Diamond World (DW) November- December 2020

FOunDER: Late Vidya Vinod Kala 

Alok Kala 

Editor and Publisher 

Arpit Kala 

Associate Publisher 

Vijetha Rangabashyam 

Senior Editor 

Sugandha R 

Features Editor 

Cover: The Letlapa 

Tala Collection, 

Courtesy of Petra 

Diamonds 

Gunjan Jain 

Business & Marketing 

Dhananjay Kokate 

Graphic Designer 

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Vol. 48 # 1 • NoVEMBER-DECEMBER 2020 

Young Entrepreneurs of the 

Diamond Industry 

In The Young, We Trust 

The diamond industry in India is relatively new. The burgeoning of this 

cottage industry into a massive empire that significantly contributes to 

the country’s GDP is not something that happened by chance. Skilled 

intergenerational entrepreneurs, with their business acumen have built 

this industry, one polished stone at a time. Today, the future of this industry 

is on the shoulders of the Gen Next entrepreneurs, who have grown 

amidst the shine and brilliance of diamonds. Vijetha Rangabashyam and 

Sugandha R profile seven high-achieving, young entrepreneurs who have 

learnt the tricks of the trade from their predecessors and with their thirst 

for innovation, they are taking the industry forward with aplomb 

Owner : 

International Journal House 

Publisher and Printer: Alok Kala 

Printed at : 

Thomson Press India Ltd. Faridabad 

Published from : 

Journal House, 

A-95, Janta Colony, 

Jaipur 

32 | Cover Story

56 

56 | Special RepoRt 

10th Edition of JJS iJ 

JEwEllErS ChoiCE dESign 

IJ Awards Top Designs in a Grand 

Virtual Award Ceremony 

60 

68 

68 | peRSonality 

Joanna hardy, indEpEndEnt 

gEMMologiSt and 

JEwEllEry ExpErt 

Of Knowledge & Brilliance 

60 | in conveRSation 

riCha Singh, Md, 

natural diaMond CounCil 

Increasing Desirability of 

Diamonds, Every Step of the 

Way 

46 | Special FeatuRe 

trEaSurES froM 

thE royal ChESt 

Crown Fever! 

46 

76 

80 | haute JoailleRie 

louiS Vuitton 

StEllar tiMES 

Sky is NOT the Limit 

64 

76 | DeSign StuDio 

tatiana VErStraEtEn 

A New Star at Place 

Vendôme 

64 | the Rock talk 

hot trEndS 

Animal motifs, turquoise 

& Pantone shades 

80

editorial 

Dawn of 

a new Year 

The past year has been quite turbulent for many, the pandemic 

usurped many businesses and economies across the world; 

2020 has been challenging – to say the least. 

The year 2021 brings in new hope as the vaccine is out in 

the market and government is rolling out new plans to control spread of 

the virus. 

The diamond trade too has witnessed the rise of new leaders – young 

diamantaires under 30 have seen the world and are here to bring their 

best to the world of business. They infuse the industry with fresh hope 

and fresh ideas slated to take the industry to a new level. This issue delves 

into their achievements and promises that they bring to this industry. 

Natural Diamond Council comes back with renewed vigour and the 

fresh face of Ana De Armas, as its new brand ambassador. Along side 

we have a report about how BDB has allowed lab-grown diamonds to be 

traded in the Bourse. 

A special feature on challenges overcome by diamond exporters. A 

glimpse of winners of IJ Jewellers’ Choice Awards. The Rock Talk pages 

present how wildlife inspires beautiful jewellery; along with a detailed 

interview with Joanna Hardy who shares her brilliance and knowledge 

with our readers. 

This Diamond World issue is packed with everything that you wanted 

to know about the industry – its who’s who and latest happenings – take 

you on a whirlwind tour of the world of diamonds while keeping an ear to 

the ground. 

Let’s ring in the New Year filled with new light and shine. 

Editor 

Alok Kala 

DiamonD WorlD | November-December 2020 | 19

Round & About 

Rough & Mining 

ALRoSA hong Kong becomes a Member of 

Shanghai Diamond Exchange 

De Beers Announces 

Ambitious 2030 Goals 

to Build a Positive 

Lasting Impact for 

Communities and the 

Natural World 

in December 2020, De Beers 

announced 12 ambitious 

sustainability goals for 

the coming decade, including 

achieving gender parity throughout 

its workforce, supporting 10,000 

women entrepreneurs in its diamond 

producing partner countries and 

being carbon neutral within its own 

operations by 2030. 

The 12 goals are part of De Beers’ 

Building Forever framework – a 

sustainability approach embedded 

in the business’s commercial 

strategy and focused on maximising 

the positive impact of diamonds 

on their journey from discovery 

to retail. The goals are based 

around four pillars: leading ethical 

practices across industry; partnering 

for thriving communities; protecting 

the natural world; and accelerating 

equal opportunity. 

ALROSA Hong 

Kong Limited 

became a member 

of the Shanghai Diamond 

Exchange (SDE) and 

received more trading 

opportunities in mainland 

China. This membership 

provides a great advantage 

for direct trade in rough 

and polished diamonds in 

mainland China, as well as 

strengthens ties between 

ALROSA and SDE as part of 

the bilateral industry cooperation. “In 2020, demand for diamond 

jewelry in China increased. It is very important for ALROSA to 

have business here,” commented Evgeny Agureev, Deputy CEO 

of ALROSA. ALROSA has been present in China since 2005, 

while the first long-term agreement with Chinese jewelry retailer 

was signed in 2010. 

Mothae Recovers Exceptional 

101 Carat Diamond 

Lucapa Diamond Company Limited and its partner, the 

Government of the Kingdom of Lesotho announced the 

recovery of an exceptional 101 carat white diamond from 

the Mothae kimberlite diamond mine in Lesotho (“Mothae”). 

The diamond was measured by the Yehuda colorimeter as D 

in colour, Type IIa and 

is the 4th +100 carat 

diamond recovered 

from the southern 

lobe of the Mothae 

kimberlite pipe. 

20 | November-December 2020 | DiamonD WorlD

Round & About 

Rough & Mining 

De Beers and 

Diacore Partner 

in Purchase of 

5 Extraordinary 

Blue Diamonds 

The diamonds were 

discovered at the legendary 

Cullinan Diamond Mine, 

which, for over a century, has 

produced some magnificent gems 

and is the birthplace of the most 

famous diamond of all time, the 

Cullinan, that proudly sits within 

the British Crown Jewels. 

Diacore is an expert in cutting 

rare, exceptional gems, particularly 

coloured diamonds, and has 

partnered with De Beers Group 

previously on cutting the 203.04 

carat Millennium Star diamond. 

De Beers and Diacore will select 

expert craftsmen to study and work 

with the diamonds and ultimately 

unlock their natural beauty before 

they are presented to the public. 

Lucara Recovers 998 ct Diamond from 

Karowe Mine in Botswana 

Lucara Diamond Corp. announced recovery of an 

unbroken 998 carat high white clivage diamond from 

its 100% owned Karowe Diamond Mine located in 

Botswana. The diamond, measuring 67x49x45mm, was 

recovered from direct milling 

of ore sourced from the EM/ 

PK(S) unit of the South 

Lobe, and follows a notable 

series of diamond recoveries 

during this recent production 

run, including a number of 

top quality clivage and gem 

quality stones of 273, 105, 83, 

73, and 69 carats in weight. The EM/PK(S) forms an important 

economic driver for the proposed underground mine at Karowe 

and continues to produce large gem quality diamonds in line 

with expectations, a further testament to the strong resource 

performance at Karowe. 

Louis Vuitton buys Exceptional 549ct 

Diamond Sethunya from Lucara 

Sethunya was recovered unbroken from direct milling of 

ore sourced from the EM/PK(S) unit of the South Lobe 

of Lucara's 100% owned Karowe Mine in February 

2020. This agreement builds on 

the collaboration, announced in 

January, with Louis Vuitton and HB 

on the historic 1,758 carat Sewelô, 

Botswana's largest diamond, 

recovered from Karowe last year. 

Under the arrangement between 

Lucara, Louis Vuitton, and HB, the 

parties will collaborate and plan 

the creation of the highest value polished diamonds from the 

549 carat rough. 


POLISHED DIAMONDS 

Round & About 

Kunming Diamonds buys 

2.24ct Argyle Eternity in Rio 

Tinto's Recent Tender 

Lot Number 1, the 2.24 carat Argyle Eternity, the 

most valuable diamond in the collection and the most 

valuable Fancy Vivid diamond in the Tender’s 37 

year history, was sold to Hong Kong fancy coloured diamond 

specialist, Kunming Diamonds. Kunming Diamonds was also 

the successful bidder of other lots in the Tender. 

Ajay Maheshwari (Jakhotia) and Harsh Maheshwari of 

Kunming Diamonds said “It is an extraordinary opportunity 

and a privilege to be part of the history making Argyle diamond 

mine. We are humbled to be the custodians of these iconic 

rare jewels and are delighted to be part of their enduring 

legacy.” The 2020 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender was the 

penultimate showcase with a final Argyle Pink Diamonds 

Tender occurring in 2021, drawing upon the 2020 production 

from the now shuttered Argyle mine. 

Geneva Magnificent 

Jewels Live and 

Online Sale Totals 

$40 Million 

The Magnificent Jewels sale, 

which was held this season 

in a new adapted format, 

including a live hybrid and online 

component, achieved a total of 

CHF36,348,250 /$39,983,075, 

selling 89% by lot. The first online 

Magnificent Jewels Online sale 

from Geneva was very successful 

selling 89% of all lots and 100% 

by value, attracting over 1,500 

bids from around the globe. 


Round & About 

POLISHED DIAMONDS 

Dinesh Lakhani of Kiran Gems denies 

rumors of depletion of stocks 

Recently there have been 

various rumours in the 

market about KIRAN 

reducing the production of small 

sizes (-2, -6.5 and +6.5) and is 

seeing fast depletion of the stocks 

in them. The company vehemently 

likes to point out that this is 

absolutely incorrect, in fact, contrary 

to these rumours, it has increased 

its production in these sizes and 

is maintaining stable and healthy 

inventory levels. 

“Kiran has been the undisputed 

leader in smalls for years now. We 

truly appreciate and have harnessed 

the value of smalls as we have 

been at the forefront of investments 

in technology, processes and 

production skill to create a highly 

efficient set up over the years as the 

largest manufacturer of smalls. This 

has always been our core strength 

and we will continue to focus on it as 

our growth area going ahead along 

with growth in other sizes,” says 

Dinesh Lakhani, Director, Kiran 

Gems. 

In fact, as an additional measure 

to aid the customers to better plan 

their supplies, the company has 

introduced the “Make to Measure” 

facility in small sizes as well. Swift 

changing global scenarios are a part 

of the new normal, this has led to 

a clear shift in customer approach 

with more and more jewelry 

manufacturers preferring to partner 

with suppliers where consistent 

assortment along with reliability, 

trust, competitive pricing and timely 

delivery is ensured given the fact 

that primitive buying approach is 

fast becoming obsolete. 

“To further, deepen our 

commitment and focus on small 

sizes, KIRAN has introduced 3EXs, 

COLORLESS and H&A assortments 

- replete with Microscopic 

Assortment, Calibration and Just 

In Time turnaround - starting 

from as low as 0.6 mm size. This 

would substantially enhance the 

procurement efficiency for our 

customers,” adds Lakhani. 

Rare Purplish-red diamond sets World Record 

A 

rare rectangular-cut fancy 

purplish-red diamond 

ring of 1.05 carats, sold 

for $2.77 million – establishing 

a house and worldwide record of 

price per carat for a diamond of 

that color. 

The 1.05-carat fancy purplishred 

diamond with VS2 clarity 

was bought by ‘Tiara Gems and 

Jewellery DMCC’ company owned 

by Dubai-based Indian expat 

Ashish Vijay Jain. The stone is 

mounted on a platinum and gold 

ring flanked by two heart-shaped 

diamonds. 

According to Ashish Vijay Jain, 

the diamond was to go on display 

in his family’s jewellery store, 

which was under construction 

in November 2020 in the Gate 

Avenue mall at the Dubai 

International Financial Centre 

(DIFC). 


Round & About 

ASSoCIAtIon & trAdE BodIES 

Yes Bank to Support the Gem & Jewellery 

industry: Signs an MoU with GJEPC 

In a first of its kind collaboration, 

Yes Bank has signed an MoU 

with GJEPC to support the 

gem and jewellery industry. Colin 

Shah, Chairman, GJEPC and 

Avinash Chandra, Executive Vice 

President – Knowledge Banking 

Unit, Yes Bank singed the MoU 

in the presence of Ashok Gajera, 

Regional Chairman, Western 

region, GJEPC; Manish Jivani, 

Convener, MSME sub-committee, 

GJEPC; Sabysasachi Ray, ED, 

GJEPC; Mayank Rana, Executive 

Vice President and Zonal Sales 

Head - Merchant Acquisition, 

Yes Bank; Abhishek Agarwal, 

Executive Vice President and Head 

– Merchant Acquisition, Yes Bank. 

