Monkwood DIY Desk Plans BETA version

Monkwood DIY Desk:
Designed by Brandon Monk Muñoz // Built by You
monkwoodstudio.com
(BETA Version)

Table of Contents
3 Why Build a Studio Desk?
4 Style & Method
5 Notes on Safety
6 Tools & Equipment
10 Model A // 61 key - 3 rack bays
11 - dimensions & diagrams
11 - materials & supplies
11 - cutting tops & shelving
12 - cutting under frame parts
13 - bases
14 - finishing
15 - assembly
16 Model B // 88 key - 2 split rack bays
11 - dimensions
11 - materials & supplies
11 - cutting tops & shelving
12 - cutting under frame parts
13 - bases
14 - finishing
15 - assembly
22 Model Z (custom configuration)
23 - notes on hardwood
24 - notes on sit/stand bases
25 - notes on future editions and upgrades
25 Example Photos
26 #MonkwoodDIYdesk Community
@ reddit.com/monkwooddiydesk

Why Build a Studio Desk?
A desk can be much more than a wooden rectangle that holds up your stuff. A well built
studio desk can organize your creative tools and help you focus your skills and ideas
into a unified workflow that unlocks your potential to alter your current reality for the
better. Or, it can simply be a very nice place to shoot some emails.
However you decide to use your studio desk, you’ll soon experience the benefit of
having a versatile space to work on what’s important to you. Now you won’t waste time
setting up your gear whenever you get inspired or start feeling cable chaos fatigue when
10 hours into an all night session. A designated space to create will allow you to pick up
wherever you left off and begin to gain some real traction towards your goals and
aspirations.
I’m not suggesting a studio desk will magically make your life better. Yet, if built and
used with sincere intent, it can definitely help open up many new possibilities for you.
I’ve built over 250 desks for all sorts of creative professionals. Whether they were a full
time composer/producer or a lawyer by day and synth lord by night - each of my clients
has an innate desire to manifest their ideas into material form - no matter what.
If that sounds anything like you, then I believe you have what it takes to make this
DIY desk and then go on to do great things with it...
You got this!
Brandon Monk Muñoz

Style & Method
These plans are intended for the first time woodworker with minimal tools, time,
space and money to work with. If you can build a skate ramp, you can build this. The
building style is inspired by the old school, use what you got in the garage method I
watched my grandfather employ during my childhood. With only a few tools and
some scrap wood he could build a doghouse that could survive the apocalypse.
My aim is to help you create a beautiful and long lasting piece of furniture with
common materials and very simple construction methods. In these plans I combine
strength and accessibility of ‘skateramp joinery’ with the attention to detail I've
learned over 20 years of furniture making.
You are also welcome to seek assistance from an experienced craftsperson in your area
if needed or preferred. Those with more experience and resources can enhance the
design with alternate joinery and hardwood materials to make it even better.
I see the #MonkwoodDIYdesk as a long term and evolving project. I will add more
details and options to the plans in the days to come. I look forward to seeing the
many different versions that will come out of these plans.
Treat it like a flexible recipe which can be adapted to fit your specific taste and needs.
The desk can be made in a weekend, but if you have the time and space, I recommend
giving it about a week so you can hone in and give each step of the process your full
attention and focus. If you only have a small window to work with, just give it your all,
don’t rush or get too mad at mistakes. They are a part of every learning process.

Notes on Safety
(post in a visible area as you build)
__________________________________________________________________________
• Build Sober
• Don’t Rush
• Wear Eye Protection + Dust Mask
• Measure Twice, Cut Once
• Don’t Make Cuts in Awkward Positions
• Let Blades Spin Fully Before Cutting
• Don’t Video Yourself While Making Cuts
• Organize Your Power Cables
• Unplug Your Tools When Not in Use
• Put Oily rags in Water Bucket After Use
• Clean Work Area Frequently
• Don’t Get Too Mad at Your Mistakes

