of a flamingo while the 

children worked. The finished painting will be displayed on North Caicos at the welcome center for Flamingo Pond. 

Snack & Paint 

To paint a picture of TCI’s future, look no further than the Snack & Paint event held on North Caicos at Horse Stable 

Beach in May 1, 2021, where children spent an afternoon painting and socializing in games. 

Organized by North Caicos businesswoman Kadra Been-Handfield, the event drew 30 participants who were 

encouraged to paint either a fish or something of their own imaginations. While they painted, artist Susie Cortez of 

Dallas, Texas, worked on a painting that will, after framing, be displayed at the welcome center at Flamingo Pond. 

Mrs. Been-Handfield was helped by a number of volunteers and supporters, including Barbara Gardiner, Joylyn 

Handfield, District Commissioner Cynclair Musgrove, Althea Ewing, Merrica Handfield, Jody Rathgeb and Sara 

Kaufman. They, too, enjoyed refreshments and the delight of seeing TCI’s future leaders express themselves. 

By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb 

From bottom left: Future artist in the making Kamron Gardiner eagerly takes brush to canvas. 

A helper selfie includes, from left, Maxine Beswick, Barbara Gardiner, Joylyn Handfield, Kadra 

Been-Handfield and Althea Ewing. 


feature 

Opposite page: Robust, funnel-shaped flowers in bright hot colors are the Bahama woodstars’ favorite food. 

Above: The next generation of Bahama woodstar hummingbirds is ready to leave their nest at Harbour Club Villas. The mother (at right) is 

carefully supervising her young chick. 

The Stars of Our Woods 

The Bahama woodstar is TCI’s only regular resident hummingbird. 

By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist ~ Photos by Marta Morton 

Some years ago, while drilling drift seeds for a craft project, a bay bean Cannavalia rosea seed escaped 

and rolled across the floor, at some point getting swept out the front door. Seed coat compromised 

and sitting in an enriched flower bed, it took in the rain and did its best to out-show Jack’s beanstalk. It 

wound up a shrub, then up a string to the eaves, where it scrambled eastward and dropped numerous 

runners, eventually cloaking the entire front of my house, eaves to ground, in a thick tangle of leafy 

vines. Following a heavy rain, it bloomed with such ferocity—its purple blooms like succulent sweet-pea 

blossoms—that it became something of a buffet line for nectar feeders. 


During the day, butterflies and carpenter bees visited; 

at night sphynx moths and beetles came for their shifts. 

Such a productive viny tangle is irresistible to wildlife, but 

there was one creature that filled the role of the supreme 

diva of the bay bean façade, to which all others —even 

members of her own species—gave deference. The prima 

donna who chose to sup at the vines ruled them heartily, 

but never so much as when she decided that the bank 

of lianas was a suitable place to nest. It was then that a 

Bahama woodstar showed her specific nature to me and 

my visitors. 

The Bahama woodstar Nesophlox evelynae is the only 

hummingbird regularly resident in the Turks & Caicos 

Islands and given its pugnacious nature, that’s not surprising. 

Its species name honours the daughter, Evelyn, 

of Conrad Loddiges (1738–1826), a German-born British 

botanist. (Noteworthy here is that the generic epithet was 

changed from Caliphlox to Nesophlox in 2014; and the 

woodstar populations on Great and Little Inagua in the 

Bahamas were named as the separate, endemic species 

Nesophlox lyrura in 2015.) One wonders about the general 

social comportment of namesake little Evelyn, as the 

feisty Bahama woodstars hardly tolerate one another; 

much less chance they would countenance another competing 

species. 

Far from the damp, muggy habitat of the majority of 

the over 360 hummingbird species in the humid riparian 

and montane forests of South America, the Bahama 

woodstar stakes out territory in some of the driest, most 

stunted, scrubby forests available. Hummingbirds are the 

third most speciose family of birds, and the bee clade— 

the group to which woodstars belong—is the youngest 

and most rapidly speciating group. 

Bahama woodstars are found throughout the Lucayan 

Archipelago from Abaco (Bahamas) southward into Turks 

& Caicos Islands, but they tend to be more numerous 

on the central and southern islands where a heavy competitor 

in the larger northern island forests—the Cuban 

emerald hummingbird Riccordia ricordii—is absent. 

Indeed the Cuban emerald has been noted in Turks & 

Caicos Islands, but only as a vagrant on two confirmed 

occasions. Our only other very unlikely vagrant hummingbird 

is the world’s smallest bird and a close relative of the 

woodstar, the Cuban bee Mellisuga helenae. (There are 

two credible records of Cuban bee sightings in the Turks 

& Caicos Islands.) With these species generally absent, 

the Bahama woodstar has free range of the TCI and with 

their frightful brand of militantly weaponized gumption, 

the larger birds tend to steer clear of them too. 

Hummingbirds are known for being fearless defenders 

of their territories, including nests and feeding 

areas. It’s not unusual to see them interacting with other 

birds —including larger birds of prey—in a way that is 

surprisingly severe. They chase, stab and harass other 

birds away with their superior flight capacity, powered 

by wings that beat over 60 times a second and can allow 

them to attain true hovering, and to fly forward as well as 

up, down, sideways, backwards and even upside down. 

This is due to the structure and movement of the wings, 

which move more like human hands treading water than 

they do other birds’ wings. Angling each wing forward 

on the down-stroke and backwards on the up-stroke in a 

figure eight motion, they fly on vortices as much as they 

do lift. 

Flying and hovering on vortices is energy expensive, 

and hummingbirds have the highest metabolisms of any 

vertebrate. Their heart rates average 250 beats per minute 

at rest, spiking to over 1,000 beats per minute during 

their most demanding flight manoeuvres. Fortunately, 

their main food source as adults—nectar—is sugar-rich. 

They can digest and burn this sugar as little as thirty 

minutes after a sweet sip. 

Malaika Lakhani’s examination puts into perspective how tiny the 

hummingbird nest really is. 

48 www.timespub.tc

Above: This female hummingbird has completed her nest with silky wisps of air-plant seeds. 

Below: The first egg—roughly the size of a soybean—has just hatched; at right are the pair of baby hummingbirds. 

In Turks & Caicos Islands, Bahama woodstars encounter 

numerous plant species that have specifically evolved 

to accommodate bird pollinators. Robust, funnel-shaped 

flowers in bright hot colours are their favourites. These 

blossoms also carry the typical trait of having scent only 

at night (for the sake of long-tongued sphynx moths 

which also visit them) or no scent at all. Hummingbirds 

have no significant sense of smell, and find their food 

exclusively by sight and memory, so plants don’t bother 

perfuming their flowers for them. 

Some of the Bahama woodstars’ favourite nectar 

plants are very showy—the Christmas hog potato Ipomoea 

microdactyla with its waxy scarlet trumpets, and the 

five-fingers Tabebuia bahamensis with its blousy crepe 

paper funnels in pale pink. These are seasonal bloomers, 

and so they do what they can to attract their pollinators. 

But just as attractive are the subtly orange tube-blooms 

of the golden creeper Ernodea littoralis and pineland 

creeper Ernodea serratifolia which bloom year-round and 

therefore spend less energy making gaudy displays. 


While these flowers are certainly custom fit to the 

woodstars, other birds that cannot fit inside them still 

sometimes get to the nectar. It’s common to see five-fingers 

flowers with rough holes ripped in their tube bases, 

the delicate pink browning from the damage done by 

the scimitar bills of bananaquits, more robust nectar 

feeding birds. Bananaquits are one of many species for 

which woodstars have no time, and will bravely scold and 

chase from their favourite plants. As bananaquits are 

more social birds that live in family flocks, a sacrificial 

bananaquit sometimes diverts a defensive woodstar from 

a favoured flower patch while the rest of the family tears 

the posies up and loots the juice. 