During the discussion, Yes Bank 

officials assured to come up with 

unique sector specific business 

products pertaining to Gold Metal 

Loans/ Credit Products/ Diamond 

accounts which could largely 

benefit the Gem and Jewelry 

Industry. Special emphasis was 

made on 2 such products POS 

machine with QR code payment 

option at retail outlets which could 

help customers in doing ease of 

business irrespective of the location 

and Credit Card with reward points 

which can be shared within the 

family and many more features 

which could benefit the Gem and 

Jewelry Industry. 

IIJS Premiere Postponed to August 2021 

GJEPC’s flagship show IIJS Premiere which takes 

place every year in the month of August had to be 

postponed to January 2021 due to the Coronavirus 

pandemic. However, since there is no clarity on when a 

show of this magnitude can be organised physically in the 

near future, GJEPC has decided to further postpone IIJS 

Premiere to August 2021. 

Colin Shah, Chairman, GJEPC, said, “Considering 

the sustained pandemic scenario, GJEPC has decided to 

move its flagship show - IIJS Premiere earlier postponed 

to January 2021 - further to August.” 


AssociATion & TrAde 

Bodies 

BdB Members say 

Yes to Trading of Labgrown 

diamonds 

The Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) members 

during the Annual General Meeting held 

yesterday, have in principle approved the 

trading of lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) within the 

BDB. However, members cannot start trading in 

LGDs just yet. The BDB Managing Committee will 

now draw up a set of guidelines to be followed by 

members who wish to trade in LGDs. 

Mehul Shah, Vice President, BDB, says, “The 

BDB members will have to adhere to a set of 

guidelines formed by the bourse’s management 

before they are allowed to trade in synthetic 

diamonds. The intention is to keep the two pipelines 

-- natural and lab-grown -- separate. The managing 

committee of BDB will now frame rules and 

guidelines on the same and decide the date from 

when members can start to deal in synthetics.”

AssociAtion & 

trADe BoDies 

DMCC’s Uptown Tower 

Reaches 150m 

DMCC – the world’s flagship Free 

Zone and Government of Dubai 

Authority on commodities trade 

and enterprise – has announced that 

the first phase of their Uptown Dubai 

district, Uptown Tower, has reached 

153m, with over 32 floors completed. 

Uptown Tower will stand at 340m 

once completed, and will feature 188 

luxury hotel rooms and suites, exclusive 

restaurants, extensive conference 

facilities, Grade A offices, and 229 

uniquely designed branded residences. 

Guided by a smart and sustainable 

construction strategy, Uptown Tower 

will be a LEED Gold Certified Building, 

and home to a state-of-the-art DMCC 

Business Hub. The hotel and branded 

residences fit-out packages have 

recently been awarded to Interiors 

International Industries LLC.

Round & About 

ASSOCIATIOn & TrADE BODIES 

Govt. Brings All Export Goods 

Under Duty & Tax Refunding 

Scheme, RoDTEP, From 1st 

January, 2021 

Taking a major step to boost 

exports, the Government 

of India has decided to 

extend the benefit of the Scheme 

for Remission of Duties and Taxes 

on Exported Products (RoDTEP) to 

all export goods with effect from 1st 

January, 2021. 

The RoDTEP scheme would 

refund to exporters the embedded 

Central, State and local duties/taxes 

that were so far not being rebated/ 

refunded. 

Silicon Valley’s Diamond Foundry 

Sets Up in DMCC 

DMCC – the world’s flagship Free Zone and Government 

of Dubai Authority on commodities trade and 

enterprise – has welcomed Silicon Valley’s Diamond 

Foundry as the latest member to join its growing community 

of laboratory-grown diamond (LGD) companies. To mark 

the occasion, a ribbon 

cutting ceremony was 

held at Almas Tower on 

Wednesday 25 November. 

Using their high-density 

plasma reactor, Diamond 

Foundry produce LGDs 

of quality levels unseen 

in mining and are the 

fastest scaling diamond 

grower in the world. The 

company is also the first 

zero-carbon-footprint 

producer of diamonds, and certified so, with all their LGDs 

created sustainably using hydropower. Their LGDs are used 

in both diamond jewellery and technological applications. 

The Israel Diamond Exchange and Bahrain Bourse Sign MOU 

The Bahraini Minister of Industry, Commerce and 

Tourism Mr. Zayed R. Alzayani, the CEO of the 

Bahrain Bourse Sheikh Khalifa bin Ebrahim 

Al-Khalifa and other high level government officials 

visited the Israel Diamond Exchange today to sign a 

Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) between the 

Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) and the Bahrain Bourse. 

This agreement comes after another historic event that 

took place at IDE this week with the inauguration of the 

representative office of the Dubai Multi-Commodities 

Center (DMCC), attended by Executive Chairman and 

CEO of the DMCC and the Dubai Diamond Bourse Mr. 

Ahmed Bin Sulayem. 


LAB & TeChNOLOGy 

Round & About 

GIA India Offers Knowledge Webinar on ‘November 

Birthstones: Topaz and Citrine’ 

GIA India organised the Knowledge 

Webinar ‘November Birthstones: 

Topaz and Citrine’ for members of 

the gem and jewellery trade across India. 

More than 60 participants attended this 

webinar to learn important information about 

the two birthstones for November. 

GIA India Instructor Vijay Parmar shared 

insights on the sources, history and quality 

factors of topaz and citrine. The webinar 

also presented information about laboratorygrown 

gems and simulants, along with a few 

care and cleaning tips. 


LAb & TeChnoLoGy 

GIA India Conducted 

Knowledge Webinar on 

‘Introduction to Laboratory- 

Grown Diamonds’ 

To continue sharing knowledge about 

laboratory-grown diamonds, GIA 

India organised the Knowledge 

Webinar ‘Introduction to Laboratory-Grown 

Diamonds’ for members of the gem and 

jewellery trade across India. More than 130 

participants attended this webinar to learn 

important information about laboratorygrown 

diamonds and GIA’s Laboratory- 

Grown Diamond Reports – LGDR by GIA. 

GIA India instructor Karan Kundra shared 

insights on different diamond types, their 

characteristics and the differences between 

natural and laboratory-grown diamonds. The 

instructor also spoke about the importance 

of disclosure and third-party grading and 

identification. In addition, the instructor 

shared information about GIA’s latest report, 

LGDR by GIA – a family of four new digitalonly 

reports for laboratory-grown diamonds 

with 4Cs color and clarity specifications 

replacing the descriptive terms and grade 

ranges previously used on GIA reports for 

laboratory-grown diamonds.

RETAIL & E-COMMERCE 

Round & About 

Indira Scott becomes 

Face of De Beers 

Group's Reset Collective 

Campaign 

Forevermark Launches 

with Fortofino in Gurugram 

Forevermark, the diamond brand from the De Beers 

Group, opens its first exclusive boutique in the 

city of Gurugram with authorized retail partner, 

Fortofino. Housed at the JMD Regent Arcade Mall, the 

Forevermark-Fortofino boutique offers customers the 

world’s most carefully selected and expertly crafted 

diamonds set in exquisite designs. 

With the launch of this boutique store in Gurugram, 

the Forevermark-Fortofino partnership has rendered 

a total of six stores, including 3 shop-in-shop stores, 

across the country that offer the most beautiful, rare, 

and responsibly sourced hallmark diamond jewellery. 

“The Gurugram store is our third exclusive boutique 

store in partnership with Forevermark,” said Sanjeev 

Saraf, CMD, Fortofino. 

De Beers Group is pleased to 

announce international model 

Indira Scott as the face of the 

company’s previously announced ReSet 

Collective campaign. Ms Scott has lent 

her natural beauty and passion for the 

environment to reveal the collection of 

five unique natural diamond pendants, 

which celebrate sustainability in the 

diamond sector and will be auctioned for 

charity by Sotheby’s. 

The ReSet Collective is comprised of 

five leading US jewelry designers – Jade 

Trau, Jennie Kwon, Julez Bryant, Sara 

Weinstock and Zoë Chicco – who visited 

Botswana late last year to witness firsthand 

the positive impact that diamonds 

discovered by De Beers’ joint venture 

partnership, Debswana, help create for 

the people and wildlife of Botswana. 


Cover Story 


Cover Story 

Young Entrepreneurs of the Diamond Industry 

In the Young, 

We Trust 

The diamond industry in 

India is relatively new. The 

burgeoning of this cottage 

industry into a massive empire 

that significantly contributes to the 

country’s GDP is not something 

that happened by chance. Skilled 

intergenerational entrepreneurs, 

with their business acumen have 

built this industry, one polished 

stone at a time. Today, the future 

of this industry is on the shoulders 

of the Gen Next entrepreneurs, 

who have grown amidst the shine 

and brilliance of diamonds. 

Vijetha Rangabashyam and 

Sugandha R profile seven highachieving, 

young entrepreneurs 

who have learnt the tricks of the 

trade from their predecessors and 

with their thirst for innovation, 

they are taking the industry 

forward with aplomb 


Cover Story 

Ankit Shah, Director, Ankit Gems 

Indian diamond 

traders who are 

only into domestic 

business are yet 

to recover their 

losses. The crisis 

has taught us to be 

cautious and take 

calculated risks. 

One has to check 

leverage ratio. 

Opportunities 

also turn up, but 

you need to have 

the means to grab 

such opportunities 

and be patient 

and take adequate 

caution in 

managing finances 

For almost 40 years now, Ankit Gems 

has pioneered in manufacturing 

some of the world’s finest diamonds. 

The company was established by 

Arvind Shah, Arun Shah and Dilip 

Shah with a vision to be a global player 

distinguished for value creation, enabled 

by an extensively developed supply 

chain, right from sourcing of rough to 

manufacturing to distribution of quality 

polished diamonds. With that vision 

and a steadfast approach to achieving 

the same, today Ankit Gems has grown 

into an empire that employs thousands of 

employees world over. 

The leadership is now being held by 

a set of highly qualified youngsters who 

are steering the company based on the 

strong founding principles. Ankit Shah, 

is a young thought leader, who not only 

leads the company with what he has 

learnt from his predecessors but also 

his own vision for the company. “At the 

start, like all industries, the diamond 

industry was badly affected. We belong 

to luxury segment and during crisis, 

luxury spending is something not many 

people want to undertake. The only 

silver lining was that – the two biggest 

markets, China and America had Covid 

at different times. So demand was coming 

from markets where Covid numbers were 

receding,” says Ankit Shah. 

Cling on to the silver lining 

Many exporters bounced back as strong 

demand came from China and U.S. 

“Indian diamond traders who are only 

into domestic business – are yet to 

recover their losses. The crisis has taught 

us to be cautious and take calculated 

risks. One has to check leverage ratio. 

Opportunities also turn up, but you 

need to have the means to grab such 

opportunities and be patient and take 

adequate caution in managing finances,” 

he adds. 

The power of human resource 

However hard the situation was going to 

be, the company right from the beginning 

decided not to lay off workers, as staff is 

always considered family at Ankit Gems. 

Providing the best work atmosphere 

and taking care of their employees have 

been the cornerstones of the company. 

“During March we paid two months’ 

salary together – because we thought 

they will need the money when they are 

facing lockdown. Today, our employees 

feel more motivated and put in the best 

efforts when required. Our staff has 

always turned up for work whenever 

required and we too ensured that we 

follow all the Covid-specific norms 

suggested by the government.” 


Cover Story 

Ashish Doshi, Partner, Oopal Diamond 

Unlike many diamond companies 

that have been in the business for 

generations, Oopal Diamond is relatively 

a new entrant. The company began its 

journey in 1999 under the leadership 

of Shashikant Doshi. Since then, over 

the last 2 decades the company has 

become one of the foremost leaders in 

diamond manufacturing. Today, Ashish 

Doshi, a completely self taught second 

generation entrepreneur is leading the 

company in the direction of success. 

About the current situation, Asish Doshi 

says, “Covid for sure has woken us up to 

know that one cannot take anything for 

granted.Practically nothing works at our 

will – despite all meticulous planning and 

vision, the world was caught off guard.We 

too have taken one day at a time.” 

Safety first 

Rising above this challenge, putting 

safety of its staff is the topmost concern 

for Oopal. “We have striven harder to 

sustain, hold on and sail through to our 

eventual destination. It’s beyond business 

for us, 20 years and counting – my father 

sowed, toiled endlessly two decades back, 

persevered for perfection and of course we 

have achieved the impossible – now, it’s 

time to sow again,” says Ashish. 

Starting over again 

The pandemic has pushed diamond 

business back to the time, where each one 

is working hard to find newer solutions 

and rise above this adversity. “One day 

at a time, identify and resolve -- everyday 

is a new challenge arising from this 

pandemic, yet thankfully we have risen 

above it gradually. It is a consolidated 

effort. We have held on to all our staff with 

zero pay cuts or job cuts – we need them 

and they need us, without them we are 

nothing ,” says Ashish. 

