Times of the Islands Spring 2021

TIMES
OF THE
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2021 NO. 134
SEARCHING THE SAND
Beachcombing Treasures
BIRTH OF AN AIRPORT
Handmade runway to PLS
NATIVE IN PERIL
Green iguana invader
ISLANDS

Comfort Food Just Went A-list.
If your idea of comfort feels like
cashmere, you will find its culinary
equivalent at Almond Tree,
the Shore Club’s deliciously
decadent new eatery.
Golden, crusty wood-fired pizza.
Savory skillets, bubbling over with flavor
and just oozing with temptation.
Salads and sides that give new meaning
to the word “indulgence.”
These days, we’re all hungry
for contentment and satisfaction.
Almond Tree at the Shore Club
simply takes it to a whole new level.
Reservations 649 339 8000
theshoreclubtc.com
ALMOND TREE
COURTYARD BAR
Dinner 6 –10:30pm
5pm – Midnight

JAMAICA’S
ULTIMATE
VOTED WORLD’S BEST
23
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS
5 DISTINCT VILLAGES TO
CHOOSE FROM
Key West Italian
1. Village 2. Village
3. Caribbean
Village
4. French
Village
5. Seaside
Village
TM/© 2021 Sesame Workshop
EVERYTHING’S INCLUDED FOR EVERYONE!
Unlimited fun and entertainment is all-included
at Beaches® Turks & Caicos. And now with our
Platinum Protocol of Cleanliness, our already
industry-leading safety and health practices are
even more enhanced, guaranteeing the peace of
mind you need to enjoy your time with us. Stay at
one village and play at all five choosing from every
land and water sport imaginable, an awe-inspiring
waterpark with a SurfStream® surf simulator, or simply just splash,
swim and sip the day away with new friends at a sparkling swim-up
pool bar. Pamper yourself in a world of tranquility at our Caribbeaninspired
Red Lane® Spa and then enjoy an all-included feast at one of
21 incredible 5-Star Global Gourmet restaurants and enjoy non-stop
bars and entertainment all for the price of one vacation. With all of this
activity at your fingertips, it’s no wonder Beaches Turks & Caicos has
held the top spot at the World Travel Awards for over two decades.
21 RESTAURANTS
@beachesresorts
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT BEACHES.COM, CALL 1-800-BEACHES
OR CALL YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/timesoftheislandsspring2021 or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and
conditions. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide
representative of Beaches Resorts.

contents
Departments
6 From the Editor
17 Remember When
The Birth of an Airport
Story & Photos By Bengt Soderqvist
24 Island Life
TSA Tales from the Out Islands
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb
30 Talking Taíno
Pandemic
By Lindsay Keegan, Betsy Carlson,
Michael Pateman and Bill Keegan
68 Resort Report
A Phoenix on North Caicos
By Jody Rathgeb
73 About the Islands/TCI Map
77 Subscription Form
78 Where to Stay
80 Dining
82 Classified Ads
Feature
46 An Osprey Day
Story & Photos By Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree
50 In Plain Sight
Treasures on the Beach
By Melissa Heres
Green Pages
36 The Green Invader
By B Naqqi Manco
39 Sunsets and Island Time
Story & Photos By Ben Farmer
43 Study Abroad
By Anna Handte-Reinecker
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2021 NO. 134
On the Cover
Marta Morton, owner/operator of Harbour Club Villas
(www.harbourclubvillas.com) took this photo of the
native Turks & Caicos rock iguana on Bay Cay. This
endemic animal is being threatened by the invasive green
iguana. See article on page 36.
Astrolabe
58 People of the Islands
Telling “A Caicos Sloop Story”
Story & Photos By Michael P. Pateman and
Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman
62 Selective Packing
By Matthew Matlack
68
RAMONA SETTLE
4 www.timespub.tc

TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Beachfront 5 Acre Mandalay Estate, Long Bay Beach
Nestled along coveted Long Bay Beach, Turks and Caicos Islands, Mandalay Estate offers a discerning
buyer an idyllic private retreat with 300 ft. of pristine, white sandy beach and brilliant turquoise waters.
Mandalay features 7 bedrooms and an award-winning architectural design capturing the essence of
open Caribbean living with a masterful layout that revolves around the spectacular multi-level pool.
US$18,500,000
Bernadette Hunt
Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Bernadette has lived in the Turks and Caicos
Islands for over 21 years and witnessed the
development and transition of the islands
into a significant tourist destination. Based
on independent figures her gross transaction
numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette
has listings on Providenciales, Pine Cay,
Ambergris Cay, North and Middle Caicos
and is delighted to work with sellers and
buyers of homes, condos, commercial real
estate and vacant undeveloped sites.
Beachfront Sunrise Villa, Emerald Point
Sunrise Villa is a stunning two-storey 5-bedroom, 6 and a half bathroom beachfront residence located
in Emerald Point, one of the most prestigious developments in the Turks and Caicos Islands. This
newly built (2018) magnificent property offers nearly 9,000 sq. ft. of luxury indoor/outdoor living
space, is set on .72 of an acre and boasts just over 100 ft. of beautiful white sandy beach frontage.
US$7,250,000
Turks and Caicos Property is the leading
independent real estate firm in the Turks and
Caicos Islands with offices located at Ocean
Club West Resort and Ocean Club West
Plaza on the Grace Bay Road.
Bernadette’s reputation and success has been
earned over time through her dedication,
enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her
personal experience as having practiced law
in the islands for more than 10 years together
with owning and renovating a number of
properties means she is well-placed to advise
her customers and developers on what to
anticipate in the purchasing and construction
process.
Bernadette delights in working in the real
estate industry and her humor and energy
make her a pleasure to work with.
Beachfront Crystal Sands Villa, Sapodilla Bay
Crystal Sands Villa is a luxury beachfront villa in Sapodilla Bay, one of the Turks and Caicos most
coveted locations to reside. With its westerly exposure, you will enjoy the most magical sunsets the
islands have to offer. The 4 bedroom, 4,200 sq. ft. property is perfect for large family gatherings. Each
bedroom features an ensuite bathroom and breathtaking views of the tranquil beach and turquoise waters.
Please contact Bernadette if you would like
to find out more about owning real estate in
the Turks & Caicos Islands.
US$4,250,000

from the editor
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
This image of a nest of osprey chicks represents how we may feel in early 2021.
Under His Wings
He will cover you with His feathers, and under His wings, you will find refuge. Psalm 91:4
The image of a nest of osprey chicks above symbolizes how many of us may feel in early 2021—vulnerable,
needy, raw. We’re one year into the pandemic. The dream-like days of lockdown are over, reserves—literally and
emotionally—are nearly gone and life is not even vaguely back to normal.
This issue of Times of the Islands—the first in print for widespread distribution since last Spring—feels a bit like
these delicate chicks. We’re putting it out there, even though the business community that supports us is struggling.
While tourist arrivals are finally starting to gain momentum, the market is not the same. There are fewer vacationers
and more long-term visitors; high-end real estate is booming as the wealthy seek to escape reality. How will this affect
the average TCI resident? How will the country adjust?
What you’ll see as you turn these pages is our unrivaled quarterly chronicle of TCI nature, history and culture—
seeking to glorify one of God’s most wonderful creations. We never stopped, you know. In 2020, we produced three,
all-new, outstanding issues of Times of the Islands, available on-line in flippable format. I can’t thank enough our
contributors who kept on writing, researching and shooting photos, and our staunch advertisers, without whom we
would not be here.
It hasn’t been so bad to let my “soft down” show. When I stop trying to have all the answers, solve every problem,
and simply let go, seek refuge and trust, a funny thing happens. The shadows disappear and a brilliant Light filters
in under those loving wings. With it, hope for better days ahead.
Kathy Borsuk, Editor • timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788
6 www.timespub.tc

14 Boathouses are already
reserved or sold
1, 2, or 3 bedroom layouts
available
Construction targeted to
commence this summer 2021
Prices starting from $795,000
Register interest today at
livesouthbank.com
For more information contact
Nina Siegenthaler at 649.231.0707
Joe Zahm at 649.231.6188
or email: nina@tcsothebysrealty.com
The Boathouses, set around a landscaped park and pool, offer a vibrant village-style
atmosphere on the marina waterfront. Every residence has a private boat dock offering
instant access to life on the water, with peaceful terraces to enjoy sunsets over Juba Sound.
Developed by Windward: www.windward.tc
Managed by:
Brand partner:

TM/© 2021 Sesame Workshop

The Last of the True Exotics
IsFIRST
For
FAMILIES
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN
ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD
Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held the top spot
at the World Travel Awards for two decades by
offering families more of everything on the world’s
best beach. Stay at one village and play at all five
villages—Key West, Italian, Caribbean, French and
Seaside —featuring every land and water sport*, an
awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star
Global Gourmet dining at 21 incredible restaurants,
and non-stop bars and entertainment—all for the
price of one vacation. Also included are tips, taxes,
and Beaches transfers.* And with trend-setting
food trucks, live entertainment, and family-sized
accommodations…the World’s Best Family Resorts
include everything families want and deserve.
Best For Families
Readers’ Choice winner
Best Hotel in
the Caribbean
Kimonos
Beaches Turks & Caicos
is on the world’s
TOP 5 BEST BEACHES
by tripadvisor ®
For more information visit BEACHES.COM
1-800-BEACHES or call your Travel Advisor
@beachesresorts
BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S BEST
23
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/timesoftheislandsspr2021 or call 1-800-BEACHES for
important terms and conditions. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an
affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Beaches Resorts.

For the fun of it.
More Choices with
Restaurants
Trendy
Food
Trucks
For the great selection.
THE WORLD’S BEST SERVES THE WORLD’S BEST!
ROBERT MONDAVI
TWIN OAKS ® WINES
Only Beaches ® Resorts includes Robert
Mondavi Twin Oaks ® wines. With six
varietals to choose from, selected
exclusively for Beaches, guests can
savour an endless pour of the best
wines at every meal and at every bar.
JAMAICA BLUE MOUNTAIN
BLEND COFFEE
The world’s finest and most
sought-after coffee beans are
grown on the misty slopes
of Jamaica’s soaring Blue
Mountain range. A blend of
Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee
is brewed fresh and served
complimentary at
Beaches Resorts. Only the
best for our guests.

World-Class
Master Chefs
5-Star Global Gourmet dining at
Beaches Resorts brings new sights,
sounds and tastes to each meal with
authentic dishes from around the globe.
Internationally trained chefs create
innovative dishes that are a fusion of
the freshest ingredients. Recipes from
around the world are as delicious as
dining in the country of origin. We
accommodate all dietary requirements
and restrictions to ensure a worry-free
vacation for you and your loved ones.
For the
taste of it.
Everyone has different tastes, and that’s why Beaches Turks & Caicos
includes anytime 5-Star Global Gourmet dining at 21 outstanding
restaurants. That means you can dine when you want, where you want,
and enjoy as much as you want, choosing from an unprecedented variety
of cuisines from around the world. From the Southwest to Asia, Italy to
France, and from Great Britain to the Caribbean, every delicious morsel
at every incredible restaurant offers a new chef-inspired taste—all
perfectly paired with unlimited pours of Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks ®
wines. Plus special menus and restaurants for the kids!
More Quality Inclusions
Than Any Other Resorts In The World
Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations,
Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide
representative of Beaches Resorts.
Caribbean's Leading
All-Inclusive Family
WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE Resort
FAMILY RESORTS
2
0
2
0
BEACHES.COM
1-800-BEACHES or call your Travel Advisor
23
@ beachesresorts
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS

TIMES
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
OF THE
ISLANDS
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Borsuk, Bengt Soderqvist, Dr. Betsy Carlson,
Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree, Ben Farmer, Anna Handte-
Reinecker, Melissa Heres, Dr. Bill Keegan, Lindsay Keegan,
Bryan N. Manco, Matthew Matlack, Claire Parrish,
Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman,
Jody Rathgeb, Lisa Talbot.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Bottle Creek Lodge, Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree, Ben Farmer,
John Galleymore, Anna Handte-Reinecker, Melissa Heres,
Heidi Hertler, Bryan N. Manco, Matthew Matlack,
Marta Morton, Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman, Tom Rathgeb,
Sand Dollar Images, Ramona Settle, Bengt Soderqvist,
iStockphoto.com, Lisa Talbot.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Wavey Line Publishing
PRINTING
PF Solutions, Miami, FL
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd.
Copyright © 2021 by Times Publications Ltd. All rights reserved
under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.
No part of this publication may be
reproduced without written permission.
Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for
non-U.S. mailing addresses
Submissions We welcome submission of articles or photography, but
assume no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material.
Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no
event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any
claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.
S A V E O V E R 5 0 %
O N Y O U R P O W E R B I L L
W I T H S O L A R E N E R G Y
Call us today for a renewable energy consultation
+1 649 332 1393 or +1 649 431 4242
While every care has been taken in the compilation and reproduction of
information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is
subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no
responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or other errors.
Business Office
Times Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,
Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Tel 649 431 4788
Advertising 649 431 7527
E-mail timespub@tciway.tc
Web www.timespub.tc
www.greenrevolutionltd.com
16 www.timespub.tc

emember when
This 1967 photograph shows the original airstrip after it had been extended to 1,200 feet. The Kew Town roundabout is approximately where
the 90º turn in the track road is. Walkin Marine’s current location is left of the standing water at the top of the picture.
The Birth of an Airport
Providenciales’ international airport started out as a handmade runway.
Story & Photos By Bengt Soderqvist
Pre-COVID-19, the Providenciales International Airport was bustling with flights from around the world,
especially on weekends during the busy winter/spring months. In 2019, nearly half a million visitors
arrived on the 9,199-foot runway and passed through the singular terminal building. International airlines
currently serving the Turks & Caicos include American Airlines, Delta, United, jetBlue, Air Canada, West
Jet, British Airways and InterCaribbean Airways. Travel is slowly increasing as visitors crave the peaceful,
natural beauty the country has to offer. The TCI Assured program helps ensure the health and safety of
travellers and residents.
But 60 years ago there were no airports, no flight infrastructure and bush was cleared away to create
an airstrip.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 17

In the 1960s before development started on
Providenciales, the TCI Government had a work program
run by the district constables. This made it possible for
some of the residents to earn money. At that time, most
families made a living farming the land and fishing the
sea, but cash was needed to buy a few staples—flour, oil,
sugar, for instance.
In Blue Hills the main work was to build a road in front
of the settlement tracing the beach. Rocks were carried
from the bush and placed in the sand. Other rocks were
broken up into smaller pieces using a hammer, then
placed in the voids between the larger rocks. After that,
sand was hauled up in buckets from the beach and sprinkled
over the rock base to make a smooth surface.
Another work project had been to build a 700-foot
long airstrip located in the valley where Kew Town is
today. The bushes were cleared and the largest rocks
removed.
In 1966, Fritz Ludington formed Provident Limited
and made a lease purchase agreement with the TCI
Government to develop 4,000 acres on the eastern part
of Providenciales. In October 1966 Fritz, together with
his friend Tommy Coleman and me arrived by boat on
Providenciales to start the development. The boat was a
65 foot workboat named the Seven Dwarves. I was hired
as a surveyor/engineer but the true job description was
more like “to do anything that was needed.”
Fritz understood that to have an efficient operation,
we needed to be able to come and go in a faster way
than by boat. We took a look at the 700 feet that had
been cleared and Fritz decided that his wife’s plane could
probably be used to land there, even if the surface was
pretty rough. Chris Ludington’s plane was a Cessna 180
with US registration number 74C, “74 Charlie” in pilot
lingo. Fritz needed to get back to the mainland and a few
days later 74 Charlie showed up for the historical landing.
(I was told that one or two airplanes had landed on the
strip prior to our arrival on Providenciales. I could never
get that confirmed so I don’t know if we were watching a
“first” landing or not.)
For the next six months we used the air strip quite
a lot. I think Chris wound up with the short end of the
stick because Provident more and more took over the use
of her plane. During this time Fritz hired Embry Rucker
as a pilot (among other things). Embry recently published
a book, Coming in for a Landing, where he tells
about flying in the Islands in the early days. The book is
available on Amazon and is also for sale at the Turks &
Caicos National Museum. (See https://www.timespub.
tc/2019/03/up-up-and-away/).
Fritz Ludington himself was an experienced pilot,
as were many others in the Provident group. Aviation
was very important in the early development of
Providenciales.
When the heavy equipment arrived in April 1967,
the first priority was to improve on the existing airstrip.
Provident had chartered Margaret of Exuma, a self propelled
barge fully loaded with heavy equipment. The
Bahamian captain entered through Sellar’s Cut, then zigzagged
between the coral heads up to the beach where
This 1966 image shows “74 Charlie” on take-off from the original 700-foot airstrip.
18 www.timespub.tc

The Leading Private Bank in the Turks and Caicos Islands
Where values are growing
Wealth Management • Bonds/Fixed Income
Investment Strategies • Foreign Exchange
Stocks/Equities • Precious Metals
Fixed deposits/CD’s • International Transfers
Turks & Caicos Banking Company Ltd.
The Regent Village, Unit H102, Grace Bay Road, Providenciales
Tel: +649 941 4994
Email: services@tcbc.tc • www.tcbc.tc
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 19
Regulated by the Financial Services Commission, Turks & Caicos Islands

This photograph shows Junior Rigby with the heavy equipment used to clear the “new airport” in 1967.
the National Park is today. The bow ramp was lowered
onto the beach and Provident’s brand new Caterpillar D8 people in government in those days. We were mostly
Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1
tractor crawled ashore with Billy Dodson at the controls. dealing with the Administrator Tony Golding, Magistrate
Fritz had hired Billy to head up Provident’s heavy equipment
division.
Once the D8 was ashore, it could drag the rest of the
load onto the beach, even if some of it got stuck in the
loose sand. With the D8, a grader and a roller available it
was time to start improving the airstrip. Billy, with Fritz
riding on the armrest, headed west through the bushes
with the D8 and made a narrow track all the way down to
the airstrip.
While this was going on I was still in Sweden finishing
off the topographic map that was needed to properly
plan our road system and subdivisions. Only part of that
original track became part of the final road system, but
it served the purpose of getting the equipment to the
airstrip. Billy very quickly added 500 feet to the east,
which brought the eastern end of the runway closer to
what today is Walkin Marine. With the grader and roller
he created an even, compacted surface—1,200 feet and
no loose rocks, luxury!
Part of the agreement with government was that
Provident construct a 4,500 foot runway with a coral surface
and the location should be outside the 4,000 acres
that was to be developed by Provident. Since we now had
the equipment, we wanted to get going on fulfilling our
obligations, so we asked the TCI Government where they
wanted us to build the runway. There weren’t that many
DISTRIBUTOR DISTRIBUTOR FOR FOR EVINRUDE && MERCURY MERCURY
OUTBOARDS, PURSUIT WORLD CLASS CAT, CAT,
SUNDANCE AND BOSTON WHALER BOATS
Lures and Live Bait
Marine Hardware & Gear
Fishing Gear & Supplies
Marine Paints & Varnish
Marine Batteries
Sebago Docksiders
& Sperry Topsiders Shoes
BLUE
BLUE
HILLS
HILLS
ROAD
ROAD
PROVIDENCIALES
PROVIDENCIALES
TURKS
TURKS
& CAICOS
CAICOS
ISLANDS,
ISLANDS,
B.W.I.
B.W.I.
PHONE: 649-946-4411
FAX: 649-946-4945
20 www.timespub.tc

PROVEN IN PROVO
435’ on Grace Bay Beach, a perennially acclaimed Caribbean destination.
30 years of construction development and hotel operations success.
A decade of travel industry awards and consistently high guest ratings.
10 years of strong ROI and very satisfied owners.
Where will you invest?
Windsong Resort Residences
Imaginative Phase II Resort Condominiums
Pre-Construction Pricing Available.
_____________________________
1-649-946-3766 • Toll Free (US/Canada): 1-855-WINDSONG (946-3766)
Stubbs Road, Grace Bay • Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands
www.windsongresidences.com • realestate@windsongresort.com

This is a very early picture (1967) of the “new” runway, when we could only use the small, white portion on the eastern end. You can also see
the 1,200 foot strip to the north (arrow).
Finbar Dempsey and Gus Lightbourne, who was the
elected representative for Providenciales. Planning and
survey departments were still to be formed.
The government suggested that we extend the location
where we had the 1,200 feet. As we now had the
proper topographic map available, I could show Fritz
that we could build a 4,500-foot runway there, but there
would be no room for future extension because we would
be jammed in between two hills. The map clearly showed
that if the runway was moved about half a mile south it
would be more suitable, because in that location there
was a lot of flat ground.
We were having a lot of discussions about where the
best location for the Providenciales airport should be.
Both Fritz and I agreed that the ideal location for an east–
west runway would be just south of North West Point.The
noisy approach and take off areas would be over water.
But this was 1967 and North West Point was about as far
away as the moon!
South Caicos District Commissioner Ben Bolt came
over on behalf of the government to inspect the location
for the runway that we were suggesting. First, I showed
him on the topo map why this was a good location. Then
we walked on the footpath from Blue Hills to Five Cays
which was flanked by a stone wall. When we reached
the proposed location, we jumped atop the wall to see
above the bushes. It was obvious there was a lot of flat,
level ground stretching far to the west. Ben Bolt agreed
that this looked like a good location, so the decision was
made then and there that this was where we were going
to build the runway for Providenciales and that’s where
we are still landing today!
The Providenciales International Airport underwent a major expansion/redevelopment program in 2011.
22 www.timespub.tc

I marked out the new runway, set up grade stakes and
Billy Dodson got to work with the D8 tractor. Billy had
also given Junior Rigby on-the-job training, and Junior
became an excellent operator, first on the D8 and later on
the grader. (In fact, many of the roads we are driving on
today were originally built by Junior.) We reserved 1,000
feet in width for the new runway, thinking of possible
future taxiways, but we originally only cleared 500 feet in
width. Very soon, Billy and Junior made a small area in the
northeast corner ready for landings and takeoffs. Once
we started operating from there, the original handmade
airstrip was never used again.
Even if Provident’s obligation to the government was
to build 4,500 feet, we originally cleared 6,000 feet. By
the early 1970s, the entire 6,000 feet had been built out
with a coral surface. Around 1977 the entire runway was
surfaced with a sealcoat.
Starting in 1981, a major upgrade was undertaken by
Johnston Construction, financed through a British grant.
This was part of Club Med’s deal, which required an airport
up to FAA standards. The runway was extended to
8,000 feet. The limestone base was recycled and reinforced
through cement stabilization, while the runway
was surfaced with a triple sealcoat. A new terminal was
built in the present location, replacing the original one
that Provident had built further east. In the 1990s, the
runway was resurfaced with hotmix asphalt. That work
was done during the nights to avoid interruption of operations.
The 2011 expansion took the runway to 9,200
feet. a
Author’s note: The D8 was a very important piece of
equipment and at least one of the guys on my survey
crew agreed. In the spring of 1969 there was a lot of talk
about the upcoming moon landing. I had told the guys
that this was just the beginning. In the future they would
shoot rockets from the moon so they would need something
like an airport. One of the guys said, “But how are
they going to get a D8 up there?” I think we agreed that it
would take many trips bringing up a small piece at a time.
In those days we got news via shortwave radio so we
knew that the moon landing would be shown live on TV.
We didn’t want to miss this event, so when the day came,
five or six of us in the Provident group flew to Puerto
Rico to watch the landing. Luckily, the Spanish commentator
was quiet for a few seconds so we could hear Neil
Armstrong’s famous words. A few years back, I was fortunate
enough to meet Buzz Aldrin, the second man on
the moon. He got a kick out of my story.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 23

island life
People who live or have homes on North and Middle Caicos don’t pack the normal vacation items like sunscreen or swimwear. They’re more
likely to fill their bags with household supplies that are hard to find on the outer islands.
TSA Tales from the Out Islands
The things we carry (or not).
Somewhere in a drawer at my North Caicos home is a collection of notices from the Transportation
Security Administration, telling me that my checked luggage has been inspected. These inspections have
become so regular that I now expect them, so sometimes I leave my own notes for TSA, letting them
know what is in some carefully-packed fragile parcel and asking them to re-package just as carefully. This
“correspondence” has been going on for years; I have a lot of notices.
24 www.timespub.tc
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos by Tom Rathgeb

Other homeowners on North and Middle Caicos
understand completely: We all bring weird stuff with us
to the Islands. Aware of what we might not find on the
outer islands and often unable or unwilling to shop in
Providenciales on our way to the ferry, we schlep it along
. . . plumbing connections, art supplies, specialized tools
and kitchen utensils, favorite foods, car parts and more.
I often bring construction glue, grout and glass mosaic
tiles, all of which apparently look suspicious on x-ray
(thus the inspections).
And then there are the TSA checkpoints scrutinizing
carry-on luggage. These are particularly vexing for
North and Middle Caicos folk, not because we’re trying to
break the rules, but for other various reasons: brain blips
during packing, innocent ignorance, simple forgetfulness
and (not least) the confusing capriciousness of TSA itself.
All lead to bewildering confiscations, comic explanations
and a never-fail conversation starter at island gatherings.
Death by butter
For Joe and Denise Ashcraft, an attempt at keeping to
the allowable weight in their checked bag led to a loss
of flatware. Even though Joe had researched whether
their set would be allowed in his backpack (and was told
yes, as long as the table knives were rounded and blunt
instead of sharp), there was a butter-knife bung-up. The
line agent at the TSA checkpoint was inclined to allow the
knives, but her supervisor said no. “The people aboard
our plane will be happy to know that they have been
saved from being buttered,” Denise commented later in
a Facebook post.
The post brought out others who have had items confiscated,
along with tales of some of the exchanges and
explanations. When TSA took some drill bits from Howard
Bartels of Major Hill, he was told that with them he might
be able to disassemble the plane. Of course, without the
drill itself, it would take a very long time to do any sort
of damage during a flight, even if that was intended!
Other drill bits have been taken from Nestor and Dina
Fernandez and me, though with less amusement.
Joe and Denise Ashcraft bought a set of table utensils from Target, intending them for their North Caicos home. The knives were confiscated
by TSA, even though Joe had been told that rounded butter knives were allowable in carry-on luggage.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 25