This well-defended precious nectar is put to good 

use by the woodstars. Throughout the year but mostly 

in summer, females gather spider webs, wild cotton, fine 

grass and air-plant seed fluff to built tiny nests, the size 

of walnut shells, on branches often just 1–2 meters off 

the ground. Males take no part in nest-building; they 

spend their time defending territories especially rich with 

nectar plants that are likely to attract females. Male hummingbirds 

are, like most birds, most flashy than the hens, 

and the male woodstar is equipped with an iridescent 

gorget (chin-to-throat patch) and small crest. He will flash 

his gorget and raise and lower his crest while twittering at 

a female, hoping to attract her attention. The gorget can 

be angled, and it can flash as amethyst purple or blood 

red, depending on the light angle. He can even “turn it 

off” to almost black, by angling it downward. 

The male woodstar achieves that colour show by 

way of his feathers, which in hummingbirds rely on both 

pigmentation and structural refraction of light to create 

colour. In fact, it is the melanin itself that is arranged in 

a structured formation within the feathers that refracts 

the light, and the feathers themselves incorporate both 

melanin and carotenoids for their pigmentation. 

Once a female is sufficiently wooed and mates, she 

completes her nest. The nest is camouflaged with bits of 

lichen stuck to its outside. The silky wisps of the air-plant 

seeds, usually cuttlefish air-plant Tillandsia balbosiana, 

silvery air-plant T. streptophylla, flexuous air-plant T. 

flexousa or scorn-the-ground T. utriculata, tend to find 

their placement on a tree limb bound into a moisture-retaining 

nest the perfect place to germinate, and this is 

how many air plants wind up in trees. The germinating 

seedlings further assist in the camouflaging of the nests. 

Into the disguised nest the female will lay two white 

eggs roughly the size of cooked soybeans. Pound-forpound 

(so to say), Bahama woodstar eggs are massive in 

From top: The female hummingbird gathers insects and nectar to feed 

her quickly growing young. 

The male Bahama woodstar is equipped with an iridescent chin-tothroat 

patch and small crest. Both are used to attract the attention 

of a female. 

50 www.timespub.tc

elation to the female’s body size. To compete relatively, 

a chicken would need to lay two eggs the size of goose 

eggs. The female incubates them stalwartly for two to 

two-and-a-half weeks, and then gathers insects and nectar 

to feed her quickly growing young. Fully feathered 

within ten days, they often leave the nest for their first 

uncertain flights in as little as 15 days. They need to be 

able to fly strongly, and will be able to do so within a 

week, in order to find food and—perhaps most importantly—survive 

hurricane season. 

Bahama woodstars are known to survive hurricanes 

by hunkering down near the ground in dense scrub, often 

on the leeward side of a tree trunk. But many are lost in 

the strong winds, and they may also succumb to starvation 

if a hurricane has been strong enough to damage 

vegetation severely enough that nothing is in flower. 

Scarlet cordia Cordia sebestena becomes a lifesaver for 

them, as these trees often throw out their orange blooms 

right after storms. Oddly, while other populations of hummingbirds 

seem to take quickly to hummingbird feeders, 

Turks & Caicos woodstars don’t seem to—but planting 

their favourite native species definitely helps them and 

attracts them to home gardens. 

But my diva hummingbird arrived after a happy gardening 

accident, and I had no idea any nesting was going 

on—I never actually found the bay bean vine diva’s nest, 

so well she hid it. I only knew it was there from the sudden 

shift in her behaviour. Where she would previously 

defend the flowers from bumblebees and bananaquits 

with an authoritatively selfish demeanour, she suddenly 

became downright kamikaze at anything that flew too 

close to the vines even as the flowers acquiesced. 

Hummingbirds—thankfully—tend to completely 

ignore anything they don’t see as a threat, and so I didn’t 

have to watch my head the way I do for the repugnantly 

aggressive American kestrel that nests in the corner 

of my office roof every year. But one mid-morning, a 

passing male Bahama woodstar caught sight of the few 

remaining purple bay-bean flowers and zoomed in for an 

inspection. Diva must have heard his wing hum, because 

she emerged in full Amazon warrior mode quite ready 

to lance him through. The moment he saw her, he spiralled 

upward behind me then dropped behind my head 

by inches; I could feel his wing-paddled vortices puffing 

against my neck and hear the low hum just beyond my 

ears. 

Diva Woodstar suddenly—for the first time ever— 

took an interest in me. She flew accusingly at my face 

and hovered a foot in front of my nose, glaring as she 

darted left and right. Within a few seconds the interloping 

male tried to peek around me (as evidenced by the buzz 

and breeze near by right ear), and the jig was up. Diva 

rocketed at him past my right temple, he tightly circled 

around the back of my head and to the front, and both 

twittering the entire time, she chased him in three full 

circles around my head (I felt like a noggin-knocked cartoon 

character) before he pulled up and careered over my 

roof, sacrificing elegance for speed. Once she was sure 

he was forever vanquished, she retired back to her nest 

in the tangles, ignoring inconsequential me again, as a 

woodstar should, forevermore. a 


feature 

The Turks & Caicos Islands are ready, willing and able to receive visitors again—and they are flocking to these beautiful shores! 

Paradise Waiting 

TCI’s reopening an unqualified success. 

By Jayne Baker ~ Photos By Paradise Photography 

It’s the morning of July 22, 2020. Just after noon, American Airlines is due to fly in the first visitors to our 

shores since the borders closed four months prior.The mood on Providenciales is a muddled brew of optimism, 

relief and caution. Aware of the dire need to re-open the Turks & Caicos Islands’ economic lifeline, 

island businesses and tourism partners have worked tirelessly alongside local government to establish 

protocols in the hope that visitors would feel safe visiting our shores again, all the while protecting the 

health of the country, its residents and its valued visitors. 


Questions hung in the air as the plane descended. 

Would the Islands see an overwhelming surge of cases by 

allowing the borders to open? Would tourists even come? 

While the need to open was vital, this small island nation 

didn’t want to be a cautionary tale of what could happen 

by allowing a stream of visitors back too soon. Limited 

hospital facilities meant that the health system could 

quickly become overwhelmed. The PDM Government at 

the time, led by Premier Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson, 

alongside Governor Nigel Dakin, made it very clear: 

Protocols could change quickly and they were ready to 

take swift action to shut things down again should it be 

necessary. 

With the country somewhat holding its breath, AA 

1279 touched down, complete with water-cannon fanfare, 

and with that the Turks & Caicos Islands were open for 

business. 

Well, almost. A little more than a week after opening, 

the TCI found itself in full-on preparation for a possible 

visit by Hurricane Isaias. Thankfully the storm brushed by 

to the south, but the irony of opening the airport only to 

have Mother Nature close it down again a few days later 

seemed apropos for 2020. As the tropical cyclone moved 

off, the airport again re-opened and with it the economic 

lifeline—tourist arrivals. 

In recent years, visitor arrivals (by air) to Turks & 

Caicos have been steadily increasing, growing from 

416,000 in 2018 to 486,000 in 2019. 2020 had the makings 

of a bumper crop. For the months of January and 

February 2020, air arrivals totaled 95,810 versus 84,653 

for the same period in 2019. 

Then in March of 2020 the world stopped, and along 

with it the only meaningful source of income for the Turks 

& Caicos Islands Government and its residents. It was a 

never-before-seen crisis, challenging for any nation, and 

indeed the entire world, to navigate. Being a small island 

country whose only industry is tourism, combined with 

limited health care resources, the government had to 

respond quickly but not rashly. As borders around the 

world closed, the TCI Government came to the only sensible 

decision at their disposal—the country shuttered for 

business on March 23, 2020. 

Initial lockdown restrictions for residents were strict 

—beaches were closed, non-essential travel on the roads 

was forbidden, exercise periods were specified, to name 

a few. Over time, internal restrictions lifted somewhat, 

allowing for local businesses to reopen with capacity limitations. 

