Affinity Spain A3 Amended144DPI

Spain
Designers Abroad | 2
Spain
Mainland Spain
1: Andalusia Tour by Train
2: Basque Country Tour
3: Madrid
4: Valencia
5: Rioja Wine Country Tour
Extra+
Hora de Vermut:
The new old drink of the moment
Balearic Islands
6: Palma de Mallorca
Canary Islands
7: Santa Cruz de Tenerife
8:Tenerife Tour
9: Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
10: Lanzarote

1: Andalusia Tour By Train
Malaga to Cordoba, Seville,
Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz & El Puerto de Santa Maria
The Plaza Espana, in the Park María Luisa. The gardens of the Palacio de San Telmo were
donated by María Luisa the Duchess of Montpensier to the city in 1893. It was the site of the
Hispano-American Exhibition of 1929 — the buildings remaining were designed by the
celebrated architect Anabal Gonzalez and landscape design was by the French designer
Jean-Claude Forestier. There are horse drawn carriage rides and kiosks in the park and bars,
cafes and restaurants are nearby.
Night time theatricality in Plaza Asuncion, Jerez de la Frontera. The Casa Cabildo was built
by three city fathers in 1575 and used as the Town Hall. From 1873 the building housed the
Municipal Library — it is now used for municipal events.
1

Andalusia
A region with a lively city culture, new or upgraded art galleries
and museums, repurposed markets and pedestrianised streets
make for great short breaks. Excellent rail connections from new
stations and journeys through intriguing landscapes dominated
by olive and orange trees, grape vines and distant hill towns
centred round huge churches enhanced by wealth from the
Spanish colonies.
Routes using the RENFE rail network in Andalusia. High Speed AVE tracks [thicker red line] from
Madrid connect to Malaga, Seville and Granada. Regional trains [thinner red lines] connect
to Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Cadiz. Other regional routes
connect Seville to Huelva; Malaga to Algeceiras via Ronda.
Malaga
A big, bustling regional city with a new cruise terminal and new marina, new galleries and
museums, pedestrianised shopping streets, market dining and numerous tapas bars.
Refurbished official buildings face the Paseo del Park with the Alcazabar and Gilbrafaro
castle on the hill above.
Stretching across the southern part of Spain, the autonomous
region of Andalusia takes it’s name from the Arabic Al-
Andalus referring to the Moorish part of the Iberian
Peninsula occupied from the eighth to the fifteenth centuries
by consecutive Arabic and Berber dynasties. The
geography of inland Andalusia is dominated by the valley
of the Rio Guadalquivir, once navigable as far as
Cordoba and subsequently Seville before silting reduced
its importance to commerce. To the north is the Sierra
Morena and the Sierra Nevada to the south. Between is
a landscape of cork oaks, olive and orange trees, vines and
livestock. New motorways and recent upgrades to the rail
network provide the visitor with easy options for travel
between the provinces of Granada and Malaga with
Mediterranean coasts and Cadiz bordering the Atlantic
Ocean. The major airport is at Malaga, for access to the
resorts of the Costa del Sol and the wonderful cities and
the country beyond!
The Paseo del Parque, Gilbrafaro Hill and revamped Marina from the roof terrace of the
RoomMate Valeria Hotel. The distinctive grey roof of the Palacio Aduana [Museum of
Malaga] is above left. The undulating pergola and glass walled facilities bordering the Marina
were designed by architects Jerónimo Junquera and Liliana Obal. Real Club
Mediterráneo Málaga [the oldest yacht club in Spain] and the Cruise Terminal are
beyond on the right.
2 3

Highlights
• The Roman Theatre was built in the first century AD and
rediscovered in 1951, having lain half-hidden for many years
under the Casa de la Cultura [1940/42-1960’s]. This
building was demolished to allow a full excavation and to
return the theatre to original use in 1992. The adjacent
Interpretation Centre [built in 2010 to designs by Tejedor
Linares & Associados] is decorated externally with text
from the ‘Lex Flavia Malacitana’ — municipal laws
regarding the privileges of Roman citizenship as found on a
bronze tablet recovered from the excavations.
• The Mercado de la Merced has produce stalls and
a mix of eating and drinking offers.
• Mercado Central Atarazanos, with it’s stained
glass windows and neo-Arab style central doors has
unpretentious eateries at one end that spill out onto the
pavement.
• El Corte Inglés department store also a top floor
‘Gourmet Experience’ featuring high quality produce
and wines with an open rooftop bar and seating area
too.
• The Picasso Museum and House — his childhood
home and the nearby museum are major cultural
attractions.
• CAC Malaga — the Contemporary Arts Centre
is a refurbished market building from the pre-WW2
period in the SoHo district.
• Museo de Malaga is housed in the refurbished
Palacio Aduana for Fine Art and Archeology.
• The Pompidou Centre is an outpost of the Paris
institution is at Muelle Uno at the Marina.
• The Museo Carmen Thyssen now houses
Andalusian art of the 19th century.
Digs
The corporate AC Malaga Palacio with a small rooftop
pool — and an adjacent restaurant with panoramic views
and an exterior terrace. The friendly Molina Lario has a
restaurant with direct street access— both hotels overlook
the Paseo del Parque, the Port and beyond.
• New hotels include the Room Mate Valeria Hotel in
the revamped SoHo locale with a cool roof terrace bar
and pool. A major hotel development is the The Gran
Hotel Miramar located adjacent to the Playa de
Malagueta. Originally the Hotel Príncipe de Asturias,
designed by architect Fernando Guerrero Strachan and
inaugurated in 1926, it later served as a field hospital and
the Palace of Justice prior to the recent refurbishment.
Left: The Mercado Central Atarazanos stained glass windows celebrating the history of
Malaga. Above: Roman Amphitheatre utilising the natural slope of the hillside and located
below the towers and walls of the Alcazaba. Below: Home page of the Gran Hotel Palacio
Miramar.
.
The 11 th century Moorish Alcazaba and Coracha [a walled passage] connecting it to the 14 th
century Castillo de Gibralfaro crowning the hill above. Adjacent to the Alcazaba is the
excavated Roman Theatre, a contemporary Interpretation Centre and nearby neoclassical
Palacio Aduana [1827], now refurbished and repurposed as the Museum of Malaga.
4 5

Above: Gardens of the Alcazaba, restored in the 20 th century.
Main: The Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, located on the remains of an
Almohad mosque; building started in 1630 and remains incomplete.
Left: La Odisea Vinos de Málaga, traditional bar/cafe specialising in Malaga wines and
overlooking the Paseo del Parque and constant traffic — but when the sun shines the terrace
is very popular. Above Centre: Charming tiled poster for local Victoria beer. Established in
1928, and previously only available in bottles, it’s recently revived popularity resulted in a new
local factory started in 2017 to cater for draught sales.
Above right: La Campana serves superb fresh cooked tapas at lunchtime and in the
evenings. Push through the crush to order at the bar and wait for the shout!
6 7

Cordoba
World famous for the 'Mesquita' Mosque/Cathedral’
situated on the banks of the Rio Guadalquivir, the city
has a long history, being the capital of Roman Baetica
and later the Moorish Caliphate of Cordoba, the city
declined post-Renaissance — but thus allowing it to retain
its historical core — it’s now the largest urban area
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Centre.
Initially Cordoba owed it’s importance to being the
highest navigable point of the Rio Guadalquivir during
the Roman, Moorish and ‘Reconquesta’ periods,
acceding to Seville that, subsequently to Cadiz only in the
16 th century. Today the picturesque jumble of streets of the
old city and the magnificent monuments and palaces are
testimony to this long history — and lack of subsequent
development. Recent urban projects have focussed on
presenting the ancient structures in a contemporary context.
The area around the Roman Bridge, the Roman
Gateway and newly built Visitor Centre were designed
by Cordoba based architect Juan Cuenca Montilla in
2005. The northern bank has been re-landscaped with
many traditional buildings being repurposed as bars/
cafes/restaurants. As the river bends south, on the southern
bank is the Parque de Miraflores, opened in 2003, a
contemporary urban park again designed by Juan
Cuenca Montilla as a series of terraces with a metal
bridge across the river to the Plaza Cruz de Rastro.
Above: Mesquita-Catedral: The first part of the building, commissioned by
Abd al-Rahman I, showing reused Roman columns. Left: Parque de Miraflores and
bridge across the Rio Guadalquivir.
Centre: The Paseo del Parque is a shady respite fronting the Port of Malaga and Marina with a bar/cafe and small
amphitheatre for summer film, music and theatre shows. The adjacent formal Jardines de Pedro Luis Alonso were
designed by architect Guerrero Strachan. They contain 75 varieties of roses. Also in view is the City Hall, Banco de
España, a Malaga University building and the Museum of Malaga [Palacio Aduana] still being refurbished when
photographed.
8 9

Highlights
The present gardens were originally the vegetable gardens of the Alcazar and were
Above: The Mesquita, Interpretation Centre and Roman
•Mesquita-Catedral de Cordoba: it’s long history commences with the 6 th century
Visigoth Basilica of San Vicente, subsequently raised by Abd Al-Rahman I to build the
Great Mosque in 786 and enlarged by Abd Al-Rahman I I around 833-48, a further
enlargement by Al-Hakkam II during 962-66 and a third enlargement by Almanzor in
991-94. It became a Christian cathedral in 1146 with gothic style additions and restoration
work continued until very recently. On entering [early morning is best] the visitor is astonished
by it’s size and the repetition of the Moorish columns receding into the distance, the amazing
detailing and the juxtaposition of the Christian gothic interventions. Also check out the very
good website with lots of diagrams, information and timeline.
•Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos: again initially an early mediaeval Visigoth structure,
reformed in the mid 20 th century with a series of three different levels, all with large basins fed
from a smaller basin near to the fortress.
•Palacio Viana: a sequence of 13 patios in an extended property owned continuously
from 1492 by the Lords/Marquises of Vilaseca, the Counts of Villanueva de
Cárdenas and the Marquises of Viana until 1980. Each family era added to or
developed the palace and patios; it is now owned by the regional bank institution
Fundación CajaSur.
• Mercado Victoria: isolated between the busy Paseo de la Victoria and Avenida
Republica Argentina was Andalusia’s first gourmet market. Opened in 2013, the Mercado
Victoria was formerly the Casita del Círculo de la Amistad, a private club built in 1877.
Bridge.
Left: Bell Tower of the Mesquita built around the original minaret in 1589 to a design by
Hernán Ruiz II. Above:the contemporary Visitor Centre [on left] and pedestrianised street
leading to the Mesquita/Catedral.
rebuilt by the various Moorish dynasties and subsequently by the Christian Alfonso IX from
1348 on a part of the Moorish fortress in a Mujédar style that remains to today.
10 11

Digs
Our choice was the Viento 10 hotel, a 10 minutes walk
from the city centre with many accolades on TripAdvisor.
Only eight rooms/suites, beautifully converted from a
traditional property on a very narrow, pedestrianised street.
Rooftop sun terrace. Gerardo, the owner is keen to talk to
visitors. He offers a very good, reasonably priced breakfast
and will book you the Jacuzzi and sauna for free.
Far Left: The remaining tower and entrance to the gardens of
the Alcazar. Left: Main basin in the Alcazar Gardens with
statuary interspersed between the yew trees. Above: Avenue of
orange trees in the Alcazar Gardens.
The Mercado Victoria has over 30 stalls offering local Cordoban cuisine, Andalusian and
international food, regular events including a ‘cana and tapa’ offer for 2 euros Monday-
Wednesday, cocktail making classes from local ingredients and musical events. It is open until 2am
at weekends.
12 13

Seville
Bullfights and flamenco, intriguing art galleries, museums and
wonderful gardens, great tapas bar hopping and dining,
rowing on the river and a illustrious history. From its 9th century
BC Tartessian origins, Seville has been an administrative
centre for Carthaginian, Roman, Visigoth, Moorish
and Castilian cultures. The city is inextricably linked to the
colonisation of the Americas and benefitted greatly during
the ‘golden age’ with a monopoly on trade for two
centuries. During the nineteenth century is was the most
industrialised city in Andalusia and has become a very
popular destination for visitors, without losing it’s distinctive
culture.
Don’t be put off by the lack of easy connections
to the city centre when you pull into Seville’s soaring
concrete Santa Justa railway station. Be bold and walk or
catch the C2 circular bus route that may get you close to
your accommodation or grab a taxi to weave through the
web of streets of the ‘Casco Antiguo’.
Although Seville has a long and illustrious history, this can
be dipped into while enjoying the modern day pleasures of
the city. The great resource of the city is the Rio
Guadalquivir — an essential connection with the world
when navigable by commercial shipping; today it provides
a popular leisure facility for tourist cruises, rowing and
canoeing and the riverside path is used by cyclists, joggers
and dog walkers.
Highlights
•The Museo de Belles Artes, previously the early 17th
century Convento de la Merced Calzada. The highlight
is the polychrome deconsecrated church with numerous
religious paintings by Bartolomé Esteban Murillo (1617-
1682).
• CAAC: Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo:
housed on the site of the Cartuja Monastery built in
1400; the location was redeveloped in 1900 as a ceramics
factory and then repurposed again as a cultural centre in
1992. We saw a retrospective of Spanish artist Luis
Gordillo and work by Lorraine O’Grady from the USA
exploring cultural identity. The CAAC has a good bar/cafe
with seating in the gardens.
•The Real Alcazar is the Royal Palace of Seville
encapsulating 1000 years of architectural history. It is an
amazing group of buildings and gardens — still used by the
visiting Spanish royal family as a residence.
• Mercado Lonja Del Barranca with it’s charming
riverside terrace.
• Mechela — excellent creative food, great service and
very good value for money.
• La Matta 24 on Alameda Hercules — we happened
upon a charming restaurant run by a young team serving
sophisticated dishes on a narrow ‘flatiron’ site and great
prices.
• Abantal: This was our big treat — a pre-booked meal
at the two Repsol Sols/one Michelin star restaurant where
chef Julio Fernández Quintero produces a superb take on
Andalusian food.
• Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de
Caballería de Sevilla: the bullring — is an essential visit
— still a private institution owned by Sevillian aristocratic
families. Originally a series of wooden structures built
between 1730 and 1761 and replaced by the current stone
buildings and finally completed in 1885. The guided tour is
very good.
• Mercado de Triana is just by the Puente de Isabel II
bridge — over the river from the Mercado Lonja del
Barranco — a traditional produce market with a few twists:
it’s been rebranded with it’s own typeface designed by
Alberto Carnero for ‘Look and Do It’ agency and has a
cooking school: Taller Andaluz de Cocina featuring market
produce.
• Triana district has some great tapas at Blanca
Paloma in an area that is being ‘gentrified’ especially near
the canal/river.
• Casa Morales in the city centre is a lively old
traditional bar with huge storage jars along the walls and
waiters who really enjoy their job.
The deconsecrated convent church of Convento de la Merced Calzada now the centrepiece of
Museo do Belles Artes.
Below: Patio in the Casa de Pilatos, the Palace of the Dukes of Medinaceli, commenced
in the late 15 th century with further construction in the 16th and 19 th centuries. Right:
Main gate to the Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla —
the Bullring.
14 15

Digs
Seville is awash with hotels to cater for the huge numbers of
tourists that flock to visit the city. Our choice for a special
occasion is the Hotel Colón Gran Meliá in the Museo
neighbourhood of Seville. Stylishly furnished with pieces from
iconic contemporary designers and not too big. Within easy
walking of the Casco Antiguo and the Rio Guadalquivir — with
a taxi rank just outside for trips further afield. The classic hotel is
named after King Alfonso XIII and built for the 1929 Ibero-
American Exhibition; the architect was Jose Espiau y Muñoz,
[the brother-in-law of the chief architect of the Exhibition] Anibal
González. The hotel was remodelled I 1976 and 1991 the
architect was Rafael Manzano Monis and again in 2012 for
Marriot Hotels. Grand rooms and public spaces in Mudejar
style.
Left: Entrance of the Museo do Belles Artes on Plaza del Museo. Right: Recreated studio of
artist Luis Gordillo at CAAC: The Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporaneo, in the
Cartuja de Santa María de Las Cuevas located on the Isla de Cartuja between
Canal Alphonso VIII the Rio Guadalquivir.
Above: Hotel Alfonso XIII. Right: Atrium of the Hotel Colón Gran Meliá in the Museo
neighbourhood. Far right: Chipirones [Stuffed Calamares] main course at Mechela restaurant.
16 17

