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New Zealand Memories - Issue 148

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APPETISER<br />

Tell the Story<br />

Sam photographed with his son Alf in the late 1990s.<br />

Courtesy: Sam Hunt<br />

An interview with <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> poet Sam Hunt, by<br />

author Rolland McKellar, is published on page 38 and<br />

features photographs from Sam’s personal collection<br />

plus one of his extraordinary works, Salt River Songs.<br />

1


EDITORIAL<br />

Dear Readers,<br />

As I write this note in early January, it is with thankfulness. <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> is<br />

amongst the handful of countries able to enjoy the luxury of a Christmas and<br />

<strong>New</strong> Year break subject to only limited restrictions. With news of vaccines<br />

emerging worldwide, the arrival of a defence against this devastating virus during<br />

mid 2021 is keenly anticipated. Meantime, let commonsense prevail as we keep<br />

each other safe.<br />

I was delighted to find a ‘fount of wisdom’ on navigator Abel Tasman during a<br />

visit to Te Awahou Nieuwe Stroom Museum in Foxton. I have long awaited the<br />

right author to write an article on the 17th century Dutch navigator and the<br />

feature is certainly worthy of the leading placement for 2021.<br />

Personal stories are always a highlight of the magazine. June Peka is welcomed back to our pages with a<br />

heart-warming account of Taupo in the days before tourism expanded the locality, while George Gumbrell’s<br />

memories of droving days in Canterbury reminds us of the hardships of life on the road. And Ian Gregory<br />

experienced his share of road weariness of a different kind during a twenty-five day cycling holiday from<br />

Taihape to Cape Reinga in 1953, quite an adventure for two boys aged fourteen with only seven pounds ten<br />

shillings each in their pockets - “In total we travelled about 2000 kilometres, most of it on gravel roads and all<br />

without getting a puncture”.<br />

Rural women in particular will hold warm memories of the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> Country Women’s Institute who<br />

have served communities since 1921 … and their work continues. Kay Morris Matthews marks the 100th<br />

anniversary of this esteemed organisation.<br />

The works of Sam Hunt have been an inspiration for almost fifty years. With gratitude we publish one of<br />

Sam’s a recent poems plus a selection of his personal photographs to illustrate Rolland McKellar’s interview.<br />

I recall a fleeting encounter with Sam in the early 1970s when queuing at a buffet table - a larger than life<br />

character in a green velvet jacket and classy boots who ushered me ahead of him in the line with a flourishing<br />

bow. Unforgettable.<br />

I close with the traditional wish of health and happiness.<br />

Wendy Rhodes,<br />

Editor<br />

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2


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Contributors<br />

Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington<br />

Auckland Libraries Heritage Collection<br />

Barrington, Ernie<br />

Clark, Wendy<br />

Collins, Bruce E.<br />

Dawson, Dorothy<br />

de Bonnaire, John<br />

Dingwall, Alan<br />

Dingwall, Paul<br />

Dixson Library, State Library of <strong>New</strong> South Wales<br />

Gregory, Ian<br />

Gumbrell, Bob<br />

Gumbrell, George<br />

Hawke’s Bay Museums Trust, Ruawharo Tā-ū-rangi<br />

Hedley, Alex<br />

Hogg, Colin<br />

Hunt, Sam<br />

Jackman, Roger<br />

Matthews, Kay Morris<br />

McKellar, Rolland<br />

McKinnon, Lyn<br />

Moor, Christopher<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> Women’s Institute<br />

Peka, June<br />

Pickmere, Alan<br />

Rakiura Museum<br />

State Library of Victoria<br />

Stewart, Graham<br />

Tairawhiti Museum<br />

Te Awahou Riverside Cultural Park<br />

van der Boon, Arjan<br />

Opinions: Expressed by contributors are not<br />

necessarily those of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> <strong>Memories</strong>.<br />

