Diamond World (DW) September - October 2020

FOunDER: Late Vidya Vinod Kala
Alok Kala
Editor and Publisher
Arpit Kala
Associate Publisher
Vijetha Rangabashyam
Senior Editor
Vol. 47 No.6 INDIA 300
SURAT
DIAMOND
BOURSE
JUST WHAT THE
INDUSTRY NEEDS?
Shining Colourfully
Colour diamonds
demand on an uptick
Cover courtesy:
Dreamboule
50
50 | Special Feature
Poetic DiamonDs
Demand for fancy colour
diamonds are on the rise, as
collectors want something
rare and one-of-a-kind
60
60 | in converSation
Rajesh R. shah –
PaRtneR, Venus
jewel
51 Years of Creating
Brilliance
Sugandha R
Features Editor
Gunjan Jain
Business & Marketing
Diamond promotion
hinges on EMOTION
+ Ben Crocco of
Dreamboule, IIJS Virtual,
Teal Sapphires & more
46
Dhananjay Kokate
Graphic Designer
Subscription:
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Vol. 47 # 6 • SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2020
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Surat Diamond Bourse
Surat Diamond Bourse –
A Beacon of Hope
As operations of Surat Diamond Bourse, a dream project, are in full swing
and the finish line is almost a few months away, the industry affirms that
both Surat and Mumbai together are poised to make India the top diamond
manufacturing country in the world says Sugandha R
56 | Show report
iijs ViRtual 2020 : a
PRomising PlatfoRm
56
76 | company FocuS
ankit gems
Beating the oDDs – ankit
gems a sPaRkling staR
46 | Special Feature
teal saPPhiRes
Wear a Piece of the Ocean
and the Forest at Once
Mumbai Office :
Unit No 19, Ground floor,
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Published from :
Journal House,
A-95, Janta Colony,
Jaipur
64 | Special Feature
ClinCh the Deal with
emotion & aSpiRation!
As we are amidst festive
and bridal seasons, retailers
affirm that demand for
diamonds is huge
34 | Cover Story
64
78 | DeSiGn StuDio
Ben cRocco - DReamBoule
the liquiD DReam Potion
78
70 | the rocK talK
cushion cut, eVil
eye motif anD
omBRe PatteRn
70

editorial
A Colourful
future
Diamond sales always need a push, especially in India,
where the masses buy jewellery for its excellent return
on investment – which is invariably the best in plain gold
jewellery as compared to diamond jewellery. Buy back
offers, certification, etc are various ways in which retailers are wooing
customers to buy diamonds, unstable gold prices are also helping to
push demand for diamond jewellery, over the past few months. Indian
consumers, today have become quite discerning and therefore demand
for coloured diamonds is also on the rise. The upcoming festival and
wedding season, too is helping push the demand for diamond jewellery.
The current edition talks to diamond retailers from all over India
and finds out their strategies to sell diamond jewellery despite the
pandemic and the challenging economic conditions. Jewellery sales
are rising and demand for diamonds is growing especially smaller
items like rings and earrings are some of the fastest moving items. The
current edition also provides a sneak peek in the ongoing work of the
Surat Diamond Bourse and its salient features, and how eagerly Indian
diamond traders and manufacturers are awaiting its completion.
All is well on the Western front, as the US markets are showing
signs of recovery and diamond sales are escalating. Diamonds are
once again poised to charm the world with their unparalleled shimmer.
Happy Diwali!
Editor
Alok Kala
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 19

Round & About
Rough & Mining
Petra revenue increases
with growing rough prices
Rio Tinto
diamonds
dazzle in rough
diamond tender
headlining Rio Tinto’s
forthcoming “Specials”
Tender, which showcases
rough diamonds greater than 10.8
carats, is Lot number 1, Diavik
Helios, a 74.48 carat Fancy yellow
diamond. The Diavik Helios takes
its name from the pure yellow
sunlight emitted by the mythical
Greek God of the Sun. The Diavik
Helios is an exceptional diamond
in terms of its colour saturation
and clarity and will be in strong
demand from coloured diamond
specialists around the world.
28,399 carats of rough
Argyle diamonds are included,
showcasing the famed Argyle
coloured diamonds, together with
a beautiful 26 carat white gem
quality rough Argyle diamond.
Q1 revenue increased 33 per cent to US$82.0 million
(Q1 FY 2020: US$61.6 million) mainly due to the
release of inventory carried over from Q4 FY 2020.
Although diamond prices increased ca. 21 per cent on a likefor-like
basis at the September 2020 tender in comparison to
the prices obtained following the COVID-19 outbreak, with
a further ca. 2 per cent increase at the October 2020 tender
post period end, prices are still down around 10 per cent in
comparison to pre-COVID-19 levels.
Petra recovers five high
quality blue diamonds
Petra Diamonds announced that it has recovered five
Type IIb blue diamonds of high quality in terms of both
their colour and clarity at the Cullinan mine in South
Africa. Blue diamonds are so rare that there are no official
statistics on their recovery, however the Cullinan mine is
known as the world’s most important source. The last blue
diamond of significance was recovered a year ago at the mine
in September 2019.
20 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD

Round & About
Rough & Mining
POLISHED DIAMONDS
Lulo sells
3862cts for US $
5.6 million
Lucapa Diamond Company
and announced the results
from the latest sale of
diamonds from the Lulo alluvial
diamond mine in Angola. A total of
3,862 carats of Lulo diamonds sold
for gross proceeds of US$5.6 million
(A$7.9 million) on a 100 per cent
basis, representing an average price
of US$1,450 (A$2,057)/ carat.
Total sales year to date amount to
16,128 carats for US$21.3 million
(A$31.2 million) or US$1,323
(A$1,932)/ carat.
Lucapa Managing Director
Stephen Wetherall commented:
“As foreshadowed, the strong
operational performance and
record diamond recoveries at Lulo
in July and August, together with
a recovering diamond demand
positively impacting prices, should
bode well for Lulo in H2 2020.”
De Beers group
introduces ReSet
De Beers Group is pleased to introduce ReSet, a series
of collaborations with jewellery designers to engage
in conversations around sustainability and to offer a
fresh perspective on the positive impacts of natural diamonds.
The initiative aims to help ‘reset’ perceptions and shine
a light on the significant positive contribution that natural
diamonds deliver for the people and places where they are
found, by collaborating with established and up-and-coming
jewellery designers who will set diamonds discovered by De
Beers into a range of pieces, celebrating sustainability in the
sector.
The initiative’s first activation – the ReSet Collective
– launched in early October and was a collaboration with
five leading US designers who shared a passion for natural
diamonds and sustainable sourcing – Jade Trau, Jennie Kwon,
Julez Bryant, Sara Weinstock and Zoë Chicco. The designers
travelled to Botswana late last year to visit De Beers Group’s
operations and a range of community and conservation
programmes, learning about the company’s commitment to
Building Forever, which focuses on building a positive legacy
by protecting the environment, helping communities thrive,
championing women and girls and being industry leaders in
ethical practices.
“Desire Luxury”
with KISNA
Diamonds new
collection
KISNA Diamonds launched its latest
collection of the finest jewellery
ahead of the festive season with
“Desire Luxury”. The collection, featuring
over 750 new and unique designs is being
launched on its latest Jewellery App,
KISNAForce, a scientific, and data-driven
experience that is set to revolutionize
jewellery buying experience. Over 500
retailers attended Kisna’s First ever Digital
Launch extravaganza that concluded in
October.
KISNA’s Solitaire Collection is the perfect
soul mate for any woman and makes any
simple occasion, most memorable in her
life. Rings, earrings and pendants set
withbrilliant and dazzling diamonds from
KISNA’s solitaire collection are a mark of
perfection, their popularity extending beyond
time. On the KISNAForce App, the user can
even choose the size of the diamonds from a
range of options provided.
Ghanshyam Dholakia and Parag Shah at Virtual Launch
22 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD

Round & About
POLISHED DIAMONDS
Round & About
AssociAtion & trAde Bodies
HVK International’s Surat factory
female workforce
HVK International
drives gender
equality in the
diamond polishing
industry
HVK International, a De
Beers Sightholder and
one of the world’s leading
manufacturers of brown diamonds,
employs 120 women across the full
range of technical functions. Its
attractiveness for female employees
is evidenced by tenure.
The majority of female workers
have been with the business for
over 10 years. HVK rigorously
invests in training and development
of female workers, and sees a better
pay back in loyalty and skill level
attained than typically seen in their
male counterparts. It also addresses
any concerns of female safety, often
cited as an issue by working women.
HVK’s policy of ‘no overtime’ for
female workers ensures they can
travel safely on arranged transport
during regular hours.
KGK Group won two
meritorious titles at JNA
Awards 2020
As one of the pioneers in the gems and jewellery
industry, KGK Group is renowned for its passion for
artistic excellence and commitment to exceptional
quality. KGK’s consistent growth, outlined by innovation,
has strengthened its vertically integrated business portfolio
ranging from mines to brands.
“We are delighted to have a long-standing association with
the JNA Awards. This initiative gives us a valuable opportunity
to connect ourselves with various industry partners and
associates that demonstrate innovation, creativity, outstanding
leadership, sustainability and best business practices.” states
Mr. Sanjay Kothari, Vice Chairman, KGK Group.
Going forward with endeavours across the globe, KGK has
significantly invested in new product designs, techniques,
innovative approaches and efficient online business models to
best serve the ever-growing and rapidly changing preferences
of its valued patrons. And this is what has resulted in this
commendable victory at JNA Awards.
Sanjay Kothari with the trophy of Excellence
Industry elects new AWDC board
members representing trade
the Antwerp World Diamond
Centre has announced the
appointment of six new
Board Members representing the
trade on the Board of Directors.
Mr Sahag Arslanian (Arslanian
Group nv). and Mr. Isi Morsel
(Dali Diamond Company nv) were
automatically elected as Directors
in the category of an annual
turnover of more than € 100
million. In the second category,
with an annual turnover between
€ 30 million to € 100 million, Mr.
Jay Mehta ((J.N. Diamonds bv)
and Mr. David Gotlib (IDRP bv)
were elected. In the category of an
annual turnover of less than € 30
million Mr. Lalit Kumar Nahata
(Nahata Lalit) and Mr. Amish Jain
(N.N. Diamonds bv) were elected.
The new Board of Directors will
also elect a new President for the
AWDC among its members.
24 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 25

Round & About
AssociAtion & trAde Bodies
Round & About
ASSociATioN & TrADe BoDieS
GJEPC’s 2nd Virtual
India Global Connect
Meet explores trade
opportunities with
Colombia
After the successful India Global
Connect meet with the UK,
GJEPC organised the second
edition of the India Global Connect
with Colombia on 28th October. His
Excellency Sanjiv Ranjan, Ambassador
of India to Colombia; Mr. Suresh
Kumar, Joint Secretary, MOCI; Mr.
Jaime Mantilla, Executive President
of the Colombia India Chamber of
Commerce and Board Member of the
Bogota Chamber of Commerce; Mr.
Colin Shah, Chairman, GJEPC; Mr.
Mansukh Kothari, Convener, Events;
Mr. Sabyasachi Ray, ED, GJEPC, were
part of the meet.
The objective of the meet was to
understand the current business scenario
with regard to the gem and jewellery
sector and have discussions among
manufacturers, exporters and importers
of both the countries, and initiate a
dialogue, explore trade opportunities
and project India as a viable sourcing
destination.
GJePc flags off first-ever
VBsM for emeralds
Jaipur is a major hub for coloured gemstones. For
generations manufacturers from this city have
been finding new avenues to showcase finest
of their gemstones so as to catch the attention of the
global buyer, who can give them a good price for their
products. Physical buyer-seller meets cannot happen
during the pandemic and there was global lockdown for
the first half of 2020, business has been badly affected.
In order to overcome all of these difficulties, GJPEC
has for the first time organized a Virtual Buyer-Seller
Meet (VBSM) for coloured gemstones – especially
Emeralds – from November 3 to 6.
The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council
of India (GJEPC), the apex body for promotion of
gems and jewellery, inaugurated the first-ever rough
gemstone souring show in the presence of Chief Guest,
Subhash Chandra Agrawal, Commissioner of Customs
(Preventive), Jaipur; Colin Shah, Chairman, GJEPC;
Nirmal Kr. Bardiya, Regional Chairman, Jaipur
Region; Vijay Kedia, Convener, Coloured Gemstones
and Pearls, GJEPC; Sabyasachi Ray, ED, GJEPC along
with others. With an intention to make gemstones
available for Indian cutting and polishing industry
and also to enable direct sourcing of rough coloured
diamonds, GJEPC has organised a month long firstever
rough gemstones sourcing show, India Rough
Gemstones Sourcing Show - 2020, which will close on
December 11.
Surat Diamond Association gets new chief
Nanubhai Vekariya has been made new
head of Surat Diamond Association
(SDA). Surat Diamond Association
is a Non-Profit Organization formed and
run jointly by the major gems and jewellery
industry leaders of Surat from 1988. Since
then, the community is working towards the
welfare of the society and also helping the
diamond industry to expand and grow to its
best in the world. SDA's major mission is to
promote the growth of the diamond industry
and towards its sustainable future.
On becoming the new chief of SDA
Nanubhai Vekariya said, "The Covid19
has dampened the spirit of diamantaires
reasonably. In my experience, such
calamities come and go, and demand for
diamonds comes back to normal. We need to
keep some patience and perseverance and
things will improve, markets across the world
have started opening up and in India too they
will open and demand will be restored to pre-
Covid19 days.”
Govt. issues notification to accept amendment to Kimberley
Process certificates post validation by GJEPC
The Directorate
General of
Foreign Trade
(DGFT), Government
of India, issued a
notification dated 28th
September permitting
the amendment of
technical nature, typographical
errors or errors apparent on
the face of records in
KP Certificate based
on SOP and validated
by Gem & Jewellery
Export Promotion
Council (GJEPC).
GJEPC as per KP
procedure endorses the
KP Certificates received from
the KP Issuing Authority abroad
for clearance of rough diamonds
imported from abroad. The
GJEPC is the nodal agency for
Kimberley Process Certification
Scheme and undertakes all
KP certification within the
country, as well as assist GoI's
representation on international
fora on all KP related matters.
26 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 27

