Adv 223 Yumpu

PHIL’S SEA KAYAK
Stewart Island
The mists lifted by the time we'd finished
a leisurely lunch at the hut. With sunshine
on our backs, we packed up our rafts
and hiked a seldom-used track past a
coastal seal colony. It then turned inland,
featuring leg-swallowing mud-holes and
dense flax bushes that seemed designed
to catch any paddle strapped to the
outside of any pack.
We eventually re-emerged on the coast
and happily ambled to the aptly-named
Big Bay. The infinity of the sky matched
the expansive landscape: ocean-frolicking
dolphins; oystercatchers hopping along
streams; a strip of beach dividing West
Coast waves from wind-swept shrubs and
distant mountaintops. It was almost too
much to take in.
At the edge of the bay, we merrily dived
into the ocean as we washed all of our kit
before heading to the luxuriously empty
Big Bay Hut. Not even the sandflies could
dampen spirits.
The hard hiking was now behind us. The
next morning, a pleasant 15 km hike
along a 4WD track and then a series of
river beds led us to the Pyke River. Back
in the water, we were now seasoned
rafters, easily capable of pirate antics
such as raft-ramming or leaping from
one boat to another. Mother Nature had
practically invited such tomfoolery by
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#223
Lake McKerrow on a typically majestic, moody Fiordland day
bestowing upon us more sunshine.
This section of river was especially
glorious, with several deep pools of
turquoise water. A tail-wind picked up
later, launching us across Lake Wilmot
and inviting the use of any sheet-like
material for a spinnaker effect.
Perhaps I let my guard down in the wake
of these antics. Not long afterwards,
Indestructible was found to be less than
impervious to sharp objects under the
river surface. Eva and I then had our close
encounter with the gargantuan tree maw.
It was with some relief that we later landed
at the pebble beach just below Olivine
Hut. The customary gear explosion, strip
session and fire-starting ensued.
This fire was particularly important, given
the need for the driest possible conditions
to patch up Indestructible. It was also
New Year's Eve, and some obligatory
celebration - via single malt whiskey - was
in order, but we were still asleep by 10pm.
The inevitable storm
A familiar scene greeted us the following
morning: clag. Wispy threads of mist
clung to forest edges with inimitable
Fiordland charm. Our progress had been
quicker than anticipated, which came in
handy today. It was a short distance to
cross Lake Alabaster, but the skies were
looking inauspicious.
No sooner had we arrived at the lakeside
hut did the inevitable downpour unleash
- relentless, thunderous, the kind that
makes you want to strip and jump in the
lake, which we duly did.
We spent the rest of the storm in the
comfort of the hut. Some hikers we met at
Olivine Hut the previous evening arrived
later with tales of wading through mud so
deep that one of them had been stripped
of his shorts. We felt very appreciative of
our rafts.
The storm had abated by the morning.
There were only a few kilometres of the
Pyke left before being swallowed up by
the coast-bound Hollyford River. Instead
of a final, brief fling with the rafts, we
tramped 20 km to the start of the trail
with lightness in our steps as well as our
packs.
The track through beech forest was
what a Fiordland trip usually looked like,
offering occasional glimpses of the river
or a waterfall. It's not to be scoffed at. But
the rafting had left us enlightened, gifting
us stronger friendships, added resilience,
and a novel way to see more of the everchanging,
magical faces of Fiordland.
Explore the pristine clear
waters of Stewart Island
with its amazing marine
life, bays and sandy
beaches.
Experience paddling paradise!
Stroll golden sandy beaches and take in the rich cultural history.
Full/half day/2 1/2 hour and sunset excursions available.
Registered owner/guide; passionate sea kayaker.
Kayak rental available (some conditions apply).
PHIL@ SEAKAYAKSTEWARTISLAND.NZ | 027 4442323
www.seakayakstewartisland.nz