The longest established legal practice
in the Turks & Caicos Islands
Real Estate Investments
& Property Development
Immigration, Residency
& Business Licensing
Company & Commercial Law
Trusts & Estate Planning
Banking & Insurance
1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97
Leeward Highway, Providenciales
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564
E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70
Market Street, Grand Turk
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc
john redmond associates ltd.
architects & designers
construction consultants
project management
p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.
tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc
Peanut butter is an oft-confiscated item at TSA checkpoints. That’s
because it is viewed as a liquid, and only 3.4 ounces (100 ml) of a
liquid is allowed. Since the blob of peanut butter shown here is of
the proper amount, it doesn’t make sense to bring an item that is
available everywhere.
In general, according to the TSA website, tools longer
than seven inches are prohibited in carry-on bags,
although that does not explain the drill bits. A deep reading
of the site does explain, however, some of the strange
“yeas” and “nays” of what is allowed; if someone in TSA
decides something can be used as a weapon, it is banned.
And so you cannot take a cutting board with you on the
plane. We suppose that is so you cannot whack someone
with it. Pots and pans are allowed except for cast iron
skillets. (It seems someone was watching “Fried Green
Tomatoes” while drafting the list.)
A liquid by any other name
Liquids seem to be the most-confiscated items, with people
reporting hot sauce, hand cream, luxury hair products
and gourmet honey going into the relinquishment bin
(it’s always the expensive stuff). But the definition of “liquid”
is, well, fluid. For TSA, peanut butter is a liquid. So is
glue (including pipe cement) and caulking. And a Magic
8-Ball—that fortune-telling toy from Mattel—is definitely
a liquid. Actually, all those things, except the 8-Ball, are
allowed in a carry-on bag as long as they do not exceed
3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters. The key is in the amount.
The line between liquid and solid puts other foodstuffs
in jeopardy as well. The “liquid” in fresh eggs is,
yes, less liquid than that in the Magic 8-Ball, but the egg
26 www.timespub.tc

is easier to break open. Yet fresh eggs are on the okay
list. You can carry on a home-baked pie, but not a container
of piecrust filling. Soft cheeses are forbidden, but
hard cheeses are allowed. Don’t count on an agent knowing
the difference, though. Cheryl Coffin was stopped for
a wedge of Parmesan (hard and grateable) and got it to
North Caicos only after explaining the location of North
and her passion (no, NEED) for good Parm.
Powder power
“Powder-like substances greater than 12 oz./350 ml must
be placed in a separate bin for x-ray screening,” states the
TSA website. This does not mean they will come through
the other side of the line with you. Many travelers have
been relieved of baby powder, containers other than
individual packs of artificial sweetener and DampRid, a
moisture-absorbing product. Check ‘em, everyone!
Are you a bit confused by all this? You can find a lot
of info at www.tsa.gov, or put a question to www.facebook.com/AskTSA.
But even if one scrupulously follows
the regulations, there’s no telling what will happen at the
checkpoint, where logic, science and common sense have
little pull. As you pack your carry-on bag, remember that
the best thing to bring with you is a sense of humor. a
Mattel’s Magic 8-Ball is a definite no-no at a TSA checkpoint, even
though its liquid (alcohol and dye) is likely within the 3.4-ounce limit
and it is sealed within the plastic.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 27

You can’t make this up
Just for the fun of it, here is a direct quote from the
TSA website: “A live lobster is allowed through security
and must be transported in a clear, plastic, spill
proof container. A TSA officer will visually inspect
your lobster at the checkpoint. We recommend that
you contact your airline to determine your airline’s
policy on traveling with your lobster before arriving
at the airport.”
Glug, glug, glug!
By now everyone knows that you can’t take a water
bottle with you through a TSA checkpoint, and most
people who forget they’ve been carrying one simply
shrug and ditch it. But the full metal water bottle
B Naqqi Manco of North Caicos was holding was a
customized gift made by his sister-in-law, featuring
photos of his niece and nephew. He relates the story
of its near-confiscation: “They were holding it over
the bin and I told them I can drink the water and they
were wavering on it, and someone else (no idea who,
I’m thinking another agent) shouted, ‘Awww, let him
drink it, look at those precious babies.’ The agent
doubtfully asked me if I could down the full liter and
I made an ‘Oh please’ look, and pretty much downed
it in one gulp. I was allowed to keep my bottle.” a
28 www.timespub.tc

Building Your Vision, Delivering Excellence, and Exceeding Expectations -
Time After Time.
Projetech offers turnkey Construction Management and General Contracting
Services for Residential, Commercial and Hotel & Condominium Projects in the
Turks & Caicos Islands. Our depth of experience is unrivaled and our
commitment to quality shows in the hundreds of projects we’ve completed in the
Turks & Caicos since our beginnings in 1996.
E S T A B L I SHE D 1 9 9 6
C O N S TRUCTI O N M ANA G E M E N T & S E R V I C E S L T D
PO BOX 659 | PROJECT HOUSE | LEEWARD HIGHWAY | PROVIDENCIALES | TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS
T: 649.941.3508 | F: 649.941.5824 | INFO@PROJETECH.TC | WWW.PROJETECH.TC |

ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

talking taíno
Opposite page: Although we are thick in the midst of dealing with COVID-19, the first pandemic in the Americas may date to the arrival of
Christopher Columbus.
Above: This vintage etching circa 19th century by Ivan Konstantinovich Aivazovsky depicts the landing of Christopher Columbus.
ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
Pandemic
How much of Taíno depopulation was the result of disease?
Today’s “Talking Taíno” is brought to you by the letters R and N. First R—not the pirate’s favorite letter
(which actually is the C)—but R 0 (“R naught”), the mathematical term that indicates how contagious an
infectious disease is. We invited Lindsay to join us because she wrote her dissertation on R 0 , and has
spent her young career modeling infectious disease transmission, including COVID-19, malaria and zika.
The arrival of vaccines will help us to “turn the corner,” but unfortunately, we’re still a long way from the
end of the coronavirus pandemic.
By Lindsay Keegan, Betsy Carlson, Michael Pateman and Bill Keegan
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 31

Wear a mask, wash your hands,
socially distance, get vaccinated
The epidemiologists had warned us. The virologists told
us it was lethal, and we had no immunity. The modelers
predicted dire consequences. Front-line doctors and
nurses showed us overflowing hospital wards; refrigerator
trucks were parked out back. And Johns Hopkins kept
count: 2,000,000+ deaths worldwide. How could we let
this happen? Especially since this isn’t our first rodeo. In
fact, the first pandemic in the Americas may date to the
arrival of Christopher Columbus. More about Columbus
in a bit, but first back to R 0.
The density of a population is key to the speed of
disease spread. R 0 describes that spread if everyone is
immunologically naïve (totally susceptible) in the absence
of interventions (such as social distancing or mask use).
In a nutshell, R 0 is the average number of individuals that
a contagious individual will infect. Granted, not everyone
who is contagious will infect someone else, but there are
individuals whose physical response (excessive shedding
of the virus) or personal actions (ignoring sanitary behavior)
are “superspreaders,” who infect far more than their
allotted R 0 .
For COVID-19, the current pandemic apparently
began in Wuhan, China in December 2019 and first
appeared in New York in early 2020. Epidemiologists
estimate the R 0 for the original SARS-CoV-2 virus ranges
from 2 to 3 (meaning one individual will infect two to
three other individuals). In comparison, the new variants
that have emerged recently are 60% more contagious (R 0
= 3.2–4.8). Smallpox is estimated to have an R 0 = 3.5–
6, which means it is 1.75–2 times more infectious than
COVID-19 has been. Pandemic influenza, including the
1918 “Spanish flu” (R 0 = 1.8–3.6) is on par with COVID-19,
while seasonal flu is considerably lower (R 0 = 1.2–1.4). In
gallows humor, diseases spread because of density and
density: Population density—in particular how spatially
clustered susceptible people are and the “dense-ity” of
the population—or how much they bury their heads in the
sand in response to disease.
Wear a mask, wash your hands,
socially distance, get vaccinated
Back to Columbus, and the phenomenon known as the
Columbian Exchange—the transfer of plants, animals,
people (and diseases) between the Old and New Worlds.
In historian Alfred Crosby’s study of the Exchange, he
gave the name “virgin soil epidemics” to diseases in which
a population had no previous contact and are therefore
immunologically defenseless. In this regard, the politics
of disease, what David Jones has called “rationalizing epidemics,”
has been used both to blame the source (“China
virus”) and absolve those who transmit the disease by
blaming the victim (in this case the Native peoples of the
Americas) for lacking immunity and being genetically
naïve.
By this logic the fault did not lie with the Spanish
and other Europeans who came to the New World,
even though it was Old World diseases that caused the
demise of Indigenous societies. Indeed, accounts from
the British settlement of New England in the mid-1600s
clearly describe the horrific impact of European diseases,
especially smallpox, which decimated the Narragansett,
Massachusett, Wapanoag and other Indigenous communities.
The colonists’ sentiment was, “God hathe consumed
the natives with miraculous plague,” and “cleared our
title” to New England.
It is surprising that there are no similar descriptions
of Taíno mortality during the initial Spanish invasion.
Why not? Were pathogens, unwittingly transmitted by the
Spanish invaders, responsible for the rapid collapse of
Taíno society? Conversely, did pathogens transmitted by
the Taíno cause the death of numerous Spaniards in the
early years of Spanish settlement in the Caribbean? To
find the answers, we need to examine the different potential
diagnoses of the Columbian Exchange with respect to
disease symptoms and etiology.
The Columbian Exchange went both ways and sometimes
it was the colonizers who got sick. Historically, little
attention has been paid to dead Colonial Spaniards, yet
die they did and at alarming rates. Within a week of landing
at La Isabela, the first Spanish settlement in the New
World established on the north coast of the Dominican
Republic in 1493, at least one-third of the 1,200 men
Columbus brought with him on his second voyage fell
sick, half were incapacitated soon after, and an unspecified
number died. When newly appointed Governor
Nicolas Ovando replaced Columbus in Hispaniola in
1502, the 1,000 men he brought with him fell sick and
the majority died. Bartolomé de las Casas (the principal
eyewitness chronicler) blamed a new disease—syphilis—
but syphilis does not kill quickly, taking on average of
10–30 years from exposure to death. The culprit was certainly
not syphilis.
Wear a mask, wash your hands,
socially distance, get vaccinated
32 www.timespub.tc

This llustrated panel from the 16th-century Florentine Codex depicts a Mesoamerican infected with smallpox.
Fever was the only symptom mentioned at the time.
Illness was attributed to the change of climate, diet and
hard work; but since more than eleven weeks had passed
since they left the Canary Islands, scurvy could be implicated.
Scurvy is a debilitating disease caused by a lack of
vitamin C in the diet; symptoms can appear in as little as
a month and left untreated it can quickly lead to death
from infection or bleeding. Or maybe the illness afflicting
the Spaniards was an indigenous form of malaria?
Another possibility is a type of influenza that starts
in pigs (H1N1). Pigs were first brought to the Americas
on Columbus’s second voyage. The close association of
pigs and humans in confined ship spaces could implicate
“swine flu” as an epidemic agent. (The transmission of
disease from infected animals to humans is called “zoonotic
spillover.”) It is possible that the Spaniards who
died at La Isabela succumbed to the flu, perhaps even a
variant of swine flu, which they could have introduced to
Hispaniola as early as 1493. We may never know which
diseases were introduced by the Spanish, although recent
advances in ancient DNA research have identified the
genetic signatures of some diseases in human skeletons.
Wear a mask, wash your hands,
socially distance, get vaccinated
In recent centuries, modern Indigenous communities in
tropical South America have suffered the highest mortality
(circa 25%) from measles, malaria and influenza
epidemics. However, the first reported case of measles
in the Americas dates to 1765, so measles is an unlikely
candidate for a late 15th century epidemic. Less virulent
strains of malaria were present in the pre-Colonial
Americas. If present in the Caribbean, then the Taíno
may have developed some level of immunity. People
who live in highly endemic malaria settings develop
immunity to symptoms by puberty. Its main symptom is
“cyclical” fevers, where the fevers rise and fall as parasites
move between the liver and the blood stream to
reproduce. This would explain how malaria might have
had a greater impact on Spanish health and potentially
deaths. Nevertheless, the most deadly malarial parasite
(Plasmodium falciparum) was first transported to the
Americas with enslaved Africans beginning in the mid-
1500s. Here again, malaria is not a good candidate for
an earlier epidemic among the Taínos.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 33

