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The Changing Pace of Workwear Pt 2

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THE CHANGING PACE<br />

OF WORKWEAR<br />

PART 2 - Future Technologies & Sustainability<br />

PART 2 explores the<br />

different technologies<br />

& sustainable<br />

innovations <strong>of</strong><br />

the future<br />

...coming soon PART 3<br />

will address how<br />

COVID-19 has effected<br />

the retail landscape &<br />

the shifting priorities in<br />

the workplace<br />

EUROFIBER


WGSN<br />

Coronaviru<br />

<strong>The</strong> Impact<br />

Our Planet<br />

Throughout this repor<br />

global drivers and key<br />

action for future succe<br />

sustainability and re<br />

for the climate is no lo<br />

critical consideration f<br />

consumers are prior<br />

and conscious corpor<br />

than ever...<br />

‘Futurewear’:<br />

<strong>The</strong> Big Ideas<br />

In 2020/21we have been through numerous global<br />

shutdowns, but by 2023 companies and consumers<br />

will be opening up to new strategies, innovations and<br />

priorities. In an era <strong>of</strong> uncertainty, it’s all about the<br />

4 C’s: Connection, Conservation, Communication<br />

and Community. Brands will find new and smart<br />

ways <strong>of</strong> connecting, communicating and building<br />

communities with consumers, then conserving<br />

resources will be imperative. In Part 2 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong><br />

<strong>Changing</strong> <strong>Pace</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Workwear</strong>, we will discuss how<br />

companies are already starting to do this with new<br />

technologies and sustainable innovations.<br />

2


...Despite a turbulence from COVID-19,<br />

sustainability is still a focus and will be<br />

even more so, considering there is an<br />

awareness <strong>of</strong> the negative but also the<br />

positive effects on the environment<br />

due to the pandemic.<br />

We have seen a reduction in Green<br />

House Gas emissions in the EU compared<br />

to 2019, however these reductions could<br />

be short lived as strict lockdown<br />

restrictions are lifted, according to the<br />

European Environment Agency.<br />

Along with a reduction in air pollution,<br />

we have also seen a reduction <strong>of</strong> water<br />

pollution, noise pollution and ecological<br />

restoration; where wild animals moved<br />

into urban areas as people stayed<br />

indoors.<br />

s & Clothing:<br />

on<br />

PANGAIA<br />

However, there have also been<br />

negative environmental impacts; as<br />

discussed briefly in Part 1, the<br />

pandemic has led to a sudden surge in<br />

global demand for personal<br />

protective equipment (PPE), including<br />

masks, gloves, gowns and bottled hand<br />

sanitiser, etc. This has caused a sudden<br />

rise <strong>of</strong> hazardous waste which has<br />

become a significant challenge for the<br />

local waste management authorities.<br />

t we will discuss some <strong>of</strong> the<br />

strategies that businesses can<br />

ss. Firstly, let’s take a look at<br />

generation; adapting to care<br />

nger a strategy; it’s a<br />

or long-term growth because<br />

itising conscious consumption<br />

ate social responsibility more<br />

Additionally, there has been an increase<br />

in the amount <strong>of</strong> waste packaging, some<br />

<strong>of</strong> which can be recycled but a lot is<br />

single use plastic. This is the result <strong>of</strong> mass<br />

online shopping; the likes <strong>of</strong> fashion<br />

retailers Asos and Boohoo saw sales rise<br />

by 40 per cent in the last four months <strong>of</strong><br />

2020, also many restaurants and cafés<br />

have moved to <strong>of</strong>fering take aways<br />

using single use plastic containers.<br />

So how can we regenerate post<br />

pandemic?<br />

3


MARIE CLAIRE<br />

WGSN<br />

THE CONVERSATION<br />

Environment & Climate Action:<br />

“From Urgency to Emergency”<br />

iNEWS<br />

“<strong>The</strong> pandemic has upended the lives <strong>of</strong> billions and been disastrous for the already<br />

vulnerable, exposing the inequalities <strong>of</strong> the world, and the fragility <strong>of</strong> the system<br />

that the fashion industry operates in,” says Kerry Bannigan, founder <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Conscious Fashion Campaign (Drapers).<br />

Clothes are an everyday necessity and a form <strong>of</strong> self expression. But according to<br />

the UN, the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry globally. In the<br />

UK alone an estimated 350,000 tonnes <strong>of</strong> garments end up in landfill each year.<br />