Left: Patio del Crucero, Real Alcázar rebuilt over the mediaeval garden in 1755.Above: Patio
de Leon and Muro Almohad [external walls] leading to Patio de la Montereria.
The Real Alcázar: the building commenced in the 10th century by the Caliph of Cordoba,
Abdurrahman III an-Nasir with further building and remodelling until the late 19th century by
the Abbadi, Almoravid and Almohadi Muslim rulers and Castilian and Bourbon monarchs
in various architectural styles.
Above: Entrance Hall: Moorish with repurposed Roman Corinthian capital columns. Right
Geometric decoration on a the interior of a dome. Far Right: Visitors location maps appear on
contemporary styled steel support.
18 19

Far left: Courtyard of the Maidens ‘a hybridisation of Muslim and Christian architecture’. Left: A
screen and columns dividing spaces in the Alcazar.
Upper Level of the Patio de las Muñecas [Courtyard of the Dolls] in the Real Alcázar.
20 21

Above: Jardín de los Poetas [Garden of the Poets] was created in 1956 by poet Joaquín
Romero Murube and planted to a design by Javier Winthuysen: a Sevillian landscape
designer, to commemorate the Spanish literary generation of 1927.
Above: The Maria de Padilla Bathrooms — celebrating the legend of the lover of King Don
Pedro, situated below the Patio del Crucero and open to the Garden of Dance.
22 23

The Espacio Metropol Parasol or Las Setas [Mushrooms]: Plaza de Encarnación, Seville.
The world's largest wooden building? Designed by the Berlin based architect Jürgen
Mayer. Construction began in March 2006 and completed in May 2011. It comprises a
basement museum, a market and shops, event space and upper level walkways and
viewpoints.
Below: Contrasting old bar/cafe E Morales. Barrels line the interior walls and are pressed
into service as tables for tapas too. Lively service and crowds of locals in addition to tourists.
The Mercado Lonja del Barranco Gourmet Market, a lovely iron and glass building
designed by Gustave Eiffel on the bank of the Rio Guadalquivir. From 1883 until 1970 it
was used as a retail and wholesale fish market. It's the only iron market surviving in Seville. It
now has 20 food and drink concessions and a terrace to view the waterside path and sports
on the river. .
24 25

Jerez de la Frontera
Everyone is drinking sherry in Jerez! It’s the tipple of choice
in the numerous bars, cafes and restaurants in the city
centre. History abounds in the Alcazar, Cathedral,
mansions and palacios and a visit to a bodega is a must. A
centre of wine making since Phoenician and Roman
times. The surrounding terrain of chalky poor soils and
climate of hot summers and wet winters is ideal for wine
production. The Roman city was called Asta Regia. It
was then a Visigoth settlement before being conquered
by the Moors in 711. During the Moorish period it was
called Xerez or Xerés. The Alcazar fortress was built by
the Moors in the 11th century and the city expanded
greatly in the 12th and 13th century. In the Christian
‘Reconquesta’ the Moorish Almohads were defeated
in the Battle of Jerez in 1231. Subsequently a number of
families ennobled by Alfonso X settled in Jerez. After the
discovery of America, Jerez benefitted greatly from trade
with the Spanish colonies and in the 17th century the wine
trade developed with input from merchants and investors,
becoming synonymous with the production of fortified
wines: sherry and the distillation of brandy. The vineyards
span a triangle of land between Jerez, El Puerto de
Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda, towns that
also have bodegas where sherry is blended, stored and
exported. Jerez to El Puerto was one of the first rail lines
in Spain, built to tranship sherry for export.
Main: El Gallo Azul [The Blue Cockerel] commissioned by
the Domecq family to commemorate the Ibero-American
Exposition it opened in 1929, comprising narrow ground
floor tapas bar and an upper level restaurant. Designed by
Sevillian architect Aníbal González Álvarez Ossorio. The
name comes from a painting as part of the interior decoration
by local artist José Luís Torres. The ornate clock was erected
in 1934 as the winning design of a competition for a distinctive
marker of this iconic location in Jerez. El Gallo Azul was sold
to local businessman Carmelo López in 2008 and then to
Gonzalo Assiego in 2016. Subsequently the property was
closed during 2019 for refurbishment including the installation of
a lift in the adjacent building — also purchased by Assiego.
Opposite Page: Palacio Domecq: commissioned by the
first Marquis of Montana in 1775 and subsequently
purchased by Juan Pedro Domecq Lembeye in 1855. The
Domecq family home until 1964. It is now available to rent
for private events.
26 27

Palacio de los Perez Luna and Plaza Rafael de Rivero. The Palacio was built on a former
Moorish building by the Perez Luna family in1777. Remodelled by architect Ramón González
de la Peña in 2008 for the Teresa Rivero Foundation, the nearby cafes use the plaza to
extend outdoors.
Above: Mercado Central de Abastos, completed in 1875 to designs by Diego López de
Morla on the site of a former Franciscan monastery. Renowned for an exuberance of fresh
produce particularly fish. Left: Entrance to Palacio Petra de la Riva, once owned by Diego
López de Morla, created Count of Villacreces in 1815 and joint creator of CajaSol, the
first Spanish savings bank. Now owned by the Domecq family and restored during the 20 th
century.
28 29

Above Left: A quiet moment in Cafe Central, Jerez de la Frontera.
Teatro Villamarta built in 1928 under the initiative of the Marquis de Villamarta. Privately
managed to 1986; later reopened by the City Council as a public venue, supported by the
Fundación Teatro Villamarta.
Above: Jerez Railway Station showing traditional tiling manufactured and supplied by the
famous Mensaque & Rodriguez of Triana in Seville above the doors to the entrance and ticket
office. The present station was built in 1928 just before the Seville Exposition of 1929. The building
has been attributed to architect Aníbal González, better known for the Plaza de España in
Seville.
30 31

Left: Jerez Cathedral overlooking a street between warehouses in the Gonzalez Byass
bodega. Above: Courtyard in the Gonzalez Byass bodega showing flora on the
stonework from the old brandy distillery buildings.
Catedral de Jerez de la Frontera: Built in the 18 th century on a former mosque, adjacent streets were modified and the Plaza de
la Encarnación created concurrently. Mainly Gothic with Baroque detail on doorways, near to the Alcazar de Jerez.
32 33

Above: Impromptu late session at Tabasco Mesones —
accessible from the rear of Tabanco El Pasaje when the
latter closes for the night. Right: Tabanco Las Cuadras,
housed in the former stables of the Palacio Casares, Plaza
de la Asunción.
Jerez de la Frontera names it’s bar/cafes ‘tabancos’ offering well priced drinks, tapas and
small plates — raciones. The first was opened in 1934 by Manuel Munoz Pena and is now
called Tabanco San Pablo. Fewer than in the past, they are also home to local flamenco
dancers, musicians and singers. Some of the better known form a ‘Ruta de los Tabancos Jerez’
[see annotated map]. Additionally other recommended tabancos are: Tabanco El Racimo,
Tabanco Mesones, Tabanco Las Cuadras, Tabanco La Bodeguita Iberica. Jerez also
offers fine dining with two Michelin starred establishments: De Albala Restaurante headed by
chef Israel Ramos and Mantua with chef Juanlu Fernández. Offering great value with a
degree of sophistication is Albores whose chef Julián Olivares specialises in preparing tuna in
a variety of ways. The Feria de Caballo is the May Horse Fair with booths that are open to the
public, combining a love of flamenco dancing and singing, horses, dressing up and drinking
sherry into the early hours for a week — allegedly friendlier and less haughty than the similar event
in Seville.
Digs
Hotel Maria Luisa and Hotel Casa Garvey are the 5
and 4 star hotels. Hotel Casa Grande on Plaza las
Angustias was a quirky, family run place now owned YIT
Hotels who have improved the property without losing it’s
slightly austere character.
34 35

Cadiz
The rail line from Jerez de la Frontera passes through El
Puerto de Santa Maria and then hugs the edge of the
bay before turning north to traverse the narrow isthmus to
the ancient city of Cadiz. Founded by the Phoenicians
and subsequently a Greek, Roman, Visigoth and
Moorish port city before the Christian ‘Reconquesta’ in
1262. It became the base for the Spanish fleet and with the
move of the Casa de Contratación from Seville to
Cádiz in 1717 it gained greatly from trade with Spanish
colonies in America. The old city is now a grid of streets
lined with attractive traditional buildings, surrounded on the
seaward sides by stone ramparts, Las Puertas de Tierra
— an impressive land gate — and several fortresses now
repurposed as cultural facilities.
The old city is perfect for walking round — a wide
pedestrian promenade follows the ramparts interspersed
with small urban parks: Calle Campo del Sur/Avenida
Duque de Nejera/Avenida Doctor Gomez Ulla/
Paseo Carlos III/Alameda Marques de Comillas/
Alameda de Apodaca/Calle Honduras all
overlooking the ocean. The bus no. 2 goes in both
directions if you wilt with numerous bars offering respite
from the sun and heat.
Highlights
•The Cathedral: commenced in 1722 on a new site to
replace the original Cathedral de Santa Cruz burned
down in 1596 in an attack on the city. Initially designed and
built in a baroque style, completion took over 100 years
with latter elements in a neoclassical style. Of particular
Balneario de Nuestra Señora de la Palma y del Real, La Calmat. Inaugurated in 1926
interest is the crypt with an unusual acoustic. The audio tour
replacing the 19th century traditional wooden Bayous del Real.
is recommended for greater detail.
• Parque Genoves: adjacent to the Hotel Atlantico,
the cafe in the park has well priced drinks and a surprising
lunchtime food offer — considering the size of the kiosk —
and up in the palm trees some very noisy parakeets!
•Bar Club Caleta: join the local fishermen for a glass of
Bar Club Caleta overlooking the La Caleta beach, between Castillo de San Sebastián and
wine and boquerones all served from an undercroft
Castillo de Santa Catalina within the old city and near to Parador Hotel Atlantico in the
beneath the promenade.
Barrio la Viña. The beach area is the location of the old Bahía-Caleta canal and a source of
•Royalty Cafe & Restaurant: a wonderfully overblown
numerous major archaeological finds.
creation of 1912 recreated in 2012 — OTT decoration, but
good service [waiters with trolleys] and very fair pricing for
a range of tapas, drinks and full meals in the restaurant
section.
36 37

•Ultramar & Nos: well regarded in some reviews, little
high tables and stools, an eclectic mix of dishes and quite
high prices.
•La Taperia de Columela: a contemporary space with
tapas in generous proportions at the bar and a few tables
with people constantly coming and going.
•Balandro: the huge U shaped bar surrounded by small
tables and large windows overlooking the Alameda de
Apodaca and the bay beyond is a wonderful location for
stylish tapas or more substantial meals.
•Bar Brim: old style bar cafe near the port.
•Biblioteca Casino Gaditano: on Plaza San Antonio
is painted pink and cream with a very lively cafe next to a
doorway through which one could see a huge chandelier:
‘an emblematic cultural and social institution that, since
1844, has been fomenting the spread of culture, science,
economic progress, dialogue and coexistence among the
people of Cadiz, within the framework of a historic and
beautiful building’.
• Catamaran de Bahia Cádiz: boat service across the
bay and up the Rio Guadalete to El Puerto de Santa
Maria or north across the bay to Rota adjacent to the
NAVSTA Naval Base leased to the US military.
Digs
•Parador Cadiz Hotel Atlantico: totally rebuilt in 2012
— all glass and steel — to co-ordinate with events
celebrating the bi-centenary of the signing of the Spanish
Constitution of 1812. A real change from the dark wood
furniture and 50’s style of the previous building. All rooms
have floor-to-ceiling sliding windows.
• Hotel Argantonio: just a few steps from the docks with
more traditional details, very friendly, but some rooms quite
small.
Previous page: Entrance façade to the eighteenth century Catedral de Santa Cruz de Cadiz,
last resting place of composer and Gaditano Manual de Falla. Left: Royalty Restaurant
Cafe, Place Candelaria. Inaugurated in 1912 by Gomez Doree, refurbished 2008 by the
De la Serna Martin family. Above: Quilla Restaurant Cafe, Avenida Duque de Najera,
Caleta Beach.
38 39

Above: The Iglesia de San Antonio, completed in 1669 and renovated in the 19 th century,
built over a former chapel. Right: Biblioteca Casino Gaditano staircase to archives and
library. Above right: potted geraniums animate an old window.
Above: View of the Port of Cadiz and city skyline from the Catamaran de Bahia Cadiz.
Left: Ceramic sign beside a shop for a regional Crafts Association.
40 41

Top: Traditional bar on Calle Compañía near the Port of Cadiz recommended for a slice of
real Gaditano life. Good coffee but erratic opening times! Right: Street scene in the city centre of
Cadiz. Projecting traditional bay windows make the most of available light.
Cádiz Semana Santa [Holy Week] is an intense and sombre event in the religious
calendar. The Hermandades de Penitencia — the religious brotherhoods of the city —
have processions throughout the week bearing floats with The Mother of Sorrows religious
icon through the streets of the old city, accompanied by drum and trumpet bands, stopping at
the city's cathedral. Beware of the slippery candle wax on the streets during the processions!
42 43

Left: Plaza de las Flores has a daily flower market and
location of one of the last fried fish shops in Cadiz. Above:
Room with a view at the Parador Cadiz Hotel Atlantico.
Right: Tapas at the bar in the Restaurant Balandro on
Alameda Apodaca.
44 45

El Puerto de Santa Maria
‘El Puerto’ is best known today as one of the three points
of the ‘Sherry Triangle’ [with Jerez de la Frontera and
Sanlúcar de Barrameda] the region cultivated for grape
production and the production of sherry.
Located near the mouth of the Rio Guadalete on the
Bay of Cadiz, ‘el Puerto’ has a distinguished history:
Phoenician, Greek and Roman connections, 500 years
of Arab rule and following the ’Reconquesta’ links with
Christopher Columbus. It became the residence of
wealthy merchants who traded with the Americas. Apart
from the historical town centre there are tourist beaches on
both sides of the Rio Guadalete.
Highlights
• Iglesia Mayor Prioral: A large Gothic building with
Baroque and Plateresque embellishments, built between
1486-1493, architect recorded as Alonso Rodriguez.
Suffered earthquake damage 1636 and partly rebuilt and
extended.
• Flamenco: El Puerto is one of the homes of dancing,
music and performing and has dedicated venues: La Jara
Flamenco, El Bodegon, Peña Flamenca Tomás El
Nitri and El Lerele Cafe Cantante plus a large number of
schools teaching flamenco. A show featuring local dancers
is a great experience. On a lighter note the Miss
Flamenco competition is also set to be revived in 2020.
We caught the event held at Hotel Monasterio de San
Miguel some years ago.
• The Bullring: it’s big.
• Bodegas: The sweet odour of maturing sherry is all
pervasive in El Puerto and some of the visits are more
casual than in Jerez. Caballero, Grant, Gutiérrez
Colosía, Osborne and Terry all offer visits and tastings of
sherry and/or brandy.
• Castillo de San Marcos: Initially an Islamic mosque
and converted to a church by King Alfonso X who also
had the castle constructed on the site. Ownership has been
linked to the family of the Dukes of Medinaceli since the
14th century. Heavily restored in the 20th century, it is now
owned by Bodegas Caballero. Visits end with a fivesherry
tasting!
• Palacio Medinaceli: an 18th century palacio now a 5
star hotel with a botanical garden featuring some 100 year
old plants.
• Gastronomy: Aponiente is a restaurant that currently
holds 3 Michelin stars. Housed in an 18th-century tidal mill
perched over a tributary of the Rio Guadalete and near
the railway station, chef Ángel León specialises in seafood
creations — very expensive. El Puerto is also well known
for seafood bought by weight and cooked to order at
Romerijo, then consumed al fresco. Other restaurants also
offer high quality seafood and other local produce.
• Playa La Puntilla: the nearest beach to town, a short
walk along Avenida Bajamar and convenient to cafes and
restaurants including the well reviewed Blanca Paloma
under apartments designed in ‘seaside’ style.
Digs
Hotel Monasterio de San Miguel: a converted 18 th
century religious institution, now 184 room hotel with pool
in an understated classic style. The Hotel Puerto Sherry is
a contemporary property overlooking the marina and
beach offering water sports experiences and a free shuttle
to Cadiz during Carnival week.
Left: The main church in El Puerto: Iglesia Mayor Prioral. Above right: Elegant signage for
Pedro Muñoz Seca Municipal Theater, developed from an old army barracks building
and opened in 2007. Above: Sunny lunch at Romerijo the most popular of the seafood
shop/restaurants in El Puerto. The huge Romerijo warehouse is just on the opposite bank of
the Rio Guadalete.
46 47