This vintage illustration features Christopher Columbus in 1492 standing among his crew aboard the Santa Maria with the distant view of an
island on the horizon. Interestingly, the Columbian Exchange went both ways and sometimes it was the colonizers who got sick. Historically,
little attention has been paid to dead Colonial Spaniards, yet die they did and at alarming rates.
Influenza virus, a pathogen with known pandemic
potential, was possibly introduced in the early years of
Spanish contact. However, the first reliable report of
influenza involved transmission from Africa to Europe
in 1510, and flu does not spread very well in equatorial
regions. We now know that influenza is particularly
good at “escaping” our immune system through frequent
viral evolution of the part of the virus that interacts with
our immune system. Despite recent claims to the contrary,
flu is a deadly disease that is today held in check
by vaccines, therapies and other medical interventions.
In addition, mask wearing and social distancing during
the current COVID-19 crisis contributed to a significant
decline in influenza and other respiratory infections and
deaths this year.
The most stunning example of a deadly flu is the
“Great Influenza” of 1918. It occurred before a viral agent
had been identified and spurred remarkable scientific
efforts to develop a vaccine. Our modern Public Health
Service was created to counter its spread. John Barry
described how the initial outbreak in an army camp in
Kansas blossomed into a global pandemic that killed as
many as 100 million people worldwide. Although com-
monly known as the “Spanish flu,” it did not originate
there. Rather, Spain had the only press in which the
epidemic was accurately reported. In the United States,
where the virus originated, press coverage was tightly
restricted at the height of World War I. The first victim in
the politics of disease was any “real news” coverage of
this pandemic.
Wear a mask, wash your hands,
socially distance, get vaccinated
We have saved the most deadly virgin soil pathogen
for last: smallpox. Smallpox is estimated to have killed
around 500 million people worldwide in the last century
alone. Although “completely eradicated” in 1980, it has
recently reappeared in some rare cases. With distinctive
symptoms (red pustules or “pox”), it is rather unlikely to
be misidentified even by non-medical personnel. The first
smallpox pandemic in the Americas began in 1517, so it
could not have been responsible for initial high mortality
among the Taínos. Nevertheless, it was the final nail in
their coffin. A recorded Taíno population of 28,000 in
1514 was reduced to only 250 by 1540.
In the British colonies of North America, smallpox
34 www.timespub.tc

TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1
is infamous as the first biological weapon, with British
colonists infecting local Natives and American soldiers
reportedly distributing infected blankets out west. The
disease ravaged Native communities in the United States
until the 1880s, long after an effective vaccine had
become available. In fact, attention to smallpox waned
only after it was superseded by tuberculosis as the principal
scourge of Native Americans.
The histories of those lethal diseases (smallpox 1517,
malaria 1550, measles 1765) show that they could not
have been responsible for a virgin soil epidemic during
the first decades of European contact. This leaves influenza
as the last remaining candidate, but the evidence is
not conclusive.
We’ll close this essay with the letter N, a mathematical
notation used to indicate the size of a population.
Columbus’s brother Bartholomew supposedly counted a
Taíno population of 1,100,000 in 1494. Often repeated
in 16th century accounts, Las Casas eventually decided
that the N was too small for the purposes of his polemic
against the mistreatment of the Natives. Within 30 years
he first tripled and then quadrupled the N to 4 million
souls. Although the numbers were obviously inflated to
serve a “moral” agenda, historians felt a need to explain
the rapid demise of thriving Caribbean societies, and they
did so by proposing virgin soil epidemics caused by Old
World diseases.
Bottom line: It is unlikely that disease was the major
factor in the depopulation of Hispaniola and demise of the
Taínos at the dawn of the 16th century.
In a future essay we’ll explore exciting new genetics
research that could dramatically improve our ability
to calculate past population numbers. By knowing how
many people were susceptible, we can better appreciate
the historical impacts of infectious diseases. There is still
a lot to be learned about the letters R and N. In the meantime,
wear a mask, wash your hands, socially distance
and get vaccinated. a
Dr. Lindsay Keegan is Research Assistant Professor in
the Division of Epidemiology (University of Utah); Dr.
Betsy Carlson is Senior Archaeologist at Southeastern
Archaeological Research (SEARCH, Inc.) in Jonesville, FL;
Dr. Michael Pateman is former Director of the Turks &
Caicos National Museum and currently Curator/Lab
Director of the AEX Maritime Museum on Grand Bahama;
and Dr. Bill Keegan is Curator of Caribbean Archaeology
at the Florida Museum of Natural History (University of
Florida).
Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,
mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.
TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM
Taino Paintings
by Theodore Morris
tainopaintings.weebly.com
mail:morristheodore@hotmail.com
3910 Longhorn Dr - Sarasota, Fl34233
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 35

green pages
Newsletter of the Department of Environment & Coastal Resources
Head office: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales
Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/
B NAQQI MANCO
When compared to the green iguana, native Turks & Caicos rock iguanas have stouter, heavier bodies with a tail only as long as the body
and a dark khaki-green or blue-grey colour.
The Green Invader
New reporting hotline for green iguana sightings.
By B Naqqi Manco, Acting Assistant Director of Environmental Research & Development, DECR
Our very special endemic Turks & Caicos rock iguanas Cyclura carinata was recently down-listed on
the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) category from Critically Endangered to
Endangered. This is due largely to decades of hard work by numerous institutions, including the San
Diego Zoo, Caribbean Wildlife Foundation, Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, Turks & Caicos
National Trust, Department of Environment & Coastal Resources, Department of Agriculture, Department
of Environmental Health, Ports Authority and others.
36 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
While their numbers have increased in some areas, a
new threat to the rock iguanas has come to the Turks &
Caicos Islands in the form of a distant relative. The green
iguana Iguana iguana has already become widespread on
many other Caribbean islands where it is a serious threat
to wildlife and infrastructure.
Green iguanas are invasive in the Turks & Caicos
Islands and differ from our endemic Turks & Caicos rock
iguanas by being overall larger with much longer bodies
and tails, and usually a brighter green colour. Native to
Central and South America, they pose a serious threat
to our unique ecosystems and especially to the endemic
rock iguanas. They carry a bacterial infection that is lethal
to rock iguanas, they can cause genetic pollution to rock
iguanas by hybridization, and they can also outcompete
rock iguanas for food and resources. Unlike our rock
iguanas which breed once a year and only lay 6–8 eggs,
green iguanas breed year-round and can lay over 70 eggs
in a clutch.
Green iguanas have been sighted on Providenciales in
in Grace Bay, as well as near Venetian Road, Leeward and
South Dock and on Grand Turk around the airport and
South Base. For years the Cayman Islands have been battling
green iguanas, which severely threaten their endemic
blue rock iguana Cyclura lewisi and Little Cayman rock
iguana Cyclura nubila caymanensis. Unfortunately, the
speed at which green iguanas breed has been hard to
overcome. In 2019, over one million green iguanas were
culled in a massive conservation effort, but over 100,000
are believed to have remained, so they still outnumber
the native iguana species by 1000 times.
Green iguanas find their way into TCI mostly through
imported materials—especially live plants—from south
Florida and Hispaniola, where they are also problematically
invasive. Their eggs, laid in the loose, moist potting
mix around plant roots in nurseries in other countries,
can hatch after the plants arrive in TCI.
SAND DOLLAR IMAGES
When compared to the native TCI rock iguana, the Invasive green
iguanas have an overall longer and more slender shape, a tail much
longer than the body, and usually a bright green colour.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 37

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
G r e e n
iguanas don’t
just threaten
our natural
heritage. Due
to their climbing
habits, they
are also known
to cause damaging
power
outages by
climbing utility
poles and
severe vehicle
damage by
falling out of
trees. They can also strip agricultural crops and garden
flowers bare, and foul swimming pools with their waste,
which they tend to release when swimming.
The TCI Department of Environment & Coastal
Resources (DECR), the Department of Agriculture, and
Turks & Caicos National Trust request assistance from
the general public for reports of sightings of invasive
green iguanas in the Turks & Caicos Islands, especially
Providenciales and Grand Turk.
Invasive green iguanas can now be reported to the
TCI Iguana Hotline by email at tciiguana@gmail.com or
WhatsApp at +1649 344 8296. Photos and locations of
sighted green iguanas help our response team find them
more easily. a
B NAQQI MANCO MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
38 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Sunsets mark a satisfying conclusion to the end of the day.
Sunsets and Island Time
A perfect pairing.
Story & Photos By Ben Farmer, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies
“Is it pretty tonight—the sunset?”
“I’ve never seen a bad one.”
This is a dialogue between two characters in Carl Hiaasen’s novel Skinny Dip. One character, Joey, is
temporarily blind after a harrowing experience at sea, and Stranahan is describing the evening Florida
Keys scenery to her. The concise acknowledgment by Stranahan that he has never seen a bad sunset is a
concept that stuck with me. I began the book while living and working in the Turks & Caicos Islands and
ever since then, I have been much more aware of the sunsets that the TCI has to offer.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 39

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Sunset viewing is a popular custom around the world,
especially in areas near the water. Crowds gather for
drum circles on the beaches of Tel Aviv, Israel; sunset
torch lightings and conch-blowing ceremonies are held
on Honolulu beaches in the United States; Hindu people
make pilgrimages to Kanyakumari, the southernmost tip
of India, where the sun sets over the confluence of three
seas. Film-makers have long used sunsets to portray
emotion in films and for good reason. The very nature of
viewing a sunset is romantic and speaks to humans on an
innate level—it marks a satisfying, deep conclusion to the
day.
In my experience, sunsets have a unique power to
bring people together. When I worked at The School for
Field Studies (SFS) on South Caicos, I saw it happen with
two different semesters of students. Gathering for sunsets
became a nightly ritual, treated with excitement and
respect. For some of us, this was an intentional commitment.
For instance, we had a student who never missed a
sunset in her time on South. For others, sunset-watching
was a sort of unspoken routine.
“When the sun has set, no candle can replace it.”
~ George R.R. Martin
Sunsets invoke a sense of awe and ultimately, this
is what gives them the power to bring people together.
Research shows that people feel more patient, satisfied
with life and willing to volunteer time for others after
experiencing the emotion of awe. Additionally, awe
expands our concept of time, making us feel that we have
more time available in our lives. Considering the many
awe-inspiring natural moments that happen daily in the
TCI, perhaps scientists would consider “island time” as
more than merely a saying.
Light plays an essential role in many of such natural
phenomena: sunsets, rainbows, mirages and even green
flashes. But what is the science behind these beautiful
tricks of the light?
There are a few unseen phenomena that allow you to
watch a sunset. To understand them, first consider how
humans perceive light generally. Light travels in a straight
line and only deviates from that path if an object, such as
a tiny molecule or particle, gets in its way. When we look
up at the sky during the day, we see blue. This is because
as the light from the sun enters Earth’s atmosphere,
nitrogen and oxygen molecules are in the light’s way.
Light hits these molecules and then scatters in many different
directions. All of the colors of the rainbow, which
ANNA HANDTE-REINECKER
Viewing the daily sunset is a ritual for students and staff at The School for Field Studies in South Caicos.
40 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
From top: As the sun dips below the horizon, colors with longer wavelength fill the sky. Rainbows are visible due to refraction within raindrops
and subsequent reflection between them.
make up the light spectrum, are scattered. However, blue
and violet light have the shortest wavelengths and highest
frequencies, so they are scattered most intensely by
nitrogen and oxygen molecules. If that were all though,
we would simply see purple-ish skies all the time. We see
blue skies because human eyes are not able to perceive
the violet hue in a combination of blue and violet, and
instead we see just a mixture of pure blue and white light
—or simply, blue.
As the sun approaches the horizon, the angle of the
sun relative to your vantage point on Earth changes. This
mean that light rays must travel farther through the atmosphere
to reach your eyes. Blue light scatters out by this
point, and the colors with longer wavelength—yellows,
MELISSA HERES
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 41

