Spring 2019 for Try Before You Buy

LOCALLY OWNED, LOCALLY PRODUCED...

www.exmoormagazine.co.uk

ISSUE No. 86 Spring 2019 £3.20

EXMOOR

FOR ALL THOSE WHO LOVE EXMOOR, NORTH DEVON & THE QUANTOCKS

Lorna Doone special

150th Anniversary Events

The Real Badgworthy

River of the Doones

In conversation with...

Gordon Pickard Short

Exmoor’s Young Farmers

The Peaky Climbers

Dogs Trust Ilfracombe

Rupert White

Discovering

Dunster Castle Gardens

Snowdrop Valley

Brendon Hills Walking

Kestrels School

Wild Orchids

Astrophotography

Hoar Oak Publishing Ltd

RECIPES STEAM ENGINES SPRING DIARY BOOKS UPSTREAM THINKING

The West Country is Stags Country

stags.co.uk

C ORNWALL

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PORLOCK 2.3 Acres

An 8 bedroom former hunting lodge

set in extensive private grounds

enjoying a convenient yet private

position on the edge of the village.

Direct access to walking and riding.

Garage, parking, gardens and

woodland. 2.3 acres in total.

Income potential.

EPC Band G. Web find: 93137

Guide Price: £850,000

Dulverton Office 01398 323174

EAST ANSTEY

4.1 Acres

A well-maintained 4 bedroom farmhouse in a rural yet accessible location

with good equestrian facilities. Enjoying a southerly aspect with views over

surrounding countryside. Stables, paddocks and field shelter. Large

workshop/garage with separate access. Garden store.

EPC Band D. Web find: 95358

Guide Price: £595,000 Dulverton Office 01398 323174

TIMBERSCOMBE

15.1 Acres

A 4 bedroom character equestrian property with pasture and woodland

enjoying spectacular rural views. American barn, stables, manege and

direct access to bridleways providing miles of fantastic riding country.

Further 5.6 acres available by separate negotiation.

EPC Band E. Web find: 52768


SIMONSBATH

A spacious 3 bedroom semi-detached character cottage with lovely views

in the heart of the village. Unusually large garden with a pond and

vegetable plot. Spacious parking in front of two big outbuildings. Excellent

location for walking and country pursuits.

EPC Band G. Web find: 93001


RURAL DULVERTON

An impressive and comfortable 4 bedroom detached stone barn conversion

enjoying a wonderful semi-rural position, with stunning far-reaching rural

views. Beautiful landscaped gardens with pond and sheltered seating

areas. Enclosed parking for several cars.

EPC Band D. Web find: 94606


@StagsProperty

Bampton £585,000

A detached, contemporary home

situated on the edge of Bampton,

with secluded gardens and beautiful

southerly views over the Exe Valley.

Superb kitchen/ dining room with

bi-folding doors, 2 reception rooms,

utility, 5 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, large

gardens and garage. EPC Rating C.

Bampton 01398 332006

Bampton £650,000

A rare opportunity to own a superb 4

bedroom chalet bungalow set in a

beautifully secluded and tranquil position

within gardens and grounds of 2.3 acres

with river frontage and fishing. Outbuildings,

substantial garage/ workshop and ample

parking. EPC Rating C.

Bampton 01398 332006

Sold - similar properties required

Bridgetown £525,000

An immaculate detached 3 bedroom

family home, set in landscaped gardens

in the heart of the Exmoor National Park.

The property has lovely views over the

beautiful Exe Valley, yet it is just 5 miles

from the town of Dulverton with all local

amenities. EPC Rating D.

Dulverton 01398 324488

Sold

Sold

Sold

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Dulverton £275,000

A charming 2 double bedroom semi

detached stone cottage, situated in a

quiet lane in the centre of Dulverton,

with the benefit of an easily maintained

rear garden. EPC Rating F.

Dulverton 01398 324488

Sales, Lettings & Mortgages: Bampton | Cullompton | Dulverton | Tiverton | London

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ON THE EDGE OF POPULAR

The Beacon brief was enjoys simple. a prestigious Create a design

location tour-de-force. on North Use Hill space, in Minehead use light,

located created in elegance a “no through” with the road focus on onthe

edge quality, of not the cost. Exmoor Use National state of the Parkart

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environmental

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woodland. The property, which offers

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Located in a prestigious location and

accommodation over three floors

positioned to take full advantage of

typifies the elegant Edwardian period

the coastal views, this stylish modern

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stained

and has

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hardwood

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the generous

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rooms with

with

high

extensive

ceilings,

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fireplaces. accommodation of over 3350 square

The feet property, arranged over which three is currently levels.The run

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top floor living space with bespoke

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people who was is equally commission suitable by as the a large owner

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own

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area,

Within

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grounds

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there

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gardens and terrace, double garage

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gardens with a heated swimming pool.

The land rises up into woodland with

Designed to minimise environment

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style

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views

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5.027 utility, acres. life, double garage and gardens.

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Dulverton Office 01398 324818

Minehead Office 01643 700210

Barnstaple/Lynton Office 01271 347861

Ilfracombe Office 01271 863091

South Molton Office 01769 575797

fineandcountry.com

Minehead - £849,950

An opportunity to acquire a home together with an income provided by the four

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Minehead, North Hill - £475,000

A well maintained three bedroom detached split level bungalow residence occupying

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Minehead 01643 706666 | South Molton 01769 574500

Taunton 01823 277121 | Tiverton 01884 243000

Williton 01984 632167 | chaninandthomas.co.uk | gth.net

61 45

Exmoor Magazine is independently

owned and run on Exmoor by Naomi

Marley, Elaine Pearce and Heather Holt.

We are not part of a chain and we are

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the Quantocks and North Devon,

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Editor & Designer: Naomi Marley

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IMPORTANT NOTICE

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rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in

part is prohibited without written permission.

Contents

8 NEWS

18 FARMING

Exmoor's Ambition

Michelle Werrett

23 PROFILE

Full Steam Ahead:

Mike White

Tony James

29 ACTIVE

The Peaky Climbers

Lucy Large

Spring 2019

33 DOWN MEMORY LANE

Gordon Pickard Short:

Going with the Grain

Tony James

39 RECIPES

A Jubilee Inn Twist on

the Cookbook, Nourish

Recipes from Christine Bailey

PRIVACY POLICY

We do not share or sell names, addresses,

phone numbers or email addresses under any

circumstances.

Cover: Waterfall on Hoar Oak Water

by Craig Joiner.

6 Exmoor Spring 2019

88 112

45 LANDSCAPES

The Real Badgworthy

Rob Wilson-North

50 NATURE DIARY

River of the Doones

Julian Gurney

53 ENVIRONMENT PART I

Natural Flood Management

on the Holnicote Estate

Ben Bryant

56 ENVIRONMENT PART II

Upstream Thinking

Morag Angus and Heather Harley

61 THE DANDELION

AND THE BEE

Jane A. Mares

65 PHOTOGRAPHY

Astrophotographer Will Gater

Mel Roach

71 GARDENS

Telling Stories: Plants and

Gardens at Dunster Castle

Rosemary FitzGerald

76 WALKING

Brendon Hill Iron Miners

and Nettlecombe's Great Park

Sue Viccars

88 INTERIORS

Benshayes

Rupert White

92 CROSSWORD

Bryan Cath

93 BOOKS

96 PAST TIMES

Kestrels School

Michele Romaine

101 WILD GARDENS

Orchids

Peter Marren

85 PROPERTY

Exmoor Living

David Lethaby, GTH,

Chanin & Thomas

87 PLANNING LAW

Listed Buildings

Amy Cater, Tozers

104 CHILDREN'S PICTURE QUIZ

Uncle Willow & Ginger Tigger

in Snowdrop Valley

Endymion Beer

107 SPRING DIARY

Compiled by Katy Charge

112 FINAL PAWS

Dogs Trust Ilfracombe:

A Canine Carer's Day

Kayla Maryon

96

71

Exmoor Spring 2019 7

Editor's Letter

HERITAGE

Lorna Doone 150th Anniversary

Welcome to the spring issue! I

usually write this in 'winter', but

as I look out of the window, on

8 January, I see compost everywhere, as

a yet-unidentified culprit wreaks horrid

havoc with my already confused bulbs,

which have all come up!

Meanwhile, my humane mouse trap is

sitting there (please don't laugh), waiting

to be washed, as it's been fully deployed

of late following the greedy assault by

my spare-bedroom mice, 'Gloria' and

'Edwardo', on my Christmas presents.

Apparently, food was so scarce, despite

the crazily mild weather, that they had

to resort to eating organic bath bombs,

socks and soap. Gloria looked like the

most glamorous Beatrix Potter mouse,

whereas the verdict among friends

was that Edwardo (rather plain) may

have been punching above his weight.

So it was without too much regret that

I rehomed them far apart, as I slotted

their respective releases in with journeys

to get out for some walks between proof

stages of this issue. Gloria now lives near

Wheddon Cross and Edwardo's release

took place en route to a walk on Grabbist

in the first week of January, a path

I haven't taken since I was a child.

In fact, it is a walk which I was going to

include as an extra in this issue following

the 170th anniversary in 2018 of the

hymn, 'All Things Bright and Beautiful' –

as many believe (it's a contested point)

that its 'purple-headed mountain' was

inspired by the hill. Bearing in mind the

very steep gradients, however, you may

be glad that Lorna Doone's anniversary

trumped this; as you will see, in this

issue we celebrate much that is Doone

country instead, at the start of the 150th

anniversary year of Blackmore's novel.

In addition to our Doone-packed

features, we interview members of the

Exmoor Hill Farming Network, the Peaky

Climbers (who would no doubt skip

up Grabbist), Gordon Pickard Short,

astrophotographer Will Gater and Rupert

White. We also visit Dunster Castle

Gardens, Dogs Trust Ilfracombe, Knapp

House (formerly Kestrels School) and

the Brendon Hills, for a stunning walk.

I hope that you enjoy all this and more

and that you have a fantastic spring and

Easter. Happy reading!

The 150th anniversary of the publication

of Lorna Doone by R.D. Blackmore in

2019 will be marked across Exmoor by

a series of themed events and activities

which celebrate the link between

the area and the novel, and highlight

our culture, landscape and heritage for

local communities and visitors alike.

The novel, first published in 1869, has

never been out of print since and has

inspired countless films, television

programmes, theatrical performances,

songs, a musical and even a biscuit! The

story includes wonderful descriptions

of the most remote and rugged parts of

Exmoor, events such as The Great Winter

and the Monmouth Rebellion, plus folk

traditions of the notorious Doones and

the highwayman Tom Faggus.

The focal point of the celebrations will

be a major exhibition at the Guildhall

Heritage Centre in Dulverton, running

from April to October, which will be

supported by a wide range of activities.

Dulverton Town Council and Dulverton

Traders are planning a packed, familyfocused

weekend on 29 and 30 June.

Taunton Garrison (top) will be re-enacting

events from the novel in period dress,

accompanied by a narrator. There will

be plenty of live music, children's

activities, a magic lantern show and

story-telling, as well as stalls from local

traders. On the Sunday, there will also

be a large banquet and a film showing

on the lawns.

Exmoor National Park's Learning and

Outreach Officer, Dave Gurnett, has

been running a school trip based on

the Lorna Doone story for over 30 years

and this year more schools are invited

to come and explore this special area

of Exmoor. ENPA will also be running

public events celebrating the landscape

that inspired the novel.

Outdoor groups such as the North

Devon Ramblers are including some

Lorna Doone-themed guided walks in

their programme and Exford-based

tourism business, Wild About Exmoor,

will be hosting themed experiences.

From May to August there will be

literature and art day schools in

Winsford, Exford and Tiverton, organised

by the Workers Educational Association

(WEA), and based upon the novel and

the landscape that inspired it.

The Pleasure Dome Theatre Company

will perform Lorna Doone at the Valley

of Rocks for a fortnight in August.

The Two Moors Festival, which has wide

cultural appeal and attracts thousands of

visitors from far and wide to events

during October, is also getting involved.

The festival's Artistic Director Penny Adie

has commissioned a brand-new work

based on the well-loved story.

The composition will be scored for solo

voices, choirs, instrumentalists and

a narrator and will be performed at All

Saints' Church, Dulverton, on 12 October

by professional musicians and students

from Blundell's School in Tiverton, where

Blackmore himself studied.

Jennette Baxter, Development Manager

for Visit Exmoor, says, "This is a wonderful

opportunity to celebrate our stunning

landscape and its links to this worldfamous

story. It will be a real draw for

visitors from around the world – the

Lorna Doone novel has fans as far afield

as Australia and America. The National

Park will be including a feature on the

festival in their Exmoor Visitor 2019

newspaper and we'll be publicising

the celebrations via our website,

www.visit-exmoor.co.uk. A printed guide

will also be available from the National

Park Centres."

See page 110 for more events.

Photo courtesy of Lycia Moore, Taunton Garrison


LETTERS

Remembering

Granny Yendell

Dear Naomi,

In September of 1975 I consulted

to British Kynoch Metals as an

exploration geophysicist from Toronto,

to help search for copper deposits near

Heasley Mill. I stayed for several weeks

at Crangs Heasley, and enjoyed the

farmhouse accommodation and

hospitality of Mary Yendell (later Moor)

and her mother, who was known to me

as Granny Yendell.

While searching through a scrapbook, doing research for my Memoirs, I found a

newspaper clipping from the South Molton Gazette dated Tuesday 2 September 1975,

entitled 'Hunt for Exmoor copper', with my picture on it. What wonderful memories

came flooding back. And so I went online to check out Crangs Heasley, thinking

perhaps I might visit there again. However, I was sad to find Mary Moor's obituary.

I remember Mary well and how she worried about me like a mother while I stayed

at the farm. Our survey lines went across the hills and through the hedges all around

the farm and I would come back with tears and scratches from climbing through the

hedges and woods in the area. In no uncertain terms Mary on several occasions told

me not to be so shy and drop my trousers so she could dab the antiseptic onto my

leg wounds. And the meals at Crangs Heasley were so welcome after a long day of

surveying. On rainy days, when we stayed close to the farm kitchen, Granny Yendell

and I would spend hours playing Scrabble, and laughing out loud when we would

each use some well-known, four-letter words in an attempt to glean every possible

point. To this day I still have a copy of the Devon W.I. Cookery Book 3rd Edition given

to me by Granny, dedicated to me in her beautiful hand, "Best Wishes from Granny

Yendell, Happy Memories of the Scrabble "words".

One of my favourite pictures of those days is Granny smiling at me in her garden,

straw hat, gloves and garden skirts ready for work (top).

How bittersweet for me to discover Exmoor Magazine's Facebook page and to remember

those fabulous days. I so wish I had had the opportunity to tell Mary before she passed

how much I enjoyed my brief time with her on that farm so long ago.

Jim Haynes

Toronto, Canada (3jays@sympatico.ca)

Thank you so much to Jim for emailing from Canada and taking the time to get his

old Kodachrome slides processed so that we could include two of them here. Of the

image below Jim writes, "Here we were doing Induced Polarization Surveys. I took the

photo so I am not in it and I don't remember the names of the crew members or

exactly where this was, but none of it was very far from Crangs Heasley." Maybe

a reader can identify the local gentleman who is standing? The gentleman with the

notepad was the IP operator (who Jim thinks worked for BKM).

AONB

Nature and Wellbeing

Somerset's Nature and Wellbeing

Project is an initiative focused on three

AONB – the Quantock Hills, the

Mendip Hills and the Blackdowns – which

suppports people who may experience

barriers to access these rich, diverse

landscapes in different ways. The project

provides supported visits, volunteering

opportunities, monitoring and evaluation

and it is funded by Somerset Public Health.

Nature and Wellbeing Officer, Kristen

Lambert, says: "We continue to work with

health and wellbeing partners across the

three areas to ensure more people can

access the various benefits of natural

landscapes."

One of the regular Quantock Hills groups,

'Working Well Volunteers', meet on

a monthly basis. They are a friendly,

supportive practical-task-based group.

There is never any pressure to finish tasks

and the aim is for people to enjoy being

involved in a positive activity, in a

beautiful, varied, natural environment.

Hot drinks and biscuits will be provided,

but volunteers are asked to bring a packed

lunch. Ranger Andy Stevens leads the

groups, with support from volunteer

rangers.

The tasks at the 20 February, 20 March

and 17 April sessions will involve physical

activity and are all outside; instructions,

tools and working gloves will be provided

but sturdy, flat shoes and warm clothes

are required (please contact the organisers

if you need support sourcing these).

For more information, please contact

Dave Topham, Mind in Somerset,

E: david.topham@mindinsomerset.org.

uk or T: 01823 334906.

Photo by Rich Wiltshire courtesy of Quantock Hills AONB

Alternatively, contact Kristen Lambert,

Nature and Wellbeing Officer based

within the Quantock Hills AONB team,

by email: klambert@somerset.gov.uk.

