Diamond World (DW) November- December 2020

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Personality Gemfields Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies Joanna Hardy, Independent Gemmologist and Jewellery Expert Of KnOwledge & BrIllIancE One of world’s foremost experts on gems and jewellery, Joanna Hardy talks about the state of colour gemstones during this pandemic, her books, most favourite jewellery and more 68 | November-December 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
Personality How have exquisite rare gemstones faired since Covid-19? The situation created by Covid-19 has highlighted gemstones’ rarity and coloured gemstone prices have not dipped; if anything, their prices have increased slightly. In times like these, people who have money want tangible assets -people want to put their money into an asset. I think they are becoming more aware of what rarity means. Though the value of sought-after gemstones like Pigeon Blood Rubies or Kashmiri Sapphires have markedly increased over the years, the awareness regarding these gemstones are still relatively low (as compared to diamonds). Especially in markets like India, colour gemstones don’t hold the same value – how can we as an industry collectively change this mindset? We have had 100 years of De Beers telling everyone that white diamonds are rare and they have done a fantastic job of marketing white diamonds. Never underestimate the power of marketing. If you throw millions at a concept over decades, it gets ingrained in people’s awareness. Going forward, writing about the coloured gemstone market is how we will collectively change this market. I do love diamonds - out of all the white stones it is the best stone by miles, no other stone has its adamantine lustre - but white diamonds are not rare. There are more natural diamonds than demand, whereas there are not as many natural rubies. There is no comparison between the two. You can afford an untreated, no-HPHT white diamond, but an unheated ruby is often out of reach. People gravitate towards white diamonds because they can afford them, like for like with rubies. In the auction world, there has truly been a digital revolution - do you think the good old days of physical auctions and the whole excitement of bidding live is going to be less seen in the post-Covid world? I love the auction world; I was brought up in it. I was an auctioneer and have always found the excitement in the room intoxicating. For the buyer, it may be a time-consuming activity, but I still think that the physical experience is preferable. Timed auctions online are stressful: they rush at the end and you may not be able to get your bid in. If you were there in person, the auctioneer would see you trying to place a bid and would wait. There is Bina Goenka x Gemfields x WFG, Palm Earrings still an excitement of bidding live, but it will just be online or by phone with an auctioneer watching over. I believe you still need to see the jewels in person, or you need to have an unbiased opinion, which often isn’t easy to find. (I have, in fact, become part of Omnêque a website selling antique and vintage fine jewellery and every piece has been seen and vetted by me. It will soon also include gemstones.) The auction world this year has proven that people will still buy without seeing but, as the 100-carat white diamond recently showed, sometimes higher prices are not achieved. People have had time to slow down and consider what they read and whose advice they take and this new approach is reflected in jewellery sales: good jewels (signed jewels) and gemstones have done well, but large diamonds have not. What are some of the definitive fine-jewellery trends (in terms of design) can we expect world-over, after Covid 19? I don’t know… I don’t have a crystal ball! What I like to promote is real craftspeople and beautifully handcrafted jewels, whether they are antique or contemporary. Fine jewellery DiamonD WorlD | November-December 2020 | 69
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Page 21 and 22: editorial Dawn of a new Year The pa
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Page 66 and 67: The Rock Talk Espiègleries brooch,
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Page 72 and 73: Personality What I like to promote
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Diamond World (DW) November- December 2020

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