48 49

Previous Pages and Above: Flamenco show in El Puerto de Santa Maria. Individual and group
performances are very serious and accompanied by traditional guitar, even the youngest dancers
are determined to perform all the flourishes and footwork required to express the meaning of the
dance. Some bars offer a more casual experience with members of the public dancing in flip-flops!
Above Left: Bar/club in El Puerto de Santa Maria. A flamenco performance is very much a
local small scale affair but exceptionally professional. Above and right: The lighter side of flamenco
at the Miss Flamenco competition held at the Hotel Monasterio de San Miguel where it’s
all about the dresses and charming the judges! Lots of anxious mothers in the audience supporting
the younger performers!
50 51

2: Basque Country Tour:
Bilbao, Hondarribia, Getaria, Gernika & San Sebastian [Donostia].
The iconic Guggenheim Museum designed by US architect Frank Gehry spearheaded the revival of the
city focussing on the previously highly polluted Rio Nervion and revitalising the industrial bank-side with
parkland, stunning architecture and a tram route. New apartments, hotels, offices, university and public
buildings surround the museum and linear park with further developments approved but awaiting funding.
The Guggenheim Museum has an excellent cafe with a sunny terrace and
‘nerua’ an award winning restaurant headed by chef Josean Alija.
52 53

2: Basque Country Tour
The Basque region has alpine like countryside with towering
peaks, dramatic seascapes and dynamic cities with a world
renowned gastronomy in bars and restaurants, linked by new
motorways, rail routes and excellent public transport.
Bilbao
An iconic museum, a revitalised, sophisticated cityscape
[Bilboans are justly proud of their city and region and use
the Basque version of the name ‘Bilbo’ ubiquitously for
transport branding] plus a stunning food and drink culture:
creative pintxos snacks line every bar counter and the local
Txakoli white and Rioja red wine are the drinks to order —
making for a great city break.
Economy flights from many locations in Europe land at
the Santiago Calatrava designed airport just outside
Bilbao and the BizkaiBus links it to the city centre. RENFE
trains linking the city with the rest of Spain and onwards
throughout Europe terminate at Abando station. The narrow
gauge EskoTren trains to San Sebastian link with the
EskoTren tram at Atxuri station. FEVE narrow gauge trains
to Santander and beyond — the final stop is Ferrol in
Galicia— have their own picturesque La Concordia
terminus. Brittany Ferries route to and from Portsmouth
UK anchors at the estuary of the Rio Nervion at
Zierbena.
Highlights
• The Casco Veijo: The old town is accessed from either
the plaza at the Arriaga Theatre or the Mercado Ribera
tram stops leading to a series of parallel streets [The 7
streets] and to the Plaza Nueva: an arcaded square
housing the Basque Language Institute and a number of
bars and restaurants including the tiled Café Bar Bilbao
and highly decorative Victor Montes. Other bars and
restaurants in the old town Berton a pintxo and drink deal
for 2 euros; Los Fueros grilled prawns and Rio Oja for a
range of stews including beef, lamb or mussels at the bar.
• The iconic Mercado Ribera: designed by Pedro
Ispizua, opened in 1929 and was restored 2008-12. The
municipal market hall featuring spectacular stained glass
windows now has bars and gourmet offers and the La
Ribera bar/restaurant/music venue on the ground floor.
• The Ensanche: The 19 th century new town, planned by
architects Alzola, Achcarro and Hoffmeyer, is a grid of
5/6 story buildings: churches, hotels, office buildings,
mansion blocks with cafes, restaurants and small shops at
street level; the El Corte Inglés department store, the La
Concordia FEVE narrow gauge and Abando [Norte]
RENFE main line train stations and Bilbao Tourist Offices
on Plaza Circular.
• Gran Via Dom Diego Lopez de Haro: [named after
the 13th century Lord of Biscay] is the tree-lined main
artery of the city — full of big brand shops.
• Calle Ledesma: thronged with customers at the many
pintxos bars.
• Café Iruna: decorated with advertisements and in one
corner hot and fresh Pintxos Morunas from Ahmed are
available every evening.
• Doña Casilda Iturruzar Park: bordering the
Ensanche and Abandoibarra areas contains the Museo de
Bellas Artes with it’s Miesian style extension and cafe/
restaurant.
•Alhóndiga Bilbao [now the Azkuna Zentroa] on
Plaza Arriquibar is the culture and leisure centre — a
municipal wine warehouse designed by Ricardo Bastida
in 1909 and repurposed to designs by Philippe Starck
and Thibaut Mathieu opening in 2010. Note the
individually decorated columns, the glass bottom swimming
pool, roof top bar and Yandiola restaurant.
• Funicular de Artxanda: opened in 1915, the lower
station is near Paseo del Campo Volantín and takes
passengers to the summit of Monte Artxanda. Great views
from the small park and sports facilities and Restaurante
Txakoli for a drink, pintxos or a full meal.
• Eskotren Tram and Train: From Atxuri station near the
Casco Viejo the green tram mainly follows the Rio Nervion
before turning towards the San Mames football stadium
and La Casilla terminus and bus station. From Atxuri the
narrow gauge trains head to Gernika and the port of
Bermeo or via Durango to Donostia/San Sebastian.
• Metro Bilboa: The system traverses both sides of the
Rio Nervion coming together in the city centre as shown on
the Y shaped route diagram. Great for trips out to seafood
restaurants in Santurzi or the beaches of Gexto and
Plentzia.
Digs
We’ve stayed at the Hotel Ercilla Lopez de Haro on
Orueta Apezpikuaren Kalea, an oldish building with
predominately dark bar and breakfast areas; the Sercotel
Coliseo on Alameda de Urquijo, very corporate, above a
casino; the Barcelo Bilbao Nervion on Campo de
Volantín Pasealekua, pleasant modern entry area, bar and
restauarnat, superior rooms in a more traditional style, onsite
parking; and our favorite the Melia Bilbao on
Leizaola Lehendakariaren Kalea— a big red contemporary
edifice with full height atrium, a small outdoor pool tucked
into the 5 th floor, situated near the Euskalduna Conference
Centre with views of the Rio Nervion and the Doña Casilda
Iturruzar Park.
Opposite Page: Celebrating civic pride in glass at the redeveloped Mercado Ribera.
Above: Pintxos bars abound in the old city and line Calle Ledesma and Calle Diputación in
the Ensanche neighbrurhood..
54 55

Left: the Euskalduna Conference Centre at night, with
the Rio Nervion in the background. Below: Halloween
decorations at a Mercado Ribera bar.
Much of the credit for the success of the re-emergence of Bilbao is linked to Ibon Areso, a
trained architect and planner who has held many city and regional public posts including
Mayor of Bilbao and is currently Chairman of the Zorrotzaure Management
Commission to establish a ‘Creative Island’ — a major urban renewal project following a
masterplan devised by the late Zaha Hadid.
Left: La Concordia station façade 1902, designed by Valentin Gorbeña and Severino
Achúcarro is the terminus for the FEVE narrow gauge railway line. Above: Arenal Kiosk
designed by Pedro Ispizua, a bandstand on Paseo del Arenal with a glass roofed lower level
cafe bar.
56 57

Below: On Plaça Barria [Nueva], the wonderfully ornate Victor Montes bar/restaurant.
Excellent array of pintxos on the bar at very reasonable prices and well priced meals in the
restaurant too. Right: The iconic Cafe Iruña, established in 1903 on Jardines de Albia,
looking towards Ahmed’s kabab corner.
Above: The Museo de Bellas Artes [Fine Arts Museum], founded in 1908 with a new wing
added in 1970 — renovations and improvements in 2001.
58 59

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao and
‘The Bilbao Effect’
The museum has attracted a million visitors a year in every
year since its inauguration. The increase in tax revenue from
tourism has paid for the building many times over. Site
specific art and an ongoing purchasing programme adds
credibility to the museum as a creative entity within the city
and region.
The museum was commissioned by the city
administration as a key element in the post-industrial
redevelopment of Bilbao — one of a number of public and
commercial buildings by well known architects and located
to integrate into the existing urban fabric of the city. Nearby
is Duesto University, the Avenida Abandoibarra/
Paseo Uribitarte riverside park/promenade, the Tranvia
tramway and linking to the Parque Dona Casilda, the
Museo de Bellas Artes and the geometry of the 19th
century city.
The museum has also embraced the food culture of the
region. The ‘nerua’ restaurant within the museum, currently
headed by chef Josean Alija [originally from the city of
Leon] was awarded a Michelin Star in 2011 and three
Repsol ‘sols’. The Bistro offers lighter meals [express or
tasting menu] and pintxos at the Bar and Terrace.
Previous Page: Jeff Koon’s ‘Puppy’ sculpture at the entrance to the Bilbao Guggenheim
Museum has all the planting replaced three times each year. Right: Swirling shapes and
flying walkways add drama to the interior of the Guggenheim Museum. Bottom Right: the
Zubizuri [white bridge] footbridge designed by Santiago Calatrava across the Rio
Nervion.
60 61

Along the River Nervion and beyond
The pedestrian walkways and parkland either side of the
river are the lungs of the city — particularly on Saturday
mornings when cyclists, skaters and walkers throng along the
river and over the Zubizuri footbridge. Down river the
famous Puente-Colgante transporter bridge links the north
and south banks. Beyond the docks and opposite the ferry
terminal [to Portsmouth UK] are the Gexto and Algorta
suburbs with beaches and yacht marinas and at the end of
the Metro Bilboa Line 1 is Plentzia — a charming little
town on a low hill in a curve of the river accessed by a
bridge from the Metro station. Follow the footpath along the
River Plentzia alive with rowers, canoeists and surfers, past
the hospital to the Gorliz end of the beach for the
deceptively unassuming Asador Hodartzape Erretegia
— great for grilled sea food cooked by brother chefs Iker
and Jon while mum Begoña hosts in a sophisticated interior
or basic roof terrace for drinks with a view. Also worth a visit
facing the river towards the Station is the unpretentious
Restaurante Arrarte for an excellent Menu del Dia lunch.
Bilbao Update 2020
The 2007 Zaha Hadid design for the Zorrotzaurre
Development on an island in the Rio Nervion has recently
moved forward with requests for tenders for Unit 1
‘urbanization works’ for the northern end of the island.
Additionally a 2 kilometre walkway has been created on
right bank of the Canal of Deusto, that was reopened to
assist with flood control. New bridges will connect
Zorrotzaurre with both the sides of the waterways.
Above: The harbour at Plentzia. Right: The Metro Logo was created by Otl Aicher and
developed by Michael Weiss and Hans Brucklacher, city stations were designed by a
team led by Norman Foster.
Donostia/San Sebastian
Rebuilt after British military forces sacked and pillaged the
city in the early nineteenth century, it now spreads out
behind the justly famous golden 'Playa La Concha'
together with the smaller 'Playa Ondarreta' and surfing
oriented 'Playa Zurriola'. Popularised by in the 19 th
century by Spanish nobility, today the city is largely
residential comprising mainly of nineteenth and twentieth
century villas and apartment blocks with ground floor bars,
cafes and shops. Hotels in San Sebastian cluster around
Avenida Zumalacárregui, in the Antigua
neighbourhood adjacent to the Ondarreta beach and
towards the city centre end of Playa La Concha.
The proliferation of Michelin starred restaurants in and
around the city and a creative pintxos culture in the bars
throughout the city and beyond adds to the allure of the city
and region as foody heaven.
The narrow gauge EskoTren terminates at
Amara station and the mainline RENFE station is beside
the Rio Urumea in the Gros neighbourhood adjacent to
Highlights
• Playa de La Concha: the main beach is a big sweep
of sand with joggers and cyclists on the busy Paseo de La
Concha promenade above. Residential apartments line the
parallel Paseo de Miraconcha away from the traffic.
• Restaurant de La Concha overlooking the beach and
bay. Menu Del Dia lunch was very good value for money.
• Isla Santa Clara lies in the centre of the bay protecting
the beach and boats at anchor. It can be reached by a
small ferry and has a bar and paths up to the lighthouse.
• Monte Urgul: accessible by paths from the Parte Vieja
— some of which were blocked for safety reasons — up to
the Castillo de la Mota and the Casa de la Historia, a free
museum on the history and development of San Sebastian
housed in the Castillo. The British Army don't come out too
well in the story, but the displays are well presented with a
well made A/V show too.
• Gastronomy: San Sebastian is internationally famous
for the restaurants earning lots of Michelin stars and this
permeates many other establishments.
The 'Playa La Concha' sweeps round from Monte Igeldo to the city centre and Monte
Urgall.
the new bus and coach terminus.
62 63

• The Parte Vieja [Old Town] located where the La
Concha beach terminates with Monte Urgall is a lively
warren of streets, home to numerous bar/restaurants
offering pintxos, raçions and full meals and has become an
essential on the tourist trail.
• 'Todo Pintxos Routes' We’ve visited numerous bars/
restaurants [for research purposes!] including Gandarias
and A Fuego Negro on Calle 31 Augusto; La
Mejillanera and Porteletas on Calle Puerto; on Fermin
Calbeton we dropped in at Txondorra, Goiz Argi,
Manto and Borda Berri. La Cuchara de San Telmo on
Santa Korda Kalea is an institution: a narrow bar with some
outside seating where all food is made to order.
• STM: San Telmo Museum also has a good bar/cafe.
The a 16th century Dominican convent church and cloister
has been refurbished and linked to a new building clad in
'pock-marked' aluminium panels designed by Madrid and
Berlin based Nieto Sobejano Arquitectos.
• Real Club Nautico de San Sebastian built in 1929,
has portholes and a long strip of windows wrapping round
a curved prow — very ‘international’ style — designed by
architects D. José Manuel Aizpurua and D. Joaquin
Labayen. Good for cocktails and sundowners early
evening, then club sounds ‘till early morning!
• Bokado Cafeteria/Restaurant located at the outer end
of the harbour above the Aquarium. Chef Mikel
Santamaria offers fine dining in the restaurant, good views
from the terrace. There are good places to eat in the Centro
quarter and Gros [over the river] too including Ni Neu in
the Kursaal headed by chef Mikel Gallo for innovative
cuisine and a terrace for drinks and pintxos beside the Rio
Urumea promenade.
• Centro recommendations include lively Meson Martin
on Calle Elcano and Oquendo on Calle Oquendo:
featuring a multitude of photographs of famous film people
taken during the San Sebastian Film Festival.
• Zurriola beach has a strong surfing vibe anchored by
the Kursaal, opened in 1999 and designed by architect
Rafael Moneo: a conference and cultural centre with
translucent walls that glow at night.
• Tabakalera International Centre for
Contemporary Culture — Huge space, near the RENFE
train station, converted from a nineteenth century factory
building. It also houses the One Shot Tabakalera House
hotel within the structure. The renewal and renovation
commenced in 2011 to designs by architects Jon &
Naiara Montero. The design introduced a huge glass
‘prism’ above the roof level. Funky Taba bar/cafe on the
ground floor and Labe restaurant and cocktail bar on the
fifth floor.
Digs
The top hotel in San Sebastian is the Hotel Maria
Cristina, situated between the River Urumea, the Victoria
Eugenia Theater and the Centro neighbourhood; closely
followed by Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra
overlooking the Playa la Concha. A new option near the
Real Club Nautico de San Sebastian is the Lasala Plaza
Hotel with a rooftop pool. Our choices have been the
Hotel Codina on Avenida Zumalacárregui, nice rooms
and top floor balconies, but with a lot of street noise; and
the Hotel Ezeiza, plain rooms and quite expensive for
what you get, but a good location — almost direct access
to Ondarreta Beach.
Far Left: Antigua locality with Hotel San Sebastian to the left and Isla Santa Clara in the bay.
Above Left: The 100 year old Funicular Monte Igueldo. Above: One of the ‘Wind Cones’
sculptures by Eduardo Chillida terminating the promenade below Monte Igeldo. Left: Monte
Igeldo topped with the Mercure San Sebastián Monte Igueldo Hotel, Real Club Tenis
and the Wimbledon bar/cafe and Branka bar/restaurants all on Eduardo Chillida
Pasealekua.
64 65