You can also read more online at

www.quantockhills.com/projects.


The Punchbowl by Craig Joiner

ENPA

A Landmark Year for National Parks

by Ailsa Stevens, ENPA Communications Officer

In 1949, in the wake of the end of the

Second World War, the reforming

Government that created our National

Health Service and Welfare State also

created National Parks and Areas of

Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB)

in England and Wales. It was a truly

landmark moment in British history,

born out of a decades-long campaign

to make enjoyment of the nation's most

celebrated beauty spots the right of

every citizen.

Faced with widespread industrialisation,

the expansion of towns and cities, and

the fencing off of vast swathes of open

countryside for farming and sport,

people had become deeply concerned

that the landscapes they knew and loved

were being taken off the map.

Thus a fight for the countryside had

begun, culminating in the 1932 mass

trespass of Kinder Scout, during which

hundreds of protesters proceeded to the

Peak District's highest point. They faced

harsh resistance from gamekeepers,

resulting in violent scuffles and five men

receiving prison sentences. Although, for

many, it must have felt like something of

a victory, it took 17 more years and the

horror of another World War – along

with the mass disruption to acres of

countryside that comes with intense

conflict – for those efforts to translate

into meaningful change.

The breakthrough came in 1947, when

a Government committee headed by Sir

Arthur Hobhouse proposed a framework

for National Parks. Two years later, in

1949, this vision was enshrined in law

as the 'National Parks and Access to the

Countryside Act' and from that Act ten

National Parks were created throughout

England and Wales. They were referred

to by Hobhouse as a "recreational gift

to Britain's returning Second World War

service men and women".

The Peak District was the first to be

designated in 1951 and Exmoor became

a National Park three years later, making

it 65 years old this year. The Hobhouse

Report remarked on Exmoor's "spectacular

coastline, fine heather, bracken and grass

moorland, beautiful wooded valleys,

antiquities in great profusion… including

stone circles, barrows, hut circles as well

as earthworks… notable wildlife… and its

first rate country for motoring, and for

walking and riding." And, for the most

part, those same qualities are what make

Exmoor special to this day.

That same founding legislation also gave

rise to Areas of Outstanding Natural

Beauty (AONB), including the Quantocks,

designated in 1956, and the North Devon

Coast, in 1959.

Now, 70 years on from the creation of

the National Parks and AONB and in

the midst of one of the biggest political

upheavals the country has ever seen,

the Government has commissioned

a new independent review of this

founding legislation to see if it is fit for

the twenty-first century. A panel, headed

up by writer Julian Glover, has been

touring the nation's protected landscapes

to absorb and analyse all that these

special places mean to the nation.

Our National Parks will also be part of

the Government's Year of Green Action

in 2019, aimed at connecting more

people with nature, in celebration of all

that has been achieved to protect these

iconic landscapes in the 70 years since

their founding. This special programme

of events will be launched during

Discover National Parks Fortnight,

which takes place from 6-21 April.

HERITAGE

Historic Gardens Saved

The restoration of one of England's most

important historic gardens, the unique

Hestercombe Gardens near Taunton,

is one step closer thanks to a

£1.5 million grant from the National

Heritage Memorial Fund (NHMF).

The grant has enabled the Hestercombe

Gardens Trust to acquire land totalling

320 acres, reuniting the world-class,

Grade I registered landscape, gardens

and buildings for future generations and

returning Hestercombe to its full size.

What makes Hestercombe so important

is that it combines four complete period

gardens spanning four centuries of

garden design. The newly acquired

land includes the site of a rare, earlyseventeenth-century

Water Garden,

which there are plans to restore,

together with other historic features

within the park. Planted to its original

design, Hestercombe's Formal Garden

is considered the finest example of the

famous collaboration between garden

designer Gertrude Jekyll and architect

Edwin Lutyens.

The move also allows for the possibility

of extending the current contemporary

art gallery in the house to include

outside display spaces. This will affirm

the Trust's ambition to become a

National Centre for Arts & Landscape.

Hestercombe Gardens Trust chairman,

Sir Andrew Burns KCMG, said, "This is

a tremendous vote of confidence in

Hestercombe, recognising Somerset's

leading heritage garden as a site of

outstanding national importance. We

are enormously grateful to the National

Heritage Memorial Fund and our other

funders for their most generous and

timely assistance in securing the future

of Hestercombe for public enjoyment."

Sir Peter Luff, Chair of NHMF, said: "On a

par with Stourhead, Castle Howard and

Blenheim, Hestercombe is an exquisite

landscape with such an important story

to tell in the history of English garden

design. This was a once-in-a-generation

opportunity to restore it in full and one

that the NHMF felt had to be seized."

FIND OUT MORE

www.hestercombe.com


In the heart of the beautiful Exmoor town of Dulverton lies

the Tantivy, a traditional, family-run Shop, Café and Deli,

steeped in the heritage of this gateway to Exmoor National Park.

The large shop offers a range of gifts, deli

items and now a range of luxury frozen

meals prepared within Dulverton by the

renowned Croft & Cottage. We also now

stock an extensive range of delicious infused

olive oils and balsamic vinegars which we fill

in store and can be refilled when used.

The Café offers year-round speciality teas

and Barista Coffees and a menu offering

quality, locally sourced ingredients.

Along with the delightful outdoor courtyard

area, there are ample, relaxed indoor seating

areas for everyone to enjoy our delicious

menu.

In the shop as well as the newsagency,

extensive confectionary ranges and Styles

ice-cream by the scoop, there is a wonderful

array of products and gifts, many local

including:

Wines, Ciders, Exmoor Ales, Exmoor Gins,

Preserves, Honey, Fudge, Biscuits,

Traditional sweet jars, soft drinks, Local

books, OS Maps, walking guides, and an

array of luxury gifts, including Wrendale.

The Tantivy team look forward to

welcoming you to our Shop, Café and deli.

Open 7 days per week

Free Wi-Fi. Fully Licensed

Fore Street, Dulverton,

Exmoor, TA22 9EX

T: 01398 323465

Please check out our brand new website

www.tantivyexmoor.co.uk

Follow us: www.facebook/thetantivy


News

COAST

A Gig for Goose

HERITAGE

Lights

for Longbridge

Photo by Andrew Hobbs

There's a swell of activity and excitement building down at Porlock Weir with talk of

gigs, giglets and the 'Goose'! Since its launch in September last year, Porlock Weir Pilot

Gig Club (PWPGC) has gone from strength to strength and its members are very proud

and excited to be the first gig rowing club based within Exmoor National Park.

The sport of pilot gig rowing stretches back hundreds of years, with gig boats being

used to take the pilot out to sailing ships. Some say the construction of the gigs is a

mix of carpentry, boat building and wizardry! The sport has certainly cast a spell over

Porlock Weir!

PWPGC really has captured the hearts and imaginations of the local community,

and has received incredible support and encouragement with very generous private

financial contributions and grant funding from Exmoor National Park Authority's

Partnership Fund and SASP (Somerset Active Sports Partnership). The club's continued

fundraising efforts and events such as regattas will be used to support charities close to

members' hearts, such as Cancer Research UK and the RNLI, as well as club members

participating in charitable events such as Surfers Against Sewage beach cleans.

With only temporary gig and equipment solutions, the focus has been fundraising to

allow for the purchase of their own 'pre-loved' gig and hopefully to commission a new

gig which the club intends to name Goose in memory of Robert 'Scuddy' Southey.

Scuddy, who grew up around Porlock, was a great athlete and an extremely popular

guy due to his fun-loving, infectious personality. At only 24 years old, he tragically lost

his battle with leukaemia. The club would love to honour his memory by naming

a boat after him and fundraising to support cancer charities.

The club is delighted to have been successful in their bid to purchase the gig Circe

(pronounced 'sir-sea') that was very kindly donated as a deed of gift to the sport's

governing body, the Cornish Pilot Gig Association (CPGA), by the reuniting of

Nankersey Rowing Club and Flushing & Mylor Pilot Gig Club.

PWPGC has raised most of the funds required for the purchase of Circe, but there is

still a way to go before the Goose can take flight, and the club is appealing for donations

and business sponsorships to help make this dream a reality. For sponsorship

packages and support routes, please visit www.facebook.com/porlockweirpilotgigs,

contact club chairman Ben Allerton on 07479 717197 or email porlockweir.pgc@

gmail.com. You could help the club set Goose's bow towards reaching the 2020

World Championships!

Barnstaple's historic Longbridge is now

all lit up with new lights which were

fitted in January.

North Devon Council secured funding

to make improvements to the pedestrian

links from Barnstaple train station to the

town, and has used some of the funds to

install new lights to illuminate the town's

historic bridge.

Barnstaple Longbridge is a thirteenthcentury

stone structure which has been

widened on three occasions to allow

for the changing transport needs of the

town. The lighting project, which has

the support of Historic England,

Barnstaple Town Council and the

Barnstaple Coastal Community Team,

was granted listed building consent

late last year. The work was carried out

by local contractors M&E Alarms, who

installed lights on each of the columns.

Local ward members for Barnstaple

Longbridge, Councillors Des Brailey and

Dick Jones, are pleased to see the new

lights installed. Councillor Jones says:

"It's one of the town’s most iconic

landmarks and we should do more to

show off the town's best features for

residents and visitors alike. The new

lights also complement the new

museum extension and draw more

focus to the Longbridge as the gateway

to the town."

COAST

New Watersports

Centre for Ilfracombe

Contractors with an interest in tendering for the new Watersports Centre in Ilfracombe were

invited to find out more at an information event in January, with a decision on the successful

tender now imminent (keep an eye on our website for news soon!)

Ilfracombe Watersports Centre will be a state-of-the-art marine leisure hub at Larkstone Cove,

boasting community facilities for local watersports clubs with storage for boats and a slipway

providing safe and easy access to the water, along with a commercial café, with stunning views

of the harbour. The project is being funded by the Big Lottery Coastal Communities Fund.


In the heart of Exmoor Country

Burrowhayes Farm Riding Stables

01643 862463

Gift

Vouchers

Available

Escorted rides on Dunkery, Ley Hill & Selworthy

Children’s ponies for parents to walk & lead

Licensed by W.S.D.C • Open from Easter to end of October

Also popular family camping site • Just 1 mile east of Porlock off A39

West Luccombe, Porlock, Minehead, Somerset TA24 8HT

www.burrowhayes.co.uk

OPEN DAY

start your

Adventure

here!

l Rock Climbing

l Mountain Biking

l Canoeing

l Archery

l Stand-Up Paddle Boarding

l Kayaking

l Coasteering

l Tree Climbing

07976 208279

info@exmooradventures.co.uk

www.exmooradventures.co.uk

LOVE

DARTMOOR?

Love Dartmoor

Magazine!

Subscriptions

(four issues a year)

from £10 digital

£18 print

enquiries@

dartmoormagazine.co.uk

Tel: (01647) 441174

www.dartmoormagazine.co.uk

Dartmoor Magazine is

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produced by

JOIN IN the Ultimate

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Bringing all the fun and

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Amazing have-a-go activities

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SATURDAY 16TH & SUNDAY 17TH MARCH | 9AM – 5PM

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Co-educational day & borading: ages 13-18

telephone: 01823 328204

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www.kings-taunton.co.uk

A Woodard School


Photo courtesy of John Bradley

FOOD & DRINK

CareMoor for Exmoor Dining Club Spring Dates

Top chefs are continuing to support the National Park by holding special dining events

showcasing their use of local produce and raising funds to help keep Exmoor special.

The CareMoor events are open to all and visitors who want to sample great locally

produced Exmoor food are in for a treat.

A series of meals under the CareMoor for Exmoor Dining Club banner will take place

at various locations around Greater Exmoor throughout 2019. Each event will have

its own unique menu created specifically to celebrate locally sourced produce. Whilst

highlighting their passion for local food, the chefs are also supporting the National

Park; the ticket price for each event includes a £5 contribution to the donation scheme

CareMoor for Exmoor – helping to keep Exmoor special.

ENPA

Commando Support

for Two Moors Way

Exmoor National Park Rangers recently

teamed up with the Commando

Helicopter Force to move 60 tonnes of

local stone needed for repair work along

the Two Moors Way, near Simonsbath,

in Exmoor National Park.

Two huge Merlin MK3 helicopters from

their 846 Naval Air Squadron collected

the crushed stone in underslung bags

from a nearby farm and delivered them

to an eroded section of path near Wheal

Eliza, which forms part of the Two Moors

Way passing through the starkly beautiful

Barle Valley.

Photos courtesy of Locanda on the Weir

SPRING DATES INCLUDE:

Friday 1 March

Beach Hotel, Minehead

Exmoor Taster Menu (with optional

gin tasting)

Presented by Head Chef Paul Ruttledge

and his team. Price: £28pp.

Add an optional gin tasting £15pp.

Call 01643 704765 to book.

www.thebeachhotel.org

Accommodation is also available.

Thursday 4 April

Dunkery Beacon Country House,

Wootton Courtenay

Flavours of Spring Tasting Menu

Join Head Chef and proprietor John

Bradley for a 'Flavours of Spring'

five-course Tasting Dinner in the

award-winning Coleridge Restaurant.

Price: £45pp.

Call 01643 841241 to book.

dunkerybeaconaccommodation.co.uk


Friday 3 May

Locanda on the Weir, Porlock Weir

Wonders of Exmoor: SPRING

Celebrate the May Bank Holiday with an

Italian twist. Foraged flavours from the

sea, forest, hills and the moors; savour

the new season's bounty. Price: £45pp.

Call 01643 863300 or email

czs@locandaontheweir.com to book.

www.locandaontheweir.co.uk


Thursday 30 May, Friday 31 May

and Saturday 1 June

Duende Restaurant, Wiveliscombe

Exmoor Taster Menu: Celebrate all things

local at this award-winning restaurant.

Head Chef and Proprietor Tim Zekki has

been working closely with Simon and

Alison of Wellhayes Vineyard near

Tiverton to produce a seven-course taster

menu with wine recommendations

in celebration of English Wine Week.

Price: £45pp. Call 01984 624650 to book.

www.duenderestaurant.co.uk

Dan Barnett, Exmoor National Park's

Access and Recreation Manager, said,

"The Two Moors Way is an iconic,

long-distance walking route and it's our

mission to make sure people of varying

ages and abilities can get out and enjoy it.

The path between Simonsbath and Wheal

Eliza is level, dry and easy to use, meaning

it's a great spot for those with young

families, or even Tramper mobility

scooters, to get off the beaten track and

explore this breath-taking landscape.

"It’s great that 846 Naval Air Squadron has

been able to help us get the job done as

part of their training exercise, as to get

the stone shifted over land would have

been considerably more challenging

and costly."

See www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/caremoor for current availability,

information and full details.


St. Margaret’s Hospice

volunteers needed in

West Somerset and

Exmoor

Volunteers are an essential part of the

fundraising team and we are always looking to

add new members to support us in their local

community.

You might want to use your professional skills,

develop new skills or simply get out and about

in the community for a good cause.

It’s important to us that our volunteers

feel their donated time and skills are used

properly, so you’ll know that if you volunteer

with us your donation of your time and

skills will be valued and we have flexible

volunteering roles to suit everybody.

Or perhaps you could join a Fundraising Group

to support the work of the St. Margaret’s

fundraising team in your village or town.

For more information please contact

Susan Bickle, Volunteer Coordinator,

on 01935 709182 or visit the website

and search ‘volunteering’.

www.st-margarets-hospice.org.uk

Registered charity number: 279473


QUANTOCKS

The Future

Halsway

Project

Over the last year exciting developments

have been taking place at Halsway

Manor, the National Centre for Folk Arts.

A new project, 'Future Halsway', funded

by the Heritage Lottery Fund, has seen

Halsway throw its doors open to the

public for various events, all designed

to engage people living locally and to

explore the wider heritage of the manor.

Normally a centre for residential courses,

this project has been an opportunity to

let people explore this beautiful Grade II*

listed building. In September 2018, 200

people visited an open day for a chance

to investigate normally closed rooms,

explore the grounds and read about the

manor's history in newly designed

interpretation material.

There have also been exciting events out

in the community. In August last year

local families joined Halsway and

Quantocks AONB staff for a creative

folklore walk with storyteller Clare Viner.

Walking across the hills and through the

woods, pauses were made for local folk

tales, including the legendary Gurt Worm

of Shervage Wood.

Hundreds of local schoolchildren have

also been involved in the project.

Students at West Somerset College

worked with folk musicians Sam Kelly

and Archie Churchill Moss to learn and

arrange local Somerset tunes. Students at

Danesfield middle school worked on a

dance project with Laurel Swift, leading

to a school dance, and Crowcombe, St

Peter's Williton and Old Cleeve schools

worked on a creative writing project,

Crowcombe schoolchildren out in the woods.

starting with a visit to Halsway and

including a creative day out on the

Quantock Hills (below). They created

amazing stories that featured manors

which came alive and flew over the

hills, dragons, beautiful magical woods

and all manner of secret passageways

and portals!

