Adv 223 Yumpu

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"Even with several metres
of sand now filling the
floor of the cave, it must
be one of the largest I have
ever seen in New Zealand,
certainly one of the most
easily accessible."
Harekeke flax, ti kouka cabbage trees, kanuka and
gorse covered the undulating valley floor
The entrance to Whatipu Caves
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Whatipu is the name of the Taniwha that
once resided here which only adds the aura
of the place. This was far too spectacular
to leave in a hurry and with the weather
forecast looking even better for tomorrow,
we chose to change plans so we could
spend some more time here. We would
camp the night at the designated campsite
at the Caves and continue onto Karekare
tomorrow. It would turn out to be an even
better decision than we realised.
After enjoying an early lunch on Wing Head,
we sat sipping hot coffee and gazing out
at the priceless view. It was well over an
hour later before we made our way onto the
Caves Trail, an easy hour or so walk along a
well-worn path.
Although I knew of the existence of the
caves, I had no idea how many and how
large they were. The first cave quickly drops
to less than two metres high and then we
had to leave packs, turn on torches and
scramble a few metres into the darkness.
The other caves just get bigger and more
spectacular as you head north. To give an
idea of scale the aptly named Giant Cave is
so large that the locals held formal dances
back in the late 19th Century. Even with
several metres of sand now filling the floor of
the cave, it must be one of the largest I have
ever seen in New Zealand, certainly one of
the most easily accessible. Children would
love this place so plan for 2 to 3 hours. Bring
along cycling helmets. And torches.
Much later that afternoon we set up camp
and climbed a short track and settled down
under some Pohutukawas and enjoyed a
dinner of Go Native butter chicken and mash.
Below us a black swan and Pukeko were
feeding in a small pond in front of Windy
Point. Thick cloud on the horizon spoiled
the sunset a bit, but we eventually settled
in for the night to the sound of a couple of
Moreporks trying to outdo each other. A great
way to finish a memorable day.
Next day was as promised, bright and clear
with almost no breeze. The downside was a
dew fall that was wet enough to have been a
decent rainfall.
I had been warned of a “tricky little climb” at
Windy Point, the entrance to the Pararaha
Valley. As it would turn out “tricky little climb”
was a typically understated kiwi description
- standing on rocks set in shin high water,
the climb was only just over 2 metres high,
but very vertical with cracks that were not
tramping-boot-friendly. For my partner
anyway. My Keen Targhee III handled them
easily – well ok, maybe not entirely easy but
certainly a lot easier than it looked.
Once we had clambered over the ledge the
scene before us was mind blowing. Almost
as if we’d stepped into some secret valley.
The well-worn track that had led to the caves
was now covered in knee-high kikuyu grass
and would soon disappear altogether. Huge
rocks and boulders lay just below the cliff
next to us. The cliff itself was bare, crumbling
rock that had been dealt to by centuries
of wind and rain. Further north the lower
reaches of the cliffs were thickly covered in
pohutukawa and nikau. Ahead harekeke flax,
ti kouka cabbage trees, kanuka and gorse
covered the undulating valley floor.
We could still hear the distant roaring of the
Tasman Sea but here in the valley there was
no wind, making the stillness eerie. Very
eerie. It was easy to imagine Jeff Goldblum
and Sam Neill desperately stumbling across
thick matted kikuyu ahead of us, an angry
T-Rex in tow.