Right: Al fresco drinks at ‘KOK’ bar/restaurant offering pinxtos and small plates in the Antigua
area. Below: Bokado cafeteria and terrace at the ‘AQVARIVM’. Bottom: Tapas at the Ni Neu
restaurant at the Kursaal Convention Centre.
Top left: Branka [or Nam]restaurant, below Monte Igueldo on Paseo Eduardo Chillida and
linked to the RCTSS Real Club Tenis San Sebastian. Above: Gandaria bar laden with pintxos —
hot offers are on the chalkboard. Right: Betijai Berria offers contemporary pinxtos in the Parte
Vieja.
66 67

Top: The Kursaal lit up for the Film Festival. Right: Playa Zurriola, popular with surfers and
dogs! n the background is the breakwater for the Rio Urumea, the edge of the Casco Viejo and
Monte Urgull.
Panorama of Donostia/San Sebastian from Monte Igeldo round to Monte Urgall: The
sweep of La Concha d’Oro beach with Playa Ondaretta beach and the tip of the Antigua
district to the far right; beyond Monte Urgall can just be glimpsed the Playa Zurriola Beach,
beyond that is Monte Ulia. The majority of buildings surrounding the bay are apartment blocks
some with ground floor shops.
68 69

Hondarribia
Called Fuenterrabia in Spanish, is a small town on the
estuary of the Rio Bidasoa [forming the border with
France] is another centre for wonderful prize winning
pintxos. It has a smart promenade along the river frontage
with a few bar/cafes and the main streets are brightly
painted older style properties with oriel windows in the
Basque style. Lots of bars and restaurants are on the
pedestrianised Santiago Kalea and an old town area
crowning the hill leading to the castle, now the Parador
de Hondarribia. Other ‘palacio’ hotels are the Hotel
Palacete and Hotel Obispo. You can catch a little ferry
across the river to the marina at Hendaye in France for
some good views of the old buildings. Alamada is the top
awarded restaurant [one Michelin star] others include
Arroka Berri, Sebastian and Zeria. Bar Gran Sol is a
top pintxos bar/restaurant [Michelin recommend] that has
an amazing array of food on the bar and excellent hot
pintxos to order. We booked a wonderful meal at Abarka
located in a typical steep roofed house in a quiet
residential street — we thought the food deserved a
Michelin star or Repsol ‘sol’. The modern marina has a
number of bars and restaurants overlooking the boats and
a deep sandy beach on the other side of the breakwater
and parking area. There’s also a Blues Festival each
summer!
View of the walled old town and parish church of Santa
Maria de la Asuncion y del Manzano. Initiated in 1474
it’s construction was hampered by the need to fortify the town
thus the first phase was consecrated in 1549 with further works
to the tower in 1766. Final restoration and modifications
carried out in 1910.
Digs
We’ve stayed at the very friendly Hotel Palacete on the
Plaza de Gipuzkoa within the old town and the luxury
boutique Villa Magalean on Calle Nafarroa Behera with
a view across the river to France — very stylish! We also
dipped in to the Parador de Hondarribia — an
imposing, gaunt edifice on the Plaza de Armas, also
known as the Castle of Charles V, this fortress dates back
to the 10 th century, but now has all the facilities expected of
the Paradors throughout Spain.
Left: The groundfloor lounge at Villa Magalean. Above:The Palacete Hotel in the Plaza de
Gizupkoa.
70 71

Above: Prize winning pintxos Gorka SoIt is a whole cod pintxo in three textures:
a crispy skin, a shelled low-temperature cod and a brandade, which are accompanied by three
sauces: smoked mayonnaise, black garlic aioli and red pepper, lime and chili jam. Created by
chefs Gorka Souto and Martín Merino of Bar Sardana. Left: Another creative take on ‘Bar
Snacks’ from Bar Sardana.
Above: Pintxos at Bar Gran Sol from chefs Mikel Muñoz and Mika Pop.
Right: The huge selection of pintxos for lunchtime and early evening at Bar Gran Sol.
Far right: dessert at Arroka Berri restaurant, Hondarribia.
72 73

Getaria
This intriguing mix of small fishing port, charming town and
internationally recognised museum is some 15 kilometres
from Donostia/San Sebastian. Getaria is perched on a
rocky outcrop with the port to one side and the curve of
Gaztetape beach on the other. The streets leading down to
the port are lined with old houses with numerous bar/cafe/
restaurant options featuring grilled fish and seafood.
Restaurant Elcano is the top listed restaurant [1 Michelin
star]. Restaurant Mayflower overlooking the port is good
for an evening meal. Politena is good for pintxos. Asador
Astillero, above the artisanal fish products and wine shop
on the harbourside — is popular with locals but has mixed
reviews online. The church is famous both for it's angled
floor and it's historical connections with Gipuzkoa province.
Most famous son is Juan Sebastián Elcano [1476-1526]
who completed Magellan’s circumnavigation of the world
[1521-22]. The celebrated couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga
was born in Getaria in 1895. He learned his trade in San
Sebastian, retaining a link with the city until his retirement in
the late 1960's. His life and work is celebrated in the
recently established museum, designed by AV62
Architects [Toño Foraster]: the dramatic black building
attached to the Palacio Aldamar overlooking Getaria.
There are open-air escalators to help you up the hill to the
museum entrance.
Nagusia Kalea and church of San Salvador in Getaria.
Digs
We’ve stayed at the charming Hotel Saiz Getaria —
converted from a 15 th century tower overlooking
Gaztetape beach within the old town walls located on
Roke Deuna. A charming lounge complements the rooms
for guests.
Above : Inshore fishing boats and view back to Getaria. Right: Deep sea fishing vessel with
fishing poles for tuna fishing.
74 75

Above:Vintage photograph of Brigitte Bardot modelling a
Balenciaga dress. Right display of dresses designed by
Christobal Balenciaga in the permanent collection of the
Museum.
Above Taberna Giroa on Nagusia. An outdoor grill for fresh fish is located in a doorway to the
right. Right: Entry desk and lobby to the Balenciaga Museum.
76 77

Gernika
On April 26, 1937 Gernika was bombed
indiscriminately by German and Italian forces. Pablo
Picasso's Guernica famous painting reflects the full
barbarity of the bombing. The bombing was on a
Monday, which was — and still is — market day.
The town, inland between San Sebastian and Bilbao,
has a Peace Museum [Museo de la Paz] reflecting
this tragic event and worldwide efforts for future peace.
For a day out from the city, the Eskotren from Bilbao
to Bermeo stops at Gernika; the town is now a centre for
regional cuisine and produce — maintaining the regular
market every Monday with two special events every
October and themed food festivals on the first Saturday
of the month from June to December: Idiazabal cheese
and Txakoli de Urdaibai wine; Gernika Peppers;
Salt cod and Rioja Alavesa wine; Rabbit and
Bizkaia cider; Sukalki Day: [a veal stew]; Gernika
Beans; The Snail Fair!
It also has the biggest working Jai Alai [Pelota]
court in the world. Jai Alai means ‘merriment’ in Basque,
players use a hand scoop making it the worlds’ fastest
ball sport.
We caught the October Sukalki fair: the the town
was full of people of all ages dressed in traditional
costume and celebrating 'everything Basque' — on our
enquiry at the Tourist Office. There were groups of
singers, parades of old and young playing drums and
pipes, people dressed as monsters and Basque sports
including log chopping, weight lifting, sack carrying, tug
of war and hitting a metal plate on your head —
followed by a big party in the market hall and much
cider drinking! Some very good restaurants serving
excellent pintxos and high quality, unpretentious local
cuisine. We dropped into the Arrien Taberna —
impressed by the Pintxos on the bar and locals in the
dining room we joined them for a very good lunch.
Check out 1000 kolorau for gourmet dining.
Monsters and music at the October Sukalki Festival in Gernika. Locals don monster and
traditional costumes and are entertained by folk music and dancing — plus numerous Basque
rural sports [Herri Kirolak]. Winners are awarded a beret [txapela]!
78 79

3: Madrid
A capital city of grand vistas, museums, parks and late, late nights.
Arrive in central Madrid by airport shuttle bus, train or
Metro and you are immediately in the grand boulevards
cut through the old city in the early 20th century and
surrounded by a mix of post-classical and contemporary
architecture — and vast amounts of traffic!
Highlights
• Grand Via, the main artery of the city, kinked to cater
for a few immovable religious buildings when initiated in
the late 19 th century, It was not completed until 1929.
Recently it has undergone some essential pedestrianisation
— improvements challenged by more conservative political
forces.
• Madrid Rio linear park project, opened in 2011 is a
universally approved permanent make-over of the banks of
the Rio Manzanares — achieved by burying the M30
motorway to create the 10 kilometre long park. Design
team: Burgos & Garrido, Porras La Casta, Rubio &
Álvarez-Sala and West 8.
• New Terminal Area [NAT] at the Madrid Adolfo
Suárez Barajas Airport completed in 2006 to designs
by the then Richard Rogers Partnership and Estudio
Lamela. It’s connected to the city centre by train, metro
and city buses.
• Atocha Station has a tropical garden in the original
building remodelled by architect Rafael Moneo in 1992
together with an adjacent new terminus for high speed,
regional and suburban trains.
• Madrid Metro is extensive with 12 lines throughout the
city and into the suburbs and trains running until 1.30am.
• El Palacio de la Equitativa [subsequently the Banco
Español de Crédito] and the next door Banco Hispano
Americano building are being restored and ‘reimagined’
as the Centro Canelejas: a luxury hotel, office, residential
and retail development of 7 adjacent buildings, the
architects are Estudio Lamela.
• Gastronomy: the ‘Gastrofestival 2020’ was held in
February and March — lots of themed events and
participation by 500+ organisations big and small. The city
lists 17 municipal markets including Mercado San Miguel
refurbished in 2009 [or 2011?] others have been converted
— Platea was a cinema — or newly built like Mercado de
San Ildefonso on a pre-existing market site.
Opposite Page: Centro Canalejas is the flatiron shaped
building recently renamed — originally El Palacio de la
Equitativa [an Insurance Company] designed by Josep
Grases Riera in 1887, now repurposed as the Four
Seasons Hotel, opening 2020 together with other
adjacent buildings to form a mixed use development. Left:
Rio Manzanares, the Royal Palace, Campo del Moro
park and Cathedral Almudena from the Teleférico de
Madrid, prior to the Madrid Rio project. The cable car
takes you from Parque del Oeste to the Casa de
Campo. Below: the Royal Palace, built on the site of the
Moorish Alcazar; the present building was completed in
1764 to designs by Filippo Juvarra, Giambattista
Sacchetti and Francisco Sabatini. Garden design by
Ramón Oliva.
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• Art: The Prado, Reina Sofia Museum and Thyssen-
Bornemisza top the list too numerous to include here.
• Circulo de Bellas Artes on Calle Alcalá for a
changing exhibition programme or dining and drinking at
the La Pecera and Azotea del Circulo rooftop restaurant
and bar — both have mixed reviews online.
• Retiro Park that has a big[ish] boating lake — looks a
lot of fun and also home to the Glass Palace designed by
Ricardo Velázquez Bosco and erected in 1887 now
used by the Reina Sofía Museum. We happened upon an
exhibition of fashions made from paper.
• Casa de Campo was previously an aristocratic and
royal hunting park now home to an amusement park, lake,
zoo and an Olympic size outdoor swimming pool in
summer.
• Madrid Telepherique cable car is good fun, wizzing
over the river and the Casa del Campo park, then walk
down the hill.
Far Left: La Forja de Sesnández restaurant run for 50 years by Ángel Andrés and his family.
Lower left: Casa Labra bar/restaurant established 1860, near Puerta del Sol, specialising in
cod dishes. Lower Left: Casa Botin claims to be the oldest restaurant in the world.
Digs
Madrid is the third largest city in Europe and promotes itself
as a cool gastronomic scene with a wild nightlife. Many
new build hotels or repurposed buildings have been utilised.
We stayed at what is now the Melia ME Madrid Reina
Victoria on Plaza de Santa Ana, apparently once home to
visiting bullfighters. CNT lists 21 top hotels including the
Westin Palace, the Principal, the Gran Hotel Inglés, the
Wellington, NH Collection Madrid Palacio de Tepa and
Hotel Santo Mauro.
Traditional shops in central Madrid still catering for the local population. The sign for El Gato
Negro announces a knitting wool shop.
82 83

Left: The Glass Palace, Buen Retiro Park. The metal and glass structure was designed by
Ricardo Velázquez Bosco and built in 1887 to house the Plants from the Philippines
Exhibition and inspired by Paxton’s Crystal Palace. Now administered by Museo Nacional
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía for temporary exhibitions. [Tourist Board Photo]. Below left:
example of fashions created from paper at an exhibition at the Glass Palace. Below: Plaza
Mayor, formerly Plaza del Arrabal, rebuilt in 1617 to designs of Juan Gomez de Mora,
devastated by fire in 1790 and reconstructed to designs by Juan de Villanueva.
Left: Ornate commercial building in central Madrid with public basement car park and sign
for FC Madrid Ticket sales.. Above: La Casa del Bacalao: dried cod shop. Above right:
Sign for Mercado de San Miguel, erected in 1915 to a design by Alfonso Dubé y Diaz
— now with over 30 gastronomic stalls plus fresh produce, traditional foods and packaged
provisions.
84 85