There have also been creative projects,

from contemporary art commissions to a

poetry residency, with the brilliant poets

Amy Key and Rebecca Perry, who are

creating a new body of work inspired by

Halsway. There was also 'Ladies of the

Manor', an exhibition week about painter

Frances Gair Wilkinson and folklorist

Ruth Tongue.

The library has also been involved, with

a miniature travelling Halsway library

going on a tour of local West Somerset

libraries, to take the collection out to the

wider community.

Alice Maddicott, Creative Lead for the

project, said, "It has been a real privilege

to meet and work with so many people;

to welcome them here and to share the

wealth of Halsway's heritage with its

community.

"The project will continue until the end

of March, but its legacy will continue

beyond this. The final event will be a

community ceilidh on 23 March at the

Pavilion in Williton, to which all are

welcome – a real celebration for what

has been a brilliant and engaging year."

FIND OUT MORE: halswaymanor.org.uk

COMMUNITY

Improved Medical

Centre for South Molton

Work on the new GP surgery premises

in the middle of South Molton reached

an exciting stage at the end of 2018,

as a topping-out ceremony was held

after the roof of the lift was completed.

Dr Chris Gibb commented, "It is fantastic

to see real progress on the new premises

now. Remaining in occupation of the

building during the build has been tricky

but we hope that staff and patients will

excuse the disruption when they see our

exciting new extension open in 2019."

The extension will contain 12 additional

consulting and treatment rooms, as well

as supporting waiting areas. Once the

work is complete, the Medical Centre

will be moving into the new rooms and

the contractor will be refurbishing the

buildings on the street frontage.

It has been quite a challenge for the

contractor, Morgan Sindall Ltd, working

on such a restricted site and carrying out

the building in phases. "By developing

the existing site, the project has kept the

Medical Centre in the heart of the town

which was the favoured location for

patients," commented Ross Hunt of

David Wilson Partnership Architects.

The double-storey waiting-room will

be flooded with light from rooflights

and generous glazing and the highly

insulated building will be topped by

solar PV panels on a green roof.

Work continues during 2019, with

patients and staff moving between the

phases as they are completed.

"Almost doubling our floor space will

enable us to develop and expand the

services we offer patients in the future,

including our training practice role for

future GPs," said Dr Simon Chappell. "We

have already seen the benefits of coming

together as a single practice for the town,

and these new facilities will give us more

space and a working environment that

we can be proud of."


EXPERIENCE THE

BEST OF EXMOOR

AN AUTHENTIC 14TH CENTURY COUNTRY INN

T: 01984 641498

E: INFO@THEROYALOAKINNLUXBOROUGH.CO.UK

NEAR DUNSTER, LUXBOROUGH, TA23 0SH

WWW.THEROYALOAKINNLUXBOROUGH.CO.UK


FARMING

Exmoor's Ambition

WORDS by

Michelle Werrett

Michelle Werrett is a farm consultant

specialising in the integration of wildlife

conservation with commercial livestock

production. She advises on the design

and management of ponds, hedges and

woodland and on pasture management

for farm livestock or horses. She helps

with grant applications and all farm

paperwork.

Exmoor is a landscape to fall in love

with. Sweeping hills of heather

moorland, deep wooded valleys and

a network of fields and hedges combine

to create a land as beautiful as it is rich in

wildlife. It is a land that time has treated

kindly and in places where stones stand

proud among the moor grass, ancient

hedgebanks draw the pattern of early

field systems, or barrows swell on the

skyline, we can hear the voices of our

ancestors whispering in the wind.

The high land is the source of rivers

which are home to otters, dippers

and trout and the clear, bubbling

streams fill reservoirs supplying drinking

water to over half a million people.

These headwaters are destinations for

migrating salmon who run up from the

sea to spawn in the clean, pebbly beds.

The special qualities of Exmoor's landscape

and wildlife are the foundations for a

busy, multi-million pound tourist industry.

Freely available to everyone at any time,

Exmoor is a source of joy and inspiration,

whether you come to watch wildlife,

enjoy recreational activities or simply

to gaze upon all this beauty and just

breathe.

In our appreciation of all this, we must

never forget that most of the land

comprising Exmoor is farmland.

The benefits we all enjoy are really

by-products of livestock farming.

We are dependent upon farmers for the

maintenance and management of this

landscape which, for the most part, has

been created by and for agriculture. The

future of this land is inextricably bound to

the future of the livestock industry.

Farming in the uplands is hard. The soil

is poor, the climate harsh and much of

the land is too steep for cultivation. It has

been calculated that average hill farm

incomes are less than the average UK

wage. Farming that produces such low

returns is heavily dependent upon public

funding. This is a cost to the taxpayer

but, importantly, it gives a degree of

Government control over the direction of

land use and farming practice. In a place

where the landscape, wildlife and historic

importance of land can be more valuable

than farm produce, yet earns nothing,

this seems appropriate.

The decision by the UK to leave the

European Union has left farmers and their

families facing an uncertain future.


The State of Farming in Exmoor 2015

report shows that public funding for

Exmoor farms is 89% of farm business

income. This support currently comes

from the European Union but is due to

end in the next couple of years when

control of public funding for farmland will

revert to our own Government. Brexit is

an unknown destination for us all and for

agriculture, which has enjoyed substantial

support from Europe, the obscure future

means any long-term plans (and land

management is always long term) cannot

be made with any confidence.

In the face of such uncertainty, rather

than waiting to be informed of their fate,

as soon as the split from Europe was

announced, a group of Exmoor farmers

took the initiative to get themselves

together to consider what opportunities

this might present and how they might be

able to influence the outcome. Exmoor is

fortunate in having some very innovative

thinkers and dynamic people who

drive forward ideas and make things

happen.

In a joint initiative between the Exmoor

National Park Authority and the Exmoor

Hill Farming Network (EHFN), a project

was developed to explore a potential

solution. Beginning with a series of

farmhouse kitchen table discussions and

moving on to open meetings in village

halls, they established a broad consensus

from which they created a vision for

what they hoped future support for hill

farming might look like.

Katherine Williams, the Exmoor Hill

Farming Network Officer, was

instrumental in organising meetings and

bringing people together. "We had a

huge response!" She said. "Everyone was

Exmoor Hill Farming Network Officer,

Katherine Williams, and Chairman Dave

Knight (courtesy Western Morning News).

keen to get involved because the future

of farming on Exmoor is important to us

all. Older farmers with their experience

of past schemes wanted to steer future

ones to make things better for the next

generation. There was also a strong

representation from young farmers who

are concerned about their prospects.

Everyone recognised that this was their

one opportunity to influence the future

of hill-farming support."

After six months of discussions Rural

Focus consultant, Robert Deane, collated

the results into a professional report

with costed proposals. He said, "These

proposals aim to be transformative and

progressive, leaving Exmoor's landscapes

in better heart for the next generation.

They are designed to be simpler and less

bureaucratic to deliver, whilst doing more

to enhance Exmoor."

The next step was to get this proposal

seen by people who could have a real

influence on its implementation. Robin

Milton has farmed on Exmoor all his life

and is Chairman of the Exmoor National

Park Authority, as well as sitting on the

NFU Uplands Forum. He also happened

to go to college with Rebecca Pow, now

MP for Taunton Deane. So when he met

Ms Pow on a train recently, he took the

opportunity to show her the draft report.

Her interest was rapt.

"Can I keep this?" she asked. Robin

pointed out that it was only a draft but

her enthusiasm was undimmed. So he

let her have it, feeling fairly confident it

would be passed on to others in DEFRA.

The Exmoor Hill Farming Network

attended a Prince's Countryside Fund

meeting to promote their work, where

they met the Environment Secretary,

Michael Gove. They took the opportunity

to give him a copy of the report, with

the satisfaction of knowing he had a long

train journey home and would want

something to read.

Mr Gove's position as Secretary of State

for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs

put him in the driver's seat for future

agriculture policy and he was clearly

interested in the Exmoor's Ambition

proposals. In June 2018 he visited

Exmoor to find out more.

Dave Knight, chairman of the EHFN,

chaired a meeting in the shed at Cloggs

Farm where Mr Gove was introduced

to a dozen young Exmoor farmers, who

each had two minutes to make a point

to him. There was no one else present,

no advisors or Government officials, just

the young farmers. The mood was very

positive. No one moaned about the

shortcomings of past or present systems

but described how they would like the

future for upland farming to unfold.

I talked to some of those who were

present.


Farming

Dave Knight's family have farmed at

Wydon for 120 years. Half the farm is

moorland on North Hill, a popular area

for walkers and tourists, which is a

designated SSSI (Site of Special Scientific

Interest) and is bisected by the

South West Coast Path. "Moorland

management is very costly, swaling needs

a lot of manpower and anything that

involves using a machine is expensive,"

Dave said. "We want to look after it but

we cannot afford to do it without support."

Sarah Eveleigh, West Ilkerton Farm.

Sarah Eveleigh of West Ilkerton Farm said,

"We want a system we can believe in, that

will encourage us to do something we

will be proud of." Sarah told me that she

came home from college with lots of new

ideas for the family farm. Her father and

mother were very supportive in letting

her try them out but, at the end of the

day, she realised that the traditional ways

worked best. "Grandfathers know what

they’re talking about!" she said. Their hill

farm really lends itself to a low-input,

low-output system with hardy native

breeds. That kind of system works best

for the land and best for the wildlife it

supports but it doesn't produce a large

income. It is, though, just the sort of

farming that creates the characteristic

Exmoor landscape that many of us would

like to see maintained. That makes it

worthy of support.

The basis of the Exmoor's Ambition

proposals is a simple funding scheme

of two components designed to

replace all the current farming and

land-management schemes. The first,

'Good Farming Measures', would be

offered to everyone actively managing

farmland and woodland to incentivise

systems that provide key public goods

and services. It would reverse the current

Basic Payment Scheme tenet of penalising

farmers for creating non-agricultural

habitats and features. Payment would

be offered at a higher rate for land of

higher environmental value.

The second component, 'Enhanced

Benefits Measures', would focus on

driving positive change through resultsbased

agreements. Funding would be

targeted to specific objectives such as

measures to improve wildlife habitats,

protect archaeological sites, invest in a

place-based quality assurance scheme

and support training and innovation.

The scheme should be designed around

the needs and opportunities of the area

and delivered by locally based farm

liaison officers to build trust through

personal contact and develop a sense

of ownership. Schemes work best when

farmers are enthusiastic advocates,

taking pride in what they are achieving.

It is envisaged that the scheme could

be rolled out to other areas of the

country, with local devolution for setting

objectives and delivering activities.

Bill and Matthew Geen, Combeshead

and Barton Pitts Farms.

Bill Geen, who farms with his son,

Matthew, at North Molton, has been an

enthusiastic contributor to this project

from the outset. He is full of praise for

those who have worked so hard to make

it happen. "We are lucky to have some

forward-thinking people on Exmoor,"

he said. "It's great to take the initiative.

There are so many defeatists throwing

their hands up."

Bill's concern is for a future that makes

farming viable for the next generation:

"We need to learn to produce more with

less impact on the environment. I think

there should be investment in research

to develop better techniques and make

farming more efficient. We need to

improve our care for the environment

and our care for people. This could

help us achieve that. Let's get on!

Move forward."

This scheme is innovative in taking a

whole-landscape approach, embracing

farmland, moorland and woodland.

It would recognise the full range of

environmental, social and economic

values of the countryside and support

systems of management that enable

better business planning. Driven by

results, not prescriptions, it would

encourage new thinking by involving

participants, especially the next

generation, in scheme design and

monitoring.

Blackmoor Gate Young Farmers' Club,

with virtually all its members under 18,

are keen to see opportunities for young

people such as themselves to work in

agriculture on Exmoor and they recognise

the importance of upland farming

support in securing that. Hannah Walters,

the secretary, said, "We really hope that

the Exmoor's Ambition proposals will

help achieve a strong future for young

farmers."

Exmoor's Ambition is well named – it is

ambitious – but its overriding quality

is one of optimism, which stems from the

fact that this is a young people's project,

driven by the farmers of tomorrow,

with a focus firmly on the future.

FIND OUT MORE

To read the proposal document, go to

www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk and

search 'Exmoor's Ambition'.

Photo by Dave Roberts.

Pages 18-19 landscape by Adam Burton.


HANDMADE

EXMOOR

by Annabelle

Rare Breed

Middle White Pork

Farmed on Exmoor a quality farm to fork product

Suppliers of Specialist Rare

Breed Pork to hotel,

catering & retail customers.

Also available whole pigs

supplied for hog roasts &

bbqs and half pigs supplied

at very competitive prices

cut to your own

requirements.

www.littleoakfarm.co.uk • Tel 01643 841160

Annabelle is a unique, dedicated

self-taught maker, inspired by a love

of Exmoor. She keeps a Jacob and

Closewool sheep and produces

woven, knitted and felted creations

of all kinds. She also sells an array of

lovely wools and wool tops.

Porlock High Street TA24 8PS

Facebook: search ‘Handmade Exmoor’

Telephone: 07929 600412

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PROFILE

Full Steam Ahead:

Mike White

WORDS by Tony James

PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs


Profile

one crushed stone in the

Mozambique diamond mines,"

"That

Mike White says, nodding at a

mound of rusting metal in a nearby hedge.

"We really must get around to repairing

it before it gets any worse."

As a near-gale blows the rain in sheets

from the hills, gaunt skeletons of a golden

industrial age lie in the nettles or wait in the

deep shade of trees ready to have their glory

restored in what can only be described as a

convalescent home for venerable road-rollers

and traction-engines which have finally run

out of steam.

For the past 12 years, Mike White has been searching for survivors of the halcyon

days of steam traction and gathering them in the sheds and yards of the specialist

lead business he runs on the edge of the Exmoor village of Huish Champflower.

It's a stirring, yet somewhat surreal sight.

There can be as many as a dozen engines in various states of restoration, from

dismembered hulks to stately monsters nearing completion in the workshops,

gleaming with polished brass and slick new paint.

It's not surprising to learn that Mike, a relaxed and friendly chap, is hooked on

steam engines. He mortgaged his house to buy the finest in his fleet, an iconic

agricultural traction engine, at auction for £120,000 and spent another £50,000

on its restoration.

He has lugged them through heaps of permits and paperwork, brought them

in containers from Australia and Africa and on low-loaders from all corners of

Europe. Those that are pitiful shadows of their former selves rough it outside

while Mike searches for secondhand bits, or has them made by specialists at

eye-watering prices.


Profile

Just why he does it seems something of a mystery, even to Mike. "You only live

once," is the nearest he gets to an explanation. "I went to steam fairs as a lad with

my stepfather and things just snowballed from there.

"When I first told my wife Rexy that I wanted to buy a steam engine, she said that

would be ok if I built her a riding arena so that she could run pony classes for the

disabled. So I did just that – and got my engine."

Until the 1950s, Exmoor was traction engine country and many farmers

nostalgically remember the autumn visits of a contractor's engine and portable

threshing machine, which beat the grain from straw that had been drying in ricks,

and fed it into bags.

Before tractors began to appear in numbers on Exmoor by the 1920s, steam was

used for haulage, heavy lifting and even ploughing. Powerful three-geared road

engines could shift loads of 120 tons and steam-rollers were seen on our roads

until the early 1960s.

Indeed, the first of a seemingly unending procession of archaic machinery to

arrive at Huish Champflower was a smallish Aveling and Porter steam-roller,

built in Kent in 1906. Mike found it in Switzerland, as you do, and today it stands

in the corner of his biggest shed, dwarfed by some of his later acquisitions,

but it still has a special place in his heart.

"It finished work in 1963 and an enthusiast rescued it from a scrapyard 30 years

later. We still take it to steam fairs. It's a lovely little engine. I can't see myself

parting with it, even though it's probably worth £50,000."

A recent arrival from Australia in dire need of some drastic TLC is a partially

dismantled traction engine built in Lincoln by Clayton & Shuttleworth in 1913

and one of four sent to Phillip Island off Melbourne, Australia, to grub up trees

during land clearance. "There was an awful lot of paperwork with that one,"

Mike remembers. "There's loads of abandoned engines out there but it's a hell

of a job to persuade them to let you have one."

Once rescued and safe from scrapyard blowtorches, the engines become part

of the family. In a nearby shed, piled high with rusty relics of yesteryear and

mysterious sheet-shrouded lumps of metal, we come across a sorry-looking

engine, minus its seven-foot back wheels, which Mike greets as an old friend.

It is introduced to us as an ultra-rare First World War German army gun

tractor – one of only three in existence – built in 1915 and used to haul guns

to the Western Front. It ended up in Italy after the war and was converted into

a steam-roller in 1920. "I have contacts in Italy who told me about it, and it was

brought back on a low-loader. We were held up in Dover for two days because

five illegal immigrants were found hiding under the engine. There's never

a dull moment!