Staff matters 

For its artisans and workers, the 

company has provided accommodation, 

so as to eliminate unnecessary travel and 

safety. “For managers who have their 

own vehicles they have been permitted 

to travel to work. For people who cannot 

work from home, conveyance has been 

provided. We have put advertising and 

marketing on hold for now. For businesses 

we are shipping goods across on memo 

to adhere to contactless work at least 

between companies. Designers, creative 

heads and all those who need not be in 

factories or offices have been permitted to 

work from home, ever since.” 

Overcoming new challenges 

“I have been actively paying attention to 

all areas.One is in for a challenge every 

hour and we have to be ready for all of 

it.It’s not about me anymore.It’s about us. 

It was tough to accept the inevitable.” The 

change of style, thought and compassion 

was much required to accept each and 

everyone’s situation which may not be 

the case for our own self at that moment. 

“Putting away our own personal and 

business gains, we have placed customer 

first next the staff.” 

Everyday is a new 

challenge arising 

from this pandemic, 

yet thankfully we 

have risen above 

it gradually. It is a 

consolidated effort. 

We have held on 

to all our staff with 

zero pay cuts or job 

cuts – we need them 

and they need us, 

without them we are 

nothing 


Cover Story 

Samveg Shah, Partner, Venus Jewel 

The focus in these 

unprecedented 

times has been to 

serve customers 

across the globe 

through even better 

technology. We 

have always had 

an online presence 

and our customers 

buy from us online 

and our mobile 

app. Additionally, 

during this time we 

also learnt how to 

virtually portray 

a diamond to the 

end consumer who 

needs a reputable 

company to trust 

online 

With a humble beginning in the 

late 60s, Venus Jewel has set 

an example when it comes to crafting 

the finest of diamonds in the world, 

each of them known for their brilliance. 

The company under the guidance of 

its founders Sevantilal and Ramniklal 

Shah, has set a remarkable standard 

for quality, service and transparency. 

Carrying forward the baton with the same 

principles is a third generation partner, 

Samveg Shah, an alumnus of Gurukulam 

– an unparalleled education system 

of India that is valued for its unique 

approach throughout the world. 

At the tender age of 20, he joined 

the business and learnt the art of 

crafting diamonds with his own hands. 

Today, under the guidance of his uncle 

he looks after the Sales & Marketing 

Department in Mumbai. He brings in 

fresh & innovative ideas along-with 

sales strategies that benefit not only the 

company and its customers but also the 

stakeholders. 

Time, manpower, finance and all 

the factors of production need to be 

managed well in order to overcome 

any challenging scenario – and the 

pandemic has undoubtedly presented 

many such instances. “As far as resource 

management is concerned; we created 

a careful roaster for presence in office 

on a rotational basis. The rest of our 

staff was working and coordinating from 

home. Apart from this, we maintained a 

seamless customer service throughout 

this period as 60 per cent of our business 

was always online. Transparent business 

practices help us maintain and enhance 

online sales. Hidden in every adversity 

lies an opportunity, astute businessmen 

tap such opportunities quickly and act 

upon them,” says Samveg Shah. Social 

distancing norms were maintained 

across the organisation. 

Owning up to tough times 

For marketing and advertising, there 

was a shift to virtual platforms like 

social media and digital marketing. 

Adaptability is a virtue which the 

diamond industry has understood well 

in this pandemic. “The focus in these 

unprecedented times has been to serve 

customers across the globe through even 

better technology. We have always had 

an online presence and our customers 

buy from us online at www.venusjewel. 

com and our mobile app. Additionally, 

during this time we also learned how 

to virtually portray a diamond to the 

end consumer who needs a reputable 

company to trust online. ” 

Venus Jewel decided to offer additional 

flexibility in serving customer’s needs. 

The company offered extensions in its 

loyalty schemes to not let customers 

be affected by the reduction in their 

business volumes. It is this “customer 

first” policy that has made Venus Jewel 

one of top diamond manufacturing 

companies in the world. 


Cover Story 

Simoni Shah, Head of Management, 

JB And Brothers 

The company was established in 

1973 and has been a sightholder 

for the past 6-7 years. Simoni joined 

the company about five years ago. 

She started giving her inputs to sales, 

marketing and overall management of 

the unit, along with other members of her 

family. The company was established by 

her father’s elder brother Jitubhai Shah 

and later, her uncles Shailesh Shah and 

Vijay Shah and father Sanjay Shah joined 

the business. “My elder uncle had a fair 

share of struggle during the initial days 

when he had founded the business, later 

his brothers joined in and all together 

they brought business up to current level. 

It has been the result of dedicated effort 

and team-spirit shown by all members of 

the family,” Simoni informs. 

She joined the business after 

completion of her Masters in Commerce 

and Finance and felt that diamond 

business was her calling in life. She 

had been brought up in an environment 

dedicated to diamond business and 

the aesthetics, and the whole business 

structure and its challenges intrigued 

her greatly. She knew she could make a 

good contribution to the family business 

and therefore chose to join it. Simoni 

takes inspiration from her uncle Shri 

Jitendrabhai Shah for business and is 

inspired by her mother’s compassion 

when it comes to day to day conduct. 

During this pandemic a lot of 

digitalization happened within the 

company. “Our industry has understood 

the importance of online medium 

and ecommerce. We have learnt that 

sustainable business model has to be 

adopted. We had to train our staff how to 

approach customers online, and taught 

them to deal via the digital mode,” 

informs Simoni. 

Proffering Togetherness 

“We paid attention to difficulties of our 

staff and motivated them to stay positive 

and overcome business challenges well. 

We believe in coordinating with our staff, 

even they understand the challenges 

involved and together we resolve every 

situation ,” she explains. 

Financial resources need to be 

managed with a lot of caution and 

cognizance. “We have always paid 

attention to this fact. Those businesses 

which have taken excess loans and 

overdrafts will find it difficult to book 

profits despite the rise in diamond 

prices and good business – because 

a lot of their revenues will be spent in 

repaying loans,” informs this astute 

young businesswoman. Government has 

laid down strict norms when it comes to 

human resource management. “We have 

to take to be take responsibility of their 

health and wellbeing in addition to doing 

business. So we adhered to all of the 

norms meticulously and did not face any 

difficulty on that front,” she adds. 

We paid attention 

to difficulties of our 

staff and motivated 

them to stay positive 

and overcome 

business challenges 

well. We believe in 

coordinating with 

our staff, even they 

understand the 

challenges involved 

and together we 

resolve every 

situation 


Cover Story 

Priyal Shankar, Director – IT 

& Marketing, Shivam Jewels 

I am heading digital 

transformation and 

we ensured that the 

speed at which this 

transformation was 

brought about is 

smooth and effective. 

We invested good 

amount in digital 

infrastructure 

and boosted our 

marketing efforts. 

We developed many 

new features on our 

Digital infrastructure 

to make our virtual 

presence userfriendly 

Priyal Shankar heads the IT and 

marketing side of Shivam Jewels, 

for the last five years. Ashwin Shankar 

his older cousin looks after sales and 

marketing for the company. The company 

is an offshoot of Shivam Exports started 

by Ghanshyam Shankar in 1995, Priyal’s 

father, who worked as a bank accountant 

before venturing into this line of business. 

“My grandfather was a farmer, and so 

my father worked hard to start his own 

business – he initially worked with similar 

companies and picked up the nuances of 

diamond export business during these 

stints.” Consistency and commitment 

to excellence are the constants with 

which Shivam Jewels operates – often as 

companies and their clientele diversifies, 

older clients, brokers tend to get sidelined. 

The company pays attention to the fact 

that none of its long standing associates 

feel that way. “We are committed to our 

work and our clients. Each person is 

important for business.” explains Priyal. 

Tech Savvy 

Speaking about digital interface, “The 

pandemic we have gone that extra mile to 

ensure that customers get what they see 

on their screens – in terms of quality, this 

has helped us retain existing clientele and 

increase it as well,” informs Priyal. 

Leadership, team-spirit and customer 

relations come easily to Priyal as he 

has done his Masters in International 

Business with a specialization in Data 

analysis and therefore brings in both 

technological prowess and effective New 

Age business management principles to 

make Shivam Jewels shine forth amidst a 

gamut of diamond exporters in India. 

Maneuvering Challenges 

In the first month when restrictions in 

Mumbai were strict – Shivam Jewels 

had begun its operations already from its 

unit in Surat, and later on slowly as the 

restrictions were lifted they started their 

manufacturing operations. “There we 

observed all social distancing norms and 

adequate sanitization, etc. and started 

production full-fledged – just as we used 

to work in Mumbai. This helped us save 

time,” recalls Priyal. 

“Customers had started demanding 

goods – thereafter we balanced operations 

in Surat and Mumbai. The restrictions in 

Surat also were high later. In their Mumbai 

office they ensured that all diamonds that 

they displayed on their website had all 

the minute details and were dispatched 

to the customers on time and accurate as 

per their demand by this we established a 

lot of trust – “we made our working much 

more transparent so our customers were 

very happy,” beams Priyal. 

Digital Transformation 

“I am heading digital transformation 

totally and we ensured that the speed 

at which this transformation was 

brought about smoothly and effectively. 

We invested good amount in digital 

infrastructure and boosted our marketing 

efforts. We developed many new features 

on our Digital infrastructure to make our 

virtual presence user-friendly . Our focus 

while in the lockdown was to build all over 

digital platform which would connect our 

Online and Offline operations, to make 

sure our customers find it seamless to buy 

diamonds from Shivam Jewels,” informs 

the young diamantaire. 


Cover Story 

Urmil Gajera, Director Business Development, 

Wholesale Jewellery, Laxmi Diamond 

Laxmi Diamond was established in 

1972. Its business operations span 

the world of diamonds from rough to 

retail. Laxmi Diamond is the flagship 

company of the Laxmi Diamond Group. 

Headquartered in Mumbai, the company 

has its presence around the world 

including customers in United States, 

Europe, Middle-east and Far-east. 

The company’s continued emphasis on 

state-of-the-art factories, highly skilled 

personnel operating the very latest 

technology and implementation of quality 

control systems has resulted in efficient 

production. These high standards have 

been intrinsic to achieving the quality 

reputation now expected of Laxmi the 

world over. 

Customer-centric Philosophy 

“The success of Laxmi Diamond can 

be attributed to our customer-centric 

philosophy, the quality standards we 

maintain, the meticulous manufacturing 

skills of our employees and fair trading 

practices which we actualize throughout 

the world. This in combination with 

our core family values ensures a loyal 

customer base all over the globe,” 

informs Urmil Gajera who joined the 

business in 2018. He has completed 

his Bachelors in Mass Media and 

Communications from the University of 

Washington and Masters in Management 

from Imperial College, London. He also 

worked with an advertising company – 

in order to hone his skills in branding 

and advertising before joining his 

family business. Currently he heads the 

Diamond Jewellery Wholesale business 

for Laxmi Diamond. 

“Our journey began in Surat back in 

1972 with just four polishing wheels. 

Today, we are a global company that 

employs over 5000 people and operates 

throughout the entire diamond pipeline, 

from rough to retail,” maintains the 

young diamantaire. 

Embracing New Normal 

Covid has made the diamond industry 

rethink its strategy for revenue stream. 

For marketing and advertising, there was 

a shift to virtual platforms like Social 

Media and digital marketing. The focus 

in these unprecedented times has been 

to serve customers across the globe 

through even better technology. “The 

industry knew that if it had to remain 

connected with the industry, it had to 

discover accurate, speedy and effective 

means of communication across the 

globe. People are now investing more on 

digital platforms to sell, advertise and 

reach new customers,” opines Urmil, 

who draws inspiration from his father 

Ashok Gajera when it comes to business 

acumen. 

“During Covid crisis our biggest 

challenge was getting our staff to come 

to work. Our industry requires manual 

labour but we had to ensure safety of 

our staff. For this, we created two shifts 

of work, we relocated back end staff to 

a new office space and installed safety 

equipment to avoid Covid-19 infection. 

With all precautionary measures we 

began work and situation improved day 

by day,” he recalls. 

The success 

of Laxmi 

Diamond can be 

attributed to our 

customer-centric 

philosophy, the 

quality standards 

we maintain, 

the meticulous 

manufacturing 

skills of our 

employees and fair 

trading practices 

which we actualize 

throughout the 

world. This in 

combination with 

our core family 

values ensures a 

loyal customer base 

all over the globe 


Cover Story 

We strive to 

overcome every 

problem with sheer 

determination. 

We hold onto our 

positivity. We do 

not allow negative 

feedback to affect 

our mindset. We 

have to train our 

mind to focus on the 

solution and not on 

the problem 

Shreyans Dholakia, Director, 

Shree Ramkrishna Exports 

For over 55 years, Shree 

Ramkrishna Exports, with 

its able leaders, staff and sound 

principles, has reached the pinnacle 

of the diamond industry. Shreyans 

Dholakia, a second generation 

entrepreneur, has been a custodian 

of the brand that stands for Honesty, 

Transparency and Integrity. He leads 

the Marketing and Technology team 

with his fresh vision and approach. 

In 2010, when he began his stint at 

the company, he wanted SRK to be 

completely digitally enabled and 

today, a majority of the business is 

garnered online. 

