Diamond World (DW) January- February 2021

FOunDER: Late Vidya Vinod Kala
Vol. 48 No.2 INDIA 300
Alok Kala
Editor and Publisher
Arpit Kala
Associate Publisher
Vijetha Rangabashyam
Senior Editor
Sugandha R
Features Editor
Gunjan Jain
Business & Marketing
Dhananjay Kokate
Graphic Designer
HOW TO APPEAL
TO THE STRONG,
INDEPENDENT FEMALE
SELF-PURCHASER?
On a Hike
Will rough prices
continue to increase?
Indian retailers not ready to keep labgrown
diamond jewellery; here’s why
+ Paris Haute Couture Jewels,
Melissa Kaye, Pantone Colour
of the Year & more
Cover, jewellery
courtesy : Melissa Kaye
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Vol. 48 # 2 • january-february 2021
Promoting Diamond Jewellery Among
Independent Female Shoppers
How Can The Diamond Trade
Speak Better To A Strong,
Independent Female Shopper?
Has the Indian diamond trade kept pace with the rest of the world in
capatalising on the self-purchasing trend, where women, who have
higher disposable incomes are willing to spend on diamond jewellery?
Focusing on style and design rather than diamond jewellery just being an
investment, will go a long way finds out Vijetha Rangabhashyam
Owner :
International Journal House
Publisher and Printer: Alok Kala
Printed at :
Thomson Press India Ltd. Faridabad
Published from :
Journal House,
A-95, Janta Colony,
Jaipur
32 | Cover Story

46
46 | Special Feature
Lab Grown DiamonD
JeweLLery
Are Indian Retailers
Ready To Stock Lab-
Grown Diamond
Jewellery?
72
58
58 | Special Feature
JeweLs From Paris Haute
Couture weeK 2021
Jewels for Keeps
72 | DeSign StuDio
meLissa Kaye Fine
JeweLLery
Of Hope & Happiness
52
40 | Special report
ForevermarK
sPrinG summer
trenD rePort 2021
Truly Inspired
64 | the rock talk
Hot trenDs
Pantone colour of the
year, rose motif & more
52 | Special Feature
wHat eFFeCt wiLL inCreasinG
PriCes oF rouGH DiamonDs
Have on tHe marKet?
Up, Above, Rough Prices So High!
40
64

editorial
Regaining
spaRkle
The year 2021 is passing at jet speed. We are at the close of
the first quarter already and are having offline G & J shows.
Exhibitions and trade shows have been the cornerstones of
success of this industry for years. It is at these shows that
the community finds bonding, camaraderie and exchanges ideas while
conducting massive amounts of trade. The industry is developing like
never-before, mining companies are making the most of the currently
bullish trends exhibited by the diamond retail segment and despite
hike in prices of rough diamonds the industry is prudent enough to
bear the difference while allowing ultimate consumers to buy at the
original rates without price hike.
Technology, top-of-the-line designs and newer trends have already
entered the diamond market, world over. This edition reveals the
nuances of trade, takes a look at what retailers have to say about LGDs
and shares the vision of some industry leaders – so as to light up the
path, which was earlier dimmed by the pandemic. March is the month
for women – we spoke to industry experts to understand how we can
better promote diamond jewellery to strong, independent, working
women.
Happy days are here again, buy more, sell more and make good
profits – seem to be the buzzwords in industry, as it regains strength.
Editor
Alok Kala
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 15

Round & About
Rough & Mining
Dominion closes Ekati
sale to Arctic
Canada-based miner
Dominion Diamond Mines
ULC has completed the
previously announced sale of
the Ekati diamond mine and
associated assets to Arctic
Canadian Diamond Company
Ltd., a company formed and owned
by funds and accounts managed
by DDJ Capital Management,
Brigade Capital Management, LP
and Western Asset Management
Company, LLC.
Arctic, (formerly Dominion
Diamond Mines), has acquired
all of Dominion’s assets,
excluding its interest in the
Diavik diamond mine. “This
transaction significantly reduces
our debt obligations, and provides
sufficient liquidity to fund our
operations, invest in future growth
and allow the Company to emerge
with a materially stronger balance
sheet,” said Kristal Kaye, Chief
Financial Officer.
ALRoSA to name a 100-carat
diamond after “Sputnik V” vaccine
“Sputnik V” was the
world’s first registered
vaccine based on
the well-studied human
adenoviral vector-based
platform. A light yellow
diamond was mined from
Yakutia’s alluvial deposits.
“Rough diamonds of
this size and color are true natural wonders. Therefore, we
decided to name this outstanding crystal after the first Russian
coronavirus vaccine, which is also a miracle created by our
scientists,” said Sergey Ivanov, CEO of ALROSA.
The alluvial deposits in northwest Yakutia, where ALROSA's
subsidiary Almazy Anabara operates, are traditionally the
leaders in mining of natural coloured diamonds, including
those with exceptionally rare hues.
Lucara recovers 341ct white gem
diamond from Karowe Mine
Lucara Diamond Corp. had recovered n unbroken 341
carat top white gem quality diamond from its 100%
owned Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana. The 341 carat
diamond was recovered over the holiday period from milling of
ore sourced from the south western quadrant of the South Lobe
M/PK(S) unit. Eira Thomas, Lucara's CEO commented: "Lucara
is extremely pleased to be starting off 2021 with the recovery of a
341 carat high quality white gem diamond that builds on previous
historic recoveries which
include the 549 carat
Sethunya, 998 carat, 1758
carat Sewelô, the 1109
carat Lesedi La Rona and
the 342 carat Queen of the
Kalahari."
16 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Round & About
Rough & Mining
Rio Tinto expands its CoViD-19 testing
program at Diavik diamond mine
Lucapa sells Mothae
rough for $5.6
Million and finds
113ct diamond
Lucapa Diamond Company
Limited announced a
lockdown in Jan 2021 due
to a spurt in COVID-19 cases the
Lesotho Government had imposed a
14-day nation-wide lockdown. Just
before which Lucapa had its first
diamond sale in 2021 at $5.6 million
which came to $1,198 per carat, the
highest dollar per carat price ever
achieved by Mothae at sale. The
company noted that Mothae would
further benefit from margins earned
on cutting and polishing.
Lucapa Diamond Company also
announced the recovery of the
17th +100 carat white diamond by
Sociedade Mineria Do Lulo from its
Lulo alluvial mine in Angola. The
113 carat gem-quality white stone is
the 1st +100ct diamond recovered
from Mining Block 46, immediately
downstream of the Canguige river.
To further reduce the risk of COVID-19 to its workforce
and local communities, Rio Tinto is expanding its testing
program at the Diavik diamond mine by introducing
both point of pickup and mid-rotation COVID-19 testing for
workers.
Diavik piloted rapid
antigen testing in Edmonton
on February 11 for southern
workers boarding flights to the
mine, before rolling out the
measure in Halifax, Kitchener-
Waterloo, Winnipeg and
Vancouver on February 22.
Results are received within 15 minutes, allowing medical
professionals to identify and isolate presumptive
positive cases, including asymptomatic individuals, before
they travel to the mine.
De Beers group collaborates with
graduates from Central Saint Martins
in ReSet Forever Love
De Beers Group is pleased to launch ReSet Forever
Love, a celebration of love and sustainability in the
modern world, as interpreted by three emerging
jewellery designers who recently graduated from Central Saint
Martins in London, one of the world’s
leading design schools.
The one-of-a-kind jewellery collection,
which includes rings, necklaces and a
brooch, incorporates rough and polished
diamonds from De Beers Group, ranging
from 0.3 to 1.3 carats. Each diamond was
sourced in line with the company’s stringent Best Practice
Principles and Building Forever sustainability framework,
ensuring they helped create a lasting positive impact for
people and the planet.
18 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

POLISHED DIAMONDS
Round & About
GIA, Hari Krishna Exports, Everledger,
and Lucara bring digital provenance
Everledger has partnered with Hari Krishna Exports (HK),
Lucara Diamond Corp , and GIA (Gemological Institute of
America) to share the provenance and characteristics of a
special 30-carat diamond via its blockchain platform.
The 30 carat round diamond originates from the Karowe Mine
of Lucara Diamond in Botswana, and was cut and polished in
HK’s state-of-the-art manufacturing unit in Surat, India. HK
customers in Retail and Chain Stores will be able to register on the
Everledger Platform to view the stone and access Hari Krishna's
large inventory of quality stones and their associated provenance
stories.Diamonds with GIA Diamond Origin Reports such as the
Brilliant Lucara Diamond can be discovered quickly through a
special toggle in the Everledger Platform search and find menu.
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 19

Round & About
POLISHED DIAMONDS
Hari Krishna Exports hosts a blood
donation camp
Hari Krishna Group, a
leading name in the
Gems and Jewellery
industry, organized a blood
donation drive on 13th February
2021 at The Capital, BKC,
Mumbai. The donation camp
was held on the occasion of HK’s
8th anniversary at The Capital
building, BKC. The drive was
open for all. Organizing the
camp was intended to outstretch
the awareness about blood
donation and its importance in
saving human lives.
The event was graced by Dr.
Rajesh Dere, Dean in Incharge
of Jumbo CovidCenter, BKC, Mr.
Sachin Rane- Sr. PI, BKC, Mr,
23.58cts fancy yellow diamond ring fetches
$325,000 at Christie's
The top lot of the sale was
exceptional Fancy Yellow
Diamond Ring of 23.58
carats that realized $325,000.
Additional results included a
Round Diamond Ring of 4.18
carats that sold for $81,250 and
a ‘Snowflake’ Diamond Medallion
Necklace by Graff that achieved
$81,250.
Specially featured within the
sale was a section of Valentine’s
Satish Vyas – Gujarati Writer, and
other dignitaries from the diamond
industry.
Speaking about the occasion,
Mr.GhanshyamDholakia,
Day inspired
jewelry sold
just in time for
the holiday.
Highlights
included Heartshaped
Colored
Diamond Earrings
that achieved $52,500; Bombé
Ruby and Diamond Earrings
by Graff that sold for $50,000;
Pavé Diamond and Rose Gold
Founder, and Managing
Director, HK Exports Pvt. Ltd.,
said, “Blood donation is one
of the finest gestures one can
make to save people's lives. In
every two seconds, there may
be a patient waiting for a blood
transfusion to survive, making
it to over 38000 units of blood
demanded a day. Unfortunately,
many of such patients requiring
transfusion do not have timely
access to safe blood.
In 2020 total 11 million blood
donations are collected in India,
which is an increase of 1% in the
blood shortage or a need for blood
donation compared to 2019.
'Love' Bracelet by
Cartier that sold for
$25,000 against
its low estimate of
$6,000; Aluminum
Geranium Petal
Earrings by JAR
that sold for over
six times their estimate selling
for $13,750, among other festive
highlights.
20 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

AssociAtion &
trAde Bodies
Israel Diamond
Exchange elects
Boaz Moldawsky as
president
Moldawsky, 54, a secondgeneration
diamantaire,
whose family was among the
founders of the Israeli diamond industry,
is the joint CEO of the Moldawsky
Group. He has served as Vice President
of the Israel Diamond Exchange and
Chairman of the Israel Diamond
Institute. Moldawsky replaces Yoram
Dvash, who served as IDE President.
The elections also voted in 16 members
of the IDE Board of Directors.
Moldawsky said: "The members of
the IDE have chosen an experienced
and responsible management. It is an
honour and privilege for me to lead
the exchange in the coming years, and
especially during such a complex and
challenging period for the industry.
The IDE represents a key sector of the
Israeli economy and I am convinced that
we will bring it to renewed growth.”