"We hope to make a start on it soon. We've found some original wheels and

axles and mechanically it's pretty good, although it might not look it. We'll put it

back to its original blue-grey colour and we'll have a lovely engine.

"The boiler is in good condition, and that's very important. Sometimes it can

take years to find second-hand bits and pieces and if there are no drawings of an

engine it can be a real uphill battle. A major restoration can cost a fortune

because stuff has to be made by hand.

"You get some real bargains in Europe. In most countries they don't appreciate

steam engines like we do because they can't take them on the road. Only the UK,

New Zealand and parts of America allow that."

There's big money in steam. Iconic engines with an impressive provenance

have been known to make around £300,000 but, largely due to organisations

like the National Traction Engine Trust, what was once exclusively a rich man's

hobby is becoming more accessible, often because enthusiasts are pooling their

resources.

"I sold an engine the other day to three young chaps who have been saving

for years to buy one," Mike says. "Most people want something they can work


Profile

on – like that." He nods at a sad-looking green road-roller languishing under

a tree. "It's all about a challenge, I suppose."

Currently, Mike's major challenge involves a massive three-speed McLaren

road engine built in Leeds in 1910 but converted into a 23-ton steam-roller in

the 1920s which ended up in Ethiopia in 1937, where it helped to build a new

2,500-mile road system for the Italian dictator Mussolini. Mike bought it sight

unseen from a scrapyard in Tuscany. "I just saw a photograph and knew I had

to have it.

"Putting it back into its original form is a huge job and involves a complete

rebuild because it's absolutely knackered. The only serviceable part is the boiler

and pretty well everything else is being renewed, including the seven-foot rear

wheels and a complete set of gears. We're doing a lot of the work ourselves but

I've had to get specialists in."

Mike loves all his engines, but his unashamed favourite is Royal Chester, which

cost him £120,000 at a hard-fought auction in 2011. It is probably the bestknown

traction-engine in the country and that's because there are literally

thousands of model replicas made by companies like Matchbox and Yesterday's

Models, prized by generations of schoolboys and still sought by collectors today.

The original, in its pristine maroon and gold livery, has an aura of massive power

befitting one of the fastest and strongest traction engines ever built. It's also

one of the last of the line: by the time it was built by William Allchin Ltd in

Northampton in 1923, steam traction was finally losing out to petrol-driven

lorries and tractors.

"People are fascinated by Royal Chester," Mike says. "At steam fairs there are

always model engineers asking for technical details and taking photographs.

We had two guys at the last Great Dorset Steam Fair spending the whole week

measuring every inch of the engine. It's great that there's so much interest."

Royal Chester, like all Mike's restored engines, is no museum piece and it recently

made an epic ascent of Porlock Hill under its own steam. "I had wondered how

the old girl would cope with the steepest A-road in the country," Mike says.

"I needn't have worried. There were six of us with two engines and we made

a day of it. From here, we went to Ralegh's Cross and Sticklepath and then on to

Minehead and we stopped for some chips. At 8mph we caused a bit of gridlock

on the A39 and a few motorists got cross, but most people enjoy seeing an old

engine out on the road. We filled up with water in Porlock and steamed up the

hill with no problems. We came back on a low-loader. That was enough

excitement for one day.

"People are always telling me about more engines. I went after two in France

recently and missed them by a week. I try to convince myself that I've got

enough, but, to be honest, you can never have too many, can you?"

MIKE WHITE LEADWORKS

Mike White's engineering expertise extends beyond antique steam to

his day job as one of the country's top craftsmen in traditional lead and

copper-work, restoring roofs and decorations on churches and historic

buildings.

Recently, Mike and his team of five completed a massive restoration

programme at Exeter Cathedral and they have worked on numerous

Exmoor houses and churches, including at Treborough and Withypool.

The team's skills range from traditional lead casting to modern welding and

stainless steel, plus aluminium and zinc construction. Recent assignments

include replacing the copper roof of an obsolete lighthouse on Lundy

Island (now a holiday-let) and repairing Victorian statues.

For more information on Mike White Leadworks ring 01984 623198.


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Over the hills and come to stay

B&B AT B I C K L E I G H C A S T L E

Unique accommodation

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Spectacular views across

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Comfortable lounge, Sky

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DUDDINGS COUNTRY COTTAGES

Thirteen 4-star holiday

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Indoor pool, tennis

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GABLE LODGE GUEST HOUSE

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Car Park. Free WiFi.

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AWARD-WINNING COTTAGE IN DUNSTER

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Wi-Fi, Netflix, dogs

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info@exmoorcharactercottages.co.uk 07817 698366

THE OLD FARM BARNS

Come and stay in our

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cottages set amongst

rolling, lush farmland.

Dog and child friendly,

petting animals, WiFi.

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RALEGH’S CROSS INN

1300ft up,

stunning views,

B&B, DB&B.

Everyone welcome.

Discount with

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Brendon Hill, Exmoor, Somerset, TA23 0LN

T. 01984 640 343 E. raleghscrossuk@gmail.com

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STOCKHAM FARM

Two luxury holiday

cottages in an idyllic

position in the heart of

the Exmoor National

Park with views over the

Exe Valley. Sleeping 6

and 4. Open all year.

Stockham Farm, Dulverton, Somerset TA22 9JH

T. 07785 901017 E. stockhamfarm@gmail.com

www.stockhamfarmexmoor.co.uk

THE SWAN, BAMPTON

Spacious, comfortable

rooms in the oldest pub

in Bampton. Fresh, local

produce. Ensuite, WiFi,

TV, tea & coffee making

facilities. 6 miles from

Exmoor National Park.

The Swan, Bampton, Tiverton, Devon EX16 9NG

T. 01398 332248 E. info@theswan.co

www.theswan.co

T R I M S TO N E M A N O R

Characterful Country

House Hotel, 3 miles from

Woolacombe & N. Devon

coast. Indoor Pool (Apr-Oct),

Gym, Games Room, Sauna,

Restaurant open Fri/Sat.

Also Holiday Cottages.

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T. 01271 862841 E. info@trimstone.co.uk

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WINSBERE HOUSE BED & BREAKFAST

Friendly B&B from £35

pppn with lovely

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Winsbere House, Dulverton TA22 9HU

T. 01398 323278 E. info@winsbere.co.uk

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WO N H A M B A RTO N

Near Exmoor:

comfortable, friendly

self-catering on a working

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WO O L H A N G E R E S TAT E

Woolhanger holiday

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Contact Leah Streete 01598 763309

Email: holidaycottages@woolhanger.com

Website: www.exmoorcottageswoolhanger.co.uk


ACTIVE

The Peaky Climbers

WORDS by Lucy Large

In the summer of 2015 a group of

four friends from West Somerset

successfully completed the National

Three Peaks Challenge – an endurance

hike that requires competitors to climb

the highest peaks in Scotland, England

and Wales within 24 hours.

Justin Harris, Tom White, John Webber

and Richard Henson – with the essential

support of their driver Richard Parsons –

embarked on this adventure, walking a

distance of 23 miles (37km) and a total

ascent of 10,052 feet (3,064m), with a

driving distance of 462 miles to link Ben

Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon. They

did this in memory of Justin's late wife,

Emma, who had lost her battle with

cancer earlier that year at the age of

just 29.

Although they were already long-standing

friends and regular team mates playing

for Minehead Barbarians Rugby Club,

Justin acknowledges that grief and

beginning to recover from it brought him

and his walking comrades closer together

and gave them a clear purpose – to

raise awareness and money for charities

that had directly helped him and Emma,

but also those offering support for others

facing crisis in the area.

That summer the conditions were

favourable and the team completed their

task in an impressive 19 hours,

57 minutes and 32 seconds! A seed

was also sewn as, buoyed up by their

success and the money raised, the 'Peaky

Climbers' decided to plan a bigger and

better challenge for the following year.

Thus 2016 saw the friends regroup, this

time to tackle the Brecon Beacons Ten

Peaks Challenge with Charlie Walker-Blair

replacing John Webber who had had to

withdraw from this venture. Once again

they were raising money for charity

and prepared with a rigorous training

Top: Three Peaks Challenge team, 2015.

Left to right: Justin Harris, Tom White,

John Webber and Richard Henson.

Above, from left: At the base of Scafell

Pike, Lake District; at the top of Mount

Snowdon; the team's driver, Richard

Parsons, helping with crucial refuelling;

Tom White, John Webber and Richard

Henson at the top of Ben Nevis in July

(Justin took the photo); at the base of Ben

Nevis after completing the first peak.


Active

sustenance and endless encouragement:

he also posted regular live updates on the

group's Facebook page so that their many

supporters could follow progress and

keep donating. That year saw many

experienced fell runners retire from

the Ten Peaks Challenge and the Peaky

Climbers were the only team that

managed to finish. Richard Parsons in

fact gave a lift to two runners who had

to withdraw. When these competitors

heard about the Peaky Climbers and their

reasons for competing they both exited

the race and made hefty donations to

the charities being supported.

Top: The Ten Peaks Challenge, 2016. Left to right: Tom White, Charlie Walker-Blair,

Richard Henson and Justin Harris.

Above, left and right, both on the Ten Peaks, 2016: Tom White and Charlie

Walker-Blair attend to their feet and food; Richard Parsons, Tom White, Justin Harris,

Charlie Walker-Blair and Richard Henson at the finish.

schedule that repeatedly took them up

and down Grabbist, the Quantocks and

North Hill above Minehead, in spite of

them all having full-time jobs and family

commitments. Nothing could have

prepared them for the reality of this

challenge, however. According to one

member, they 'went in blind' following

the success and relative ease with which

they had completed the Three Peaks.

For a start, the weather that summer was

brutal and this ultra-marathon requires

competitors to take in ten of the highest

peaks in the Brecon Beacons, covering

a distance of 89 kilometres with nearly

5,000 metres of ascent, all to be

completed within 24 hours.

Reflecting back on the event, two years

later, the team chuckled at their naivety

the night before the start of the race as

they tucked into venison steaks brought

along for the occasion by team member

Charlie – aware of the envious looks of

their surrounding competitors. The

challenge was gruelling, and each team

member knows they were pushed to their

limits – physically and emotionally – as

they trekked thought the pouring rain,

battling winds of 50-60mph in the final

leg. They acknowledge their strength as

a team, pointing out that as individuals

they would peak and trough at different

stages of the race – when one member

couldn't find the strength to keep going,

the others would rally and provide the

energy or motivation for them. As a band

of four they could also swap walking

companions to keep the team fresh and

able to face the next climb.

The team is particularly clear to point out

that the challenge could not have been

completed without the unfailing support

of their driver Richard Parsons – present

at every checkpoint with fresh socks,

Meeting this band of friends in an

Exmoor pub one autumn evening in

2018 to hear about their charitable

expeditions was a very life-affirming

encounter. An hour of banter and

affectionate teasing revealed a group

of men utterly committed to raising

money for charities that directly help the

isolated communities of Exmoor and its

surrounding area – in the last three years

they have raised in the region of £50,000.

Justin points out that he and others close

to him or within the community have

had experience of bereavement at a

relatively young age and he feels he and

his comrades are fit and able enough to

do something to help raise awareness

and much-needed funds.

After a brief rest in 2017, the lads signed

up in 2018 to face two new challenges:

the first being the Exmoor Perambulation,

a 31-mile trek across Exmoor. This task

saw Richard Parsons joining the walking

team for the first time, supported by the

others. He concedes it was an enormous

challenge and not one he would have

attempted without the encouragement

of his friends. The second challenge that

year would have been the Trailwalker

endurance challenge – 100km across the

South Downs. For this event, Tom White

was replaced at the last minute by Dave

Edwards as Tom was about to become a

father. The event was cancelled, however,

due to the heat.

But the Peaky Climbers don't like being

defeated, and they really don't like letting

supporters and sponsors down. With

very little time to arrange it, wing man

Richard Parsons was assigned the task of

organising an alternative route of similar

distance to ensure the charities relying on

the lads would not be disappointed.

Thus, they found themselves walking

along the coast from Braunton to


Active

Minehead in the extreme heat of July

2018. This route takes in some of the

most stunning scenery the South West

has to offer and also some of the steepest

climbs. Once again, these intrepid hikers

pushed themselves to their very limits.

Fortunately, friends and family were able

to meet them at checkpoints along the

way with gifts of hot food and words of

encouragement. Dave Edwards' father

joined them in the walk for some of

the route, as well as other friends and

well-wishers. It is clear that the incredible

support they get shown by those

following their adventures undoubtedly

contributes to the group's ability to

complete and excel at these challenges.

Here and below: In the blazing heat of summer 2018, the Peaky Climbers walked

the 64 miles from Braunton to Minehead in a time of 22 hours and 10 minutes.

Left to right in the image below left: Richard Parsons, Justin Harris,

Charlie Walker-Blair, Richard Henson and Dave Edwards (who, at the

last minute, replaced Tom White, who was about to become a father).

The team are in the same order in the image below right,

with Richard Parsons taking the photo.

Endurance walking has come to replace

the competitive sports this band of

friends have always enjoyed. It still

affords them the chance to work as a

team; they consider themselves a family

united by this pursuit. Each member

also stresses that the activity is as much a

mental challenge as it is a physical one –

no amount of training can prepare for

the emotional toll of endurance treks.

The commitment these men show to

raising money for charity and giving

back to organisations that have helped

them and their friends is humbling.

Strikingly, though, the commitment they

demonstrate is also overwhelmingly to

each other. Their message, through their

endeavours, is powerful and simple.

They support each other – in terms of

the grief some of them have experienced

first-hand and then explored through

the emotional and physical pain of

endurance challenges. On the occasions

when one member of the gang is unable

to take part in a challenge, another friend

is ready to step in without hesitation,

keeping the team intact. We hear more

these days being spoken about the value

of coming alongside others during times

of despair, depression or grief. This idea

describes the process of accompanying

others on emotionally challenging

journeys without attempting to 'fix' a

problem or distract from the feelings that

need to be felt. Each of the men who

has taken part in one or all of the Peaky

Climbers' challenges over the last three

years has demonstrated a willingness

to walk alongside a fellow traveller, both

literally and figuratively. In doing so they

remind us all that we are not alone in our

fear or doubt, our grief or despair. There

are others willing to journey with us.

POSTSCRIPT

Justin Harris recently received the Ambassador Award from the charity Hope For

Tomorrow, following a complete refit of its bus 'Bumble', which is used to carry

chemotherapy treatment to outlying parts of Exmoor. This was in acknowledgement

of the Peaky Climbers' phenomenal fundraising and Justin accepted it on behalf

of all the lads.

To keep up to date with news of future challenges, go to the group's Facebook

page: www.facebook.com/PeakyClimbersSomerset.

They have been offered a guaranteed place on 2019's Trailwalker endurance

challenge and there has been talk about a European trek in the near future.

Details of the causes which the group has supported can be found at the

charities' own websites:

Hope For Tomorrow (Mobile Chemotherapy Unit): www.hopefortomorrow.org.uk

Mind: www.mind.org.uk

St Margaret's Hospice: www.somerset-hospice.org.uk

Musgrove Maternity Unit: www.tsft.nhs.uk/wards-and-departments/

departments-services/maternity-(pregnancy-and-birth)

Bristol Children's Hospital: www.uhbristol.nhs.uk/patients-and-visitors/

your-hospitals/bristol-royal-hospital-for-children

Penny Brohn: www.pennybrohn.org.uk (and see page 42)


Promotional Feature

FIGHTING BACK

By Tim Price NFU Mutual

Rural Affairs Specialist

Since 2010, when country people joined forces

with police, manufacturers and NFU Mutual to

tackle rocketing machinery thefts, the cost of

rural crime has been kept under control.

However in 2017 we were alarmed to see it on the

rise once again, this time fuelled by a new breed

of determined and brazen thieves who are using

a combination of brute force and technological

knowhow to steal from farms and country homes.

Crime like the theft of a loader often leads to an

even more serious offence being committed. In

the last year we’ve seen loaders used to smash into

village shops to steal cash machines.

As well as causing huge structural damage, these

raids often lead to the shop owners deciding

not to replace the ATM to avoid a future attack.

This leaves rural communities already facing the

closure of local bank branches with a further loss

of access to services.

Protecting the fabric of rural life is what drives

NFU Mutual to support farmers and country

people in the fight against crime. Amid the gloom

there are beacons of light.

However we would like to see more collaboration

between forces. It’s not enough for one county’s

rural crime initiative to simply displace crime to a

neighbouring county. We’re fighting to see crime

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Your local office is the

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NFU Offices, Bank Street, Williton, TA4 4NG

Contact number 01984 633 220.

Agent of The National Farmers Union Mutual Insurance Society Limited.

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Come and visit with no obligation to buy.