4: València
A vibrant city with beach life and nearby natural parks.
Valencia is big — it’s the third largest urban area in Spain
with between 1.7 and 2.5 million inhabitants [depending
on definition]. A tightly knit warren of streets comprising the
historical centre [Roman/Moorish/Mediaeval roots] is
surrounded by 19th and 20th century boulevards with
streets of ornate mansion blocks and modern apartments
on either side of the Turia Gardens — the former bed of
the River Turia. The river was redirected in the 1960’s and
the original route is now a 9 km long linear park and the
green lungs of the city. Valencia also hosts the largest
container port on the Mediterranean and is surrounded by
an agricultural region producing food that has influenced
the culture of the city.
Valencia has fast trains to Madrid from the new[ish]
Joaquin Sorolla station and a regional network from
Valencia Nord. A Metro system, more useful for
connecting to the suburbs and some tram lines. But more
importantly for visitors, a great bus network. There is also a
bike rental scheme ‘Valenbisi’ and many bike rental
shops. Bikes [and electric scooters] are big in city in
addition to cycling through the Turia Gardens.
Las Arenas and Malvarrosa beaches extend for
miles north from the port and marina with basic beach bars
and sun-lounger concessions every few hundred metres
near the water line. The pedestrian Paseo Maritim runs
parallel to the beach, initially lined with restaurants, hotels
and shops. To the south is the more rugged La Garrofera
beach backed with sand dunes and pine forests and a few
facilities to La Saler and beyond, part of the La Albufera
Natural Park.
Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía Opera House, completed in 2006 as part of the Ciudad
de las Artes y las Ciencias in the Turia Gardens designed by Valencia born architect
Santiago Calatrava.
Above: The Umbracle, another Calatrava design is an open access garden above a car
park — open at night in the summer for drinks .
86 87

Highlights
• Turia Gardens: A fantastic asset for city centre
residents and tourists alike. Local joggers and cycling tour
groups make prominent use of the pathways, kids love the
giant Gulliver climbing feature and slides. Towards the
eastern end is the futuristic Ciudad de las Artes y las
Ciencias: a group of buildings designed by local hero and
world renowned star architect Santiago Calatrava.
• Mercado de Colon: A beautiful ‘modernista’ style
building designed by Francisco Mora opened in 1916
and sympathetically restored and stabilised in the 1990's. A
different take on the gastro-market concept: each option has
its own seating — manic at weekends.
• Mercado Central: Devoted to all things culinary and
remains a real city centre food shopping venue plus a few
bars and take-away food offers.
• El Albero Taberna Andaluza: On the corner of Calle
del Conde de Altea and Calle de Ciscar offering typical
Andalusian tapas. Very busy on weekend evenings: table
reservations essential.
• EMA Bus Card: Great deals for round the city and to
the beaches. Purchase a 10 journey card from a street kiosk.
• Restaurante El Menjar Amb Viracre at the Musee
de Belles Artes: Great value fixed price menu and
reasonably priced wine in a walled patio — efficiently
served by the very professional staff.
• Hotel Neptuno : On the Paseo Maritim — very
groovy with a big Jeff Koons balloon dog sculpture —
great for chilling after all the effort of sunning yourself on the
beach!
• El Corte Inglés: The top floor restaurant has open views
of Valencia rooftops. The supermarket had some excellent
vermouths.
• Valencia Airport: Another Calatrava design — easy to
get through and with some good facilities airside. Food and
drinks were reasonably priced .
• Kiosco La Pergola: A busy little bar on a busy corner
of Paseo Alameda and Placa del Real opposite the
Viveros Gardens. Famed for the 'Super Bon-Bon' a
huge pile of food on a toasted baguette.
Left: The main façade of the Mercado Colon. The lower level
has produce outlets plus bars and restaurants. Below: The
Hemisphere, another design by Calatrava, in the Ciudad de
las Artes y las Ciencias has an audio-visual show.
• Books and Blogs: Jason Webster is the
acknowledged authority on things Spanish [married to a
Flamenco dancer!] Great crime books based in Valencia
suggest a seamier side to life in the city. 91 Days is the best
blog on Valencia by Jūrgen and Mike, who have
adopted the city as their home and offer some great
suggestions for less ‘touristy’ bars, cafes and restaurants,
lesser known cultural institutions and days out.
Digs
Valencia is not short of hotels: the Westin Valencia and
boutique Caro top the list plus numerous chains: Barcelo,
Melia, NH, Vincci and our choice the Hospes Palau del
Mar on Avinguda de Navarro Reverter,— a beautifully
repurposed mansion and garden extension in a great
location — just one block from the Turia Gardens and for
getting to the city centre or the beaches by bus and bike or
walking through the gardens.
Left: Valencia City Centre, beaches and beyond; the Turia Gardens curve round
old city centre, the redirected river is now to the south .
88 89

Previous Page: Mercado Central main entrance, inaugurated in 1928 to designs by architects
Alejandro Soler March and Francisco Guardia Vial and banner in the main walkway in
Mercado Central. Above: tile mural in one of the side walls of Mercado Central.
90 91

Left: The Horchateria de Santa Catalina — for traditional drinks based on tiger nuts and
cinnamon. Above: traditional style tiled advertisement on a wine merchants’ shop nearby. Right: El
Albero Taberna Andaluza: On the corner of Calle del Conde de Altea and Calle de
Ciscar, very busy on weekend evenings — reservations for outdoor tables essential.
92 93

5: Rioja Wine Tour
Following the River Ebro to Logroño through the
Rioja Alavesa wine region + Basque capital city: Vitoria Gastiez
Above: The amazing Frank Gehry designed hotel at the Marques de Riscal bodega in
Elciego in the Basque Alava region owned and managed by Marriot. Right: Marques de
Riscal wines in the bodega storage facility. With a 150 year history, Marqués de Riscal is the
oldest bodega of the Rioja appellation started in 1858 by Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga,
Marqués de Riscal, diplomat and writer. The current technical director is Don Francisco Javier
Hurtado de Amézaga.
Rioja Alavesa is the Basque [Alava province] wine
denomination with Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja largely to the
south of the Rio Ebro. Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja comprise the
Rioja Autonomous Region — Logroño is the region's
administrative centre.
The Araba-Álava Province is the most
southerly part of the Basque Region. Situated on the lower
slopes of the Sierra de Toloño down to the Rio Ebro, the
Rioja Alavesa vines are interspersed with small villages and
towns built of honey coloured stone and some outstanding
contemporary wineries — wine and modern architecture —
what a combination! The Rioja Alavesa Wine Route
[spain.info] on-line guide is an excellent resource to
enhance your visit. Alternatively, the free on-line guide to La
Rioja produced by Basque Tourism [euskadi.eus] in the
region is well catered for with agro-tourism home stays,
hotels and pensions offering accommodation; bars, cafes
and restaurants in the towns and villages plus wine tastings
and pairings at the wineries. Other offers include canoeing,
hiking and cycling through the vineyards. The Villa
Laguardia hotel offers a Wine Spa experience!
There are numerous wineries to visit; most require
advance booking. We visited Bodegas Biagorri: the
amazing glass pavilion entrance leads to cathedral like
underground production and storage facilities designed by
Basque architect Iñaki Aspiazu; Bodegas Viña Real:
has a huge barrel like production building with a central
crane and storage facilities in caves blasted into the
mountainside and Marques de Riscal has a traditional
winery with 19th century storage contrasting with an iconic
hotel designed by the US architect Frank Gehry in 2006.
Another design icon is the Hotel Viura designed by
Joseba & Xabier Aramburu. Opened in 2010 the hotel
comprises a stack of irregular concrete shapes shoehorned
into the small village of Villabuena de Alava — resulting
in intriguing spaces and a friendly hostelry. For information
on buying Rioja wines in the UK, see The Wine Society
guide: www.thewinesociety.com/resources/
downloads/how_to_buy/HowtoBuyRioja.pdf.
94 95

Vitoria-Gastiez
En route from Bilbao to the Rioja Region V-G is surrounded by
an alpine landscape of rolling pine covered mountainsides and
farmhouses with balconies and steeply pitched roofs. The city is
the Capital of the Basque Autonomous Region. It’s also
the host of the 2020 Campeonato de Pintxos
Tradicionales Euskadi & Navarra competition. Reflecting
the concentration of over 100 bars, cafes and restaurants on
the hilltop 'Casco Viejo' of concentric narrow streets and the
surrounding boulevards. On a sunny Sunday afternoon a
festival atmosphere was palpable: people were spilling out of
the bars, cafes and restaurants with drinks, exotic pinxtos and
ice creams having a wonderful late lunch in typical Basque
style. The Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, the adjacent Plaza
Espana and Calle Cucharilla are lined with contemporary
and traditional establishments. The V-G tourist information has a
very good Gastronomic Map, A modern tram line weaves
it's way through the city and the street leading to the mainline
rail station has traditional ornate confectionery shops and more
bar/cafes known for quality pinxtos. The Parador de
Argómaniz is just a few miles away. This 18th century
Renaissance palace, situated on a rise in the landscape has
walls of sandstone ashlar alternating with masonry and an
Arab-tile hip roof. Previously it belonged to the large and
influential Larrea family. The large loft lounge and dining room
has exposed beams, the only roof support, resting on rows of
solid wooden pillars and held together with wooden dowels.
Nice lunch venue.
Digs
La Casa de los Arquillos — a small 'boutique' hotel recently
converted from workshops in an ancient arcaded building
overlooking the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. The hotel
occupies part of the top two floors [no lift] and has a very
contemporary styling. Our room was spacious and the main
window overlooking the square had double, double glazing
ensuring a very quiet night's sleep. Breakfast was a simple affair
of fresh orange juice, fruit, coffee and toast in the top floor
communal space lit by skylights in the roof.
Previous page upper: Closing time in the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. The statue with the
umbrella exemplifies the climate — it rains a lot in Vitoria-Gastiez! Previous page lower:
Bandstand in the Parque Florida — one of sixin the ‘Green Belt’ surrounding the city. Above top:
Mural in the historical centre of the city. Above: Dining room of the Parador de Argómaniz. Left:
Art Nouveau styled confectionery shop Goya Bonboneria. Founded in 1886 by Manuel
Goya now owned bt the v5th generation of the family. Famous for 'Vasquitos and Nesquitas'
chocolates.
96 97

The Rioja Alavesa Wine Route
The Rioja Alavesa Wine Route follows the A124 between Brinas and the outskirts of
Previous page: Lounge with ceiling décor at Hotel Viura. Below: the Entrance to the Hotel Viura
in Villabuena de Alava. Note the village reflected in the windows and the sustainable dry
garden planted through gravel and boulders.
Logroño. The meandering Rio Ebro forms much of the border with the larger Rioja Alta
denomination.
98 99

Opposite page left:: The hilltop town of Briones is just south of the Rio Ebro. In the foreground
is the entrance to the Dinastia Vivancia winery and Museum of Wine Culture. Above left:
Siesta time in Briones. The entrance to Los Calaos hostal/rural restaurant is on the right.
Above right: Perfect for vines, the Rioja Alavesa landscape looking south towards the Rio
Ebro and the Rioja Alava denomination.
100 101

Above: Pedestrian entrance to Bodegas Viña Real, between Guardia and Logroño. Right:
Barrels in caves blasted into the mountainside. The facility was designed by French architect
Philippe Mazières, it is composed of three buildings: the main space in red cedar in the form of a
fermenting vat, the bottling hall and the caves dug to store the wine. Owned by the Compañía
Vinícola del Norte de España (CVNE), the Viña Real brand was launched in the 1920s.
Looking across the vines at Bodegas Biagorri towards the village of Samaniego.
102 103

Escutcheon for Ramirez de Ganuza winery based in Samaniego, Álava with selected vineyards
in various hamlets in the the area. Established in 1989, the bodega sprang from a personal bet
made by its founder, Fernando Remírez de Ganuza, previously responsible for buying and
selling former vineyards to develop a business based on new developments and innovations. In
2010 Jose Ramon Urtasun joined the enterprise. Below: the Rio Ebro offers irrigation to the
region and a facility for sport and tourism.
Above: Entrance pavilion at Bodegas Biagorri. Right: Restaurant dining room overlooking the
vineyards at Bodegas Biagorri, Next Page: Stainless steel vinification vessels at Bodegas
Biagorri. Founded in 2002 and owned by Pedro Martinez the winery was designed to utilise
gravity to reduce mechanical handling of grapes and the flow of wine.
104 105

Far left: The main street in Vanguardia. Left: Brinas son the banks of the Rio Ebro.
Labastida: Palacio del Ayuntamiento (Casa Consistorial). A baroque building started in
1732 on the Plaza de las Paz adjacent to the Palacio de los Salazar now the Casa de la Cultura
de Labastida. It was built between 1730 and 1745, by the master Agustín de Azcárraga and
the stonemason .
106 107

Logroño
Finally to Logroño the capital city of the autonomous
region and province of La Rioja. It is also the region's most
populated town and its financial, cultural and service
centre. Important historically as a crossing point on the River
Ebro for The Way of St. James — Camino de
Photograph Rioja Tourism
Photograph Hotel Calle Major
Photograph Rioja Tourism
Santiago Compostela with several large churches built in
the 12th century and today a preponderance of 'pilgrims' in
the city. Churches include San Bartololome and the 15th
century Cathedral of Santa Maria de la Redonda. The
city also has several parks: Paseo del Príncipe de
Vergara known as Paseo del Espolón and both
Parque del Ebro and Parque de La Ribera, bordering
the Rio Ebro. The Museum of Rioja [Ethnographical and
Historical] is housed in the Palacio Espartero, a building
commissioned by Don Pedro Ruiz de la Porta in the 18 th
century.
Logroño has it’s own take on pintxos or pinchos
in Castillian on Calle Laurel and Calle San Juan de
Logroño are the main streets — over 50 in just a few
hundred metres. Logroño has it's own pintxos competition
Concurso de Pinchos de la Rioja with over 70
competitors just from establishments in the city. On Calle
Laurel both Bar Soriano and Bar El Cid are famous for
grilled mushrooms, La Taberna del Tío Blas has a more
creative take; La Tavina is a bar, restaurant and wine shop
too; La Tasca del Pato for txangurritos – spider crab
fishcakes, and grilled white asparagus wrapped in local
cheese. On Calle San Agustín, Patatas Bravas at Bar El
Top Left: Left: Entrance of Hotel Calle Mayor. Left: New High Speed Rail Station designed
by architects Abalos+Sentkiewicz. [Photo from the practice website]. Above: Bodegas
Darien - built in 2007, designed by Jesus Marino Pascual, abandoned when we visited.
Below: the Puente de Práxedes Mateo Sagasta built in 2003/4 over the Rio Ebro on
the outskirts of Logroño with ‘flying’ pedestrian walkways. Designed by engineers Francisco
Javier Manterola Armisen and Miguel Ángel Gil.
Soldado De Tudelilla are recommended. Top restaurant
choice with a Guia Repsol 'Sol' is La Cucina de Ramon.
Concentrico is Logroño’s International
Festival of Architecture and Design that proposes to
reflect on the urban environment and the city. Concéntrico
06, was held from 3 to 6 September 2020
Promotions for the 2019 & 2020 'Pinchos de la Rioja' competition.
Photograph Rioja Tourism
108 109

