Adv 223 Yumpu
Xmas issue of Adventure Magazine December 2020 - January 2021
Xmas issue of Adventure Magazine December 2020 - January 2021
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Inserts: Map of our walk, my trusty Keen boots, meal preparation / Main: A beautiful spot to camp out for the night<br />
"We eventually settled in for the night to the sound of a couple<br />
of Moreporks trying to outdo each other... We could still hear<br />
the distant roaring of the Tasman Sea but here in the valley<br />
there was no wind, making the stillness eerie."<br />
This is another reason why we go<br />
tramping. Five centuries ago, this<br />
valley was used by Te Kawerau a<br />
Maki people to grow kumera which<br />
were stored in pits protected by the<br />
steep faces of hills to the south of<br />
Whatipu. Right now, it felt like we had<br />
stepped into something only recently<br />
discovered. I imagined how even<br />
more magnificent it would have looked<br />
before the logging of the massive<br />
Totara, Kauri and Rimu began in<br />
1880’s.<br />
Although the thick kikuyu made it<br />
reasonably heavy going, there were<br />
numerous faint tracks, and it was clear<br />
from the number of baits set that a few<br />
people made the trip here. At the time<br />
I didn’t really think too much about<br />
the several tracks that seemed to be<br />
disappearing into thickets of kanuka.<br />
Every small rise we walked over led<br />
to a different scene and we soon<br />
reached the large pond fed by the<br />
Taranaki Stream. The pond itself was<br />
glassy calm, with a couple of paradise<br />
shelducks calmly moving to the other<br />
side as we approached. It looked so<br />
amazingly peaceful.<br />
It was becoming difficult to find a single<br />
track that headed north. They all crisscrossed<br />
the thickly matted kikuyu and<br />
we often found ourselves in bog if we<br />
ventured too far from the base of the<br />
cliffs. After having to backtrack several<br />
times around clumps of gorse or<br />
kanuka and climbing over pohutukawa<br />
branches at the base of the cliffs, we<br />
eventually reached Ohaka Head. Then<br />
it became difficult. The inland route<br />
was very steep and getting steeper the<br />
further we north we ventured. Below<br />
the bluff was a waist high pond with a<br />
floor of thick mud. If we were going to<br />
make it to Karekare in time we had to<br />
head to the beach, over a kilometre<br />
away.<br />
We backtracked yet again until we<br />
seemed to be clear of most of the<br />
bogs, stopped for a snack and quick<br />
coffee (shout-out to those Jet Boil<br />
folk) and headed out across the<br />
marshlands.<br />
It was then that I came across a large<br />
patch of flattened grass and it became<br />
clear who was making the many tracks<br />
through the grass and into thickets. I<br />
am no highly experienced pig-hunter<br />
but is obvious that many trotting swine<br />
have free reign in this place.<br />
It was slow, heavy going as we<br />
would our way around thick kanuka<br />
and impenetrable clumps of gorse.<br />
Knee-high grass was interlaced with<br />
blackberry - how I missed those full<br />
gaiters. It was well over an hour later<br />
before we emerged scratched, bruised,<br />
hot and hungry onto the black sand of<br />
the beach.<br />
We knew we had run out of time. Time<br />
to show that respect and head home.<br />
Even so, we were in high spirits as we<br />
headed back along the beach to a night<br />
at the Whatipu Lodge camping ground,<br />
a fresh cold shower, followed by some<br />
spaghetti bolognaise (love those Go<br />
Native chefs) and a well-deserved<br />
glass or two of red wine.<br />
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#MOVEYOURWORLD<br />
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>223</strong>