4


VIVIENNE WESTWOOD<br />

NYC FASHION WEEK - NEW YORK TIMES<br />

From worsening seasons, severe droughts, increased wildfires and mass waste,<br />

scientific evidence shows that collectively we need to do more to tackle climate<br />

change. Companies/brands/corporations need to understand and implement<br />

sustainable solutions that will align with consumers’ values. To not take a<br />

sustainable stance is to be complicit, we need to invest now, or pay later. At<br />

Dimensions, we continually look at new innovations for sustainable solutions.<br />

ECOALF<br />

FASHIONISTA.COM<br />

5


6<br />

REPURPOSE<br />

ECOTEXTILE.COM<br />

One key future strategy is to work towards a closed loop system. Many<br />

brands are already working towards this; H&M revealed a new in-store<br />

garment-garment knitwear recycling system, Looop, in Stockholm. <strong>The</strong><br />

machine transforms old garments into new pieces in an 8 step process<br />

from cleaning and shredding to spinning yarn and knitting (without<br />

water and toxic chemicals). Fast Fashion Giant Inditex aims to send<br />

nothing to landfill by 2023 from all it’s divisions and Nestlé is investing<br />

$30m in the Closed Loop Leadership Fund.<br />

REINVENT, RESALE<br />

“LOOOP” H&M<br />

Recycled Polyester (rPET) degrades<br />

each time it is heated to repurpose so<br />

it can’t be used infinitely. Water, dye,<br />

energy inputs and chemical releases<br />

also need to be monitored as this can still<br />

be polluting. It is arising garment togarment<br />

recycling that is advantageous<br />

and will <strong>of</strong>fer more potential for<br />

circularity in the future.<br />

CLOSED LOOP<br />

WGSN<br />

“LOOOP” H&M<br />

H&M


CIRCULOSE® is new natural material that<br />

helps close the loop, made out <strong>of</strong><br />

Cotton textile waste.<br />

CIRCULOSE®<br />

FINISTERRE<br />

Out <strong>of</strong> 53 millions tonnes <strong>of</strong> garments<br />

produced each year, 73% are sent to<br />

landfill or are incinerated and <strong>of</strong> all new<br />

clothing made, less than 1% <strong>of</strong> material<br />

used comes from recycled sources. (Ellen<br />

MacArthur Foundation).<br />

#closetheloop the<br />

3 R’s: Repurpose,<br />

Reinvent, Resale<br />

WGSN<br />

Martin Stuchtey, from SystemIQ<br />

forecasts that if we undermanage and<br />

underreact to threats that are depleting<br />

natural capital and the planet’s<br />

ability to regenerate itself, it will hinder<br />

future economic success. What works<br />

for us now, will not work for an<br />

expanding population. <strong>The</strong> take-makewaste<br />

linear economy needs to change<br />

to become circular; “by designing out<br />

waste and pollution, keeping<br />

products and materials in use, and<br />

regenerating natural systems we can<br />

reinvent everything.”<br />

ELLEN MACARTHER FOUNDATION<br />

EVERLANE<br />

7


PANGAIA - FLWRDWN<br />

PANGAIA - FLWRDWN<br />

PATAGONIA - ACTION WORKS<br />

PATAGONIA - WORN WEAR<br />

Repurpose,<br />

Reinvent, Resale:<br />

Key Brand Initiatives<br />

Sustainability-conscious consumers will<br />

prevail and behaviours are already<br />

changing, this is beginning to challenge<br />

traditional retail and business models; buy<br />

back or subscription schemes are making<br />

recycling easier and enabling stress free<br />

circular shopping. Here is an example <strong>of</strong><br />

what three key brands are doing:<br />

MUD JEANS<br />

8


PATAGONIA ACTION WORKS:<br />

Links people to the planet, connecting<br />

individuals with environmental groups to<br />

take action on the most pressing global issues.<br />

WORN WEAR:<br />

Up-cycled Patagonia clothing is sold online,<br />

customers can exchange old Patagonia clothes<br />

for vouchers. Repairs are also made on the<br />

road.<br />

1% FOR THE PLANET:<br />

An alliance <strong>of</strong> businesses who pledge 1% <strong>of</strong><br />

