08.06.2021 Views

EA Season Guides_Spring-Summer 21

  • No tags were found...

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

SPRING-SUMMER <strong>21</strong><br />

Guide<br />

learn to kitesurf<br />

in Shorabad<br />

p.18<br />

the hiking trails<br />

in the north<br />

p.22<br />

the highlights<br />

of old Sheki<br />

p.28<br />

travel back to<br />

the Oil Boom<br />

p.34


Welcome!<br />

Borders remained closed in Azerbaijan due to the pandemic, but<br />

vaccines being rolled out means hope is on the horizon – so now is a<br />

good time to start thinking about that future trip to this fascinating<br />

country. Within these pages, we’ve put together some of the best<br />

Azerbaijan experiences in spring and summer, from relaxing at<br />

seaside resorts, to hiking in the Caucasus Mountains, to Formula 1<br />

cars whizzing around central Baku. Put simply, spring is when nature<br />

reawakens and the country’s diverse landscapes become fabulously<br />

green and fecund, while summers are hot and sunny and a great time<br />

to escape to the Caspian coast or to the mountains. Both seasons<br />

have plenty to surprise and delight!<br />

Have<br />

something<br />

to say?<br />

A race to remember<br />

The Azerbaijan Grand Prix 4<br />

EURO 2020 is coming<br />

to Baku 12<br />

Top seaside retreats<br />

near Baku 14<br />

GO<br />

kitesurfing<br />

in Shorabad<br />

18<br />

Trek the trails<br />

of northern Azerbaijan 22<br />

Highlights<br />

of historic Sheki 28<br />

Travel back<br />

to the Oil Boom 34<br />

Beat the<br />

heat with<br />

these<br />

drinks 40<br />

To send us your feedback, write to the editor<br />

at experienceazerbaijan@tourismboard.az.<br />

We look forward to hearing from you!<br />

2 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

Experience<br />

Azerbaijan’s<br />

summer<br />

vibe 44


A RACE TO REMEMBER<br />

THE AZERBAIJAN<br />

GRAND<br />

PRIX<br />

SINCE DEBUTING IN 2016, THE AZERBAIJAN<br />

GRAND PRIX HAS PROVED ITSELF TO BE<br />

ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING RACES ON<br />

THE ENTIRE FORMULA 1 CALENDAR. HAVING<br />

BEEN CANCELLED LAST SUMMER DUE TO THE<br />

CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC, THE LANDMARK<br />

FIFTH RACE THROUGH THE STREETS OF BAKU<br />

TOOK PLACE ON 4-6 JUNE. HERE IS WHAT<br />

HAPPENED – PLUS WHY THIS IS AN EVENT YOU<br />

SHOULD ALWAYS TUNE IN FOR.<br />

4<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 5


The 20<strong>21</strong> race<br />

Normally, the Azerbaijan GP is a wonderful<br />

opportunity to experience an amazing<br />

weekend of motorsport while exploring<br />

Baku, its sights, atmosphere and nightlife,<br />

as well as enjoying a host of F1-related<br />

entertainment, including concerts with<br />

global stars. But sadly, due to the coronavirus<br />

pandemic, there was no special<br />

entertainment this year and the race went<br />

down without spectators. That said, it was<br />

nonetheless a fantastic show, producing<br />

myriad talking points and surprises. In<br />

the end, the race was won by Sergio Perez<br />

of Red Bull, who capitalised on mistakes<br />

by favourites Lewis Hamilton and Max<br />

Verstappen, involved in one of several<br />

dramatic crashes.<br />

Always drama<br />

Crashes and other attention-grabbing incidents are nothing<br />

new for Baku. The inaugural F1 race in Azerbaijan<br />

in 2016 (then called the 2016 European Grand Prix) may<br />

have been surprisingly uneventful – beyond Mercedes<br />

driver Valtteri Bottas clocking what was then the top<br />

speed for an F1 car (378km/h!) – but the next two races,<br />

in 2017 and 2018, were jam-packed with incidents, including<br />

crashes, quarrels and unexpected winners. Both races<br />

were voted “race of the season” by F1 fans! It is worth<br />

noting that every Formula 1 race in Baku so far has produced<br />

a different winner.<br />

6 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 7


Lined by<br />

landmarks<br />

The circuit was designed by German<br />

engineer Hermann Tilke, the leading<br />

track designer in F1, in order to really<br />