It has been one of the slowest 

periods for the industry. Business 

uncertainty is much more as compared 

to the previous years. “Diamond is a 

luxurious product, people spend on 

diamonds when they are really happy 

and when they have a lot of money at 

their disposal. If the stock market is 

on an upward trend and there is an 

occasion coming up – people invest 

in diamond jewellery. Economic 

volatility can’t be the only reason 

for this downfall in business. It’s the 

shift in the mindset of consumers that 

is also affecting the business,” says 

Shreyans. 

“Problem is Progress” 

Whenever there is a challenge, SRK 

has always believed in looking at it as 

an opportunity for growth. “We strive 

to overcome every problem with sheer 

determination. We hold onto our 

positivity. We do not allow negative 

feedback to affect our mindset. We 

have to train our mind to focus on 

the solution and not on the problem. 

Generic marketing is missing the 

target. All this while De Beers was 

spending a lot of money on marketing 

because they had a majority share in 

the market, now times have changed,” 

says Shreyans. 

Rooted in Tradition & 

Technology 

One of the main reasons for SRK’s 

success is its ability to evolve with 

time and constantly adapt to the 

changing scenarios. In the same 


Cover Story 

spirit, Shreyans firmly believes in 

sticking to the roots. SRK is a very 

traditional company in that sense. 

“We have developed our business 

from B2B to B2C with ecommerce. 

Our B2B customers, if they are not 

buying diamonds, they are buying 

something from Amazon. We thought 

why not bring the same features to 

our business. So our B2B portal has 

all the features that a B2C portal has. 

For the last 100 years, diamond as 

a product has been the same, so the 

only way we can bring about change 

is through service,” adds Shreyans. 

The diamond industry thrives on 

Transparency and Honesty. “Our 

integrity and effective communication 

works best. I have been a part of this 

industry since childhood. We are 

always learning. We believe in being 

honest and rest is up to God. If you 

have to grow your business from one 

generation to another, you have to 

stick to your words.” 

Embracing Challenges with 

Grace 

Natural diamond industry will rise 

above challenges posed by all kinds 

of artificial or lab-grown diamonds. 

But it is a wakeup call for the natural 

diamond industry. “Lab-grown 

diamonds are a reality of the day, we 

need to accept it as another category. 

It is not a challenge for the diamond 

industry, but it probably will compete 

with Swarovski. We need these kinds 

of challenges for us to grow and 

learn to fight all kinds of odds. Only 

because of such categories, we are 

looking at a more robust marketing 

strategy.” 

I have been a part 

of this industry 

since childhood. 

We are always 

learning. We 

believe in being 

honest and rest is 

up to God. If you 

have to grow your 

business from 

one generation to 

another, you have 

to stick to your 

words 


Special Feature 

Treasures from the Royal Chest 

Crown Fever! 

After Netflix’s release of the 4th Season of The Crown, we can’t stop 

thinking about the exceptionality of some of the most jaw-dropping 

British crown jewels. From Princess Di’s blue sapphire ring to many of 

the extraordinary pieces in diamonds and handpicked, rare, precious 

stones, here are some of our favourites 

The Queen Mary Fringe Tiara 

The Queen Mary Fringe Tiara, has been the ‘something 

borrowed’, jewellery, since the time, Queen Elizabeth 

married Philip Mountbatten in 1947. It had been given to her 

by Queen Mary, who received the necklace from her mother 

in law. The tiara, was customised by royal jeweller Garrard 

to Queen Mary’s liking. It was made into a kokoshnik-style 

piece, consisting of 47 graduated brilliant and rose-set 

tapering bars, separated by 46 narrower spikes, which could 

still be removed to make a necklace. Recently, the Queen 

loaned the piece to her granddaughter, Princess Beatrice of 

York, for her intimate wedding to Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi. 



The Queen Mary 

Diamond Bandeau Tiara 

This diamond and platinum bandeau 

tiara is formed as a flexible band of 

eleven sections, pavé set with large and 

small brilliant diamonds in a geometric 

design. The centre is set with a detachable 

brooch of ten brilliant diamonds. The 

centerpiece was originally a sapphire, 

which was later changed to diamond. 

The tiara was made in 1932 for the 

Queen’s grandmother, Queen Mary, and 

specifically designed to accommodate the 

centre brooch. 

Princess D’s 

Blue Sapphire 

Ring 

A 

gorgeous 12-carat 

oval Ceylon sapphire 

surrounded with 14 solitaire 

diamonds set in 18-karat 

white gold, it is believed 

that Princess Diana 

herself chose this ring 

from Garrard’s collection, 

as it reminded her of her 

mother’s engagement ring. 

At the time, it cost Prince 

Charles $60,000, though, 

it’s now worth more than 

$500,000. 

The Delhi Durbar 

Tiara 

This tiara was made for 

Queen Mary to wear to the 

Delhi Durbar on 12 December 

1911, a ceremonial gathering 

which marked King George V’s 

succession as King Emperor of 

India. The tiara was originally 

surmounted by 10 large 

emeralds to match the suite of 

diamond and emerald jewellery 

which Queen Mary had made 

to wear at the Delhi Dubar. 



Queen Mary’s Art Deco 

Emerald Choker 

Created from a gift of emeralds from the Ladies 

of India in 1911, this choker was created in 

the Art Deco style by Garrard in 1921 for Queen 

Mary. The Art Deco choker was passed to Queen 

Elizabeth. In 1981, the Queen gave the necklace 

as a wedding gift, as a lifetime loan, to Lady Diana 

Spencer when she married the Prince of Wales. The 

most famous appearance of Queen Mary’s Art Deco 

Emerald Choker was in 1985, when the Princess 

of Wales wore the piece as a bandeau across her 

forehead for a dance in Melbourne during a Tour of 

Australia. 

Burmese Ruby 

Necklace and Tiara 

Garrard received the 

commission in 1973, from 

Queen Elizabeth to make a pair of 

tiara and necklace from the rubies 

she was gifted from the People of 

Burma at her wedding. The tiara 

was crafted with 96 rubies, and 

the people of Burma believed that 

rubies, because of their protective 

power, could protect the Queen 

from 96 illnesses. 

Williamson Diamond Brooch 

The central stone of this flowershaped 

brooch is considered 

one of the finest pink diamonds ever 

discovered. It was presented to The 

Queen as a wedding present in 1947 

by the Canadian geologist and royalist, 

Dr. John Thorburn Wililamson. The 

Queen had the stone cut and set into 

this brooch in 1953. 



The Cullinan 

Heart Diamond 

Brooch 

The central stone in this 

heart-shaped brooch - 

Cullinan V - weighs 18.8 

metric carats. The brooch 

was originally worn by 

Queen Mary as part of the 

suite of jewellery made 

for the Delhi Durbar in 

1911. The Queen inherited 

the brooch in 1953. The 

centrepiece was cut from 

the largest diamond ever 

found – the 3,106 carat 

Cullinan. It is one of a 

number of jewels that 

were cut from the Cullinan 

diamond, which was three 

times larger than any stone 

previously discovered when 

it was mined in Pretoria in 

South Africa in 1905. 

The Coronation 

Necklace 

This magnificent suite of 

necklace and earrings was 

worn by The Queen for her 

coronation in 1953. Originally 

made for Queen Victoria, the 

necklace and earrings were 

also worn at the coronations 

(as Queen’s Consort) of Queen 

Alexandra in 1902 (without 

the earrings), Queen Mary in 

1911 and Queen Elizabeth 

in 1937. The 22.48 carat 

diamond pendant is known as 

the Lahore Diamond and was 

presented to Queen Victoria in 

1851. 

The Persian 

Turquoise Suite 

Created by Garrard, this 

set of turquoise jewels 

was given by Queen Mary 

to the Queen Mother as 

a wedding gift. The tiara 

includes many symbolic 

motifs, including true lover’s 

knots, lamps of love, and 

triumphal wreaths of laurel. 

The set includes a tiara, a 

necklace, earrings, and a 

brooch. 



Gems & Jewellery Exports 

Industry Gleans 

more Exports; Positive for 

a Better Tomorrow 

India has been the birthplace of some of the world’s best cut and 

polished diamonds. Today, despite the pandemic and the strict 

lockdown, diamond export is improving – however, different product 

types show different levels of improvement 



Exports are down. We are getting enquiries from clients. 

Clients aren’t able to visit and examine the jewellery in real 

time and so we are not able to convert clients into that many 

actual sales. We aren’t too comfortable with conducting 

business virtually, but the first quarter of 2021 will be good 

ashish Kotawala, GDK Jewels Pvt Ltd 

Covid19 has had an impact on 

global business and thereby 

Indian economy has suffered 

huge losses. The gems and jewellery 

business is trying its best to book best 

profits – and work doubly hard to rise to 

its pre-Covid profit levels. 

a Good November 

Exports of gems and jewellery from 

India, which polishes about 90 per cent 

of the world’s rough diamonds, showed 

a sharp recovery in November. This 

has undoubtedly provided relief to an 

industry inflicted by the coronavirus 

pandemic. Overseas shipments fell 

about 4per cent from a year earlier to 

$2.48 billion, compared with a 99per 

cent plunge at the start of the financial 

year in April, according to the Gem & 

Jewellery Export Promotion Council. It 

was also milder than the 19per cent to 

40per cent decline in the prior three 

months. However, from November, as 

many as 90per cent of the industry’s 

workers have come back as business 

has recovered in the key manufacturing 

cities of Surat, Jaipur and Mumbai. 

Still, the industry is not out of the 

woods and business is expected to 

come back to its pre-Covid level only 

once there is a successful vaccine in 

place. The Indian government needs to 

reduce import taxes on cut and polished 

diamonds and precious metals to aid 

the recovery. Exports during April to 

November were 44per cent lower at 

$11.43 billion, and India may ship as 

much as $9 billion over the remaining 

months of the financial year. That would 

result in exports for the year falling by 

as much as 31per cent from a year ago. 

Good run for Small-ticket 

Diamond Jewellery 

Especially at a time when the whole 

world has been affected by the pandemic, 

key concern for the governments of all 

countries is healthcare and preventing 

spread of the virus. Owing to which 

every country outdid itself in imposing 

travel bans including cargo flights as 

well. 

This has adversely affected exports 

of diamonds all over the world. Informs 

Ashish Kotawala of GDK Jewels 

Pvt Ltd,“Exports are down. We are 

getting enquiries from clients. We 

do preliminary work over whatsapp 

and videocalls. We are into high end 

jewellery. Clients aren’t able examine 

jewellery in real time and so we are 

not able to convert clients that many 



actual sales.” Many businesses aren’t 

getting new clients. “We aren’t too 

comfortable with conducting business 

virtually. The first quarter of 2021 will 

be good,” explains Kotawala. While 

Viral Kothari of Kosha Fine Jewels, 

says, “The only hindrance we are facing 

is – delays in logistics. Customs is the 

biggest challenge. Shipments are not 

being released – the logistics is a big 

challenge. Uncertain flights schedule is 

affecting business adversely.” 

In case of smaller products however, 

demand is better than last years. 

“Export orders are good because we 

are into small ticket items. Month to 

month comparison reveals that we are 

at 120 per cent compared to last year. 

In Europe, USA and pan- India we 

are doing well. Eternity bands, circle 

of love, finger rings, are doing well. 

The New Year season has increased 

demand,” informs Kothari. 

Macro policies – Need of the 

Hour 

GJEPC maintains: The successful 

formulation of an e-commerce policy 

will herald the dawn of a new era for the 

Indian gem and jewellery industry. This 

move opens up a world of possibilities 

especially for MSMEs, as it will give 

them a level playing field to begin 

exports directly to global consumers. 

The move reflects the GJEPC’s allembracing 

and inclusive approach to 

push for progressive reforms that will 

help the industry achieve its longterm 

vision to become the epicentre for 

worldwide gems and jewellery needs. 

With a Central Government that is all 

geared up to facilitate e-commerce for 

the gem and jewellery industry, the 

sky’s the limit! 

“Policy change assures ease in 

doing business – it cannot guarantee 

a major escalation in profits. Business 

improves because of personal will and 

demand-supply equation,” explains 

Vipul Sutariya of Dharmanandan 

Diamonds Pvt Ltd. Indian government 

is supportive of the G & J business. All 

the same explains Sanjay Shah of Gold 

Getting our life back to normal is a long process. Business 

will improve gradually. It is a catch-22 situation – because 

every country will recover in terms of health, travel 

provisions, vaccine status etc at different times. As our 

business is more digital – sales has improved from July; 

probably by March 2021 we may procure good sales numbers 

Nilesh chhabria, Finestar Jewellery & Diamond Pvt, Ltd. 



Star Jewellery Pvt. Ltd.,“Export orders 

are coming from the USA. Internet is 

surely a way out – but real business 

takes place in real time and that is 

something that cannot be done during 

this crisis time, so we have to wait and 

make do with whatever we have.” 

At the same time, efforts of GJEPC 

are surely important for welfare of G&J 

business: Gem & Jewellery Export 

Promotion Council (GJEPC), in the past 

few years, has been actively pursuing 

projects and policies that could lead to 

a manifold increase in India’s outbound 

gem and jewellery trade. 