Accuracy: While every effort has been made to<br />

present accurate information, the publishers take no<br />

responsibility for errors or omissions.<br />

Copyright: All material as presented in<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> <strong>Memories</strong> is copyright to the publishers<br />

or the individual contributors as credited.<br />

Contents<br />

The Man Who Showed Captain Cook the Way to Aotearoa 4<br />

A contribution from Arjan van der Boon.<br />

Taupo Tonic Sulphur 12<br />

From Petone to Taupo: a culture shock for June Peka in 1952.<br />

Droving Days 16<br />

George Gumbrell recorded his experiences as a farmer and drover.<br />

To North Cape By Bicycle 20<br />

An epic ride for teenager Ian Gregory in the summer of 1952.<br />

Maintaining the Buses in the 1960s 24<br />

Roger Jackman’s dream job.<br />

The Copland Pass Affair 26<br />

Paul Dingwall relates one of his father’s mountaineering escapades.<br />

Ode to the Copland Valley 28<br />

A poem by Alan Dingwall.<br />

The ‘Perm’ 29<br />

Who remembers permanent wave machines at hairdressing salons?<br />

From the Regions: Gisborne / Eastland 30<br />

Centrefold: Tolaga Bay 36<br />

Punt across the Uawa River in 1916.<br />

Charm it Crazy 38<br />

Rolland McKellar interviews Sam Hunt.<br />

Conquest Magazine 43<br />

Dorothy Dawson still has copies of a treasured publication.<br />

When the Boat Comes In… 44<br />

Lyn McKinnon: war bride.<br />

Mrs Markham Was Miss Galore 48<br />

Actress Honor Blackman is the subject of Christopher Moor’s feature.<br />

From the Regions: Southland 51<br />

The Caretakers of Kawau 58<br />

Wendy Clark explores her family’s link with a Hauraki Gulf island.<br />

Lifting Horizons 64<br />

Kay Morris Matthews marks the NZ Women’s Institute centenary.<br />

Reader’s Response: My “O.E.” – 1972 to 1973 68<br />

John de Bonnaire was inspired by an article in <strong>Issue</strong> 146.<br />

Index and Genealogy List 70<br />

Editor’s Choice: Sign Posting Patrol 72<br />

Slow progress on the Helensville to Port Albert highway in 1929.<br />

Cover image:<br />

Glade House, Te Anau – Milford Track, 1 March 1911.<br />

Courtesy: Graham Stewart<br />

ISSN 1173-4159<br />

February / March 2021<br />

3


EXPLORATION<br />

The Man Who Showed Captain Cook<br />

the Way to Aotearoa<br />

Arjan van der Boon<br />

Co-Chair, Oranjehof Dutch Connection Museum Trust: Marketing Manager, Te Awahou Riverside Cultural Park.<br />

The ships Zeehaen and Heemskerck close to Three Kings Islands sketched by Isaac Gilsemans. View of Cape<br />

Jackson (left) to Stephens Island (right) from the anchorage east of d’Urville.<br />

Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, NZ. Ref: PUBL-0105-004<br />