Round & About
AssociAtion & trAde Bodies
eBay in india signs MoU with GJePc
the MoU will further spur
growth of ecommerce
export of Jewellery due
to unique designs that Indian
sellers bring in this category and
participation of organized players.
This is a significant step as India’s
gems & jewellery industry through
GJEPC is promoting ‘Make
in India’ products and Indian
craftsmanship globally.
This association will see the
setting up of an eCommerce
Promotion and Facilitation Desk
(‘EPFD’) at Mumbai, Delhi, Surat,
Ahmedabad, Jaipur, Bengaluru
and Chennai to educate and enable
GJEPC members of the export
ecommerce opportunity. To further
encourage wider participation
Vidmay Naini, Country Manager, eBay India
support initiatives and access to
third party services such as product
imaging and cataloging will be
made available to enable sellers
to get started on the platform. A
key aspect to build improved trust
and confidence among buyers
is the certification of high value
gemstones sold through eBay with
GJEPC-Gem Testing Laboratory.
This too is being offered to GJEPC
members at discounted rate as part
of eBay’s continued association
with GJEPC.
WJA announces Susan Chandler as the 2021 president-elect
Joining Chandler on
the 2021 International
Board of Directors is
Beth Gerstein who is CEO
of Brilliant Earth, the global
leader of responsibly sourced
fine jewelry; Dr. Raquel
Alonso-Perez, Curatrix of the
Mineralogical and Geological
Museum at Harvard University.
She is responsible for access
to, teaching, research, public
education, and continued
development of the worldclass
Earth Science collections; and
Matthew Tratner who currently
serves as Director, Global
Business Development at GIA.
“We believe that Susan’s
strong leadership experience
will not only contribute to the
future growth and vibrancy
of WJA, but will also inspire
greater community and
connection centered around
women working and leading
in the jewelry industry as
a whole,” says Jacqueline
Cassaway, WJA President.
22 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

AssoCiAtioN &
trADe BoDies
Natural Diamond
Council reports on
the desirability
of diamonds among
millennial and
Gen-Z consumers
Natural Diamond Council
conducted broad diamond
desirability research
through 360 Market Reach in the
final quarter of 2020 among 5,000
respondents between the ages of 18
– 39. The analysis shows diamond
jewellery leading as the most highly
desired, and tangible luxury good
overall (after being prompted with
nine luxury items to choose from
if money were not a concern).
Vacations were the only luxury items
ahead of diamond jewellery for both
generations. Respondents also largely
attribute their affinity for diamonds
to uniqueness as 70% agree natural
diamonds are “one of a kind.” Another
area of value for respondents was the
symbolism diamonds carry for love
and connection.

Round & About
AssOcIATIOn & TrAde BOdIes
India’s G&J exports from Apr ’20 to
Jan ’21 down 37% to $19.2 bln
Overall gross
imports of gems
and jewellery in
the same month grew 14%
year-on-year to $1822.89
million, reflecting the
uptick in manufacturing
activity and improving
retail demand.
During the April 2020
to January 2021 period,
India’s overall gross exports
of gems and jewellery
fell 37% to $19240.61 million
compared to the same period in
the previous year. Overall gross
imports of gems and jewellery for
the year-to-date period declined
41% to $11771.42 million
on a year-on-year basis.
Cut and polished
diamond gross exports
returned to positive
territory in January 2021,
rising 9% to $1804.83
million as compared
to $1649.14 million
in January 2020. In
January 2021 gross cut
and polished diamond
imports, too, rose 26% to
$202.56 million versus $160.29
million a year ago.
IGI and BDB unveil new course offerings
The International
Gemological Institute
(IGI) and the
Bharat Diamond Bourse
(BDB) recently partnered
to provide exclusively
created courses in
grading and jewelry
designing for members
of the bourse. With
the goal of enhancing
and updating technical
knowledge and skills,
the courses will help the local
region remain adept as the gem
and jewelry industries in India
face a futuristic transformation.
Among the courses offered,
the Polished Diamond Grading
Course is the most sought after
alongside the Accelerated
Jewelry Design Course,
specializing in CAD creations.
With equal preference
placed on theoretical and
practical learning, IGI
makes the coursework a
holistic process for the
participants. The Institute
is also conducting a five
day BDB–IGI Diamond
Workshop on the 4
Cs, grading processes,
identification and the
growth pattern of lab grown
diamonds exclusively for BDB
members.
24 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Lab & technoLogy
Round & About
In addition to overwriting the counterfeit inscription (left), GIA inscribes the
number (right, obscured in the image for confidentiality) of the new Laboratory-
Grown Diamond Report issued for the diamond and the phrase ‘Laboratory-
Grown.’ Copyright GIA.
gIa counters counterfeit inscriptions
Recently, GIA encountered a number of stones that were
submitted for updated reports or verification services that
did not match the GIA report submitted with them. The
newly-submitted stones were either laboratory-grown diamonds
or treated natural diamonds, falsely inscribed with GIA report
numbers.
Consistent with GIA’s mission to protect consumers and ensure
their trust in gems and jewelry, the Institute overwrites the
counterfeit inscription with Xs; issues a new, accurate report; and
inscribes the newly-submitted stone with the number of the new
report and, when appropriate, the phrase ‘Laboratory-Grown.’
The newly-submitted stones had the following commonalities:
(1) the weights and grading parameters of the original and newlysubmitted
diamonds were close to each other; and (2) the newlysubmitted
diamonds were inscribed with counterfeit inscriptions
of the original GIA report number.
In a recent example, the report that accompanied a diamond
submitted for an update was for a 1.50362 carat, VVS2, E, type I
natural diamond with an excellent cut grade. The newly-submitted
stone with a counterfeit inscription was a man-made diamond,
1.51212 carat, VVS2, D, type IIa with a very good cut grade. It is
clear that these are two different diamonds.
These instances of attempted fraud highlight why it is important,
especially in any transaction where the buyer does not have a
trusted relationship with the seller, to have the diamond grading
report updated prior to completing a purchase.
Depending on the circumstances of the submission of stones with
counterfeit inscriptions, GIA considers all of the options outlined
in GIA’s Client Agreement, including notifying the submitting
client, law enforcement and the public.
Loupe ID beneath the surface of a diamond,
visible using a standard 10 x loupe
Opsydia unveils
customisable Nano ID
and Loupe ID features
Leading diamond security
specialist, Opsydia, has
unveiled new classifications
for its sub-surface identifiers,
allowing diamond manufacturers,
brands and grading houses to
choose from a range of visibilities to
suit their specific requirements.
Utilising the laser technology
within the Opsydia System, users
can choose from Nano IDfeatures
or Loupe ID features to create a
permanent physical link between
a specific stone and its grading
report, blockchain record or
branded jewellery origins.The
Opsydia System uses a highprecision,
ultrafast laser to place
logos, alphanumeric sequences or
coded shapes (known as identifiers)
beneath the surface of a diamond.
Opsydia technology is deployable
across the globe and can be utilised
by natural diamond and laboratory
grown diamond specialists.
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 25

Round & About
RETAIL & E-COMMERCE
OGI Systems' Diatrue ranked highest for
testing synthetic diamonds above 2mm
STPL Gets prestigious
FGI Award for its
pioneering research in
AI and Robotics
STPL has received this award
in the category of Research in
Science & Technology. The
award was conferred to STPL in a
gala function, by the Chief Guest,
Shri Yogeshbhai Patel, Hon'ble
Minister of State - Narmada, Urban
Housing, Govt. of Gujarat. The
award ceremony was held on 19th
January 2021.
STPL has won this award
for its revolutionary research
and innovations in diamond
processing, especially in the field
of use of Artificial Intelligence (AI)
and Robotics. AI and Robotics
are changing the way the global
industries are operating. Especially
in the post-COVID phase, these
new technologies are proving
crucial to keep the momentum amid
strict regulations and adherence to
the social distancing norms.
The new innovative technology, DiaTrue, was presented to the
ASSURE testing program, where it was ranked highest for a
novice operator, testing for synthetic diamonds above 2mm.
OGI Diatrue products are suitable for all
kind of users, from wholesale to retail
jewellers. Diatrue provides accurate
scan analyses from small diamonds to the
large mounted jewellery.
The software includes a database
and many other helpful views. Each
view is in high resolution provides clear
and crisp imaging. This allows the user
easy detection and identification for
diamond stimulants. In the past 30 years
OGI systems has delivered the most advanced and innovative
technologies to the diamond industry. And yet again, it’s been
proven that OGI is head and shoulders above its competitors.
Sarine Technologies Group files legal actions in
India against technology infringers
Sarine Technologies Ltd has filed lawsuits in India seeking
injunctive reliefs and damages for patent and software
copyright infringement.
Sarine and Galatea, its wholly owned subsidiary which developed
the ground-breaking, patented GalaxyTM inclusion mapping
technology, are renowned in the diamond
industry for their innovations, which have
revolutionised the manufacturing of polished
diamonds. A broad portfolio of international
patents and copyrights, including in India,
protect the Group’s proprietary technology and its substantial
corresponding investment, which enables continued innovation
that benefits the entire diamond industry.
Recent challenges by some in India who brazenly misappropriate
Sarine’s technology and violate its intellectual property rights have
compelled Sarine to initiate lawsuits that take the battle against
technology infringers to unprecedented levels.
26 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Round & About
RETAIL & E-COMMERCE
Tiffany acquires exceptional
80-carat diamond to reimagine
its historic 1939 world’s fair
necklace
Hazoorilal Legacy launches
its latest jewellery campaign
for 2021 featuring their brand
ambassador Tara Sutaria
Commenting on the association, Mr.
Ramesh Narang, Director, Hazoorilal
Legacy said, “We’re delighted to
have Tara take our brand story forward.
Hazoorilal Legacy stands for classic and
timeless jewelry and Tara, with her immense
talent and remarkable ethics empowers and
embraces the brand’s legacy.”The campaign’s
overarching theme of hope and positivity
comes after what was a difficult last year,
globally. Touting 2021 as the year of recovery
and zeal, the campaign intends to evoke
the emotions of the audience and create
engagement via #TheNextChapter. Over the
next few months, Hazoorilal Legacy plans to
release signature bridal looks with couture,
high jewelry pieces, delicately weaving the
rich cultural heritage of Indian craftsmanship
with a contemporary outlook. The line of
statement jewelry from the Legacy Collection
in gold, polki and diamonds has been
extensively curated for the brides-to-be.
Tiffany & Co. has announced that it will reimagine
an archival Tiffany high jewelry necklace from
1939. The original aquamarine design has been
modernized with an extraordinary oval diamond of over
80 carats, the largest diamond ever offered by Tiffany
and eclipsed only by the Tiffany Diamond, which
famously is not for sale.
Tiffany has acquired many rare and remarkable
gemstones for its jewelry designs in its 183-year
history, including the legendary Tiffany Diamond, one
of the world’s largest and finest fancy yellow diamonds,
as well as the Hooker Emerald, now exhibited at the
Smithsonian and the Mazarin Diamonds, purchased by
Tiffany at the auction of the French Crown Jewels.
28 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Round & About
Etc
Govt. brings all export
goods under Duty & Tax
Refunding Scheme
taking a major step to boost
exports, the Government
of India has decided to
extend the benefit of the Scheme
for Remission of Duties and Taxes
on Exported Products (RoDTEP)
to all export goods with effect
from 1st January, 2021.
The RoDTEP scheme would
refund to exporters the embedded
Central, State and local duties/
taxes that were so far not being
rebated/refunded and were,
therefore, placing our exports
at a disadvantage, an official
statement read. The refund would
be credited in an exporter’s
ledger account with Customs and
used to pay Basic Customs duty
on imported goods. The credits
can also be transferred to other
importers, it noted.
Sachin Jain, MD, De Beers Inda, Film star, Srinidhi Shetty and Gurmukh Singh,
CEO, Neelkanth Jewelers
Neelkanth Jewellers
launches Forevermark at
HSR layout – Bengaluru
Known for exquisite hand-crafted designs for the
last three generations, Neelkanth offers all the
Forevermark collections including the Circle of
Trust, Traditional Setting, Tribute and the Forevermark Icon
Collection. The synergy of these two brands has made for
an ideal collaboration offering customers among the world’s
most beautiful, inscribed and carefully selected natural
diamonds set in intricately designed, unique and beautiful
jewelry pieces.
Film star Srinidhi Shetty attended the event wearing a
stunning three-line solitaire necklace, she selected her top
5 pieces from the Forevermark Collection and unveiled
Forevermark’s 100 Carat Program at the store that will run
from March 3rd -21st, 2021. This unique program allows
customers to witness over a 100 Forevermark diamonds
which are one-carat and above in size of varied shapes
including round and fancy in loose diamonds as well as
diamonds set in jewelry.
30 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Cover Story
32 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Cover Story
Promoting Diamond Jewellery Amidst
Independent Female Shoppers
HOW CAN THE
DIAMOND TRADE SPEAK
BETTER TO A STRONG,
INDePeNDeNt FeMALe
SHoPPer?
Has the Indian diamond trade kept pace with the rest of
the world in capatalising on the self-purchasing trend,
where women, who have higher disposable incomes
are willing to spend on diamond jewellery? Focusing
on style and design rather than diamond jewellery
just being an investment, will go a long way finds out
Vijetha Rangabashyam
Diamonds. The very word evokes so many
emotions. The unearthing of this miracle stone
that has been in formation for over a billion
years, being cut and polished by experts and then set
in jewellery, to lend joy and spark to many lives, is a
story worth telling. It’s not a wonder why women love
diamonds. Diamonds are special and women like to
feel special. This billion dollar industry survives for
women and thrives on the happiness they get when
they wear diamond jewellery. In India, diamond
jewellery is an integral part of festivities; it is also a
symbol of aspiration. But over the years, diamonds
have also become so niche that buying them has been
restricted to a select few occasions. Though women are
slowly coming forward to buy jewellery for themselves
to celebrate milestones and achievements, the trend
still is not as big as it is in the West.
“The Future is Female” trend seems to be the norm
in the rest of the world, where demand for diamond
jewellery is being slowly driven by the female self
purchaser. Being reliant on weddings, special occasions
and gifting alone has made diamond an extremely
niche product. Should the industry be working towards
democratizing diamond jewellery and foster impulse
buying, so that more women come forward to buy
diamond jewellery even if there is no occasion; if so,
how can the industry do this collectively?
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 33