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
floating islands on the horizon
due to scattering between layers
of air with different temperatures.
Green flashes, one of the
most revered and elusive phenomena
on Earth, are sometimes
visible with very clear conditions.
A combination of the mirage
effect and the sun dipping below
the horizon bring about this otherworldly
sight.
The common theme with each
of these phenomena is that light
bends in fantastic ways to produce
an image that humans can
witness. Sunsets, however, are
the most reliable and can almost
always be planned for—especially
when you are on island time.
Darrell’s Sunset Cafe, Cox Hotel
and East Bay Resort are all excellent
locations on South Caicos to
see the beautiful oranges, pinks
and purples of a TCI sunset.
I worked on South Caicos
for only a year, but that year
has left an indelible impact. My
coworkers became some of my
closest friends, the community
welcomed us with open arms, and
we embraced island time wholeheartedly.
From the high school
There are many excellent locations on South Caicos to witness a beautiful TCI sunset.
basketball tournaments, to the
oranges, and pinks—fill the horizon. Some of the most Christmas tree lighting ceremony, to the lively Saturdays
vibrant red sunsets in the world are found in Hawaii, due that included community swim lessons and marine crafts
in part to the large amount of volcanic dust in the atmosphere
as well as high humidity there, which intensify well-being. That feeling became even clearer every time
at SFS, there was always a sense of strong community and
the scattering effect. In the Caribbean, red sunsets can we settled in for another sunset together.
result from huge dust plumes coming in from the Sahara
Desert, as they did this past summer.
“Never waste any amount of time doing anything
Rainbows, ocean mirages and green flashes are all important when there is a sunset outside that you
caused by different forms of scattering, or refraction, as should be sitting under!” ~ C. JoyBell C. a
well. Rainbows are visible due to refraction within raindrops
and subsequent reflection between them (but only For additional information about The School for Field
when rainclouds don’t block the light, such as right after Studies, visit www.fieldstudies.org or contact us on
a rainstorm subsides), and mirages create the illusion of South Caicos at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.
42 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Staff and students at The School for Field Studies station on South Caicos use learning and research to address environmental challenges.
Study Abroad
Celebrating three decades of learning and research.
By Anna Handte-Reinecker, Program Assistant, The School for Field Studies
Photos By Heidi Hertler, Director, The School for Field Studies
The School for Field Studies (SFS) is a US-based, non-profit study abroad program for university students
with field stations around the world. Its mission is to “create transformative study abroad experiences
through field-based learning and research.” SFS operates through a multidisciplinary approach that incorporates
social and ecological learning to address environmental challenges.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 43

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
The first cohort of 75 SFS students was sent into
the field in the summer of 1981. These students traveled
to different countries around the world from Kenya
to Belize. In the spring of 1985, the Center for Marine
Resource Studies (CMRS) was first opened although it was
not where it is today on South Caicos. It was originally
located on St. John at the Virgin Islands Environmental
Resource Station on Lameshur Bay. In 1989, Hurricane
Hugo devastated the Virgin Islands leading to the evacuation
of students and staff. As a result of this hurricane,
there was a strong shift in class topics and discussions
with an emphasis on the impacts of the storm. Made possible
by years of baseline data collection by SFS students
and staff, this final cohort of students on St. John was
able to evaluate the damage of the hurricane on both
reefs and seagrass beds.
Soon after, SFS purchased a small hotel on South
Caicos in the Turks & Caicos Islands—the Admiral’s Arms
Inn. CMRS relocated to its new home on South Caicos in
the early 1990s. With funds provided by the Laurance S.
Rockefeller Foundation, the center was able to upgrade
its research equipment as well as provide scholarships.
Upon arrival, SFS researchers began to focus on
the conch and lobster exports of South Caicos, which
had been decreasing significantly at the time. Research
focused on understanding the potential causes of this
decline, mapping marine habitats and generating species
lists for the proposed Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea
National Park.
In the 30 years since SFS first arrived on South Caicos,
students and staff have worked on countless research
projects and have documented changes in marine life and
habitats. In 2006 one of our current faculty, Dr. Caitlin
O’Brien was a student at SFS TCI. As a student, Dr. O’Brien
spent time working on shark and turtle tag and recapture
projects in the waters near South Caicos. Long term projects
such as these document the natural history of South
Caicos’ reefs, seagrass beds and shores. Other projects
include monitoring queen conch and lionfish populations
and coral communities. Faculty and research partners also
bring their experience and interests to SFS. All research is
presented to the community of South Caicos on a semester
basis.
In 2017, SFS was once again faced with the devastating
effects of hurricanes in the Caribbean. Hurricanes
Irma and Maria hit the TCI back to back, leaving much of
the island and center destroyed. SFS students and staff
were evacuated, with some joining the SFS Panama center
for the rest of the semester. It took many months
of hard work and dedication from staff to rebuild CMRS.
Eventually, the center was able to reopen and welcome a
new group of students.
Just like in 1989 on St. John after Hurricane Hugo,
long-term data collection has offered important insight
into the effects of these hurricanes on the marine systems
off South Caicos. In addition to hurricanes, global
warming and diseases have impacted the coral reef
around South Caicos. With the historical data that has
SFS students regularly interact with the South Caicos community with a variety of educational (and fun!) events.
44 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
been collected, these changes can be tracked and better
understood.
Today, students spend their time at CMRS pursuing
coursework, conducting research and being involved
with the community. SFS offers a Spring and Fall semester
as well as two summer sessions. Classes such as
Environmental Policy, Resource Management and Marine
Ecology are held during the fall and spring semesters. In
the summer, Fundamentals of Marine Conservation and
Marine Megafauna are offered.
Much has changed since SFS sent its first students
into the field in 1981. SFS has grown significantly and now
operates field stations in Australia, Bhutan, Cambodia,
Chile, Costa Rica, Kenya, Panama, Peru, Tanzania and
here in the Turks & Caicos Islands. Throughout moves
across the Caribbean and difficult re-builds following
hurricanes, CMRS has stayed strong. What has remained
constant over the years is the dedication and enthusiasm
of students and staff to work with the community
of South Caicos to document and research the marine
ecosystems which make the TCI “Beautiful by Nature.” a
For additional information about The School for Field
Studies, visit www.fieldstudies.org or contact us on
South Caicos at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.
Right: SFS students snorkel in the beautiful waters off South Caicos,
often documenting the natural history of the marine world.
Below: The school’s pool is often the site of swimming lessons for
local children.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 45

feature
Opposite page: This pair of osprey call home a nest perched on a rock tower above Pirate’s Cove on the southwest point of Providenciales.
Above: The author/photographer was lucky enough to see the male osprey bringing a freshly caught fish to feed the chicks in the nest.
An Osprey Day
Ready for the unexpected.
Story & Photos By Lorna Rae Daniel-Dupree, Lorna Rae Photography
Broken away from the mainland at West Harbour Bluff tands a sheer, sharp faced coral rock—a 30-foot
high tower protruding out of the ocean. Nestled on top, safe from human intervention, perches an osprey
nest complete with a pair of chicks.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 47

It is January 1, 2021. The day started as an excursion
to see the Pirate Cove with my mum, dad and brother.
This is my fourth visit to Providenciales, but the first time
I am going to the cove. To say the least, 2020 was a
strange year for everyone. After being separated from
my family for an entire year, across three different countries,
we were finally able to reunite over Christmas in the
Turks & Caicos Islands. I was only supposed to stay for a
week, but that week has turned into a month.
I grew up in South Africa but now live in Los Angeles
with my husband. We are both photographers and filmmakers
who love going on adventures and being in nature
observing wildlife. I have been fortunate enough to photograph
many amazing creatures and it is a thrill every
single time.
There is nothing better than starting the year with
a thrill. We arrive at the coordinates on the map. A stoic
osprey is perched on a nearby rock. Admiring the sight, I
think it is just a lucky coincidence. We continue towards
the path to the cove when my dad points out in the distance
a nest with a bird in silhouette. I think to myself,
“That’s beautiful. I wonder how far that is?”
We are exploring the cove when curiosity gets the
better of my mum and me. We decide to venture towards
the nest. Ill-prepared for hiking, we make our way over
the coral rocks in flip flops, fighting 24-knot winds.
There it is. The nest atop its tower.
Looking across the 20-foot gap are the nesting birds
and below them is the tumultuous turquoise ocean. I
must admit, I am nervous as I approach the edge. It is a
far drop and I surmise it would not be a pleasant fall. I get
down onto my stomach and rest the camera against the
ledge so that the lens is completely cantilevered.
It takes a few minutes for the mother osprey to accept
my presence. I wouldn’t say she appreciates it much, but
it’s probably a comfort for her knowing that I can’t get
any closer. The chicks chirp and fluff their feathers as the
mother keeps a beady eye on me.
Suddenly, she starts calling out—loud and aggressively.
I wonder, “Is she calling a mate? Or is she telling
me to back off?”
As I lift my head from the eyepiece, I notice something
in the distance. A wide-winged bird is flying towards us.
It takes me a second to realize that it is the male carrying
a fish in his talons. In a flush I keep repeating in shock, “I
can’t believe this! Mum! He has a fish!! He has a fish!”
He lands in a majestic swoop to chirping chicks. He
hands the fish off to the mother who inspects it as he
stands aside looking around the nest. As quickly as he
landed he takes off, on the hunt again.
We receive a phone call from our hungry father and
brother waiting patiently at the car. I pack up my camera
The mother osprey carefully breaks off small
bits of the fish to feed the hungry chicks.
48 www.timespub.tc

The author is a wildlife photographer and has learned never to leave
her camera behind.
and crawl to a safer area before standing. One last look
over my shoulder helps me absorb the beautiful moment.
Lo and behold, the osprey mother is now feeding the
chicks.
“I can come back,” I say to my mum. She convinces
me to seize the moment and without much persuasion, I
am back on the ledge with my camera.
I am being squawked at feverishly, but I stay still.
With what seems like a puff of frustration mama osprey
stops and side-eyes me while continuing to pick at the
fish. The chicks are demanding their servings in turns
while the mother sneaks a piece for herself every now and
then.
The phone rings again. I’ve lost track of time and now
my family’s bellies are grumbling for some food too. I say
goodbye and thank you to the birds. It seems cheesy but
it’s important to me. We make our way back down the
path, excitement and exhilaration running through our
veins from what we just witnessed.
If there is one thing I have learnt over the years, it
is: Always expect the unexpected. It can seem laborious
to lug camera equipment around for what seems to be a
quick excursion but honestly, it’s worth it every time.
Hopefully on my next trip to Providenciales, the nest
will still be there with a new family to photograph. a
To see more of my adventures around the world, visit my
Instagram @LornaRaePhotog.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 49

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

feature
Opposite page: The beach is a place that links land to sea; nowhere more beautiful than in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Above: Taking a close look into shallow waters reveals a treasure trove of tiny discoveries.
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
In Plain Sight
Treasures on the beach.
By Melissa Heres, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies
The beach has always been a special place for me, linking the land we traverse every day and the incredible
ocean environment that looms below. This link, if it could talk, could share so many stories. The
stories of how rocks have eroded over their journey from mountain tops to the beaches to create sand.
Or the story of how parrotfish gnaw at coral and leave behind digested white limestone, creating beautiful
mounds of white sand beaches like those found in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 51

Walking along these beaches, we can find little clues
that can tell their story, if we only stop to listen. This
includes anything from shells and coral skeletons to cameras
and plastic. This is a journey you can take at any
time and at your own pace. Let’s stroll along one of the
Turks & Caicos Islands’ beautiful beaches and explore the
wonders we can find.
Our journey begins with the beautiful white sand.
Although our sand doesn’t come from faraway mountain
tops, its journey is no less extravagant. Those beautiful
beaches that are so characteristic of the Caribbean are
likely composed of calcium carbonate, or limestone, and
weathered-away bits of the limestone islands. As rain and
storms wash over the land, they slowly erode away the
rocks and minerals that make up these islands, which can
end up as sand on the beaches.
But how does limestone find its way onto the beach?
This limestone actually plays a huge role in our oceans
and is one of the magical links between those mysterious
depths and our morning beach walks.
Animals such as corals, mollusks and echinoderms
(think sea stars, sea biscuits and sand dollars) rely on
calcium carbonate to build their shells or skeletons. After
these organisms die, their shells or skeletons can be
eroded by wave energy and end up as sand. More inter-
Above: Unlike live sand dollars which have hair-like projections, a
sand dollar test (skeleton) will be smooth.
Below: Dead and dried out gorgonians, the main prey of flamingo
tongue snails, are often found along TCI’s beaches.
MELISSA HERES
MELISSA HERES
52 www.timespub.tc