Tools & Equipment:
Use all tools with care and respect. If borrowing any from neighbors or friends please return
them promptly, cleaned and in good condition. I also recommend requesting the help of those
with building experience for any part of the process you may need assistance with.
__________________________________________________________________________
Essential//
• miter saw or handsaw with miter box
• #2 pencil / silver color pencil / sharpie
• tape measure
• combination square
• hammer
• power drill
• stubby phillips screwdriver
• #2 phillips / 1/8” pilot bit / counter sink bit
• worktable on sawhorses or 4 x 8 - 3/4 ply or
insulation foam on ground
• extension chord
• 3” paint brush
• water bucket or large quart cup
• cloth rags
• first aid kit (place in plain sight to help stay alert)
• sanding stick*
Recommended//
• circular saw ‘skil saw’ (if cutting
your own ply)
• orbital sander or regular square
• 48” metal T-square or straight edge
• router with 1/4” round over bit
• small hand plane
• nail gun with 2” and 2.5” nails**
• Kreg pocket hole system**
* Instructions how to make in finishing section
** You can substitute wood screw and hammered finish
nails with these tools

Model A // 61 key Studio Desk

Model A // Materials & Supplies:
This shopping list is based on readily available and cost effective construction materials. You are
welcome to substitute certain items for others, such as hardwood tops instead of ply. However,
you will need to adapt the plans to suite your material preferences.
This list also includes additional pieces of wood for a possible mistake cuts and scrap wood to
use for assembly and finish purposes. If using Kreg Jig or nail gun you’ll need to get the
equivalent screws/nails needed.
__________________________________________________________________________
Wood//
1 4 x 8 ft sheet 3/4” (18mm) plywood (construction or furniture grade)
1 4 x 8 ft sheet of 3/4” (18mm) ply or insulation foam (for cutting assembly work top)
3 2 x 6 - 8ft (245cm)
3 2 x 4 - 10ft (305cm) - or 4 @ 8ft long
3 1 x 2 - 8ft (245cm) fir, pine or poplar
Building Supplies//
Choose the driest and straightest pieces you can find!
2 14” (356mm) or 16” metal drawer slides
(Accuride 3832 or equivalent - regular not soft close or push!)
4 A35z Simpson Strong Tie mounting brackets
(or large door hinges)
25 box of #6 - 2” (50mm) coarse drywall or wood screws
25 box of #8 - 2.5” (64mm) coarse drywall or wood
screws
50 box of #8 - 5/8” (16mm) pan head screws
25 box of 2” (50mm) finish nails
1 small bottle of wood glue (ex: Titebond 2)
Finish Supplies//
3 sheets each of 80/120/220 grit sandpaper
5 80 grit paper for sander
1 quart (946ml) clear top coat finish
(water based recommended on ply)
1 quart (946ml) wood stain or paint
1 beeswax and or orange oil
4 felt pads for bases
1 small wood filler
1 plastic or fabric drop cloth

Cutting Tops and Shelving:
You can cut the main panels with a circular saw or even a handsaw if needed. You can also
show this page to someone who can operate the sheet cutting panel saw which can be found at
many large supply stores like Home Depot or B&Q. They can make the main cross cuts for
you if you ask them nicely. Tips help too.
__________________________________________________________________________
Before cutting ply, look and see which side looks the
best and use that for your desk top and top shelf
1. Measure and mark ply from left edge at 66”
2. Measure and mark ply from left edge at 81”
3. Measure and mark ply from left edge at 91”
4. Use T-square or straight edge to draw a line
across the whole sheet with a sharpie
5. Cut on the line at 91”
6. Cut on the line at 81”
7. Cut on the line at 66”
8. Measure and mark a line at 33” lengthwise
across the large 66” x 48 piece
9. Cut across the line

Cutting Parts:
Use the straightest and driest pieces of wood you can find for the under-frame and bases to
avoid any assembly issues from warped wood. Cut rack shelf partitions from the same piece
of wood to insure it is the same width as it can vary slightly from piece to piece.
Always keep your holding hand AWAY from the cutting area.
1. Cut 2 pieces of 2x6 at 31.5” (main side frame panels)
2. Cut 10 degree angles on both ends of each. (make cure
they face correctly like a v.
3. Cut 4 pieces of 2x6 at 14” (rack shelf)
4. Cut 1 piece of 2x4 at 48” (support beam)
5. Cut 2 pieces of 1x2 at 48’ (hidden shelf rails)
6. Cut 1 piece of 1x2 at 47 7/8” (sliding shelf front rail)
7. Cut 1 piece of 1x2 at 47” (sliding shelf back rail)