4


EXPLORATION<br />

When Captain James Cook set sail from Tahiti<br />

for our shores in 1769, he took a Polynesian<br />

star navigator on board. The ariori (priest)<br />

Tupaia had extensive knowledge of the<br />

cosmos, the stars, and the more or less exact position of<br />

islands like Samoa, Tonga and Fiji and the lengths of time it<br />

would take to get to each.<br />

But the celebrated explorer and cartographer also took his<br />

lead from another of the world’s great navigators. It is more<br />

than likely that the Endeavour carried a copy of Abel Tasman’s<br />

Journal on board, which was translated in English by one<br />

of his captains – Joseph Banks. We also know that during<br />

his journey, James Cook made use of a scholarly book on<br />

mathematics which included a detailed summary account of<br />

Tasman’s journey – written by Dutchman Van Nierop and<br />

translated into English and published by the Royal Society in<br />

1682. In other words, Captain Cook knew where to go.<br />

Things had been quite different for the seafarer from the<br />

Netherlands – 127 years earlier. Tasman took two small<br />

wooden boats into unknown territory, across perilous southern<br />

seas, to finally end up at the coasts of Te Wai Pounamu and<br />

Te Ika a Maui. Still, many people believe that it is the English<br />

explorer, with multiple statues all across our nation, who was<br />

the first European to ‘discover’ Aotearoa…<br />

International Man of Mystery<br />

So who was this relatively unknown Abel Janszoon Tasman?<br />

What are the mysteries that surround him? We know quite a<br />

lot about his many voyages, insofar as 17th century records<br />

of discovery go. The story of how he arrived at our shores is<br />

well documented through his Journal and some other sources.<br />

He departed from Batavia (nowadays Jakarta) for Mauritius,<br />

where he repaired his run-down ships, so he could head east<br />

with the Trade Winds in his sails. He arrived in Tasmania, had<br />

his encounter with Ngāti Tumatakokiri in Mohua, and then<br />

sailed home touching Tonga, Fiji and Papua <strong>New</strong> Guinea.<br />

The entire arduous journey is exceptionally well illustrated<br />

through maps with highly exact coordinates, and artful<br />

drawings of coastlines and encounters with local inhabitants.<br />

Still, there are some interesting questions to explore like,<br />

what kind of person was he? Do we even know what he<br />

looked like? Did he set foot on land, in what we nowadays<br />

call Golden Bay? And what exactly happened on that fateful<br />

day of 19 December 1642, when Dutch as well as Māori men<br />

died in the brief, violent exchange that took less than half<br />

an hour to unfold. The first-ever encounter between Tangata<br />

Whenua and Europeans…<br />

Above: This ink drawing is a likely portrait of Abel Tasman from<br />

a collection of portraits of early 17th century Dutch admirals,<br />

navigators and officials employed by the Netherlands East<br />

India Company or the companies which amalgamated from it.<br />

Courtesy: Dixson Library, State Library of <strong>New</strong> South Wales<br />

5


EXPLORATION<br />

Humble Beginnings<br />

Both Captain Cook and Commodore Tasman had humble origins, as sons of farmers in a small rural village.<br />

Both also were ambitious, smart and largely self-taught in the skills required to lead ships and men. Each took<br />

advantage of the career opportunities that were offered by navies in turbulent times when many men died at sea,<br />

and international trade was the way to make fortunes. But whilst Cook is celebrated in the English-speaking<br />

Commonwealth, the Dutch have a less favourable opinion about Tasman. A modern authority on his discoveries,<br />

B. J. Slot, puts it this way:<br />

“Tasman was neither a pleasant man nor a gentleman… Tasman never achieved spectacular results and<br />

… His career with the Company [the VOC] ended in frustration” 1<br />

What the historian Slot is probably doing here though, perhaps unwittingly, is comparing Tasman with the<br />

great so-called ‘sea heroes’ (zeehelden) of the Netherlands from the 17th century – fondly remembered on stamps,<br />

bank notes and in history lessons. These are the famous names, who defeated Spanish, Portuguese and English<br />

fleets, made conquests and captured bullion, or ships and hostages, from countries with whom the budding Dutch<br />

republic was at war.<br />

Tasman, for one, would definitely have disagreed with Slot’s assessment. He had transcended his humble origins,<br />

and could happily retire as a wealthy man in the Dutch settlement of Batavia, together with his wife and daughter.<br />

1 B J Slot; Abel Tasman and the discovery of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> (1992), p.88.<br />

6


EXPLORATION<br />

Above: This is a copy of Frans Visscher’s chart of the discoveries made by Abel Tasman<br />

during his 1642–43 and 1644 voyages. The west coast of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> is shown at the<br />

bottom. Unlike Tasman’s map, which showed Cook Strait as a bay, Visscher’s shows a gap,<br />

suggesting the presence of a passage.<br />

Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, NZ. Ref: B-K 741-96<br />

Left: Most mapmakers in the Netherlands used Tasman’s map of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> – with Cook<br />