show off Azerbaijan’s dynamically<br />

developing capital. As a result, this<br />

is not just a race but an exhibition of<br />

Baku. The circuit is right in the city<br />

centre, where it traces the ancient Old<br />

City walls and passes along elegant<br />

streets like Istyglaliyyat, lined by an<br />

eclectic mix of architecture erected in<br />

the early 20th century. The long finishing<br />

straight runs parallel to the Seaside<br />

Boulevard, a glorious tree-filled stretch<br />

along the Caspian, and takes in landmarks<br />

like the iconic Maiden Tower,<br />

a structure so mysterious that to this<br />

day versions abound as to its original<br />

purpose (fort or fire temple?) and<br />

Government House, a striking Sovietera<br />

building.<br />

An amazing<br />

track<br />

The unpredictability is down to the<br />

track, the Baku City Circuit, which at just<br />

over 6km is the second longest circuit<br />

in Formula 1. But more importantly, it’s<br />

the fastest street circuit in F1! Drivers<br />

push the pedal to 360km/h on an over<br />

2km straight along Neftchilar Avenue –<br />

also the longest straight in F1. Another<br />

key feature is the tight and technical<br />

turns around Baku’s Old City, including<br />

a notorious turn 8 that’s just 7m wide!<br />

Of the 20 turns, many of them are sharp.<br />

And while, unlike other F1 street circuits,<br />

there are opportunities aplenty<br />

for overtaking, the lack of run-off areas<br />

means there’s little room for error. So it’s<br />

not necessarily the speed of the car that<br />

counts but rather skill, discipline, teamwork<br />

– and fortune.<br />

8<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 9


Race winners<br />

2016 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes)<br />

2017 - Daniel Ricciardo (Red Bull)<br />

2018 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes)<br />

2019 - Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes)<br />

20<strong>21</strong> - Sergio Perez (Red Bull)<br />

To find out more, see:<br />

bakucitycircuit.com<br />

10<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 11


EURO 2020<br />

is coming<br />

to Baku<br />

Azerbaijan’s vibrant capital is staging three<br />

Group A games and one quarterfinal:<br />

Wales vs Switzerland on 12 June<br />

Turkey vs Wales on 16 June<br />

Switzerland vs Turkey on 16 June<br />

Quarterfinal on 3 July<br />

The matches are being played at Baku’s stunning<br />

Olympic Stadium, the largest stadium in<br />

the Caucasus with a capacity of 69,870. The<br />

futuristic structure, which illuminates spectacularly<br />

at night, opened in 2015 to host the<br />

first European Games and has since staged<br />

the UEFA U17 European Championship in 2016,<br />

the 4th Islamic Solidarity Games in 2017, and<br />

the 2019 Europa League final between Arsenal<br />

and Chelsea. It has also hosted Champions<br />

League games involving local team Qarabag<br />

FK and is the home of Azerbaijan’s national<br />

football team.<br />

For health and safety reasons, the stadium<br />

may only be 50% full for EURO 2020 matches,<br />

with only locals and travelling fans of the competing<br />

teams allowed to attend. Nevertheless,<br />

EURO 2020 still promises to be an absolute<br />

feast of football and a great chance to showcase<br />

the beauty of Baku!<br />

Azerbaijan’s football history<br />

Football is really popular in Azerbaijan and the country has an intriguing football history.<br />

Remember that “Russian linesman” who helped England win the 1966 World Cup? Well<br />

that was Tofik Bayramov, a legendary Azerbaijani referee and former player of Neftchi.<br />

That’s Azerbaijan's most historic club, named after Baku’s local oil workers, which regularly<br />

performed in the Soviet Top League. One of its stars was Anatoly Banishevsky, who dazzled<br />

aged 19 for the USSR at the 1966 World Cup and went on to become a legend of Azerbaijani<br />

football. Another was Alakbar Mammadov, famed for scoring 4 goals against AC Milan at the<br />

San Siro in 1955. In more recent times, Qarabag FK made history in 2017-18 by becoming the<br />