Aligning with the Prime Minister 

Shri Narendra Modi’s vision of making 

the smallest of towns and villages 

active participants in the country’s 

export efforts, the Council undertook 

a Herculean data-driven approach to 

identify areas that are actively engaged 

in the manufacture of gems and 

jewellery. 

Taking the cue from PM’s vision, in 

2019, the GJEPC commissioned the 

National Council of Applied Economic 

Research (NCAER) to evaluate these 

key industry characteristics, its 

competitiveness, and its employment 

potential. 

The pioneering Cluster Mapping 

study has identified 390 districts as gem 

and jewellery clusters. It also provides 

crucial data on the region-specific 

specialisations in gem and jewellery 

categories, the skills and technology 

used, supply chains, and contribution 

to the economy. The Council is now 

focused on transforming each of these 

clusters into self-actualised export 

hubs. 

As exhibitions are 

cancelled we are 

facing difficulties in 

conducting business. 

People want to 

examine jewellery 

closely in real time, 

they would not want 

to place large orders 

for high-end jewellery 

over the internet – that 

is a cause for concern 

Sanjay Shah, 

Gold Star Jewellery 

Pvt. Ltd. 

Overall business is improving.Demand from American 

market is improving as they have ample of money which is 

unspent because of the global lockdown. Plus their stimulus 

package is good – so they have surplus funds – which they 

want to invest in jewellery 

Vipul Sutariya, Dharmanandan Diamonds Pvt Ltd 



Export orders are good because we are into small ticket 

items. Month on month comparison reveals that we are 

at 120 per cent compared to last year. In Europe, USA 

and pan- India we are doing well. Eternity bands, circle 

of love, finger rings, are doing well. 

Viral Kothari, Kosha Fine Jewels 

Shows must go on 

Explains Kotawala, “When we used 

to have physical shows, we were able 

to display our high-end diamond 

jewellery -- clients used to examine 

fine jewellery and place orders. That 

kind of thing is missing at present. We 

are supplying to local stores in North 

India, as markets are opening.” The 

situation has improved over the last 

nine months, but there is surely more 

scope for improvement. Not many are 

comfortable buying high-end diamonds 

over the internet or even after seeing 

it over Whatsapp etc,” informs Nilesh 

Chhabria, Finestar. The upcoming 

show which is scheduled in Vegas 

in June also may get postponed. “As 

our business is more digital – sales 

has improved from July; probably by 

March 2021 we may procure good sales 

numbers,” surmises Chhabria. 

As exhibitions are cancelled 

many diamond exporters are facing 

difficulties in conducting business. 

People want to examine jewellery 

closely in real time, they would not want 

to place large orders for high-end goods 

over the internet – that is a cause for 

concern. But currently, nothing can be 

done about it. “So we are adjusting in 

the best way we can. We have to reach 

out to our clients over the internet,” 

explains Sanjay Shah. 

Going the e-route 

Considering the exponential growth 

in online sales during the pandemic, 

GJEPC has been relentlessly pursuing 

for an e-Commerce policy with 

Department for Promotion of Industry 

and Internal Trade (DPIIT) and the 

Ministry of Commerce & Industry 

(MoC&I), and officials across various 

Government departments. 

A revamped e-commerce policy will 

help thousands of manufacturers and 

lakhs of retailers across the 390 G & J 

clusters in India to utilise e-commerce 

platforms and reach out directly to 

overseas consumers. The exponential 

growth in online sales during the 

pandemic makes this all the more 

important and time-sensitive for this 

trade to benefit from this shift to digital 

platforms. 

The GJPEC is expecting a 

comprehensive e-commerce policy 

that will encompass ease in processes, 

hassle-free returns, seamless payments, 

speed of delivery, minimal cost, etc.The 

Department of Revenue has recently 

clarified through a notification dated 

27th Nov 2020 that exports of gem and 

jewellery is permitted in Courier mode 

under the provisions of Courier import 

and exports (Clearance) Regulations 

1998 and Courier Imports and Exports 

(Electronic Data & Processing) 

Regulations 2010. 

All the same, year 2021 is predicted 

to begin bullishly across the world and 

especially bodes well for the diamond 

export business in India. 


Special RepoRt 

10th Edition of JJS IJ Jewellers Choice Design 

Awards Powered by GIA 

IJ Awards Top Designs 

in a Grand Virtual 

Award Ceremony 

22 winners were awarded for their jewellery across 20 categories. The 

virtual award recorded over 2000 viewers across the micro site and 

social media channels 



Hosts for the evening: Siddharth Kannan & Sonam Chabbra 

The 10th edition of JJS IJ 

Jewellers Choice Design 

Awards Powered by GIA 

happened virtually on the eve of 27 

December 2020. The show recorded 

a staggering 2000 viewers across its 

micro site and all the social media 

channels. 

The evening was hosted by Siddharth 

Kannan & Sonam Chabbra, both 

well-known emcees. 22 winners were 

awarded for their spectacular designs 

across 20 broad categories. This year, 

Minimalist Jewellery and Pantone 

Colour of the Year (Classic Blue) were 

included as new categories. 

Celebrity stars Bhumi Pednekar 

and Arjun Kapoor added charisma 

and charm to the entire event, while 

awarding the deserving winners. An 

Sriram Natarajan, Managing Director, GIA (India) presenting the 

award for Couture Jewellery under Rs 5 Lakhs 

Rajiv Jain, Secretary JJS presenting the award for 

Diamond Jewellery under Rs 5 Lakhs 



Ghanshyam Dholakia, Founder & MD & Parag Shah, 

Director of HK Jewels Pvt Ltd, presenting the award for 

Diamond Jewellery over Rs 5 Lakhs 

Celebrity presenter Bhumi Pednekar presenting awards 

Celebrity presenter Arjun Kapoor presenting awards 

Uday Chinai, Chairman BVC presenting the award for 

Heritage Jewellery under Rs 5 Lakhs 

exciting Bollywood Quiz added a much 

needed fun quotient to the whole event. 

Speaking on the Virtual Awards, 

Arpit Kala, Associate Publisher, 

Indian Jeweller magazine said, “All 

manufacturing processes were at a halt 

due to the lockdown but this didn’t 

stop some genius minds to focus on 

innovations in designs. So we thought 

why not get these designs to actual 

pieces and the only motivating factor 

was to organize a competition, get a 

grand jury to do their bit and bring out 

the best in creativity and innovation in 

design. It’s our 10th edition so we had 

to do something different & unusual & 

so far we’ve done a great job.” 

The Grand Jury Meet for the same 

was held on December 10, 2020. The 

panel consisted of experts from gems 

and jewellery, social media, fashion and 

styling, design, and beyond, ensuring 

that each piece of jewellery is viewed 

from different perspectives. The jury 

panel included: Bina Goenka, Founder 

& CEO, Bina Goenka; Eshaa Amiin, 

Celebrity Stylist; Pratiksha Prashant, 

CEO, Kishandas & Co; Shweta Kaushik, 

CEO & Founder, SKID Interior 

Designing firm; Richa Goyal Sikri, 

Gemmologist & Story Teller; Rajiv 



#IJAwArds2020 

Winner 

2020 

Alok Kala, Publisher, 

International Journal Group 

Jain, Secretary Jaipur Jewellery Show; 

Apoorva Deshingkar, Senior Director 

Sales and Business Development, GIA 

India; Meha Bhargava, Founder & 

CEO, Styl Inc, Wedding Stylists and 

Personal Shoppers; Harpreet Suri, 

Global Indian Influencer, Sonam Modi, 

Co-Founder & Head Designer at SVA 

by Sonam & Paras Modi and Renu 

Oberoi, Creative Director, Renu Oberoi 

Luxury Fine Jewellery. 

This year, the awards initiative had 

received over 500 entries from 24 cities 

all across India of which 104 entries 

from 20 categories were shortlisted. 

Each and every entry was unique and 

presented really well by zooming in 

on still photographs from every angle 

and an accompanying video which 

displayed every jewellery in a 360 

degree angle. Plus with the help of ARenabled 

virtual try-ons helped the jury 

members see how these pieces actually 

looked on an individual. 

Powered by GIA, the IJ Awards was 

presented by JJS. The other partners 

include: Hari Krishna Group as the 

Diamond Jewellery category partner, 

BVC as the logistics partner and 

Diamond World magazine as the Media 

Partner. 

1 Colored Stone Jewellery Under Rs. 5,00,000 

Atelo Square, Mumbai 

2 Colored Stone Jewellery Over Rs. 5,00,000 

Emerald Jewel Industry, Coimbatore 

3 Diamond Jewellery Under Rs. 5,00,000 

Umrao Jewels, Mumbai 

4 Diamond Jewellery Over Rs. 5,00,000 

Studio Reves, Mumbai 

5 Couture Jewellery Under Rs. 5,00,000 

Sanskriti Jewels, Mumbai 

Yashasvi, Kolkata 

6 Couture Jewellery Over Rs. 5,00,000 

Awesome Sparklers by Priti Bhatia, Surat 

7 Heritage Jewellery Under Rs. 5,00,000 

Jaipur Ratna by Anuj Gems & Jewellery, Jaipur 

8 Heritage Jewellery Over Rs. 5,00,000 

Sparsh Jewellers, Mumbai 

9 Best Cut Gemstone Under 10 carat 

YS18, Indore 

10 Best Cut Gemstone Between 10-20 Carats 

Sanskriti Jewels, Mumbai 

11 Temple Jewellery of the year 

GRT Jewellers, Chennai 

12 Accessory Jewellery of the Year 

Kirtilals, Coimbatore 

13 Pantone Color of the Year 2020 - Classic Blue 

Khanna Jewellers, New Delhi 

14 Minimalist Jewellery 

Kalajee Jewellery, Jaipur 

15 Statement Jewellery 

Neha Lulla Jewellery, Mumbai 

16 Best Ring Design 

Kalasha Fine Jewels, Hyderabad 

17 Best Bracelet Design 

Kirtilals, Coimbatore 

18 Best Earring Design 

Abaran Timeless Jewellery, Bengaluru 

19 Best Necklace Design 

Pavit Gujral Designs, Chandigarh 

C. Krishniah Chetty & Sons, Bengaluru 

20 Best Bridal Design 

Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers, Jaipur 


In PersonalIty 

ConversatIon 

Richa Singh, MD, Natural Diamond Council 

INCreasINg DesIrabIlIty 

of DIaMoNDs, EvERy 

StEp of thE Way 

Richa Singh, MD, Natural Diamond Council talks about NDC’s new 

campaign, how it will work for the Indian audience, what the NDC 

seeks to do with regard to increasing desirability of diamonds in 

consumers’ minds and more 


In ConversatIon 

We wanted to redefine the typical, traditional diamond gifting 

moments, we wanted to have a very global appeal, we wanted to talk to 

a consumer who has the access to a global repertoire of information. 

NDC has launched its first 

celebrity-led TVC campaign 

with Hollywood actress Ana de 

Armas. What is the idea behind 

partnering with an international 

star for the Indian audience as 

well? 

We chose Ana de Armas as our 

global ambassador because she is 

beautiful; elegant she radiates poise 

and modernity. She is also a part of 

this new ascendant free thinking 

generation that we need to be speaking 

to at the moment. We spoke to a lot 

of consumers across the countries 

and there are certain things that 

are common - the emotions behind 

buying a gift for a loved one, and the 

emotion behind buying something 

that reflects a memory – a moment 

that is special, and it just made so 

much sense that when emotions are 

common across the world then why 

not have a campaign that is common 

across the world. 

What kind of research was 

undertaken before launching this 

campaign in India – could you 

throw light on some consumer 

trends? 

Before we launched the campaign 

we did two kinds of research – one 

was generic research, where we 

spoke to the luxury consumer and 

checked about his or her experience 

with luxury and expectation from 

luxury and what they want to do with 

anything related to luxury products 

and understand from them. And of 

course the second was where we 

tested the campaign and without 

exception every consumer felt 

connected with the campaign, they 

felt emotional about what they saw. 

Everyone remembered a moment 

that was special to them that they 

would have liked to celebrated and 

that gave us the confidence that we 

were on the right track and we had 

a great campaign on our hands. We 

went to all metro cities and tested 

the campaign with the more affluent 

consumer. 

What is the ultimate objective of 

this campaign? 

The objective of the campaign is 

manifold – so starting with the 

fact that we wanted to redefine the 

typical, traditional diamond gifting 

moments, we wanted to have a very 

global appeal, we wanted to talk to 

a consumer who has the access to a 

global repertoire of information. And 

we of course wanted to showcase the 

best of the talent that exists in our 

industry. It is after a long time that 

we had a brand agnostic, celebrityfronted 

campaign, and we are very 

happy with the way it has turned 

out. And we picked on one large 

common insight across the world that 

every moment – small or big needs 

to be celebrated and I think that our 

campaign is a celebration of that. 

The campaign ran through IPL 

Ana de Armas, Celebrity Endorser, NDC 


In ConversatIon 

and some popular television 

programmes across different 

channels – what has the response 

been like? 

We launched the campaign and choose 

high impact properties. Properties 

where the husband and wife could sit 

together and discuss their feeling and 

remember their moments together. 