MELISSA HERES
Scallop shells come in a variety of colors and sizes.
estingly, parrotfish actually use their specialized beaks
(hence their names) to eat live corals as a snack, digesting
the coral tissue and processing the now-pulverized
coral skeleton as waste. Those of you coral lovers, like
myself, might be wondering if parrotfish are bad for coral
reefs, considering they spend all day eating coral. In fact,
they also eat a lot of macroalgae, which is detrimental to
reef health, and allowing parrotfish to thrive is vital to
keep our reefs beautiful.
Moving down the beach, we can keep finding treasures.
The most obvious find for a beachcomber might be
the beautiful shells of gastropods. Although the following
list is far from comprehensive, it will give you some
insight into what you might find on the beaches of the
TCI and the stories they can tell.
Conch
Perhaps the most well-known and identifiable shell you
might stumble upon is the queen conch shell. With its
recognizable rosy pink interior and flamboyant flared lip,
this conch isn’t just good eating—it’s featured prominently
on the TCI’s national flag. Many of the conch you
will stumble upon are likely “knocked,” where a hammer
and chisel have been used to open a rectangular mark in
the spire to extract the conch meat.
Easily confused with queen conch are milk conch, as
their exteriors might look similar to someone unfamiliar
with conch. Milk conch, however, tend to have thicker lips
that don’t flare quite as much. These conch also lack the
characteristic pink interior and instead have a milky white
interior, hence their name.
Scallops
Scallops can come in all kinds of beautiful color variations.
They can be differentiated from other shells by
their distinct auricles, or ear-like projections on the right
and left sides of the shell ligament.
Flamingo Tongues
Flamingo tongues are beautifully orange and white colored
creatures underwater. Once dead, however, their
shells are a stark white because their coloring comes
from their mantle, a thin layer of tissue that covers the
shell.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 53

will lack this hairy tissue and will feel like a hard bonelike
material. Also, live sand dollars tend to be dark grey,
whereas their tests will be a lighter grey color.
You might also come upon coral skeletons during
your walk. Live coral is always attached to a sturdy substrate
and is covered by a thin layer of tissue, with their
skeleton underneath it. Corals are actually animals and
are also carnivorous! When these corals die, however,
their tissue disappears and all that is left is their skeleton.
Small indentations, or corallites, were the backbone
that protected the coral’s polyps. Oftentimes it is actually
possible to identify a coral species based on its skeleton.
MELISSA HERES
Conch shells can be turned into musical instruments. This conch horn
is being played by its creator, Anna Handte-Reinecker.
Tests & Skeletons
Besides shells, there are a variety of other links between
land and sea that can be found. One example are tests.
Tests are the interior, calcified skeletons that are created
by sea urchins, sand dollars and sea biscuits.
Especially when finding sand dollars, it’s important to
make sure that they’re not alive! Live sand dollars often
have hairy projections, while dead tests of sand dollars
Sea Glass
Sea glass is a common sight on TCI’s beaches. Varying
in color from green to brown and even the occasional
purple, this sea glass is sought-after for jewelry and other
decorations.
As a staff member at The School for Field Studies
Center for Marine Resource Studies (SFS CMRS) on South
Caicos, I’m met with a lot of questions concerning what
students find on beaches, rocky shorelines and in the
water. One of the most fulfilling aspects of this job is
watching these students grow. As the semester progresses,
students become more aware of what they might
find in the marine environment. Not only are they learning
about what they find, but they are becoming invested
in preserving the wonderful world that lies beneath the
waves and they begin educating each other about marine
life. My hope is that they take the knowledge they’ve
gained from the small island of South Caicos and spread
it back home to their family, back at school to their peers,
and around the world—just like ocean currents would
carry a shell.
54 www.timespub.tc

MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

A final thought to those of you inspired to find your
own treasures on the beach. Please respect the ocean
and marine life and return your collection to the sea after
your walk (except sea glass, which can be brought home
without any negative effects on the environment). Shells
can provide homes to different marine creatures, so it’s
important to assure they have protection from predators.
Also, make sure that whatever shells you pick up aren’t
inhabited by anything, such as a roaming hermit crab. If
there is a stowaway, place the shell back where you found
it in order to let the creature continue its day. a
MELISSA HERES
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
MELISSA HERES
56 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI TKCA 1ZZ
tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
VANESSA A. FORBES-PATEMAN
Video recording is a crucial tool in recording irreplaceable memories. Here, former Museum Director Michael Pateman interviews TCI centenarian
Alton Higgs.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are like a beautifully woven tapestry of rich histories, cultures and traditions.
However, many factors—from climatic events such as hurricanes and floods, to the death of traditional
practitioners, to time itself—threaten the very existence of these irreplaceable, intangible aspects of the
heritage. Video recording is one of the crucial tools in the permanent recording of TCI’s unique culture
and history for generations to come.
In this edition of the Astrolabe, we discuss the process of using video to dive into heritage. In Telling
a Caicos Sloop Story, I and Vanessa Forbes-Pateman explain the People of the Islands Video Project,
including the launch of the trailer, and provide details into the methodology used. In Filming the East
Caicos Expedition Documentary, Matthew Matlack discusses his experience of filming on East Caicos, a
project discussed in articles in the Spring 2020 Astrolabe. Both projects will be submitted to the Turks
& Caicos Film Festival 2021.
On Candid Camera
Do you have an artistic, historic or cultural research question or article you would like to submit to
the Astrolabe? Contact us at info@tcmuseum.org. a
Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D., former Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 57

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This is one of James Dean’s boats in Blue Hills, Providenciales. James notes that his grandfather, father, uncles and brothers were all boat
builders, a skill that has been passed down to his sons and nephews.
People of the Islands
Telling “A Caicos Sloop Story.”
Story and Photos By Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D. and Vanessa A. Forbes-Pateman
In the Summer 2019 Astrolabe, we introduced “People of the Islands.” This project seeks to tell the story
of “Islanders” through a first-person narrative. The various interview topics include boat building, food/
cooking, bush medicine, island migration, cultural traditions, music, dance, story-telling and much more.
After many delays, including the COVID-19 pandemic and a new job, we are excited to launch the first
video documentary for People of the Islands, A Caicos Sloop Story.
This article is our narrative of the experience and reactions from filming the interviews on traditional
boat building in the Turks & Caicos Islands. We will switch the first-person narrative between Michael and
Vanessa, as our personal experience is vital to telling the story.
58 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
When Michael first arrived in the Turks & Caicos as
director of the national museum, he was amazed with
how similar but different the cultural traditions of the
Turks & Caicos Islands are compared to The Bahamas.
One of his main goals as director was to explore and
experience these cultural traditions so that the museum
can do a better job of presenting them to residents and
visitors to the Islands. One of these traditions is the building
of native Caicos sloops.
This journey started on February 16, 2019 at the
annual Valentine’s Cup, hosted by the Middle Caicos
Co-op on Bambarra Beach, Middle Caicos. The Valentine’s
Cup is a regatta using model Caicos sloops enjoyed by
locals and visitors of all ages.
While waiting for the event to begin, I walked around
to interview attendees. Fortunately, the first people I met
are both members of different TCI boat building families,
Wing Dean and Brodie Forbes. They both spoke with
fondness of childhood memories of building model boats
out of gum elemi trees with their friends. Historically,
children would gather logs from the gum elemi tree and
carve smaller versions of Caicos sloops, complete with
sails and rigging, and race them in sheltered waters.
That evening I called Vanessa excited about the
information I had gathered that day. I expressed shock
that we didn’t have something similar in The Bahamas.
However, Vanessa was surprised as she thought it was
a common childhood practice. While both of us are from
The Bahamas, we had different childhood experiences.
Similar to most Bahamian families, we can trace our familiar
history to various family islands, Michael (Cat Island
and Berry Islands) and Vanessa (Andros and Exuma).
However, multiple generations of Michael’s family were
born on New Providence whereas Vanessa’s parents were
both born on Andros.This is similar in that many children
who grow up in Providenciales do not have the same cultural
experiences as those from the other islands.
Vanessa recounts stories similar to Wing and Brodie’s.
She recalls, “The most exciting part of getting my own
model boat was choosing the tree it would be sculpted
from. I excitedly watched and helped my uncle, knowing
upon completion the best part of the summer is the
model boat regatta and I always wanted to win—which
child doesn’t? Model boat regatta day was the highlight,
nobody slept the night before and you kept your eye on
your boat in case one of the cousins tried to sabotage
Top: Pastor “Gold” Williams sails his model sloop.
Above: “Wing” Dean (left) and Brodie Forbes speak with fondness of
childhood memories of building model boats.
you. We barely ate breakfast since we were so excited to
get down to the bay to race our boats. There’s nothing
quite like seeing the wind catch your sails and your boat
take off; you couldn’t hear much from all the excitement,
sound, colour, smell of the food and the sea. The buildup
to the regatta made summering on the family islands
the best part of getting sent there from the capital of
Nassau.”
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 59

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This historic photo shows the last sloop built by Hedley Forbes. Note the sharp point of the bow.
Before continuing we decided a to get a historical
perspective on the Caicos sloops by interviewing David
Douglas from the Turks & Caicos Sailing Association.
David is involved in the Caicos Sloop Heritage Project,
whose mission is revitalizing the building of Caicos
sloops through “One Design,” a method that allows
the boats to be built and raced on a regular basis. He
described how historically, the local sloops were the
lifeblood of the Islands. Small boats were used to fish,
and catch conch and other seafood, while larger vessels
were used to trade those products mostly with Hispaniola
(Haiti and the Dominican Republic). They were also used
to carry cargo around the Islands (similar to trucks today),
as ambulances to move the sick, and as “water taxis” to
move passengers from island to island.
David provided us with background on the differences
between the Caicos and Bahamian sloops. The
Caicos sloops were more weatherly, designed to travel
further distances than their counterparts in The Bahamas.
Also, the Caicos sloops were created as work vessels,
especially on Grand Turk and Salt Cay, to move salt from
the islands to the larger vessels anchored offshore.
Next, we went back to Middle Caicos to interview
Hedley Forbes, the last of the senior boat builders living
on Middle Caicos. Hedley is Brodie’s father. We met
Hedley at his home in Bambarra. (Of note, Hedley was
involved in the Caribbean Research Foundation’s project
to document traditional boat building in 1984 on Grand
Turk. More details of this project can be found on the
Turks & Caicos National Museum’s website.)
Although considered one of the foremost boat buildings
in the Turks & Caicos, Hedley does not identify as a
boat builder, but as a carpenter. Both skills he learnt from
his grandfather.
Hedley described how the skills he developed building
boats informed his carpentry skills and vice versa.
For example, he learnt that a sharp-hulled boat moves
through the wind and waves of the ocean easier than one
with a wider hull. He took this design element and incorporated
it in the construction of his roof, which he states
has received very little damage through the various hurricanes
that have impacted the country.
Our next stop was Blue Hills, Providenciales to meet
with the Deans, a prominent boat building family of
Bermudian descent. First, we interviewed James Dean Sr.,
the patriarch of the family. James notes that his grandfather,
father, uncles and brothers were all boat builders, a
skill that has been passed down to his sons and nephews.
60 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
He fondly recalled memories of looking out to the bay in
Blue Hills and seeing the masts of numerous anchored
Caicos sloops. James also spoke about the regattas,
especially his competitions with Carl Ewing, Hilly Ewing,
Hedley Forbes and “Hearts” Capron. An interesting design
note—the Dean vessels have a wider hull when compared
with the designs of Hedley Forbes. Both builders
claim their technique is the best for speed and control
in the water. Over his career James built over 50 Caicos
sloops of various sizes, the last in 2009, which he named
Wildfire.
After the interview, we were shown some of the Dean
fleet that were destroyed in 2017 by Hurricanes Irma
and Maria. Wing Dean told us that he was building a new
sloop at his home and invited us to view his work. We
were excited by this opportunity because although many
sloops were lost during the 2017 hurricanes, we could
not find anyone building a new Caicos sloop.
A few months later, Michael visited Wing, to interview
him and observe him building his new sloop. The interview
focused on the differences between the traditional
(historic) and contemporary methods for building sloops.
Traditionally, boat builders would go into the forests and
harvest the locust tree to build the frames and Caicos
pine for the planking, masts and spars, with the entire
vessel being constructed with hand tools. Today, lumber
is purchased from hardware stores with metal masts,
and construction is almost exclusively with power tools.
Although the tools and techniques have evolved, modern
builders follow the traditional design techniques.
The final documentary will be submitted to the Turks
& Caicos Film Festival 2021. Follow peopleoftheislands.
com and our social media channels to be kept up to date
on the release of the trailer for a Caicos Sloop Story, full
interviews, and the release of the full documentary.
The 2017 hurricane season was devastating for traditional
Caicos sloops. Many were lost and the traditional
regatta grounds in South Caicos were destroyed. With
projects like this documentary, the One Design program
and the programs launched by the TCI Department of
Culture, we hope that this art can be revitalized. a
Thanks to Martin and Donna Seim, Director’s Welcome
Grant for Projects (purchased Camera gear) and Brian
Riggs, donation from Quiz Night to the museum.
Not every interview made it into this article. Others interviewed
include: Cardinal Arthur, Middle Caicos; Kendal
Butler, Bahamas; George Dean, Providenciales; “Pringle”
Dean, Providenciales; Elbert Higgs, North Caicos; JJ
Parker, Providenciales; Timothy “T-boy” Robinson, Middle
Caicos; Wilton Selver, Salt Cay; Curtis Simmons, Grand
Turk; Eustace and Alfred Williams, North Caicos; and
Pastor Goldstein Williams, Providenciales.
“Wing” Dean constructs a new sloop at his home.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 61