Strait closed off (pictured at left). Others would use Visscher’s version (above) with an<br />

unexplored opening between the North and South Island. This map shows how mapmakers<br />

for over a hundred years were fooled by Tasman’s deceit.<br />

Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, NZ. Ref: Mapcoll 830a/1642(1726)/Acc.32129<br />

7


FEATURE<br />

The Copland Pass Affair<br />

Paul Dingwall<br />

My father, Alan Dingwall, was an assistant mountain guide at Mount Cook<br />

during the period 1928 to 1932, spending a number of his university<br />

vacations there. In January 1932, the chief guide, Vic Williams, asked<br />

Alan to join him and assistant-guide Lynn Murray on a trip to the<br />

Copland Valley in Westland to help escort a party across the Copland Pass. This is a<br />

demanding and hazardous route requiring a high degree of mountaineering experience.<br />

The pass is 2,150 metres in altitude, the terrain is rugged and unstable with snow cover<br />

and often icy, and the weather can be wild. 1 A snowstorm forced the guides to stay<br />

overnight in the Hooker hut, after which they made good progress in fresh snow on the<br />

1,000 metre climb to the pass. Their packs were light, containing mainly fresh provisions<br />

for the party, comprising eight loaves of bread and some butter. Having crossed the pass<br />

they negotiated the steep and tortuous descent into the Copland River valley, stopping<br />

briefly at the Douglas Rock hut and a nearby bivouac – a natural shelter under a huge<br />

boulder, its walls blackened by many fires and the ground strewn with some bedding and<br />

an assortment of rusted tins and discarded bottles.<br />

On arrival at Welcome Flat hut they found the party well settled in – a group of 25<br />

members of the Christchurch YMCA tramping club. 2 At four o’clock the next morning,<br />

with Vic, Lynn and Alan leading, a winding cavalcade of eager young men set out on<br />

the ascending trail, aided by torch and flickering candle light. Jumbled masses of storm<br />

clouds ominously began gathering overhead and sweeping down the valley. Three hours<br />

later, on reaching Douglas Rock hut, there was a very brief stop to boil the billy, before<br />

the party continued on upwards in worsening and uncertain weather conditions. Soon<br />

the wind increased, rain gave way to driving snow and the clouds, now at ground level,<br />

reduced visibility to almost nothing. Exposed hands and faces turned blue, teeth began<br />

chattering and feet were stamped to help restore circulation and warmth. Sensing an<br />

impending tragedy, the guides reluctantly signalled a retreat to Douglas Rock hut.<br />

The party was soon crowded around a blazing log fire, lines strung above the fireplace<br />

were hung with an assortment of socks, and the hearth festooned with a confusion of<br />

saturated muddy boots and cold feet. With the rain continuing in torrents and the<br />

impassable, unbridged flooded streams blocking a further retreat down valley, the party<br />

was now trapped within the confines of the hut. And it certainly was confined. Even<br />

with packs stored under bunks and benches and the wet clothing stacked in a lean-to at<br />

the rear of the chimney, it was near impossible for 28 men to move within a space meant<br />

to accommodate fewer than 10, and was accomplished only if two or three moved at<br />

once and were careful where they trod. With the incessant rain drumming on the iron<br />

roof, the wind conveying the roar of the swollen river with large rocks tumbling along<br />

its bed, accompanied by the booming of avalanches spilling over precipices high above,<br />

there arose the prospect of a prolonged stay, which in the event was to extend to three<br />

days and nights. Of immediate concern was the limited food supply. A search of the hut<br />

revealed only a small bag of flour suspended from the rafters, with six cubes of ‘oxo’, and<br />

some tea, salt and sugar in a cupboard, supplementing the meagre supplies of rice and<br />

oatmeal and a can of Symington’s soup from the YMCA group, and what remained of<br />

the bread and butter brought by the guides. For cooking there was only a well-blackened<br />

fry pan and billy to use on the open fire. Long evenings in the dimly lit and smoky hut<br />

were spent with wide-ranging discussions, especially about food, and a song or story<br />

when these flagged. Bedtime was not welcomed. The few over-crowded bunks collapsed<br />

and had to be laced with alpine ropes, while most of the group had to squeeze into the<br />