But without tourists, it was a mere drop in the 

ocean (albeit a beautiful turquoise one). Entry protocols 

for visitors were established in the hope that they were 

stringent enough to mitigate risk, while not so prohibitive 

they would discourage travelers. 

Arrival numbers at first were predictably low. 

According to arrival statistics published by the Turks & 

Caicos Tourist Board, August 2020 saw 5,595 visitors 

versus 36,550 in the same period of 2019, representing 

about 15% of the previous year’s arrivals. As the months 

passed, that percentage has consistently increased.The 

months of September to November saw about 23% of 

comparative 2019 arrivals. In December that number 

jumped to 34%, seeing 17,241 visitors (versus 51,160 in 

December 2019). 

The cogs of the economy were slowly grinding back 

to life as the page turned on a new year, welcoming in 

2021. Not long into the new year however, following 

trends in the neighboring US (where approximately 83% 

of our tourists come from in a typical year), the Islands 

saw a concerning surge in COVID-19 cases. It was a stark 

reminder that although the Turks & Caicos had been 

managing the crisis well, it was not time to let their guard 

down. The virus still posed a threat to both the health of 

the Islanders and the economy itself. The government 

responded with fluctuating protocols, increasing restrictions 

internally as needed to help curb local transmission 

while still allowing tourists to come to our shores. 

Amidst the surge, in February 2021, the Islands 

went through a local election and change of government. 

Changes in a ruling party can create an unsettled feeling 

at the best of times and questions lingered: How 

would this new government respond? Would restrictions 

be tightened? Too much? Too little? One thing became 

quickly evident—the new PNP Government, led by 

Washington Misick, was as committed as its predecessor 

in its efforts to balance the management of the virus 

while still welcoming visitors. 

The ready availability of vaccines was a large part of 

what made it possible to keep the country open for business. 

On January 7, 2021, courtesy of the UK Government, 

a British Airways plane landed with precious cargo—9,750 

doses of the Pfizer-BioNTech vaccine. 

The roll-out was immediate and impressively efficient. 

While priority was initially given to those working 

in health care and essential services, the vaccine quickly 

became available to anyone wishing to receive it. Within 

a short time, local clinics and pharmacies were offering 

the vaccine with walk-in capabilities. Those receiving the 

vaccine consistently reported being impressed with the 

ease and professionalism of the process. 

54 www.timespub.tc

February 24, 2021 saw the arrival of another 23,400 

Pfizer-BioNTech doses via a special British Airways cargo 

flight. That same plane carried CPAP machines and laboratory 

supplies to support automation of the PCR testing 

facility. A further 14,040 doses of Pfizer-BioNTech and 

300 doses of AstraZeneca vaccines arrived March 31, 

2021. The result was that frontline tourism partners 

(resort, watersports, restaurant and spa staff) quickly 

become fully vaccinated, allowing an added layer of comfort 

and security to those visiting. 

Combined with new data emerging daily regarding 

vaccine efficacy, the potential of a more normal tourism 

season seemed within reach. A recent Cleveland Clinic 

study shows that between January 1 and April 13, 2021, 

99.75 % of patients hospitalized with COVID-19 were not 

fully vaccinated. 

Statistics out of Bermuda in April 2021 also echo the 

importance and efficacy of the vaccine. Facing a surge of 

COVID-19 cases in late spring, the island nation reported 

that 88% of those admitted to hospital were unvaccinated, 

11% were partially vaccinated (one shot) and 1% had both 

shots but had not yet reached the two week mark when 

a person is considered fully protected. But perhaps the 

most important statistic is that there were ZERO cases of 

a fully vaccinated person being hospitalized. 

Like most countries, the vaccination surge in Turks & 

Caicos slowed as time went on and the TCI Government 

put considerable time and resources into outreach to the 

communities where vaccine hesitancy was most prevalent. 

Educational campaigns as well as a community 

mobile vaccine unit have helped to increase the numbers 

of vaccinations amongst those that may have otherwise 

continued to live in fear and misinformation. At time of 

writing (May 2021) it’s estimated that approximately 56% 

of the population is vaccinated. 

If there is a silver lining to be found in navigating 

the pandemic, it may be that local hospital facilities have 

been improved throughout the crisis. Hospital bed capacity 

has increased, a National Laboratory now exists, as 

well as the capability to generate oxygen at both Grand 

Turk and Providenciales hospitals (versus using filled cylinders 

only), meaning they have no fear of running out 

of oxygen. These improvements, alongside vaccinations 

and continued protocols, means the tourist season ahead 

looks hopeful. 

Island businesses echo that optimism. A local hotelier 

reports that bookings for the 2021/22 season are not 

only “back to normal” but have the potential to be record 

breaking. An important factor in making that happen was 


that resorts and health care facilities quickly stepped up 

to provide the required COVID-10 antigen tests for US 

visitors returning home. The establishment of convenient 

and inexpensive testing was another component in making 

the destination a viable and safe choice for travelers. 

Other small businesses such as restaurants, watersports 

operators and spas report a similar promising 

outlook, seeing pre-pandemic numbers or better for the 

future. The local real estate sector is reporting record 

sales. 

With all of this hopeful news, it’s an important 

note that the cruise ship industry worldwide has been 

decimated through the pandemic. In 2019, Grand Turk 

welcomed 359 cruise ships, bringing with them 1,111,818 

visitors and the associated income for the island’s residents 

through jobs and small business opportunities. The 

year 2020 saw only 69 cruise ship arrivals—representing 

a little over 200,000 visitors. 2021 to date has seen zero. 

The current estimate is that the industry won’t resume 

until October 2021. So, while the island of Providenciales 

is rebounding, Grand Turk and some of the sister islands 

are still facing struggles. 

Through it all the Turks & Caicos Tourist Board has 

been working tirelessly with a new public relations firm 

to promote the destination in feeder markets. The portal 

for visitors to receive their travel authorization, found 

at (www.turksandcaicostourism.com) was rolled out 

seamlessly and response time is generally quick and 

easy to receive the necessary approval to travel. The TCI 

Government, even through a change of administration, 

has proven its ability to manage a never-before-encountered 

pandemic scenario while keeping the health of 

both the Islands and its economy paramount. Their focus 

appears to have remained unchanged throughout the 

year: Make good decisions with the best information at 

hand, be ready to adapt, and tell the world that Turks & 

Caicos is ready to welcome you. 

And that message appears to have been received, 

loud and clear. A look at popular social media sites for 

Turks & Caicos backs this up, providing the best source of 

testimonials to the Islands’ recovery—its visitors. Recent 

tourists consistently remark how easy it is to travel here, 

and how impressed they are with local adherence to 

COVID-19 protocols. Every now and then, questions pop 

up on the forums such as, “Is it safe to visit? Should I 

worry about traveling?” They are inevitably met with a 

chorus of island praises but perhaps one traveler said 

it best recently: “I just returned from a week stay, and 

the people were as welcoming as the gorgeous turquoise 

waters and white sand beaches. I can’t wait to go back. 

If you’re considering a trip, don’t hesitate for a moment. 

Book it now.” Paradise is waiting. a 

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dive@flamingodivers.com solsister@flamingodivers.com www.flamingodivers.com 

56 www.timespub.tc

eal estate 

Opposite page: TCI’s pristine, uncrowded beaches are but one reason that people with the means are seeking to purchase an island hideaway 

here in record numbers. 

Above: This Amanyara resort villa, tucked away on Providenciales’ northwestern shore, is an example of the lovely, exclusive properties 

available. 

PROVO PICTURES—COURTESY TURKS & CAICOS SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY 

Hot, Hot, Hot! 

TCI’s real estate market is on fire. 

By Kathy Borsuk 

There’s no doubt summer has arrived in the Turks & Caicos Islands. The somewhat-cooler days, low 

humidity and slanted sunshine of winter and spring have given way to bright, hot days bookended by 

lusciously pastel early mornings and long, tawny evenings. It’s prime time for watersports in the warm 

turquoise sea and basking on the beach with a cool drink. 