Cover Story
True empowerment
means giving a woman
freedom to make
her own decisions,
recognizing her
contributions, and
valuing her inputs in
social decisions as well.
We have many talented
women designers
in India, they had
to work very hard to
establish themselves
in the industry, but
do they receive the
same recognition?
Acceptance and
empowerment has
to come from home,
workplace, business,
industry, society, et
al. The industry and
workplace should value
the woman’s decisions
and opinions – only
then will women
develop the confidence
to make decisions on
their own
Nirupa Bhatt,
Consultant, GIA India
Correcting the Indian
mindset
Though so many women occupy
C-Suite roles and are in a position to
make independent decisions when it
comes buying expensive products for
themselves, when it comes to buying
jewellery, diamonds in particular, it
becomes a collective decision, where
members of the family are involved.
“We have created a society – wherein
we tell women that only a man can
fulfill the needs of a woman. We do not
as a society empower women and say
that they can take care of themselves
– and they can do whatever they want.
We always hear people saying ‘We
have allowed our daughter to study
as much as she wants.’ Or ‘We have
allowed our daughter-in-law to work.’
Which means the permission has to be
given by someone else –individually
or collectively,” says Nirupa Bhatt,
Consultant, GIA India. So until and
unless, we as a society change the way we
think about what women can and can’t
do, the larger picture of enabling more
women to make independent choices
will not happen. “True empowerment
means giving a woman freedom to make
her own decisions, recognizing her
contributions, and valuing her inputs in
social decisions as well. We have many
talented women designers in India,
they had to work very hard to establish
themselves in the industry, but do
they receive the same recognition?
Acceptance and empowerment has to
come from home, workplace, business,
industry, society, et al. The industry and
workplace should value the woman’s
decisions and opinions – only then will
women develop the confidence to make
decisions on their own,” adds Nirupa
Bhatt.
The change has to happen from our
homes and place of work. Encourage
women, value them, empower them –
if this becomes a system then it will
become an integral part of the industry.
“We should work towards bringing
woman in the mainstream – this will
give them the confidence. It is a long
process, but it will happen. In the
jewellery industry, we have a lot of
women in the sales teams in many retail
outlets. Women are trained to become
good sales persons – it is because
every retail business owner recognizes
a woman’s empathy towards female
Robert Procop Platinum Square and
Baguette Diamond Hoop Earrings
34 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Forevermark
pendant, Half-
Carat collection
clients and knows they can reach out to
one another better,” adds Bhatt.
Price point dynamics
Buying is defined by price points,
however, once people cross the
threshold of a certain price point, then
they become conservative in their
spending. “Self purchase is there in
India to some extent and it is not just
based on occasion. Self purchase
happens say up to Rs 50,000. However,
when it is time to buy anything worth
say Rs 2, 00,000 or above, people will
plan their purchase and it becomes
a family affair where all members of
the family are present,” says Dheeraj
Menda of Studio Rêves.
The perception that people have
towards jewellery in India is also
different. “Before buying an iPhone you
don’t ask your partner whether you can
buy it even though it costs over a lakh.
That is because it is a standardized
product. You don’t go ask the store
owner about the cost of the chip inside
the iPhone or cost of the body of the
phone. You do not go in to find out
detailed pricing of each component
while buying such an expensive phone
– you may even buy a leather cover
worth Rs 15,000. Will you ask for a free
cover at the Apple Store? But when you
go to a jeweller, you will ask the store
owner what is the cost of the labour,
what is the cost of diamonds, do you
have a certificate with it, will you give a
fancy box with the jewellery? Jewellers
don’t bother fixing these issues, they
are happy with their fixed margins ,”
says Menda.
Today, when you walk into any
luxury store, asking for discount is
unacceptable. We inherently believe
that a Louis Vuitton must be bought
without a discount but we don’t think
of the same with jewellery. People
want the price of making charges to
be slashed. “The difference is with the
branding involved. Price points do not
make products luxury. It is also the
kind of efforts put behind the product.
For instance, any of these big chain
store brands will not pay more than
600 per gram as labour cost – how will
they then get a luxury product made at
a low labour cost that they are willing to
pay?” asks Menda.
Focus on style and not on
investment
Very rarely does a woman walk into
a store asking for a 2ct ring, even
though she earns handsomely. It has
to be still spurred on by the family.
“We need to ask ourselves why that is
the case. To speak to an independent
female shopper, we need to do justice
with the product we have at hand. We
need to create strong stories around
the product. We should be in a position
to compare our jewellery with luxury
bags or watches. As a jeweller, we are
still pushing diamond jewellery or any
jewellery for that matter as an occasion
based item. We push it as bridal or
Cover Story
Before buying an
iPhone you don’t ask
your partner whether
you can buy it even
though it costs around
a lakh. That is because
it is a standardized
product. You don’t go
ask the store owner
about the cost of the
chip inside the iPhone
or cost of the body of
the phone.But when
you go to a jeweller, you
will ask the store owner
what is the cost of the
labour, what is the cost
of diamonds etc. The
difference is with the
branding involved.
Price points do not
make products luxury.
It is also the kind of
efforts put behind the
product
Dheeraj Menda,
Studio Rêves
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 35

Cover Story
To speak to an
independent female
shopper, we need to do
justice with the product
we have at hand. We
need to create strong
stories around the
product. We should
be in a position to
compare our jewellery
with luxury bags or
watches. As a jeweller,
we are still pushing
diamond jewellery or
any jewellery for that
matter as an occasion
based item. We push it
as bridal or gifting item,
we need to push it as
a style-based item and
not an investment item.
Cars are pushed as a
necessity; today, if you
have to move ahead in
life, you require a car.
We have to do something
similar for our industry
– if a woman achieves a
milestone in life, maybe
she can graduate from
a 1ct solitaire to a 3ct
solitaire
Anand Prakash,
Abhushan Jewellers
gifting item, we need to push it as a
style-based item and not an investment
item. Cars are pushed as a necessity,
today, if you have to move ahead in
life, you require a car. We have to do
something similar for our industry – if
a woman achieves a milestone in life,
maybe she can graduate from a 1ct
solitaire to a 3ct solitaire ,” says Anand
Prakash of Abhushan Jewellers, Agra.
We also need to focus on the design
and karigari element more. People
should want to pay for craftsmanship.
“In India even today jewellery is sold
as an investment. In America it is not
so. The markup system for jewellery
is 1:3 in retail markets in the U.S.,
otherwise they cannot survive. Design
is the taste acquired by a particular
person. Jewellery is available from
Rs 5000 to Rs 5 crore. When you go
to a Manish Malhotra store, you will
buy Rs 25,00,000 worth lehenga where
the actual cost may have been barely
Rs 100,000,” adds Menda. It is the
perceived brand value that makes
people want to buy a Manish Malhotra
outfit. We need to work towards creating
stronger brands.
Rose Group has been catering to
women who are fashion forward and
who want jewellery that is stylish but
will yet stand the test of time so that
it can be enjoyed by the family for
generations to come. Every piece that
Rose creates whether it be a wedding
band or even a mangalsutra needs to be
created differently with a Rose twist so
as to appeal to our trendy clients who
aspire for bespoke pieces regardless of
the budget. “To sell luxury, you have
to live it and love it first. If you want
luxury customers to come to your store,
your experience needs to be better than
what they get in the comfort of their own
Medium Halo Diamond Hoop Earrings,
Astley Clark
36 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Cover Story
Forevermark Half Carat Diamond ‘The Better Half Within Me’ Campaign
palaces. If you want them to purchase
your product, you need to create
something that is differentiated and has
its own story in order for someone who
already has everything to desire one of
your creations,” adds Karan Vaidya of
Rose Group.
India: The land of a
promising self-purchase
trend
To say that women in India don’t
indulge in self-purchase of diamond
jewellery would be a fallacy. Over the
last few years, more number of women,
who have sizeable disposable incomes
have come forward to buy diamond
jewellery for themselves. “Over the
past few years, we have seen a change
in the purchasing power of women.
Today’s women don’t need a reason to
buy diamonds. They celebrate even the
small joys of life. Indian women aspire
to own an exquisite, priceless piece of
diamond jewellery that connects with
them at a deeper personal, emotional
level,” says Sachin Jain, Managing
Director, De Beers India. According to
Forevermark ring, Half-
Carat collection
a study by De Beers, the self-purchase
segment that has grown by 25 per
cent emerging as the fastest growing
segment for the diamond jewellery.
More number working women are
making self-purchases and we have
seen a constant 21-30 per cent increase
in this segment of buyers since 2013.
“The future is female and it’s a
reality. Natural Diamonds are elegant
and strong, just like the women who
wear them. More than the size of the
jewellery, women are buying jewellery
for themselves to celebrate their goals
and achievements. The diamond
industry has been promoting the
phenomenon of self-purchase for quite
some time now through storytelling
and branding and it’s just time for us
to accelerate. All the jewellers have
built trust with this audience and it’s
time for us to talk to them for more than
one occasion and it’s on us to remind
her what diamonds mean to her. Today
women are comfortable earning their
money and spending on them as well.
They lean towards buying things that
mean something to them and they
can cherish,” says Richa Singh, MD,
Natural Diamond Council, India.
The age of women who come forward
to buying diamond jewellery is also
gradually decreasing. “We do have
Else Peratti Diamond Hoop
Earrings, Tiffant and Co.
To sell luxury, you
have to live it and love
it first. If you want
luxury customers to
come to your store,
your experience needs
to be better than
what they get in the
comfort of their own
palaces. If you want
them to purchase your
product, you need to
create something that
is differentiated and
has its own story in
order for someone who
already has everything
to desire one of your
creations
Karan vaidya,
Rose Group
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 37