We had launched with IPL and we 

had a great response. In our Youtube 

page we could see a list of comments 

like ‘did you come in because of Ana 

or did you see it on IPL.’ So now that 

it was viewed in a great way at the 

IPL, we also got a large number of 

our retail partners jewellers who 

wrote into us to say that they noticed 

it. Cricket is a passion in India and 

we need to make diamonds as large 

as a passion cricket is. We continued 

to be a part of all movie channels and 

we are a part of all digital campaigns 

throughout the year. We have constant 

presence digitally. We are creating a 

lot of content on our website. 

Did you have any discussions 

with retailers across India 

before running this campaign 

on its effectiveness in the Indian 

market? 

Before starting the campaign we 

spoke with a lot of retailers from 

the industry to check with them 

what their consumer was feeling. 

They gave feedback about where the 

campaign was being most effective, 

most visible, what sort of jewellery 

would work better, what sort of 

jewellery would be aspirational yet 

resonate with the consumer and I 

think we have arrived at a place 

The objective of the 

NDC is to support 

the integrity of the 

industry and to 

inspire, educate and 

protect the consumer. 

We ensure that there 

is transparency in 

the industry and a 

large part of what 

we do is to increase 

desirability in the 

minds of consumers 

Diamond baguette circle 

necklace, Eriness 

where the industry and us both are 

very happy with the outcome and the 

advertisement that we have released. 

Indian families like to invest 

in gold, more than in diamond 

jewellery as it does not offer 

guaranteed returns, can NDC 

correct this mindset? 

The one-point agenda for us is to 

increase the desirability of natural 

diamonds in the Indian consumer’s 

mind. I think the team has worked 

hard to ensure that we have content 

across the board and that we showcase 

jewellery, which is expensive and 

more accessible to the consumer. It’s 

really the emotions that are important 

and it doesn’t matter if the diamond is 

small or large and there is beautiful 

design and kaarigari that is available 

across all sizes. The objective of the 

NDC is to support the integrity of the 

industry and to inspire, educate and 

protect the consumer. We ensure that 

there is transparency in the industry 

and a large part of what we do is to 

increase desirability in the minds 

of consumers. We have launched a 

great website in July and at this point 

we have around 1.5 million Indian 

consumers visiting the website 

to read our content. From epic 

diamonds to trends and traditions, 

we have everything covered on the 

website. We will always have an 

advertising campaign that will go on 

globally and all of this is to increase 

the desirability of diamonds, so that 

together as an industry, we can grow 

further. 


The Rock Talk 

Espiègleries 

brooch, Chaumet 

Panthiere necklace 

with emerald beads, 

baguette- and brilliantcut 

diamonds, emerald 

eyes and onyx spots, 

Cartier 

Blue Book Octopus baroque 

pearl brooch with diamonds 

and sapphires, Tiffany & Co. 

Diamond giraffe 

brooch, set with 

circular-cut cognac 

and white-colored 

diamonds, with a 

small circular-cut 

ruby eye, mounted in 

18k white gold 

Wildlife-inspired Jewels 

The Jungle Book 

From the rambunctious lion to the 

majestic elephant, bees and butterflies, 

jewellery designers have always found 

wildlife to be a great source of inspiration. 

Here are a few pieces that have depicted 

the beauty of wildlife so well 

Festa horse, 

Bulgari 

Hathi ring in white and yellow gold, 

Boucheron 

L’Esprit du Lion 

watch, Chanel 

Dolphin rock crystal 

bracelet in 18k gold and 

platinum, David Webb 

L’Odyssée de Parcours d’un Style ‘Zebra’ 

high jewellery ring, Cartier 

Hummingbird 

necklace, Chopard 

Save the Wild collection, Tiffany & Co. 

64 | November-December 2020 | DiamonD WorlD 

Light as a 

dragon fly 

brooch, 

Pasquale 

Bruni 

Coq clip with emeralds, 

sapphires, rubies and 

diamonds, Van Cleef & 

Arpels

18K white gold, 

turquoise, and 

champagne diamond 

necklace, Wendy Yue 

The Rock Talk 

Yafa signed Serpenti bracelet watch with 

turquoise, diamonds, circa 1960s, Bulgari 

Turquoise 

Very, Very Blue 

From the azure sky to the 

depths of the ocean, what 

captures the beauty of this 

spectacular shade of blue than 

Turquoise? Here are some of 

our favourite pieces in this 

beautiful gemstone 

Carved turquoise, rock crystal and rainbow 

moonstone earrings, Diana Vincent 

Confetti 18K white gold turquoise, diamond 

Earrings, Briani Raymond 

Empire ring with sleeping beauty 

turquoise, Doryn Wallach 

Orchid 18K yellow gold turquoise, coral 

earrings, Casa Castro 

I See You bracelet with sugarloaf cabochon 

emerald and turquoise beads, David Webb 

Persian tuquoise earrings, 

Hammerman Jewels 

Turquoise necklace 

and earrings from 

Artist series, David 

Yurman 

Spectrum ear jackets with clustered smooth 

cabochons of turquoise, Nikos Koulis 

Ring with carved 

turquoise flower, 

Irene Neuwirth 

Turquoise flower earrings with 

diamonds, Fred Leighton 


The Rock Talk 

Amber Glow 

Sleet 

18kt yellow gold 

double labradorite 

ring, Pippa Small 

High jewellery pendant date inspired by 

Carvaggio, Jewellery Theater 

Almond Oil 

Pantone Autumn/Winter 2020/2021 

Shades of Season 

This season, Pantone Color Institute, has put together a palette of 

fresh colours that are reminiscent of trends that are prevalent today. 

From bright amber hued range to pale yellows and pinks, here are 

jewels that mimic the shades chosen by Pantone 

Opal And Opal and aquamarine 

pendant necklace, Jamie Wolf 

Military Olive 

Classic Blue 

Earrings in blackened silver and white gold 

set with peridot, tourmaline and demantoid 

garnets, Hemmerle 

Cocktail ring with purplish blue 

tanzanite on a mounting with white 

gold sprigs alternating with yellow 

gold and diamonds, Buccelati 

Green Sheen 

Magenta 

Fired Brick 

Water Lily yellow sapphire 

engagement ring, Theo Fennel 

Bombay spinel cabachon ring, 

Martin Katz 

Amethyst 

orchid earrings, 

Chopard 


Blue Depths 

The Rock Talk 

Carved wing 

in 14k yellow 

gold, sapphire 

and diamond, 

Necklace, Jacquie 

Aiche 

Ultramarine Green 

Unique indicolite 

Brazilian Paraiba 

diamond 

platinum ring 

Peach Nougat 

Classic Angel Skin Coral gold earrings 

Sandstone 

Rose Tan 

Samba 

Fancy light pink diamonds with 1.02-ct 

pear-cut gem, Nicole Mera 

One of a kind 22K gold and rubellite 

ring, Arman Sarkisyan 

Morganite earrings from the Rock Season 

collection in rose gold set with pear-cut 

morganites and diamonds, H.Stern 


Personality 

Gemfields Zambian emeralds 

and Mozambican rubies 

Joanna Hardy, Independent Gemmologist 

and Jewellery Expert 

Of KnOwledge 

& BrIllIancE 

One of world’s foremost experts on gems and jewellery, Joanna Hardy 

talks about the state of colour gemstones during this pandemic, her 

books, most favourite jewellery and more 


Personality 

How have exquisite rare gemstones 

faired since Covid-19? 

The situation created by Covid-19 

has highlighted gemstones’ rarity and 

coloured gemstone prices have not 

dipped; if anything, their prices have 

increased slightly. In times like these, 

people who have money want tangible 

assets -people want to put their money 

into an asset. I think they are becoming 

more aware of what rarity means. 

Though the value of sought-after 

gemstones like Pigeon Blood 

Rubies or Kashmiri Sapphires 

have markedly increased over the 

years, the awareness regarding 

these gemstones are still relatively 

low (as compared to diamonds). 

Especially in markets like India, 

colour gemstones don’t hold the 

same value – how can we as an 

industry collectively change this 

mindset? 

We have had 100 years of De Beers 

telling everyone that white diamonds 

are rare and they have done a fantastic 

job of marketing white diamonds. Never 

underestimate the power of marketing. 

If you throw millions at a concept over 

decades, it gets ingrained in people’s 

awareness. Going forward, writing 

about the coloured gemstone market 

is how we will collectively change this 

market. I do love diamonds - out of all 

the white stones it is the best stone by 

miles, no other stone has its adamantine 

lustre - but white diamonds are not rare. 

There are more natural diamonds than 

demand, whereas there are not as many 

natural rubies. There is no comparison 

between the two. You can afford an 

untreated, no-HPHT white diamond, 

but an unheated ruby is often out of 

reach. People gravitate towards white 

diamonds because they can afford 

them, like for like with rubies. 

In the auction world, there has 

truly been a digital revolution 

- do you think the good old days 

of physical auctions and the whole 

excitement of bidding live is going 

to be less seen in the post-Covid 

world? 

I love the auction world; I was brought 

up in it. I was an auctioneer and have 

always found the excitement in the 

room intoxicating. For the buyer, it 

may be a time-consuming activity, but I 

still think that the physical experience 

is preferable. Timed auctions online 

are stressful: they rush at the end and 

you may not be able to get your bid 

in. If you were there in person, the 

auctioneer would see you trying to 

place a bid and would wait. There is 

Bina Goenka x Gemfields x WFG, 

Palm Earrings 

still an excitement of bidding live, but 

it will just be online or by phone with an 

auctioneer watching over. I believe you 

still need to see the jewels in person, or 

you need to have an unbiased opinion, 

which often isn’t easy to find. (I have, 

in fact, become part of Omnêque a 

website selling antique and vintage 

fine jewellery and every piece has been 

seen and vetted by me. It will soon 

also include gemstones.) The auction 

world this year has proven that people 

will still buy without seeing but, as 

the 100-carat white diamond recently 

showed, sometimes higher prices are 

not achieved. People have had time to 

slow down and consider what they read 

and whose advice they take and this 

new approach is reflected in jewellery 

sales: good jewels (signed jewels) and 

gemstones have done well, but large 

diamonds have not. 

What are some of the definitive 

fine-jewellery trends (in terms of 

design) can we expect world-over, 

after Covid 19? 

I don’t know… I don’t have a crystal 

ball! What I like to promote is 

real craftspeople and beautifully 

handcrafted jewels, whether they are 

antique or contemporary. Fine jewellery 


Personality 

What I like to 

promote is real 

craftspeople and 

beautifully 

handcrafted 

jewels, whether 

they are antique or 

contemporary. Fine 

jewellery is beyond 

trends – trends apply 

to fast jewellery 

fashions. People 

should learn to buy 

what they like 

Maria Felix holding her Cartier snake necklace - Courtesy, Cartier 

is beyond trends – trends apply to fast 

jewellery fashions. People should learn 

to buy what they like. 

What shift have you been 

witnessing in consumer behaviour 

and preferences? 

People have not wanted to waste their 

money. As no one has been able to 

travel or spend money in restaurants, 

jewellery has done well because people 

want to treat themselves. This could be 

a Covid period and this trend may not 

exist in the future as we all move back 

into reality. 

You’ve also authored many books 

– what drew you towards writing 

about gemstones and jewellery? 

When I was first asked to write about 

gemstones and jewellery I realised 

what a wonderful opportunity it is to 

share my knowledge with everyone. 

I have adored the travelling that has 

come with the research. Looking at 

a gemstone now is a very different 

practice from how I looked at a stone 

when I was studying gemmology; 

now I think about the people and the 

country that have produced these 

stones. I have been very lucky to have 

these opportunities and it has made 

the gemstones very special. Somehow, 

I want to share my experiences with 

others to explain what has gone into 

seeing a beautiful gemstone. There are 

so many stages and emotions behind 

each process; whether it’s the miner 

that has found this fabulous stone and 

hasn’t found another in five years; the 

cutter that spends months deciding 

how to cut that piece of rough (cutters 

are incredible; you almost have to be 

at one with the stone to cut it well); the 

stone dealer; the designer who chooses 

the stone that speaks to them and tells 

them how to set that stone. There’s an 

awful lot of human thought that has 

gone into a faceted gemstone and that 

is what writing my books has taught me. 

I hope to convey these experiences to 

everyone else through my writing. 

Many people in the industry find 

the term ‘semi precious’ stones 

problematic – it gives the idea 

that the stones are not as precious 

as gemstones, while the fact 

remains that stones like Paraiba 

tourmalines and opals can in some 

cases be rarer than even diamonds 

– your thoughts on this? 

People in the industry that still use 

the term ‘semi-precious’ are not in the 

industry. We have not used the term for 

many decades because it gives exactly 


Personality 

that idea – that some stones are not 

precious. All stones are precious if they 

have rarity, beauty and durability. 

What can you tell us about the 

Indian gems and jewellery industry 

– its rich history, design aesthetic 

and its stature today? 