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Documentary photographer Matthew Matlack had to carry everything on the plane to ensure the equipment wasn’t delayed in transport. He
had to be extremely selective of what he’d take. These are the tools he used to do the job.
Selective Packing
The nitty-gritty of filming the East Caicos Expedition documentary
By Matthew Matlack ~ Photos by Matthew Matlack and John Galleymore
Filming the East Caicos Expedition documentary was a thrilling endeavor. I had not been camping in
years, I had just one experience under my belt filming in caves (which had a gift shop with snacks at the
entrance), and the film’s budget was modest to say the least. It sounded like a perfect adventure!
62 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
I blame John Galleymore for my involvement. I first
met John several years ago through our combined love of
Potcake dogs and our dedication to helping them. John
helped my family with the adoption of our first Potcake
which began our friendship. John’s history is worth an
article all on its own, but his exploration of the Turks &
Caicos Islands has led him on many adventures. (Follow
Beyond TCI on social media.)
I also met Turks & Caicos National Museum Director
Michael Pateman through John. My wife and I were on a
two-day excursion to Salt Cay by way of Grand Turk. Of
course, we stopped by the museum on Grand Turk to
explore and shoot some photos and videos, and Michael
was kind enough to show us around.
When the museum gave the go-ahead to explore East
Caicos, Michael knew John Galleymore, and other local
guide masters, Agile and Daniel LeVin, would be critical
to the success of the mission. John knew that I was a documentary
filmmaker and requested that I come along to
document the expedition. I was excited to be invited and
the logistics began to come together.
I think we had to postpone the trip a couple of times
John Galleymore and Mat Matlack are packed up and ready to launch
the East Caicos Expedition.
until October 2019 due to weather conditions. The last
thing we wanted was to be on an uninhabited island
during a tropical storm or worse, and Hurricane Dorian
ravaged the Bahamas in early September. We knew it
would be a very hot and mosquito laden time to be on
East Caicos, but we forged ahead with the adventure.
This is the audio and video gear used on the East Caicos expedition. In addition, a laptop computer was brought along on the journey.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 63

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Mat Matlack films former Museum Director Michael Pateman on the beach at East Caicos.
Gear
When necessary, I travel light. Very light. I was the sole
member of the film crew. This would be run-and-gun
documentary filmmaking. Since the film’s budget didn’t
allow for extra days of travel, I had to carry everything
on the plane to ensure the equipment wasn’t delayed in
transport. I had all the typical things like clothes and toiletries
with me, but also cameras, tripods, microphones,
drones, etc. So, I had to be extremely selective of what I’d
bring. Here is the list of equipment I chose.
Sony A7iii with Tamron 28-74mm Lens
This was my primary camera. It takes great photos and
great video. There are cameras that do better photos and
ones that capture better video, but this Sony does a fantastic
job at both. The lens is a great all-around zoom that
has a 2.8 f-stop allowing it to capture decent images in
low light conditions like inside a cave.
Canon G7Xii
This is a small point and shoot camera. It’s perfect for
vlogging and I keep it on my belt for quick access like a
gunslinger with his holster. Throw this camera into automode
and it’s hard to miss the shot. This is critical while
on a documentary, especially when the travelling is part
of the experience you are documenting.
GoPro Session
This is an even smaller camera. It’s a little 1.5-inch cube. I
had to make a very hard decision to leave my underwater
housing for the Canon camera at home. There just wasn’t
room in the carry-on bags. I thought, “I’m going to one of
the most beautiful ocean locations in the world and I’m
not going to take my underwater camera housing. What?”
But, the GoPro Session was going to have to suffice for
any underwater filming. It does a decent job, and I knew
99% of our time would be on land.
Energen Dronemax
This is the unit that took up the space of my underwater
housing. We’d be on East Caicos without any power for
three days. I have several batteries for the cameras, but
not for three days of filming, especially flying a drone.
It’s heavy and it’s bulky, but it would allow me to charge
64 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
all my batteries at least once and perhaps a couple times
during the trip. It proved most helpful!
DJI Mavic Pro
This is the drone I took. It wasn’t my best drone, but it
was my smallest drone. I knew that a long, hard hike
would probably be part of the expedition. I didn’t want
to carry a large, heavy drone for miles across treacherous
terrain, not to mention space in the travel bags.
Microphones
One Rode VideoMic Pro and two Tascam DR-10L lapel
mic/recorders made up my audio capture equipment. I
feel that audio is the most important part of any video,
so ensuring we had decent audio capture was essential—
while keeping things simple. This proved to be difficult
regardless of the equipment. Usually, you’d have an
audio person focusing on just the audio. But again, I was
a one-man crew doing run-and-gun shooting. You have
to keep it simple.
I had some issues with the DJI Mavic Pro drone, with
it operating a bit sporadically and changing how it was
capturing video randomly. I thought I was going to lose
control of the drone a couple times when it was being
unresponsive. Some of the footage was very hard to
recover with strong color changes being applied in-camera
to the video. But, the aerial footage ended up adding
some majestic imagery to the documentary.
The GoPro was a bit disappointing. Most of my underwater
filming with this camera had been in open water
Accessories
There were many other accessories needed too. A Lume
Cube light, a small travel tripod, memory cards, extra batteries,
portable hard drives, a stabilization gimbal, plus
a MacBook Pro laptop and all the charging cables needed
for the cameras and computer.
Travel
Once I had my bags packed to the max, I was ready
for the expedition to begin. My travel from the U.S. to
Providenciales was fairly uneventful. John and I packed up
the camping gear after I landed, along with all the camera
equipment, and we were ready for an early morning
start to the adventure. We took a car to the ferry dock,
the ferry to North Caicos, a rental car to Middle Caicos,
then two flats boats to get us and the gear to East Caicos.
We’d also use the boats to get from basecamp to various
places on the island to begin hiking to the caves and
other points of interest.
Mat Matlack enjoys fresh fish caught by boat captain, Leif Erickson,
and vegetables prepared by guidemaster, Daniel LeVin
with lots of sunlight coming through. The darkness of
the cave proved a bit too much for this small camera to
handle and I really missed my underwater housing for the
Canon. But, having the Energen battery bank in lieu of the
housing due to the lack of space in the luggage was the
right choice.
Filming
I was very happy with my choice of equipment. The
Sony A7iii performed fantastically. It’s low-light capability
worked great in the caves for both photos and video
capture. The Canon G7Xii kept its spot as the most convenient
camera I own and was there to capture many critical
moments of the story.
Releasing the documentary
We had plans to submit the film to the Turks & Caicos
International Film Festival in 2020. But, due to the pandemic,
it was postponed until 2021. With our eyes set on
several festivals in the coming months, the film will be
released as those come to fruition. Keep up to date with
the release of the film at EastCaicosExpedition.com. a
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 65

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Museum Matters
Volunteers needed in Providenciales
The Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation is
seeking the help of volunteers to assist with the running
of the existing Providenciales museum facility in
The Village at Grace Bay.
Duties will include conducting short tours and assisting
with gift shop sales. We hope to assemble a team
of three to four persons so a roster can be established.
Full training will be given. We would like to be able to
open three or four days a week for several hours to give
both tourists and locals the ability to visit and enjoy the
museum on Providenciales.
The National Museum Foundation is also establishing
a committee on Providenciales to assist with raising
funds for the new museum building designed by globally
renowned architect Ron Shaw. The committee will
consist of representatives from the TCI Government,
Turks & Caicos Hotel & Tourism Association (TCHTA),
two existing board members and a number of volunteers
from the wider community. The objectives are to
create public awareness for the new national museum
building and to work on various fund-raising initiatives
to cover the construction cost.
Interested persons should contact National Museum
Manager Lisa Talbot at info@tcmuseum.org or (649)
247-2160 or Seamus Day at seamus.day@tcmuseum.
org or (649) 431-2849 or visit the national museum’s
website: www.tcmuseum.org a
Lucayan educational materials
The museum recently received educational materials
donated by the project Stone Interchanges Within
the Bahama Archipelago (SIBA). This is a University of
Oxford project supported by the UK’s Arts & Humanities
Research Council. The Lucayans were the indigenous
people of the Turks & Caicos and the Bahamas. The
illustrations and content are based on archaeological
investigations in the region and selected artifacts in
museum collections from the: National Museum of The
Bahamas; Turks & Caicos National Museum; National
Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian; National
Museum of the American Indian, Smithsonian and
Peabody Museum of Natural History.
The project resulted in the creation of beautiful
illustrations by artist Merald Clark that reflect the lifeways
and material culture of the Lucayans. The Turks
& Caicos National Museum received, at no cost, 45
sets of posters and teacher’s guides along with 180
image booklets. The guides provide for in-depth teaching
with visual interpretation that will assist teachers in
providing children with a better appreciation of original
inhabitants and their lifestyle. Once schools return
to in-classroom learning we will be working with the
education department to distribute these to the various
schools.
PowerPoint presentations have also been created
so that schools can take advantage of this information
now. As well, educational presentations can be
offered by the museum to other interested individuals
or groups.
To learn more about this project visit the SIBA website
https://siba.web.ox.ac.uk/home or contact the
museum at info@tcmuseum.org. a
Refurbishment of the bird drive
The Turks & Caicos Islands—which include coral reefs,
tidal flats, mangroves and marshlands—provide excellent
environments for wildlife. The salinas and ponds on
Grand Turk have been called “internationally important
for birds” by the UK Overseas Territories Conservation
Forum (UKOTCF). The ponds offer the unique ability to
get close to the birds without directly disturbing them.
Those of us who live here are spoiled by seeing the
beautiful flamingos, comical pelicans and many other
species up close on a regular basis.
The Bird Walking and Driving Tours on Grand Turk
were originally developed in 2011 by former Turks &
Caicos National Museum Director Pat Saxton in part-
66 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
nership with the UKOTCF. The development of the
tour was initially made possible by a grant from the
Carnival/TCInvest/TCIG Infrastructure Fund. Signs and
guides were developed as part of the project. Years
of island weather, including several hurricanes, took a
toll on the signs and some of the poles installed. The
TCNM was able to obtain a grant from the governor’s
office to update the signs and poles for the walking
and driving tours.
Over the last few weeks, new informative signs have
been added to the start of each tour and all the numbered
signs for each stop are being replaced. The new
signs have revitalized the tour. There are two different
tours available—a walking tour and a driving tour with
signs to indicate the stops for each. The signs together
with the printed guides lead you to the best viewing
places. A map and description of what you can expect
to see at each stop are included in the guides.
We hope that the new signs will encourage appreciation
for the bird life and our ability to witness it so
easily. Guides for both the driving and walking tour are
available for sale in the museum gift shop on Grand
Turk. We also sell five guidebooks with information
about the wildlife and heritage of each of TCI’s main
islands at both of our locations. a
Museum visits
The museum on Grand Turk can be visited by appointment.
We have had success during the pandemic with
opening by request. This practice will continue until
normal operating hours can return. The Providenciales
location, which includes the Caicos Heritage House,
should be reopening this Spring. Please check our website
or contact us for updates on the reopening. Email
info@tcmuseum.org or call (649) 247-2160 to schedule
your visit or for updated information.
TCNMF is a registered not for profit organization
aimed at recording, interpreting, preserving,and celebrating
the history of the Turks & Caicos Islands and
its people. The museum on Grand Turk is housed in
the historic Guinep House, an iconic structure in the
nation’s capital. The new, expanded Providenciales
museum building will be adjacent to the existing
museum facility and heritage house in The Village,
Grace Bay. a
Story & Photos By Lisa Talbot
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 67

esort report
The new Bottle Creek Lodge, under the ownership of Jim and Melanie Lee-Brown, overlooks Bottle Creek in the Readymoney area of North
Caicos.
A Phoenix on North Caicos
Bottle Creek Lodge opens again.
By Jody Rathgeb~ Images Courtesy Bottle Creek Lodge
Here’s a new adage for the Islands: You can’t keep a good tourist site down. Proof? Bottle Creek Lodge
on North Caicos, which has opened to guests for the third time in nearly 30 years.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 69