first Azerbaijani team to reach the group stages of the Champions League.<br />

Postponed from last summer due to the<br />

coronavirus pandemic, the 2020 UEFA<br />

European football Championship finally<br />

kicks off at the Stadio Olimpico in Rome<br />

with Turkey versus Italy on 11 June. The<br />

tournament ends exactly a month later<br />

and in between, to mark the competition’s<br />

60th anniversary, matches are being held<br />

across 11 host cities: Rome, St Petersburg,<br />

Seville, London, Munich, Budapest,<br />

Bucharest, Copenhagen, Amsterdam,<br />

Glasgow – and of course, Baku.<br />

To find out more about<br />

EURO 2020 in Baku, see<br />

euro2020.affa.az<br />

12<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 13


Top<br />

seaside<br />

retreats<br />

near<br />

Baku<br />

In the village of Nardaran, only a 30-minute drive from<br />

central Baku, is an exclusive self-contained seaside resort<br />

called Sea Breeze (seabreeze.az), comprising several<br />

architecturally striking hotels plus minimalist villas<br />

and luxurious apartments along with bars, restaurants,<br />

pools, private beach, tennis courts, football pitch, kids’<br />

club, fitness halls and even an anti-ageing centre. This<br />

is the ultimate high-end summer escape where you can<br />

rest up, rejuvenate and soak up the amazing vibe of<br />

the Caspian. Sea Breeze also hosts a popular four-day<br />

summer music festival called Zhara.<br />

When summer hots up in Azerbaijan, people<br />

naturally migrate towards the coastline. One<br />

of the best spots is the Absheron Peninsula,<br />

which juts out into the Caspian Sea north of<br />

Baku and attracts the crowds in summer with<br />

its hotels, spas, sanatoriums and beaches.<br />

Here are five of the best places to visit:<br />

Another seaside retreat in Bilgah is Amburan Beach<br />

Club (amburan.com), where an indulgent outdoor pool<br />

invites you to chill out in cosy deck chairs and sun<br />

loungers, or you may prefer to laze on the beautifully<br />

clean sliver of private gold-sand beach. You can also<br />

get involved in activities like beach football, volleyball<br />

and mini golf to get involved in, and keep yourself<br />

fuelled up with everything from coffee and ice cream to<br />

pizza and pilafs served at three different eateries. With<br />

an entrance fee of just 30 AZN per person on weekdays<br />

and 35 AZN on Saturdays and Sundays and free<br />

for children up to 12, this is an extremely good-value<br />

option for a fun day with the family.<br />

14<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 15


About a 50-minute drive<br />

north of Baku, situated<br />

on a thin peninsula of<br />

the coast near the settlement<br />

of Shorabad, is<br />

Azerbaijan’s first and only<br />

kitesurfing centre and<br />

hotel (kitesurfing.az) set<br />

around an 8km 2 lagoon<br />

with ideal wind conditions.<br />

The season lasts from May<br />

to October, during which<br />

you can come and learn<br />

to kitesurf, perfect your<br />

skills, or simply chill out<br />

at the beach club. That<br />

includes a private pool,<br />

sun terrace and restaurant<br />

and is undoubtedly one<br />

of the most relaxing spots<br />

on Azerbaijan’s Caspian<br />

coastline.<br />

At Dalga Beach Aquapark<br />

(dalgaaquapark.az) in<br />

Mardakan there’s also a<br />

lovely patch of private<br />

beach, where you can either<br />

kick back on loungers or<br />

get active on kayaks, water<br />

skis or jet skis. What many<br />

people really love about this<br />

place is the fun aqua park,<br />

equipped with an entertaining<br />

assortment of pools and<br />

slides accompanied by the<br />

beats of an in-house DJ. In<br />

between all the relaxation<br />

and fun, you can grab a bite<br />

to eat at restaurants dishing<br />

up Azerbaijani and Italian<br />

cuisine, burgers and kebabs.<br />

Meanwhile, the kids can run<br />

wild in the onsite kids’ club,<br />

and if you’d like to stay over<br />

there are four-bedroom villas<br />

with jacuzzis, sea views and<br />

billiards.<br />

In the coastal village of Bilgah a<br />

futuristic structure looms above the<br />

coastline. This is Bilgah Beach Hotel<br />

(bilgahbeachhotel.com), occupying<br />

one of the best spots on the peninsula,<br />

blessed with turquoise sea<br />

and breezy air. The 300m private<br />

beach is a great spot to swim and<br />

sip cocktails, while you can zone out<br />

completely at the calming indoor<br />

and outdoor pools. More soothing<br />

experiences await in the sumptuous<br />

spa with Turkish and Finnish saunas.<br />

For more action, head to the aqua<br />

park at Cali Beach Club. There’s<br />