India is one of the few countries that 

understands gems and jewellery–it’s 

in their culture and heritage. India 

has a long history of trading precious 

gems. It’s all about colour, from the 

introduction of enamels and hardstone 

inlay of the Mughals to the talismanic 

properties and planetary associations of 

gemstones and pearls. Indian jewellery 

designers have embraced all these 

inspirations. Though, sometimes, having 

a rich jewellery heritage is a hindrance 

for modern design! I recognize that it is 

very hard to move beyond a cultural style 

for jewellery; I can see that in British 

jewellery as we have a long heritage of 

Victoriana jewellery that the US does 

not, for example. US jewellery from 

1930s onwards does not have that same 

Gemfields Zambian rough emeralds 

link to heritage. For Indian jewellery, 

the tradition of gold dowries has, as far 

as I’ve been told, led to the practice 

of remodeling jewellery through the 

generations, but I know there are many 

Indian jewellers today, like BHAGAT 

and Bina Goenka that make superb 

jewels that they hope will be passed 

down and never broken up. They take 

their inspiration completely from their 

culture. 

Not many women are there in this 

profession – what challenges have 

you observed while making a name 

for yourself in this field? 

It’s harder to make a name for yourself 

when you’re working in corporations. 

Being independent has let me go 

further. This is a bit of a generalization, 

but I have found it harder to progress 

when I’ve been part of an organization. 

Knowledge is power and I have always 

wanted to concentrate on developing 

my knowledge. Developing your 

knowledge within a corporation can be 

difficult, no matter your gender. 

Bina Goenka x Gemfields x WFG, 

Elephant Earrings 

What would your word of advice 

be for women entrepreneurs who 

are just starting out in this industry 

– what would your advice be for 

those who lack clarity and finding 

their niche? 

It’s got to be your love. If you don’t 

find yourself going to a museum just 

to see what jewellery it has, then this 

profession is not for you. The jewellery 

world is far more diverse than people 

ever give it credit; it has been tainted 

and degraded by bling culture. 

Jewellery can tell you all sorts of things 

about culture and social history, the 

conveying of feelings and attitudes, 

cultural exchanges; it’s hugely diverse 

as a subject. Sometimes it takes a 

while to get there; you may go down 

one path, and then another, and then 

another, but you can’t map the journey 

beforehand. The right path will happen 

if you are true to yourself and true to the 

profession: if you think it’s fascinating, 

it will fascinate you. Social media is 

detrimental to young people’s choices 

because it gives people a very one-sided 

view to any industry and it does not do 

it justice. It’s also not about finding 

your niche; it’s about finding people you 


Personality 

why is one jewel better than another? 

Why is one stone better than another? 

Very small differences make all the 

difference. You have to train your eye 

and question jewels. You cannot just 

accept that a brooch has always been a 

brooch, it might once have been part of 

a tiara, or one half of a double clip. My 

involvement with Omnēque is then to 

showcase this craftsmanship. 

Gemfields Mozambican rough rubies 

want to be with – you have to find the 

people and the materials interesting or 

you’ll find what they do boring – you’ve 

got to enjoy the company of people 

who work with the material. If the 

jewels inspire you and the people feel 

your passion, then you’re there. It’s all 

about passion and inspiration. You’ve 

just got to have honesty and integrity; 

don’t deviate from these two attributes 

while expanding your knowledge. You 

will only get into difficulty if you try 

and be a person you are not and try to 

answer questions that you don’t have 

the answer to. Know when to ask for 

help, but seek the right help. 

Finally, in your long-spanning 

career – talk to us about the one 

piece of jewellery that still has you 

bowled over? 

I think it’s the Cartier snake necklace 

made for Maria Felix in 1968. It may 

sound clichéd, but sometimes the 

best is the best. Out of everything I’ve 

seen that one still impresses me. It is 

totally handmade, with no computers 

or casting; it is an extraordinary feat of 

human craftsmanship. It is huge and 

so realistic. I’ve been very lucky and 

have seen some of the best jewels in 

the world, so it is always tricky to pick 

out one. I also really like the Crown 

of Princess Blanche in the Munich 

Residenz. Its age and condition are 

incredible. Whenever I am in Munich, 

I always go to see it, it is like an old 

friend now. You never tire of seeing good 

quality. As your knowledge grows, your 

appreciation grows; you can be seeing 

the same object, but your appreciation 

of it grows. 

What is the primary objective of 

the Joanna Hardy Foundation 

Course? 

My Jewellery Foundation course is to 

explain craftsmanship to teach people 

how to be discerning when they look at 

jewellery because it’s all in the detail: 

When it comes to jewellery design 

– what are the most important 

challenges involved? (acquisition 

of the right stones or diamonds, or 

coloured stones or the actual act 

of design)? 

I’m not a jewellery designer, but what 

makes me look twice at a design is 

proportion. Proportion is the first thing 

I notice. A well-proportioned jewel 

is pleasing to the eye. A very close 

second is fastenings – the quality of the 

fastenings will make me want to wear a 

piece or not. This can be a catch being 

too flimsy; brooch pins in the wrong 

place or that are too thick; earrings with 

posts in the wrong place so that they 

hang too low. What I cannot stand is 

makers that use shop-bought butterflies 

that are too small for the earring they 

have made; making your own butterflies 

means that the earring is supported as 

intended and shows attention to detail. 

The fun bit is then finding stones that 

speak to you. For most makers, I think 

it is important to first make something 

that you want to wear because that 

jewel will be worn by someone else 

and it will represent you, so you want 

to make sure that you are proud of that 

representation. A good jewel will be 

worn and will travel. 


Company profile 

Purity Jewelry 

Of Purity & Innovation 

In just over a decade, Bangkok based Purity Jewelry has scaled 

new heights, with fresh designs, embracing the best of technology 

and topnotch customer service. Divij Kothari, Director, talks about 

how this fledgling venture has grown to become one of South East 

Asia’s leading manufacturers of fine jewellery 

please walk us through the 

inception of purity Jewelry? 

Purity Jewelry was founded in 2010 by my 

mother, Anjana Kothari. While our family 

had been in the Diamond Trading business 

for over 3 decades, it was in early 2008, 

that the road to form Purity Jewelry began. 

My mother, who has a highly creative mind 

when it comes to jewellery and is very skilled 

in bringing her creativity to life, began by 

doing freelance jewellery designing and 

manufacturing. She developed a small 

collection of pieces that caught the eye 

of stores in Thailand, and even private 

consumers. Over the next year and a half, 

her collection grew slowly and the demand 

for her designs grew. Seeing the potential 

in this business and the scalability of it, my 

father, Poonam Kothari formed the company 

as the Managing Director, and his nephew 

Vikram Golechha came on as the CEO, 

and Purity Jewelry was formed in January 

2010. My mother, still true to her passion in 

designing and product development, is the 

creative director of our company. 

Over the past decade, we have seen 

tremendous growth. Our company has 

grown to employ over 300 people globally, 

Divij Kothari, Director 

and we have established marketing offices 

in Hong Kong, Dubai, and New York. 

In the beginning, majority of our work 

was outsourced, as we still worked out 

of a small office and had a small team of 

8 people. However, as our business grew, 

and our clientele developed, along with 

the markets we expanded to, we moved to 

larger and well-equipped manufacturing 

facilities and our latest move took place 

in January 2019, when we moved to a 

new facility, which is over 10,000 sqft. 

In our new facility, we house over 250 

people, which includes 150 skilled 

craftsmen and 20 people in our Product 

Design and Development team. In our new 

manufacturing facility, we have a state-ofthe-art 

B2B client showroom, which allows 

our clients to view the products as if in 

their own stores and displays, giving them 



additional confidence in the product. We 

also have an in-house photography studio, 

with the latest equipment in jewellery 

photography, providing our clients with 

additional services such as developing 

their collection catalogue, brand videos, 

and campaign shoots. Our facility provides 

end-to-end services for our clients, and 

every step of the jewellery manufacturing 

process is done under one roof, from hand 

sketching, up to the final packaging. 

please tell us about your key export 

markets. 

When Purity Jewelry was established, we 

piggybacked on the markets of our sister 

company (Flawless Company), hence we 

initially focused on the Far East. It was 

more accessible and having an established 

loose diamond trading office there helped 

us develop some clients. Later, as our 

product collection grew, and we took part 

in trade shows, we started to study the data 

of where a lot of our clients came from, and 

we started to grow a larger presence in the 

Middle East. With more and more trade 

shows and clients visiting us, along with 

the growth of our marketing team, we have 

established ourselves in 4 major markets. 

Our main markets in terms of exports are 

North America, Western Europe, East Asia, 

and the Middle East. 

What would you say is your 

company’s specialty – in terms of 

your product portfolio – what is 

unique about your jewellery? 

While we are a full-service Fine Jewellery 

and Colour stone Jewellery manufacturer, 

we specialize in jewellery studded with 

fancy shaped diamonds. We are known for 

our illusion setting with baguettes, pears, 

and marquis, and we also manufacture a 

range of eternity bands, tennis bracelets, and 

high-end necklaces. We are also specialists 

in invisible-set gemstone jewellery. We 

have accessibility to Thailand’s best 

craftsmen, and direct access to the hub of 

gemstones, Chanthaburi. The combination 

of the two allows us to be a market innovator 

and trendsetter in invisible set gemstone 

jewellery. 

How do you stay abreast of trends 

when it comes to jewellery? 

To stay at the top of the market when it 

comes to recognizing and setting up trends, 

we have constant discussions with our 

clients, marketing teams to gain feedback 

on what the consumer is looking for these 

days. We also take part in many trade 

shows, in different parts of the world. There 

we get to know what kind of products are in 

demand, or going out of trend, in a particular 

region. Our teams actively navigate social 

media to spot the current trends in fashion, 

history, and pop culture. 

What according to you are some 

of the biggest challenges the 

industry is facing today – and 

as a manufacturer, how are you 

overcoming the same? 

Jewellery as an industry has always 

been heavily dependent on travel and it 

has always been a very capital-intensive 

industry wherein a lot of stock has to be 

maintained. Even though over the years 

all industries were moving on to an Asset- 

Light model with a heavy transition from 

Offline to Online, the jewellery industry 

kept continuing in the traditional ways. 

Things started to change in 2018, where 

major economies started to heat up; a 

gradual slowdown in the demand was felt 

along with the liquidity drying up which 

created a huge challenge for the industry. 

The final nail in the coffin was COVID 

19, which forced numerous businesses 

without an online infrastructure sucking the 

liquidity out of the market and with the gold 

prices being at an all time high it created a 

ripple effect. The operations of an industry, 

which is heavily dependent on physically 

showcasing the products, was brought to a 

halt and this continues to be a problem, till 

date. We think the way out for the industry 

is to develop a robust online system and 

work actively with their client’s feedback 

and the data that they can procure to move 

their inventory faster. 

As a jewellery manufacturer we have 

extended support to our business partners 

by allowing them to get on board of our stateof-the-art 

digital platform and make use of 

it to entice their customers. We have come 

up with innovative marketing solutions for 

our clients that gives them confidence in 

selling our products ahead to the end users. 

We have also stayed away from being the 



“everything” manufacturer. As a company, 

we realize where our strengths lie in terms of 

our product portfolio, production capacity, 

pricing, and quality, and we choose to focus 

on that, and establish ourselves in those 

product categories. 

What is in the pipeline for your 

company – in terms of adding 

more products to your portfolio, 

expansion plans etc. 

We are adding more and more tennis 

bracelets, eternity rings and daily wear 

items to our product portfolio. As there is 

a greater influx of the younger generation 

having purchasing power, we realize that 

more and more people view jewellery 

as an event-based purchase, hence 

not purchasing it as frequently. As we 

recognized that transitional shift, we are 

providing our clients and ultimately the 

end user, with products that are statement 

worthy, are unique, and can still be worn 

casually whether it be to work or to a 

brunch. 

How has lack of trade shows 

affected your business – how are 

you managing to conduct business 

without tradeshows? 

Though we completely agree with the 

fact that the industry has always been 

dependent on getting a sizeable portion of 

their sales and acquiring new customers 

from trade shows and has always been 

heavily focused on travelling to make sales, 

the work ethos at Purity Jewelry has been a 

bit different. Our focus has always been to 

maintain quality, have competitive pricing 

and to constantly develop new designs, with 

our customers’ customer in mind. Hence, 

with the sudden halt of trade shows, our 

clients, some of whom that have worked 

with us once or twice, have given us repeat 

orders due to their belief in our consistency 

in delivering the right product and at the 

right time. 

Another aspect of our business that we 

are focused on is our online infrastructure. 

We have developed since early this year, 

a powerful online infrastructure for our 

clients. Our online B2B website and mobile 

app was launched earlier this year and we 

have already seen the immediate benefits 

of it. With real time inventory, customer 

level pricing and B2B2C viewing options 

provided on the platforms, our clients can 

place orders, view our products at their 

convenience, and even showcase our 

products ahead to their customers, with 

their margin added, with minimal effort. 

This way we can generate sales without 

having the inventory reach the client, 

reduce our capital risk, and even attain 

something even more desirable, information 

as to what designs, product categories and 

price ranges, people are viewing. The data 

we collect from our online channels helps 

us develop our product portfolio as well. 