Cover Story
The future is female
and it’s a reality. Natural
Diamonds are elegant
and strong, just like
the women who wear
them. More than the
size of the jewellery,
women are buying
jewellery for themselves
to celebrate their goals
and achievements.
The diamond industry
has been promoting
the phenomenon
of self-purchase for
quite some time now
through storytelling and
branding and it’s just
time for us to accelerate.
All the jewellers have
built trust with this
audience and it’s time
for us to talk to them for
more than one occasion
and it’s on us to remind
her what diamonds
mean to her
richa Singh, MD,
Natural Diamond
Council, India
some women coming forward to buy
diamond jewellery. There has been
a drastic change – three years back,
women in the age group of 45+ would
come to buy jewellery. Now younger
women in the age group 35+ are coming
forward to buy jewellery, without any
occasion. The ticket size is around
Rs 4-6 lakhs,” adds Anand Prakash.
In the past 10 years, we have been
witnessing a major shift in the buying
pattern. “As women are becoming more
independent, they are easily coming
forward to buy diamond jewellery for
themselves. Diamonds have always
been portrayed as a symbol of love and
gifting. But now that perception is also
changing. For a woman who is working
9 to 5, she can go in for a pair of solitaire
studs rather than polki earrings and
even she realises this ,” says Nakshatra
Mehta of Rare Heritage.
Making everyday an
occasion
Till the time we push diamond jewellery
as an occasion based jewellery, we won’t
be pushing more women towards buying
diamonds independently. “We have to
celebrate every accomplishment. For
example, if my son passes with good
marks – I should go out and celebrate
– I have to create that occasion. Say if
you have completed five years at your
workplace—it is an accomplishment
and you need to celebrate it. Women
have a right to celebrate your success
with a jewellery purchase. We need to
promote the idea of celebrating their
small occasions with buying jewellery.
That piece of jewellery will remain
as a remembrance of that occasion.
Completion of a tough project too can
be celebrated by buying jewellery.
Women should be told that they should
feel satisfied and hence empowered
and they should celebrate every such
moment,” adds Bhatt.
While jewellery was earlier treated as
an asset and didn’t need an occasion,
times are changing and our industry
is moving towards becoming more
occasion centric. “This has affected
the business and people’s sentiment
has grown negative over the past
few years. Instead of looking at the
situation pessimistically, I believe it
is time for us as an industry to accept
the change in the consumer’s spending
patterns and adapt. If Hallmark could
understand the occasion centric nature
of their business and create occasions
like Valentine’s Day for people to buy
Forevermark earrings, Half-Carat collection
38 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Cover Story
cards more than a century ago, why
can’t we as jewelers innovate and create
more occasions for people to spend on
jewellery?” asks Karan.
On the right track
Recently, the NDC with its ‘For
Moments Like No Other’ campaign
featuring Ana de Armas focuses on
celebrating the myriad connections of
life where natural diamond jewellery is
worn. “The pandemic has shown us that
the consumer is not wanting to invest
in jewellery that has not only financial
but emotional value. They are looking
for pieces that become heirlooms and
complement their daily wear. Natural
diamonds fit all the needs of the
consumer as they represent strength
and are the ultimate symbol of love.
We are highlighting that it is not just
the big moments in life that can be
celebrated but every kind of moments
big or small and we have taken this
opportunity to showcase this in our
latest campaign ‘For Moments Like No
Other’ which celebrates moments that
are not limited to being the romantic
ones,” adds Richa.
Forevermark has also done a
fabulous job in promoting diamond
jewellery to the strong, independent
women. With its ‘Half Carat Diamond’
campaign, under the theme - ‘The
Better Half Within Me’ where the
film portrays women protagonists
pursuing their dreams and passions,
the brand tried speaking to the female
audience that is capable of making
independent choices to celebrate even
small milestones. Half-carat diamond
represents a sense of achievement.
“A brand needs to understand the
need and likes of these women from
the self-purchasing segment who look
for simple and meaningful pieces that
can be worn from day to night. Keeping
up with changes in society and being
aware of what the customer desires, we
will enable the industry to evolve and
continue to meet the demand for everyday
wear diamond jewellery. Not just
as a symbol of love and commitment,
but also as an expression of financial
independence and self-expression,”
adds Sachin. Their campaigns are
highly recognised by other retailers
as well. “Forevermark is doing a great
job. They are completely channeling
their marketing activities to target
these independent, working women.
And every campaign is also highly
informative. The awareness regarding
what to buy is something that is already
there when it comes to buying diamond
jewellery. We have only high-ticket
products. Women don’t mind spending
a chunk of their earnings towards
maybe a 50 pointer ring or a pair of
solitaire studs,” adds Mehta.
As women are
becoming more
independent, they
are easily coming
forward to buy
diamond jewellery for
themselves. Diamonds
have always been
portrayed as a symbol
of love and gifting. But
now that perception
is also changing. For a
woman who is working
9 to 5, she can go in
for a pair of solitaire
studs rather than polki
earrings and even she
realises this
Nakshatra Mehta,
Rare Heritage
Keeping up with changes in society and being aware of
what the customer desires, we will enable the industry
to evolve and continue to meet the demand for everyday
wear diamond jewellery. Not just as a symbol of love
and commitment, but also as an expression of financial
independence and self-expression
Sachin Jain, Managing Director, De Beers India
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 39

Special RepoRt
Forevermark Spring
Summer Trend Report 2021
Truly inspired
Developed at Forevermark’s Design and
Innovation Centre in Milan, the key themes
have been identified to inspire and shape
desire for jewellery featuring natural diamonds
for the Spring Summer 2021
Marking its seventh edition,
Forevermark the diamond brand
from the De Beers Group unveils
its Spring Summer Trend Report for 2021.
As the consumer landscape has undergone
significant change, a desire to invest in
purchases that are meaningful and have
enduring value, are more important than
ever. This is particularly the case when it
comes to diamond jewellery, where nuanced
insights underpin the creation of investment
pieces which combine timeless elegance
with contemporary appeal.
40 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special RepoRt
Spring/Summer 2021trends:
DIAMOND RAIN
Rain, and all that it symbolizes, is an
exhilarating source of inspiration and
optimism during times of challenge and
change. In its embodiment as rain, we
associate it with renewal, rejuvenation,
and growth. When translating rain’s
allure into diamond jewellery, the
remarkable properties of diamonds
such as their strength, natural beauty
and rarity, inspires us to desire for
new beginnings and clearer times. In
the same way that rain refreshes, we
can explore new ideas and incorporate
diamond cuts such as pears, marquise
and squares to replicate the stunning
fluid droplet and ripple movement
from rain and to transform much-loved
statement pieces to treasure forever.
TWIST & SHINE
Life’s unexpected twists and turns
can often be the catalyst for great new
things. They teach us to be adaptable
and agile, and to see opportunities in
every outcome. This trend is about
dynamism and surprise. Introduce
silhouettes based on sculptural twists
that thrill from every angle. A sweeping
band of pavé diamonds, or a striking
solitaire. Asymmetric diamond clusters,
or mixed cuts that build interest, and
perspective to draw the eye.
“Life can change in an instant. This
is a fact that every person on the planet
has felt, yet it is something which unites
us on a deep and significant level. As
mind-sets inevitably change, a more
considered approach to consumption
will draw us to meaningful purchases.
The trend DIAMOND RAIN showcases
the strength, beauty and rarity of
diamonds that inspire us to look forward,
just like the ability of rain to refresh and
revive. Together, these marvels of nature
symbolize our hopes and dreams. As
for TWIST & SHINEshowcases life’s
unexpected moments require us to be
agile,but they can also be the catalyst
for great new things. Harnessing the
versatility of diamonds – in their cuts
and the ways they are set – to translate
this concept.” says Federica Imperiali,
Head of New Product Development at
Forevermark.
The trend
DIAMOND RAIN
showcases
the strength,
beauty and
rarity of
diamonds that
inspire us to
look forward,
just like the
ability of rain to
refresh and
revive. Together,
these marvels of
nature
symbolize our
hopes and
dreams
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 41