Extra+ Hora de Vermut
The new old drink of the moment.
What is vermouth? — like the original Italian product,
vermouth usually comprises a wine base with added herbs
and ‘botanicals’ including wormwood — the word derived
from the German ‘wormgüt’ for wormwood. The wine base
can be Albarino in Galicia, Tempranillo in Catalonia or a
Sherry base in Andalusia.
•Packaging — in addition to 70/75cl or litre bottles,
some brands are also available in 1.5 and 2 litre plastic
bottles, 5 litre plastic barrels and bag-in-boxes — or ‘en
barril’ straight from the wood — always [attempt] to ask for
‘vermut de la casa’ — from the barrel or the unmarked bottle
from under the counter!
•How to serve it — neat in a short glass with a large
block of ice and a twist of orange — or a speared olive in
addition. OK with soda — cue revival of traditional glass
syphons, or as main element in various cocktails.
1•Galicia
Vermouth in all four corners of Spain
•Nordesía made by GoDrinks based in Vedra, near A
Corũna. Red Nordesía is produced from Galician Mencía
grapes; the Albariño grape is the basis for Nordesía
White.
•Bodegas Lodeiros, near Santiago de Compostela
follow a recipe from 1940: Vermello red vermouth spends
30 days in oak barrels. Vermu Branco white is bright
yellow maturing to a golden colour.
•St Petroni from Padrón is made from Albariño grapes
infused with 29 plants.
2•Asturias
•Bodegas Fernández in Pelúgano produce Vermouth
Robertini, a ‘solera’ vermouth aged for a minimum of 14
months in oak casks that are are topped up due to contact
with the wood.
• Cidres Castañón in Quintueles near Villaviciosa make
the unusual Roxmut based on cider.
3•Basque Region
•Txurrut is based mainly on native Txakoli Hondarribi Zuri
grapes orange and lemon and 20 aromatic herbs.
Available as 'Txurrut Vintage' and 'Txurrut Vintage
Zuria’. Produced in Sopuerta, just west of Bilbao.
Above: Classic serving at the Circolo des Arts, Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Above right: Vermu
Nordesia ‘Cecaelia’ character: part Bacchus, part Neptune, part Eolo and part octopus. Right:
Zarro Ecologico from Madrid [© GoDrinks, Bodegas Lodeiros and Zarro].
Padró in Bràfim near Reus have made vermouth for over
100 years and recently redesigned the bottle for Myrrha
and launched 4 premium vermouths from very sweet and
•Acha established in 1831 make red and white Atxa
Vermouth, based on a 100 year old recipe using Airén,
the ‘workhorse’ grape grown throughout Spain.
8 years before infusion with botanicals.
110 111
very dry. [Courtesy Padro]
4•Castile and León
•Perdõn in León promotes la Ruta del Perdõn!
•Bodega Bierzo in nearby Cacabelos produce Vermut
Guerra.
•Vermouth Golfo is made in Burgos from overripe
Temperanillo grapes from Ribera del Duero. It’s aged in
barrel to a mahogany colour.
5•Madrid
•Bodegas Sanviver’s brand Zarro is also available in
the a limited edition Vermouth Único and an Ecologico/
Organic style and have La Vermuneta mobile bars in old
Citroen vans for events.
•Vermut Zeccini is available in a wide range of styles
plus American oak barrels. Both have ‘La Ruta del
Vermouth’ promotions in bars round the city.
6•Andalusia
Bodegas Cruz Conde in Montilla south of Cordoba
produces a Vermouth Special Selection based on Pedro
Ximénez grapes. Their 'Bodegas de Arcos' space is
available for events. The Montilla Moriles Ruta del Vino
is a promotion for on site tastings. Also in Montilla are
Bodegas Alvear — founded in 1729 is the oldest winery
in Andalusia and utilise Pedro Ximénez grapes. They
produce both a red and white vermouth.
In Jerez de la Frontera, González Byass make La Copa
from an original 1896 recipe that includes over 8 year old
Oloroso and PX with the usual botanicals. Vermut Lustau
is made in association with the Caballero family distillers. It
contains Amontillado and PX, both over 10 years old and
numerous botanicals. All the botanicals are macerated
separately and later blended together.
Duque de Diano: Genaro Cala: based on old Oloroso
and PX wines from the old family bodega of Francisco Cala,
made to an old 19th century family recipe with over 20
botanicals and barrel aged in its own solera.
Vermut Amillo bottles rare old sherries and brandy under
the name of Coleccion Roberto Amillo. The vermouth is
made from 18 year old Oloroso and PX with over 30
botanicals; Williams & Humbert introduced Canasta
Rosso in 2008 - based on Canasta Cream, a blend of
Oloroso and PX with an average age of over six years
macerated with 27 botanicals and aged in oak barrels for
And there’s more . . .
Right across Spain, wineries and distilleries are producing
vermouth: Bodegas Martinez Lacuesta who make
Lacuesta Vermouth in Haro, a major wine town of the
Rioja region. In Valls near Zaragoza, west of Barcelona,
Vermut Montseta produce a red, white and reserve
vermouth. Vermut Turmeon is made at Morata de Jalón
and Bodegas Valdepablo in Terrer also near Zaragoza
produce Vermouth Luis The Marinero — a modernised
version of their classic style vermouth from 1928.
Vermut Bertsolari, although using a Basque word for it’s
name [a traditional poet or singer] is actually made in
Catalonia.
In Barcelona is Vermouth Chappó and local
Vermouth Domingo. Espinaler, established in 1896 in
Vilassas de Mar, Barcelona, sell red, white or a reserve
vermouth. Morro Fi also sell provisions in addition to their
own vermouth. The Casa Mariol bar vermouth is on tap or
in bottles; similarly Can Cisa is a shop with Bar Brutal at
the rear offering their own vermouth. Near Tarragona south
of Barcelona are Vermouth de Luna in Sarral; Vermut
Medusa in La Secuita; Vermut dos Deus in Bellmunt del
Priorat; Vermut Olave made by Tiechienne in Bellvei del
Penedès; De Falset made by Cooperativa Falset Marçà in
Falset and Vermut Iris is made by De Muller in Reus. The
popular Vermut Miro, established in 1957, is also
produced in Reus. Miro offer a range of vermouths in
bottle, miniatures, bag-in-box, a vermu cola and Miro
Pearls that melt in the mouth! Another major brand:
Yzaguirre often available on draft and more traditionally
packaged Vermouth Francisco Simó & Cia are made
by Seller Sort del Castle at the village of El Morell and
have a website and an online shop.
Further south in Aielo de Malferit near Valencia,
Bodegas Alonso Sanz make the stylishly packaged
Vermouth 4 Xavos.
To the far west of Andalusia, Vermut Oliveros in
Bollullos Par del Condado between Seville and Huelva use
the local Zalema, Palomino Fino and for their Reserva,
Pedro Ximenez grapes. Barbadillo Atamán is a vermouth
trademark registered by Bodegas Barbadillo in January
1943 and revived in 2017 as a group of four traditional
products in half bottles.

The International Society for the Preservation and
Enjoyment of Vermut co-founded by food writer and
blogger Marti Buckley Kilpatrick and Maite Roso offer
tours of bars in San Sebastian.
Check out Ultracomeda in Aberystwyth, Mid Wales, UK
for a great selection of vermouths — possibly the best in the
UK: Acha, Alvear, Barbadillo, Goyesco, Lacuesta,
Marianito, Myrrha, Padro, Pimpillo, Siderit and Zarro
including Zarro in 5 Litre boxes! www.ultracomida.co.uk.
Above, left to right: Web sites for bars in Barcelona
specialising in Vermouth, both branded and ‘under-thecounter’
homemade offerings. Many bars are little more than
the width of the door from the street. Other Barcelona
recommends include Gran Bar Salto and La Bodega d’en
Rafael. Far left: Vermut Lodeiros Vermello from near
Santiago de Compostela. Left: One of the Vermuteria
mobile bars offering the range of Zarro vermouths around
Madrid.
Top: Home page of the website of the Museo del Vermut in Reus near Tarragona in Catalonia
province, it displays the history of vermouth and has a bar/restaurant with sponsored tasting
areas. . Above: Nordesia range of Vermouth. Left: Lodeiros countertop ‘Barrel’ to contain a 5
Litre Bag in Box. Above right: Vermouth Alvear produced in the Monte-Morilles region of
Andalusia.
112 113

6: Palma de Mallorca City Centre Break
Above: La Seu, the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma 1229 — 1601, minor additions
by Antoni Gaudi between 1901-14. The Cathedral now sits above the Parc de la Mar
with the Royal Palace of La Almudaina on the left and the Bishops Palace to the right
with views towards the Bay of Palma. Right: Vermut is the drink of the moment in Vermuterias
— specialist bars and cafes in Palma de Mallorca!
Palma de Mallorca has capitalised on the trend for citycentre
vacations and gained a reputation for excellent
cuisine — with Michelin starred restaurants in the city and
beyond and high quality tapas in the bars/cafes/
restaurants — complementing the flurry of city centre hotels
opening in refurbished palacios and town houses.
The historic city centre of Palma is a warren of narrow
streets and passages that has recently been rediscovered
with new bars, cafes and restaurants opening in areas that
were less than salubrious previously.
We’ve drawn some maps of walking routes from our
base at the Hotel Posada Terra Sant and the locations
of bars and restaurants nearby. Some feature in the Ruta
Martiana Tuesday Tapas Route scheme. We've also read
of the Ruta Santa Catalina, a similar venture on
Thursdays that we’ll try out on a future visit.
The main roads bounding the old city centre follow the
reclaimed coastline and the zig-zag of the old city walls to
the east. Another dual carriageway, Passeig Mallorca/
Avinguada de l'Argentina follows the Sa Riera
watercourse past the 16th century citadel of Sant Pere
now housing the Museu Baluard, an art gallery, bar and
restaurant. Within the city the main streets are Las
Ramblas, Passeig Born and Avinguada de Jaume III.
All other streets meander around, focussing on parish
churches and plazas. The small modern rail terminus at
Plaça d'Espanya is located below ground with a bar and
cafe on the plaza fronting what is now a linear park. Trains
to Inca and other towns leave from here; the vintage trains
to Soller leave from an adjacent station.
Above: Royal Palace of La Almudaina, built on the original Moorish foundations
between 1305-14 by Jaime I with early 20 th Century renovations by municipal architect
Gaspar Bennazar and further work 1960-80.
Map: Palma de Mallorca City Centre
1: Museu es Baluard, 2: Le Seu [Catedral de Mallorca], 3: Museu Mallorca,
4: Mercado Gastronomica San Juan, 5: Mercado 1930, 6: Mercat d'Olivar, 7: Mercat
Ecologico, 8: Mercat Santa Catalina. The Airport lies to the east, with access from Ma 1.
114 115

Check out the map for walking routes centred on the Hotel
seaward side of the district on Caller Industria and Caller Es
Below: Celler sa Premsa in central Palma has a vast dining room that fills with eager diners
Posada Terra Sant for shopping, local bars, cafes and
restaurants. On Tuesday evenings the La Ruta Martiana
scheme offers a drink and a tapas for a set price in some
Jonquet. One is a museum recording the past activities of
the district.
•The Mercat de l'Olivar, the Mercat Pere Garau and
To Mercat d”Oliver, Plaça de Espanya,
Fundación Juan March
Hotel Posada
de Terra Sant
To El Corte Inglés
Department Store
everyday for the Menu del Dia offer based on traditional Mallorcan cuisine. Bottom Left:
TaPalma cocktails/tapas competition and offer brochure.
bars in the neighbourhood. A great idea but not too well
Mercat Santa Catalina municipal markets cater for
advertised — see our map!
Another great reason for visiting the city in the autumn is
culinary shopping.
•Mercado Gastronómico San Juan within the
Plaça de
la Quartier
the TaPalma ruta de tapas y cócteles. There are a number
S’Escorxador complex on Carrer de l'Emperadriu
of short routes of bars/cafes/restaurants around the city
offering a speciality tapas and cocktail at a set price. There
is also a competition for best tapas and cocktail. The
Eugènia just north of the city centre has been created to
embrace the gastronomic market trend. The former
slaughterhouse was built in 1905 to a design by Gaspar
Plaça de Mercat
Plaça
Major
1
Plaça
de la Capellers
Plaça Nova
de la Ferreria
regional chefs association: Chefs[in] also holds events and
happenings: pop-ups, kids cooking school and high end
tapas in exotic locations.
Highlights
•Ca'n Joan de S'Aigo is a vibrant cafe/restaurant
specialising in chocolate, fruit ices and traditional pastries
with a history dating back to 1700 [see the website] in the
unprepossessing narrow and sunless Carrer de Ca'n Sanç.
•Vermuteria Ca'nVi.Xet — for our favourite drink just a
little further along.
•Quina Creu between and Carrer del Forn de la Creu
and Carrer de la Corderia for very good meals, and a free
drink one evening at the bar.
•La Tortilleria de Palma — We happened upon an
impromptu music event on Saturday afternoon here: the laidback
acoustic double base and a rapper — surprisingly
acceptable. Food and drinks OK too — if you like tortillas!
•Celler sa Premsa, on Placa Obispo Berenguer de
Palou: astonishing find established in 1958 and serving
traditional Mallorcan cuisine in a huge, barrel lined dining
room at bargain prices — it filled up in 30 minutes at
1.00pm.
•Es Baluard Museu d'ArtModern | Contemporani
de Palma [see Culture] has a bar/cafe/restaurant and
Bennazar in 'modernista' style and reopened in in it’s new
guise in 2015. A double height central area has long tables
surrounded by 20 vendors offering a multitude of food and
wine offers. Check out the lively web site for more details:
http://www.mercadosanjuanpalma.es
•Mercat 1930 even more recently has been repurposed
from the former Restaurant Mediterráneo 1930 off the
Paseo Maritimo on Avenida de Gabriel Roca. A smaller
venue than the San Juan but with a lively social calendar.:
www.mercat1930.com/en
•Jazz Voyeur Festival is held each Autumn, balancing
the sand, sun and sea, a cultural programme is staged
throughout the year. organised by the eponymous club.
Events are held in various venues including the Teatre Tui
— part of a school/college complex. We booked for US
guitarist Al Di Meola playing a mix of music accompanied
by an accordionist.
•Smooth Jazz Festival, organised by Smooth FM Radio
held during the summer months.
•Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró comprising the studio
designed by Josep Lluís Sert in 1956, the 18 th century Son
Boter house and Rafael Moneo building opened in 1992,
all in the Cala Major district.
Plaça de Ca’n
Tagamament
To Museum es Baluard
& Santa Catalina
District
Plaça de
Cort
Plaça de
St Eulalia
Map: La Ruta Martiana and the Canamunt Neighbourhood 1: TOC RestoBar;
2: Cafe D 'en Coll; 3: Tapas Bar La Andalusia; 4: La Cuadra del Mano; 5: Sa Corbata;
6: Tagomagos; 7: Ca la Seu; 8: Sa Jugueteria; 9: Lemon Tree; 10: Moltabarra. Other Bars &
Restaurants A: La Tortilleria de Palma; B: Quina Creu; C: Vermuteria Vi.Xet; D: Ca'n Joan de
S'Aigo
Santa
Eulalia
2
To Museum de Mallorca,
Le Seu
[Catedral de Mallorca]
Parc de la Mar
3
C
4
D
5
Museu
de la
Jugueta
6
B
7
A
San
Fransesc
8
9
10
Plaça
del
Mercadel
Plaça de
Josep Maria
Quadrado
Plaça de
l’Artesania
Plaça
Raimundo
Clar
Plaça de
Llorenç
Bisbal
Grácia
'chill out zone' with 'the best terrace in the city'. It's open from
10.00 am to midnight everyday.
•Santa Caterina district, west of Avinguada Argentina
has a profusion of bars/cafes/restaurants offering cuisines
from around the world now occupying the ground floors of
the terraces of pastel painted houses in this former
fishermen's neighbourhood. A few remnants of the windmills
that processed wheat for the city in the past remain to the
116 117

Digs
As a major Mediterranean tourist destination, Palma has
numerous hotels throughout the city and the surrounding
area. The two we have experienced are. Hotel Posada
Terra Santa a wonderful hotel, located between Calle
Posada Terra Sant and Carrer del Pes de la Farina in the
Canamunt neighbourhood — but expensive unless you can
get a deal. The building was the former Curia of the
Barony of Bunyolí dating back to 1576 and very
sensitively refurbished. Rooms are well sized and luxuriously
appointed, the restaurant is very stylish, the rooftop sun
terrace and plunge pool very convenient and the small
basement spa pool is a great indulgence. Staff are attentive
and charming too. The location is on the up, right in the old
centre of the city with many bars, cafes and restaurants
nearby.
Hotel Bon Sol is a newer property but older hotel,
being established in 1953 in Illetas, to the west of the city
centre by Antonio Xamena [1910-1996] and still run by
Martin and Lorraine Xamena. It’s a quirky collection of
buildings and gardens on a hillside, crossed by a local
road, with a lift and tunnels [11 years in construction] that
delivers guests to the minute beach and summertime
restaurant. Some staff have worked with the family for 25-
30 years!
Main: A rather sad looking ‘molí d'en Garleta’ one of 5 preserved windmills overlooking
Palma Bay in the Santa Caterina district. Above: Refurbished property in the Santa Catalina
area.
Top Left: Website for Hotel Bon Sol. Above Left: Rooftop terrace and plunge pool [through the
archway] at Hotel Posada Terra Santa. Above Right: ground floor room at Hotel Posada
Terra Santa.
118 119