annual sales for the preservation and<br />

restoration <strong>of</strong> the natural environment.<br />

More than $270 million has been raised.<br />

Patagonia also use Regenerative Organic<br />

Cotton & 68% <strong>of</strong> their product is made<br />

from recycled materials!<br />

<strong>The</strong>y aim to be<br />

carbon neutral<br />

by 2025!<br />

PATAGONIA - 1% FOR THE PLANET<br />

CREATING A WORLD WITHOUT WASTE:<br />

MUD Jeans are made with up to 40%<br />

recycled cotton and organic cotton. Per jean,<br />

they use 92% less water than usual and 70%<br />

less CO2. Users can choose to buy or lease<br />

for €9,95 per month (inc free repairs). <strong>The</strong><br />

jeans can then be swapped for a new pair.<br />

When buying or leasing, the jeans can be<br />

returned for a voucher.<br />

FAIR FACTORIES & POSITIVE ACTIVISM:<br />

<strong>The</strong>y work with selected manufacturers that<br />

ensure the wellbeing and fair pay <strong>of</strong> staff.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y have a mission to educate and aim to<br />

produce jeans from 100% recycled cotton.<br />

MUD JEANS CIRCULAR MODEL<br />

A MATERIALS SCIENCE COMPANY EST. 2018:<br />

<strong>The</strong>y design product and develop materials<br />

such as C-FIBER (100% biodegradable and<br />

water saving, made from eucalyptus pulp<br />

and seaweed powder), FLWRDWN<br />

(insulation developed from sustainably sourced<br />

wildflowers and maize biopolymer) grape<br />

leather, recycled cotton and recycled wool.<br />

IMPACT INITIATIVES:<br />

PANGAIA have raised money for their Bee<br />

<strong>The</strong> Change Fund and planted over 400,000<br />

trees for their Tomorrow Tree Fund, they’ve<br />

also raised and donated over $100k to<br />

humanitarian organisations and charities.<br />

9<br />

PANGAIA


Push For<br />

Progress:<br />

ELLEN MACARTHER FOUNDATION<br />

Future Driver:<br />

Regenerative<br />

Change<br />

What is Regenerative<br />

Agriculture? It’s a farming<br />

practice that actively improves<br />

environmental conditions such as<br />

restoring soil quality and the<br />

balance <strong>of</strong> biodiversity, it absorbs<br />

carbon and minimises impact.<br />

Businesses that push for progress<br />

in regenerative agriculture will<br />

be in a strong position for the near<br />

future. Products that are designed<br />

to do less harm - starting from the<br />

soil in which the cotton seed is<br />

planted, for example, will stand<br />

out to consumers.<br />

WRANGLER<br />

PATAGONIA<br />

ELLEN MACARTHER FOUNDATION<br />

Wrangler’s Science & Conservation Program is building a regenerative fibre supply<br />

chain. <strong>The</strong> brand aims to source 100% <strong>of</strong> its cotton from farms that use its land stewardship<br />

practices by 2025. In 2017, Patagonia helped establish the Regenerative Organic<br />

Certification.<br />

10


REGENERATIVE FASHION<br />

TIMBERLAND<br />

Timberland has<br />

partnered with the<br />

non-pr<strong>of</strong>it Savory<br />

Institute, which<br />

focuses on largescale<br />

regeneration<br />

<strong>of</strong> global grasslands,<br />

as part <strong>of</strong> its<br />

strategy towards<br />

building a netpositive<br />

leather<br />

supply chain. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

aim to be net<br />

positive by 2030<br />

and plant 50 million<br />

trees by 2025.<br />

TIMBERLAND<br />

TIMBERLAND<br />

Along with upholding the rights <strong>of</strong> their factory<br />

workers, Timberland truly believe a “Greener<br />

future is a better future” they use rubber,<br />

leather, wool and sugar cane from farms using<br />

responsible land management practices.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y also use organic cotton, ReBOTL recycled<br />