Special Feature
Lab-grown diamond jewellery
Are Indian Retailers Ready
to Stock Lab-Grown
Diamond Jewellery?
BDB, Mumbai has plans to reverse its earlier ruling on trading of lab
grown diamonds and is considering allowing trading of lab grown
diamonds alongside naturally sourced diamonds. This move begets
a primary question; is the Indian consumer ready to pay for lab
grown diamond jewellery? Retailers and producers of lab grown
diamonds share their thoughts with R Sugandha
Is the end consumer ready for labgrown
diamond jewellery? This
question is gaining momentum
with every passing day. Lab grown
diamonds have been around for some
time now, but only recently have they
become widely known. Now, jewellers
are able to offer the highest quality
lab grown diamond jewellery at lower
prices than competitors from other
countries.
So, let’s get down to the brass tacks:
What exactly are diamonds? Lab grown
diamonds are identical to their natural
counterparts in every way, except they
are grown in a lab from a diamond
seed instead of pulled from the earth.
“Diamonds are made up almost entirely
of pure carbon. That’s why both lab
diamonds and mined diamonds have
the exact same physical properties.
They replicate the exact natural process
that forms earth grown diamonds, but
cost up to 40% less,” explains Parag
Agarwal of Fiona Diamonds, Mumbai.
46 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
What impact will BDB’s decision
have?
The Bharat Diamond Bourse
is mulling over the possibility of
offering trading options to lab grown
diamonds along with natural ones.
Possible guidelines include a separate
application or registration for those
who want to trade lab-grown diamonds
and separate stock and inventory
management systems.
Companies trading both natural and
lab-grown diamonds may be asked to
form two separate entities and set aside
an office space solely for lab-grown
diamonds.“The BDB members will have
to adhere to a set of guidelines formed
by the bourse’s management before
they are allowed to trade in synthetic
diamonds,” said Vice President Mehul
Shah in a press release about the
decision. “The intention is to keep
the two pipelines—natural and labgrown—separate.
Allowing lab-grown
diamond trading will help sustain
the Indian diamond manufacturing
industry. The industry has always
believed in being inclusive, and there
is a place for every product to exist as
long as the disclosures are made. I see
no reason why natural diamonds and
lab-grown diamonds cannot co-exist as
both products are important for keeping
the kitchen fires burning,” GJEPC
Chairman Colin Shah said.
are retailers ready to take the
plunge?
Although there is some confusion on
whether natural diamonds are the
same as lab grown diamonds, lab
diamonds contain all the properties and
characteristics that natural diamonds
possess. The two are in every way the
same—right down to their chemical
and optical properties. Even trained
geologists can’t tell the difference
between the two with the naked eye
alone. Explains Raghava Rastogi of
Jugal Kishore Jewellers, Lucknow, “I
don’t see lab grown diamonds becoming
a rage in India for at least the next 5-6
years because the buyback concept
in India is very strong and lab grown
diamonds don’t have a definitive buy
back structure. No manufacturer will
take back lab grown diamond jewellery
from any retailer. I am quite skeptical
about selling lab grown diamonds.”
Lab grown diamonds have given rise
to unscrupulous cases and that is why
grading has become intensive. Labs
The intention is to
keep the two pipelines
in BDB —natural and
lab-grown—separate.
Allowing lab-grown
diamond trading
will help sustain
the Indian diamond
manufacturing
industry. The industry
has always believed
in being inclusive,
and there is a place
for every product to
exist as long as the
disclosures are made.
I see no reason why
natural diamonds and
lab-grown diamonds
cannot co-exist.
colin Shah,
Chairman, GJEPC
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 47

Special Feature
Lab grown diamonds
can never replace
natural diamonds
totally. The demand for
lab grown diamonds
seems to be rising in
some circles, however
our nation-wide studies
prove that almost all
clients prefer natural
diamonds. So Kalyan
Jewellers will not stock
lab grown diamonds
anytime soon.
rajesh Kalyanaraman,
Director, Kalyan
Jewellers
have started using the word ‘natural’
diamond in their certification.Rajesh
Kalyanaraman of Kalyan Jewellers
explains, “Lab grown diamonds can
never replace natural diamonds totally.
The demand for lab grown diamonds
seems to be rising in some circles,
however, our nation-wide studies prove
that almost all clients prefer natural
diamonds. So Kalyan Jewellers will
not stock lab grown diamonds anytime
soon.” At the same time, “A few years
down the line if the demand for lab
grown diamonds shows a positive growth
and many people start asking for it we
may rethink our decision. In the near
future, however, I do not expect any
such change,” asserts Kalyanraman.
Clients in India always demand
naturally occurring diamonds and
there is no one coming forward to buy
lab grown diamonds. The technology
available for manufacturing lab grown
diamonds is evolving so fast that the
mechanisms and machinery involved
needs constant change. Currently, a
well-made lab grown diamond looks
exactly like a natural diamond – all
factors are exactly similar. However,
the Indian consumers are shying away
from buying diamond jewellery.Despite
the advantages of lab grown diamonds
Pankaj Seth, Durga Das Seth Jewellers,
Amritsar, says, “We would not deal in
lab grown diamonds ever. Lab grown
diamonds are chemical products,
natural pieces will have their own
charm. The only way to stop damage
to the industry is by not dealing in
lab grown varieties at all. If prices of
natural diamonds are high so be it, but
a good retailer will should never dilute
the quality aspect. We will not deal in
any type of synthetic stones.”
Drawing the distinction
“Lab grown diamonds are more like
cosmetic jewellery – the profits may be
high in lab grown variety – however,
demand for lab grown is diamond is
48 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
relatively absent among majority of
customers coming in to buy diamond
jewellery,” explains Rastogi. Pure
Swarovksi crystals are akin to synthetic
diamonds. In case of pure Swarovksi,
the brand matters – they have a different
supply-chain and the consumer class
is different. There is no comparison
between Swarovksi and naturally
occurring diamonds. Similarly, one
cannot compare lab grown diamonds
and natural ones.
Will a sudden spurt in trading
of lab grown diamonds give rise
to unscrupulous activities among
diamond jewellery retailers? To which
Pratap Kamath, Abaran Timeless
Jewellery, Bangalore says, “Those who
want to engage in deceit will do so, no
matter what – we cannot say because
of lab grown diamonds entering the
market such activities will increase.
Wrong people are there in every field.
They carry on with their malpractices
no matter what. We cannot stop them.
What we can do is provide increased
authenticity to products we deal in
-- we have gone in for a certification
from Forevermark for all our diamond
jewellery – stating that we have all
naturally occurring diamonds in our
jewellery. This gives an extra edge for
the buyer to buy from our store.”
lab grown diamonds have no
history
Shreyansh Kapoor of Kashi Jewellers,
Kanpur. “Naturally sourced diamonds
like the Kohinoor diamond, or the
Cullinan diamond, Star of South Africa,
these diamonds have stood the test
of time – they are part of our history.
Diamond jewellery is often part of a
legacy in families – where these are
heirloom pieces – what is the history of
man-made diamonds – a lab? It sounds
ridiculous.”
“The fact that BDB is planning to
allow trading of lab grown diamonds
will have no impact on the retail
industry which decides to remain loyal
to naturally sourced diamonds. This
is because even before BDB existed
small angadias have couriered and sold
I don’t see lab grown
diamonds becoming
a rage in India for at
least next 5-6 years
because the buyback
concept in India is
very strong and lab
grown diamonds don’t
have a definitive buy
back structure. No
manufacturer will
take back lab grown
diamond jewellery
from any retailer. I am
quite skeptical about
selling lab grown
diamonds.
raghava rastogi,
Jugal Kishore
Jewellers, Lucknow
Wrong people are there in every field. We cannot stop them.
What we can do is provide increased authenticity to products we
deal in -- we have gone in for a certification from Forevermark
certification for all our diamond jewellery – stating that we have
all naturally occurring diamonds in our jewellery. This gives an
extra edge for the buyer to buy from our store.
pratap Kamath, Abaran Timeless Jewellery, Bangalore
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 49

Special Feature
Naturally sourced
diamonds like the
Kohinoor diamond, or
the Cullinan diamond,
Star of South Africa,
have stood the test of
time – they are part of
our history. Diamond
jewellery is often part
of a legacy in families
– where these are
heirloom pieces – what
is the history of manmade
diamonds – a lab?
Shreyansh Kapoor,
Kashi Jewellers, Kanpur
diamonds for generations –they used to
open small pouches of select natural
diamonds and sell it to manufacturers
and retailers. Informal diamond trade
has been mixed with trading in nonnaturally
occurring diamonds for
years now. The percentage of mix-up
may have been miniscule – but it was
there and retailers and manufacturers
bought it despite knowing everything,”
explains Kapoor.
In case of contemporary lab grown
diamonds and naturally occurring ones,
the refractive index is same, specific
gravity is same, hardness of ten Mohs’
scale is same. Here, only the integrity
of the trader comes into picture and the
certification provided.
Sometime back, a Kimberly
process and certification of origin was
introduced to certify naturally occurring
diamonds – how can anyone determine
the origin for every diamond? It’s
practically impossible. “My suggestion
is – have a separate branding and
supply-chain for lab grown diamonds
and don’t juxtapose it with naturally
sourced diamonds. Another suggestion
is to start with coloured lab grown
varieties,” adds Kapoor.
Mined diamonds have a crystal
structure and so do lab grown diamonds.
Lab grown diamonds replicate the
crystal lattice-like structure of mined
diamonds. “Despite their similarities,
lab grown diamonds don’t destroy
wildlife or harm workers. Lab diamonds
grow in a controlled environment of
extreme pressure and heat, known
as High Pressure High Temperature
(HPHT) or Chemical Vapor Deposition
(CVD). Thanks to extensive research
and practice, lab grown diamonds grow
in the same way mined diamonds do,”
explains Veeral Luvani of Finegrown
Diamonds.
At present the Indian consumer at a
macro level is not willing to spend on
lab grown diamonds, many still prefer
mined diamonds. In future however the
scene could be different and people
may view lab grown diamonds as a
good substitute for naturally sourced
diamonds.
We would not deal in lab grown diamonds ever. Lab grown
diamonds are chemical products, natural diamonds have
their own charm. If prices of natural diamonds are high so
be it, a good retailer should never dilute the quality aspect.
We will not deal in any type of synthetic stones.
pankaj Seth, Durga Das Seth Jewellers, Amritsar
50 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
What effect will increasing
prices of rough diamonds have
on the market?
Up, Above,
Rough Prices
So High!
Prices of roughs have been rocketing in the
recent past, industry stalwarts believe that
they will stabilise soon. They share their
analysis with R Sugandha
52 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
The world’s biggest diamond
producers both De Beers
and ALROSA raised prices
of rough diamonds – once again
pushing the diamond-supply chain
out of gear. Confirms Vipul Sutariya
of Dharmanandan Diamonds Pvt Ltd,
“Yes, prices of rough diamonds have
been increasing in recent times. High
premiums also exist in the secondary
market.” Explaining the probable cause
of this price hike, Nilesh Chhabria
of Finestar Diamonds says, “Mining
companies usually keep a close watch
on demand for cut and polished
diamonds and retail demand as well.
Therefore, their prices change based
on the market trends that they study.”
prices are a reflection of
demand-supply dynamics
Whereas Evgeny Augureev, Deputy
CEO, ALROSA explains, “Rough
diamond prices dynamics mirror the
real, confirmed demand from the
midstream sector. We saw a double
digits growth in jewellery demand in the
second half of 2020 and a good demand
in early 2021 driven by both improved
consumer sentiment and a pent-up
demand.” Rough diamond prices will
depend on demand and supply balance
Rough diamond
dynamics will depend
on demand and supply
balance while being
linked to polished prices’
dynamics. ALROSA
always makes sure that
prices reflect the actual
market trends and a
confirmed real demand.
evgeny augureev,
Deputy CEO, ALROSA
Prices of rough
diamonds will hopefully
stabilise in the coming
months. At present this
hike has affected the
manufacturers of cut
and polished diamonds
alone. It hasn’t affected
retail demand for
diamond jewellery.
Nilesh chhabria,
Finestar Diamonds
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 53