Round & About
LAB & TECHNOLOGY
LAB & TECHNOLOGY
Round & About
VDB Launches
Software as a
Service
Virtual Diamond Boutique
(VDB), announces the launch
of Software as a Service (SaaS)
in support of jewelers of all types –
retailers, designers / manufacturers,
dealers and industry organizations who
are seeking to achieve specific goals and
greater success in the new normal of a
virtual world. The only software-based
technology developed by the jewelry
industry for the jewelry industry, the
VDB SaaS solution is a customizable,
jewelry specific platform that can
enhance existing systems, technologies
or websites and can create unique B2B
or B2C apps for smart devices to better
serve customers and clients and sell
more product.
With over 50 technology experts,
VDB can offer quick installation and
personalized assistance at affordable
rates, capitalizing on the vast jewelry
expertise of its team of seasoned
industry veterans.
GIA India organises first
virtual alumni guest session
with Dr. C. Vinod Hayagriv
GIA India organised its first-ever virtual alumni
guest session that was attended by more
than 100 alumni. The guest speaker was Dr.
C. Vinod Hayagriv, Managing Director and Director,
C. Krishniah Chetty (CKC) Group of Jewellers, who
spoke about managing and evolving a retail brand
with gemstones
and diamonds
over generations
and the relevance
Dr. C. Vinod Hayagriv at GIA India’s firstever
virtual alumni guest session
amidst changes
and challenges.
The participants
were excited to
not just hear from a jeweller at the helm of a 150-
year legacy, but also from an alumnus – Dr. Hayagriv
completed his Diamond & Colored Stone Diplomas
from GIA’s Santa Monica, CA, USA, and Hong Kong
campuses in 1982.
HRD Antwerp appoints new
Managing Director in India
HRD Antwerp, Europe's Leading Authority
in Diamond and Jewellery Certification,
Education and Research has appointed Jayant
Kulkarni as Managing Director in its India office.
Jayant's appointment comes at a time when HRD
Antwerp is expanding its grading services globally.
Jayant will spearhead the development of the India
market for HRD Antwerp's services. Jayant brings with
him a rich experience of 16 years, with ten years in the
gem and jewellery industry.
Sarine Galaxy® service centre
opens in Dubai
AThe Galaxy® inclusion scanning centre for rough
stones will open in Dubai to provide services to
customers in this evolving key trading centre for
rough and polished diamonds. Dubai, already home to
a key trading bourse of
rough diamonds, is also
expected to further expand
to become an important
trading centre for polished
diamonds. TRIGEM DMCC,
an established provider
of assorted services to Dubai's diamond traders and tender
houses, will operate the service centre under license from
Sarine's wholly owned Galatea subsidiary and will split the
usual per carat service fees with us, as is the norm for thirdparty
operated service centres.
Sarine and NGTC launch light
performance report
Sarine Technologies announced that it has launched
its first co-branded light performance report with the
National Gemstone Testing Center (NGTC) of China,
which will be implemented by Yuanyumei (Y & M) Jewelry, a
leading high-end Chinese jewelry brand. A launch ceremony,
"Beloved Roses Heading
to the Light", was held
at the Shenzhen IBC
Mall on 9 September,
2020, attended by many
dignitaries, including
former Deputy Minister
of Geology and Mineral Resources and Chairman of the Gems
& Jewelry Trade Association of China (GAC) Zhouqi CHEN,
leading GAC's delegation, and others, including Sarine's
local representatives.
Gem Testing
Laboratory (GTL),
Jaipur recalibrates
to offer world-class
services
The laboratory is now housed
in a sprawling 10,000
sq ft area, located in the
premises of Indian Institute of
Gem & Jewellery, Sitapura, Jaipur.
The Gem Testing Laboratory,
Jaipur has now emerged as the
largest facility in the country for
certification of coloured gemstones,
diamonds and their jewellery.
Laboratory infrastructure now
includes few highly sophisticated,
sensitive and state-of-the-art
instruments, such as Laser
Ablation- In Coupled Plasma –
Mass Spectrometer (LA-ICPMS)
for chemical fingerprinting, x-ray
microCT for 2D/3D x-ray imaging,
automated screening machines
for loose and mounted diamonds,
in addition to other spectrometers
such as Laser Raman, Infra-red,
X-ray fluorescence, etc.
28 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 29

Round & About
RETAIL & E-COMMERCE
RETAIL & E-COMMERCE
Round & About
Tiffany and LVMH
modify merger price
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis
Vuitton SE, the world’s
leading luxury products
group, and Tiffany & Co., the global
luxury jeweler, recently announced
that they have concluded an
agreement modifying certain terms of
their initial agreement (the “Merger
Agreement”) to reflect a purchase
price of $131.50 in cash and to
reduce closing conditionality. Other
key terms of the Merger Agreement
remain unchanged. Tiffany and
LVMH have also agreed to settle their
pending litigation in the Delaware
Chancery Court. The Boards of
Directors of LVMH and Tiffany have
approved the terms of the transaction
and all required regulatory approvals
have been obtained. The modified
Merger Agreement provides that
the regularly scheduled Tiffany
quarterly dividend of $0.58 per share
due to be declared on November 19,
2020 will be declared and paid. The
merger is expected to close in early
2021, subject to Tiffany shareholder
approval and customary closing
conditions.
Lightbox opens $94-million
lab and announces
partnership with Blue Nile
Lightbox announced the official opening of its new US
manufacturing facility in Gresham, Oregon and a major
partnership with Blue Nile, the largest online fine
jewelry retailer. The Lightbox facility, located just outside of
Portland, started manufacturing this summer as construction
on the 60,000 square foot structure was being completed. It
will continue to ramp up
production through 2020
and once fully operational,
will produce approximately
200,000 carats of 'Grown
in the USA' lab-grown
diamonds annually. An
exclusive fashion jewelry collection featuring Lightbox labgrown
diamonds was recently launched on the Blue Nile
website, marking the first time in the online retailer's 21-year
history that it has sold lab-grown diamonds.
Forevermark launches three stores in
the country with Fortofino
Sachin Jain, MD, De Beers,
India and Sanjeev Saraf,
CMD, Fortofino
Forevermark, the diamond brand
from the De Beers Group
launched three more doors in
partnership with Fortofino in North
India. The brand saw the opening of the
8th Forevermark Boutique in Ludhiana
as well as the launch at the Fortofino
stores in the city of Jammu and Ambala.
The stores house exquisite range of
Forevermark collections that include
the Millemoi Collection, the Cornerstone collection, the
Twogether Collection, the Capricci Collection, Bridal Rings,
the Traditional Setting collection and the latest stackable
rings Tribute Collection.
Hyderabad-based Diamond store creates
Guinness Record breaking diamond ring
The New Guinness World Record for Most Diamonds
Set in One Ring was achieved in September, 2020
by Kotti Srikanth, Owner of The Diamond Store by
Chandubhai (A unit of Hallmark Jewellers) in Hyderabad,
India. The ring with a total of 7,801 natural diamonds is
set to go for auction online from 13th November to 22nd
November 2020. The registrations for bidding shall
commence from 2nd November 2020. The reserve price
has been kept at INR 78,01,000 (USD 104,692 approx) for
the bidders. The name of the ring is inspired from Brahma
Kamalam, a rare Flower found in the Himalayas. Diamond
is called as Vajra in Sanskrit and Telugu.
30 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 31

Round & About
ETC
Renowned Diamantaire
Prabodh Kirtilal Mehta passes away
Noted
businessman,
philanthropist, and pioneer
of the diamond community
in Belgium Prabodh Kirtilal Mehta
passed away on November 3rd, 2020,
in Antwerp, Belgium. He is survived
by his children Chetan and Neena, his
daughter-in-law Seema, son-in-law Sonu
Parikh, and grandchildren Esha, Ayush,
Naman-Devika, and Umang.
Shri Prabodh Mehta (21st August
1936) was born to Lilavati and Kirtilal
Mehta, as one of seven, three brothers
and three sisters. At 17, he moved to
Belgium and with his father, and founded
the diamond company Gembel together
in 1953. At the age of 18 he was left alone
in Belgium, and became the backbone of
the business, nurturing it to become one
of the largest in the world, with offices in
10 cities. He was a pioneer not only in
the diamond business, but in venturing
out of India. He was one of the first to set
up shop in Belgium and paved way for
a community of 1,500 members in the
country today. Countless families and
diamond businesses owe their beginnings
in Belgium to Prabodhbhai Mehta.
He has been bestowed the two highest
civilian awards by his Majesty the King
of Belgium, the “ORDE VAN LEOPOLD
II” in 1993 the “Albert II Koning Der
Belgen” in 1994 for his economical
and social contributions to the Belgian
society. He later moved to Dubai in 2008,
where he founded Pace Gems, as well as
continued his charitable endeavors.
In 1963, he married the love of
his life, Usha Mehta, and raised their
children, Chetan and Neena. In 1987,
the family lost Usha, but he stood strong,
acting as a rock for his children. His son
Chetan remains active in the diamond
community, as well as continues the
philanthropic work his father started.
Prabodhbhai was an active traveler, and
sportsman who enjoyed swimming and
exploring the world into his 80’s.
He was passionate about giving back
throughout his life, and towards the later
years focused solely on philanthropic
work. Prabodhbhai, his siblings and their
father founded the Lilavati Hospital in
Mumbai in honor of their beloved mother
and wife. Today, Lilavati is one of the
top 10 hospitals in India. The hospital
remains a charity, providing healthcare
at no cost to those who cannot afford
treatment. The Lilavati diagnostic center
in Palanpur was set up shortly after by
Prabobhbhai and his family. Additionally,
he has donated to medical causes such
as the medical equipment he provided
to Shrimad Rajchandra Mission. There
remain many scholarships in Belgium and
India that have been started by him such
as the Ayush and Esha Chetan Mehta
Scholarship at Menaben Manilal Mehta
English School. As a strict follower of
the principles of Jainism, he was a strong
backer of the many Jain institutions
around the world such as the Gurudev
Namramuni’s Parasdham Ashram.
Prabodh Kirtilal Mehta will forever
remain in our hearts.
32 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD

Cover Story
Cover Story
Surat Diamond Bourse
Surat Diamond Bourse
– A Beacon of Hope
As operations of Surat Diamond Bourse, a dream project, are in
full swing and the finish line is almost a few months away, the
industry affirms that both Surat and Mumbai together are poised
to make India the top diamond manufacturing country in the
world says Sugandha R
Surat is the cradle of India’s Diamond trade. It
was ranked 9th in India with a GDP of 2.60
lakh crore in the fiscal year 2016 ($40 billion
in 2016). Surat is home to more than six million people
and is one of the world’s fastest-growing cities. It is
famous for its diamond cutting and polishing and is also
called the Diamond City of India.
Surat diamond industry, has been fulfilling the
requirements, of more than 90 per cent of the polished
diamonds across the world. To overcome the setbacks
of easy approachability, and boosting profitability,
diamantaires from Surat have unanimously made an
effort to get the maximum gain for all the stakeholders.
They have come together to setup the Surat Diamond
Bourse (SDB). This initiative, as projected is expected
to bring in, a turnover of over Rs 2 Lakh Crores ($27
Billion Dollars approx.) annually, and all of them
together, will be the beneficiaries. It is a dreamcome-true
for diamantaires who have worked in dire
conditions in order to keep their ancestral vocation
alive and kicking.
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Buyers will be able to
examine how diamonds
are cut, polished and
how manufacturing
activities are conducted
– it will enhance
transparency in the
system. The trust of
major foreign buyers
can be retained.
Lifestyle of employees
will improve. Surat is
home to one of the best
hospitals in the country
- Kiran Hospital. It has
all the amenities. As
time passes, the city
will become the hub
for everything to do
with diamonds – from
import of roughs, to
finished products,
marketing and exports,
all will be conducted
smoothly from SDB.
vipul Sutariya,
Dharmanandan
Diamonds Pvt Ltd
As glorious and perfect, Indian
polished diamonds are, the glory of
this majestic project – Surat Diamond
Bourse will magnify the industry’s
efforts in spreading across borders, in
conjunction with advanced systems and
infrastructure. The design manifests,
a “Green Building Concept” built
with architectural expertise. It boasts
of Ecological Integrity. The project
has made it to the list of Top Five
commercial buildings in the world for
“2018 Cityscape Awards for Emerging
Markets”. At the same time, building a
global reputation, bestowing an at-home
factor, with a comfortable and safe work
environment for everyone.
This facility will be a boon for all
buyers, assuring transparency and cost
efficiency. With SDB standing in Surat,
where diamond cutting, polishing and
entire processing is done, it will aid in
minimizing operating costs, across the
supplier value chain. In turn, passing on
the value to buyers, in terms of sensible
pricing.
SDB: An overview
The Surat Diamond Bourse project,
was initially slated to be worth Rs 2,400
crore – today the investment has risen to
Rs 3,000 crores. It is being constructed
on 66 lakh square feet land and the
completion deadline has now been
shifted to March 2022. There will be 11
iconic towers of 11-storeys, housing more
than 4,400 diamond offices and creating
more than 1.50 lakh jobs. The SDB will
house facilities including safe deposit
vaults, a museum, customs offices,
money transfer desks, travel desk, retail
zone, auction house and a diamond club
apart from other facilities.
The city beckons
Surat is soon slated to become a
prominent smart city in India and
SDB has a lion’s share in making this
dream a reality. Says Vipul Sutariya of
Dharmanandan Diamonds Pvt Ltd, “A
lot of diamond traders and manufacturing
units are situated in Surat. SDB will save
their commute time and money.”
In the years to come, Surat will
undoubtedly become a leading diamond
hub in the world. “The SDB is a notfor-profit
organisation and is registered
under section 8 of the Companies Act,
2013 and formed for the establishment
and promotion of Diamond Bourse at
Surat. There is a metro park coming up
in the vicinity and the whole landscape
of Surat is changing rapidly,” informs
Padma Shri Mathurbhai Savani, core
committee member, SDB. The SDB
would be India’s second diamond trading
hub based at Surat, spread across 35.54
acres with availability of 66 lakh sq.ft.
built up area encompassing 4,400 offices
for national and international traders.
Surat is slated to see its best days
in the years to come, as the SDB
becomes functional in 2022. The
overall development of the city will be
monumental. “Surat will have to match
world class standards in terms of city
planning, schools, cafeterias, fivestar
hotels, residential property, civic
amenities and more. The governments
– both State and Central are doing their
best to make this dream a reality. The
shine of this diamond hub will surely
reach every corner of the world,” beams
SDB is a not for profit
organisation a company,
registered under section
8 of the Companies Act,
2013 and formed for
the establishment and
promotion of Diamond
Bourse at Surat. There
is a metro park coming
up in the vicinity and
the whole landscape
of Surat is changing
rapidly. It is part of the
Dream City project
Padma Shri
Mathurbhai Savani,
Core Committee
Member, SDB
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As time passes it will become the hub
for everything to do with diamonds
– from import of roughs, to finished
products, marketing and export all will
be conducted smoothly from SDB,”
explains Sutariya.
Today, despite the fact
that diamonds are
polished and cut in
Surat, all diamantaires
are dependent on
Mumbai for marketing
and export of these
diamonds. SDB,
primarily will save
time for diamantaires
– that time which
they can spend for
their business and/
or family.Surat
International Airport is
operational, as number
of flights increase
and connectivity of
Surat across the globe
improves, export will
not be difficult from
Surat
vallabhbhai Patel,
Chairman, SDB
Dinesh Navadiya, President, Southern
Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and
Industry (SGCCI)
Objectives of SDB
• To promote imports, exports and
trading of diamonds, gems and jewellery
from India.
• To provide state-of-the-art
infrastructure to the organizations
engaged in manufacturing and trading of
diamonds.
• To promote, advance, protect
and develop trade, commerce and
industry relating to gems and jewellery
including cutting, polishing and
processing.
• To establish and maintaining
an international trading center in India
to facilitate diamond, gems and jewellery
industry.
• To develop India as a modern
and sophisticated diamond, gems and
jewellery market in the world.
SDB will be cost effective in terms of
living standards as well. “Buyers will be
able to examine how diamonds are cut,
polished and how the manufacturing
activities are conducted – it will enhance
transparency. The trust of major foreign
buyers can be retained due to SDB.
Lifestyle of employees will improve,”
Sutariya adds.
The Government is very proactive
in clearances needed for setting up of
five-star hotels for international guests
who will soon flock to the city to buy
from the best diamantaires in the world.
Hyatt is under construction, Le Meridien
and Marriot are there. “Surat is home to
one of the best hospitals in the country -
Kiran Hospital. It has all the amenities.
A solution to many problems
SDB project was conceived by chairman
of Kiran Gems, Vallabhbhai Patel many
years ago. Being the world’s largest
diamond cutting and polishing centre,
the purpose of the project is to attract
buyers from across the world to Surat to
plan and execute business transactions
at one place. According to Patel, “Today,
despite the fact that diamonds are
polished and cut in Surat, all diamantaires
are dependent on Mumbai for marketing
and export of these diamonds. For every
shipment of diamonds – it is a road trip
of nearly nine hours duration (one-way –
so 18 hours) of round trip between Surat
and Mumbai. Even by flight, reaching
the domestic airport in Mumbai involves
navigating through at least an hour of
traffic. SDB, primarily will save time for
diamantaires – that time which they can
spend for their business and/or family.”
In Surat, within just 10-15 minutes a
diamond trader can reach SDB and begin
work. “Surat International Airport is
operational, as number of flights increase
and connectivity of Surat across the globe
improves, export will not be difficult
from Surat. Surat is a port city, just like
Mumbai and in fact, has less traffic than
Mumbai port and therefore is ideal for
expensive diamond consignments. It is
just a matter of time, before Surat truly
becomes the trade capital of India – as
far as diamonds are concerned,” informs
Patel.
Surat will have to match
world class standards in
terms of city planning,
schools, cafeterias,
five-star hotels,
residential property,
civic amenities and
more. The governments
– both State and Central
are doing their best
to make this dream
a reality. The shine
of this diamond hub
will surely reach
every corner of the
world. Bookings for
around 4500 offices
at upcoming Surat
Diamond Bourse
have already been
placed, and small
diamond businessmen
have already shifted
from Mumbai due to
halt in business in
Maharashtra during the
Covid-19 pandemic.
Dinesh Navadiya,
President, Southern
Gujarat Chamber
of Commerce and
Industry (SGCCI)
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renowned diamantaire.
Many organizations have a full-fledged
manufacturing unit in Surat and a sales
and marketing office in Mumbai. Such
organisations too have bought office
space in SDB as everyone was keen
to get into SDB. Surat is undoubtedly
the hub, when it comes to diamond
manufacturing and it is indeed important
to been in the same boat as rest of the
industry is sailing. One cannot work in
isolation, unity is strength.
Malad, Goregaon, Dahisar etc. and all
the operations happen from there. But
things are fast changing and all of these
big diamond units and offices are being
shifted to Surat.
Navadiya said that bookings for
around 4500 offices at upcoming Surat
Diamond Bourse have already been
placed, and small diamond businessmen
have already shifted from Mumbai due to
halt in business in Maharashtra during
the Covid-19 pandemic.
We have booked
125,000 sq feet space
in SDB. We will
begin interior work
in April 2021. The
entire administration,
management and
sales will be shifted
to SDB from Mumbai.
All our staff, around
1200 people from
Mumbai are willing to
shift to Surat. Life in
Surat is simple, with
lesser pollution and
traffic. In fact that will
save commute time
to and from work.
Work productivity will
increase and also bring
good work-life balance.
Expenses are lesser
but pay scale we are
offering is the same
Dinesh Lakhani,
Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd
“Rents are lower, traffic is lesser
and management of human and other
resources is easier in Surat,” explains
Ashish Dhorajiya, who looks after
administrative responsibilities at SDB.
The new bourse promises to overtake
Bharat Diamond Bourse, Mumbai in
no time.
Matter of economics
In this day and age of Covid 19-induced
austerity, economising business
expenditure is crucial, informs Patel. “In
Surat, real estate is cheaper, transport
is economical, facilities are truly worldclass
– for those kind of facilities in
Mumbai any businessman will have to
spend at least 25-30 percent more in
terms of all expenses. Plus, as living
costs are lesser, salary slabs are lower
than those in Mumbai – it is the safest
haven in these trying times for any trade
– especially for diamond trade.”
About 70 diamond companies from
Mumbai have shifted to Surat during
this coronavirus pandemic. The Surat
Diamond Bourse will be ready by the
year 2022 and till then most of the
diamond companies will shift to Surat
from Mumbai.
“We have booked 125,000 sq feet
space in SDB. We will begin interior work
in April 2021. The entire administration,
management and sales will be shifted
to SDB from Mumbai,” informs Dinesh
Lakhani, Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd. There are
five-star hotels in Surat near the campus
there are new five-star hotels coming up.
So international clients can visit SDB
anytime. “All our staff, around 1200
people from Mumbai are willing to shift
to Surat. Life in Surat is simple, with
lesser pollution and traffic. In fact that
will save commute to and from work,”
he adds. Work productivity will increase
and also bring good work-life balance.
Expenses are lesser and pay scale we
are offering is the same. So people are
happy to shift to Surat. There will be
a definite improvement in standard of
living of the people as well,” informs the
The two bourse dilemma
There is no competition here, because
Mumbai’s Bharat Diamond Bourse will
have business from other parts of the
country – and connectivity that Mumbai
offers with rest of the world, at least at
present is higher – therefore some exports
will still be conducted from Mumbai. As
trade expands – it needs two bourses and
both hold the promise of good fortune for
the whole industry. Work load is divided
well, and functioning improves. Even
during this time of financial crisis across
the world, Surat is standing still and the
people especially those in the diamond
industry are progressing even though,
taking tiny steps. Once the SDB is ready
and the diamond businesses shift to Surat
then the city is going to progress by leaps
and bounds. This is giving new hopes to
the real estate industry in the city which
is facing various issues as of now.
Right now 8 out of 10 diamonds are
manufactured in Surat but all of the
dealings and exports happen only from
Mumbai. Moreover, the corporate offices
of most of the diamond companies are
in Mumbai’s Bandra Kurla Complex
and small units are set up in Borivali,
SDB to become a diamond
hub too
SDB is all set to wean away from its
dependence on Mumbai, which is the
present hub for diamond export in India.
Adds Patel, “SDB will be fully
functional by March 2022. It offers best
of the facilities at 15-20 percent less
of costs in Mumbai. SDB will prove to
be great boon to the MSME sector and
promises the diamond industry a new
future. We have plans to setup residential
facilities for workers, employees of
SDB and all the 4,400 units housed in
the bourse. India’s diamond trade is
expanding rapidly, not just two bourses
– the rate at which trade is growing we
will need many more bourses and all
of these bourses will help place India
firmly on the global map, when it comes
to diamonds.”
All in all, a tremendous effort by
over 4200 diamantaires and an equally
huge number of planners and total
government support is making the dream
of Surat Diamond Bourse a reality. SDB –
promises to put India on the global map
when it comes to being the world’s largest
supplier of natural diamonds.
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Special Feature
Special Feature
Teal Sapphires
Emerald cut teal sapphire
from Gombe, Nigeria,
courtesy of Caleb B.
Quashen International.
WEar a pIece of The ocean
& thE ForeST aT once
Widely known as teal, this dark cyan-like hue was originally named after the
bluish-green stripe around the eyes of an Eurasian duck. In recent years,
the gem’s mesmerizing marine hue - reminiscent of serene oceans and the
mysterious green of our lands has redefined the jewellery market for unique
colored gemstones, capturing the imaginations of consumers especially amongst
the millennial and Gen-Z says Gemologist & Journalist Isabella Yan
Darlene Radiant Teal sapphire engagement ring by Capucinne.
The USA is amongst teal
sapphire’s most ardent
consumers, followed by
Australia, France, UK, and Asia.
Public awareness regarding teal
sapphires has grown in the last five
years and will continue to grow, says
Navneet Agarwal, Marketing Manager
of Navneet Gems & Minerals Limited
Co., a gem manufacturer based in
Bangkok.
like a Mermaid
Bold flashes of soft green mixed with a
kiss of blue, teal sapphires have earned
various trade names like “Mermaid”
sapphire. “Mermaid sapphires are a
subset of teal sapphires which have a
specific color ratio of 50% blue and
50% green. Mermaid sapphires are
the top color of teal sapphires,” says
Agarwal. He speculates that this 50-50
colour ratio of blue and green may have
the potential to scale up in prices like
a perfect padparadscha colour. “Like
padparadscha, each teal sapphire
appears to have a unique personality
reflected in its color variations.”
The main sources of teal sapphires
are Montana, Australia, Madagascar,
Ethiopia and Nigeria, all equally
important with differences in tone,
intensity and brightness. Teal
sapphires have been actively mined
for more than 100 years in Montana’s
Rock Creek and Potentate Mining is
among the industry’s premier local
producers. “Montana’s teal sapphires
have sporadically been on the
market since the late 1990s. When
we tested the market in 2014-2015,
there was general ambivalence and
dismissiveness about these unique
colors from the Rock Creek Sapphires
but we have seen a paradigm shift,”
says Warren Boyd of Potentate Mining.
He adds, “We could accredit this surge
in interest to the discovery of the first
teal sapphires in Montana.” According
to Agarwal, “the interest also piqued
when Australian teal sapphires were
discovered with their unique coloring,
Teal Montana Rock Creek Sapphires courtesy of Potentate Mining LLC. Gem cutting and photography by Jeffrey Hapeman - Earth’s Treasury.
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Special Feature
Special Feature
The main sources of teal sapphires are Montana, Australia,
Madagascar, Ethiopia and Nigeria, all equally important with
differences in tone, intensity and brightness
Rose cut teal sapphires from Gombe, Nigeria, courtesy of Caleb B. Quashen International
yielding both teal and only a few rare
mermaid sapphires of excellent quality.
The challenge lies in finding rare topgrade
teal or “Mermaid” sapphires of
superior clarity and cut. “We source
our teal sapphires from well-known
mines all over the world. The choice of
source depends on the quality and their
ethical sourcing.”
Most teal sapphires from Montana
and Australia are responsibly sourced
using mechanical mining to ensure
processes are closely regulated
throughout the supply chain. Whereas
those from Madagascar and Nigeria
are predominantly mined by artisanal
miners. “Its exquisite colour and
rising popularity is also helping them
establish new markets for this nontraditional,
unique color sapphire,”
says Agarwal.
Caleb B. Quashen International, a
gem supplier specialising in ethically
sourced obscure gems, helps to support
African artisanal miners. “We see
purpose and beauty in all the different
qualities of teal sapphires and pride
ourselves in using stones with eye
visible inclusions. We do not cherry
pick, instead we buy it all and that
means the full unearthing effort.” Caleb
adds that “every origin has the ability
to produce spectacular specimens and
the veteran eye can get pretty good at
noting the distinctions.”
Marisol Teal sapphire engagement ring by Valerie Madison.
Magnetic appeal
With the emergence of the alternative
bridal market, teal sapphires are
providing a new palette for designers
and consumers who gravitate towards
less popular gems in search of jewels
that define their individuality.
There are multiple reasons for
their appeal. First, their unique
colouring due to a perfect balance
of titanium and iron, makes them a
more personalised alternative to the
traditional blue sapphire engagement
ring. Second, compared to top blue
sapphires, teal sapphires are much
more reasonably priced. Third, besides
sharing a color with lagoon tourmaline
from Afghanistan, Teal sapphires have
greater hardness with 9 on the Mohs
scale and higher refractive index,
opening up great possibilities for the
engagement market. Slovenia-based
jewelry brand Capucinne, specializes
in alternative engagement rings is a
prolific employer of teal sapphires.
“We liked these stones from the start as
they were the perfect solution for those
looking for something blue but wanted
a modern and deeper undertone to the
classic blue sapphire.” Apart from
color, clarity, cut, the stone’s origin
due to consumer patriotism also plays
a role in their purchasing decisions.
Regarding Montana teal sapphires,
Boyd thinks “American consumers
are keen to purchase Americanmined
products that are recovered in
an environmentally responsible and
ethical manner.” Capucinne also says
“what matters most about origin to us is
that they are responsibly and ethically
sourced, whether they’re from Montana,
Australia, Nigeria or Madagascar.”
Teal sapphires offer something new in
the world of gemstones and the desire
to possess them will only intensify as
more gem and jewellery lovers become
enchanted by their beauty.
Top quality Australian teal sapphire of 6.11 carats, courtesy of Navneet Gems & Minerals
Ltd.co. Photograph by Arjuna Irsutti
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Special Feature
Special Feature
In February this year, The Fancy
Color Research Foundation
(FCRF) reported that in the
last decade, fancy colour diamonds
demonstrated a stable market price
with pink diamonds topping the charts,
with an increase in price by 116 per
cent, blue by 81 per cent and yellow
by 21 per cent. And then came Corona.
Like with other industries, the dreadful
pandemic brought the fancy colour
demand businesses across the world to a
grinding halt. So much so that the FCRF
for the first time since its inception, did
not publish its quarterly price index.
Unlike other recessions in the past, the
economic crisis driven by Coronavirus
Fancy Colour Diamonds
Poetic Diamonds
The closure of the world famous Argyle Mine, and luxury seekers
who are in constant search for rare, exceptional gemstones, have
made fancy colour diamonds to fetch stratospheric prices despite the
pandemic. Pink diamonds especially are witnessing an unusual spike
in demand, observes Vijetha Rangabashyam
is far severe, as it continues to create a
logistical nightmare for manufacturers
and retailers alike.
But every crisis brings with it
opportunities. As the world reels in
hardships caused by this pandemic, it
has become increasingly evident that
people who can afford luxury have
become mindful of what they purchase,
they want to acquire items that have
lasting value, and are incredibly rare.
While fancy colour diamonds were
always a symbol of aspiration, status
and luxury, the pandemic has led
people go after these priceless jewels
because of the intrinsic qualities that
make them ever so exceptional.
the matter of price
Prices for fancy colour in most shades
have remained stable, except for
yellow. “Price wise, yellows have
crashed nearly 30-40 per cent in the
last 3-4 years. After Covid19 however,
all prices have stabilized. There is a
price correction in blues as well. Prices
for pink are always rising.” says Denish
Shah of Ddiam, an internationally
recognized specialist and dealer of
natural fancy coloured diamonds. If
auctions are anything to go by, demand
for rare, exceptional fancy colour
diamonds has steadily increased,
despite the pandemic. “Well priced
fancy coloured diamonds fresh to the
Yellow diamond and
diamond necklace,
courtesy of Phillips
market are performing well at auction
overall and prices have remained
stable throughout the pandemic,” says
Graeme Thompson, Worldwide Head
of Jewellery, Phillips. Whether people
want to invest in colour diamonds or
not, they have been curious about their
properties and thanks to their rare
qualities, these gemstones are recession
proof. “Prices of rare coloured diamonds
haven’t been affected. They have been
insulated in a way. Rare coloured
diamonds have held their value through
any sort of uncertain economic climate
and financial volatility. Covid19 was
definitely frightening for everyone
globally at first, however, things are
looking better, everyone has adjusted
or are adjusting to this new normal. In
certain categories of colour diamonds,
prices have actually appreciated
during the pandemic, and the world’s
most sophisticated collectors are
continuously searching for more.
Pink diamond
ring, courtesy of
Phillips
It has worked as a lifeline to be a
stockist of such rare colour diamonds,
and possess such sought after gems,”
says Harsh Maheshwari of Kunming
Trading Co. Kunming acquired Argyle’s
Everlastings Collection comprising 64
lots of carefully curated diamonds,
weighing 211 carats last November.
In August, Christie’s dedicated a
first-ever virtual auction completely
dedicated to diamonds, where a plethora
of wide variety of rare colours including
pinks, grays, oranges, greens, browns
and yellows headlined the auction.
“Demand for coloured diamonds has
always been a significant part of our
business and we anticipate that will
remain steady for years to come,” says
Daphne Lingon, Head of Jewellery for
Christie’s Americas.
For the love of colour
The Summer Sparkle auction by
Christie’s saw the sale of a gorgeous
necklace by Graff suspending a 20.21
carat pear shaped yellow-brown
diamond, set in a fine white diamond
necklace, for $325,000. Amidst other
fancy colour diamond jewels, a beautiful
fancy yellow diamond 8.16cts ring and
a 1 ct fancy purple-pink diamond ring
were also prominent sales at the auction.
“We’ve found sustained interest in
coloured diamonds demonstrating
that even during these unprecedented
circumstances, clients continue to look
for rare stones. Buying diamonds at
auction has significant advantages as
we offer a large selection of important
and rare diamonds, colored diamonds
and diamond jewellery at competitive
Price wise, yellows
have crashed nearly
30-40 per cent in the
last 3-4 years. After
Covid19 however, all
prices have stabilized.
There is a price
correction in blues as
well. Prices for pink
are always rising.
Argyle is the best -- in
any colour, purple or
blue there has been
an increase in prices
– values have nearly
doubled
Denish Shah, Ddiam
A pink diamond rough stone
from Graff
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Special Feature
Special Feature
Prices of rare coloured
diamonds haven’t been
affected. They have been
insulated in a way. Rare
coloured diamonds have
held their value through
any sort of uncertain
economic climate and
financial volatility. In
certain categories of
colour diamonds, prices
have actually appreciated
during the pandemic,
and the world’s most
sophisticated collectors
are continuously
searching for more. It
has worked as a lifeline
to be a stockist of such
rare colour diamonds,
and possess such sought
after gems
Harsh Maheshwari,
Kunming Trading Co.
Yellow diamond earrings,
courtesy of Phillips
estimates, often from private collections
with interesting provenances and
histories,” adds Lingon.
“The main reason for a spike in
demand for coloured diamonds is as
a result of the well-publicized closure
of the Argyle mine in Australia. Not
only does the Argyle mine produce
95% of the world’s pink diamonds, it
also produces a large amount of fancy
coloured brown and yellow diamonds.
Should this supply dry up by next year,
which we expect it to, demand should
continue to rise, therefore increasing
prices further ,” adds Thompson.
Educated and passionate
connoisseurs of jewellery continue
to see exceptional value in these rare
diamonds in beautiful hues, as they are
not just one-of-a-kind wearable pieces
but also prove as worthy investments.
The demographic who like to invest in
these colour diamonds as an asset class,
especially pink, has only broadened
over the years.
the pink fever
Australia’s Argyle mine, which has
produced over 90 per cent of the world’s
most coveted pink diamonds for the
last 35 years closed its operations in
October. The mine that produced over
10,000 polished carats annually has run
dry and hence, prices for fancy colour
diamonds, especially those in pink are
expected to sky-rocket. Named after
Lake Argyle, the mine has produced
over 865 million carts of rough in the
most exceptional colours in the last four
decades – and the diamonds from this
mine became more sought after because
of how pure, strong and intensely hued
they were. “Argyle is the best -- in any
colour, purple or blue there has been an
Fancy colour diamond rings,
courtesy of Christie’s
increase in prices – values have nearly
doubled,” adds Shah.
With Argyle having come to a close,
jewellers are looking at other sources
for such exceptional diamonds. Russia’s
ALROSA has also produced some
exceptional colour diamonds in the
recent past, one of which includes the
14.83 carats Spirit of Rose the largest
vivid purple-pink diamond to appear
at auction, which is expected to go
under the hammer anywhere between
$23-38m. However, whether or not
such mines will produce diamonds
with the same potency in colour as
the Argyle mine remains a question.
The marketing efforts by Rio Tinto, to
promote these beautiful diamonds has
also been commendable, that collectors
from all over the world, look forward
to their by invite-only tender. These
sealed bids are held for 100 collectors.
Yellow and pink diamond ring,
courtesy of Phillips
Arnaud Soirat, Rio Tinto’s
chief executive of Copper &
Diamonds said “Fifty years
ago there were very few
people who believed there
were diamonds in Australia –
even fewer could have foreseen
how the Argyle story would
unfold. To arrive at this final chapter
has required vision, courage and
determination to overcome significant
challenges to enter new territory in
diamond exploration, mining and
marketing.
“Today Argyle’s influence stretches
into many spheres and over many
continents and I am very proud to
acknowledge all those people who
have contributed to the discovery
and development of the mine and
the production of some of the finest
diamonds the world has ever seen.”
There are no other consistent sources
for pink diamonds anywhere else in the
world, and even if such a source has
been discovered, it would take nearly
10 years for the mine to start operating.
a rise in appetite
Over the years we have seen celebrities
dazzle on red carpets with gorgeous
fancy colour diamond jewellery. From
Kate Winslet to Blake Lively and
Jennifer Lopez many celebrities have
endorsed fancy colour diamonds,
making it even more popular. Rio
Blue diamond
and diamond
ring, courtesy
of Christie’s
Necklace with multi
colour fancy diamonds,
courtesy of Phillips
Tinto also has a partnership with select
ateliers across the world, to which it
supplies some of its rarest fancy colour
diamonds. British jeweller Boodles,
one of Argyle’s select Atelier has been
consistently launching collections
redolent with beautiful fancy colour
diamonds after witnessing a spike in
demand in the last few years. “Pink
diamonds are always in demand,
particularly in Asia, however, yellows
are popular in the USA and brown
diamonds more so in Europe,” adds
Thompson. Many spectacular colour
diamonds like Empress Rose, Golden
Empress, Wittelsbach and more
have passed the hands of gemstone
connoisseur and jeweller Laurence
Graff. High jewellery houses like
Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Bulgari have
also used fancy colour diamonds in
their collections.
The concerted marketing effort by
auction houses, especially in the time
of pandemic has also made these stones
more sought after amidst collectors.
“During this period, we have rapidly
innovated, allowing our clients more
ways than ever to successfully transact
at Christie’s in our international
jewellery sales. Our teams have been
exceptional in transitioning to digital
and many of our established clients
We’ve found
sustained interest in
coloured diamonds
demonstrating that
even during these
unprecedented
circumstances, clients
continue to look for
rare stones. Buying
diamonds at auction has
significant advantages as
we offer a large selection
of important and rare
diamonds, coloured
diamonds and diamond
jewellery at competitive
estimates, often from
private collections with
interesting provenances
and histories
Daphne lingon, Head
of Jewellery, Christie’s,
Americas
Fancy deep brownish-orange
ring, courtesy of Christie’s
52 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 53