fabric, particularly for shoe linings and the brand<br />

aims to be a zero waste company.<br />

Timberland‘s Second Chance Scheme partnered<br />

with Soles4Souls, enables customers to return the<br />

shoes instore which are then distributed to people<br />

in need, in exchange for a reward.<br />

TIMBERLAND<br />

TIMBERLAND<br />

11


INCREDIBLE COTTON<br />

Lab Grown<br />

Cotton:<br />

INCREDIBLE COTTON<br />

New Fabric<br />

Technology:<br />

Galy make their Incredible Cotton<br />

from cells in a lab, based in the US<br />

and Brazil they have developed “real<br />

cotton, but better”. <strong>The</strong> company won<br />

the annual Global Change Award<br />

from the H&M Foundation in 2020.<br />

<strong>The</strong> biotech company aims to<br />

produce “hundreds <strong>of</strong> plant-based<br />

and bioproducts, one stem cell at a<br />

time”.<br />

Galy’s plan is to produce yarn to sell<br />

to clothing brands, at the moment this<br />

is still in R&D phase. Incredible<br />

Cotton uses 84% less water than<br />

conventional cotton and uses zero<br />

pesticides and insecticides. Lab grown<br />

cotton grows 10 x faster, using only<br />

20% <strong>of</strong> the resources and apparently<br />

costs about the same as regular cotton.<br />

INCREDIBLE COTTON<br />

INCREDIBLE COTTON<br />

12


BIO- BASED<br />

MATERIALS<br />

BOLT THREADS - MYLO<br />

Mushrooms are what we are most<br />

familiar with, but most <strong>of</strong> their<br />

bodies are made up <strong>of</strong> a mass<br />

<strong>of</strong> thin threads called Mycelium,<br />

which act as underground<br />

networks; linking the roots <strong>of</strong><br />

different plants providing nutrients<br />

and breaking down organic<br />

matter. Bolt Threads have<br />

developed Mylo, an engineered<br />

Mycelium ‘leather’. <strong>The</strong> bio-tech<br />

start up have a consortium <strong>of</strong><br />

backers including Adidas,<br />

Lululemon and Stella McCartney.<br />

FUTURE BIO-TECH FASHION<br />

BOLT THREADS - MYLO<br />

ADIDAS & LULULEMON<br />

ARE RELEASING MYLO<br />

PRODUCTS IN 2021<br />

ADIDAS<br />

BOLT THREADS - MYLO<br />

BOLT THREADS - MYLO<br />

Partnering with brands like<br />

Adidas and Lululemon is a<br />

major step toward biomaterials<br />

becoming a genuine<br />

option for mass production.<br />

Firstly, the Mycelium is grown<br />

on beds <strong>of</strong> sawdust and other<br />

organic material. Thick sheets<br />

<strong>of</strong> the woven mycelium are<br />

then processed, tanned, dyed<br />

and embossed, (using the<br />

lowest environmental impact)<br />

and using 50% less water than<br />

needed for cotton production.<br />

“In the right conditions,<br />

mycelium has the potential<br />

to biodegrade”. (New York<br />

Times)<br />

13


COVALENT / AIRCARBON<br />

COVALENT / AIRCARBON<br />

14


CARBON FASHION<br />

New fashion brand Covalent, created to<br />

showcase the innovative biomaterial called<br />

AirCarbon (made by biotech firm Newlight<br />

Technologies) is regenerative, carbonnegative<br />

fashion, starting with eyewear and<br />

leather replacements.<br />

After over 10 years <strong>of</strong> research, AirCarbon<br />

was created by extracting microorganisms<br />

from the ocean, feeding them methane and<br />

carbon dioxide in large saltwater tanks and<br />

using the natural material inside <strong>of</strong> their cells<br />

called PHB. This is then turned into a bio<br />

material which can be melted and formed into<br />

PATAGONIA - 1% FOR THE PLANET<br />

MUD JEANS CIRCULAR MODEL<br />

product, much like plastic. Apart from it’s<br />

naturally bio-degradable and uses up GHGs!<br />

PHB is made naturally in almost all known life<br />

on Earth, from microorganisms and trees to the<br />

human body.<strong>The</strong> production <strong>of</strong> AirCarbon is<br />

a carbon-negative process as renewable<br />

power is used. Covalent also apply the world’s<br />

first IBM blockchain-based carbon tracking<br />

technology to track every step <strong>of</strong> the<br />

fabrication process for each product,<br />

including its independently verified carbon<br />

footprint. For carbon to remain “safely and<br />

stylishly sequestered” products can be<br />

returned to be remade. This is game changing<br />

fashion for a more sustainable future.<br />

15<br />

PANGAIA


MARIE CLAIRE<br />

ADIDAS FUTURECRAFT_STRUNG<br />

Let’s Get Digital:<br />

Smart Supply Chain & S<strong>of</strong>tware<br />

ADIDAS FUTURECRAFT_STRUNG<br />

Technology is continually advancing within the clothing industry, from sustainable<br />

solutions like chemical recycling, recyclable fabrics and regenerative cotton to 3D<br />

design, 3D printing and virtual reality; all are rewriting the rules for design,<br />

working towards a better future with reformed inclusivity and accessibility.<br />

16<br />

Take Adidas and their FUTURECRAFT_STRUNG textile innovation, where each<br />

individual thread is data mapped and designed with 3D technology using athlete<br />

data. <strong>The</strong>y also have a “Three Loop Strategy”; whereby they are committed to using<br />

exclusively recycled polyester by 2024, aim to be a circular brand and their ultimate<br />

goal is for regenerative products to be made with renewable resources and<br />

natural processes.