1 The Department of Conservation warns that a number of climbers have died attempting to cross the Copland Pass.<br />

2 By remarkable coincidence the party included Tom Harker, my future father-in-law.<br />

26


FEATURE<br />

Douglas Rock hut, Westland.<br />

Christchurch YMCA tramping club booklet of 1931-32.<br />

The trip to the glaciers and Mount Cook<br />

limited space available on the floor.<br />

On the third night the rain finally ceased and a few stars appeared. After a hasty breakfast of a slice of bread<br />

from the last remaining loaf, at 3.00 a.m. the young men resumed their quest to reach the summit of the pass. As<br />

dawn broke they gazed in wonder at the magnificent vista of the many towering snow covered summits, with the<br />

three crowning peaks of Aorangi / Mount Cook sharply silhouetted and bathed in the golden glow of sunrise.<br />

The enthralling sight elicited delighted exclamations that broke the silence attending the morning tramp so far.<br />

On reaching the pass, with the guides breaking trail through a deep pack of soft snow, they encountered two<br />

guides sent out by the anxious manager of the Hermitage to locate the overdue party. This additional manpower<br />

proved invaluable for assisting the party members, all attached to guides in a series of ropes, to descend the steep<br />

and hazardous slopes. Alan recalls the difficulty he encountered in negotiating the ‘Devil’s Staircase’, requiring<br />

another guide to belay him (securing a rope around an ice axe) as he lowered his group down on a short rope.<br />

Having safely accomplished the descent, the party then reached the Hooker hut where the very hungry young<br />

men were quickly fortified by a hearty meal of tinned beef and fruit, washed down with lots of billy tea.<br />

Arrival at the Hermitage in mid-afternoon brought the ‘Copland Pass Affair’ to a close. The group had set a<br />

new record as the largest party ever to make a traverse of the Copland Pass. Chief guide Vic Williams declared<br />

that in his 10 years of guiding it was one of the most perfect alpine crossings he had made. The YMCA account,<br />

published as an illustrated booklet, called the Copland Pass traverse the gem of their entire trip, with memories<br />

of “a day that will never fade from our minds”. Alan reflected that the adventure was a lesson in fortitude and<br />

human relationships. Together with the awe inspiring scenery, it made a lasting emotional impression on him<br />

that he expressed in a romantic poem Ode to the Copland Valley. n<br />

The poem is printed on the following page.<br />

27


REGIONS<br />

36


Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, NZ1/1-022067-G<br />

GISBORNE / EASTLAND<br />

Tolaga Bay<br />

Transporting sheep on a punt over the Uawa River. Photographed by Frederick Hargreaves in about 1916. The<br />

punt was built by Mr E.B. Boland following damage to the Uawa River bridge (built 1905) during the 1916 floods.<br />

37


FEATURE<br />

Lifting Horizons<br />

The <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> Women’s Institute celebrates 100 years<br />

Kay Morris Matthews<br />

My mother was a member of the<br />

Women’s Institute for 50 years and<br />

really enjoyed the friendship and<br />

camaraderie of the women in the<br />

organisation.<br />

She sang in the choral section and acted in the<br />

dramatic productions. She entered floral art and<br />

handicraft competitions and had a drawer full of<br />

certificates as evidence of her successes. Mum also did<br />

her bit serving on the Bay View branch committee and<br />

attended a great many meetings<br />

One particular custom she enjoyed, and often spoke<br />

about, was having an anonymous ‘special friend’<br />

allocated each year. This was someone who would<br />

remember her birthday and bring food if she was ill. It<br />

was always such a pleasant surprise to discover at the<br />

end of each year just who that special friend had been.<br />

Friendship and support have always been<br />

fundamental to the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> Women’s Institute.<br />