Special Feature
The main reason for
a spike in demand for
coloured diamonds is
as a result of the wellpublicized
closure of
the Argyle mine in
Australia. Not only
does the Argyle mine
produce 95% of the
world’s pink diamonds,
it also produces a
large amount of fancy
coloured brown and
yellow diamonds.
Should this supply dry
up by next year, which
we expect it to, demand
should continue to rise,
therefore increasing
prices further
Graeme thompson,
Worldwide Head of
Jewellery, Phillips
Pear shape pink diamond
from Graff
Fancy colour diamond,
courtesy of Ddiam
as well as new buyers have purchased
sight-unseen. We are proud to say
that Christie’s Jewellery Department
has been the market leader for 26
consecutive years. Our commitment to
excellence combined with our strong
personal relationships has built our
reputation, which in turn has created
trust; the most important factor for
clients when buying online. Technology
has also played a large part as photo
quality has risen and capabilities such
as a 3D-view or video have enhanced
how objects can be viewed virtually,”
says Lingon.
Collectors have had more time to think
and reflect on what kind of jewellery
they want to invest in. “The year has
progressed, we have seen increased
demand for coloured diamonds, so we
made a concerted effort to include a
fantastic collection of fancy coloured
diamonds in our November sale,” said
Thompson. The fact that people have
been restricted from travelling and
investing in other types of luxury that
may not promise any returns have driven
more seekers of luxury towards fancy
colour diamonds. “The world’s elite
and diamond aficionados have had a lot
of time to browse through rare coloured
diamonds and they haven’t spent
too much on other types of luxuries.
Auctions of coloured diamonds have
been quite interesting. Coloured
diamonds are sort of a celebrity when
it comes to auctions especially with
pinks and blues. Each polished stone
is beyond a work of art, the allure and
perpetual value associated makes fancy
coloured diamonds unparalleled,” says
Maheshwari.
Who, what, where?
Collectors of such fancy colour
diamonds are mostly seen in Australia,
U.S., Asian countries like Hong Kong,
China and Singapore as well as parts
of Europe. “Demand from the U.S.
is constant. Chinese markets have
shutdown, however, we cater to the
Chinese market as demand is high. We
have reasonable demand from all over,
Singapore, Hong Kong and Europe.
In India, currently demand for yellow
diamonds is high. Indian retailers aren’t
confident of demand so they don’t want
to invest for a single pair of earrings
etc. But few years down the line as
they will realise that there is demand in
Indian market for coloured diamonds –
local demand too will increase,” adds
Shah. India, especially in the South
is more about clarity when it comes to
diamonds and this mindset has been
ingrained in their psyche. “In India,
people have been buying jewellery as a
tradition. Indian customers are attuned
with their diamonds, precious and
other semi-precious stones, but only a
few understand the rarity, uniqueness
and finite nature of such diamonds.
Education and awareness leads to
confidence in the consumers, which is
lacking in India. The potential is there,
and there will come a time where India
will become a major market for coloured
diamonds,” adds Maheshwari.
54 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD

Show RepoRt
Show RepoRt
I am delighted the best of technology has been used to
showcase the most beautiful pieces of art. The whole virtual
experience is so real, life like and easy to use, that one feels
like he or she is touching an actual piece of jewellery
piyush Goyal, Minister of Commerce & Industry and Railways
IIJS Virtual 2020
IIJS VIRTUAL - A
PROMISING PLATFORM
The jewellery world that was bereft of activity for almost 6 months saw some
respite in the five-day virtual show which boasted of a great, easy-to-use interface
India International Jewellery Show
(IIJS) Virtual 2020, powered by
GIA, organized by the Gem and
Jewellery Export Promotion Council of
India (GJEPC), concluded on October
16, 2020. The five-day jewellery
extravaganza which commenced on
October 12, 2020, has been a one-of-akind
for all exhibitors and visitors.
IIJS Virtual 2020 was promoted
extensively across the world. Over 50
National and International web road
shows, 450+ exhibitor training sessions,
and 100+ buyer tutorial sessions were
conducted before the show.
It is estimated that approx. Rs. 1000
crore (USD 137 million) business
transacted at IIJS Virtual.
Commenting on the success of
the show, Colin Shah, Chairman,
GJEPC said, “IIJS Virtual has been
nothing short of miraculous. We have
witnessed IIJS bring the industry out
from a pandemic paralysis -- that, too,
virtually! The industry realised that one
needs to change along with time and
for business sustainability, extensive
usage of digital was the need of the
hour. GJEPC has done its bit to provide
necessary platform so that the export
continues. The Industry today has seen
a very robust digital disruption and
I’m certain that digital mode of doing
business is the future for the industry.”
Vipul Shah, Vice Chairman, GJEPC,
said, “IIJS Virtual 2020 has stimulated
business for the sector. Buyers from
All of us are facing
difficulties and this
adversity has brought us
together on this virtual
platform. Jewellery is a
common thread running
through all states across
India – it connects
all. Mumbai is India’s
number one centre for
G & J trading. We intend
to make an Aabhushan
Park, and a world class
training institute here in
order to empower young
sons of the soil to take up
employment in the G & J
industry
Uddhav thackeray, CM,
Maharashtra
The Council has been extremely proactive in various initiatives
in the last two quarters, in the post lockdown time. We have been
working closely with the government both at the Centre and State.
Mumbai was allowed to open export units in May – as Seepz and
BDB are important hubs of export activities in India, we are grateful
to the State for this timely support
Colin Shah, Chairman, GJEPC
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Show RepoRt
Show RepoRt
IIJS Virtual 2020 has
stimulated business
for the sector. Buyers
from across the world
were looking for a
platform to source
gem and jewellery for
the upcoming festive
season, and we are
happy that GJEPC has
been able to create
a platform for all to
meet, network and do
business in a safe and
secured manner
Vipul Shah, Vice
Chairman, GJEPC
across the world were looking for a
platform to source gem and jewellery
for the upcoming festive season, and
we are happy that GJEPC has been
able to create a platform for all to meet,
network and do business in a safe and
secured manner.”
The Guests of Honour for the
inaugural ceremony were Chief Minister
of Maharashtra Uddhav Thackeray
and Union Minister of Commerce &
Industry and Railways, Piyush Goyal.
During the inaugural speech, Uddhav
Thackeray expressed his aim to make
Maharashtra the world’s leading center
for diamond and jewellery trade,
whereas Piyush Goyal complimented
on the resilience shown by the gems
and jewellery sector during the ongoing
pandemic.
Shailesh Sangani, Convener, National
Exhibitions, GJEPC, said, “Meeting
face-to-face at physical shows and
expositions is very important and must
happen at least once or twice a year, but
virtual shows are going to be the future,
purely because of the ease in doing
business from the comfort of our own
offices and homes.”
Sabyasachi Ray, Executive Director,
GJEPC, said, “We realised that we
would have to train buyers how to
conduct business on IIJS Virtual and
serviced 8,000 visitors by assigning
60 people, each handling around 150
people on WhatsApp. In just 40 days,
we conducted 40 road shows, tying
up with different associations for
training sessions. We created modules
and training videos and gradually the
ramping up happened across India.”
For visitor registration, the GJEPC
turned to its ready, authenticated
database of 40,000 IIJS visitors through
constant follow-ups via WhatsApp
calls, emailers, social media and
conducted tutorial meetings on Zoom.
Local association heads were roped in
to propagate the show to their members
and similar online promotions were
done for international visitors.
The herculean efforts put in by
the GJEPC has led to the digital
transformation of the Indian gem and
jewellery industry. And the ready
acceptance by exhibitors and visitors
alike in embracing the new digital
IIJS Virtual could have been much better. There wasn’t any pre-event
coverage or advertising in BDB -- it should have been advertised well
in order to really increase visitors. The event was quite lukewarm.
Technology wasn’t very supportive at the event and returns on
investment were just about decent. All in all, it wasn’t as great an event.
The loose diamond section didn’t have proper recognition
priyal Shankar, Shivam Jewels
future shows the industry’s willingness
to adapt to new ways of doing business
and collectively face the challenges
head on and emerge successful.
It is a very practical
solution in this time of
social distancing. Quite
helpful to have a platform
like this. I felt the
video quality was good,
considering it was the
first time, we managed
to inspect the jewellery
properly
MAheSh JAGwANI,
Mahesh Notandass Fine
Jewellery, Mumbai
IIJS Virtual was good, the
goods could be inspected
well. Small items
are easier to gauge –
however, in case of heavy
antiques it is somewhat
difficult to check the
quality of stones used,
the real karigari and
shine aren’t that visible. I
have attended a few
meetings, got
manufacturers to show
me what I needed
SUReNDRA VeRMA,
Kuldip Sons Jewellers,
Jharkand
Planning, execution and education are the three key cornerstones
of the show’s success. Meeting face-to-face at physical shows and
expositions is very important and must happen at least once or
twice a year, but virtual shows are going to be the future, purely
because of the ease in doing business from the comfort of our
own offices and homes
Shailesh Sangani, GJEPC, National Exhibitions Convenor
Of all the Virtual Shows that have happened during this pandemic,
IIJS Virtual was a promising one. The Council has really worked hard
to connect and get buyers from remote cities of India which otherwise
would have been difficult to connect with. Keeping the upcoming festive
season in mind we feel that the timing for the IIJS Virtual is apt. We
positively look forward to meet more visitors in the coming days
Jinesh Shah, Sr Sale Executive, Venus Jewel
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In ConversatIon
In ConversatIon
Rajesh R. Shah – Partner, Venus Jewel
51 Years of Creating
Brilliance
Innovation, ethics and embracing technology have been the cornerstones of
Venus Jewel’s success. Rajesh R. Shah – Partner, Venus Jewel, talks to Diamond
World about the several milestones the company has achieved through the
years, employee welfare, the future of the diamond industry and more
Today, Venus Jewel is one of
the biggest exporters of cut and
polished diamonds, standing as an
example to other companies in the
industry – what is the secret behind
your empire’s success?
The secret ingredient of our success
has been our constant focus on product
quality and customer trust. We follow
responsive manufacturing which allows
us to deliver exactly what our customers
need. We constantly use technology as
an enabler to devise seamless customer
experience.
Premium products are achieved due
to stringent internal quality checks
and intelligent systems devised
meticulously. More than 50 years of
delivering quality products has resulted
in gaining customers’ trust.
Venus Jewel began its journey in
1969 – what according to you has
been some of the milestones the
company achieved along the way?
Venus Jewel has always been a pioneer
in the diamond industry since its
inception in 1969. We have been
pioneers of many revolutionary changes
of the industry:
• In the 1970’s we began the
performance linked remuneration to
incentivize production of premium
quality diamonds. We led the way in
pay standards of the industry.
• In the 80s we were the first
ones to introduce computers to
streamline diamond business
operations. A major milestone in the
80s was that Venus was the first Indian
company to begin manufacturing of
diamonds above 2 carats. Until then,
India was just considered as a country
manufacturing small and low quality
diamonds.Today our country is the
global hub for diamond manufacturing
and is well-known to adopt latest
technology.
• We launched our B2B website
www.venusjewel.com in 1997, for
selling diamonds online. This website
eliminated the need to create sales
offices around the world. During this
period we also introduced the concept
of “single piece per packet” and
providing detailed diamond information
online through in-house developed
Venus Grading System® (VGS®),
allowing customers to be confident in
buying online from us.
• In 2002, we shifted to a new
centrally air-conditioned 8 storied
building spread over 260,000 sq. ft.
that sits upon a 6.5 acre plot in Surat.
This was then the first-of-its-kind
factory in the industry. This building
provides an excellent work environment
and a state-of-the-art facility for the
employees to flourish and brings entire
manufacturing operations under one
roof. Over the years we have achieved
the reputation of being one of the most
trusted & preferred diamond supplier
through our transparent business
practices.
• We continue aspiring to
innovate and achieve more milestones
through our foresight, bold conviction
and in-depth R&D with the help of new
technology, innovations and processes.
Our legacy of 50 years continues to
stand strong through these turbulent
times as well.
Premium
products are
achieved due to
stringent internal
quality checks
and intelligent
systems devised
meticulously.
More than
50 years of
delivering
quality products
has resulted
in gaining
customers’ trust
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In ConversatIon
In ConversatIon
Employee welfare and safety is of great importance
to us. Even during global crisis and recessions, Venus
has always maintained its full workforce. We believe in
having an employee friendly culture
As an industry, the way forward is to invest in R&D to
enhance the beauty of diamonds. Along with this,
one needs to be a responsible member of the industry and
the world in general by adopting sustainable measures
For a legacy brand such as
yours, what are the key pillars or
principles the company follows till
date?
The fundamental principles of ethics,
transparency, and trust are the heart
of the organization. These aspects give
immense confidence to our customers
in doing business with us. At every
stage beginning from procurement of
rough, manufacturing, sales, employee
welfare we believe in being sustainable
and just. Everyone associated with the
company appreciates and know us for
these principles which are the central
ethos.
You are also one of the first
diamond companies to go fully
digital – in terms having a robust
e-commerce platform. How has
adopting technology helped you
stay ahead of the curve, especially
in these trying times?
Being an early believer and adopter of
technology, helped us in manifesting
the digitalization of processes,
customer interactions and transactions.
The companies which rode the wave of
digital presence and not just physical
selling had an advantage during these
turbulent times.
Since this has always been the way we
do business, it was easier for us to stay
connected, do business and continue
to be engaged with our customers. We
were able to support our customers’
needs even during trying times to the
best of our abilities.
Your employees have remained
core strength of your company
– how do you support and take
care of the well-being of your
employees?
Our employees are an integral part of
the company’s success and well-being.
Employee welfare and safety is of great
importance to us. Even during global
crisis and recessions, Venus has always
maintained its full workforce. We
believe in having an employee friendly
culture. Along with the mandatory
benefits we also provide Medical
Insurance, A superannuation fund,
Regulated 8 hour work shifts, Company
provided Lunch, 2 set of Holidays per
year and highest pay standards in the
industry. With an attrition rate under
4% every year, we know that just like
us, our employees too consider us as
family. All our employees responsibly
and happily uphold the Venus brand
values and collectively take the
company forward.
What are your mantras to tide
through tough times – like now,
during the pandemic?
Venus Jewel has always had a steady
financial position due to internal policy
of utilizing our own finances. This
substantially decreases pressure of
bank debts. Also, adopting technology
well ahead of the times has helped us to
be a step ahead in facing such difficult
times as our inventory remained
available online for our customers.
Due to the trust the customers have in
us, they are able to comfortably make
their online buying decisions.One of
the most important factors has been the
long term relationships that we have
maintained with all those associated
with us ensuring not just happy and
satisfied employees, or a steady supply
of rough, but also loyal customers.
What do you feel about the state of
the Indian diamond industry today
– and what is your word of advice
for fellow entrepreneurs?
India continues to have the most
skilled artisans and craftsmen who
are globally acclaimed. 9 out of 11
diamonds are still cut and polished in
India. In the current scenario as retail
shops are reopening and the industry
is recovering from the pandemic,
people continue to be willing to invest
in diamonds. The upcoming wedding
and festive seasons will also boost the
demand indicating a positive sign for
the diamond industry. A word of advice
for entrepreneurs would be to focus on
their core competency. Try to get least
tied into long credits as they can eat
up cash flow. Also, avoid speculative
buying and manufacturing as far as
possible.
What do you believe is the future
of the diamond industry – your
advice to current generation
entrepreneurs to make this
industry stronger?
The future of the diamond industry
looks bright as it is an industry with a
timeless product. A diamond is and will
always be a symbol of undying love and
passion. It represents a bond that lasts
forever. The lack of discovery of new
mines and depleting output of existing
mines will make natural diamonds
rarer and more precious in the future.
Currently, the manufacturing has
reduced and so have the inventory
levels. This situation might increase
the prices for polished diamonds in the
near future. As an industry, the way
forward is to invest in R&D to enhance
the beauty of diamonds. Along with this,
one needs to be a responsible member
of the industry and the world in general
by adopting sustainable measures and
contributing to social good up to their
capacity. One should always look to
add value in whatever they do.
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Special Feature
Leaf inspired bracelet curated
in rose gold with diamonds by
Aisshpra Gems and Jewels
Diamond studs, Mehta & Sons
Special Feature
Diamond Jewellery Promotion
Clinch the Deal with
Emotion & Aspiration!
As we are amidst festive and bridal seasons, retailers affirm that
demand for diamonds is on an increase and they are capitalising on
the situation with innovative offers and playing on the emotional and
aspirational sentiments of the customers says Sugandha R
play on sentiment
“Diamonds are sold on pure
sentiment. The youth, especially
whether it is the first jewellery to be
bought from their savings or earnings
or a gift for a person they love –
they will invariably go in for buying
diamonds,” explains Anil Kataria,
DP Jewellers, Indore. Diamonds also
hold immense aspirational value for a
young working woman who aims to buy
a pair of diamond earrings. She will
plan her purchase maybe for her own
birthday or a festival; she will save up
for the occasion and rather than buying
an expensive mobile phone which
she knows has no investment value
at all, she will buy a pair of diamond
earrings from her trusted jeweller. “It
has been observed that young girls
often gift themselves a nice pair of
earrings for festivals. When it comes
to gifting a loved one, youngsters these
days will buy diamond rings,” says
Vipin Aggarwal, of Mussaddi Lal Hari
Kishan Dass Jewellers, Ambala Cantt,
Haryana.
Business owners can focus on working
around emotional value. Explains
Ishu Datwani of Anmol Jewellers
Mumbai, “Buying diamonds is always a
sentimental decision. It may be gifting
a beloved daughter on her wedding
day, or buying for your sister or wife it
always plays around human emotions.
Diamonds are bought because of their
sentimental value – they express love
like no other gift does.”
Keep a record of birthdays,
anniversaries and other special
occasions of your clients and their
families. It makes a difference to send
them a message with best wishes for
the day and a special offer on diamond
jewellery especially for them on their
special day. “This is the personal touch
that jewellers should add,” explains A
Shivaram, founder of Retailgurukul.
Diamonds are sold
on pure sentiment.
Youngsters, especially
whether it is the first
jewellery to be bought
from their savings or
earnings or a gift for
a person they love –
they will invariably
go in for diamonds.
Diamonds are wellknown
for bestowing
the buyer with
increased prosperity,
peace and wellbeing so
informing the buyers
of this well-believed
trait of a diamond
quite often clinches
the deal
anil Kataria,
DP Jewellers, Indore
With unstable gold prices,
diamonds are within the
reach of the upwardly
mobile Indian middle class buyers and
many people even from tier II and tier
III cities and towns are coming forward
to buy diamond jewellery. Their thirst
for owning diamond rings, earrings
and sets is rapidly increasing. Says
Vastupal Ranka of Ranka Jewellers,
Pune, “Diamonds have an aspiration
value, if a store owner taps into this
sentiment of a buyer – affordability
is the only thing to be ensured for
buying diamond jewellery.” Today,
diamond jewellery is within the reach
of an average middle class buyer. It will
make him/her proud of the fact that s/
he owns diamond jewellery and over
and above that a sense of gratification
– that s/he has arrived at a stage in life
where s/he can afford to buy and flaunt
the most precious stone in the world.
What counts is to make buyers aware of the fact that
diamonds are going to last them way beyond their lifetime
and can easily become heirloom pieces. We have sold
diamond sets worth more than Rs 25 lakhs post lockdown
Vipin aggarwal, Mussaddi Lal Hari Kishan Dass Jewellers,
Ambala Cantt, Haryana
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Special Feature
Business owners can focus on working around emotional value. Buying
diamonds is always a sentimental decision. It may be gifting a beloved
daughter on her wedding day, or buying for your sister or wife it always
plays around human emotions. Diamonds are bought because of their
sentimental value – they express love like no other gift does.
ishu Datwani, Anmol Jewellers, Mumbai
Special Feature
Offers attract potential diamond buyers. When you give these
clients some really good pieces – they become your ambassadors
– who will vouch for the quality of the jewellery and the
diamonds you sell. We have had many buyers buying large sets
of diamond jewellery during special offers
pratap Kamath, Abaran Timeless, Bengaluru
Making the customer feel special on
his or her special day means a lot – it
establishes a connect and precious
stones like diamonds are sold on this
connect. “Diamonds signify trust
and transparency. Add an interesting
verse or quotation to extol the value
of diamonds and sentiments they
signify – it will make many clients go
in for purchase of diamonds,” adds the
marketing guru.
We have organized an
exhibition soon after
Diwali within our store –
exclusively showcasing
high end and high
carat point diamonds
sets. Alongside we will
showcase affordable
– daily wear diamond
pieces as well and that
I believe will push sales
of diamonds.
pankaj Seth,
Durga Das Seth
Jewellers, Amritsar
always a good investment
“Many Indians look for returns on
investment when it comes to buying
gold, however, when it comes to buying
diamond jewellery, people are investing
in relationships. Diamonds are bought
as a gift to express love and affection
towards a person,” says Vijay Khanna of
Khanna Jewellers, Delhi. Diamonds are
forever and so is the passion and love
between two individuals – that is the
essence of gifting a diamond jewellery.
Value of a diamond is way beyond its
monetary value – this is the way it
needs to be sold to the customer. Often
buyers have a competition amongst
themselves – as to which family owns
the biggest diamond set, etc retailers
may play on this competition as well.
“What counts is to make buyers aware
of the fact that diamonds are going to
last them way beyond their lifetime and
can easily become heirloom pieces,”
explains Vipin Aggarwal.
In India buying diamonds – has
a heritage and is looked upon as
status symbol as well. Explains
Pratap Kamath, of Abaran Timeless,
Bengaluru “We have had many buyers
buying large sets of diamond jewellery
during special offers. Post pandemic
we saw many families come forward
to buy diamond jewellery – as we had
a special offer on diamond jewellery.
Diamonds are a way to announce to
the world that yes, you have attained a
certain level of affluence and harmony
in life. It is a powerful sentiment – and
a very gratifying one.”
Offers and exhibitions will work
“We have organized an exhibition
soon after Diwali within our store
– exclusively showcasing high end
and high carat point diamonds sets.
Alongside we will showcase affordable
– daily wear diamond pieces as well
and that I believe will push sales of
diamonds,” explains Pankaj Seth of
Durga Das Seth Jewellers, Amritsar.
The people of Punjab love to splurge
during festivals and they celebrate
Diwali for nearly a whole month – not
just four days. It is this festive mood
that retailers can cash in on and make
the most of it. They can put up shows,
offers and exhibitions soon after Diwali
or even in the first week of December,
as the wedding season will be on and
last minute impulsive buying can take
place.
Bracelet by
ANMOL crafted
in 18 K rose gold
and set with
round brilliant
diamonds
Diamond studs with pearls,
Narayan Jewellers
Retailers need to advertise
strategically and announce their offers
and exhibitions through as many
media outlets as they can. Offers really
work.“We have announced diamond
jewellery offer at Rs 45000 per carat,
which is rare, as no store owner
announces the price of diamonds per
carat and these diamonds are certified
by an external lab. We also have a good
buy back policy which assures buyers
that they are getting their money’s
worth,” explains Ranka.
“Once you give these clients some
really good pieces – they become
Earrings crafted in 18k rose gold studded
with fine-cut by Shobha Shringar Jewellers
your ambassadors – who will vouch
for the quality of the jewellery and
the diamonds you sell,” adds Kamath.
That is why offers and exhibitions must
be put up throughout the year. They
must be announced over the internet
and all forms of advertising channels
effectively.
in-house marketing should be
sincere and focused
“I am a supporter of in-house
marketing. Once a buyer walks into
the showroom s/he has announced the
intention to buy jewellery – now it is
the duty of the sales staff to take over
and focus on what the customer wants –
show him or her the pieces s/he would be
most interested in buying. All customers
want good quality diamond jewellery
at affordable prices, so show them the
same, and you can convert them into
diamond buying customers,” explains
Vikram Talwar of Talwarsons Jewellers,
Chandigarh. Often extravagant spends
on outdoor advertising may not yield
Diamond tennis bracelet, Entice
We have announced
diamond jewellery
offer at Rs 45000 per
carat, which is rare,
as no store owner
announces the price
of diamonds per carat
and these diamonds
are certified by an
external lab. We also
have a good buy back
policy which assures
buyers that they are
getting their money’s
worth
Vastupal ranka,
Ranka Jewellers, Pune
66 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 67