Also hot? The TCI real estate market! Property sales at all price points are ablaze as world-weary buyers 

seek safety and solace in this quiet island nation. 


Besides the much-heralded natural beauty of the 

Turks & Caicos Islands’ sparkling seas and sugary 

beaches, the country has yet to be as densely populated 

as many of her Caribbean sisters. Because serious development 

of resorts and villas didn’t start until the turn of 

the millennium, the TCI—and especially the out islands 

—can still boast plenty of space for sprawling out. At the 

same time, infrastructure from electricity to telecommunications, 

airports to roads, is more than sufficient to 

meet the needs of the 21st century. 

As a British Overseas Territory, the TCI benefits from 

a well-established land registry, stable political framework, 

tax-free status, and more recently, the benefit of 

receiving COVID-19 vaccines more quickly and in greater 

number than many other warm-weather destinations. At 

the same time, a cautious and thoughtful government 

response to the pandemic (see “Paradise Waiting” in this 

issue) has allowed the country to reopen safely when 

many other vacation havens are still struggling. 

The Turks & Caicos Real Estate Association (TCREA) is 

a group of 15 independent real estate agencies who work 

together under a managed Multiple Listing System (MLS) 

accessed at www.tcrea.com. The industry compiles and 

reports detailed statistics and the most recent are staggering. 

At the close of the first quarter of 2021, the TCI 

real estate market made history with nearly $128 million 

in closed transactions—up 60% over the same period last 

year, just prior to the pandemic and the country’s fourmonth 

border closing in late March 2020. As reported by 

TCREA in April 2021, there were also over $463 million 

in pending and conditional transactions, not including 

another potential $100 million in new development sales. 

Whew! What is going on? 

The first point is that ultra-luxury and luxury buyers 

are flocking to TCI as a preferred destination. This is 

evidenced in an average sale price (residential and commercial 

market) of nearly $1.5 million in the first quarter 

of 2021, a 63% increase! For single family homes, the 

average price increased 38.5%, with a list to sell ratio of 

92%. For condominiums, the average price jumped 31% 

with a list to sell ratio of 93%. Residential and commercial 

land average prices jumped 72%, as buyers searched 

for vacant land—especially rare beachfront and waterfront—on 

which to build. Currently, realtors report villa 

price ranges from $2.5 million up to the $30 million level. 

Condominium prices are also rising with luxury condos 

approaching and surpassing $1,000 per square foot. 

It’s clear that people with the means want to find a 

safe, exclusive hideaway and TCI fits the bill. According 

to Ivor Stanbrook, managing director of Windward 

Development, the pandemic and successful reopening of 

the country has introduced the market to a new group of 

investors who may not have otherwise known about the 

Turks & Caicos. They are finding a wider choice of properties 

and better value here than in traditional Caribbean 

markets like the Cayman Islands and the Bahamas, along 

with a sense of space and proximity to nature. Also flourishing 

is the villa rental market, as an increasing number 

of families choose to vacation in a private home or villa, 

rather than a resort property. At the same time, owners 

are using their properties for longer periods of time, as 

the ability to work and learn from home becomes easier 

and more accepted. Both factors are clearly driving the 

booming real estate market in TCI. 

While undeveloped beachfront properties in 

Providenciales are nearly non-existent, you can still find 

oceanside vacant land on the out islands of North, South 

and Middle Caicos, Grand Turk and Salt Cay. Inland on 

Providenciales, the neighborhoods of Long Bay, Long Bay 

Hills, Turtle Tail and Cooper Jack offer new villa construction 

and land for a dream home. The longer-established 

areas such as Chalk Sound, Turtle Cove, Thompson Cove, 

Discovery Bay, The Bight and Leeward are already in the 

phase of tearing down and rebuilding or renovating older 

structures, with new construction tucked in between. 

Amanyara (in the North West Point area of 

Providenciales), Parrot Cay and Pine Cay, Ambergris Cay 

and West Caicos are all exclusive areas somewhat separated 

from the mainstream. They are punctuated with 

celebrities, high-end villas and ultra-upscale amenities. 

A recent interview by well-known US television personality 

Star Jones with TCI Deputy Governor Anya Williams, 

Minister of Tourism Josephine Connolly and local lawyer 

Tremmaine Harvey, reinforced what many of the world’s 

working women (and men) are declaring. They all enjoyed 

the freedom and flexibility of working from home during 

the pandemic! As this trend continues, TCI’s stable power 

grid, maintained by Canadian-based Fortis TCI Ltd., and 

excellent telecommunications service provided by Digicel 

and FLOW, become tremendous advantages. 

While commercial air service expands as the US and 

global airlines loosen restrictions and travelers grow in 

confidence, the TCI’s private airports have seen a massive 

influx of private jets. This supports industry trends 

noting a 50% increase in “new to private” travel since the 

pandemic began. This reflects the desire to avoid exposure 

to the virus and well as more schedule flexibility for 

travelers. 

60 www.timespub.tc

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According to Joe Zahm, president of Turks & Caicos 

Sotheby’s International Realty, buyers are coming from 

traditional hubs as well as the New York City tri-state area 

and Ontario, Canada, along with a broader geographic 

base including California, Texas, and the Midwest and 

Southeast US. He says, “We’re also seeing ‘vacation relocation’ 

from harder to access places such as Hawaii, 

Costa Rica and the southern Caribbean.” 

Other advantages to a TCI lifestyle include 350 average 

days of sunshine, modern hospitals and health care 

practitioners, full service banks and temporary and permanent 

residence status available to qualified investors. 

There is a homeowner’s permit, valid for five years and 

allowing recipients and their family members to come and 

go as they wish (without the right to work). Purchasers 

of any home or condominium valued over $300,000 

can apply. With a real estate purchase over $1 million, 

investors can apply for a Permanent Residence Certificate 

(PRC), granting the applicant and spouse the right to 

reside in TCI for life. Children can be endorsed until they 

are 18 years old. The cost is a one-time government fee 

of $25,000, plus $1,500 for spouse and $500 per child, 

along with legal fees. PRC status can lead to TCI (British 

Overseas Territory Citizenship) and, potentially, a British 

passport. Note that foreigners also have the unrestricted 

right to purchase property, and there are no real estate 

taxes. 

If you are planning to build or renovate, there are 

many long established and well qualified local architects, 

builders, contractors and tradesmen for any type of project 

you can dream up. There is a quality skill pool from 

which to draw and the work force comprises 50% of the 

population. 

Besides a record number of established homes, condominiums 

and land transactions in progress, the TCI has 

many new projects under development that will strongly 

affect sales now and in the future. A quick read-through 

of the expansive lists of features and amenities supports 

the ever-growing demand for a second home or vacation 

property in this country. Buyers will lack for nothing and 

are sure to find a property to suit any taste and style. 

Perhaps the most prominent, at 12 stories, is the 

long-awaited Ritz-Carlton Residences due to open this 

summer. This five-star property spans nearly 700 feet of 

prime Grace Bay beachfront over 10.5 acres. According 

to Walter Gardiner Jr., Director of Sales & Marketing for 

the project, “It’s extremely gratifying to watch this dream 

become a reality . . . The combination of having one of 

the world’s best resort brands on the world’s best beach 

62 www.timespub.tc

will solidify the position of the Turks & Caicos Islands 

as the premier vacation and investment destination in 

the Caribbean.” The resort features a luxury hotel, 60 

residences, and world-class amenities managed by 

renowned Ritz-Carlton, with service tailored to individual 

desires—with “ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and 

gentlemen.” Oceanview residences are over 90% sold. 

South Bank is a new residential resort and marina 

community on the south side of Providenciales. Each 

neighborhood and lot offers a unique relationship with 

the water, designed to court boating enthusiasts and 

watersports lovers. Covering 31 acres with 230 feet of 

stunning beachfront along Long Bay Beach and 2,000 

feet of picturesque ironshore, South Bank has planned 

90 units ranging from six-bedroom villas to one-bedroom 

condominiums and townhouses with boat docks. 