The Clock Shop

Tel: 01398 (Dulverton) 323569

101 East Street

South Molton

North Devon EX36 3DF

Clock Repairer

Specialist in the Repair

and Restoration of

Antique Clocks

Richard Werner

Phone/Fax: 01769 579090

Mobile: 0777 6380546

clockshop101@gmail.com

Insurance Valuations

A family run agricultural merchant

based in the south west covering

all aspects of rural life.

Coal and Logs Supplied

Equestrian • Countryside Pursuits

Farming • Home & Garden

WASHFORD MILL, WATCHET,

SOMERSET, TA23 0JY

01984 640412

www.pickards.co.uk

BROMPTON REGIS

near Wimbleball Lake

Visit one of the oldest sites on Exmoor, mentioned in the Domesday Book (1086)

Pulhams Mill

Craft Centre

(OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK)

Genuine Exmoor Gifts

HARDWOOD FURNITURE

by Ian Mawby,

China by

Pauline Clements,

Local and British

Arts & Crafts and gifts.

Celebrating 40 years!

RIVERSIDE TEAROOMS

Pulhams made cakes, puds, lunches weekday and Sunday Roast

For future courses and events go to

www.pulhamsmill.co.uk

on the road from the bridge on Wimbleball Lake towards

Brompton Regis village near Dulverton TA22 9NT

Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun 12.30-5 phone for Jan, Feb opening times

Tel: 01398 371366


You don't often meet a man who

can tell you what happened nearly

a century ago as precisely and

meticulously as if it were yesterday. Nor

would you expect him to be dashing

about Exmoor in a 4x4 and playing

skittles and bowls several times a week.

Anyone who needs convincing that there

can be life after almost ten decades should

meet Gordon Pickard Short. As he strides

from his car, you'd take him for a chap

in his seventies who'd seen a bit of life:

smart, upright and razor-sharp, with

a countryman's glow and a flow of

reminiscences which exhausts a set of

dictaphone batteries.

DOWN MEMORY LANE

Gordon Pickard Short:

Going with the Grain

WORDS by Tony James

PHOTOS courtesy of Gordon Pickard Short

Above: Ernest and Elsie Short

(née Pickard) with Gordon, 1921.

Here: Nigel, Gordon, John and Graham Short

on a family shoot in 2016.

There's a lot to talk about, because

Gordon, at 97, has led an extraordinary

life. Born in Burrington, the North Devon

village in which he still lives, a decorated

Burma war veteran and highly successful

businessman, his heart remains rooted

in the countryside.

He talks about farmers and rural

characters as though they have just left

the room but many have been in their

Exmoor graves for decades. Next minute

he's anticipating an agricultural world of

driverless tractors and lorries, harvesting

controlled by drones and robot-run

offices. "I may not live to see it," he says.

"But it will come."

In fact, during a 50-year chairmanship of

the family firm – he took over from his

father who lived to be 100 – Gordon has

influenced changes almost as profound,

in their own way, as any in his images

of the future.

Under what, one suspects, was Gordon's

benign but pretty uncompromising

influence, J. Pickard & Co. Ltd, agricultural

merchants, has grown and prospered,

and spread far from its roots in the

village of Burrington near Umberleigh,

into West Somerset. Here one of his three

sons runs a sister company, formerly

Badcock & Evered, at Washford Mill near

Minehead, which was taken over by

Pickards in the 1960s.

Gordon officially retired at 90, but from

his home, just a cow-cake's throw

from the firm's imposing village-centre

headquarters, he still visits the office

every day and unashamedly insists

on knowing what's going on.

"I'm proud of the way my sons are running

and developing the business, but old


habits die hard," he says with a smile.

"I ask about how much seed has been

sold and questions like that. I end up

asking to look at the figures and there's

always a deathly hush!

"I think they thought they had got rid of

me at 90 but my father lived to be 100

and never gave up. He was a shareholder

until he died. You can't help taking an

interest."

It's a light-hearted ritual which both

generations obviously enjoy, but for

Gordon there's a serious side. He has

a theory that businesses are vulnerable

when run by a third generation. "It has

happened to hundreds of businesses

around Exmoor – too often to be just

coincidence.

"In Barnstaple alone I could pick out at

least 20 family firms which have failed

for one reason or another in the third

generation and I've always been

determined that it shouldn't happen to

us. Not that I think it will. Pickards is in

safe hands."

Here: Gordon's grandfather, John,

and father, William Ernest, waiting for a lift.

Below: Gordon 'showing off'.

W. Parker waiting for the rabbits to bolt from the corn.

He was from the village and came to work for William Short

at the age of 14. He asked for 5 shillings a week but agreed

on half a crown but to live in on site. He worked all his life on

the farm or in the stores of Pickard's and would have mixed

all the grass seeds that were sold by hand.

Joyce and Gordon in their wedding car.

We're lucky to find Gordon hale and

hearty. At four he collapsed while on

a walk with his grandfather. "The local

doctor put a cold key down my back to

see if I had any sensation in my body and

diagnosed poliomyelitis, which was little

known in those days.

"I saw specialists who said the paralysis

would creep through my body, reach my

brain and kill me. They said prayers for

me in the Methodist chapel, but luckily

a local nurse asked to try a system

of massage, which was a new form of

treatment.

"She massaged me month after month

and life eventually came back into my

legs and through my body. I learned to

walk again when I was eight. I owe my

life to Nurse Garrett, rather than doctors.

There's no doubt about that."

Gordon left school at 14 and spent a year

at agricultural college. "I was about 17

when I began to take an interest in the

business and wanted to know how it had

started."

He found that the Pickard family had

farmed in the Burrington parish since

the 1500s but it was Gordon's greatgrandfather,

James, who was to

dramatically change the family fortunes.

Keen to improve his pasture, James


Down Memory Lane

Here: Wool being graded before packing.

Below left: The bales of wool ready for sale.

Below right: Fertiliser stacked by hand. The older man is Gordon’s dad William (who lived to 100)

and he is standing with a family friend, Donald Browning, who farmed in Dorset.

After the wool was centralised at

South Molton, the firm's wool store was

used for the handling of seeds and fertiliser.


Down Memory Lane

collected perennial rye-grass seed from

neighbours' haylofts and mixed it with

clover seed and meadow grasses to such

good effect that other farmers asked to

buy it.

That was the start of J. Pickard Agricultural

Merchants, in 1846. The seed, known as

'Devon Eaver', was sold for many years,

mixed with timothy, clovers and other

meadow grasses. "Fertilisers and other

products have changed dramatically,"

Gordon says. "But grass seed mixtures are

pretty much the same as they always were."

Gordon's father, William, married into

the Pickard family and joined the firm,

which was now trading in seed, wool and

fertiliser. He took over from Gordon's

grandfather in the 1920s and ran the firm

with a partner, Herbert Embery, who had

a gift for mental arithmetic.

As Gordon tells it, "He could add a long

column of hundreds of pounds, shillings

and pence simply by running his finger

down the figures."

The Pickards transformed Burrington in

a benign, patrician way. The expanding

company brought local jobs. The family

opened and ran a Post Office in 1847 and

when, after years as a tenant, Gordon's

grandfather bought Homelands Farm in

1907, he put up an imposing mansion,

Hillcrest, in the next field and surrounded

it with bowling greens.

While the village drew its water from

springs and relied on oil lamps and

cesspits, Homelands and Hillcrest had an

electrical generator, their own sewerage

system and modern conveniences. Later,

a more powerful generator was fitted

which also supplied electricity to all

houses in the village for many years.

Top: A welcome break from

haymaking, 1930. The lady

closest to the camera is Joyce,

the child eating is Gordon and

the gentleman at the end,

sitting, is W. Parker.

Second from top: Gordon's

grandfather, John, his father

William and a friend from

Torquay, Bobby Rintoul, 1930s.

Above left: Gordon's father's

first car, a bull-nosed Morris.

Above right: Gordon in uniform.

Right: Gordon and his father

sitting on the watering trough.

The golden summers between the wars

were a magical time for a country boy.

"We always looked forward to harvest.

Corn was cut by a binder pulled by three

horses and rabbits would bolt from the

centre of the fields.

"We loved to watch corn being handpitched

up into the ricks and joined the

workers when they had a welcome break.

Riding in a car was a novelty – my

grandfather had one of only two in the

village and was known to be a slow and

cautious driver.

"There was a story that when he stopped

one day to offer a lift to a man walking


along the road to Chulmleigh, he replied:

'No thank you sir. I'm in a hurry'."

The social event of the year was

Burrington Fair with its sheep and cattle

auctions, which brought buyers from

throughout the South West. Gordon

remembers, "It was an important time for

Pickards because many Exmoor farmers

would make their annual payments for

the goods they had bought the previous

spring.

"My mother and my auntie Polly would

cook joints of beef weighing over 50lbs

each and serve it to the customers who

came to pay their accounts and there was

enough to feed over 400 people.

"Those were the days when a country

worker got £1 a week for a 12-hour day.

On the other hand, they could buy

a hundredweight of coal from my

grandfather for just one penny!"

"When I joined the firm, the daily routine

was to attend markets with my father and

I remember the pens of sheep and cattle

and the horses and carts.

"Farmers would gather in pubs and cafés

and exchange news and gossip. Discussing

the First World War with my father,

who had served as an officer, one

Exmoor farmer remarked: 'I don't know

what our secret service were doing.

You never heard anything about them.'

"When my father replied: 'If you'd known

what they were doing, it wouldn't have

been secret,' the farmer said, 'I hadn't

thought of that.'

"All business was done in the markets.

My father wrote farmers' orders down

on a cigarette packet. Things were very

different then and all you needed was a

handshake to close a deal.

"Grading, sorting and packing Exmoor

wool was an important part of our

business. Remote farms on the moor

still had open fires, no electric light and

a pump over a well, but we were always

well fed and made sure we finished

packing the wool before 1pm so that we

would be asked for lunch. Chicken or

duck from the farm was usually on the

menu."

Gordon remembers how wool was

laboriously baled after being trodden by

foot into suspended sacks. "Wool before

the war was fourpence farthing a pound

This photo shows Gordon's father, William, settling a dispute as to which was his

father's winning shot. Gordon writes, "Father must have just returned from

market, as he was certainly improperly dressed to be on a bowling green."

Bottom right: Gordon at 96.

and during the war Exmoor farmers

stored it for six or seven years, by which

time it had risen to a shilling a pound

– if the rats hadn't got at it!

"Eventually the trade was taken over by

the Wool Board and by then we were

dealing with over a million pounds

weight of wool a year. We were the last

local wool merchants to accept

compensation.

"It was the end of an era. The work was

heavy and hard and you could spend

at least two days wool-packing at a farm,

but it was part of our history."

The takeover of Badcock & Evered over

in West Somerset by Pickards in the

mid-1960s largely came about when it

became apparent that both firms

were servicing many of the same Exmoor

farmers – Pickards buying their wool and

B&E supplying seeds and fertiliser.

B&E's HQ, Washford Mill, which once

supplied flour to the monks at nearby

Cleeve Abbey, was later converted into

shops and a restaurant, opened by the

Princess Royal in 2001. Since then, there

have been plans to convert some of the

buildings into houses.

Gordon might claim he's "beginning to

wobble" but there's no sign of it. Ever

since the distant days when he pushed a

portable generator on pram wheels into

Burrington Village Hall to power a

projector for Friday night films, he's found

time for a massive amount of community

work, from being a Devon county

councillor and a governor of local

schools and colleges to his roles as a

tax appeal commissioner and crop

competition and ploughing-match judge.

A former county player and ex-president

of Devon Bowling Association, the game

remains a lasting passion. Gordon still

plays an average of two games a week

and recently formed a team of players all

in their late nineties.

"If anyone of a similar age feels like taking

us on, I'll present a cup to the winner,"

he tells us. From the look in his eye,

it's not a challenge to be taken lightly.

He's recently written a self-published

autobiography, The Story of a

Countryman, giving it away, but

accepting donations for Burrington

Village Hall and Burrington Graveyard

Trust. If you would like to order

a copy, please write c/o J. Pickard & Co.

(Burrington) Ltd, Burrington,

Umberleigh, Devon EX37 9JG.

Grateful thanks to the printers of the

book, Jamaica Press in Bideford,

for supplying the image scans for

this article. You can contact Washford

Mill on 01984 640412.


THE

JUBILEE INN

WEST ANSTEY, SOUTH MOLTON,

DEVON, EX36 3PH

We warmly welcome you this Spring to our

relaxed homely Inn where you can enjoy log

fires, fine wines and ales with honestly priced

home-cooked food. Offering a traditional menu

and a “secret menu” (when booking you tell us

what you like and a budget and we create a

bespoke menu for your enjoyment), we offer

something a little bit different. We are able to

host and cater for weddings, other special

occasions and charitable fundraising nights.

Open 7 nights a week and all day at weekends

and holiday periods, we offer beautifully

appointed en-suite guest rooms, and support our

local Devon guests as well as international

travellers keen to enjoy country pursuits –

walking, hunting, shooting and fishing. Dog and

horse friendly. Booking for dining and

accommodation strictly by appointment.

Please email for further information and best rates.

Telephone 01398 341401 • info@thejubileeinn.co.uk

As a private home we are strictly by reservation only for dining and staying guests.

The Black Venus Inn

Liz, Marc and family welcome you to the

Black Venus Inn, situated in the beautiful

village of Challacombe, on Exmoor.

Historic 16th century beamed Inn

Excellent home made food using

local produce

Food served seven days a week

throughout the year

Beer garden and large car park

Open all day during school holidays

Challacombe, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4TT

Tel 01598 763251

www.blackvenusinn.co.uk

Morning coffee with homemade cakes & biscuits.

All-day menu for all tastes (11am-4pm)

Award-winning Gallery restaurant,

specialising in seasonal produce for evening dining.

Daytime courses on

sourdough, bread-making, chocolatiering and flower design

Three-monthly comedy nights with Genius Events.

We work closely with Exmoor National Park and their CareMoor events.

Next CareMoor event: 1st March

Find out more:

www.thebeachhotel.org • www.facebook.com/thebeachhotel

The Avenue, Minehead, Somerset TA24 5AP

Situated on Minehead Sea Front and opposite the West Somerset Railway

STORM IN A TEACUP

Come and enjoy our homemade, freshly prepared breakfast, lunch,

cream teas and cake in beautiful Watermouth Harbour. Our tastefully

restored rescue boat awaits you with a warm welcome.

Open March onwards 9.30am-5pm

Facebook: ‘Storm in a Teacup - Watermouth Harbour’ 07846 496069

Photo from Exmoor Magazine, Autumn 2018, by Andrew Hobbs

WWW.WICKEDWOLFGIN.COM

Award-winning Hand-made Preserves

'Makers of Whortleberry Jam for 34 years -

served and sold in many shops and tea rooms

across Exmoor & North Devon'

Visit us at

the various

events we

attend

during the

year

‘Wicked Wolf ® ’, ‘Exmoor Gin’ and ‘The Spirit of Exmoor ® ’ are trademarks or registered

trademarks of ‘The Old Chapel Brendon Limited’ registered in the UK.

SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR DETAILS

www.brendonhillcrafts.co.uk • Tel. 01271 346111


RECIPES

A Jubilee Inn Twist

on the cookbook, Nourish

RECIPES from Christine Bailey

for Penny Brohn Cancer Care

Regular readers of Exmoor Magazine may remember the remarkable story of Claire Sellar-Elliott,

owner of the Jubilee Inn, near South Molton, which we published in the spring issue 2018.

An accomplished chef and a woman with boundless positivity, who is living with a terminal cancer

diagnosis, Claire is a passionate advocate of eating well to help her own body. When she discovered

the specialist cookbook, Nourish, she quickly became a big fan of the recipes, created by Christine

Bailey. Claire also serves them, often with her own twist, at the Jubilee Inn where a warm welcome

and a healthy repast are guaranteed to leave you feeling better than when you arrived!

Here are some of her favourite recipes from the book...


Garlic & Bean Soup with Pesto

SERVES 4

Italian Crackers

and Bean Dip

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

250g flaxseeds

50g almonds

1 red pepper, deseeded and chopped

1 tomato, chopped

1 egg

zest and juice of ½ lemon

60g pitted black olives

1tbsp chopped basil leaves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE CURRIED BEAN DIP

400g tinned cannellini beans, drained

and rinsed

1tsp turmeric

2 cloves garlic

½tsp ground cumin

1tbsp lemon juice

2tbsp olive oil

1tbsp chopped parsley leaves

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/

Gas 2 and line a baking sheet with baking

parchment.

Grind the flaxseeds and almonds in

a food processor until fine. Add the red

pepper and tomato, and process until

combined.

Add the egg, lemon zest and juice,

then season with salt and pepper.

Process to form a thick dough.

Briefly pulse in the black olives and

stir in the basil.

Using a spatula and damp hands,

spread the mixture onto the baking sheet

to 5mm/¼in thick, then shape into a

square. Score lines to make individual

crackers. Bake for 40-45 minutes until

golden and crisp.