Special Feature
while being linked to polished prices’
dynamics. ALROSA always makes
sure that prices reflect the actual
market trends and a confirmed real
demand. In recent months, the industry
is evidencing a promising market
development. The demand for rough
diamonds is solid and all prerequisites
for price recovery are in place.
effect on the diamonds’ supply
chain
Will this price hike lead to increase
in prices of polished diamonds? To
which the industry is hopeful that
it doesn’t. However, according to
Hasmukh Ramani, wholesaler and
manufacturer KGK Diamonds, Antwerp
says, “Eventually prices of polished
diamonds will increase as availability
of certain sized polished diamonds
are difficult to procure.” Whereas,
Sutariya believes that most producers
of polished diamonds will not let the
prices of polished diamonds to increase
as it will have a cascading effect of
demand for diamond jewellery at the
retail level and could put the whole
diamond industry at a disadvantage.
While Chhabria says, “Increase in
prices of roughs after a point may affect
prices of cut and polished diamonds as
well.”
As prices of rough diamonds are
dependent on prices of cut and polished
diamonds and retail demand as well,
Ramani opines, “Normally price rise
will stay up for a period of time, but
again this is always unpredictable.”
uncertainty on an all-time high
At present uncertainty rules the global
market. This uncertainty is owing to the
pandemic – as the diamond industry
never expected a good demand for
diamond jewellery in the last quarter
of 2020, but everyone was pleasantly
surprised.“Therefore it would be
difficult to predict if prices of roughs
will fall in the near future. They
may surely stabilise for some time,”
explains Chhabria. Till the second
quarter diamantaires need to watch the
fluctuating prices of rough diamonds.
eventually prices have to
stabilise
According to Sutariya, thereafter in the
third and fourth quarter these prices
may fall marginally and stabilise to
some extent. “First the premiums may
come down and then the prices of
rough diamonds produced by mining
companies may come down,” Sutariya
informs.
The year 2021 has begun on a decent
note, news of the vaccine has brought
cheer among the masses and uplifted
the hopes of millions of people. In the
United States owing to a good fiscal
stimulus by the American government
their business are again cash rich
and therefore demand for diamond
jewellery still sustains. China, on
the other hand overcame its Covid19
crisis earlier than may countries of
the world and therefore their markets
have opened and there is demand for
cut and polished diamonds. “All the
same, no one can predict prices of
rough diamonds throughout the year –
it would be ideal to have stabilised flow
so one can plan accordingly but that is
not possible,” says Chhabria. While
both Ramani and Sutariya are hopeful
that prices will stabilise by the third
quarter of this year.
Demand goes through its cycles
Fall in demand is something that every
54 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
business owner has to take into account
while drawing up a business plan.
Everyone is scared of an unexpected
demand crunch.
Says Chirag Jogani of Anita Diamonds,
“Now that we are slowly coming out of the
health crisis the producers are bringing
rough prices back to where they were
pre-pandemic. This trend could continue
a little longer but we do not expect drastic
price hikes.”
Mining industry too had its low points
Over the last two years, the
industry has decreased its stockpiles
significantly, and the diamond value
chain has regained its balance. At the
same time, supply of rough diamonds is
structurally set to decrease from 2010s
peaks due to mines’ depletions. “We
assume that in 2020s supply will be
20-25 per cent below the pre-COVID
levels, and our clients understand
that diamonds are finite and scarce
resource,” informs Augureev.
lGDs will be an option
What also needs to be observed here
is that there has been a simultaneous
change in certification of lab grown
diamonds – where they too can
be declared as ‘real’ diamonds
in certificates of authenticity
accompanying purchase of such
diamonds. While Ramani, ardently
explains, “I agree about the price and
Normally price rise will
stay up for a period of
time, but again this is
always unpredictable
to say what’s going to
happen with this covid
situation. If prices are
increasing constantly
demand may eventually
go down.
Hasmukh ramani,
KGK Diamonds
Rise in prices of rough
diamonds may not
increase the prices of
polished diamonds. The
midstream industry will
have to bear the price
difference. The premium
at present is high.
Vipul Sutariya,
Dharmanandan
Diamonds Pvt Ltd.
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 55

Special Feature
Now that we are
slowly coming out
of the health crisis
the producers are
bringing rough prices
back to where they
were, pre-pandemic.
This trend could
continue a little
longer but we do not
expect drastic price
hikes.
chirag Jogani,
Anita Diamonds
demand situation but what I always
disagree is that a real diamond lover or
a real investor will never go for a CVD
diamond or a HPHT diamond because
it’s like buying a fake Rolex or a fake
Hermes, so that’s not worth it.”
As technology develops and becomes
cheaper, lab grown diamonds are more
and more actively used to produce
fashion jewellery and accessories.
This niche stands apart from natural
diamonds’ main segment. Natural
diamonds are emotionally charged
items symbolizing precious moments
or important achievements. Thus,
the demand for them depends not
just on price but on other factors,
including guaranteed authenticity
and provenance. Says Augureev, “We
welcome the fact that end-consumers
always have a choice. Indeed, there is
enough room at the market.”
Natural and lGDs have separate
supply chain
Naturally mined diamonds always will
be sold for their emotional connect with
clients, who will buy such diamond
jewellery irrespective of their prices.
LGDs will also thrive among a separate
sections of clients, who want to flaunt
the quality jewellery regardless of the
fact from where the diamonds were
sourced. World over LGDs have a
different clientele altogether. They
cannot and should not be mixed with
naturally mined diamonds without
appropriate knowledge of the buyer.
That is where the line needs to be
drawn.
Erstwhile dealers of naturally mined
diamonds Jogani opines, “There will
inevitably be a parallel market for
fake diamonds for those who don’t
understand the inherent value of the real
deal. Manufacturers will be drawn to
easy margins but the value of synthetic
diamonds can only go downwards since
its production becomes cheaper over
time.”
Therefore, what needs to be noted
here is that diamantaires aren’t willing
to let the price of diamond jewellery
sold at the retail level increase despite
the currently steep prices of rough
diamonds. All diamantaires agree on
one fact that – LGDs can be sold to
buyers who are willing to buy those, but
they can never replace naturally mined
diamonds – both are totally different
types of diamonds with a separate
supply chain and all players therein
are aware of the fact that the twain do
not meet.
56 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
Jewels from Paris Haute
Couture Week 2021
Jewels
for Keeps
High jewellery houses from Place
Vendôme have pulled all stops to create
pieces that are simply works of art
Apart from sweeping gowns and
show-stopping haute couture
outfits that wowed the audience
at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week
in January, high jewellery maisons
from Place Vendôme pulled all stops to
showcase jewellery that has never been
seen before.
It is rather evident that the teams
at these high jewellery maisons have
kept themselves busy during this
pandemic, to create such inspiring
pieces. From Chanel’s tribute to Venice
to Boucheron’s interpretation of Art
Deco, here are some collections that
are spectacular.
58 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
Ellesmere Island
Namibian dessert
De Beers Reflections of Nature
It is not often that diamond mines, where the most
miraculous phenomenon of the formation of diamonds
over a billion years is celebrated. This time, De Beers,
paints us a beautiful picture from Canada all the way
to Botswana, with 39 spectacular pieces. From taking
inspiration from the colours of Botswana’s Okavango
Delta, the beauty of South Africa’s Motlatse Canyon and
the natural wilderness of Canada’s Ellesmere Island, to
taking cues from Namibia and the Landers coral reef,
these pieces best capture the quintessence of these
regions where diamonds are formed.
The aesthetic is a combination of
minimalism, bold and classic. Perfectly cut
diamonds are carefully combined with
handpicked fancy colour diamonds in
pear, cushion and marquise shapes.
The vibrant and plush Okavango Delta
has been reinterpreted with free-flowing
diamonds with a combination of rough
colour diamonds (to showcase the rawness
of the land). Inspired by the icy splendor
of Canada’s Ellesmere Island, the white
diamonds used to craft these jewels mirror the symmetry
of this winter wonderland. Pieces in Motlatse Marvel
brings out the allure of towering peaks and cavernous
depths of Motlatse Canyon, during sunrise and sunset
The aesthetic is a combination
of minimalism, bold and classic.
Perfectly cut diamonds are carefully
combined with handpicked fancy
colour diamonds in pear, cushion
and marquise shapes
with the use diamonds and a smattering of fancy colour
diamonds in hues of yellow, orange and pink.
A natural wonder of South Africa,
Landers Reef is abundant with coral
and tropical fish in veritable hues.
Like jewels of the ocean, shoals dart
through pink, purple and yellow
coral, while dolphins glide through
the warm waters. A unique selection
of exquisite white and fancy colour
diamonds brings this exceptional
scenery to life in the Landers Radiance set.
Namibian desert’s distinctive ochre and red
sands glow in the intense heat while at night some of
the darkest skies to cloak the earth are alight with stars.
Illuminated by timeless diamonds, the Namib Wonder
set echoes the ancient beauty of this landscape through
a unique aesthetic.
The Motlatse Marvel ring
Okavango Grace
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 59

Special Feature
Plastron Émeraudes necklace
Boucheron A History of Style
true ode to the flapper era where
A women empowered themselves
with masculine silhouettes, short hair,
showing off their décolletage with long
necklaces, with A History of Style,
Boucheron redefines Art Déco and
how? Creative director Claire Choisne
and her team have gone back in time, to
understand Boucheron’s interpretation
of Art Déco through time. The Cravate
Émeraude necklace, a piece of jewellery
just like a tie, echoing to those
flapper years, where women asserted
their style through details gleaned
from the masculine wardrobe. The
necklace features a spectacular 8.02
carat emerald surrounded by diamonds
that can be detached and worn as a
brooch. The Ruban Diamonds set also
represents gender fluidity in a sense,
with baguette and round diamonds –
the chevron pattern, iconic of Art Déco,
this graphic line can equally be a belt,
a headband, a choker, or even two
genderless bracelets.
Nœud Diamants is a work of art – a
bow-tie with the contrast of black and
white, which can be worn in different
ways, a bow-tie as well as two kinds of
rings, true to the maison’s multiwear
Plastron Émeraudes necklace
Noeud Diamants
Cravate Émeraude necklace
Creative director
Claire Choisne and her
team have gone back
in time, to understand
Boucheron’s
interpretation
of Art Déco through
time
tradition. Another standout piece is
Plastron Émeraudes necklace, which
mimics an armour crafted in bold,
voloptuous emeralds. This proud
plastron borrows its grandeur from
that time when men wore High
Jewellery as a sign of power
and glory. This statement
necklace can transform
into a choker and a bracelet,
and its design is available as a
graphic ring and two different pairs of
earrings.
60 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Chanel
Escale à
Venise
Special Feature
Constellation
Astrale set
With
four
different
themes, this
collection containing 70
pieces is an unabashed
tribute to Venice’s
architecture, its lagoon islands
and the quintessential lion that is
found in many of Venice’s popular
locations, coincidentally, the lion is
also Gabrielle Chanel’s own Zodiac
sign. Patrice Leguéreau, Chanel’s
Jewellery head, went on a sojourn to
Venice in 2018 with a sketchbook. What
he saw was a romantic town of blue
waters and charming edifices, a place
Gabriel Chanel took comfort in, after the
death of her love Arthur “Boy” Capel.
The collection is divided into four
‘chapters’: La Sérénissime (dedicated
to the architecture of Venice), Gran
Canale (inspired by the city’s famous
waterway), Isole Della Laguna (an ode to
the lagoon islands surrounding Venice)
Eblouissante necklace and earrings
and Spirito di
Venezia (introducing
the lion synonymous with
both Venice and Coco Chanel).
In Eblouissante, the pastel
colours and geometric aesthetic
of a Venetian palaces come alive,
with a necklace crafted in soft pink
spinels, white diamonds and pearls set
in pink gold and platinum, in cascading
geometric motifs.
In Serenissime, (a French word for
Venice), black onyx are juxtaposed
alongside pastel pink, yellow and
orange sapphires, and spessartine
garnets to mimic the Byzantine-era
mosaics. At the heart of the necklace
is a large 27.09 carat oval mandarin
This collection
containing 70 pieces is an
unabashed
tribute to Venice’s
architecture, its
lagoon islands and the
quintessential lion that is
found in many of Venice’s
popular locations,
coincidentally, the lion
is also Gabrielle Chanel’s
own Zodiac sign
Serenissime
Byzantine inspired
necklace
yellow sapphire. The show-stopping
piece of the collection, however, is the
Constellation Astrale chapter of the
Spirito di Venezia set. Carefully cut
shards of lapis lazuli act as a backdrop
for yellow sapphire studded stars,
with white diamond accents in a jawdropping
necklace, bracelet, earrings
and cocktail ring. The set is an ode to
Venice’s beautiful star-studded indigo
sky at night and the legendary winged
lion on a mosaic sky that features on St
Mark’s Basilica.
Ruban Canotier ring
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 61