The new Bottle Creek Lodge,
under the ownership of Jim Brown
and Melanie Lee-Brown, overlooks
Bottle Creek in the Readymoney
area of North Caicos. The
site offers two open-concept
cabanas—named Seaside and
Treehouse—each of 225 square
feet, with furnished kitchenette,
dining space, bathroom and private
screened porch. While there
is no air conditioning—ceiling
fans, floor fans and the breeze off
the creek provide plenty of comfort.
Another accommodation,
the two-room, 450-square-foot
Elizabeth’s Cabana, is currently
undergoing renovation.
The Bottle Creek Lodge buildings
descend from the main road
to the edge of the creek along
paths lined with trees and plants
that explain North Caicos’ reputation as the Garden
Island. Planted and enhanced by previous owners, they
include aloes, sea grape, papaya, banana, sour orange,
limes, coconut and sugar apple: a cornucopia of vegetation.
At the base of the property, a dock provides access
to Bottle Creek. Kayaks, snorkeling gear and bicycles are
available for guests.
Seaside was home to the Browns while they renovated and improved the Bottle Creek Lodge
property.
Discovery and deliberation
As Jim Brown tells the story, “In October 2006 we were
looking for a plot of land to buy here on North Caicos,
a place to eventually build our retirement home.” They
enjoyed a stay at Bottle Creek Lodge, then owned by
Sandy and Jay Johnson. “Two years later was the one-two
punch of hurricanes Hanna and Ike. Bottle Creek Lodge
At the base of the Bottle Creek Lodge property, a dock provides access to Bottle Creek. Kayaks are available for guests.
70 www.timespub.tc

sustained significant damage from
the storms and never reopened. Jay
occasionally came back and worked
on liquidating some assets […] but
otherwise the place was abandoned
and hurricane damage was left unrepaired.
Over the years we would drive
past when we were on visits to North
Caicos, and reminisce about our
great stay there.”
On one of those trips, in 2015,
Jim and Melanie saw a “For Sale” sign
on the gate. Jim continues, “Melanie
and I are biology professors in North
Carolina, and we were both feeling
increasingly burned-out and ready
for a change. We agreed that we were
at a ‘fork in the road’ in our careers;
we could either change now or run
out our careers until full retirement.
So when we saw the ‘For Sale’ sign, Treehouse is one of two open-concept cabanas for guests to stay at Bottle Creek Lodge.
we looked at each other and thought
the same thing.”
After much thought and discussion, the Browns completed
a purchase in the summer of 2016 and began in good enough shape for us to live in while we worked
Creek Lodge, one of the cabanas (we call it Seaside) was
renovations. There was much to be done, and much history
to both honor and build on.
call it Treehouse) was in much greater need of repair,
on it and the other buildings. The other small cabana (we
both inside and out. The roof of the larger two-room
Hilton-Gibbs-Johnson
cabana (we call it Elizabeth’s Cabana) had a flat roof
The main stone-and-frame structure on the property which also served as the deck for the main house. It was
was built as a private home by Englishman Fred Hilton. in very poor condition. The roof had been leaking for
When Howard Gibbs bought it in 1997, some time after eight years, the siding was rotten, and there was standing
water inside. The main house also had a leaky roof on
Hilton’s death, he focused on turning the property into
an eco-lodge. He expanded the main house (adding a the incorporated spaces of the front and back porches,
restaurant), built the cottages and a workshop, and but was generally sound. The workshop was also in good
worked extensively in the gardens. His vision was to keep shape, except that water blown in under the open eaves
the lodge ecologically sustainable and small; Gibbs even had soaked all the remaining fixtures, tools and hardware,
converting them to rust. Everything that had been
installed composting toilets in the cottages, hoping to
draw tourists who wanted to live lightly while exploring at the waterline, including the boathouse and elaborate
another land and culture.
dock and boardwalk, had been destroyed by the hurricanes.”
When the Johnsons purchased the place in the early
2000s, the focus shifted toward fishing. Sandy and Jay The Browns set to work in the summer of 2016, doing
built a boathouse, dock and boardwalk and ran fishing what they could themselves, but hiring Kenny Higgs and
charters out of the property while maintaining it as a Kenneth Hall for most of the renovations: replacing the
guest lodge and restaurant. The hurricanes, however, put roof, wiring and plumbing; re-doing interior walls; repairing
cisterns; and doing renovations to the kitchen and
an end to their efforts.
According to Brown, “After Hanna and Ike in 2008, the bathroom. Seaside and Treehouse renovations have been
place was empty and continued to succumb to weather completed, and there is a new, smaller dock. Work is still
and damage for eight years. When we bought Bottle under way on the larger cabana, workshop and gardens.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 71

1 (649) 342-3180
North Caicos Island, TCI
BottleCreekLodge.com
BottleCreekLodge@gmail.com
pandemic. Bottle Creek Lodge opened again for the 2021
season, with the pandemic keeping rates at lower levels.
The challenges of hurricanes and a virus were joined
by those of meeting requirements for doing businesses
in the Turks & Caicos, compounded by the timing of trying
to open during a pandemic. The Browns credit many
people in both the US and TCI for help in hurdling those
hoops, including Karen Preikschat, “Poacher” Missick,
Tekarrah Williams, Gordon Kerr, Sarah Knight, Eve and
Ernie Quant and Janet and Ron Holmes. Preikschat has
even become their manager as they wait for permanent
resident certificates.
Recognising that Bottle Creek Lodge belongs as much
to the island as to them, the Browns decided to keep
the name instead of trying to come up with a new one.
Melanie notes, “[W]e decided that [the] history and identity
of Bottle Creek Lodge were too important. People
are always interested in the story of the evolution of this
property from humble abode to a thriving business on a
beautiful ocean creek. We see bits of everyone who lived
and worked there, and keeping those memories alive was
important to us. The name also invokes feelings of tranquility,
adventure and comfort. We hope every guest feels
all of these at some point during their visit with us.”
Open/closed/open
Rising Phoenix
When Seaside and Treehouse were ready for occupancy, Renovations at Bottle Creek Lodge will continue, and
the Browns set a soft opening of the lodge for February guest services will expand. Jim says they hope to begin
2020. A month later, it was closed due to the COVID-19 serving breakfast to guests in 2022, and they are working
on those approvals as
well as prepping Elizabeth’s
Suite. As this tourist phoenix
rises again, the Browns
say they want to involve as
much of North Caicos as they
can in the new Bottle Creek
Lodge. “Our intention is to
focus on creating a space that
is relaxing and friendly,” he
says. “We want to involve as
many Islander businesses as
possible for non-self-guided
activities that guests may
want. We want to be a hub .
. . give people a place to stay,
and then provide them access
to local folks who already provide
these services and can
Bottle Creek Lodge is now a thriving business on a beautiful ocean creek.
benefit from the business.” a
72 www.timespub.tc

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, The
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 43,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk,
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports
on all of the islands except East Caicos.
TCI Assured is a quality assurance pre-travel program
and portal, to assist visitors and returning residents when
the country reopened its borders on July 22, 2020. The
TCI is now requiring a negative COVID-19 PCR test result
from a test taken within five days of travel. Children under
the age of 10 are not required to be tested. Additionally,
travelers must have medical/travel insurance that covers
medevac (insurance companies providing the prerequisite
insurance will be available on the portal), a completed
health screening questionnaire, and certification that they
have read and agreed to the privacy policy document.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 73

These requirements must be completed and uploaded
to the TCI Assured portal, which is available on the TCI
Tourist Board website (www.turksandcaicostourism.
com), in advance of their arrival.
Once travelers register on the TCI Assured portal and
complete the requirements as outlined, a travel authorization
notification will be given. The TCI Assured travel
authorization should be presented at the time of check-in
to the appropriate airline; airlines will not be able to
board passengers without this authorization.
Language
English.
Time zone
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time
observed.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.
dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and
keep life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including
those charged with compressed air without prior
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs and pornography are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of
merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of
government revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and
drive! Taxis and community cabs are abundant throughout
the Islands and many resorts offer shuttle service
between popular visitor areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and
bicycle rentals are also available.
74 www.timespub.tc

Telecommunications
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,
including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts
and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with
a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can
arrange international roaming.
Electricity
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ,
and either single phase or three phase at one of three
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid
to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and
provides options for customers to participate in two solar
energy programs.
Departure tax
US $60. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The
Islands are known for their varied and colorful stamp
issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally
transmitted television stations, along with local news
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Food for Thought provides free daily
breakfast to government school students.
A donation of $300 will provide breakfast
to one child for a whole school year.
To donate or learn more please
email info@foodforthoughttci.com
or visit foodforthoughttci.com
Food for Thought Foundation Inc. (NP #102)
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy, and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Nigel John Dakin. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government.
Hon. Charles Washington Misick is the country’s new premier,
leading a majority Progressive National Party (PNP)
House of Assembly.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 75

The legal system is based upon English Common
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt.
Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and
fishing generate the most private sector income. The
Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically
all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services
such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there
are many faiths represented in the Islands including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist,
Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test
results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain
clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal
Health Services.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The
76 www.timespub.tc

National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.
bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton
dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves
and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours” by
the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling
services through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been
banned country-wide as of May 1, 2019.
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba
diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and
beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and
excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.
Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship
course on Providenciales—are also popular.
subscription form
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS
One year subscription
$28 U.S. addresses/$32 non-U.S. addresses
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33
national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas of
historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides
to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of major
historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on
Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A
scheduled ferry and a selection of tour operators make it
easy to take day trips to the outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is
a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods,
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a
VISIT WWW.TIMESPUB.TC TO VIEW CURRENT ISSUE ON-LINE!
Name____________________________________________________________________
Date ____________________
Address__________________________________________________________________
City _____________________________________________________________________
State/Province____________________________________________________________
Country/Postal Code_____________________________________________________
E-mail address (not required)_____________________________________________
r New Subscription r Renewal
r U.S. Cheque/M.O. enclosed
Mail with payment to:
Times Publications Ltd., c/o Kathy Borsuk,
247 Holmes Ave., Clarendon Hills, IL 60514
Please allow 30 to 60 days for delivery of first issue.
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 77

where to stay
78 www.timespub.tc

where to stay
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 79

dining
80 www.timespub.tc

dining
Times of the Islands Spring 2021 81

classified ads
REJOUVENANCE
Hand Crafted
Skincare
Spring -Summer
SPECIALS
rejouvenancespa.com
+ 1 - 6 4 9 - 4 3 2 - 7 5 4 6
TC Safari_Layout 1 8/9/18 3:33 PM Page 1
Community Fellowship Centre
A Life-Changing Experience
Sunday Divine Worship 9 AM
Visitors Welcome!
Tel: 649.941.3484 • Web: cfctci.com
Vacation Villa Rentals
Joanne Phillips, Turks & Caicos Safari
www.tcsafari.com
Call: 1-904-491-1415
Email: tcsafari@tcsafari.com
Ocean Breeze_Layout 1 4/8/19 10:34 AM Page
D&Bswift_Layout
1
1 5/8/18 7:24 AM Page 1
Our cleaning solutions are made
from biodegradable materials that
aren't harmful to the environment.
Find our products throughout the
Turks & Caicos Islands.
FOR ALL YOUR
RELIABLE AND
AFFORDABLE
RENTAL NEEDS
Call 244-2526
or 241-5584
649-941-8438 and 649-241-4968
SCOOTER HOUSEHOLD AND BOBS_Layout COMMERCIAL CLEANING 1 8/8/18 PRODUCTS 10:57 AM Page GBC2017_Layout 1 2/16/17 9:10 AM Page 1
autorental@dnbautoparts.com
www.oceanbreezetci.com
We’re here to
make your holiday
the island way...
DEPENDABLE VEHICLE HIRE
SERVICE OFFERED:
Provo & North-Middle Caicos
Office: 946-4684
Amos: 441-2667 (after hours)
Yan: 247-6755 (after hours)
Bob: 231-0262 (after hours)
scooterbobs@gmail.com
www.scooterbobstci.com
Grace Bay Road across from Regent Street
Fun Friendly People
Appreciating Your Business!
941-8500
www.gracebaycarrentals.com
82 www.timespub.tc

SUSTAINABLE
ENERGY
You Can
Count On
R-NETS: A roadmap for
TCI’s energy future
Solar integration
to the FortisTCI grid
We’re building partnerships to deliver a more sustainable
energy future for the Turks and Caicos Islands.
With the Resilient National Energy Transition
Strategy (R-NETS) serving as a roadmap, and with
new and ongoing investments in solar energy
generation, solar plus battery pilot project, and
an electric vehicle and charging station project,
FortisTCI is working every day to deliver resilient,
cost-effective and environmentally sustainable
energy, to fuel growth and development.
Solar + battery storage
pilot project
Electric vehicle
pilot project
www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313 |

For Those Who Seek An
Exceptional Vacation Home & Lifestyle
We Are Available To Help You
Navigate The Real Estate Process
THE FINEST COLLECTION
Condominium | Home & Villa | Land | New Development
649.946.4474 | info@tcsothebysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com
Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club and The Palms
Each franchise is Independently Owned and Operated.