a range of cosy rooms, suites and<br />

villas plus bars, lounges and restaurants<br />

and even a nightclub.<br />

If you’re looking for a more local experience,<br />

then spend an afternoon<br />

on one of the vast sandy beaches<br />

lining the Absheron Peninsula –<br />

which draw Baku and Absheron<br />

locals to while away hot weekends,<br />

cooled by a refreshing breeze and<br />

dips in the sea. Here you can rent<br />

an umbrella, hut or gazebo, order<br />

tea and watermelon, and tuck<br />

into fresh fish at simple beachside<br />

restaurants. Be sure to stay for<br />

sunset to see a glorious lilac haze<br />

hovering over the Caspian. The best<br />

beaches to visit are in the coastal<br />

villages of Mardakan, Buzovna,<br />

Bilgah and Novkhani, reachable<br />

in just over an hour by bus from<br />

Koroghlu metro station. But hop in<br />

a taxi to get there much quicker<br />

(approx 30 minutes).<br />

16<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 17


GO<br />

kitesurfing<br />

in Shorabad<br />

About a 50-minute drive north of Baku, situated on a thin<br />

peninsula of the coast near the settlement of Shorabad,<br />

is Azerbaijan’s first and only kitesurfing centre and hotel<br />

(kitesurfing.az) set around an 8km 2 flat-water lagoon with<br />

perfect wind conditions. The season lasts from May to<br />

October, during which time you can come and learn to<br />

kitesurf, perfect your skills, or simply chill out at the beach<br />

club – one of the most relaxing spots on Azerbaijan’s<br />

Caspian coastline.<br />

Learn to kitesurf<br />

The Shorabad lagoon is the ideal place<br />

to come and learn to kitesurf as there’s<br />

an 80% probability of wind, the warm<br />

water is just 1.5m deep – shallow for<br />

beginners but deep enough to cushion<br />

the impact of falling when attempting<br />

tricks – and the sandy stoneless bottom<br />

and pristine surrounding beach means<br />

no boots are needed. Whether you’re a<br />

total beginner or an advanced rider, the<br />

kitesurfing school offers a range of effective<br />

courses led by friendly and experienced<br />

instructors.<br />

For beginners, prices range from 370<br />

AZN for a basic 3-hour group course to<br />

1,250 AZN for 15 hours of private tuition.<br />

One-off private lessons will set you back<br />

120 AZN for 1 hour and 200 AZN for 2<br />

hours. Once you’ve mastered the fundamentals<br />

and fortified your confidence,<br />

you can then venture out onto the open<br />

Caspian – provided the water isn’t too<br />

choppy.<br />

If you haven’t got any equipment<br />

don’t worry! Everything is available to<br />

rent, from kite and board to helmet,<br />

wetsuit and harness. Renting the whole<br />

lot for a day costs 180 AZN. You can<br />

also purchase equipment at the onsite<br />

shop, which also provides basic repairs if<br />

required.<br />

18<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 19


Come and relax<br />

Besides the kitesurfing this is one<br />

of the best and most secluded<br />

spots to enjoy the Caspian<br />

coastline. A day pass costing 25<br />

AZN allows you to simply spend<br />

the day here, enjoying the pool<br />

and sun terrace with superb<br />

views of the lagoon backed<br />

by the Caucasus Mountains<br />

on the horizon, not to mention<br />

the sublime sunsets! The<br />

staff are incredibly warm and<br />

friendly and there’s a restaurant<br />

and poolside bar serving<br />

hearty meals like burgers<br />

and pizzas along with<br />

homemade lemonades, ice<br />

teas, desserts and ice-cold<br />

beers.<br />

Stay a while<br />

The kitesurfing centre in<br />

Shorabad makes for a great<br />

day trip from Baku but why<br />

not make the most of this<br />

relaxing escape from the<br />

rush and noise of the city<br />

and stay the night, or even<br />

a few? The hotel is just 80m<br />

from the kite station (meaning<br />

you can almost roll out<br />

of bed in the morning and<br />

onto the board!) and offers<br />

single, double and family<br />

rooms for 130, 170 and 230<br />

AZN respectively. All rooms<br />

are fully equipped with WiFi,<br />

air conditioners, TVs, ensuite<br />

bathrooms, super comfy<br />

beds and amazing views.<br />

Quick contacts:<br />

info@kitesurfing.az<br />

+994502770730<br />

20<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | <strong>21</strong>


Trek<br />

the trails<br />

of northern<br />

Azerbaijan<br />

The Greater<br />

Caucasus Mountains<br />

tower all the way<br />

across northern<br />

Azerbaijan, creating<br />

dramatic scenery at<br />

every turn. A great<br />

way to get up there<br />

and explore them is<br />

by hiking, which has<br />