Special Feature
Making the customer feel special on his or her special day means a
lot – it establishes a connect and precious stones like diamonds are
sold on this connect. Diamonds signify trust and transparency. Add
an interesting verse or quotation to extol the value of diamonds
and sentiments they signify – it will make many clients go in for
purchase of diamonds.
a Shivaram, Founder, Retailgurukul
I am a supporter of
in-house marketing.
Once a buyer walks
into the showroom s/
he has announced
the intention to buy
jewellery – now it is
the duty of the sales
staff to take over and
focus on what the
customer wants – show
him or her the pieces
s/he would be most
interested in buying.
All customers want
good quality diamond
jewellery at affordable
prices, so show them
the same and you
can convert them
to diamond buying
customers
Vikram talwar,
Talwarsons Jewellers,
Chandigarh
as much as in-house focused selling
can. It is important to never overlook
the potential of a convincing sales
staff especially while selling diamond
jewellery. It helps jewellers to also build
a rapport with the client – who then
believes that “this jeweller knows me,
knows my taste.” Diamonds represent
transparency and clarity – which is a
virtue that every sales staff must be
able to essay during a sales pitch.
astro-talk also works
Indians are by far ‘believers’ and
they believe in astrology – this may not
count as an opening statement in a sales
pitch for sale of diamonds – but as part
of conversation if a sales person says
‘Diamonds are known to bring peace
and prosperity in the family’ the buyer’s
initial hesitation often transforms into
buying diamonds. “We have seen
buyers smile and feel happy when they
hear that diamonds will affect their lives
positively – they like to hear positive
words about their purchase and this
works in them coming back to buy more
of diamond pieces,” explains Ranka.
According to Kataria – Diamonds are
well-known for bestowing the buyer
with increased prosperity, peace and
wellbeing so informing the buyers of
this well-believed trait of a diamond
quite often clinches the deal.
Sums up A Shivaram, “Diamonds
Many Indians look for
return on investment
when it comes to buying
gold jewellery, However,
when it comes to buy
Diamond jewellery
one is investing in a
relationship with the
person they love and
has decided to prove
this love in the form of a
diamond piece as a gift
Vijay Khanna,
Khanna Jewellers, Delhi
aren’t something buyers will buy
without adequate reckoning. They
will think and plan their purchase
especially when they want to buy large
sets, necklaces and other expensive
diamond jewellery so a wise retailer will
constantly send updates over whatsapp
or other social media to potential
clients to attract their attention to the
brand and inform them of special offers
or exhibitions, et al.”
68 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD

The Rock Talk
Rose Matrimonio necklace with
purplish pink cushion cut 13.78ct
sapphire from Romeo Juliet
collection, Van Cleef & Arpels
The Rock Talk
Cushion-cut emerald and pavé diamond halo bracelet, Blue Nile
Cushion halo earrings,
Fascinating Diamonds
Cushion Cut
The Best cut
Also known as old mine cut,
cushion cut diamonds that
gracefully combine square
cut with rounded corners,
like a pillow, are making a full
comeback amidst consumers
Heart locket with blue enamel,
white diamonds, iolite and
amethyst in gold, Holly Dyment
Dawn evil eye
pendant, Ileana
Makri
Evil Eye
18-karat gold
multi-stone
necklace,
Jennifer Myer
Green eye ring featuring vibrant
enamel work, diamonds and
coloured stones, Holly Dyment
Antique coral
eye cross
drop earrings,
Grainne
Morton
One of a kind 20k rose gold and
cushion cut diamond gypsy ring,
Stephen Russel
Certified 3.10ct untreated
padparadscha sapphire cushion cut
cluster ring, David Jerome
Les Merveilles ring,
Boghossian
18K rose gold double halo
cushion diamond earrings,
Long’s Jewelers
True engagement ring with a
cushion-cut yellow diamond in
18k yellow gold, Tiffany & Co
Insight
necklace, Lulu
Frost
Evil eye amethyst and tsavorite
earrings, Sylvie Corbelin
Evil Eye
a Talisman
of hope
Used as a symbol
in jewellery for
centuries, the evil
eye motif has been
reinterpreted in
infinite ways, playful,
mysterious and
positive, something
people could use a lot
given the times
Necklace featuring
a blue enamelled
eye and black
diamonds, Lito Tu
Es Partout
Cushion cut earrings featuring
20.81 carats of fancy Intense
Yellow diamonds, Graff
Cushion cut royal blue clear quartz
over lapis with diamond earrings,
Diamond & Design
Cushion-cut pink tourmaline
punch ring, David Webb
Handmade ring showcasing a
stunning 55.50-carat cushion-cut
amethyst stone, David Webb
Evil Eye woven cord,
diamond and sapphire
bracelet, Diane Kordas
Halo cushion cut diamond
stud earrings 14k white
gold (3.10ct), Allurez
Cushion-cut aquamatine
& yellow diamond cluster
ring, Cry for the Moon
70 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
Cushion-cut yellow diamond, sapphire and diamond
micro pavé engagement rings, Harry Winston
Emerald & aquamarine
ring, Sylvie Corbelin
Evil eye ring, Lydia Courielle
18K yellow gold, white
diamond and turquoise evil
eye ring, Suzanne Kalan
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 71

The Rock Talk
Ombre sapphire ring, Max’s
Gold-tone
drama
ombré pavé
palm leaf
necklace,
Vince
Camuto
Ombre amethyst
and sapphire
necklace, Nicole
Landaw
14K gold pink
sapphire 1.02 carats
diamonds .07ct ombre
necklace, Shain
Leyton Jewelry
Yemaya necklace,
Daniela Villegas
Ombre blue sapphire
tripple loop necklace,
Sandy Leong
The Rock Talk
Ombre
pink white
pearl drop
earrings,
Yoko
London
18kt yellow gold California ombre sapphire
and natural zircon ring, Emily Wheeler
Ombré Effect
light & Dark
There is something so
aesthetically gratifying about
looking at the gradation of a
colour from lightest, light, dark
and darkest, come to be known
as the ombré effect. Jewellers
have used the ombré sequence
to highlight the beauty of
gemstones and their variegated
colours
Women’s metallic 18k
yellow gold yellow
ombre diamond drop
earrings, Plevé
18kt yellow gold Ombré band set with multishade oval blue
sapphires, Paolo Costagli
14 ct strawberry gold layer
cake ring, Le Vian
Colour of my dreams opal and
ombre sapphire ring, Nixin Jewelry
Necklace in platinum
with sapphires,
aquamarines, blue
tourmalines and
blue cuprian elbaite
tourmalines, over 81 total
carats, and diamonds,
over 8 total carats,
Tiffany & Co.
Ombré sapphires, fading from yellow to
magenta to purple, is set into an eyecatching
shield band, Polly Wales
Ombre pave sonic ear cuffs, Lynn Ban
14K gold and pink topaz ombre emerald
cut eternity band, Salt Fine Jewelry
Ombre gold,
tourmaline,
sapphire
& peridots
ring,
Daniela
Villegas
Ombré blue topaz drop earrings in
14k white gold, Bahdos
Ombre
sapphire
18k gold
earrings,
Lauren
Harper
Women’s pink fuchsia
ombre waterfall earrings,
Anabela Chan
18K white gold,
ombre sapphire and
diamond ring, Lueur
Jewelry
Pair of rose gold, yellow and orange
sapphire and diamond hoop pendantearrings,
Doyle Auctions
Pom Pom ring with a pavé of spinels,
tourmalines and sapphires arranged
in an ombre sequence, Pomellato
Mogra yellow sapphire swirl ombre
earrings, Ananya
72 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 73

Company FoCus
Company FoCus
Ankit Gems
Beating the Odds – Ankit
Gems a Sparkling Star
Ankit Gems Pvt Ltd is a shining example of a truly ‘aware’ business house.
The company knows its business values, social responsibilities & above
all, plays an environmentally cognizant role. Despite the pandemic they
managed to endure hardships successfully and grew further, all thanks to
the company’s core values that are built on integrity
Ankit Gems factory based in Surat - awarded IGBC Green Building award for 2 consecutive years
The gems and jewellery industry
has been constantly demanding,
competitive and above all
extraordinarily tactical because of its
nature of business. In India, this industry
has a prominent share in contributing
to the government coffers. Surat, the
country’s hub for diamond and precious
stone manufacturing units, houses some
true ‘gems’ in this industry. Ankit Gems
Pvt. Ltd. is one such crown jewel with
offices in Mumbai, Surat, Namibia, Hong
Kong & Australia.
Since 1985, the strides taken by this
organization have been instrumental in
establishing it as one of the leaders in the
industry. “A lot of hard work, planning and
strategizing goes into achieving this goal,”
informs Arun Shah one of the founders of
Ankit Gems. With a legacy of 35 years, the
company has grown strength to strength,
achieving several milestones along the
way.
Ankit Gems is a company built
firmly on traditions and values. The
responsibilities of managing the
company’s activities have now been
gradually passed down the family to the
highly qualified and professional young
generation. The younger generation
plays a fundamental role in every key
area of the business continuing Ankit
Gems legacy further ahead.
Employees First
Good employees are pillars of an
organization and recognizing this asset
Ankit Gems Pvt. Ltd has always put
people first. “We opened our factories
on April 27 becoming one of the first
few companies to reopen factories
during the pandemic.Our company
has about 1300 people and since we
took all the necessary precautions
while re-opening, our company was
fortunate to not have any casualties
to Covid-19. Neither did we lay off any of our
employees during this pandemic nor did we
cut any salaries, even the salaries which were
put on hold for some employees were released
back to them,” informs Arun Shah.
The organization has always looked upon its
employees as part of its extended family and
they have always taken care of their needs like
that of their own family. Despite having no
business for nearly two months, the company
has given Diwali bonus to its employees this
year. “Our artisans in Surat got more pay
during the past few months to compensate for
the work lost during lockdown. We have also
supported exports during these difficult times,
making sure we as a company do everything in
our capacity to remain strong,” explains Ankit
Shah.
A Sustainable Approach
The Indian Green Building Council (IGBC),
part of the Confederation of Indian Industry
(CII) was formed in the year 2001. As part of
Ankit Gems Namibia Operation & Solar Panels at Surat
their initiative to encourage more and more
business houses to function in a ‘green’
manner – they award a few enterprises with
the IGBC recognition for Green Buildings.
This award is indeed a prestigious one
and all over India many business houses
aspire to bag this recognition. Ankit Gems
Pvt. Ltd. has bagged the IGBC Green
Building award for two consecutive years
and is raring to go for more.
“While building the factory we had
planned to install eco-friendly solar panels
units to produce green energy for the
building. With the help of our architect we
planned the factory accordingly. Priyansh
Shah, our director in Surat was working
closely with the architect,” informs Ankit
Shah.The company took several wellthought
out steps to build an environment
-friendly factory.
Some of the salient features of our
high-performance building are as
follows:
1. Our building is 31% more energy
efficient than a building of similar size and
type as per ECBC (Energy Conservation
Building Code of India) 2017.
2. It saves 32% water by installation
of water-efficient plumbing fixtures and
treats 100% of its waste water.
3. Cumulatively, this accounts for
a GHG reduction of 365 tons or 40,000
trees.
4. A 520 kW on-site solar
installation generates around 5,75,000
kWh/annum which is equivalent to
reducing 480 tons of CO2e.
5. Almost 75% of our regularly
occupied spaces receive natural daylight,
thereby reducing the lighting consumption
and saving energy.
This award is also prestigious for the
whole diamond industry since it also
proves that the diamond industry is in
the forefront in being environmentally
responsible.
“We have implemented Lean
manufacturing systems in our factory. We
have introduced avoiding wastage of any
kind – material, time et al. We discussed
our plans with all our employees who
worked closely with us to realise this
dream of making our factory totally ecofriendly,”
explains Priyansh Shah.The
idea is to create a sustainable world. “All
of us are emerging out of the pandemic.
We aim to tell the world that -- everything
is possible and if we live in sync with
our environment, businesses will sustain
better,” explains Ankit Shah.
Financial Management is Crucial
Viability is of immense importance for
any business house to flourish and do good.
“Ankit Gems has achieved all financial
targets because we are not over leveraged
in anyway. Ankit Gems is financially very
sound,” informs Arun Shah. They have
already achieved the same turnover as
previous year and are looking forward to a
more profitable close.
Ankit Gems Partners with De Beers Executive Vice President Paul Rowley
Technologically Advanced
Ankit Gems has consolidated its
manufacturing in one factory in Surat. The
factory is vertically integrated with space
over 150,000 sq ft with it full working
capacity of 3000 people, right now their
team consists of over 1300 grading,
quality assurance, product development
and manufacturing specialists. They have
gained skills from years of experience
and also time to time guidance from
professionals and other training courses
as well.
We believe in always being the first to
test new technologies. To this effect, we
have invested significantly in various new
machines to boost their bottom line. This
is achieved by lowering costs over the long
term, and by improving on extracting the
maximum value from the rough, while
having the latest from Sarine, Helium
and Galaxy. The X Ray machine has
already proved its worth to the company.
Smart Recut (for rounds) and Smart
Anycut(fancies) ensures best yield is
achieved from the Semi Processed stone.
Ankit Gems was one of the early adopters
of the Galahad. Ankit Gems plans on
continuously upgrading its technology and
believes that by correctly using available
options, the company can make further
manufacturing gains.
Social Responsibility
Ankit Gems has always fulfilled its social
responsibility by giving back to the society
in the form of donations to prominent
charitable causes ranging from Covid19
relief measures, GJNRF Fund, PMO’s
relief funds for various purposes and
more. They have been conducting blood
donation camps, donating generously for
providing food, water and care facilities
for animals, and many more.
All in all, any organization benefits
from its connect with society and Nature.
“Ankit Gems has all of these and we
would request our fellow companies to
stay positive, work as per their financial
and human capital and take calculated
risks. Work according to your needs and
strengths. Do not get carried away by what
others are doing. Be well-grounded in your
efforts,” says Arun Shah.
76 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 77