So too, is having fun and providing opportunities to<br />

participate in educational and cultural group activities<br />

and events. Indeed, such has been the appeal of the<br />

Women’s Institute that tens of thousands of women<br />

joined and it became the largest women’s organisation<br />

in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong>.<br />

So where did the idea of a women’s institute<br />

come from? It originated in Hawke’s Bay, in a small<br />

settlement called Rissington, about 17 miles west of<br />

Napier. The first meeting there, and many meetings<br />

after that, were held at Omatua, a local homestead.<br />

Omatua was the home of Amy and Frank Hutchinson<br />

who were sheep farmers. Omatua was also the home<br />

of Anna Elizabeth Jerome Spencer, who lived with<br />

them.<br />

Jerome Spencer and Amy Hutchinson understood<br />

that women who lived in the country, were often<br />

socially isolated. In 1914, they began a World War<br />

One Soldier Relief Scheme as part of the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong><br />

Red Cross, which saw local women gathering regularly<br />

at Omatua, where there was plenty of space, to work<br />

together on knitting, sewing and parcel packing.<br />

Of particular enjoyment for the women were the<br />

sessions that Jerome Spencer planned, like a talk on<br />

invalid cookery, or discussing a topic of mutual interest<br />

as they knitted and sewed. A support network arose<br />

from their conversation and sharing of skills. Women<br />

began to visit one another and help each other out<br />

when, for example, a family member became ill or was<br />

wounded on the battlefield. They also comforted each<br />

other when, in several cases, local men were killed in<br />

action.<br />

By 1916, when Jerome Spencer went to England to<br />

volunteer her services for the war effort, she and Amy<br />

Hutchinson believed that the gatherings of the women<br />

would be greatly missed once the war ended. Writing<br />

to Amy at Rissington, Jerome Spencer reported having<br />

visited a display of handcrafts by branches of the<br />

English Women’s Institute in London. She attended a<br />

few meetings and spoke with members of the executive<br />

body in a bid to find out as much as she could about<br />

the Institute.<br />

Once back in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong>, Amy Hutchinson,<br />

who was credited as being the spiritual founder of the<br />

Women’s Institute, sent out invitations to women of<br />

the Rissington district inviting them to Omatua for<br />

an afternoon tea meeting on 21 February 1921. There,<br />

Jerome Spencer spoke of what she seen of the English<br />

Women’s Institutes and wondered if there would be<br />

sufficient interest in starting a branch at Rissington.<br />

The levels of support were such that on 27 February<br />

1921, the first meeting was held.<br />

The camaraderie of women was the core of the<br />

Women’s Institute, a foil to the everyday work of the<br />

farming woman, filled with child rearing, cooking,<br />

housework and farm chores. Jerome Spencer spoke of,<br />

and wrote about, the value of “true neighbourliness<br />

and cultivation of kindly feelings”.<br />

She added her own ideas and understandings of <strong>New</strong><br />

<strong>Zealand</strong> rural women’s lives. Her thoughtful attention<br />

to what would most appeal to women, in order to<br />

have them sign up as Institute members, was key to<br />

the huge success of the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong> movement. She<br />

understood that for many farm women, the attraction<br />

of the meetings was the company of other women.<br />

For some it was the only time each month when they<br />

interacted with others outside their immediate family<br />

or farm. Having time-out and having fun was part of<br />

her plan.<br />

As she said: “At these meetings all the women of<br />

a district, rich and poor, learned and unlearned, of<br />

64


FEATURE<br />

The first Women’s Institute members at Rissington, 27 February 1921. Amy Hutchinson, is seated at left in the<br />

middle row. Next to her is Jerome Spencer. Collection of Hawke’s Bay Museums Trust, Ruawharo Tā-ū-rangi, [17266]<br />

65


EDITOR’S CHOICE<br />

Sign Posting Patrol<br />

Slow progress for the first Auto Automobile Association Sign Posting Patrol truck along the main highway<br />

between Helensville and Port Albert in 1929. Photographed during a road sign posting exercise in the Province<br />

of Auckland. The number plate is 1-800. Courtesy: Graham Stewart<br />

72

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