Put all the ingredients for the curried

bean dip into a food processor and

season lightly. Process until smooth.

Add a little extra oil if needed.

Break the flaxseed mixture into

individual crackers along the score lines

and leave to cool on a wire rack. Serve

with the dip. (Store the crackers in an

airtight container for up to 4 days. Store

the dip in the fridge for up to 3 days.)

INGREDIENTS

1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled

2tbsp olive oil

450g vine-ripened tomatoes, quartered

400g tinned borlotti or kidney beans,

drained and rinsed

700ml vegetable stock

1tbsp lemon juice

sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

FOR THE PUMPKIN SEED PESTO

30g shelled pistachio nuts

30g pumpkin seeds

2 large handfuls of basil leaves

1 handful of mint leaves

1 garlic clove, crushed

2tbsp nutritional yeast flakes

(optional)

2tbsp lemon juice

2-3tbsp olive oil or walnut oil

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Put the garlic cloves in a roasting tin, add the olive oil and toss to coat, then

roast for 15 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and roast for 10-15 minutes, until the garlic is lightly golden

and the tomatoes are soft.

Put the garlic, tomatoes, beans and stock into a blender or food processor and

process until smooth. Pour into a saucepan and heat gently until warmed through.

Add the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

To make the pesto, put the nuts and seeds in a food processor and process until

finely ground. Add the herbs, garlic, yeast flakes (if using), lemon juice and a pinch

of salt and process. Drizzle in the oil with the machine running, to create a thick

pesto. (Store the soup in the fridge for up to 3 days. Store the pesto in the fridge

for up to 1 week.)

CLAIRE'S TWIST

"I like to use use pine nuts instead of the pistachios and I also combine them

with some cashew nuts as I love their creamy texture."

CLAIRE'S TWIST

"I use 20g chia seeds mixed with

80g flaxseeds for added energy."


Recipes

Baked Sea Bass with

Olives and Tomatoes

SERVES 4

Chicken & Cashew Nut

Stir-Fry (Page 39)

SERVES 4

For this super-quick dish, strips of

chicken flavoured with coriander

and lime are tossed with a colourful

medley of vegetables and toasted

nuts. Choose organic chicken if

possible to reduce your exposure

to added hormones and antibiotics.

Serve with buckwheat or wholewheat

noodles.

INGREDIENTS

60g cashew nuts

1 egg

1tbsp cornflour

450g skinless chicken breast fillets, sliced

1tbsp olive oil or coconut oil

4 spring onions, sliced

100g mangetout, trimmed

1 pak choi, leaves separated

1 yellow and 1 red pepper, deseeded

and sliced into strips

150g shiitake mushrooms, sliced

4tbsp chicken stock

juice of 1 lime

2–3tbsp tamari

2tbsp coriander leaves


INGREDIENTS

½tsp coriander seeds

1tbsp olive oil or coconut oil

1 red onion, roughly chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

leaves from 3 thyme sprigs, plus 1 small bunch of fresh thyme sprigs

115g pitted black olives, roughly chopped

60g sundried tomatoes in oil, drained and roughly chopped

16 cherry tomatoes

1 large sea bass or trout, head removed, scaled and gutted

zest of 1 lemon

olive oil, for drizzling


METHOD

Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Toast the coriander seeds in a dry

frying pan over a medium heat for 1 minute, then crush using a pestle and mortar.

Heat the olive oil in the frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onion,

coriander and garlic, and fry gently for 2–3 minutes until the onion starts to soften.

Stir in the thyme leaves, olives and the sundried and cherry tomatoes.

Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a large, shallow ovenproof dish.

Using a sharp knife, slash the skin of the fish diagonally along each side and

push sprigs of thyme into the cuts. Sprinkle over the lemon zest, then put the fish

on top of the tomato mixture.

Drizzle over a little olive oil and cook in the oven for 20–25 minutes, until the

fish is cooked through.

CLAIRE'S TWIST

"I double the garlic and blend half of the sundried tomatoes in a blender

or blitzer and chop the remaining. This makes a heartier sauce."

METHOD

Lightly toast the nuts in a dry frying

pan over a medium heat for 1 minute,

stirring, and set aside.

Put the egg into a large bowl, add

the cornflour and a pinch of salt, and

whisk to combine. Add the chicken and

coat with the egg mixture.

Heat a frying pan or wok with the

olive oil over a medium heat. Stir-fry the

chicken for 4–5 minutes until golden,

then remove with a slotted spoon.

Add the spring onions and stir-fry for

a few seconds. Add the mangetout, pak

choi and peppers, and stir-fry for

1 minute or until just softened.

Add the chicken, mushrooms, stock,

lime juice and tamari to taste. Simmer

for 1 minute or until the mushrooms

have softened.

Stir in the nuts and coriander, then

season with salt and pepper and serve.

(Store in the fridge for up to 3 days.)

CLAIRE'S TWIST

"I use regular, scented coconut oil as

I much prefer it to any olive oil in this

dish, as it's creamier and nuttier, whilst

also being mild. I garnish the dish with

fresh parsley or oregano."


Super-Berry Yoghurt Sorbet

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

200g natural yoghurt, soya yoghurt or coconut yoghurt

1-2tsp acai berry powder (optional)

125g strawberries

125g raspberries

225g fresh or frozen cherries, pitted

Gooey

Chocolate and

Raspberry

Pudding

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

oil, for greasing

125g wholemeal plain flour

or gluten-free flour mix

2tsp baking powder

1tbsp cocoa powder

1tsp vanilla extract

125g apple purée

125ml soya milk

1tbsp xylitol

150g raspberries, plus extra to serve

(optional)

FOR THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE

2tbsp xylitol

1 heaped tbsp cocoa powder

METHOD

Put all the ingredients into a blender or food processor and process until smooth.

Pour into a shallow freezerproof container and freeze for 2-3 hours until firm.

Remove from the freezer 30 minutes before serving to allow it to soften slightly.

(Store in the freezer for up to 3 months.)

CLAIRE'S TWIST

"I add 75ml of an Exmoor gin, a tiny bit of fresh mint and a squeeze of lime juice."

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas

4 and lightly grease a 20cm baking dish.

Sift the flour, baking powder and

cocoa powder into a bowl, then add in

the sievings if you wish.

Mix together the vanilla, apple purée,

milk and xylitol, and beat into the flour

mixture. Stir in the raspberries, then

spoon into the baking dish.

Combine the sauce ingredients with

400ml boiling water and pour gently over

the batter. Do not stir the liquid in – it

will seep in as it cooks.

Carefully put the dish in the oven and

bake for 35–40 minutes until the pudding

is firm on top but with a gooey chocolate

sauce underneath. Serve with extra

raspberries, if you like. (Store leftovers

in the fridge for up to 2 days.)

CLAIRE'S TWIST

"I add a few drops of orange essence

with the vanilla and some chia seeds

with the raspberries."

Eating well is important when you are living with cancer, before, during and after treatment. Often, though,

you may feel too tired, ill or stressed to prepare a balanced and nutritious meal, or you may not feel like

eating at all. Nourish, brought to you by the team at Penny Brohn UK, shows you how to create simple meals,

snacks and drinks that are packed with nutrients to support your body. And, if you are cooking for a loved

one, you can rest assured that you will be providing the best possible meals to make them feel better.

The mouth-watering recipes are user-friendly, quick to prepare, highly nutritious and are designed to bolster

energy levels throughout the day.

Penny Brohn UK is the only charity in the UK specialising in an integrated, whole-person approach to cancer,

known as the Bristol Whole Life Approach. Find out more about the charity at www.pennybrohn.org.uk, and

visit www.shopatpennybrohn.com if you would like to order the book (inside which you can read about the

specific benefits of the recipes on these pages and many others to suit all tastes).


Traditional English Tea Rooms and Gardens

The best veg you’ve ever tasted

Call your local veg team Tom & Hilary on 01823 218408

riverford.co.uk

Tarr

Farm Inn

Tarr Steps, Dulverton, Exmoor, TA22 9PY

+44 (0)1643 851507

enquiries@tarrfarm.co.uk

OPENING HOURS

Monday to Friday 11am to 11pm

Saturday & Sunday 11am to Midnight

Dogs Welcome

21 Fore Street, Dulverton, Somerset, TA22 9EX

01398 323 697

Trenchermans pub of the year 2016

The Swan is the oldest pub in the charming historic town of Bampton,

near Exmoor National Park, an area well known for its hunting, fishing,

shooting and popular with ramblers and cyclists.

Great Food :: Great Location :: Great Welcome

We have a passion for food and with this we like to embrace the use of

local produce, keeping menus simple, yet bursting with flavours and

imagination. We take pride in our well kept, locally sourced ales and fine

wines, to whet the appetites and suit all tastes.

Eat, Drink & Sleep at The Swan, Bampton

www.tarrfarm.co.uk

Midweek

Specials

Sunday - Thursday

Book 2 nights

get one FREE!

T&C apply

T. 01398 332248 E. info@theswan.co www.theswan.co

Bampton | Tiverton | Devon | EX16 9NG


Celebrate the 150th anniversary of 'Lorna Doone' by staying

at Millslade Country House, Anna and Simon's luxurious bed

and breakfast in Brendon, the very heart of Doone Country.

Having undergone an extensive refurbishment during the winter of

2018-19, we are now able to offer the very best bed and breakfast

accommodation: beautifully appointed and spacious rooms; all new en

suite facilities; scrumptious breakfasts and splendid hospitality.

Evening dinners and afternoon teas showcasing the best Exmoor

produce available by arrangement.

Come and experience the warmth and charm of the original Lorna

Doone Hotel, opened in 1889 following the publication of

Lorna Doone, a romance of Exmoor.

Perfectly positioned in the heart of the village of Porlock,

ideal for exploring both the moor and the rugged coastline.

We offer fresh, locally sourced food cooked to order in our bar,

restaurant and courtyard garden and we are open to welcome

locals, visitors and special events or private parties.

For bookings call us on 01598 741322

or email: millsladebnb@gmail.com.

Further details are available at: www.millslade.co.uk

Porlock, TA24 8PS 01643 862404

www.lornadoonehotel.co.uk

info@lornadoonehotel.co.uk

Stay a little longer in Lorna

Doone country

THE STAGHUNTERS INN

BRENDON, EXMOOR, EX35 6PS

lorna doone something like this?.indd 1 20/12/2018 12:05

Runner up

North Devon

CAMRA Pub

of the Year

Heddon Orchard Bothy

Stay active outdoors this spring in self-catering

accommodation with a difference. From our back-to-basics

bothies to our spacious bunkhouses with large communal

areas to relax and dine in, all located in some of Exmoor’s

most dramatic landscapes.

To find out more:

bit.ly/bothiesbunkhousesdevon or

email

northdevon@nationaltrust.org.uk.

The Exmoor Bunkhouse

Foreland Bothy

Butter Hill Barn

The National Trust is an independent registered charity, number 205846. ©National Trust Images/Trevor Hart,

Mike Henton

u The Staghunters is a traditional, historic Inn,

nestling on the banks of the East Lyn River in

the beautiful Brendon Valley

u Ideally situated for walking the South West

Coast Path and Coleridge Way

u Perfect location for walking Exmoors beautiful

Doone Valley, Watersmeet and Lynmouth

u Comfortable en-suite accommodation

u Excellent home-made meals, real ales and

fine wines served daily

u Beer garden overlooking the East Lyn river

u South facing landscaped garden available to

hotel guests

u Log fires through the Winter

u Dog friendly

u Off road parking

Opening hours 12 noon until 11 p.m.

e-mail: stay@staghunters.com

www.staghunters.com • Tel: 01598 741 222


LANDSCAPES

The Real Badgworthy

WORDS by Rob Wilson-North

PHOTOGRAPHS by Julia Amies-Green, Kieran Hanlon,

Neville Stanikk and Nigel Stone


Landscapes

I

n Lorna Doone, R.D. Blackmore

set his isolated and lonely Doone

village in a hidden valley high on

the moor. Here archaeology and romantic

fiction meet face to face. Most of us claim

to have read or to know the story and it

has reached notoriety in English literature.

On Exmoor, it divides opinion: fact or fiction?

Legend or nonsense?

The origin of the Doone legend is obscure, but it existed by the early-nineteenth

century. It focuses on a band of outlaws – the Doones – who were supposed to

have been descended from a noble family of Scottish origin. The legend claims

that they were busy on Exmoor in the 1600s, robbing and pillaging the locals.

This is a great story, despite the lack of any contemporary corroboration! Yet

somehow, it is a story that tantalises, mainly because Exmoor has been seen for

a long time as beyond the law... for example, by the very early 1800s it had an

established reputation for smuggling, with a group known as the 'banditti'

terrorising Simonsbath.

Richard Blackmore, living at his father's rectory at Oare, knew of the legend of

the Doones, and it inspired his historical novel Lorna Doone which was first

published first in 1869. It went on to become a national treasure, devoured by

the nation's readers on a huge scale.

The novel is drawn against the upheaval of the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685

(in which Exmoor became, albeit obliquely, involved). The hero is John Ridd of

fictional Plover's Barrows Farm near Oare. It is tempting today to stand on the

ruins of Larkbarrow Farm on the high moor on a sunny day in early spring and

listen to the skylarks hovering and singing overhead, and to come to the

inevitable conclusion that Blackmore drew inspiration from this place and

its exquisite name.


Landscapes

John Ridd's father is murdered by the Doones and John returns from school to

run the farm. By chance one day he wanders into the Doone valley and meets

the beautiful Lorna. They are instantly drawn together and begin an illicit

friendship which risks the wrath of the evil Carver Doone, who both murders

John's father and is also betrothed to Lorna. The novel charts John and Lorna's

relationship and eventual marriage, at which Carver shoots at Lorna through the

church window. He flees, pursued by John Ridd, and is then engulfed in one

of Exmoor's bogs known as the Wizard's Slough.

Blackmore's romance makes full use of Exmoor's evocative placenames, such as

Cloven Rocks and the Devil's Cheesewring, but his descriptions of the landscape

convey a scale which does not sit comfortably with Exmoor's gentler, more

sublime character. His Doone village in its fortress-like valley – Badgworthy Water

– evokes Glencoe rather than 'Glen Doone'. Scale apart, a walk into the 'Doone

Valley' set in 'Doone Country', as the Ordnance Survey had it for many years,

was a cultural pilgrimage for many during much of the twentieth century.

The well-known 'Doone village' itself can be found at the confluence of

Badgworthy Water and a narrow neighbouring valley. It is a strangely beautiful

place where the valley slopes are scattered with patches of scree (very Scottish)

and natural hillocks occupy the valley floor, creating an enclosed, possibly

fortress-like feel. If that was not enough, there are the traces of stone walls,

Top, left to right: Badgworthy Water

(Neville Stanikk); some of the steeper valley sides

are densely wooded; Malmsmead (both Julia

Amies-Green).

Above: Yealscombe Wood beside Badgworthy

Water (Neville Stanikk).

Page 46 under intro. and below: A glorious

setting for the church at Oare and a panorama

of the Oare Water valley from North Common

(Nigel Stone/ENPA and Neville Stanikk).


forming little rectangular buildings. Set on

the riverbank, they bring to mind Blackmore's

description of Lorna's home:

For she stood at the head of a deep green

valley, carved from out the mountains in a

perfect oval, with a fence of sheer rock standing

round it, eighty feet or a hundred high; from

whose brink black wooded hills swept up to

the skyline. By her side a little river glided out

from underground with a soft dark babble...

But further down on either bank were covered

houses, built of stone, square and roughly

cornered, set as if the brook were meant to be

the street between them. Only one room high

they were, and not placed opposite each other,

but in and out as skittles are, only that the first

of all, which proved to be the captain's, was a

sort of double house, or rather two houses

joined together by a plank bridge over the river.

This wonderfully evocative and detailed description can be traced on the ground

as you pick your way amongst the stone heaps of little rooms and walls.

It is hardly surprising to find that what is on the ground accords so well with

Blackmore's description, for it was precisely here that Blackmore himself

wandered and found inspiration for his Doone village in the wildness, the

streams and the ruins at Badgworthy.

In truth, what Blackmore had discovered for himself were the remains of a

village; not a brigand's hideout of the 1600s but a village of medieval houses

belonging to a remote little farming community that lived on the edge of Exmoor

in the 1300s. In 1170 this land was given to the Knights Hospitallers, under

whom the village presumably came into existence, but was described as

previously 'the land of the hermits of Badgworthy'. Quite what this lonely

monastery looked like we don't know, as no trace of it survives, but what we do

know is that by the 1200s there was a priest, named Elias, and a chapel within

a secular village. However, by the early 1400s houses were empty and tenants

could not be found to live there. The place became abandoned, probably

because of a deteriorating climate, and perhaps because it was easier to live

elsewhere where rents had become lower due to the Black Death. Whatever

the reasons, the village died, although a single holding may have endured;

in any event, one house was occupied at the very beginning of the 1800s.