What is your forecast for 2021 – how 

do you think the jewellery industry 

will progress in the coming year? 

In the coming year, I think jewellery 

will change, like it already has, from not 

only a statement piece one wears to their 

wedding or a gala event, but to an everyday 

luxury. Many initially believed that the new 

generation would not buy fine jewellery 

because they rather spend on other luxuries. 

I believe that the new generation wants fine 

jewellery, but the current market designs 

are not what they are looking for. They want 

the everyday pieces; they want the feeling 

of luxury without feeling too out-there. 

They value and understand jewellery, but 

the industry must be ready to cater towards 

their needs in terms of design. 

We are looking forward to the coming year 

and while there may be some challenges, 

we are also excited for the new learnings 

and developments to be made in terms of 

innovation and design. 


Design stuDio 

Tatiana Verstraeten 

A New Star at 

Place Vendôme 

Armed with a degree in business management and 

finance and a long journey at CHANEL under the 

direct tutelage of Karl Lagerfeld, Tatiana Verstraeten 

has made a grand entry into Place Vendôme, a 

feat most people can only dream of achieving says 

Vijetha Rangabashyam 


Design stuDio 

head pieces, as well as the Maison 

MICHEL collections. He was to become 

her all time inspiration in terms of rigor 

and elegance. A few years later, after 

a wonderful experience at CHANEL, 

Tatiana ventured to build her own 

eponymous high jewellery line. TVJ 

was launched on 24 Place Vendôme, 

Paris, in January 2019. 

“Karl had a very, very clear vision of 

what he wanted. He somehow taught 

me to trust my own creative instinct, to 

stay fresh and different and not to try 

to belong to a trend. He also taught me 

to shape my ideas into something very 

generous, luxurious and magnificent.” 

As CHANEL had 8 collections a year, 

Tatiana was trained to have ideas and 

how to shape them into jewels again 

and again. “There were numerous 

techniques and infinite materials. It 

prepared me for the high jewellery world 

where your idea has to be very mature 

Karl had a very, 

very clear vision of 

what he wanted. He 

somehow taught 

me to trust my own 

creative instinct, to 

stay fresh and 

different and not 

to try to belong to 

a trend. He also 

taught me 

to shape my ideas 

into something very 

generous, luxurious 

and magnificent 

Tatiana Verstraeten 

Tatiana Verstraeten had a strong 

interest in design since an 

early age, instilled by her artist 

mother. But she decided to first graduate 

in Business Management and Finance. 

After an experience in private banking 

and consulting, she passionately 

supported a young Redbull athlete 

to build his career, then the young 

designer Anthony Vaccarello (now 

YSL’s creative director) to develop and 

gain international recognition in the 

ultra-competitive world of fashion. 

Karl Lagerfeld offered her a position 

in the creative studio of CHANEL in 

2010, to design fashion jewellery and 


Design stuDio 

I want my 

jewellery to 

be fresh, 

different and 

eternal. And for 

every woman, 

of every age. 

My jewels are 

just light to 

embellish a 

woman. Shaped 

with life 

before you begin the piece because 

there is no possibility to go back; it is 

a slow, step by step expensive process 

and it takes months to make one only 

piece.” 

In Tatiana’s pieces there is magic, 

and the beauty of shapes and their 

volume come alive – she breathes in 

every bit of what she has learnt in her 

long journey in the fashion industry 

into her pieces. “I want my jewellery to 

be fresh, different and eternal. And for 

every woman, of every age. My jewels 

are just light to embellish a woman. 

Shaped with life. I like when people say 

my jewels are very “couture”, because 

I don’t try to make beautiful objects 

but to make objects that make women 

beautiful: just like a couture dress, 

my jewels come to life when they are 

worn.” 

The Day and Night collection, 

Tatiana’s latest, began with her everyday 

rings that her friends liked and wanted. 

The SOL ring is derived from Tatiana’s 

family ring, while the LUNA ring was 

designed to pair up different shades of 

gold. The latter is inspired by a strong, 

elegant, rock n’roll young woman, and 


Design stuDio 

China and Middle East and definitely 

wants to explore other growing markets. 

In all of her travels, Tatiana finds Italy 

the most inspiring even today. “Every 

time I go it is like the first time. An 

endless elegance everywhere, in 

everything, every move, every flower, 

every corner.” 

set in pavé or with a beautiful solitaire 

diamond. 

“The idea takes a second. It is 

almost too easy. It crosses my mind and 

everything is there. I need to transmit 

these ideas to my ateliers. This takes 

some time and even more time to 

produce it. I sketch, I talk, I direct. 

Like a conductor! I have to discuss 

with the violins and the saxophones 

and all the instruments separately, and 

then bring them together for the final 

result. A perfect composition. The one 

that crossed my mind for a second, 

sometimes months before.” Tatiana 

enjoys the fact that her audience is so 

varied and diverse. “All my women 

are so different. They come from 

everywhere, at every age, and I love it.” 

Like with all businesses, Tatiana too 

had to brave the difficulties caused by 

the pandemic. “For a moment, it was 

quite silent and people were figuring 

out how long it will take to come back 

to a normal life. It is going well and I 

am lucky to have a wonderful clientele. 

They didn’t forget me.” At the demand 

of her clientele, she decided to have a 

website in both English and Chinese 

and a concierge service to facilitate 

remote buying (online, whatsapp, 

wechat). “We talk much more than 

before and exchange pictures. But we 

can’t wait to meet in Paris again and 

celebrate life.” 

Talking about diamonds losing their 

shine amidst younger consumers, 

Tatiana affirms, “Avoiding diamonds is 

not the solution. They are pure wonder 

and are extraordinary. Diamonds are 

not the problem; it is the system around 

that could be better. And I hope one day 

it will be perfect, thanks to all the effort 

(Blockchain, tracking and other).” 

Tatiana will soon be expanding to 


Haute Joaillerie 

Lune Blue collar necklace 

Louis Vuitton Stellar Times 

Sky is NOT the Limit 

Nobody understands Louis Vuitton’s need to be inherently 

limitless than Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director for 

the Jewellery and Watches division. With her sophomore 

collection Stellar Times, she has certainly delivered a home 

run says Vijetha Rangabashyam 



Céleste black opal, 

emerald, sapphire, and 

diamond necklace 

Cocktail rings from the Apogée series 

Louis Vuitton’s tendency to be peripatetic 

is not a surprise. However, with its brand 

new high jewellery collection, even those 

who have a deep understanding of the brand and 

its journey thus far have been put to astonishment. 

For Louis Vuitton, even sky is not the limit, it can 

not only dream of reaching the infinite depths 

of the Universe, but also make it a reality with 

its creations. Nobody understands the brand’s 

need to be inherently limitless than Francesca 

Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director 

for the Jewellery and Watches division. With 

her sophomore collection Stellar Times, she has 

certainly delivered a home run. 

The collection embodies the spirit of the Cosmos 

with 90s stellar pieces, redolent with an array 

of gemstones – diamonds, emeralds, spinels, 

aquamarines, opals, tanzanites and what have you. 

The starting point for this collection was the halfcentury 

anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing. 

For nearly two years, Amfitheatrof lived and breathed 

the Solar System, its vastness, myriad colours and 

characters. The collection is provocative, paying 

due respect to gemstones in true Louis Vuitton 

fashion, with 7 chapters, Lune Bleue, Apogée, 

Planète Bleue, Céleste, Astre Rouge, Interstellaire 

and Soleils. At the heart of each chapter lies an 

inexplicably precious gemstone. 

Apogée necklace with indicolite, tourmaline, tanzanite and diamonds 



Astre Rouge ruby and diamond high jewellery necklace, 

bracelet and ring 

Making of Soleils necklace set with 3 emerald-cut yellow 

sapphires, spessarite garnets and diamonds 

Planète Bleue emerald, sapphire and diamond 

ring and bracelet 

The Lune series boasts of 

handpicked blue sapphires from 

Sri Lanka and Madagascar. The 

pièce de résistance of this series 

is the Lune Blue collar necklace, 

which is reminiscent of Louis 

Vuitton’s iconic chequered motif. 

A stunning 15ct Madagascar 

sapphire is ensconced in a 

beautiful labyrinth crafted in 

baguette and square-cut diamonds 

and sapphires. 

The protagonist in the 

Céleste series is the black opal, 

demonstrated quite beautifully in 

a necklace that mimics the shape 

of a constellation. Diamonds and 

emeralds make for twinkling stars 

in this asymmetrical necklace. 

The Apogée series which 

literally means apex, takes you 

through the meandering path of the 

space, through a zigzag patterned 

necklace with many shades of blue 

rendered by tourmaline, tanzanite 

and aquamarine, accompanied by 

brilliant diamonds; at the heart 

of the necklace is a heavenly 

emerald-cut indicolite tourmaline 

weighing nearly 35 carats. Every 


Interstellaire bib necklace with 

153 multicoloured spinels and 

diamonds 

diamond-studded V is meant to 

resemble Vuitton (of Louis Vuitton) 

– it is in these hidden subtleties 

lies Amfitheatrof’s genius. 

The rarest of rare rubies 

from Mozambique have been 

handpicked to play their fitting 

part in a rather jaw dropping 

necklace in the Astre Rouge series. 

A tribute to a force that is Mars, 

a seamless mélange of diamonds 

in the shape of stars, drops, 

marquise, brilliants, squares and 

baguettes provide an environment 

for a spectacular 8ct ruby. 

For the minimalists who like their 

jewels to be understated, the choker 

from the Planète Bleue series 

throws light on the relationship 

between Earth and the Universe. 

The necklace, meant to accentuate 

a sweltering décolletage, is crafted 

with baguette-cut diamonds all 

the way down, interspersed by a 

4.63-carat Zambian emerald (to 

depict the Earth) at the neck, and 

a 13.77-carat sapphire at the far 

end (denoting the Universe). The 

baguettes are punctuated with 

diamond flowers, mimicking the 

The collection 

embodies the spirit 

of the Cosmos with 

90s stellar pieces, 

redolent with an 

array of gemstones 

– diamonds, 

emeralds, spinels, 

aquamarines, opals, 

tanzanites and what 

have you 

Bracelet and ring from Soleils series 


iconic Louis Vuitton’s Monogram 

flower. 

The Sun, the ultimate symbol 

of Life, has been celebrated 

unabashedly in the Soleils series 

with radiating yellow sapphires 

from Sri Lanka. A show stopping, 

transformable necklace, set in the 

Maison’s checkerboard pattern 

with diamonds and 60cts worth 

yellow sapphires, is a fitting 

tribute to this infinite source of life 

and energy. The necklace can also 

be worn as a choker as well as a 

bib necklace. 

In the Interstellaire series, multicoloured 

spinels in shades of pink, 

purple and red (194cts approx) 

have been generously used with a 

smattering of diamonds to mimic the 

colourful planets orbiting the Sun. 

For Louis Vuitton, who is 

relatively a late entrant in 

High Jewellery, this is just the 

beginning. Amfitheatrof and the 

master craftsmen at Louis Vuitton 

have taken us through an orbital 

sojourn, we can’t wait to see what’s 

next line. 


GIA AdvertorIAl 

Stone Talk 

Zircon 

Zircon is the oldest mineral on earth, with specimens in Australia 

dating back 4.4 billion years. Because it is quite brilliant and 

has fire close to that of diamond, colourless zircon has been 

used as a natural diamond substitute until recent decades, but 

it is a beautiful gem in its own right. The way zircon breaks up 

light causes viewers to see double when looking into the stone, 

meaning that zircon doubles its own sparkle. Beloved throughout 

history, this gem was thought during the Middle Ages to aid sleep, 

drive away evil spirits, and promote wisdom. 


GIA AdvertorIAl 

Colour 

Zircon’s varied palette of yellow, green, red, reddish 

brown and blue makes it a favourite among 

collectors and consumers alike. Blue is the most 

popular and valuable colour. Green and red are 

among the rarest colours in natural zircon. 

Clarity 

Untreated zircon can have a cloudy or smoky appearance 

and it sometimes contains long parallel 

inclusions that create a cat’s-eye effect when the 

stone is cut into a cabochon. 

Treatments 

Brownish zircon can be heated to become colourless, 

yellow to orange (sometimes called golden), 

red or blue. Although zircon in these colours does 

exist in nature, these colours are rare. It is safe to 

assume that most colourless, red and blue zircon 

has been heat treated. 

Sources 

Some of the finest zircon comes from Madagascar, 

but this gem is also found in the United States, 

Canada, Cambodia, Myanmar, Vietnam, Sri Lanka 

and Australia. 

To learn more about zircon and other popular 

gemstones, visit GIA.edu/gem-encyclopedia 

This This article is is provided by by GIA GIA (Gemological Institute of of America). 

GIA.edu 

Images Images Courtesy Courtesy of: Cenki of: Cenki Thomas, Thomas, W. W. Constantin Wild Wild & Co., & Co., Gerry Gerry Manning Manning 

Learn More About GIA Education Programmes and Laboratory Services in in India 

GIAindia.in Email: labindia@gia.edu Email: eduindia@gia.edu 

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