Sanding and Finishing:
I recommend pre-finishing the pieces before assembly as it it easier to work on in pieces +
way less messy. It also allows for different tones for the parts and tops as shown in the
example pieces. Always use adequate floor covering as to not anger your landlord. Things
splatter no matter how careful you are.
The Sanding Stick:
A useful shaping and sanding tool for this project and beyond.
I recommend making at least a couple.
1. Cut 1x2 off cut at 11”
2. Fold and cut 1 sheet of sandpaper in half lengthwise
3. Apply spray adhesive or school glue to back of sandpaper
4. Line up edge of paper with long edge of wood and wrap around
5. Use hands to press on sandpaper until fully adhered
Shaping and Sanding:
Rough to smooth. Don’t rush or skip paper grits. It’ll all shows up in the end...
1. Use router or sanding stick around to round the
top edge of your desktop and top shelf piece.
2. Use router or sanding stick to round the front and
back edges of rack shelf partitions.
3. Use router or sanding stick to round the front/
back and bottom edge of the underframe side panels
4. Use sanding stick to tame any remaining sharp -
fresh cut edges and corners of the plywood shelving
and underframe parts.
5. Use sander or hand with 120/150 grit to smooth
out the edges you just sanded with 80grit.
6. Use sander or hand with 120/150 grit to smooth all
flat surfaces of the panels and parts

Finishing:
A million ways to chase a cat. Here’s just a few...
Paint Sample Wood Stain:
A cheap way to get wood to look any color you want.
1. Mix one 8oz (237ml) sample per quart (1L) of water
2. Stir well
3. test on off cuts till you get the right ratio for you
4. add more water if too dark/opaque
Brushing on Finish:
Use brush to apply water based paint or stain. Use rag or small bristle brush to apply oil
stain. Always put oily rags in water bucker after use for fire safety.
1. Paint or stain top panels desired color with brush
2. Paint or stain underframe parts desired color
3. Paint or stain 2x4’s for bases desired color (can
do this before or after making cuts - see Base
section for more info)
4. Lightly sand with 220
5. Apply clear water based finish
6. Sand with used 220 and add another coat if
desired. I recommend 2 or 3 coats of clear for the
desktop.
7. Add second coat on tops

Cutting Bases:
2x4 material for bases can be pre finished before cutting or afterward. I pre-finished them
in the example desks as its easier to brush upon the whole plank. Either way, I recommend
cutting the 4 parts from a single 10ft - 2x4 for wood consistency. I cut pieces in order like I
would a grain wrapped box. Make a smaller practice piece if you have extra wood.
You can also make these a simpler rectangle if your miter saw or box doesn’t go past 45 deg.
__________________________________________________________________________
1. Set your miter saw to 0 deg and cut following
pieces from long 8-10ft 2x4 starting from the right.
2. Cut 1st piece at 29.5” then label 1a w/ pencil
3. Cut 2nd piece at 30” then label 1b (bottom)
4. Cut 3rd piece at 29.5” then label 1c (side)
5. Cut 4th piece at 20.5” then label 1d (top)
6. Repeat above cuts for for other base,
labeling 2a - 2b - 2c - 2d in the same manner.
7. Arrange Base 1 on your worktop next to you in
the way with will be assembled (fig 3.)
8. Draw a mark on each end indicating which
direction the cut will be made. Then draw a 40 to the
top cuts and a 50 to the bottom ones. This will help
you keep track of each cut.
On the following cuts I recommend making 2 cuts per
miter. One to get close to the edge and the second to
go right up to the the edge. If using a handsaw miter
box just make one cut on the edge.
9. Set miter saw to 40deg and make the 4 cuts on
the top miters you labeled accordingly.
10. Set miter saw to 50deg and make the 4 cuts on
the top miters you labeled accordingly.
11. Check cuts with measuring tape and dry
assemble on worktop to see if they fit together well.
12. Repeat the above steps with Base 2

Assembling Bases:
Use the tape trick method for gluing up the base parts and reinforcing with screws after glue dries.
_________________________________________________________________________
1. Layout 4 pieces for left Base 1 on long work top
or foam board. Place them in consecutive order from
end to end with outside facing up.
2. Use painters tape or duct tape to connect ends
3. Flip over carefully
4. Add glue to miters and spread evenly
5. Gently lift up parts to meet together
6. Attach tape to remaining end
7. Wipe and let dry for 2-3hours
8. Drill 2 pilot holes on each miter angle. entering
from top and bottom of base. Use optional
countersink after for cleaner screw entry.
9. Use #8 x 2in screws in each pilot hole. 2 per
angle - 8 per base.
10. Drill 8 evenly spaced pilot holes to to trapezoid
piece of the bases. Then Countersink.
11. Sand and touch up finish on miter angles and
ends
12. Repeat the above steps with right Base 2