Above: Bar La Tapita at the Mercado Santa Catalina is typical of the bar/cafes offering
simple food to eat standing or to take-away in the municipal markets in Palma. Above right: The
Sky Bar on the roof terrace of the Hostal de Cuba Hotel.
Top: Palma Bay, Port and Marina from the Santa Caterina neighourhood. Right: El Cafe del
Grand Hotel designed by the Barcelona born architect Lluís Domènech I Montaner and
completed in 1903. Now part of the Fundación Caixa. Far Right: Home page for the
Mercado Gastronómico San Juan in the S’Escorxador development to the north of the
city centre.
120 121

Left: Roofscape of the city and Palma Cathedral and Palma Bay from the rooftop bar/cafe/
restaurant of El Corte Inglés department store. Below: Bastió de Sant Pere, home to Es
Baluard Museu d'ArtModern | Contemporani de Palma.
Above: Cafe/Bar at Es Baluard Museu d'ArtModern | Contemporani de Palma.
Right: Can Casasayas and the Menorquina pension on Plaza Del Mercat and
separated by Santacília street. Designed by Francesc Roca and completed by Guillem
Reynés.
122 123

Day trip to Inca
Inland from Palma to the home of world famous Camper
shoes, leather goods shops and some traditional cellar style
and contemporary restaurants. The Dijous Bo [Good
Thursday] festival in October/November is very much an
event for local people: a huge street market, an exhaustive
display of agricultural machinery and numerous
competitions including ‘Best Mallorcan Black Pig’. We
travelled on the very busy train to Inca and then jostled our
way through the crowds to the main street, taking in the
sights and smells of traditional food and a demonstration of
Ensamada cake making. We had booked lunch at La
Fabriça, a restaurant in a repurposed factory, right on the
main street. The space is huge and the tables very well
spaced out with groups of friends enjoying their extended
meal on the day of the festival. Chef Marcel Ress has a
contemporary take on traditional Mallorcan cuisine — a
wonderful lunch at a bargain price!
Palma restauranteurs including Michelin star
holders Marc Fosh and Adrián Quetglas also offer
lunchtime seasonal tasting menus at prices way below that
for dinner in the evening. More research required!
Above: Well spaced tables at La Fabriça. Far left: Courtyard with herbs and vegetables at La
Fabriça, Inca. Left brassicas in the courtyard at La Fabriça.
Above Left & Right: Traditional confectionery stalls at Dijous Bo Festival, Inca. Further right:
Music and vermouth at popular prices! Far Left: 2019 Poster for Dijous Bo Festival —
cancelled for 2020. Left: Patisserie demonstration at the the Dijous Bo Festival.
124 125

7: Santa Cruz de Tenerife City Centre Break
Left: Poster for event at the Brick Hotel and Bar . Below: The Moltabarra bar de tapas on
Carrer del Pes de la Farina, near Hotel Posada Terra Santa.
Main: The Auditorio de Tenerife, designed by Santiago Calatrava is the cultural icon of
Santa Cruz near the Castle of San Juan and César Manrique Maritime Park.
126 127

About four hours by plane from the UK, the Canary Islands
are roughly on the same latitude as Marrakech in Morocco
and sometimes subject to sand storms courtesy of the Saharan
country. A self governing entity of Spain, Gran Canaria and
Tenerife are the two largest islands and Santa Cruz de
Tenerife is a lively twin capital city. The north and west of the
island has lush farmland and historical towns, including San
Cristobal de la Laguna [the old capital] — a contrast to
the tourist areas in the south. The main airport is Tenerife Sud
[Reina Sofia]. The older airport — Tenerife Norte [Los
Rodeos] — only has flights to Spain and hops to other
Canary Islands. Santa Cruz de Tenerife is a big port for
cruise ships, ferries, has a big fishing fleet, a marina and two
weekly ferries to Cadiz and Huelva in Spain.
•Ramblas de Tenerife curve round the north of the city
centre with numerous public buildings and upscale villas. A
wide central pathway has children’s playgrounds and news
kiosks.
•Kiosko Numancia is a bar/cafe located on a traffic
island on the confluence of Avenida Veinticinco de Julio
and Las Ramblas. Recently revamped, the constant traffic
either side adds to the buzz and testimony to local tastes or a
stop after a walk in the adjacent park.
•Parque Garcia Sanabria Arbórea. Named for the
mayor who approved it’s development. Water features, exotic
plants and sculptures, broad walks and the neighbourhood
beyond the Ramblas is one of the upmarket districts of the city
with a number of international style houses and apartment
buildings and modern tower blocks with views over the city.
•Strasse Park bar/restaurant is a contemporary styled
bar/cafe at the top of the park popular with young families
millennials.
•Terraza Restaurante Parque is more for locals and
football fans — matches are projected on a big screen.
•TEA: Tenerife Arts Space designed by Swiss architects
Herzog & De Meuron: two large gallery spaces, a
library and photographic centre, an auditorium, a restaurant
and shop, all under a single dramatic sloping roof.
• Bars, cafes and restaurants abound throughout the city.
We happened upon the 'Carousel de Tapas' event in the
Plaza Principe Asturias during our 2012 trip — a drink
and a sample tapas for €2.00 . GOM in the Hotel
Taburiente was memorable in 2012, but mixed recent
reviews. On the same back street is Restaurant Porton de
Oro: very traditional, a bar/sit-down tapas part and a bit
more formal restaurant. The Da Canio Pizza/Pasta
restaurant is great value and enormous pizzas! The bar/
cafe at the Auditorio de Tenerife is house under a huge
dramatic hinged window overlooking the ocean.
•Calle Antonio Dominguez Alfonso has evolved as a
location for casual dining with a number of attractive bar/
cafe/restaurants lining the street down to Iglesia de
Nuestra Señora de la Conception.
•Círculo de Bellas Artes de Tenerife has a cafe,
exhibition space, theatre shop and pink roof space. Good
selection of vermouths in the bar!
•Carnival de Santa Cruz de Tenerife: is the biggest
outside Rio de Janeiro and great fun for several weeks in
February with everyone dressing up to interpretations of the
approved theme — or whatever turns you on! Bands
playing in plazas, competitions and social events, big
parades, fireworks and late-night happenings. A special
event is the ‘The Drowning of the Sardine’ a huge
papier-mache fish surrounded by ‘mourning’ nuns, priests
and assorted followers — Star Wars Guards? 2020 theme
is: ‘Los coquetos años 50’ — The Flirty Fifties — maybe next
year!
Digs
•Iberostar Grand Hotel Mencey — a resort type
hotel with a city centre location! Extensively refurbished in
2011 with lovely contemporary gardens, indoor and
outdoor pools, a spa with rooftop tennis court, grand
public areas and a demonstration kitchen — and a casino.
Papa Negra restaurant under chef Javier Martín offers
contemporary takes on Canarian cuisine.
Below: The garden, outdoor pool and spa at the Iberostar Grand Hotel Mencey with the
tower blocks of Las Mimosas residential district in the background.
Left: Ornate ironwork gates to the Villa Petra on Las Ramblas de Santa Cruz. Designed in
1921 by eminent local architect D Domingo Pisaca Burgada for businessman D.
Cándido García Dorta. Below: 1950’s apartments in the Las Mimosas district.
•Las Teresetas at San Andraes is the nearest beach
about a 7 km. bus ride from the city centre, it’s about 1.5
kilometres of imported fine golden sand, protected from
currents and waves by a breakwater.
•Auditorio de Tenerife, designed by Spanish architect
Santiago Calatrava, located on the seashore near the
Embarcadero bus/tram terminus and adjacent to the
Castle of San Juan and César Manrique Maritime
Park.
128 129

Main: Exotic plants in Parque Garcia Sanabria Arbórea. Above: the upper terrace at
Strasse Park bar/restaurant on the Las Ramblas edge of the Parque Garcia Sanabria
Arbórea.
Top left and right: View of the he restaurant and introductory display from the main access ramp at
TEA [Tenerife Espacio de las Artes].
130 131

Above: The entrance to the self-managed co-operative Mercado La Recova [The Our Lady
of Africa Market] in Santa Cruz city centre.
Above Left: Tiled memorial bench at Plaza de los Patos on Avenida Vienticinco de Julio,
Hoteles District, Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Above: The original Kiosko Numancia, built in 1930.
Top: Refurbished Kiosko Numancia [from facebook Page]. Now with new roof and glass
walling to one side. Mixed reviews on Tripadvisor!
132 133

Moments from Carnival de Santa Cruz de Tenerife — costumes, competitions, dancing,
drinking, a fun fair, music, parades, shows — wonderful!
Above: Right & Lower Right: Kiosko Principe outdoor deck with glassed in facility to the
right in a corner of the Plaza Principe de Asturias a small urban park created from the
grounds of the Franciscan Monastery adjacent to church of San Francisco. Far Right: Circulo
de de la Amistad XII de Enero, founded in 1855 the HQ building adjacent to Plaza
Principe with a bar/cafe, library, meeting rooms and kindergarden space. The Circle of
Friends also owns a large sports facility south of the city centre with four outdoor and and
an indoor swimming pool and numerous other facilities. The building next door to the HQ
building is now a medical centre.
134 135

8: Tenerife Island Tour
Garachico, Icod de Los Vinos, Orotrava & San Cristobal de Laguna.
Garachico, Icod de Los Vinos, La Orotava & San Cristobal de Laguna.
West then North from Aeropuerto Sur — bypass the Costa del Silencio [by the Airport!] —
and Playa de Los Cristianos, Playa de Las Americas and Costa Adeje then up to
Santiago del Teide to access the historic towns and lush landscape of banana plantations
and wineries in the north west of the island.
Above: Mount Teide [3718 m] is an active volcano, within a National Park and the location of a
a major astronomical observatory. The upper heights are reached by a cable car. The Parador
de Las Cañadas del Teide Hotel and Restaurant are the only tourism facilities within the
National Park. Right: The Millenial Dragon Tree [actually 800 years old] in the Park del
Drago, Icod de Los Vinos.
Aove: Gates to The Botanical Garden, La Orotava — Known as the Acclimatisation
Garden and inaugurated in 1788 by King Carlos III of Spain. The much larger garden in
Puerto de La Cruz is the development of this original garden in La Orotava.
136 137

Icod de Los Vinos
Famous for it’s giant Dragon Trees [Dracaena Draco some
examples have their own small park] — it’s historical core
has a smattering of older buildings in the narrow, now
mainly one way streets located about a mile from the swell
of the Atlantic. Very ‘un-touristy’. The attractive central square
surrounding the parish church of San Marcos has some
attractive traditional buildings with unusual trees. There is a
bar under the bandstand in the park and nearby is La
Parada — Casa de Comida on Rambla Perez de Cristo.
offering excellent Canarian food in a very friendly
unpretentious dining room.
Right: Casa de Los Cáceres in Plaza de Lorenzo Cáceres Icod de Los Vinos. Below Right:
Tenerife is famous for it’s indigenous Dragon Trees [Dracaena Draco] This example is one of a
number of examples in Icod de Los Vinos. Below: The central patio and bar/restaurant of the
Hotel Emblemático San Agustín, Icod de Los Vinos.
Garachico
The town has suffered major disasters: particularly the
volcanic explosion of 5 May 1706. Today the seafront is
dominated by a big banana warehouse plus tidal pools for
bathing, an open-air swimming pool and a new marina/
port. The very attractive Plaza de la Libertad features the
church of Santa Anna, the church of San Francisco and
the recently repurposed Palacio La Quinta Roja, built by
the Marqués Cristobal de Ponte y Llanera and now a
charming rural hotel. Nearby on Calle Esteban de Ponte is
the stylishly designed Mirador de Garachico craft shop,
gallery and manor house built in the 18th century by a
descendent of Christopher de Ponte, the founder of the
town. Also on Calle Esteban de Ponte is the Hotel San
Roque a beautifully restored house, now a small hotel with
a pool, restaurant and furnished with an eclectic collection
of furnishings created by internationally famous designers.
Both hotels are highly recommended.
Above: Inglesia de Nuestra Sonnora de los Angeles, Garachico. Previously the church
and convent of San Francisco de Asísi established in 1524 by the benefactor Don Cristóbal
de Ponte. Left: La Quinta Roja Hotel website. The house was built for the Marquesses of La
Quinta Roja, tthe former owners and founders of the town and port in the 16 th century. Below:
Hotel San Roque hotel website.
138 139

La Orotava
The main centre of administration on the north coast until
tourism and the development of nearby Puerto de La
Cruz. The city of La Orotava has a beautifully maintained
core of historic buildings and public spaces. Established by
wealthy agricultural enterprises resulting in manor houses,
churches and public spaces comprising the posh 'Villa de
Abajo' [Downtown] and artisan 'Villa de Arriba'
[Uptown] Our favourites were: the Hijuela del Botánico
— an outpost of the larger Jardín Botánico in Puerto de la
Cruz. Opposite is the entrance to the 19th-century French
style Jardínes del Marquesado de la Quinta Roja, a
larger space with formal flower gardens cascading down
the hillside also known as the Jardín Victoria. There is a
cafe terrace on the lower slopes run by Restaurante Casa
Egon/Confitería Café Taoro. Nearby the big pink
building is the Liceo de Taoro — a public establishment for
holding exhibitions, a bar/cafe open to the public and
games rooms and tennis courts for members. The Plaza
Casañes, planted in a contemporary style with a number of
bar/cafe/restaurants around the edge. Carrera del Escultor
Estévez is the main street lined with old buildings built during
Orotrava’s wealthy past.
We had good traditional Canarian food at the Hotel
Victoria restaurant, the Sabor Canario at the Hotel
Rural Orotava and La Bodega Tapias —modern interior
with a country/wine bar theme including those from the far
northeast of the island.
Left: Casa de Lercaro or de Ponte-Fonte. The quartered arms above the entrance attests
to family links: the Ponte - Lercaro family house was founded in 1676 by Don Jerónimo de
Ponte Fonte y Pagés and his wife Catalina Grimaldi Rizzo de Luego. Below: Calle
Rodapalla lined with traditional Canarian houses in La Orotava.
Left: Entrance with dramatic chandelier at Casa de Lercaro or de Ponte-Fonte. Top:
Traditional Balconies of the Hotel Rural Victoria. We were located in the very grand room with
this balcony — very popular with the German guests who requested a viewing! Above: The
terraced garden and main facade of the Liceo de Taoro cultural and sports centre in La Orotava.
Drinks and meals are served on the patio either side of the main door — very civilised! Right:
Modernista style in La Orotava.
140 141

