AnnualReport2020

GRAPE METABOLOMICS & CELL COSMETICS
LE STUDIUM WORKSHOP
AROUND THE PROJECTS
Life & Health Sciences 2020
46
Dr Magdalena Malinowska
LE STUDIUM Guest Research Fellow
ARD 2020 COSMETOSCIENCES Programme
From: Cracow University of Technology - PL
In residence at: Biomolecule and Plant
Biotechnology (BBV) - Tours
Nationality: Polish
Dates: October 2019 to October 2020
Doctor Magdalena Malinowska works as an
Assistant Professor at Cracow University of
Technology, the Faculty of Chemical Engineering
and Technology. Her PhD thesis was based on
the synthesis of novel triterpenes as potential
active substances for skin regeneration. She
has the experience in organic synthesis, modern
extraction techniques, compounds isolation and
purification and their analysis. Her research is
focused on the determination of biological activity,
bioavailability, evaluation of skin permeability
and the safety of use for chemical substances.
Her professional experience covers also the
technology of modern cosmetic formulations,
the evaluation of their physicochemical and
rheological properties as well as development of
novel cosmetic recipes allowing for encapsulation
of natural active substances.
Dr Arnaud Lanoue
Host Scientist
Doctor Arnaud Lanoue is Assistant Professor at
University of Tours, BBV Laboratory (Laboratoire
Biomolécules et Biotechnologies Végétales
EA2106). He is the author of numerous publications
concerning plant metabolomics analysis and
screening of natural products with biological
activities. His professional experience covers the
development of bio-based active ingredients for
various applications using methods derived from
green chemistry. His research is currently focused
on the molecular diversity in grapevine in relation
to different genetic in environmental factors.
Carring out a metabolic mapping of various grape
varieties, including rare species, will allow to
multiply rare or ancient grape varieties to their
future exploitation. Doctor Arnaud Lanoue applies
high-throughput biochemical analysis techniques
such as metabolomics which allow to grasp
remarkable complexity of natural vine products.
His scientific studies have shown that European
vines have a specific biomolecule composition
which is linked to their genetic background.
The research project “Grape Metabolomics & Cell Cosmetics” focuses on
the metabolomics screening of ancient, rare grape varieties from Loire
Valley for the development of plant cell lines producing active cosmetics.
Various grape cultivars present a remarkable diversity of original natural
substances capable of being valued by the cosmetic and dermatological
sectors. Grape extracts enriched with natural antioxidant substances can
be used as cosmetic active ingredients, especially with anti-aging potential.
Today, high-throughput biochemical analysis techniques, such as
metabolomics, make it possible to understand this remarkable complexity
of natural vine products.
A first step in this project was to carry out a metabolic mapping of ancient
regional grape varieties in order to assess their potential in cosmetic active
ingredients.
Samples of 107 grape cultivars, including six rare cultivars from Loire Valley
region, were collected in the grape collection maintained by URGC (Union
pour les Ressources Génétiques du Centre).
In October 2019 berries and leaves were harvested and in January, grape
canes, representing the winter by-products of viticulture, have also been
picked. All three organs were freezed, lyophilized, and extracted using
ultrasound assisted extraction method. The UPLC-MS analysis ensured
the identification and quatification of 104 grape metabolites, including
stilbenoids, flavonols, flavan-3-ols, aminoacids, phenolic acids and
anthocyanidins. Biological activity of the dry extracts was determined by the
evaluation of antioxidant activity by four different methods (DPPH, FRAP,
CUPRAC, ABTS) and by the measurement of the extracts influence on
tyrosinase inhibition and sirtuin activity. The results of the composition and
biological effect of berries, leaves and canes (rare cultivars compared to
the selected common ones) allowed for the determination of metabolomics
profiles of all three grape organs and for the determination of the most
valuable composition that can be useful for cosmetic purposes.
The second phase covered the initiation of in vitro culture processes applied
to rare or extinct Loire Valley grape varieties. This exploratory work will
provide access to rare or ancient plant material that has the potential to
produce natural substances of original cosmetic interest compared to the
grape varieties conventionally used.
EXPLORING THE MOLECULAR DIVERSITY OF
GRAPE, A SOURCE OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS
The workshop entitled “Exploring
the molecular diversity of grape,
a source of natural ingredients”
took place virtually on December
3, 2020.
Grapevines and their byproducts
produce a broad range of
specialized metabolites, including
flavonoid- and stilbenoid-type
compounds, that exhibit diverse
biological activities highly sought
by biomass-based industries.
Among the large molecular
diversity present in grape, only few
lead molecules are exploited. This
is the case for resveratrol; currently
exploited as food supplements and
cosmetics ingredient for its antiaging
properties and for oligomeric
pro-anthocyanidins (OPCs) that are used for several health purposes including
the prevention of cardiac and Alzheimer diseases. Beyond these two wellknown
lead molecules, grapevine is a natural source for a myriad of other
biomass-derived molecules that remains underexplored. The objective of the
present workshop is to build-up a transversal platform for the development of
novel grape biomass-derived chemicals with outputs in pharmacy, cosmetics
and sustainable agriculture. Several aspects will be covered in a top-down
approach such as impact of climate change on phytochemicals, green extraction
technologies, comprehensive analytical tools and biological activities.
This international workshop was organised online in the framework of the
COSMETOSCIENCES ARD 2020 Programme.
Scientific Publications
• Magdalena Anna Malinowska, Kevin
Billet, Samantha Drouet, Thibaut
Munsch, Marianne Unlubayir, Nathalie
Giglioli-Guivarc’h, Christophe Hano,
Arnaud Lanoue, Grape cane extracts
as multifunctional rejuvenating
cosmetic ingredient: Evaluation of
sirtuin activity, tyrosinase inhibition
and bioavailability potential, Molecules
2020, 25(9), 2203. https://doi.
org/10.3390/molecules25092203
• Kévin Billet, Magdalena Anna
Malinowska, Thibaut Munsch,
Marianne Unlubayir, Sophie Adler,
Guillaume Delanoue, Arnaud Lanoue,
Semi-Targeted Metabolomics to
Validate Biomarkers of Grape
Downy Mildew Infection Under Field
Conditions, Plants (Basel). 2020,
9(8),1008. https://doi.org/10.3390/
Book chapters
• Kevin Billet, Malinowska Anna
Malinowska, Thibaut Munsch, Marianne
Unlubayir, Thomas Dugé de Bernonville,
Sébastien Besseau, Vincent Courdavault,
Audrey Oudin, Olivier Pichon, Marc
Clastre, Nathalie Giglioli-Guivarc’h,
Arnaud Lanoue, Stilbenoid-Enriched
Grape Cane Extracts for the Biocontrol
of Grapevine Diseases. In: Mérillon JM.,
Ramawat K.G. (eds) Plant Defence:
Biological Control. Progress in Biological
Control, vol 22. Springer, Cham. https://
doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-51034-3_9
Oral communications
• Magdalena Malinowska, Grape
metabolomics and cell cosmetics,
LeStudium Thurdsday meeting, University
of Tours, 1.10.2020
• Magdalena Malinowska, Grape
metabolomics and cell cosmetics, French
network on Plant Specialized Metabolism:
Meta SP, University of Tours, 15.10.2020
(online conference)
Life & Health Sciences 2020
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