never been easier<br />

thanks to a number of<br />

newly marked trails.<br />

One of the top hiking<br />

areas in Azerbaijan<br />

is the Guba and<br />

Gusar regions, where<br />

you can enjoy the<br />

following:<br />

22 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 23


Khinalig –<br />

Galakhudat<br />

This 8.2km route connects the<br />

mountain villages of Khinalig and<br />

Galakhudat in the Guba region and<br />

takes you through soul-stirring scenery<br />

of the steep cliffs of Gizilgaya and<br />

the valley of the river Gudialchay.<br />

Khinalig, the starting point, is one of<br />

the highest villages in Azerbaijan and<br />

populated by an ancient ethnic group<br />

with their own unique language. This<br />

is an easy walk and ideal for beginners,<br />

though the magnificent views<br />

make it worthwhile for anyone.<br />

Griz – Grizdehne<br />

From the dramatically set mountaintop village of Griz,<br />

located at <strong>21</strong>00m, an 8.5km downhill trail leads to the<br />

village of Grizdehne at the foot of the mountains. The<br />

route includes some pretty steep sections so for those<br />

with vertigo, this is not ideal! But for anyone else the<br />

scenery is wondrous, with amazing views of jagged<br />

cliffs in the Gudialchay canyon, where an Egyptian vulture<br />

or long-legged buzzard may well be hovering. En<br />

route you’ll encounter a waterfall and venture through<br />

pristine forest near the bottom.<br />

Laza – Kuzun<br />

One of the top trails in the Gusar region, this 6.5km<br />

walk connects the villages of Laza and Kuzun through<br />

a landscape of steep cliffs, waterfalls and sparse forests<br />

– the superb scenery of the Gusarchay valley. Laza,<br />

where it begins, is inhabited by ethnic Lezgis, who are<br />

thought to be descendants of a tribe that populated the<br />

ancient kingdom of Caucasian Albania. As you go, you’ll<br />

have incredible views of two locally famous peaks: Mt<br />

Shahdag and Mt Gizilgaya. Most of the trail is downhill,<br />

and you might even see the occasional golden eagle.<br />

Galakhudat –<br />

Griz<br />

This route extending 9.3km and<br />

taking just over 4 hours meanders<br />

through a magnificent landscape of<br />

valleys and canyons. Beginning in the<br />

rustic village of Galakhudat, it ends in<br />

sublimely set Griz village, inhabited<br />

by a separate ethnic group with their<br />

own language. If you attempt it in<br />

summer you can cool off at the lovely<br />

Gurgur waterfall, which in winter<br />

freezes over and makes for stunning<br />

photos! Sometimes you can see griffon<br />

vultures circling overhead.<br />

24 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 25


Laza – Shahdag<br />

Mountain Resort<br />

A short and scenic 4.5km trail taking under<br />

2 hours, this one links Laza village with<br />

the Shahdag Mountain Resort, the first of<br />

Azerbaijan’s three new ski resorts. Starting<br />

in Laza, which is stunningly set in a valley<br />

flanked by emerald-green slopes, it goes<br />

via the foothills of Mt Gizilgaya and finishes<br />

at the highest cable car station of the<br />

Shahdag resort. From there you can ride<br />

down to the resort for a pleasant post-hike<br />

cappuccino, or extend the route by trekking<br />

to the nearby villages of Zindanmurug,<br />

Anig, Susay and Griz.<br />

How to<br />

book a<br />

trip<br />

You can walk these trails independently<br />

by following the<br />

signs. Or you can go with other<br />

like-minded hikers on trips and<br />

tours organised by companies<br />

including these:<br />

Mountaineering.az<br />

Camping Azerbaijan<br />

Mountain Host Azerbaijan<br />

Nukha Outdoor Club<br />

Campsiz<br />

Nature Discover Azerbaijan<br />

Azerbaijan Alpine Club<br />

Vertical Travel Azerbaijan<br />

Shahdag Mountain Resort<br />

Backcountry Azerbaijan<br />

Kuzun –<br />

Yergi Kek<br />

Some do not have websites but<br />

you’ll find them on Facebook.<br />

This trail connects the village<br />

of Kuzun with one of<br />

Azerbaijan’s highest villages,<br />

Yergi Kek at 2,380m. Both<br />

Kuzun and Yergi Kek are populated<br />

by ethnic Lezgi people.<br />

The 8km hike takes you<br />

through magnificent scenery<br />

of expansive subalpine<br />

meadows backed by the steep<br />

cliffs of Mt Shahdag. And it’s<br />

a particularly good one for<br />

bird lovers, as you may be<br />

able to see rare birds of the<br />

Caucasus Mountains such<br />

as the Caucasian grouse and<br />

mountain chiffchaff hiding in<br />

26 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

the rocks and shrubbery.<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 27


