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Adv 223 Yumpu

Xmas issue of Adventure Magazine December 2020 - January 2021

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Inserts: Map of our walk, my trusty Keen boots, meal preparation / Main: A beautiful spot to camp out for the night<br />

"We eventually settled in for the night to the sound of a couple<br />

of Moreporks trying to outdo each other... We could still hear<br />

the distant roaring of the Tasman Sea but here in the valley<br />

there was no wind, making the stillness eerie."<br />

This is another reason why we go<br />

tramping. Five centuries ago, this<br />

valley was used by Te Kawerau a<br />

Maki people to grow kumera which<br />

were stored in pits protected by the<br />

steep faces of hills to the south of<br />

Whatipu. Right now, it felt like we had<br />

stepped into something only recently<br />

discovered. I imagined how even<br />

more magnificent it would have looked<br />

before the logging of the massive<br />

Totara, Kauri and Rimu began in<br />

1880’s.<br />

Although the thick kikuyu made it<br />

reasonably heavy going, there were<br />

numerous faint tracks, and it was clear<br />

from the number of baits set that a few<br />

people made the trip here. At the time<br />

I didn’t really think too much about<br />

the several tracks that seemed to be<br />

disappearing into thickets of kanuka.<br />

Every small rise we walked over led<br />

to a different scene and we soon<br />

reached the large pond fed by the<br />

Taranaki Stream. The pond itself was<br />

glassy calm, with a couple of paradise<br />

shelducks calmly moving to the other<br />

side as we approached. It looked so<br />

amazingly peaceful.<br />

It was becoming difficult to find a single<br />

track that headed north. They all crisscrossed<br />

the thickly matted kikuyu and<br />

we often found ourselves in bog if we<br />

ventured too far from the base of the<br />

cliffs. After having to backtrack several<br />

times around clumps of gorse or<br />

kanuka and climbing over pohutukawa<br />

branches at the base of the cliffs, we<br />

eventually reached Ohaka Head. Then<br />

it became difficult. The inland route<br />

was very steep and getting steeper the<br />

further we north we ventured. Below<br />

the bluff was a waist high pond with a<br />

floor of thick mud. If we were going to<br />

make it to Karekare in time we had to<br />

head to the beach, over a kilometre<br />

away.<br />

We backtracked yet again until we<br />

seemed to be clear of most of the<br />

bogs, stopped for a snack and quick<br />

coffee (shout-out to those Jet Boil<br />

folk) and headed out across the<br />

marshlands.<br />

It was then that I came across a large<br />

patch of flattened grass and it became<br />

clear who was making the many tracks<br />

through the grass and into thickets. I<br />

am no highly experienced pig-hunter<br />

but is obvious that many trotting swine<br />

have free reign in this place.<br />

It was slow, heavy going as we<br />

would our way around thick kanuka<br />

and impenetrable clumps of gorse.<br />

Knee-high grass was interlaced with<br />

blackberry - how I missed those full<br />

gaiters. It was well over an hour later<br />

before we emerged scratched, bruised,<br />

hot and hungry onto the black sand of<br />

the beach.<br />

We knew we had run out of time. Time<br />

to show that respect and head home.<br />

Even so, we were in high spirits as we<br />

headed back along the beach to a night<br />

at the Whatipu Lodge camping ground,<br />

a fresh cold shower, followed by some<br />

spaghetti bolognaise (love those Go<br />

Native chefs) and a well-deserved<br />

glass or two of red wine.<br />

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Trek’s iconic carry system offers world-class comfort and<br />

ventilation. Whether you’re feeling the heat on dusty tracks or<br />

picking up the pace hut-to-hut, the AirZone Trek helps you keep<br />

your cool.<br />

#MOVEYOURWORLD<br />

26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>223</strong>

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