San Cristóbal de La Laguna
The Tranvia metro links Santa Cruz de Tenerife to the old
capital passing the ULL: Universidad de La Laguna
main campus. La Laguna’s grid pattern of streets at it's
historic core served as the model for many towns in Spanish
Colonial America. Today the dark stone of the mansions
lining the largely pedestrianised streets have been colonised
by stylish bars, cafes, restaurants and small shops hinting at
it's past importance. The numerous churches, convents and
mansions now serving as small museums provide an insight
into the the past wealth of the town and are excellent
examples of traditional Canarian architecture of wooden
balconies surrounding courtyards hidden behind heavy
doors. The original Upper Town, established in 1497 by
Alonso de Lugo was built haphazardly around the
Church of La Concepcion. Subsequently in 1502 a
planned Lower Town of major and minor streets, open
spaces and key buildings was developed based on
Leonardo da Vinci’s Imola. A piped water supply was
installed in 1521. La Laguna served as the model for
colonial cities including Havana, Cuba; Lima, Peru and
Cartagena in Columbia.
Left: The Bishop’s Palace, La Laguna, commissioned as the Palace of Count Cristóbal
Salazar de Frías in 1664 to designs by Juan González de Castro Illada. Below: Carnival
procession in La Laguna for the ‘Burying of the Sardine’.
Bottom: Casino de La Laguna, founded in 1889, the current building was purchased in 1973 to
accommodate ‘gastronomy, culture and sport’. The gym and pool were added in 2004. Nice for
drinks on the terrace. Groovy bar!
9: Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
City Centre Break
Digs
In Icod de Los Vinos we stayed at the Hotel
Emblemático San Agustín, a beautifully refurbished
Canarian town house of 1736 — it also serves as a cafe
open to the public until about 8.00pm [closed 2-3.30pm!].
In La Orotava we stayed at the the Hotel Rural Victoria
— a large converted Canarian townhouse with traditionally
decorated rooms and a great view of Mount Teide from
the rooftop terrace.
Left: Main entrance of the Auditorio Alfredo Kraus with sculpture by Juan Bordes.
Above: Cafe in Parque Santa Catalina — the bus stops are to the left .
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In 1478 the Spanish established a military camp on the
south bank of the estuary of the Barranco Guiniguada.
Colonists subsequently developed this location, now the
Vegueta area of Las Palmas. The city then expanded to
the north, now the Triana area — and a port was created
where Parque San Telmo currently stands. Nineteenth
century expansion extended the city further north towards
the bay of La Isleta establishing the Port of La Luz in
1883. Today, tourism focusses around the Las Canteras
Beach, the colonial historical centre on either side of the
Carretera del Centro and Playa del Inglés and
Meloneras at the southern tip of the island. North of Playa
Las Canteras is the more rugged Paseo y Playa de el
Confital — a protected area of raised walkways and a
rocky foreshore. Between the Port of La Luz and Las
Canteras Beach is a tight grid of busy streets with Parque
Santa Catalina offering some respite near the port and
further south the Parque Doramas adjacent to the Hotel
Santa Catalina and the Parque [Antigua] Estadio
Insular — a repurposed football stadium. All have cafes
and outdoor seating areas — very welcome for the tired
tourist. Parque Santa Catalina has a major stop for bus
routes in the city and beyond. The cafes in the park cater for
‘regulars’ and bus passengers returning to the suburbs.
Canarian architect Miguel Martín Fernández
de la Torre is celebrated as a leading exponent of
‘Modernist’ architecture, planning the Ciudad Jardin
neighbourhood in 1922 and designing numerous houses
and public buildings from 1929-39 including the Cabildo
Insular Gran Canaria [Government Building] 1932 and
the rebuilt Hotel Santa Catalina — in a Colonial style.
Details of significant buildings and walking tours can be
downloaded from waviahotel.com
GC 2
Arenales
La
Paterna
GC 23
Playa la
Confital
Playa de la
Canteras
Paseo de la
Canteras
Auditorio
de
Alfredo Kraus
5
Parque Urbano
del Estadio
Insular
4
2
1
Cuidad
Jardin
9
Military
Zone
7
Cuatro
Cañones
La Isleta
6
GC 31
8
3
Puerto
de La Luz
Parque de
Santa Catalina
Intercambiador
de Santa Catalina
Playa de la
Alcaravaneras
Parque Romero
Parque Doramas/
Hotel Santa Catalina
5110
11
San
Cristóbal
Airport
➜
Triana
Vegueta
GC 1
Autopista
del Sur
Gran Canaria is a roughly circular island sloping down from the mountain of Pico de Las
Nieves. The city of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is situated in the north east corner of the
island. Main features and roads: 1: Edificio Woermann, 2: AC Hotel, 3: Cruise ship terminal,
4: El Corte Inglés department store, 5: Casa Mozart, 6: Yacht Marina, 7: The British Club,
8: Club Natación Metropole, 9: Piscinas Julio Navarro y Roque Díaz, 10: Parque Triana,
11: Cathedral and Plaza Santa Ana.
Above and right: Mercado del Puerto, Calle Albareda, Las Palmas has numerous bars and
booths offering various tapas and drinks with live music events in the evenings. Great for grazing
and friendly too!
Above right: Chapel festooned with Bougainvillea in the Vegueta historical district — the first
Canarian settlement by Spanish voyagers.
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Highlights
•Vegueta has a museum like quality with a number of
museums in old mansions. In addition to the ‘Casa Colon’
— Columbus’s lodgings, there is a Museum of
Contemporary Art and Museum of the Canaries.
Streets are extremely well kept with many buildings having
been restored, some with contemporary ‘interventions’. The
bars and restaurants seemed to cater for visitors [multilingual
menus] - although seemingly well patronised by a
local clientele too.
•Gabinete Literario in Triana was the city’s first theatre
dating from 1844. It’s an elegant building located on Plaza
de Cairasco. The main façade is a spun sugar confection of
cream and white beaux art detailing on the exterior and an
eclectic mix of art nouveau and other styles in the interior.
Now home to a number of cultural bodies — the cafe and
restaurant are open to the public with an attractive terrace
with additional tables shaded by parasols in the square
beyond.
•Hotel Santa Catalina is the ‘grand dame’ hotel on
Gran Canaria. Located in the Cuidad Jardins area, its a big
pink edifice with Canarian style dark wood balconies on
some façades and a grand entrance fronted by a sweeping
drive through formal gardens overlooking the yacht marina
and Puerto de La Luz. Recently refurbished by the Barcelo
Group to a stunning contemporary level.
•Parque Doramas is on a hillside above the Hotel Santa
Catalina, access from Paseo Tomas Morales, a pleasant
respite in the Cuidad Jardin neighbourhood, is also home to
Piscinas Julio Navarro y Roque Díaz owned by the city
council, but managed by Club Natación Metropole.
Above: 1960’s Brutalist style architecture of the tower of the AC Hotel is a landmark near Porto La
Luz designed by architect Pedro Massieu. Left: Edificio Woermann overlooking Puerto de La
Luz, designed by Abalos & Herreros with Joaquin Casariego and Elsa Guerra —
completed in 2005.
Hotel Santa Catalina: The original building was designed by Scottish architect James
Marjoribanks MacLaren for the Canary Islands Company in 1887. It opened in 1890
and continued operating until 1922. The building was purchased by the Canarian
government in 1923 and demolished in 1941. It was rebuilt on the original foundations to a
design by Canarian architect Miguel Martín Fernández de la Torre to the original plan
form and opened in 1951. The recent refurbishment and enhancement was undertaken when
Barcelo Group took on the management. The hotel reopened in 2019. Restoration of
artworks from the 19 th and 20 th century murals, including works by Manuel Martín
González, Santiago Santana and Fernando Álamo was under the direction of Beatriz
Galán, a fine art restorer and an expert in preventive conservation. The building above the
hotel is the Iglesia Coreana Full Gospel Church. Right: new VIP Alis rooftop bar and
pool at Hotel Santa Catalina. [Photo Barcelo Group]
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•The British Club — a red painted Georgian style
building replete with flag pole and Union Jack flag hanging
beside the front door. It has restaurant and bar facilities
open to visitors and offers a programme of events to suit the
members. A big emphasis on the web site is the parking
facilities available to members.
•Architectural Tours — If you’re a really keen
architectural buff, the Las Palmas City Tourism website [http:/
/lpavisit.com/en/activities/urban-routes/1984-
arquitectura-racionalista] offers a leaflet with routes to visit
buildings in the international modern style in English,
German and Spanish — well worth investigating.
•Shopping: the Avenida José Mesa y Lopez is the
location for all the main Spanish fashion shops and a large
El Corte Inglés department store — with buildings on both
sides of the avenue. The Triana district also has
pedestrianised streets with numerous shops.
•Auditorio Alfredo Kraus. The significant southern
visual terminal of the Playa de Caleta is this fortress of a
building finished in a rough stone with smooth concrete
edges, surmounted by a rather quirky cupola and sculptures
at the entrance. Guided tours have mixed reviews and
there’s no catering facilities open to public at other times.
Left: The Auditorio Alfredo Kraus, Playa de Caleta.
Designed by architect Oscar Tusquets, opened in 1997, the
building is like a bulwark to counter the force of the ocean on
the seaward side. Below: ‘Modernista’ interior details of the
Gabinete Literario.
Digs
Hotel Casa Mozart was our choice in Las Palmas. A small
modernist villa in the Cuidad Jardín neighbourhood, a short
bus ride from both Puerto de la Luz or Triana/Vegata. A
1930’s ‘rationalist’ style building designed by architect
Miguel Martín Fernández de la Torre with 5 guest
bedrooms and good breakfasts. It’s an easy walk to the
cafe at Parque Urbano [Antigua] Estadio Insular and
Mercado Central and local cafes and restaurants.
Left: Main entrance, terrace and plaza seating for the bar/cafe customers of the Gabinete Literario
in Plaza de Cairasco. Top: Casa de Colón, the first governors palace, rebuilt in 1777 and since 1952
adjacent buildings were annexed to form a museum, library and study centre, architect Secundino
Zuazo Ugalde. It’s claimed Columbus stayed here in 1492. 1492. Above: Ceramic street sign with
distinctive lettering and city coat of arms in the Vegueta historical neighbourhood.
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Far Left: Ancient House on Calle Armas. Left: ‘Modernista’
refurbishment of house on Plaza de Santa Ana. Above: Casas
Consistoriales de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria [City
Hall]. Opposite Page Left: Fundación MAPFRE
Guanarteme - Edificio Cultural Ponce de León. Right:
Chrome ‘g’ logo exterior sign Fundación MAPFRE
Guanarteme - Edificio Cultural Ponce de León. Far right:
Calle de Balcones, with CAAM - Atlantic Center of
Modern Art on the left hand side of the street.
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10: Lanzarote:
Homage to César Manrique.
Arricife the capital is relatively small and focussed on the
Charco de San Ginés lagoon with several satellite
‘urbanisations’ and big resort hotels in outlying districts
along the eastern seaboard. At the southern tip of the island
is Playa Blanca with several hotels and a ferry port. The
original capital is inland Teguise, a charming jumble of
streets lined with typical Canarian houses. For any visitor
with an interest in the arts and what can be done in this
inhospitable landscape, visiting the works of artist/
designer/local hero César Manrique is essential — and
virtually unavoidable! Born on Lanzarote in 1919 he died in
1992. The home he devised above and below ground is
now the Fundación Manrique and well worth a visit as is
the Castillo San Jose, home of el Museo Internacional
de Arte Contemporáneo de Lanzarote [MIAC] and a
panoramic restaurant. César Manrique petitioned the
authorities of the island to transform the interior of the fortress
into an art gallery — opened in 1976. The curving bar/
cafe/restaurant at it's base overlooks the commercial port
facilities of Arricife. Manrique also designed the El Diablo
restaurant in the Montañas del Fuego – Timanfaya
National Park. The design utilises the geothermal heat
underlying the volcanic landscape for cooking. Another
major work was the Casa Museo del Campesino at
Mozaga focussing on the traditional life of islanders. A
number of the ‘wind-sculptures’ designed by Manrique
were erected after his death at various locations across the
island. Other works and interventions include: Bar El
Almacén at the the Arricife Arts and Crafts School.
Operating between 1933 and 1970, it is now a cultural hub
with a bar and restaurant; Homenaje a José Ramírez
Cerdá: a sculpture celebrating the life of this major political
figure in 20th century Lanzarote life; Róbalo: A wind
sculpture in Puerto del Carmen; Mirador del Rio (1979-
73) with architect Eduardo Cáceres and artist Jesús
Soto, a bar/cafe and vantage point integrated into the
rock face overlooking the island of La Graciosa and the
Chinijo Islands National Park; Cueva de los Verdes
again with Jesús Soto for the sound and light show in the
cave system for visits and concerts; Casa Museo De
Cesar Manrique: the Palm Grove House is an old
farmhouse in Haria, converted by Manrique as his home
and studio in 1966; Ermita de Máguez: Manrique
contributed the design for the mural located behind the
altar of the rebuilt church in 1974; The Jameos del Agua:
the first Centre of Art, Culture and Tourism — built within
three connected apertures in the volcanic landscape
opened in 1966; Mirador de Haría inaugurated in1966
as a hikers refuge, originally designed by architect Don
Enrique Spinola González recently refurbished and
reopened in 2018; Casa del Timple, Palacio Spinola,
Teguise. Built by José Feo Peraza from 1730 – 1780
and at one time home to the Canarian Government,
refurbished to designs by Manrique in the 1970’s and
developed as a museum for traditional musical instruments
in 2011.
In addition to visiting the Foundation Manrique
and the MIAC our week in Lanzarote included visiting the
marina and facilities at Porto Calero: the bars, cafes,
restaurants are backed by a row of fashion boutiques, a
small supermarket, car hire office and chandlery. The
former capital of the island is the inland town of Teguise. It
has a number of streets of older houses in typical Canarian
style: white painted stonework with small windows having a
single colour for the frames; bars, cafes and restaurants and
shops with a decidedly hippy tendency. It hosts a popular
weekly market.
Between Teguise and Yaiza is the winegrowing
area of the island: semi-circles of black volcanic
rock or long, low-walled terraces with very low growing
vines. Grapes must be harvested by hand — a backbreaking
task, so understandably local wines are more
expensive than imported ‘peninsula’ wines from Spain.
Previous Page Top: Pool at Iberostar Hesperia near Puerto Calero. Previous Page Lower Left &
Right: Fundación Manrique, Tahiche. Left: Cactus garden and view towards volcanic hills
at Fundación Manrique, Tahiche. Above Top: Restaurant at the lower level of the MIAC
at Castillo de San Jośe. Above: Web site for MIAC showing the Castillo de San Jośe
on the outskirts of Arecife.
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Top Left: Traditionally styled beachfront house. Centre Left:
Beachfront backstreet village scene. Lower Left: Streetscene in
Teguise. Above: Iglesia Matriz de Nuestra Señora de
Guadalupe in Teguise. Lower left: Entrance to beachfront
restaurant at Playa del Pozo.
Far Left: Walkway over volcanic rocks at the Montañas del Fuego – Timanfaya
National Park. Above: Casa Museo del Campesino at Mozaga focussing on the
traditional life of islanders. Left signage for the Mirador del Rio. Both are César Manrique
instigations and designs.
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Previous Page: Entrance to the Museo Etnographico del Tanit, San Bartolomé,
Lanzarote. Above display item from the Museo Etnographico del Tanit. Right: Puerto
Calero sunset.
156 157

Credits & Thanks:
Concept: Lenore & Eric Gristwood
Graphic Design: Eric Gristwood
Photography: Lenore & Eric Gristwood
Text: Eric Gristwood
Vermouth images by permission of the individual producers.
Santa Caterina Hotel rooftop pool courtesy of Barcelo
Group. Other non attributed images permission requested.
Software: Affinity Publisher and Adobe Photoshop.
Proofing by WalesPrint, Penrhyndeudræth.
A lot of the words and images in Designers Abroad | 2 first
appeared on our legacy travel blog:
www.designersabroad.co.uk. Still available online. We
hope this new format will feature further visits to:
France: Brittany, Normandy, Menton and Paris;
Germany: Berlin, Munich and Regensburg;
Morocco: Essouira, Marrakech and Taroudont;
Portugal: Alentejo Tour, Lisbon and Porto;
South Africa: Cape Town and the Winelands;
USA: The Desert South West Tour.
This is an enhanced version for print and ‘flip-book’ format of material from our legacy
travel website www.designersabroad.co.uk — over 10 years of reports from travels in
the UK, Europe and the USA. Still available on line. We also have a selection of images
from our travels in the pre-digital era scanned from negatives and transparencies on our
Instagram page: lenoreandericsarchive.
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