Highlights<br />

of historic<br />

Sheki<br />

The historic centre of Sheki is a<br />

national architectural reserve and<br />

a UNESCO World Heritage site.<br />

Occupying the northern part of<br />

the city lying across the southern<br />

slopes of the Caucasus Mountains,<br />

the area exudes a special Silk Road<br />

atmosphere with its cobblestone<br />

streets, distinctive houses, caravanserais<br />

and countless artisans<br />

making centuries-old local crafts.<br />

28 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 29


Sheki Fortress<br />

The core of the old town is the Sheki Fortress<br />

built as a stronghold of the Sheki Khanate, a<br />

local statelet founded in 1743. Have a wander<br />

inside the crenellated walls, to explore a number<br />

of local attractions including the Sheki Khan’s<br />

Palace – without doubt one of Azerbaijan’s most<br />

magnificent buildings.<br />

Museum of People’s<br />

Applied Arts<br />

Browse some 600<br />

artefacts and photos<br />

reflecting life in Sheki<br />

in previous centuries all<br />

within a distinctively<br />

shaped historic church.<br />

Sheki Khan’s Palace<br />

This lavish mansion fronted by 500-year-old plane<br />

trees dates from the 1760s and was the summer residence<br />

of the ruling Sheki Khans before the Khanate<br />

was subjugated by the Russian Empire. Admire<br />

the facade with its gorgeous geometric tiles before<br />

heading inside to find exquisite frescoes and magical<br />

stained-glass windows made using a local craft<br />

called shebeke, that creates a dazzling light show.<br />

Museum of History, Ethnography<br />

and Local Lore<br />

A museum containing over 5,000 exhibits covering<br />

everything from local flora and fauna to<br />

archaeological finds and domestic devices used<br />

by Sheki residents in former times.<br />

ABAD ceramic art centre<br />

Inside this lovingly restored 19th-century red-brick<br />

building local craftsmen make a range of ceramic<br />

objects and souvenirs. You can observe them, take a<br />

masterclass or buy souvenirs here.<br />

House of Craftsmen<br />

A former military barracks from<br />

the Tsarist era hosting rooms<br />

and stalls selling a variety of<br />

local crafts for which Sheki is<br />

famous, such as shebeke –<br />

wooden lattices filled with<br />

stained glass, tekelduz – a<br />

traditional type of embroidery,<br />

kelaghayi – a traditional silk<br />

headscarf for women, national<br />

musical instruments like the<br />

tar, and others.<br />

Upper Caravanserai<br />

In old Sheki there were several<br />

caravanserais where travelling<br />

merchants stayed and traded.<br />

Of the two that remain, one is<br />

open to visitors. This is the Upper<br />

Caravanserai, which is now a fantastic<br />

hotel and restaurant. Here,<br />

you can enjoy a wonderfully<br />

authentic stay, try local cuisine,<br />

or just pop in for a Silk Road-style<br />

tea experience.<br />

30 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 31


Shekikhanovs’ House<br />

Half-hidden in the mazy streets<br />

behind the caravanserai, the<br />

Shekikhanovs’ House is the<br />

former winter residence of the<br />

Sheki Khan’s family. It’s less<br />

lavish than the palace in the<br />

fortress but still a gem of local<br />

architecture displaying stunning<br />

stained-glass windows,<br />

opulent wall paintings and<br />

decorative Sheki-style bukhara<br />

fireplaces. Akhundzade Avenue<br />

Wandering down Sheki’s<br />

historic trading street along<br />

the Gurjanachay river, you<br />

can admire lovely old Sheki<br />

buildings, call into cafes to<br />

refuel with tea or coffee and<br />

browse shops selling local<br />

handicrafts and sweets. Be<br />

sure to try Sheki halva, a<br />

super sweet local variety<br />

of pakhlava – and to<br />

take in the awesome<br />

views of the beautiful<br />

Caucasus Mountains!<br />

32 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 33


Travel back<br />

to the<br />

Oil Boom<br />

When Baku’s oil industry boomed in the late<br />

19th century, it triggered the construction of<br />

a stunning collection of architecture, blending<br />

local and European styles, that completely<br />

changed the face of central Baku. Taking a<br />

walking tour of these delightful buildings is a<br />

fantastic way to uncover the history of Baku<br />

through dazzling architectural details and<br />

moving human stories.<br />

1. The Hajinski House<br />

34 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 35


2. The Palace of Happiness 3. The Institute of Manuscripts<br />

5 amazing buildings<br />

The Palace of Happiness (1910), aka<br />

the Mukhtarov Palace, is a luxurious<br />

French Gothic mansion that belonged<br />

to another highly influential oil baron,<br />

Murtuza Mukhtarov, who had it built for<br />

his beloved wife of Ossetian descent,<br />

Liza Turganova. According to legend,<br />

it’s a replica of a building Liza had greatly<br />

admired during one of the couple’s<br />

trips to Europe. Muktarov tasked Jozef<br />

Ploszko with the design and surprised<br />

Liza with her new home upon its completion.<br />

But the story has a tragic end:<br />

following the Soviet takeover in 1920,<br />

Red Army soldiers burst into the foyer to<br />

confiscate the property and Mukhtarov<br />

apparently shot them before turning the<br />

gun on himself.<br />

The Institute of Manuscripts (1901)<br />

was built to house a pioneering school<br />

for Muslim girls by the highly revered<br />