Assembling Underframe:
We employ a simple skate ramp style method with screws or nail gun.
You can adapt to dowels, pocket holes or dominoes if preferred.
_________________________________________________________________________
1. Designate which side frame pieces are left and
right and mark them on the top side. L and R
2. Lay side frames on worktop with inside facing up.
3. Use measuring tape and combo square to mark
layout points and pilot hole marking accorning to
digram above. (Will include more specific instructions
in version 1.0)
4. Drill pilot holes for support beam and hidden shelf.
add countersink on outside
5. Set combo square to 7/8” (22ml) and mark a line
on the bottom inside front of side piece for aligning
the drawer slides. front of slide should be 2” from
front and 29.5” from back for both left and right
slides.
6. Take out shelf piece of drawer slide by pulling
plastic tab. (see slides instructions for more details)
7. Attach frame portion of slide to the left and right
side frames.
8. Place left and right side frames upside down on
worktop with insides facing eachother.
9. Attach 2x4 support beam angle using 2 - #8 x
2.5” screws though pilot holes on each side.

10. cut 2 pieces of 2x6 @ 4.5” long for assembly
supports for hidden shelf. (cut them off of a scrap
piece no shorter than 14” for safety!)
11. Lay 4.5” cut off on each side where the hidden
shelf will be.
12. Place hidden shelf on top of scrap supports
and line up to markings.
13. Screws into side frame using #8 x 2.5” wood
screws. (3 screws pers side - 6 total). Use a clamp
if needed to hold in place.
14. Attach front and back 1x2 rails onto hidden
shelf using nail gun or 1.5” brad finish nails.
15. Take out shelf piece of drawer slide by pulling
plastic tab. (see slides instructions for more details)
16. Attach frame portion of slide to the left and
right side frames.
17. Place left and right side frames upside down
on worktop with insides facing eachother.
18. Attach 2x4 support beam angle using 2 - #8 x
2.5” screws though pilot holes on each side.
19. Drill 8 evenly spaced pilot holes to to trapezoid
piece of the bases. Then Countersink.
11. Sand and touch up finish on miter angles and
ends

Model B - 88key // Materials & Supplies:
This shopping list is based on readily available and cost effective construction materials. You are
welcome to substitute certain items for others, such as hardwood tops instead of ply. However,
you will need to adapt the plans to suite your material preferences.
This list also includes additional pieces of wood for a possible mistake cuts and scrap wood to
use for assembly and finish purposes. If using Kreg Jig or nail gun you’ll need to get the
equivalent screws/nails needed.
__________________________________________________________________________
Wood//
1 4 x 8 ft sheet 3/4” (18mm) plywood (construction or furniture grade)
1 4 x 8 ft sheet of 3/4” (18mm) ply or insulation foam (for cutting assembly work top)
2 2 x 8 - 8ft (245cm)
2 2 x 6 - 8ft (245cm)
3 2 x 4 - 10ft (305cm) - or 4 @ 8ft long (245cm)
3 1 x 2 - 8ft (245cm) fir, pine or poplar
Building Supplies//
Choose the driest and straightest pieces you can find!
2 14” (356mm) or 16” metal drawer slides
(Accuride 3832 or equivalent - regular not soft close or push!)
4 A35z Simpson Strong Tie mounting brackets
(or large 3” door hinges)
25 box of #6 - 2” (50mm) coarse drywall or wood screws
25 box of #8 - 2.5” (64mm) coarse drywall or wood
screws
50 box of #8 - 5/8” (16mm) pan head screws
25 box of 2” (50mm) finish nails
1 small bottle of wood glue (ex: Titebond 2)
Finish Supplies//
3 sheets each of 80/120/220 grit sandpaper
5 80 grit paper for sander
1 quart (946ml) clear top coat finish
(water based recommended on ply)
1 quart (946ml) wood stain or paint
1 beeswax and or orange oil
4 felt pads for bases
1 small wood filler
1 plastic or fabric drop cloth

Model B // 88 key Studio Desk