Surrounding the fully excavated lagoon, six Lagoon 

Villas are progressing and showing different stages of 

completion, with all 18 Lagoon Villas starting works. The 

Boathouses have an impressive 42% sold or reserved status 

with construction slated to start on August 1, 2021. 

In the Ocean Estate area, two villas are well underway, 

with over half a dozen in early construction phases. This 

community is now over 60% sold or reserved. 

The Beach Enclave brand was designed to combine 

a home environment with the services and amenities of 

a condominium. These dream vacation homes combined 

low density and floor plans that seamlessly blend indoor 

with outdoor living spaces, with modern décor and fun 

amenities. Launched on Provo’s North Shore in 2014, the 

brand now spans five phases of development in three 

locations. 

To appeal to a broader market of home buyers, 

Beach Enclave developers introduced The Club at Beach 

Enclave Long Bay now with eight private Beach Houses 

and a boutique condominium with just 24 hotel rooms, 

The Club Residences. At the heart of The Club will be 

a rooftop Wellness Spa, featuring elevated views of the 

ocean backdrop, sunrises and sunsets. By the pool and 

beach, will be a chic lounge as well as a casual, barefoot 

beach bar. Other amenities include lighted tennis courts, 

a fitness center, a yoga center, a kids’ club and in-house 

watersports. Construction is slated to begin in December 

2021. 

Developers have also cleared ground for Phase 2 of 

Beach Enclave North Shore. It features 10 exclusive two 

to four-bedroom luxury beach and oceanview houses. 

Only one beach house and four oceanview houses remain 


available. Along with a dramatic limestone design feature, 

this project will include an elevated oceanfront club 

lounge, decks with water and fire features, an upgraded 

fitness center and yoga deck, a lighted tennis court, kids 

club and a unique garden teeming with fruit trees. 

The Strand is the TCI’s newest residential resort 

community overlooking the sapphire waters of Cooper 

Jack Bay. This property features dramatic vistas with an 

array of custom oceanfront residences, all with access 

to shared community amenities. Currently in the early 

development phase, visitors can now explore the site via 

paths and multiple viewing areas. Infrastructure works 

are underway and construction is anticipated to soon 

start. Interestingly, The Strand developers are looking to 

partner with a leader in solar home integration; it could 

be the first such community in the Caribbean. 

The developers of Latitude 22 broke ground in late 

May for Karaya Blue. This private residential development 

features six luxury villas, each on a private half acre 

estate bursting with tropical foliage and minutes from the 

Long Bay beachfront. It will also include a fully integrated 

solar electrical system to be at the forefront of sustainable 

development in TCI. 

Sailrock is an evolving development on the country’s 

fishing capital of South Caicos. The project won 

the “Caribbean’s Leading Luxury Island Resort” at the 

2020 World Travel Awards. Sailrock Resort opened its 

doors in January 2017 as the only five-star resort on 

South Caicos, bringing a new level of luxury to the quiet 

island, without disturbing its peaceful rhythms. Sailrock 

includes 33 suites and villas spread over 52 hilltop and 

oceanfront acres. Residences are supported by the Great 

House, a central hub housing a lounge, oceanview deck 

and upscale restaurant and bar. Investors looking for a 

Caribbean home-away-from-home will find it in the Private 

Peninsula Villas neighboring 770-acre enclave. 

Recently resurrected for development is the Royal 

Reef Resort at Sandy Point, North Caicos. This condominium/hotel 

resort is located on 19 acres of beachfront 

land with over 500 feet of beachfront, and will comprise 

139 residential units and a 90-room hotel building and 

spa on completion. 

Realtors agree—NOW is the time to secure your safe 

haven in paradise, as prices continue to rise and the 

properties available become more scarce. They note that 

many real estate offices offer the latest technology for virtual 

showings. Looking to the future, the Turks & Caicos 

Islands continue to strengthen and move to the next level 

as a global luxury and tourism brand. a 

64 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe 

newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI TKCA 1ZZ 

tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org 

MICHAEL PATEMAN 

This collage is a compilation of some of Dr. Michael Pateman’s memories as director of the Turks & Caicos National Museum. 

Saying Goodbye . . . For Now 

I am sad to say that this will be my last issue as editor of Astrolabe. Since I took on the responsibility, we 

have shared many stories, including a series on the TCI during the World Wars, various adventures and 

archaeological and filming projects, efforts to preserve TCI heritage and more. My experiences in the 

Turks & Caicos have been life-changing and I will cherish all of my memories and relationships forged. 

While I am saying goodbye as editor, you will still be able to follow some of my research and adventures. 

I will continue to contribute articles to Astrolabe and I have joined the team of Bill Keegan and 

Betsy Carlson in reviving “Talking Taino”. Thank you to all the contributors who submitted articles over 

the last several years. I hope our readers and supporters have enjoyed them as much as I have! 

In this edition, Marjorie Sadler discusses a plan created by the TCI’s first president (Frederick Forth) 

through a historic map of Grand Turk. This story and more are included in the newly revised book, Turks 

Islands Landfall, available in the museum gift shop. Lisa Turnbow-Talbot discusses “different” ways to 

contribute to the museum. Do you have an artistic, historic or cultural research question or article you 

would like to submit to Astrolabe? Contact us at info@tcmuseum.org. a 

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D., former Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum 


astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

NATIONAL ARCHIVES OF THE UK, C0 700/TURKS ISLANDS S3/3 

This is the map of Grand Turk presented by President Forth to the Governor of Jamaica in 1849 to supplement his proposal to develop North 

Creek as a “Harbour of Refuge.” 

If Maps Could Talk . . . 

Visualizing the Grand Turk of yesteryear. 

Story and Images Courtesy Marjorie Sadler 

In the final pages of H.E. Sadler’s book, Turks Islands Landfall, the author (my father) gives some history 

of North Creek in Grand Turk which President Forth (served 1848–1854) believed was a huge asset to 

the island simply awaiting development. Forth was the Turks & Caicos Islands’ first President under the 

newly organized and quasi-self-governing Presidency following the Islands’ separation from the Bahamas 

in 1848. While Forth proved quite unpopular with the local bureaucracy because of his autocratic manner, 

he did have some innovative ideas to profit the Islands, although some were quite contentious at the time. 

66 www.timespub.tc


Foremost of these was his proposal to develop the 

North Creek as a “Harbour of Refuge” to provide shelter 

for small craft of the Islands, but also a safe harbour 

for larger trading vessels, particularly salt cargoes. North 

Creek is a large, beautiful and calm expanse of water 

whose narrow entrance to the ocean was often blocked 

by past storms. 

Forth presented his ideas to the Governor of Jamaica, 

Sir Charles Grey in November 1849, along with a Plan of 

the Island, drawn up by Major E.C. Soden of the 2nd West 

Indies Regiment, who had conducted a survey of Grand 

Turk with particular reference to the site of the new lighthouse. 

There was also a survey of the island’s reefs and 

soundings taken by Captain Owen of the Royal Navy. 

The Harbour of Refuge envisioned by the president 

called for: 

“A Civil Engineer of moderate ability . . . by a succession 

of ‘Blasts’ properly directed and the subsequent 

use of a diving bell, could in less than eighteen months . 

. . with the assistance of 600 convicts 1 properly officered 

lower the reef in front of the entrance into the Harbour 

to a depth equal to the admission of the largest vessels 

. . . Within the same period a sufficient channel could be 

opened into the harbour . . .” 

The resultant plan/map illustrating this project and 

the rest of Grand Turk was found in the UK National 

Archives and is shown here—first in its entirety, then in 

four sections for easier viewing. 