Special Feature
Halley transformable
necklace
Van Cleef &
Arpels Sous Les
Étoiles
Ison cuff
bracelet
Céphéide
transformable
necklace
The poetry of Cosmos has been eloquently
expressed with 150 pieces in this grand savoirfaire
redolent with handpicked gemstones. The
Halley transformable necklace and ring is inspired
by the passage of Halley’s Comet, visible from Earth
every 75 years. The Maison interprets it here in a
radiant composition, accentuated by a contrasting
interplay of white and yellow diamonds. The creation
is illuminated by a fancy vivid yellow diamond
weighing 11.29 carats, mimicking the head of the
comet.
The Ison cuff bracelet evokes the eponymous comet
that disintegrated into a diffuse and radiant cloud
after passing too close to the Sun in 2013. Diamonds
provide a dazzling accompaniment to Mystery Set
rubies, in an association that is characteristic of Van
Cleef & Arpels. The rubies were recut individually by
hand, before being placed into
gold rails that follow the shape
of the bracelet. The fruit of a
close collaboration between
jeweler and lapidary, the set
surfaces display a brilliantly
uniform shade of red.
Another highlight from
this collection is the Céphéide
transformable necklace. Brighter
than the Sun, Cepheids are giant
stars whose intense radiance differs
rhythmically every week. The necklace
depicts the radiance of these heavenly bodies
in a bold gradation of shades. Punctuated by mauve
sapphire, tsavorite garnet and diamond motifs, the
necklace showcases eleven chalcedony cabochons,
weighing a total of 159.72 carats.
The Halley transformable
necklace and ring is inspired
by the passage of Halley’s
Comet, visible from Earth
every 75 years
62 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature
Earrings in rose
gold with black
diamonds
Pomellato
Kintsugi
Pomellato’s Kintsugi capsule collection
consists of just three styles in two colour
tones – inspired by the ancient Japanese
tradition of mending. Crafted using jet
and kogolong along with pavé diamonds
in yellow gold, the collection was created
by repurposing damaged stones, repairing
them with gold to create extraordinary and
gorgeous pieces that thrive because of their
imperfection.
Pomellato collaborated with a Tokyo-based
kintsugi master to create these pieces which
were finished at its workshop in Milan. The
collection that looks to traditional Japanese
repairing technique of kintsugi uses gold
resin to fuse together shattered pieces of
porcelain. In today’s time where minimalism
and sustainability are cornerstones of every
brand’s ideology, this collection inspired by
themes of upcycling and multiculturalism,
is a representation of everything that the
brand stands for.
Orpheis necklace
Tillandsia necklace
Cartier [Sur]naturel
The collection which made its debut in July 2020, is Cartier’s
expression of Nature, its veritable creatures, colours, shapes and
forms. The collection takes inspiration from the earthy and aquatic
tones with emeralds, rubies, diamonds and other gemstones.
The Tillandsia necklace inspired by the plant of the same name
carries two stunning, oval-shaped green beryls weighing 83.23 and
81.09 carats respectively, with a smattering of pink rutilated quartz
and bright yellow diamonds. The maison’s signature combination of
black, white and green has been used in many pieces, particularly
the Orpheis necklace crafted in diamonds that are set in a staggered
manner, onyx triangles (to represent the creature’s spine) and an
enormous 53.94 carat intense blue-green Zambian emerald, in
an unique rectangular
cabochon shape. Another
standout piece from this
collection is the Hemis
necklace that is crafted in
ink blue opals, which have
been cut in a way to mimic
Cartier’s signature panther
spots. The necklace is a
kaleidoscopic treat, where
the blue has a smidgen of
purple and grey as well. At
the centre of the necklace is
a 71.80 carat intense pink
kunzite.
Hemis necklace
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 63

The Rock Talk
Bangle with 12.81 cts. t.w. yellow diamonds and 5.89 cts. round
white diamonds in 18k white gold, Cirari
18k yellow gold lets play chess
pendant with citrine center
stone, NeverNoT
Pantone Colour of the Year – Illuminating
a Burst of Sunshine
Pantone declared ‘Illuminating’ an invigorating shade of
lemon yellow as one of its colours this year. From yellow
sapphire, diamonds to topaz, lemon quartz and heliodor,
these jewels sure do pack a punch
16ct lemon quartz ring in 14kt
yellow gold, Ross Simons
Heliodor bumble bee ring, Ricardo Basta
Yellow quartz bee ring in sterling silver
and 18k gold, Tiffany & Co
Yellow and white diamond
bangle, David Morris
2.74ct fancy yellow diamond 18kt gold
ballerine halo ring, Oscar Heyamn
Cushion-shaped lemon quartz double drop
earrings in 18k yellow gold, Goshwara
64 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

The Rock Talk
L’Arc 18K
white gold
necklace,
Davidor
56.10 carat
Fancy Intense
Yellow and
white diamond
necklace, Graff
Bengal
tiger
inspired
earrings in
Heliodor,
Atelo
Square
16ct lemon quartz and
diamond ring, Caprice
XpandableTM ring in colourless diamonds
and fancy yellow diamond, Picchiotti
Taille Emaraude ring set with a 13.76ct
emerald-cut heliodor beryl, a citrin and
rock crystal, on yellow gold, Boucheron
Yellow
diamond
earrings with
colourless
diamonds,
Garrard
Gold yellow aluminium
earrings, Casa Castro
The artist yellow citrine and white
enamel large ring, Nina Runsdorf
Papillon ring
in 1.62-carat
triangular
brilliantcut
fancy
orange yellow
diamond with
850 white
and yellow
diamonds,
Anna Hu
Yellow diamond ring, Simon Teakle
Yellow sapphire and demantoid
garnet pendant earrings, Hemmerle
Heliodor golden beryl diamond halo
ring, Wilson’s Estate Jewelry
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 65

The Rock Talk
Ring with rose
cut diamonds
(11.7ctw)
and Autumn
Diamonds®
(1.77ctw) in
18k yellow
gold and
aluminum,
Tod Reed
Custom oval grey
diamond cluster ring,
Bario Neal
Grey agate
galactica UFO ring,
Jacqueline Cullen
Pantone Colour of the
Year – Ultimate Gray
19 Shades of Grey
To offset the radiance of yellow,
Pantone has chosen ‘Ultimate Gray’
also as one of its colours this year. From
cool grey opals, rustic grey diamonds
to genial grayish moonstones and
iridescent Tahitian pearls, here are our
favourite jewels in grey
White gold
Twilight necklace
set with 13.34cts
of diamonds,
alongside black
Tahitian pearls,
YOKO London
Tahitian pearl
and diamond
necklace,
Yoko London
Grey spinel gatsby
diamond engagement
ring, Artisan Bespoke
Jewellers
Radiant cut grey diamond engagement ring, Sofia
Kaman Fine Jewels
Grey diamond cluster ring,
Ruth Tomlinson
Grey moonstone
earrings with diamonds,
Featherstone Fine Jewelry
66 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

The Rock Talk
Rose cut slice
fancy grey
diamond necklace,
Dilamani
Nudo ring
in obsidian
in smokey
grey hues,
Pomellato
18k black and white Tahitian
pearl necklace, Bopie’s
Diamonds and Fine Jewelry
Natural pearl and diamond
clip brooch, David Webb
Orbe 18K yellow gold, agate and diamond
Necklace, Eduarda Brunelli
Tear drop shaped domes in a
contemporary design of sparkling grey
diamond lattice on glamorous drop
earrings of oxidised silver, Jaipur Atelier
Galaxy 18K rose gold, diamond and
crystallized agate ring, Lydia Courteille
Elegant
18k yellow
gold textile
earrings with
7.5ctw grey
diamonds,
Amali
18kt rose gold rose cut
labradorite bracelet, Irene
Neuwirth
Grey diamond slice ring,
Sweetpea
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 67

The Rock Talk
Rouge incandescent
necklace, Chanel
Rose inspired diamond studs, Anita Ko
Rose earrings with red Venetian glass
& amethyst, Bahnia
Rose petal earrings, Jar
Rose-inspired Jewels
a Rose is a Rose is a Rose
As we celebrated the month of love, we pay tribute
some of the best jewels that mimic the beauty of
this universally favourite flower – Rose
Rose red ruby
necklace, Stenzhorn
Rings, Ror Dior Pop collection
Coral and diamond
Rose de Noel
necklace set, Van
Cleef & Arpels
Pink opal & diamond brooch,
Chopard
18K rose gold vermeil and
multi-stone ring Anabela Chan
68 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD
Gold rose brooch, Cartier
Carved coral rose brooch,
Boucheron

