Adv 223 Yumpu

HIKING
TALES
Whatipu Caves &
Pararaha Valley
By Erik Skilling
The West Coast at Whatipu is such a unique place –
the constant roar of Southern Ocean swells crashing
onto a black-sand coast, brooded over by crumbling
cliff faces. No maiden-hair ferns or daphne bushes
here, this is a place of hardier nikau, harekeke flax
and cabbage trees and as we would find out, almost
impenetrable stands of kanuka, gorse and blackberry.
We would also discover this place was being enjoyed
by some very unwelcome exotic mammals.
If the West Coast were a character, at times it would be
a beautiful Polynesian maiden with jet-black hair and
shining dark brown eyes but lose respect and it quickly
transforms into a Siren with dire consequences. It does
not care what your intentions are – it sets the rules.
Respect it and you will be amazed by its beauty.
So, in early spring with the promise a few warm days,
light northerlies and a mid-day low tide we set off for
Whatipu at the mouth of the Manukau Harbour. The
Gibbons and Zion tracks along the cliff tops were still
closed and a trip along the beach did not really appeal,
so our intention was to tramp to Karekare along the
base of the cliffs about a kilometre inland from the
coast. Our goal was to make it to Karekare Point by the
midday low tide. Easy.
After arriving a little later than expected, we didn’t
think too much about what would turn out to be a
painful mistake - we hadn’t packed full gaiters. We
set off in a bit of a hurry and as so often happens
we unintentionally took the short path to the beach,
emerged from the low scrub, stopped and stared,
amazed by the view in front of us.
Rugged Paratutai Island dominated the skyline to
our left, Te-Toka-Tapu-a-Kupe (nine pin rock) in the
distance ahead of us. A gentle offshore breeze was
holding up some quite small, very un-West-Coast
looking surf, but in the far distance we could see the
swells breaking on the infamous Manukau Bar. The
vastness was stunning.
We felt drawn to Paratutai Island and found the
battered remains of the 1880’s wharf and jetty, with a
view to the deceptively calm waters of Wonga Wonga
Bay. After scrambling up the foothills of Wing Head
we were rewarded with 270-degree vista. From Cutter
Rock and Pararaha Valley to the north-west, South
across the black sands of the bay to the Manukau
Bar and East across the Manukau Harbour to West
Auckland, all looking glorious in the spring sunshine.
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