It is really a remarkable depiction of the island showing 

in exquisite detail its elemental features. Forth’s 

proposed harbour appears in the map section on the next 

page. It illustrates that, once having opened up the channel, 

a proper wharf could be constructed at the southern 

end of the creek, and from that point a railway would link 

it to the center of town across from the large Town Salina, 

to its terminus at about where the old jail stood (Church 

Folly and Lighthouse Road). Presumably, its proximity to 

the largest salinas would facilitate the loading of salt cargoes 

for outbound vessels from the new harbour. 

It sounded like a grand, if ambitious project. Sadler 

writes that “the Hydrographer of the Navy advised the 

Crown against the proposed Harbour of Refuge as an 

expensive and impractical scheme which ‘could not for 

a moment be entertained.’” The plan was subsequently 

rejected by the Colonial Office. 

Ultimately, President Forth didn’t realize this dream. 

But was it really so far-fetched? Traditionally, the loading 

of salt onto vessels took place in the town’s open road- 

1 

Forth’s proposal to use convicts for this and other development schemes was due to the lack of sufficient labour in Grand Turk to carry out large 

projects, but the controversial plan incurred the anger of many establishment figures and the general population who refused to countenance the 

idea of imported criminals living amongst them. 

MARINAS.COM 

This aerial view shows North Creek’s large expanse of calm water, along with its narrow entrance to the ocean. 



stead 2 , a circumstance not 

without danger to vessels 

in stormy weather. It was 

extremely labour intensive 

in offloading cargo 

and loading salt, requiring 

the use of multiple 

small lighters and at times 

taking several days to 

complete a load. Against 

this, Forth’s harbour and 

rail line seems like it could 

have saved an immense 

amount of time, labour 

and expense. Forth’s successor, 

President Inglis, 

also saw the wisdom of the 

Harbour of Refuge and ten 

years later in 1859, was 

pushing a proposal from 

an American investor: 

“This project . . . is 

proposed to be effected 

by means of a ship canal, 

entering into the creek to 

be combined with marine 

and other railways, for the 

repairs of shipping and 

conveyance of salt, would 

prove the means of rendering 

the Turks Islands, 

from the central position 

they occupy as regards the 

West Indies . . . An important 

commercial depot and 

coaling station for steamers. 

. . . Where a fleet could lie moored as in a dock, 

which it is, of nature’s handiwork—containing sufficient 

water for any class of merchant vessels and most men of 

war . . .” 

This section of the map shows the projected lighthouse and its location, the proposed channel into North 

Creek and a wharf at the southern end of the creek. The inset depicts several of the shipwrecks found on 

the Northeast Reef. 

The project favoured by Inglis did not come to fruition 

due to the American Civil War and the investor’s 

inability to secure financing. But it had the potential of 

making Grand Turk a hub for West Indies shipping and 

who knows, may even have recaptured its status as the 

Caribbean coaling station for steamers which was lost 

to the island of St. Thomas after the fateful wreck of the 

RM Medina in 1842. North Creek languished thereafter 

until the 1980s when another project for its development 

as a yachting haven for Caribbean cruising vessels was 

begun but terminated after a few years due to differences 

between the developers and the local government. The 

corroding remains of that project’s machinery and elaborate 

equipment remain part of the landscape at North 

Creek even to this day. 


2 

The perils encountered by several vessels in the Roadstead are described in the book’s “Open Roadstead” section. 

68 www.timespub.tc


Returning to President Forth and this remarkable 

map—his other important objective in completing this 

survey was to finally secure British approval and funding 

for a modern, functional lighthouse for the northeast end 

of Grand Turk. It’s no secret that many ships met their 

demise on the island’s treacherous Northeast Reef, due 

largely to the inefficiency of the antiquated lighthouse 

then, described by Forth as “a miserable weather boarded 

structure—30' high.” 3 He was quick to blame the disastrous 

loss of the important mail steamer, RM Medina, 

on the lack of a proper lighthouse. (Many of these shipwrecks 

on the Northeast Reef are documented in the 

Turks Islands Landfall chapter on shipwrecks.) 

Happily, the president achieved that objective and 

Sadler states that: 

“President Forth must be given credit for securing the 

erection of the first modern lighthouse at Grand Turk in 

the year 1852 . . . This action saved the salt trade since, 

because of the perils of navigation, vessels had been 

refusing to call for salt cargoes.” 

Detail in the map on the opposite page shows the 

artist’s rendition of the proposed lighthouse, in the location 

where it stands today. Just northeast of the proposed 

structure is shown the location of several shipwrecks 

which had been found by the Royal Navy’s Captain Owen 

and his crew while surveying the reefs; these were some 

of the most noteworthy wrecks in 1849 and earlier. 

Looking closely, or using a magnifier, one can see: the RM 

Medina (1842), Sturdy Oak (1849), Susan Currier (1849), 

Columbus (1847), Schooner Banner (1849), General 

Coffin (1842) and others un-named or indecipherable. 

Owen would naturally have found only a smattering of the 

wrecks which had transpired on that reef—those whose 

remains were still visible at the time of the survey. But 

these findings and local knowledge of many others were 

sufficient to bolster President Forth’s case that the time 

had come for a modern lighthouse. 

What of the other areas on the island depicted in 

Forth’s Plan? See the smart grid layout of Cockburn 

Town on the following page. There one can see Queen 

Square (as it was then called) running from Pond Street 

to the Front Street Waterfront, with a building marked 

—the original jail, which was destroyed in the 1866 

hurricane, but rebuilt later in more or less the same location. 

The Victoria Public Library was later to be placed 

The Grand Turk Lighthouse of today is quite different from the “old 

lantern mounted on a pole” described by President Forth. 

at this Square in 1889, so is not shown on the plan. The 

Customs House on the waterfront is noted, so is the town 

wharf, the streets and buildings in the north, south and 

east suburbs, the saltwater canals feeding the salina reservoirs 

(which are all still there today) and the vast areas 

of salt ponds. 

You can see the large Town Salina, in the center of 

which is the little island called the old Burial Ground, 

where paupers, sick and the contagious were buried. 

Crossing Church Folly led to St. Thomas’ Church, built 

of Bermuda stone in 1822, the island’s oldest church, 

still standing and in use; next is the Mathew Tank, built 

around 1845–6 and named after Governor Mathew 

of the Bahamas, who visited the Islands prior to their 

divorce from the Bahamas and eventually sympathized 

with the Islanders’ pleas for the political separation. 

The tank remains the largest water catchment on the 

island. Depicted also are the Baptist Church, the original 

Methodist Chapel on Red Salina, and the Parade Ground 

—all of which remain exactly where they are today. 

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 

3 

This was lit by 12 ordinary tallow candles without any reflectors. Before this structure there had only been an old lantern mounted on a pole. 



Looking up towards the 

southeastern side of Grand 

Turk sits South Creek and at 

its mouth Columbus Island— 

directly facing Gibb’s Cay. 

(See map at top of opposite 

page.) At left is the high 

ground at Matherson’s Point. 

It was here, Sadler writes, 

where Columbus approached 

in his longboat after anchoring 

the fleet in the nearby 

sheltered harbour of Hawkes’ 

Nest. Little Columbus Island, 

Gibb’s Cay, Matherson’s 

Point and land beyond on 

that high ridge overlooking 

the eastern shore were part 

of George Gibbs’ landholdings. 

Gibbs was an important 

figure in the island’s legislature. 

He was also a noted 

historian, and vocal proponent 

of Columbus’s landfall 

at Grand Turk. 

This map pinpoints the 

Gun Hill fortification built in 

1791, when there was tension 

over a feared French 

invasion from Hispaniola. 

Notice also the old plantation 

near the Hawk’s Nest 

Salina. The bottom map 

on the opposite page (SW 

Detail) shows the Hawes 

Salina; also, the plantation of 

James Misick and his house 

“Waterloo” built around 1815 

to commemorate the famous 

battle. The property was later 

acquired by the government 

as the official residence for 

the president and sits facing 

the famous anchorage of 

“Riding Ground,” location of 

Governor’s Beach. 