Baku tycoon Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev.<br />

Given the general belief of the day<br />

among local Muslims that girls didn’t<br />

need an education, Taghiyev had to<br />

overcome immense resistance to realise<br />

the project but succeeded thanks to<br />

special permission from the Tsar and<br />

leading Muslim clerics. Girls from both<br />

rich and poor backgrounds received<br />

a well-rounded education here until<br />

the Russian Revolution, after which<br />

the building hosted the parliament of<br />

the first Azerbaijani republic. It was<br />

designed by another outstanding Polish<br />

architect, Jozef Goslawski, and now<br />

houses the Institute of Manuscripts.<br />

The Baku City Hall (1904) building was<br />

also designed by Goslawski, for whom<br />

this Oil Boom masterpiece became his<br />

final project as he passed away during<br />

it from tuberculosis, aged just 39. The<br />

stateliness of the building, constructed<br />

in the Baroque style, reflects the great<br />

importance of the role of the Baku<br />

municipality at that time. Red bricks<br />

were imported all the way from Italy to<br />

decorate the exterior, which also displays<br />

the Baku coat of arms featuring 3<br />

tongues of flame. A melody plays every<br />

hour from the impressive clock tower<br />

erected over the pavement. The Baku<br />

Executive Power offices are currently<br />

accommodated here.<br />

36 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 37<br />

4. Baku City Hall


The Opera and Drama Theatre (1911)<br />

was built by local magnates the Mailov<br />

brothers and designed in Gothic with<br />

hints of Modern by the architect Nikolay<br />

Bayev, who completed the project in just<br />

10 months! The story goes that it was<br />

built in response to a glamorous soprano<br />

who while visiting Baku complained that<br />

such a wealthy city lacked its own opera<br />

house. The Mailov brothers quickly set<br />

about rectifying this and were given extra<br />

motivation by the tycoon Taghiyev, who<br />

offered to cover the costs if the Mailovs<br />

could complete it within 12 months – which<br />

they achieved by employing several shifts<br />

of workers to toil day and night.<br />

Ismailiyya Palace (1913) was built by the<br />

vastly wealthy oil baron Musa Naghiyev in<br />

memory of his son Aga Ismayil, who died<br />

young of tuberculosis. Naghiyev commissioned<br />

the design to Polish architect Jozef<br />

Ploszko, who modelled the Gothic edifice<br />

on Venice’s Palazzo Ducale. It originally<br />

hosted the Muslim Charity Society until being<br />

destroyed during a period of civil unrest<br />

in 1918. It was restored in the early Soviet<br />

period and currently houses the presidium<br />

of the Azerbaijani Academy of Sciences.<br />

These are just some<br />

of the amazing stories<br />

waiting to be told!<br />

6. The Ismailiyya Palace<br />

Book a tour<br />

The following companies offer guided walking tours<br />

of Baku’s Oil Boom architecture:<br />

ENC Tours<br />

www.enctours.az;<br />

+994 55 203 97 20<br />

Pasha Travel<br />

www.pashatravel.az;<br />

+994 50 250 73 89<br />

Explore Azerbaijan<br />

www.exploreazerbaijan.com;<br />

+994 50 295 11 53<br />

Discover Azerbaijan<br />

www.discoverazerbaijan.az;<br />

+994 50 515 45 05<br />

Myway Travel<br />

www.myway.az;<br />

+994 55 257 98 88<br />

38 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 39<br />

5. The Opera and Drama Theatre


1<br />

SHERBET<br />

Beat<br />

the heat<br />

with these<br />

drinks<br />

One of the best-loved drinks<br />

in Azerbaijan, sherbet is a<br />

mix of sugar and fruits or<br />

herbs that has many possible<br />

flavour combinations.<br />

Among the most popular are<br />

lemon, pomegranate, basil,<br />

mint, rose petals, saffron<br />

and even milk sherbets. The<br />

drink is easy to prepare:<br />

fruits or herbs are boiled<br />

in water sweetened with<br />

sugar, then the concoction<br />

is cooled before adding<br />

ice and serving. Sherbets<br />

are popular at weddings<br />

and other celebrations,<br />

served alongside pilaf,<br />

dolma and other traditional<br />

Azerbaijani dishes. Some<br />

are even consumed for<br />

medicinal purposes.<br />

In the scorching heat of an<br />

Azerbaijani summer, it’s crucial to<br />

keep hydrated, and while water is<br />

of course the most important thirst<br />

quencher, Azerbaijan has many<br />

more refreshing drinks to help<br />

cool you down. Moreover, they’re<br />

packed with amazing flavours and<br />

really easy to prepare at home<br />

(except for the last):<br />

2<br />

AYRAN<br />

This simple and super refreshing<br />

beverage is essentially yoghurt<br />

mixed with water and a variety of<br />

aromatic herbs, and it’s found in the<br />

national cuisines of both Caucasian<br />

and Central Asian peoples. It goes<br />

especially well with kebabs and other<br />

hearty meat dishes, as it balances out<br />

the heaviness and aids digestion. It’s<br />

also enormously nutritious, so ideal<br />

if you’re planning on keeping active.<br />

A variation of ayran is altama, which<br />

contains added dill, mint or chopped<br />

cucumber.<br />

40<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 41


3<br />

COMPOTE<br />

A very common drink in many former<br />

Soviet countries, compote is made<br />

by boiling any number of dried fruits<br />

in water, occasionally adding sugar<br />

to the mixture, and leaving the fruit<br />

chunks in the resulting drink. This is<br />