Today, if you go there in May before the bracken sprouts up and hides the ruins,

you can find the traces of 12, 13 or maybe 14 buildings. This is a big village and

is scattered in the folds of the valley on either side of the stream which joins

Badgworthy Water. Old fields run up the slopes whilst terraces run along the

hillside and they are testimony to medieval farmers growing cereal crops here

when summers were warmer. In fact this village – its houses, fields and terraces –

is a complete, relict medieval landscape, the best on Exmoor and one of the

best preserved of its type in the South West.

For me, a trip to Badgworthy is a walk back in time to a medieval community

who lived and farmed in the harshest of environments and who eventually lost

that battle and left their homes to slip away into the landscape that they had

called home. It is also a trip to a different time: perhaps a spring afternoon in

the 1860s where a disgruntled figure is hunched upon a rock, scrutinising his

surroundings and occasionally scribbling into a battered notebook... an as-yet

unwritten book that was to become a bestseller, propelling this writer to fame.

Above, left and right: Robbers Bridge

( Julia Amies-Green); looking up Weir Water

from the south (Kieran Hanlon).

Below, left to right: Heather moorland dotted

with hawthorns meets the woodland at

Badgworthy Water (Craig Joiner); the road

to Oare ( Julia Amies-Green); Leeford ( Julia

Amies-Green); oaks beside Badgworthy Water

(Neville Stanikk); looking down the valley in the

direction of Dunkery at the height of summer

( Julia Amies-Green); Church of St Mary,

Oare ( Julia Amies-Green).

Badgworthy: Blackmore's landscape, the landscape of the medieval farmers, the

elusive sanctuary of the hermits of Badgworthy. Badgworthy is one of Exmoor's

essences, but, like a lined face or the patina on old furniture, is its beauty not

in its layered meaning and resonance... whether fact or fiction?


JULIAN GURNEY'S NATURE DIARY

River of the Doones

WORDS by Julian Gurney

PHOTO by Craig Joiner

A

s I am sure you know by

now, this year marks the

150th anniversary of R.D.

Blackmore's Lorna Doone. I have read it

at least three times, possibly more. Each

time I am struck by just how difficult the

first chapter or two are to read. Before long,

though, I start to feel more comfortable

with Blackmore's written word...

Lorna Doone contains part-factual, partfictitious

events from 200 years before

publication. As it ages, and our language

continues to evolve, will it become more

difficult for people to read? I suspect

so, for already in my late fifties, I struggle

with the spoken word of those two score

years younger than I.

However, for me, something will remain

unchanged in the book, something I

readily empathise with, and that is John

Ridd's obvious love of his environment.

There is no doubt in my mind that he

loved Exmoor, his home at Oare and,

in particular, his 'Lynn River' which he

mentions some 40 times throughout the

book. Here is how he describes Plover's

Barrows:

Almost everybody knows, in our part

of the world at least, how pleasant

and soft the fall of the land is round

about Plover's Barrows farm. All above

it is strong dark mountain, spread with

heath, and desolate, but near our house

the valleys cove, and open warmth and

shelter. Here are trees, and bright green

grass, and orchards full of contentment,

and a man may scarce espy the brook,

although he hears it everywhere. And

indeed a stout good piece of it comes

through our farm-yard, and swells

sometimes to a rush of waves, when

the clouds are on the hill-tops. But all

below, where the valley bends, and the

Lynn stream comes along with it, pretty

meadows slope their breast, and the sun

spreads on the water...

Why does John's passion for his home

and the Lynn Stream resonate with me so?

Well, for two decades my wife Lynne and

I lived at Combe Park, on the bank of the

Hoar Oak Water. For three years we lived

and worked in mid-Wales on the bank of

the Avon Cammarch. Now we are

privileged to live overlooking the Severn

Sea. Like the Ridds at Plover's Barrows

farm, the constant sound of water, in all

its moods, has been the musical score

that has accompanied our lives.

One of my favourite walks is to follow the

river, from source to sea, from Brendon

Two Gates, starting at Hoccombe Water,

on to Badgworthy and finally down the

East Lyn to Lynmouth. I've walked and

worked along parts of this route for so

long now that memories are triggered by

landmarks along it: sitting in the sun on

a tuft of grass near the footbridge below

Tom's Hill Barrows watching the river as

a kingfisher flashed by, too quickly to

fully appreciate its finery; seeing a heron

lift off, like some prehistoric dinosaur,

from the heronry below Lank Combe;

watching dippers walk under the water


from the riverbank by the Memorial to

Blackmore under Cloud Hill.

I tried fishing the East Lyn once. My dear,

recently departed friend and true

gentleman of Exmoor, John Pedder,

taught me to fish with a fly rod from the

footbridge at Myrtleberry after I had

spent the morning at my Saturday job

mowing the lawns of that beautiful place.

John patiently coaxed my inexperienced

technique until, to the delight of us both,

a brown trout took the fly and I clumsily

played it back to the bridge. Alas, without

his help, I seldom caught anything ever

again and gave up the idea that I may

become a fisherman. In truth, unlike John

Ridd who fished for 'loach' as food on the

Lyn as a boy, I have to admit to loathing

the thought of actually killing the fish;

they look so much more at home in the

pools of the Lyn than on my dinner plate.

Many years ago, in February of all

months, I spent several days wading in

the East Lyn, at Long Pool, where several

largish trees had come down into the

river. With chainsaw in hand, before we

gave much thought to risk assessments,

I would wade out and cut limbs from the

trees before tying a rope around them

and signalling for them to be pulled back

to the bank where they were cut up and

stacked or burnt. The water was so cold

my legs would grow goose bumps, sting

and were painful to touch, and by the

end of the day I would go home with no

feeling in my hands. In fact, I remember a

colleague at the time whose hands were

so cold he could do nothing more than

sit down with them tucked under his

thighs; I remember tears rolling down his

face with the pain as he repeatedly swore

he had frostbite. I suspect his protestations

were not too far from the truth.

Although the Lyn can appear gentle at

times, it should never be underestimated.

As John Ridd says, "It swells sometimes to

a rush of waves". During heavy rain I have

stood at Watersmeet and watched the

waters rise with astonishing speed;

someone told me once "an inch of rain

on the Chains can lift the river a foot".

I have witnessed this first-hand on several

occasions and, if the rains continue to fall,

the normally quite placid stream will

begin to rumble with the sound of

boulders and take on an earthy smell of

peat from the high moor. It becomes

a truly awesome force of nature.

My favourite season is the spring and,

in my opinion, one of the best places to

enjoy the wonders of the season is along

the banks of this, one of Exmoor's truly

beautiful rivers. Dappled light playing on

sparkling pools, brown trout rising for a

fly, dippers and wagtails flitting about in

search of food and nesting materials. The

ceaseless noise of water tumbling down

over shallow falls into gin-clear waters...

Very little has changed since John Ridd

stumbled into that little bower and found

his Lorna Doone.

Follow Julian's diary at: www.facebook.

com/ExmoorNatureDiary.


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ENVIRONMENT PART I

Natural Flood Management

on the Holnicote Estate

WORDS by Ben Bryant

PHOTOS by Nigel Hester

Rivers have always played

a key role in civilisation.

They brought life and

prosperity, they provided

trade links and were a source

of food. They were, and still

are, used for irrigation and

even at times of flooding they

deposit silt and sediment to

create rich, fertile soils that

are perfect for growing crops.

They're intrinsically linked to

our social and recreational

activities too as we fish, walk

alongside or even take to the

water itself.

For all their beauty and

calming nature though,

they also possess a much

darker side. They're constantly

changing, restless, moving

and reactive. They can bring

life but also devastation. They

flow and, in doing so, they

erode, they carry and they

deposit material. Whilst

creating landforms on the one

hand, they destroy them with

the other.

Moving laterally across

floodplains they seek new

ground, looking to migrate

to fresh territory. The river

wants to move, and keep on

moving. Humans have long

attempted to shackle and

restrain waterways but the

river is something of an

enigma. You think you've got

them sussed, but turn your

back for a moment, and they

can easily surprise you.

For a long time the thinking

was that rivers needed to

be straightened, widened,

deepened and kept free of

debris and blockages, the

theory being that the faster

the water flows, the faster it

can leave the land behind.

While this is true to a degree,

this strategy has huge

potential to backfire.

If the velocity of water

is increased through the

traditional methods of river

management there comes a

point, when the many streams

and rivers of a catchment

converge, that the volume of

water exceeds the capacity


From left: Upland interventions to slow the flow in the headwaters of the Horner Water; 'leaky weir' built to spill water out onto the

floodplain during high flows; Allerford cottages during an estimated 1:75-year flood event, 2016; temporary flood storage on farmland.

of the channel to hold it. At

that stage the excess water

spreads onto the surrounding

land, causing a plethora of

issues and problems – flooded

properties, damaged transport

links, contamination from

sewage pipes and drains and

the loss of crops and grazing

land to name just a few.

The impacts – environmental,

economic and social – are

far-reaching.

As the impacts of climate

change become better

understood and more widely

felt, and budget constraints

place an inevitable limit on

our use of conventional flood

management methods, we

strive, inevitably, to find new

solutions. By working with

nature, rather than fighting it,

the possibilities begin to

open up.

The National Trust's Holnicote

Estate, between Minehead

and Porlock, has been at the

forefront of natural flood

management for a number

of years and something of a

quiet revolution has been

taking place in the catchments

of the Horner and Aller rivers.

So subtle are some of the

measures that have been put

in place here that you'd be

hard pushed to even spot

them. This isn't a scheme built

out of concrete and steel, it's

something entirely different.

Porlock Vale Streams is part of

the National Trust's Riverlands

programme that was launched

in October 2018. It follows

on from the successful Source

to Sea project which ran at

Holnicote from 2009. While

Source to Sea was primarily

about natural flood

management, Riverlands

is designed to deliver more

than flood alleviation; it's also

about creating new habitats,

providing resilient catchments

and connecting people with

the environment.

Project Manager for the

Porlock Vale Streams project

is Ben Eardley, who explains,

"It's not just about focusing

on the river, but the whole

landscape around the river.

For a lot of people when they

think of a river it's just the

section through their town or

village and whether it floods

or not. They won't necessarily

think of where that river has

come from or what's going on

in the upland areas that might

affect the river as it moves

through the catchment."

The earlier Source to Sea

work showed that small-scale

interventions upstream can

have a significant impact

downstream and it's this that

the current project is keen to

improve on. Although the

area isn't densely populated, it

does have a lot of high-value

property and it's important

that is protected. It's been

estimated that there are 30 to

40 million pounds worth of

properties at risk from flooding

and that, if there was a serious

flood, around 90 properties

would be in the flood

footprint, including places

like Allerford, Bossington and

West Luccombe.

The catchment areas of the

Aller and the Horner are very

small as far as rivers go, which

gives a very short lag time. In

short, the lag time is the time

difference between when the

rainfall is at its heaviest and

when the river level is at its

highest. A short lag time can

lead to a very 'flashy' river,

where the levels can rise and

fall swiftly.

The management and

topography of the land can

alter that lag time quite

significantly, as Ben explains.

"Historically, some of the area

has been deforested, the

grazing here can cause the

ground to become compacted

and the upland areas often

have steep ground." This

combination can lead to

a lot of water getting into

the streams and rivers very

quickly. "Any rain that does fall

in those areas can't be held by

the land," says Ben. "Instead,

it just runs straight off the land

into the river network. This

project is about mitigating

that quick exit of water into

the channels and creating a

catchment that doesn't just

capture the water, but holds

it. The higher up a catchment

you can hold it, the better.

We need to be considering a

whole catchment approach,

from the uplands down to

where the river meets the sea."

The concept of holding water

might, potentially, conjure up

images of lakes and reservoirs

whereas, in truth, the concept

is more about slowing down

the rate of movement from

the upper to the lower

courses. The techniques for

getting this slower flow are, in

the main, relatively simple. In

fact, some are actually more

about what isn't done rather

than what is. For a long time it

was standard practice to keep

stream and river channels

completely clear of debris and

any fallen branches, trees and

general stream detritus were

removed to create a clear path

for the water. On this project

debris is purposefully being

left in the channel, giving rise

to what are known as 'leaky

weirs' and 'woody dams'.

Whilst not stopping the water

from moving, they're intended

to impede the flow.

For the water that does make

it down to the Vale there is

another very simple, but very

effective, measure in place, as

Ben explains. "We've got five

bunds which are, effectively,

grassy banks and behind those

the field level has been lowered

ever so slightly to create

a temporary holding area.

They act as mini, temporary

reservoirs, but for the vast

majority of the time they don't

affect the land use. They've

been successful because of


View from the south showing a bund retaining a large amount

of floodwater.

their ability to hold larger

volumes of water back.

By doing that they also give

you time; there is a chance

to alert the residents and

settlements further down the

catchment." The bunds are

more than just about reducing

the impact of flooding, though.

"We want them to be very

naturalised," says Ben, "so that

they create habitats, such as

wet woodlands and meadows.

So, as well as having a flood

mitigation benefit, there is

also the habitat benefit, too."

The concept of natural flood

management has been

around for a while now, albeit

on a relatively small scale,

but its profile was raised

significantly across the winter

of 2013-14. "It was incredibly

timely really," says Ben. "There

was a lot of severe flooding

taking place and the

Government realised they had

to do something more than

just resort to the traditional

methods such as dredging.

It's something that bodies

like the Environment Agency

and DEFRA had been looking

into for a while. There's been

a progression in thought and

much has been done on the

academic side of things with

regards to data monitoring,

so that the effectiveness of

strategies can be seen."

For those who remain

unconvinced of the scheme's

effectiveness, there is more

than just anecdotal evidence

to consider. Two years of data

monitoring was undertaken

during the establishment of

the scheme to understand the

full dynamics of the river.

That monitoring was then

continued following the

installation of the natural

flood management so that

its impact could be assessed.

The results, as Ben testifies,

have been significant. "Shortly

after the first bunds were

installed there was a pretty

serious weather event, during

which there was a ten per

cent reduction in peak flow –

and that meant that properties

further down in the

catchment which had flooded

previously didn't flood."

It's not just a one-off success;

2016 saw even more severe

flooding, the scale of which

should only occur once every

75 years, and again not a

single property suffered

flooding.

Big things often have small

beginnings but, perhaps, the

rest of the country, and even

beyond, could learn a lot

from what is happening in this

sleepy little corner of Exmoor.

READ MORE

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/holnicote-estate

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/features/riverlands-how-wekeep-our-rivers-flowing

Step out onto Exmoor

this spring

Discover the Holnicote Estate

If you're looking to grab some fresh air this spring,

then why not explore the Holnicote Estate?

On your visit look out for lambs at Horner, bluebells

in the woods and perhaps enjoy a tasty treat at one of

our quaint tea-rooms such as Kitnor's at Bossington?

Call 01643 862452 for details

nationaltrust.org.uk/holnicote-estate

When you visit, donate, volunteer or join the National Trust, your

support helps us to look after special places for ever, for everyone.

© National Trust 2018. The National Trust is an independent registered charity, number 205846.

Photography © National Trust Images\National Trust images/ John Millar.

#nationaltrust

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The Exmoor Mires

Partnership (EMP) is the

culmination of several

projects that began over 20

years ago, back in 1998. It

presents a real opportunity to

make a significant difference

to the peatlands of Exmoor

by implementing sustainable

hydrological management in

upland river catchments.

Peatlands cover 11% of

England's landscape and are

nationally and internationally

recognised as they provide

a habitat for a wide range of

wildlife and birds, as well as

rare plant species. They also

provide an estimated 70%

of our drinking water and

they are the UK's single-most

important terrestrial carbon

store, containing 20 times

more carbon than all UK

forests.

The overall aim of the Exmoor

Mires Partnership project is to

restore the hydrological

function of the relatively

shallow peatland-covered

headwaters of the River Exe

and other Exmoor catchments,

with multiple benefits to the

upland environment and

society. The project is

undertaking a forwardthinking,

all-encompassing

monitoring and research

programme in order to

quantify the impacts on

water quantity, quality,

carbon storage and greenhouse

gaseous flux, as well as

ENVIRONMENT PART II

Upstream Thinking

The Exmoor Mires Partnership

WORDS by Morag Angus, Mires Manager

on agriculture, ecology,

archaeology and landscape.

These peatland landscapes

have been an intrinsic part of

Exmoor for over 5,000 years.

During this time human

intervention has modified the

form and function of these

blanket, spring and valley

mires. In particular, agricultural

drainage, peat cutting and

burning have modified the

hydrology and dried out the

upper layers of the peat,

causing oxidation, erosion and

vegetation change. In addition

to the historic disturbance of

the peat, recently observed

global climate change trends

may further threaten the

continued existence of actively

growing peatlands. Their loss

would result in significant

ecological and landscape

change and a reduced

water- and carbon-storage

function.