Above: This section of the map shows the southern half of Grand Turk, with inset details of the Town 

Center and other notable landmarks of Cockburn Town. 

Below: Built around 1845–6, Mathew Tank remains the largest water catchment on Grand Turk. 


70 www.timespub.tc


Many more historic 

landmarks and areas are 

depicted here for those 

who have the eyes and 

patience to peruse. It’s a 

marvelous work of art, of 

utmost historic interest, 

but more vitally, a unique 

pictorial record of Grand 

Turk as it was nearly 

200 years ago. The modern-day 

similarities are 

fascinating. a 

As a postcript, I am 

indebted to the late Terry 

Richardson, a friend 

from Grand Turk and 

Providenciales, retired 

surveyor and avid follower 

of Turks Islands 

history, who discovered 

this invaluable relic in 

the UK National Archives 

years ago, and kindly 

brought it to my attention 

while I was editing this latest 

edition of my father’s 

book. The UK National 

Archives have granted 

permission for its publication 

in the book Turks 

Islands Landfall. 

Above: Side B, SE Detail shows South Creek, the little island at its mouth (Columbus Island), and Gibbs Cay, 

with Matherson’s Point on the left peninsula and Gun Hill on the right with its fortifications. See, too, St. 

Thomas’s Church and Mathew Tank off to the left. 

Bottom: Side B, SW Detail shows the Riding Ground anchorage, across from Waterloo, which was later 

acquired as the official Presidential Residence. 


This beautiful sunset took place near the mouth of North Creek in Grand Turk. 

JAMES ROY—PARADISE PHOTOGRAPHY 



This collage is just a small sampling of the photos donated to the Turks & Caicos National Museum by Barbara Currie Dailey. They represent 

festivals, events and the general lifestyle on Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay during the late 1970s. 

What’s Hiding in 

Your Closet? 

Donations are the lifeblood of the National Museum. 

Story & Photo Collages By Lisa Turnbow-Talbot 

Everyone knows that non-profit organizations rely on monetary donations, but for the Turks & Caicos 

National Museum that is not the only donation that matters. Gifts-in-kind of photographs, videotapes, 

books, pamphlets, manuscripts, maps, historical objects, business records, organization records, government 

records and oral histories are all important in documenting history and culture through the years. 

72 www.timespub.tc


This collage is a sampling of images donated by Moira and Alan Bishop, who spent time on Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay during the 

1960s and 1970s. 

Photographs are perhaps the most common and 

currently, the easiest way of documenting history. While 

photos of prominent places and famous people are commonplace, 

it is often those photos of everyday people in 

their element that truly capture our cultural history. The 

lifestyles of people working, socializing, celebrating and 

spending time with their families are all part of a country’s 

culture. 

When you look at a photo, it brings that particular 

time in history to life. Wall carvings and paintings 

throughout the world are the photographs of their time. 

A great deal of what we know about many ancient cultures 

is derived from those etchings. 

What’s hiding in your closet that may be of historical 

value? Many of us may remember sorting through boxes 

of photographs left by family members after they passed 

or when cleaning out closets. Photos are now more likely 

to be stored on a phone or online, but you may still find 

older items stashed away in Grandma’s shoe box. 

The culture and how people lived even between the 

Islands in the Turks & Caicos varied widely. This article 

focuses on photos from some of our collections and the 

people who donated them. As there are too many to list 

them all, this is just a small sample of those who have 

contributed to recording the history of the Turks & Caicos 

in photographs. 

Barbara Currie Dailey donated a large collection 

(over 1,000 photographs) taken in the late 1970s. Her 

photos represent festivals, events and the general lifestyle 

on Grand Turk, South Caicos and Providenciales. It 

was difficult to choose which of her photos to highlight 

as there are so many valuable images. 

Moira and Alan Bishop spent time on Grand Turk, 

South Caicos and Salt Cay during the 1960s and 1970s. 

In addition to over 300 photos, they also donated a collection 

of postcards. 

We often have military persons who were based on 

Grand Turk or South Caicos in the past return for visits 

and donate various items from their time spent on 

the island. One of our largest collections of photographs 

was donated by Ted Philippona. He was stationed 

on Grand Turk from 1954 to 1968. His collection contains 

over 600 photos and several videos of Grand Turk, 

Salt Cay and South Caicos. He captures “true life” from 

the mid-1950s to the late 1960s—the faces of children 

playing and people working and living everyday life. His 

collection provided us with some of the only photographs 

from John Glenn’s landing in 1964 and the Mercury 

Friendship 7 being loaded from the dock and taken to 

the airport on Grand Turk. 



Ted Philippona was stationed on Grand Turk from 1954 to 1968. This collage is a sampling of his “true life” images. 

Art St. John served as the commanding officer of 

“Waldo II,” the temporary US Coast Guard LORAN station 

set up in the old Navy Base at the north end of Grand 

Turk. He lived in Guinep House, which is now the Turks & 

Caicos National Museum. He donated 150 digital copies 

of photos he took from 1957 to 1958. 

There are many others who have provided us with 

photos over the years, including Peter Bleackley, Charles 

Bliley, Bengt Soderqvist, JR McCollum and Kim Ludington. 

We encourage you to look through your own photos 

taken in past visits to the Islands and share them with 

the museum. Yet photographs are not the only items that 

have been donated over the years. In our archives we 

have pottery sherds, Lucayan stones and beads, newsletters 

from the Navy bases, legislative records, church 

records, postcards, paintings and more. 

What special item from history do you have stored 

away in a drawer or storage container? The museum has 

interest in photos and objects that reflect any part or era 

of our history. It does not matter if you have one or 1,000 

items of interest—sometimes that one photo can reflect 

an immeasurable part of history. 

74 www.timespub.tc


Top: This Art St. John collage reflects the time he served as commanding officer of the US Coast Guard station on Grand Turk from 1957 to 

1958. Bottom: This collage is a sampling of the photos from the many others—including Peter Bleackley, Charles Bliley, Bengt Soderqvist, JR 

McCollum and Kim Ludington—who have provided photos to the museum over the years. 

We are a small museum and we make it fairly simple 

to donate. The biggest challenge is usually getting the 

items here if they are not already in the Islands. This is 

another advantage of photographs, as they can easily be 

scanned or downloaded and submitted to us digitally. 

There are a few things to know regarding your 

donations: 

• Not all items are included in an exhibit or put on display. 

Items that are not on display are kept in our secure 

and climate-controlled archives located in the Science 

Building on Grand Turk. If not used right away, your 

donation could be used in future exhibits, publication 

articles, educational materials or by researchers. 

• We are not able to appraise items. 

• Once the donation is made, the items become the 

property of the museum. You will receive a Deed of Gift 

that legally transfers the ownership to the museum. 

• If you request recognition, we can acknowledge you for 

the donation if used in any way. 

(CONTINUED ON BOTTOM OF NEXT PAGE) 



Museum Matters 

New opening hours 

The Grand Turk Museum is now open every Tuesday 

and Thursday from 10 AM to 3 PM. No appointment is 

necessary for these days. Special arrangements can be 

requested for large groups and we will try to accommodate 

any request. 

The Providenciales Museum reopened on May 1, 

2021 after being closed in March 2020 to comply with 

the COVID-19 shutdown. Thanks to the assistance of 

several volunteers, we are able to be open from 10 

AM to 2 PM on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and 

Saturday. We were pleased to have HE Governor Nigel 

Dakin and his wife attend the reopening, along with 

several other hotel representatives and guests. We look 

forward to continuing to improve and expand here. 

Everyone is encouraged to visit the National Museum 

at either location and learn about the history and culture 

of the Turks & Caicos Islands. a 

New items in the gift shop 

The gift shop at both museum locations is proud to 

offer the new edition of Turks Islands Landfall. This 

new and expanded second edition preserves all of the 

author’s original work published in the 1997 edition, 

but contains much new research and material. Marjorie 

Sadler, daughter of author H.E. Sadler, has released this 

updated 434-page hardcover book with color and black 

and white photographs and illustrations. 