the perfect alcohol-free accompaniment<br />

to an al fresco lunch or dinner<br />

in summer, and you’ll find it served<br />

everywhere in Azerbaijan, from fancy<br />

urban eateries to simple countryside<br />

restaurants. Some of the most popular<br />

flavours are cornelian cherry, feijoa,<br />

peach and quince – but any fruit that<br />

grows naturally can be converted into<br />

compote!<br />

5<br />

CHAY (T<strong>EA</strong>)<br />

Azerbaijanis have made tea-drinking<br />

an art. Not only do they serve it in a<br />

beautifully pear-shaped armudu glass<br />

but there’s also a name for the rich red<br />

colour it’s supposed to have: pürrəngi.<br />

Here, tea is consumed everywhere and<br />

in all seasons – even on hot days at<br />

the beach! And it’s not just a drink but<br />

a symbol of hospitality that is eagerly<br />

offered to guests. Tea also still plays<br />

a key role in certain cultural rituals,<br />

such as when a girl’s family signals<br />

their acceptance of a marriage proposal<br />

by serving the young man’s family<br />

tea with sugar rather than without it.<br />

At the Yashil Chay tea farm in Lankaran you can collect tea, try<br />

dozens of different tea varieties as well as local food, take a tour, have<br />

a photo session and more. Address: Istisu village, Lankaran.<br />

Coordinates: 38.79550629571087; 48.734468452053314<br />

4<br />

POMEGRANATE<br />

JUICE<br />

In Azerbaijan, people are passionate about<br />

pomegranates, which are grown throughout the<br />

country. There’s even a unique Pomegranate<br />

Festival each autumn in the city of Goychay<br />

– which is so unique it was recently added to<br />

UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible<br />

Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In cultural<br />

terms, the pomegranate is seen as a symbol<br />

of abundance, while in the local cuisine it’s consumed<br />

in countless forms, from sauce to wine.<br />

In summer, pomegranate juice is a super health<br />

thirst quencher sold widely by street vendors.<br />

6<br />

LOCAL BEER<br />

If you’re looking for an ice-cold beer on a<br />

summer’s evening by the Caspian Sea, then<br />

Khirdalan (Xirdalan in Azerbaijani) is the<br />

ideal option. This most popular of local lagers<br />

is brewed in the Baku suburb of Khirdalan and<br />

has a golden colour, light body and sweetish<br />

aftertaste.<br />

Şərəfə!<br />

Cheers!<br />

42<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 43


Experience<br />

Azerbaijan’s<br />

summer<br />

vibe<br />

THE FOOD<br />

Watermelon and cheese is admittedly an<br />

unusual combination but one that’s really<br />

popular among Azerbaijanis on the Caspian<br />

coast in summer. All you need is seasonally<br />

fresh watermelon and white cheese which<br />

you slice into chunks. In Azerbaijan people<br />

like to consume it with freshly baked bread<br />

from a clay tandir oven, which is also readily<br />

available. The trio is cheap, simple and surprisingly<br />

delicious!<br />

One of the favourite summer activities in Azerbaijan is enjoying<br />

amazing moments on the golden sands of the Caspian seashore<br />

on warm sunny days. All you need is great company, local music<br />

and some light and cool food and drinks. Here are some simple<br />

ingredients to help you recreate the experience.<br />

THE DRINK<br />

Sherbet<br />

comes in many flavours, but<br />

here’s a recipe to make the<br />

popular basil variety at home:<br />

1 litre of pure drinking water<br />

8-10 stalks of purple basil<br />

6-10 tablespoons of sugar<br />

Juice of ½-1 lemon<br />

Peel of ½ lemon<br />

3 clove buds<br />

½ stick of cinnamon<br />

Step 1: Bring the water to boil,<br />

add the cinnamon, clove and<br />

sugar and cook for 15 minutes.<br />

Then take off the heat and<br />

add lemon juice.<br />

Step 2: Add finely chopped<br />

lemon peel to the jug and<br />

pour in the piquant herbal<br />

brew. Mix and then leave for<br />

at least 2 hours but ideally<br />

8-12.<br />

Step 3: The sherbet will take<br />

on a lovely saturated colour<br />

and aroma. Once it’s ready,<br />

strain out the liquid and pour<br />

into glasses.<br />

44 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 45


THIS SUMMER<br />

REJUVENATE YOUR<br />

ENERGY AT SHAHDAG!<br />

Shahdag Mountain Resort is the first and the largest mountain tourism spot of Azerbaijan.<br />

THE MUSIC<br />

and winter. With its budget category to world class 5 star hotels, hiking, camping and<br />

dozens of other outdoor sport activities, exceptional gastronomic experience and<br />

award-winning OVDAN SPA that will refresh your soul, Shahdag Mountain Resort promises<br />

an unforgettable summer getaway full of memories.<br />

For picnics, people also take with them fresh fruits and<br />

vegetables, wine or beer, and a guitar to sing with friends.<br />

Scan this QR code to listen to some Azerbaijani jazz by<br />

Vagif Mustafazade, who is considered the father of jazz<br />

in Azerbaijan. His composition Soul in Love will take you<br />

to Azerbaijan!<br />

KP29, Gusar – Laza motoroad, Azerbaijan<br />

1110, +994 12 310 1110<br />

reservations@shahdag.az<br />

shahdag.resort<br />

46<br />

| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />

EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 47<br />

www.shahdag.az<br />

shahdagresort


ExperienceAZE<br />

experienceazerbaijan<br />

podcast.azerbaijan.travel<br />

azerbaijan.travel<br />

Scan the QR code to download the guide.<br />

circ.: 500

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!