Design stuDio
Design stuDio
Ben Crocco, Dreamboule
The Liquid Dream Potion
In these murky times,
where the world is
disillusioned by a
rancorous pandemic,
creations like
Dreamboule are what
gives us hope and
meaning, making us
believe that life can be
magical after all says
Vijetha Rangabashyam
These are no ordinary rings.
The wearer is privy to a whole
new world upon wearing these
treasures that offer an experience that
is precious. The mind that conceived
this idea, of crafting jewellery that
is simply out of this world, is also no
ordinary mind. On a snowy winter,
founder and designer of Dreamboule,
Ben Crocco was in his mountain chalet
in Switzerland, with his wife and muse
Katerina and his three children. “We
were in front of the fireplace and the
children were playing with a boule
de neige, which I like to collect from
all around the world. The boule was
catching the moving flashes and lights
of fire and turning them into thousands
of magical reflections in the room. My
imagination immediately dove into the
world of precious metals and stones
that preserve and tell intimate stories
of dreams and memories. That is when
I realized that I was consumed by the
thoughts of creating wearable dreams,”
says Crocco.
Dreamboule embodies the desire
to give voice to the fascinating,
mysterious and intimate universe of
dreams, memories and emotions. This
is translated into gold and precious
stones sceneries, ensconced in
sapphire crystal, immersed, enhanced
and enlivened by the brand’s signature
liquid Dream Solution. “The slowmotion
movement of impalpable 24k
gold flakes marks the flow of a muffled
world, the world of feelings, made into
a revolutionary work of high jewellery.
This is how Dreamboule creates a
complex aesthetic of sparkling beauty
and sets a new standard of elegance,
where luxury is the freedom to dream.
Change is not possible without a dream
Dreamboule
creates a
complex
aesthetic of
sparkling
beauty and sets
a new standard
of elegance,
where luxury is
the freedom to
dream. Change
is not possible
without a
dream as an
inspiration
as an inspiration,” says Crocco.
Often times, when our imagination
runs wild, we want to create the
impossible – but when it comes to
implementing what one has imagined
exactly, it is not very easy – especially
with pieces like these that have so much
detailing. The challenges Crocco ran
into while implementing his ingenious
idea were many.
The difficulty of bringing these
wearable dreams into reality was huge.
Dreamboule high-jewellery concept is
so innovative that four intense years
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DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 79

Design stuDio
Design stuDio
300 hours of work are required to realize the shining
gold flakes, so as to create their fascinating slow-motion
effect movement. 240 hours and 18 procedures are
required to assemble every single ring
of research and development were
required in order to achieve perfection.
“My professional background in Swiss
high-horology at the family house of
Hublot has definitely played a big
role in this process. The technical
challenges were so many! To create a
sapphire crystal glass whose rotund
shape did not exist before, and to make
it anti-scratch, anti-reflective, highly
robust, with a correct index of image
distortion. To realize a liquid solution
formula with the right density and
completely neutral to gemstones, yet
with the ability to magnify their beauty
and preserve them from the wear
and tear of time. To achieve a 100%
waterproofness 3 ATM and to conceive
a hidden system to control the thermal
compensation of the liquid inside the
jewel,” adds Crocco. This is how the
fusion of arts - watchmaking heritage,
alchemy of liquids and high-jewelry -
began: as a necessity to create a new
sparkling beauty without compromise.
And the process of innovation never
stops at the Dreamboule Lab in
Milan, where the team is constantly
experimenting with new designs and
technical solutions every day, thanks
to the collective efforts of master
watchmakers, chemists and goldsmiths.
Each creation is conceived and
designed in Brera, the historic and
artistic district of Milan, Italy. The
perfect diamonds, emeralds, rubies,
sapphires are accurately selected to
match and evoke the exact dream that
they will embody. 90 hours of high
craftsmanship are needed to bring to
life each magic 18k gold and precious
stones scenery. Once the magic scenery
is crafted in Valenza, the Italian region
of jewellery excellence, it comes to
Milan, in the Brera laboratory, where
the inspiration started. Here, the jewel
is assembled by hand by an expert
and coordinated team of watchmakers,
goldsmiths and chemists together with
the other components: the Swiss Made
sapphire crystal dome and liquid
Dream Solution and the French Made
impalpable 24k gold flakes. “300
hours of work are required to realize
the shining gold flakes, so as to create
their fascinating slow-motion effect
movement. 240 hours and 18 procedures
are required to assemble each single
ring. Every microscopic detail enclosed
in the Dreamboule creation delivers
that exact and wonderful sum of time,
accuracy, savoir-faire, inspiration and
creativity.”
The rings are redolent with the most
delicious gemstones, lending the jewels
a patina of elegance and bursts of
colour. Looking for these rare, exquisite
gemstones is also an ordeal, as they are
sourced from all around the world. “I
look for the unusual and appreciate
pastel shades, delicate reflections in
the color of gemstones. Once having
sourced the stones from a particular
region of interest across the world, they
are cut in our goldsmith workshops
in Vicenza, the district of Italian
jewellery excellence. For instance, I
love aquamarine, especially an exact
quality coming from Brazil. I am going
to dedicate to this beautiful stone a
couple of new creations from the latest
Free & Fun collection, with incredible
Brazilian aquamarines heart-cut.”
In some pieces, loose diamonds and
gemstones dance joyously, offering
the wearer a sensory experience.
Dreamboule’s core ideology is one
that is built on innovation and with
the Free & Fun collection, Crocco
wanted to experiment with movements,
sounds and emotions inside a liquidfree
environment. The unset brilliantcut
diamonds, emeralds and sapphires
slide under the sapphire crystal,
unleashing the abundant joy within
the wearer, enhancing her playful and
happy-go-lucky sides to her persona.
Crocco’s background in Horology has
also immensely helped him in wading
through this challenging journey.
He was at Hublot alongside Ricardo
Guadalupe and Jean-Claude Biver,
responsible in launching the iconic Big
Bang watch, which has been crucial in
the birth of Dreamboule. “I wanted to
create a revolutionary piece of jewellery
and break the rules of conventional
luxury and set the codes of a new
and exciting aesthetic. Dreamboule
creations are highly technical jewels,
which are assembled like watches and
tested waterproof 3 ATM, thanks to
special screws and gaskets. Also, each
jewel has a serial number that makes
them unique and allowing the highest
technical assistance ever,” he adds.
Dreamboule’s spirit is a complex
aesthetic of unrestrained creativity,
constantly seeking for something new
with a seamless mélange of ancient
arts and experimental techniques,
like Swiss mechanical art, Italian
goldsmith tradition and the alchemy
of liquid elements. For the first time in
the industry, Dreamboule jewels build
poetic beauty through an exquisite
technical content. Dreamboule
creations change the rules of elegance
and unveil the beautiful universe of
dreams, “a world within a world.”
Dreamboule collections speak to an
I wanted
to create a
revolutionary
piece of jewellery
and break
the rules of
conventional
luxury and set
the codes of a
new and exciting
aesthetic.
Dreamboule
creations are
highly technical
jewels,
which are
assembled like
watches
80 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD
DiamonD WorlD | September-OctOber 2020 | 81

Design stuDio
The Dreamboule woman loves the unexpected, the
unconventional, the search for rare beauty. She is a true trendsetter.
We have created a vast range of dreamlike worlds, more
than 140 at the moment, reflecting the multiplicity of dreams
living in the fantasies of every woman
independent woman, who is proud of
her individuality, loves to spread her
sparkling charisma and is free to dream
fearlessly in her life. “The Dreamboule
woman loves the unexpected, the
unconventional, the search for rare
beauty. She is a true trend-setter. We
have created a vast range of dreamlike
worlds, more than 140 at the moment,
reflecting the multiplicity of dreams
living in the fantasies of every woman.
Our inspiration goes from nature and
animals, to symbolic and mythological
themes, to sentimental subjects like
love, romance, wonder and joy. Not to
mention the possibility to create unique
and custom-made pieces for every
client,” adds Crocco. The extension
of the Lively & Lovely collection on
the delicate and miniaturized design
of Bubble Line 16mm appeals to
the same woman, who is unabashed,
experimentative and believes in being
one-of-a-kind. The collection is a
smorgasbord of oneiric and colorful
scenes of dragons, insects, frogs and
whales. Dreams of tiny and giant
creatures in 18k gold, white and
champagne diamonds, rubies, pink and
blue sapphires, that evoke the infinite
marvel and imagination in front of
nature.
Crocco believes that Coronavirus has
presented everyone the opportunity to
re-think the concept of time and the
value to live it with a more conscious
quality. “Through our sublime high
jewellery, Dreamboule offers to its
audience of exclusive dreamers the
precise idea of absolute time, the rare
capacity of listening to your inner voice,
to protect and nurture your dreams and
memories. The sapphire crystal dome
encapsulates a precious dream in the
hushed atmosphere of the magic fluid
Dream Solution and protects this little
world from the wear and tear of time.
Discussing on a more practical level,
we have enhanced our presence on
luxury online shopping platforms and
are also further and further exploring
new ways of distance sales.”
Every precious bauble from
Dreamboule represents Crocco’s
sojourn across different parts of
the world, it carries in it a piece of
India, Bhutan, Indonesia, Vietnam,
Cambodia, Oman, Egypt, their colours,
scents, people, architecture and what
have you. The symbolism of animals is
a mainstay in Dreamboule’s collections
and resonates with Asian philosophy.
Though Crocco has travelled the world,
his heart lies in Japan. “In fact, we
are working on a wonderful and very
artistic collection completely dedicated
to the ancient world of Japan.”
82 | September-OctOber 2020 | DiamonD WorlD

GIA AdvertorIAl
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Stone Talk
Opal
Prized for its play-of-colour – the breaking up of waves of light
into the colours of the rainbow – opal enchants. The display is so
mesmerizing that the Bedouins believed lightning was trapped in
the gems as they rained down during thunderstorms.
Opal is the product of seasonal rains that drenched
dry ground in regions such as Australia’s semidesert
outback. Water soaked deep into ancient
underground rock, carrying dissolved silica (a compound
of silicon and oxygen). During dry periods, much of the
water evaporated, leaving deposits of silica in fractures
and cavities in the rock. Over millions of years, the silica
formed opal.
Rich in legend and lore, opal charmed ancient Greeks
who thought the gem bestowed the gift of prophecy and
protected them from disease. Ancient Romans believed it
was the most precious and powerful of all gems. Europeans
held it as a symbol of hope, purity and truth.
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Types of Opal
There are two broad classes of opal: precious and
common. Precious opal displays play-of-colour.
Common opal does not. The main types of precious
opal are white opal, black opal, crystal opal, water
opal, fire opal (also known as “Mexican opal”) and
boulder opal.
Play-of-Colour
Play-of-colour might be the most spectacular
aspect of an opal’s appearance. These flashes of
spectral colour are caused by the diffraction of
light by silica spheres, which are stacked like tiny
ping-pong balls in a box. With the endless combinations
of patterns and colours, no two opals are
exactly alike.
Clarity
An opal’s clarity can range from completely transparent
to opaque. The preferred level of transparency
depends on the opal’s background colour.
Opals can have fractures and surface blemishes and
might contain matrix, or host rock. Crazing, a fine
network of cracks caused by loss of moisture, affects
its durability.
Sources
Opal comes from all over the world. Australia is the
most significant source. Other places where opal is
found include Brazil, Ethiopia, Mexico, Peru and
the United States.
Treatments
Opal can be impregnated with oil, wax or plastic. Opal
can also be assembled into doublets or triplets. Doublets
have a thin slice of opal glued to a base material.
Triplets are covered with a thin dome of clear quartz,
which makes them more GIA.edu resistant to scratching because
quartz is harder than opal. Some opal is dyed or treated
in other ways.
This article is provided by GIA (Gemological Institute of America).
Images Courtesy of: Cenki Thomas, W. Constantin Wild & Co., Gerry Manning
To learn more about opals and other popular gemstones
visit GIA.edu/gem-encyclopedia
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©2018 GIA. GIA® is a registered trademark of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
©2018 GIA. GIA® is a registered trademark of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
©2018 GIA. GIA® is a registered trademark of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
This article is provided by GIA (Gemological Institute of America).
This article is provided by GIA (Gemol
This article is provided by GIA (Gemological GIA.edu Institute of America).
GIA.edu
Images Courtesy of: Cenki Thomas, W. Constantin Wild & Co., Gerry Manning
GIA.edu
Images Courtesy of: Cenki Thomas, W. Constantin Wild & Co., Gerry Images Manning Courtesy of: Cenki Thomas
Learn More About GIA Education Programmes and Laboratory Services in India
Learn More GIAindia.in About GIA Learn Email: Education More labindia@gia.edu Programmes About GIA and Education Email: Laboratory eduindia@gia.edu
Programmes Services in India and Laboratory Servic
GIAindia.in Email: labindia@gia.edu GIAindia.in Email: labindia@gia.edu eduindia@gia.edu Email: eduindia@gia.e
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