We’re also selling copies of Historic South Caicos. 

This is a strikingly illustrated book with full-length, 

full-color historical overviews, 

anecdotes, illustrations and 

archival photographs of the 

island and its stunning surroundings. 

The 430-page 

hardcover is authored by Dr. 

Christian J. Buys. 

Other books we carry about 

the history of the Turks & 

Caicos Islands include Stories 

from Around the Islands by 

Candy Herwin; Coming in for 

a Landing by Embry Rucker; and Looking Back in Salt 

Cay by Patronella A. Been. 

For children we can’t forget the lovable story, Where 

is Simon, Sandy?. Written by author Donna Seim, this 

book tells a folktale that had been passed down by word 

of mouth for generations. It was recently released in a 

Spanish version. All proceeds from the sale of this book 

go to the Turks & Caicos National Museum Children’s 

Club. This story, as well as Donna’s other books including 

Hurricane Mia and Satchi and Little Star, bring to 

life the charm of the Islands and their people. 

These books make great gifts, coffee table books, 

and additions to vacation rental villas and condominiums, 

providing enjoyable reading that increases 

knowledge of the Turks & Caicos Islands. a 

Story & Photos By Lisa Turnbow-Talbot 

(CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE) 

• The more information you can provide about 

the item helps us to evaluate how we can use and 

document it. Information such as “who, what, when 

and where” are essential for the educational and 

research value of your donation. 

If you have items that you wish to donate, 

please email us at info@tcmuseum.org. a 

All photos in this article are the property of the 

Turks & Caicos National Museum and any duplication 

or reproduction without the expressed written 

permission of the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

is prohibited. 

76 www.timespub.tc

about the Islands 

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, The 

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com. 

Where we are 

The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast 

of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — 

with The Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and 

the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast. 

The country consists of two island groups separated 

by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are 

the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North 

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To 

the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay. 

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land 

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s 

population is approximately 43,000. 

Getting here 

There are international airports on Grand Turk, 

Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports 

on all of the islands except East Caicos. 

The TCI is requiring a negative COVID-19 PCR 

test result from a test taken within five days of travel. 

(Children under the age of 10 are not required to be 

tested.) Additionally, travellers must have medical/travel 

insurance that covers medevac, a completed health 

screening questionnaire, and certification that they have 

read and agreed to the privacy policy document. These 

requirements must be completed and uploaded to the 

TCI Assured portal, which is available on the TCI Tourist 

Board website (www.turksandcaicostourism.com), in 

advance of their arrival. 


The TCI has expanded COVID-19 testing capacity in 

response to testing requirements implemented for travellers 

entering the United States and Canada. Many resorts 

offer on-site testing, along with numerous local health 

practitioners. 

Language 

English. 

Time zone 

Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time 

observed. 

Currency 

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks 

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S. 

dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be 

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and 

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations. 

Climate 

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The 

hottest months are September and October, when the 

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However, 

the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and 

keep life comfortable. 

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for 

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on 

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing 

and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out 

in the tropical sun. 

Entry requirements 

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required. 

Customs formalities 

Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton 

of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine, 

and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including 

those charged with compressed air without prior 

approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is 

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled 

drugs and pornography are also illegal. 

Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of 

merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to 

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a 

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of 

government revenue. 

Transportation 

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting 

vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all 

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the 

left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by 

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and 

drive! Taxis and community cabs are abundant throughout 

the Islands and many resorts offer shuttle service 

between popular visitor areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and 

bicycle rentals are also available. 

Telecommunications 

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband 

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network, 

including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts 

78 www.timespub.tc

and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet 

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with 

a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier 

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and 

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets 

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can 

arrange international roaming. 

Electricity 

FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ, 

and either single phase or three phase at one of three 

standard voltages for residential or commercial service. 

FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid 

to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The 

company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and 

provides options for customers to participate in two solar 

energy programs. 

Departure tax 

US $60. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost. 

Courier service 

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on 

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is 

limited to incoming delivery. 

Postal service 

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is 

located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the 

Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The 

Islands are known for their colorful stamp issues. 

Media 

Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S. 

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air. 

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island 

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally 

transmitted television stations, along with local news 

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of 

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers. 

Medical services 

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are 

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales. 

Both hospitals offer a full range of services including: 

24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic 

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank, 

physiotherapy, and dentistry. 

In addition, several general practitioners operate in 

Food for Thought provides free daily 

breakfast to government school students. 

A donation of $300 will provide breakfast 

to one child for a whole school year. 

To donate or learn more please 

email info@foodforthoughttci.com 

or visit foodforthoughttci.com 

Food for Thought Foundation Inc. (NP #102) 


the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along 

with a number of private pharmacies. 

Immigration 

A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A 

work permit and business license are also required to 

work and/or establish a business. These are generally 

granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications 

not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given 

to enterprises that will provide employment and training 

for T&C Islanders. 

Government/Legal system 

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed 

Governor, HE Nigel John Dakin. He presides over an executive 

council formed by the elected local government. 

Hon. Charles Washington Misick is the country’s new premier, 

leading a majority Progressive National Party (PNP) 

House of Assembly. 

The legal system is based upon English Common 

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief 

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court 

of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final 

Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London. 

Taxes 

There are currently no direct taxes on either income 

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no 

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs 

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations, 

restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline, 

as well as business license fees and departure taxes. 

Economy 

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt. 

Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and 

fishing generate the most private sector income. The 

Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically 

all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported. 

The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an 

important offshore financial centre, offering services 

such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking, 

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies. 

The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry 

and spearheads the development of offshore legislation. 

People 

Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed 

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African 

slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the 

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large 

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans, 

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans, 

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos. 

Churches 

Churches are the center of community life and there 

are many faiths represented in the Islands including: 

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist, 

Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses, 

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome. 

Pets 

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary 

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test 

results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain 

clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal 

Health Services. 

National symbols 

The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis). 

The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium 

bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The 

National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var. 

bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton 

dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts 

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing 

the various islands are displayed on the sleeves 

and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours” by 

the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits) 

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare. 

Going green 

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling 

services through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum, 

glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been 

banned country-wide as of May 1, 2019. 

Recreation 

Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors 

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing, 

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing, 

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba 

diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and 

beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and 

excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination. 

Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship 

course on Providenciales—are also popular. 

80 www.timespub.tc

The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can 

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33 

national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas of 

historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides 

to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of major 

historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on 

Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A 

scheduled ferry and a selection of tour operators make it 

easy to take day trips to the outer islands. 

Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback 

riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are 

available to motivate you, working out of several fitness 

centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment 

services. 

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music 

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is 

a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic 

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary! 

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts, 

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts, 

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets 

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods, 

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing 

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a 

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WE ARE LEADING THE CHANGE 

FOR A NEW ENERGY FUTURE 

Our executive team: (L-r) Senior Vice President of Operations Devon Cox; Vice President of Corporate 

Services and CFO Aisha Laporte; President and CEO Ruth Forbes; Vice President of Grand Turk and 

Sister Island Operations Allan Robinson; Vice President of Innovation, Technology and Strategic Planning 

Rachell Roullet and Vice President of Engineering and Energy Production and Delivery Don Forsyth 

The energy landscape is changing. 

And at FortisTCI, we are leading the transition to cleaner energy with 

innovative solutions, and the highest level of service to customers. 

With sustainability as a guiding principle, we are strategically investing 

in new technologies, people and processes to deliver least-cost, reliable, 

resilient and sustainable energy to keep the Turks and Caicos Islands 

economy moving forward. 

At FortisTCI, we are powered by a team of energy experts, who are proud 

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Each franchise is Independently Owned and Operated.

Times of the Islands Summer 2021

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