AdvertoriAl
DRC Techno
Safeguarding
the Industry
With its superior technology, DRC Techo has
been pioneering in the field of producing stateof-the-art
testing instruments
GEM ID Launched to Protect from Fraudulent Activities
DRC Techno, a leading
technology company focused on
serving the diamond industry,
announced the creation of their newest
GemID identification instrument
and accompanying storage system.
The GemID machine is designed to
provide absolute, completely unique
identification of any diamond scanned
into its system thereby offering consumers
complete confidence that the diamond
that they have purchased can be verified
after handling by a third party.
GemID technology scans a diamond of
any size or shape whether it is loose or
mounted in a matter of seconds. It then
identifies the unique digital signature
of the diamond, like scanning its DNA,
before the proprietary technology
digitizes the information for universal
storage of the encrypted data. Any other
user of GemID technology can re-scan
the diamond at any time and provide
positive identification of the diamond.
The jewelry industry has been
continually plagued by dishonest
individuals who try to evade current
certification and identification systems.
The switching of laboratory
certified diamonds or even stones of
smaller size has haunted uncertain
consumers. They want to be assured
that their precious gemstones can
always be verified as genuine and
authentic. DRC Techno’s GemID
instrument allows them to be
confident that the diamond they buy
today will be globally registered as
their diamond.
For concerned consumers, retailers,
laboratories or even insurers, DRC
Techno’s GemID system can give
them absolute assurance that their
diamond is unique among all others.
Unlike other systems, the technology
is easy and fast to use without
slowing customer transactions in
the sales or service areas. GemID
cost $4999 (USD) and comes with a
comprehensive one-year warranty.
Founded in 2012 as a not-forprofit
research center in Surat,
India, DRC Techno is dedicated
to the development of gemological
instruments for the diamond industry.
With more than 850 high level
diamond identification machines
operating in 28 countries, the
company has 24 hour a day support
and U.S. based engineers to help
their customers. Their focus is
instruments that provide verified
diamond identification, the positive
identification of laboratory grown
diamonds, and other diamond
industry manufacturing and
technical devices. DRC Techno
is fully integrated and conducts
its own research, development,
manufacturing, and support.
70 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD

AdvertoriAl
J Mini Pro
J-Mini pro is smallest and
most economic automatic
lab-grown (CVD/HPHT)
detector can scan four rings,
other small jewelry, and
loose diamonds in less than a
minute. Take the security and
assurance of your diamonds
wherever you go with J Mini,
an over-the-counter device.
Rough & Polished
J-Detect Pro
J-Detect Pro is an automatic
lab-grown (CVD/HPHT)
diamond detector with Medium
scanning capacity, its scan
all shapes and sizes, loose
diamond or mounted diamond
jewelry and you can get the
result with just one click.
Rough & Polished
J Smart Pro
J Smart Pro is an automatic labgrown
(CVD/HPHT) diamond
detector with maximum
scanning capacity. Its extra
vigilant eyes can scan and
identify stones of all shapes and
sizes, loose or mounted on big
jewelry such as necklaces and
you can get the result with just
one click.
Rough & Polished
All Shapes
All Shapes
All Shapes
Loose & Mounted
Loose & Mounted
Loose & Mounted
Colors
D to K
Scanning area
2.4 inch x 2.4 inch
Scanning time
45 to 90 seconds
Diamond Size
0.003 carat and larger
Dimension
8.6 x 4.9 x 4.6 (in inch)
Colors
D to K
Scanning area
4.5 inch x 3.8 inch
Scanning time
45 to 90 seconds
Diamond Size
0.003 carat and larger
Dimension
12.4 x 10.8 x 14.9 (in inch)
Colors
D to K
Scanning area
9 inch x 6 inch
Scanning time
45 to 90 seconds
Diamond Size
0.003 carat and larger
Dimension
16.14 x 15.55 x 18.70 (in
inch)
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 71

Design stuDio
Melissa Kaye Fine Jewelry
Of Hope &
Happiness
Melissa Kaye’s jewels are edgy,
intelligent, fun and timeless, just like
the women they are made for, observes
Vijetha Rangabashyam
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Design stuDio
New York based jewellery
designer Melissa Kaye’s
creations are edgy, vibrant
and timeless. She has been in love
with jewellery for as long as she can
remember. “I can’t pinpoint a specific
moment that turned me on to jewellery,
but I’ve been in love with it for as long
as I can remember. Growing up, I had
a bench set-up in my bedroom and was
always working on new projects. To this
day, my mother has held onto a few of
my childhood designs.” After finishing
her two-year jewellery design program
at the Fashion Institute of Technology
which focused on both design process
and bench work, Melissa Kaye
launched her eponymous label.
Her jewels are cheerful and radiate
optimism, with its vivacious neon
shades. A mélange of florescent hued
enamel and diamonds come together
in her pieces, a style that has become
exclusive to Melissa. She describes
her jewels as ‘Fun Luxury’. “We strive
to create jewellery that is made of
the highest quality materials, that is
functional, innovative, fun, beautiful,
and collectible. We take great pride in
our meticulous craftsmanship. All of
our pieces are handcrafted by expert
artisans in NYC, using responsibly
sourced precious metals and stones. We
consider our jewelry to be investment
pieces that are meant to be worn and
enjoyed daily.”
Her latest collection Ada mimics a
unique chain pattern, bursting in shades
of neon pink, green, yellow, orange and
more! One look at these pieces and you
are transported to a candy factory! “I’ve
wanted to introduce a custom chain for
a while: something unique, true to
our aesthetic and that would
work in all of our signature
finishes (gold, diamond
and enamel).
We strive
to create
jewellery that
is made of the
highest quality
materials, that is
functional,
innovative, fun,
beautiful,
and collectible.
We take great
pride in our
meticulous
craftsmanship
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 73

Design stuDio
We design for an accomplished and confident woman, who
has a refined ease to her. Although her style is luxurious, it
transcends labels. More importantly, she appreciates quality
and meticulous craftsmanship
We took our time developing different
ideas until finalizing a silhouette that
had the proper proportions and weight.
The Ada chain is bold and luxurious,
and its substantial weight makes it feel
like a second skin.”
Melissa’s jewellery might be geometric
in nature but her thought process is
certainly not. “My design process is
definitely not linear. I would say I’m
perpetually in “design mode”. By that
I mean, inspiration is everywhere so
I’m constantly trying to keep my eyes
and mind open to generate new ideas.
While at times I might design with
certain stones, materials or techniques
in mind, my starting point is typically
more conceptual and then I explore
how to realize that concept.”
As consumers are becoming more
mindful and inclined towards buying
light weight albeit stylish pieces,
Melissa’s pieces fit right into that
sensibility. “Over the past year, the fine
jewellery market has thrived despite
the current environment. Consumers
are taking a more mindful approach
and making investment purchases that
are not only sentimental but also have
a mood-boosting effect. Furthermore,
the mindset around fine jewellery
has relaxed, opening the category to
a broader range of consumers. Our
clients are reaching for their jewels
even in their sweatpants, tees and jeans
and as a result, wearing their jewelry
more often. Fine jewelry is no longer
meant to sit in a safe.”
A typical Melissa Kaye woman likes
luxury but is not a slave to labels.
“We design for an accomplished and
confident woman, who has a refined
ease to her. Although her style is
luxurious, it transcends labels. More
importantly, she appreciates quality
and meticulous craftsmanship. She is
sophisticated yet unassuming – her
jewellery is a reflection of that.”
In these trying times, Melissa’s brand
has embraced digital completely. “We
are all fortunate that we’re in a digital
age, making it easy to stay connected
to our audience virtually. Even before
the outbreak of COVID-19, Instagram
has been an incredibly powerful tool
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Design stuDio
to showcase our brand internationally
and connect with clients. We’ve also
adapted to using other online platforms
such as Zoom to stay in touch with
retail partners and clients. Although,
we certainly miss seeing everyone faceto-face,
technology has really allowed
our business to thrive during this time.”
What makes her pieces fun yet
classy is the intelligent marriage of
diamonds with a smorgasbord of bright
hues. “Diamonds are central to our
designs, and what our brand is known
for, so they will always be a priority to
our consumer. It’s important to us to
be transparent about where we source
our diamonds from, to give clients the
peace of mind that we follow the most
ethical and sustainable practices in
crafting our collection. As a brand,
we continue to educate ourselves and
evolve our strategy to adhere to best
practices.”
Melissa is a born and bred New
Yorker and is proud to have lived
there her entire life (college aside)!
“From the people and the pace, to the
architecture, art and urban nature,
NYC is a never-ending
source of inspiration.
It brings me great
joy to be able to
design and produce
our collection with
local artisans in the
city I call home.”
Come spring, you
can expect a number
of extensions to the
existing collection. “We
are always hard at work
on new projects. We really
listen to our clients and take into
account what they are looking for, while
also pushing the boundaries of design
to introduce fresh and exciting new
pieces. We are working on a number
of extensions to the collection and are
looking forward to introducing some of
those in the spring.”
Melissa’s most recent visit to the
Middle East has opened up her
perspective towards design. “I think
any change of scenery is hugely
beneficial to the design process – it
always helps to open my mind and see
things from a different perspective.
New ideas are born from new ways of
thinking and new experiences. This is
why I love to travel. Middle East has
provided a great source of inspiration
– in particular, the architecture and
culture really resonate with me.”
Diamonds are
central to our
designs, and
what our brand
is known for, so
they will always
be a priority to
our consumer. It’s
important to us to
be transparent
about where
we source our
diamonds from,
to give clients the
peace of mind
that we follow
the most ethical
and sustainable
practices in
crafting our
collection
DiamonD WorlD | january-february 2021 | 75

GIA AdvertorIAl
Stone Talk
Amethyst
Amethyst is the purple variety of the mineral species
quartz. Admired for millennia, amethyst has a colourful
lore: It was once thought to prevent drunkenness, keep
the wearer clear-headed and quick-witted in battle and
business affairs, and calm lovers overrun by passion.
Amethyst has played a starring role in religious
and royal jewelry for centuries. It has adorned
the fingers of bishops and brightened the
coronation regalia of British royalty. And
it was once considered the equal of ruby,
emerald and sapphire.
Colour
The finest amethyst colour is a strong
reddish purple or purple, without any
noticeable colour zoning when looking
at the stone from the top. Purple hues
that are too light, too dark
or brownish are less desirable.
©GIA 2019. GIA® and Gemological Institute of America® are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
76 | january-february 2021 | DiamonD WorlD
ADT190014_India_Advertorial_Amethyst_v3.indd All Pages

GIA AdvertorIAl
Clarity
Most of the faceted amethyst in the market is “eye
clean,” meaning it lacks eye-visible inclusions. Gem
professionals overlook minor inclusions when the
gem is richly coloured and otherwise high quality.
Visible inclusions in light-coloured gems greatly
reduce their value.
Sources
Russia was the major amethyst source until the 19 th
century, until a huge amethyst deposit was found in
Brazil. The once scarce purple gem was suddenly in
abundance. Today, the two major sources for amethyst
are Africa and South America. African mines now
provide most of the fine-colour amethyst.
Cut
Amethyst is available in a wide variety of fancy
shapes, including custom cuts. Most cutting styles
are calibrated in standard millimetre sizes for use
in mass-market jewellery.
To learn more about amethyst and other popular
gemstones visit GIA.edu/gem-encyclopedia
Treatments
Heat treatment is the most common technique to
improve the colour of natural amethyst. Heat treatment
can lighten the colour of very dark amethyst to make
it more attractive, but it cannot darken pale amethyst.
Also know that lab-created amethyst is sold. The
GIA Laboratory can determine if a gem’s origin is
natural or synthetic.
This article is provided by GIA (Gemological Institute of America ® ).
GIA.edu
Images Courtesy of: David Stanley Epstein, Marya Dabrowski
Learn More About GIA Education Programmes and Laboratory Services in India
GIAindia.in Email: labindia@gia.edu Email: eduindia@gia.edu
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