PUMA X FABRICANT DIGITAL CLOTHING www.thefabricant.com<br />

<strong>The</strong> pandemic has induced digital-transformation and accelerated the rise <strong>of</strong><br />

digital design, digital fashion shows and even the role <strong>of</strong> robots. <strong>The</strong> role <strong>of</strong><br />

3D design is a futuristic approach to smarten up supply chains; enabling a<br />

realistic view <strong>of</strong> how a garment will look, reducing sampling and increasing the<br />

speed to market. This could even work for a pre-order strategy where brands/<br />

retailers could launch 3D designed product securing pr<strong>of</strong>it first. Or some brands<br />

like Scandinavian brand Carlings have a digital only collection, whereby<br />

consumers pay €10-30 for a design, then the garments are superimposed onto<br />

consumers’ images, which can then be shared on social media.<br />

3D DESIGNED JACKET<br />

THE FABRICANT X PEAK PERFORMANCE<br />

CARLINGS<br />

<strong>The</strong> Fabricant is a pioneering 3D fashion<br />

house, selling 3D designs and collaborating<br />

with brands such as Peak Performane and<br />

Puma. Carlings have designed an interactive<br />

T-Shirt whereby consumers can digitally<br />

change it’s design through custom<br />

facebook/instagram filters that address the<br />

future with Earth and Humanity graphics.<br />

17


18<br />

HIGH TECH<br />

BURBERRY<br />

ADAPT, EVOLVE<br />

INNOVATE<br />

ZALANDO<br />

Live streamed fashion shows have been around for a while pre-pandemic,<br />

but this platform has multiplied during the pandemic since designers have<br />

had to adjust during lockdown. Virtual worlds have suddenly become<br />

more main stream, sophisticated and more inclusive driving design and<br />

culture. Digitally designed model avatars have been integrated into<br />

many fashion shows, for example Marc Cain below. When we can get<br />

back to shops, brands like Burberry are launching AI stores and online<br />

stores like Zalando are introducing smart sizing s<strong>of</strong>tware.<br />

However, there is also a digital divide;<br />

the social/education gap is widening,<br />

where many people don’t have access to<br />

technology and digital technologies are<br />

also polluting; it is predicted technology<br />

will contribute to 8% <strong>of</strong> global greenhouse<br />

gas emissions by 2025. Companies such<br />

as Organic Basics are switching to a low<br />

impact websites, reducing data transfer<br />

by up to 70%.<br />

WGSN<br />

MARC CAIN


VIRTUAL<br />

CONNECTIONS<br />

FACEBOOK VR AVATAR<br />

YOOXMIRROR<br />

Online retailer Yoox has launched a new<br />

feature in its YOOXMIRROR app where<br />

shoppers can create, style and share a<br />

personalised digital avatar by taking a<br />

selfie and Facebook are developing<br />

photo-realistic VR Avatar technology.<br />

#hightechfashion<br />

Adapt, Evolve &<br />

Innovate<br />

WGSN<br />

WGSN<br />

<strong>The</strong> role <strong>of</strong> robots or ‘cobots’<br />

is becoming more accepted<br />

within society. According to<br />

research organisation Robotics<br />

for Infectious Diseases, robots<br />

were directly involved in<br />

fighting the pandemic in 33<br />

countries; from delivering<br />

essentials to connecting<br />

doctors to patients or<br />

people to loved ones.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are even UV<br />

robots that are designed<br />

to disinfect surfaces and<br />

air. Technology will<br />

create more jobs than<br />

it destroys, if businesses<br />

and governments focus<br />

on strengthening digital<br />

capabilities by helping<br />

people connect to the<br />

virtual world and by<br />

building more careers in<br />

technology.<br />

VOLLEBAK<br />

COLLABORATIVE ROBOTS<br />

19

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