Exmoor Mires is funded

by South West Water (SWW),

Natural England, the

Environment Agency (EA) and

DEFRA. It is a partnership

project made up of SWW,

EA, Exmoor National Park

Authority (ENPA), Natural

England (NE) and Historic

England (HE), with additional

representation from Exmoor

farmers and the local

community. We also work

closely with the University

of Exeter, and with numerous

contractors and volunteers

to deliver a wide range of

monitoring and research.

RESTORATION WORK

Before any restoration takes

place, the EMP team carries

out a large body of work to

compile a Restoration Plan

for each site. Each plan

assesses any potential impact

of the restoration on the

ecology, historic environment,

landscape, access assessments

and land management, and

estimates the costs associated

with any ditch-blocking work.

All appropriate Government

bodies, landowners and

farmers have input into

the plans and what final

restoration happens on

the ground.

Initial analysis of remote

sensing data and aerial

photography illustrate the

location of ditches and peat

cuttings. Between the project

staff, interns and volunteers,

an amazing 4,133 hectares of

moorland has been surveyed.

Working in pairs, the team

uses handheld GPS units to

record the length, depth,

width and peat depth of

ditches. Peat depths on

Exmoor vary from just a

few centimetres to over 2m,

averaging around 33cm.

Restoration is carried out

between August and April,

avoiding the breeding season

for ground-nesting birds.

Owing to the delicate nature

of peat, the diggers used

need to be of very particular

specifications. These include:

wide tracks to provide greater

weight distribution, weight

no greater than 7-8 tonnes,

a rotating bucket head in

order to reduce the amount

the digger moves around, and

a toothless bucket to ensure

less disturbance, particularly

to anything historical hidden

in the peat.

The restoration work entails

using locally developed ditchblocking

techniques on

drainage networks, eroding

gullies and peat cuttings, to

re-wet extensive areas of

damaged peatlands. These

techniques have evolved over

the years through trial and

error and through advice and

requests from landowners

and tenants. The project has

a strong working relationship

with local contractors to

deliver the bulk of the work,

with a pool of amazing

volunteers who tackle minor

maintenance works.

The overall restoration aim

is to install 'blocks' along the

ditches to encourage water

out of the ditch and across

the moor, slowing the rate

at which water leaves the

moorland and increasing

its storage capacity. Broadly

speaking, blocks installed in

the ditches can comprise a

combination of peat, wood

and bales (made out of

Molinia caerulea, locally

known as 'sedge grass'). The

wood for the blocks comes

from local plantations, and

it is then planked to our

requirements and left

untreated. The frequency of

blocks installed is high enough

to enable the pools which

form behind them to extend

back to the base of the next

block. This keeps the water

table high and helps prevent

erosion at the base of the

blocks from any overflowing

water. Shallow pools are

desirable to promote

Sphagnum growth.


Peat blocks along drainage ditch showing

water stored behind the block, Great Buscombe.

Bales and backfill materials

are sometimes used to fill

any deeper voids along the

ditch. This creates a safer

environment for stock and

recreational users. The decision

as to the type of block to be

used in an area depends on

several factors, such as the size

of the ditch, the gradient of

the slope, and the volume

of water that flows down the

ditch, or the landscape impact.

To date, over 2,000 hectares

of damaged peatland have

been restored, with a further

760 hectares being considered

unsuitable for restoration. The

project is looking to restore

another 1,000 hectares.

MONITORING

In order to understand the

pre- and post-restoration

effectiveness of any works

on the peatland ecosystem,

a wide range of scientific

research has been undertaken

and this is ongoing. To date,

the data coming out from

all the research is showing

very positive results as to the

effectiveness of the peatland

restoration on Exmoor and

the project's holistic approach

in achieving this.

The aim of the hydrological

monitoring is to understand

the quality and quantity of

water leaving the moor – that

is, clean up the water leaving

the moor and slow the rate

at which it leaves.

KEY RESULTS

Within one of our monitoring

catchments we are seeing

an average decrease in depth

to groundwater levels of

between 1.03–2.65cm,

which equates to a two-thirds

reduction in water leaving

the catchment.

The aim of the biodiversity

monitoring is to understand

whether we are seeing

positive changes in the

peatland-associated species

and habitats, and by carrying

out the work we are having

a positive impact on slowing

the national decline in nature.

Vegetation is used as a proxy

of change, that is, if we see

bog species (Sphagna and

cotton grasses), returning to

the moor and species like

purple moor grass (Molinia

caerulea), we know there have

been significant changes in

the hydrology and that the

peatland is working again. Five

out of seven restoration sites

are showing positive botanical

changes. Breeding snipe have

been seen at two restoration

sites which previously had

none. In the context of there

being only eight breeding

snipe locations on Exmoor

in 2011, this is a significant

result. The Exehead/Blackpitts

restored sites have become

the best sites in Somerset for

black darter and common

hawker dragonflies, upland

species which require open

water. This success is due to

the pools which were created

by restoration that happened

in several phases up until

2007; prior to this there was

no surface water on the site.

In order to understand the

past historic environment we

undertake walkover surveys,

case study sites are set up

where extensive geophysics

are undertaken, and paleoenvironmental

monitoring

has also been carried out.

Around 300 previously

unrecorded archaeological

features and sites, ranging in

date from around 6,000BC

to the twentieth century,

have been found. The new

evidence has included

prehistoric standing stones

and cairns, Victorian mining

works, disused roads and

tracks and Second World War

military training features.

Techniques such as tephra

chronology (analying dust

from volcanic eruptions)

also give us clues about the

story of the environment

laid down in the peat.

PARASITES

Will the peatland restoration

have an impact on agriculture,

with regards to parasites?

The sheep tick, Ixodes ricinus,

is a vector for a number of

diseases including bovine

babesiosis. Research has

shown no significant

difference of incidences

between pre and post

restoration and that

incidences are higher in

dry grassland and brackendominated

habitats,

compared with bog habitat.

The snail Galba truncatula is

an intermediate host of liver

fluke, Fasciola hepatica, and

is a cause of major economic

loss for farmers. Research has

reported that G. truncatula

does not occur on peat soils

and therefore re-wetting to

create bog (peat) habitats

is unlikely to create suitable

habitat for the snail. Research

has also shown that the snail

favours muddy habitats with

rich algal growth, conditions

not consistent with peat soils.

VOLUNTEERS

Volunteers are actively

involved in a wide range of

activities within the project,

ranging from running,

leading and organising

educational walks, talks and

events, to practical work such

as small-scale ditch blocking

and maintenance work, survey

and research, publicity work,

office work, and so on. The

project has benefited from

over 1,000 days (7,000 hours)

of volunteering, with a

nominal in-kind value of

£50,900. Over 4,000 people

have been engaged through

our community outreach

work, which has included,

for example, the Bogtastic

CLOWNS Play Bus and the

Bogtastic Summer Festival.

The holistic aims and

approaches in delivery of the

project, which involve local

individuals, community

groups, the farmers who

manage the land and partner

organisation has enabled

successful landscape peatland

conservation to happen

on the ground.

FIND OUT MORE

www.exmoormires.org.uk

There is a walk on Saturday

16 February, 'Birds, Bogs and

Barrows', at Hangley Cleave,

2-6pm. Join the EMP Team

on a walk across areas of

restored blanket bog to learn

about the work. Look out for

bird species associated with

the mires and see the rich

archaeological landscape of

the high moor. Free event.

Meet at Ashcombe car park,

Simonsbath. T: 01398

315011 to book your place.

Here: Restoration work at Spooners Monitoring Catchment.

Page 56: Deer Park restoration work, March 2014.


landowners/managers are

eligible to apply to a small

capital grants fund offering

50% of costs, up to a maximum

of £4,000 per holding, to

support work on the farm that

will help protect water quality.

Headwaters of the Exe

WORDS by Heather Harley, Programme Manager

The Headwaters of the Exe

project was launched in 2016

and also forms part of South

West Water's Upstream

Thinking programme, offering

an innovative way to improve

the quality of drinking water

being abstracted from rivers

in ten catchments across the

South West.

It costs South West Water

(SWW) more to treat water

that contains silt, fertiliser

or pesticides to make the

high-quality water we expect

from our taps. The idea behind

Upstream Thinking is to lower

this cost by improving the

quality of 'raw' river water.

On this basis, SWW is funding

three projects on the River

Exe, of which Headwaters of

the Exe is one, which will run

until March 2020.

I picked up the baton from

Bea Davis in August 2018.

It's very much a partnership

project, with SWW, Exmoor

National Park Authority

(ENPA), Exmoor Hill Farming

Network (EHFN) and the

Farming and Wildlife Advisory

Group SouthWest (FWAG

SW). We have a steering

group comprising local

landowners and organisations

including the Exmoor Society

and the Exmoor Rivers and

Streams Group. The University

of Exeter and volunteers

carry out monitoring to

ensure that the project is

having the desired effect.

By working together with local

landowners and managers,

we hope to deliver multiple

benefits for the upper Exe

catchment.

Through the project, local

contractors are carrying out

work to reduce the amount

of sediment washing off

footpaths and bridleways

and entering watercourses.

Reduced sediment in turn

reduces treatment costs and

improves the river habitat for

many species. Atlantic salmon,

for instance, travel long

distances to reach the rivers

and streams of Exmoor in

order to spawn, but the

gravels, or 'redds', in which

they spawn are threatened by

siltation which could make

conditions unsuitable. These

improvements will have direct

benefits for water quality,

wildlife and also for users of

the Rights of Way network.

Farmers and woodland

owners are offered

management advice and

grants. Through the project,

advisors from ENPA and

FWAG SW offer free advisory

visits within the catchment.

During these visits, advisers

make recommendations for

work which could be done

to improve water quality;

these are incorporated into a

confidential bespoke report

for each holding. Each report

provides advice on possible

funding sources. Where no

funding source exists,

The previous manure storage area

and the area now.

One farmer who has worked

with the project said, "We

received funding towards the

cost of a covered manure

store. Now that we no longer

have a muck heap in the field,

the pasture is improving.

We don't need to use a tractor

in the field in winter, which

allows us to avoid making ruts

and the manure retains its

nutrients." In the previous

manure storage area (below,

left), various issues included

poaching from livestock and

machinery and rainwater

mixing with dung, creating

risk of contaminated runoff

and nutrient loss. In the new,

grant-funded manure store

(below, right), clean and dirty

water are now separated and

manure can be spread when

soil conditions are good,

thereby protecting fields and

soil health.

Whilst on the farms, FWAG

SW advisors can offer sitespecific

advice on a range of

topics including soil health,

manure, fertiliser and pesticide

use, improvements to habitats

and wildlife, protecting

historic features and

conserving Exmoor's

landscape. Advisors can

provide links to other projects

and funding, too, such as


advice on grants through

the DEFRA Countryside

Stewardship Scheme.

Working with the EHFN, the

project runs events covering

topics such as grassland

management, soil husbandry

and woodland management.

In May 2018, an event

focusing on internal parasite

monitoring and control

in sheep and cattle was

particularly successful.

This was followed by six

practical faecal-egg-counting

sessions, hosted by Exmoor

Farmers Livestock Auctions,

enabling farmers to treat for

parasites only when absolutely

necessary. These events have

increased engagement with

farmers within the catchment

and wider community.

Since mid-2018 the project

has run a pesticide amnesty.

To date, 191.5 litres of liquid

pesticide and 5.5kg of

powdered pesticide, along

with 2,300 litres of 50%

sulphuric acid, has been

removed from the catchment.

This is a huge success story

for the catchment, for the

farmers working here and

the environment.

Woodland and game shoot

managers can also receive

advice and grants to improve

water quality and increase

best practice, such as

improving track management

and reducing pressure on

vulnerable areas.

Adam Lockyear, FWAG SW

Senior Farm Conservation

Advisor, is proud of the

project's achievements to

date. He says, "We have

engaged with a high number

of farmers over a large

proportion of the catchment

area on a very wide range

of subjects including

wildlife, conservation, yard

infrastructure and soil

management. The diversity

of advice and level of

engagement is incredibly

beneficial to the catchment."

The project also supports the

River Barle Invasive Crayfish

Project, which works as a

strong partnership between

organisations, such as the

Environment Agency and the

River Exe and Tributaries

Association, working together

with a team of dedicated

volunteers. The team is

trialling a ground-breaking

piece of research to control

non-native invasive signal

crayfish on the River Barle,

which may offer a possible

way of controlling this invasive

species in future.

The project works with the

Exmoor Knotweed Control

Partnership to reduce a

number of non-native

knotweed species within the

catchment area. The project

has begun an exciting new

trial of methods for controlling

knotweed on land which

is managed organically.

At present it is not possible to

treat these sites through the

Exmoor Knotweed Control

Project, as a chemical

herbicide is used as part of the

treatment process. Consent

is sought annually from

landowners and the

Environment Agency to treat

sites, but clearly this treatment

is not allowed on organic

land. The Headwaters of the

Exe project hopes to look

in detail at whether there

is a viable alternative for

controlling invasive species

on organic land on Exmoor.

So the next time we drink

a glass of water, we can be

assured of the hard work

taking place in our catchments,

that benefits both the

environment and the water

that flows out of our taps.

FIND OUT MORE

www.exmoor-nationalpark.

gov.uk/living-and-working/

headwaters-of-the-exeproject

T. 01398 322277

E. hjharley@exmoornationalpark.gov.uk.

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The

Dandelion

and

the Bee

WORDS & PHOTOS

by Jane A. Mares

L

ight spreads from the east while the lane is yet in

shadow, night's stillness lingering among the oaks,

deepening the air of composure, of inner calm,

that wraps mature trees. Larks sing from the hill; soon

the rhapsody of blackbirds fills the valley. As the sun touches

the hedgetops a whitethroat carries a phrase up into the oak,

then swoops back into the cover of the hedge and falls silent.

He has all day to sing, and it is not yet 7am. Dew hangs from

every grass-tip, silvers stitchwort and cow parsley.

Dandelions are still abed, enfolded in their green bracts.

But by and by, when the sun has drawn the scent from nettle

and fern and there is a new song of tiny wings traversing the

morning air – then the taraxacum flowers stretch wide in the

warmth. From before March to beyond October a bloom may

show here and there, but April into May is prime dandelion

time, when a thousand and one 'yellow suns' colour wayside

and pasture, carrying spring across the West Country like a

long, celebratory cheer. Or is it a roar? 'Dens leonis' the Romans

called the plant; the French named it 'dent de lion' which

was anglicised into dandelion, probably from the jagged

appearance of the leaves, serrated as a lion's jaw. Although

there is something leonine, too, in the bold hue of the flowers,

the way the hundreds of florets that compose each head lie

close and trim and soft as fur. Do they purr, if stroked? No, that

is the red-tailed bumblebee (Bombus lapidarius) humming under

her breath as she works from bloom to bloom. Dandelions

flower early and long, and figure among the top 20 favourite

bee plants, rich in both nectar and pollen, although the 'fatherdust'

is sterile, and plants can reproduce apomictically, which

means they do not require outside fertilisation to set seed.

It is easy to recognise a dandelion on the lawn, but to tell one

sort from another requires close inspection, or the trained eye

of a taraxacologist. There are some 150 dandelions native to

the British Isles, but arrivals from elsewhere have increased the

record by another 100 and numbers will doubtless rise. Nature

is an enthusiastic adjuster of life, quick to give a tweak here,

that allows something to fit a space there, and taraxaca illustrate

this with gusto, adapting to almost every habitat from hilltop to

shoreline. Around Upton Church blooms T. nordstedii; Webber's

Post is home to T. faeroense; while the Erythrosperma group

have settled around Dunster Beach. Specimen collectors are

active between February and May, when dandelion varieties

come closest to looking like what they are! A checklist of

some 15 features aids identification, from the smoothness of


The Dandelion and the Bee

Clockwise from top left: Solitary bees mating in Brendon churchyard on a hawkbit; bee on borage flowers; honeybee on lavender;

Andrena haemorrhoa resting on a leaf with a full pollen basket; dandelions, daisies and forget-me-nots; solitary bee gathering

pollen from an opium poppy; bumblebee visiting flowers of a white dead-nettle. Centre: Bombus hortorum and foxglove.

the stem to the shape of the seed. Soil type, season, even the

weather must be taken into account, for although the leopard

cannot change its spots, a dandelion may lose its markings.

"You have to be quick to identify T. pseudolarssonii," Jeanne

Webb tells me, "as its spots may wash off in the rain". Jeanne is

a member of the Somerset Rare Plants group (see Winter Issue

2018) and has spent hours, days and years seeking, collecting,

pressing, mounting and identifying wild plants. Her work is both

scientifically accurate and artistically sensitive and reminds me

of an observation by Sir Joseph Paxton, "Botany is... the science

of beauty." Her quiet enthusiasm is endearing. "It's a compulsive

hobby," she admits. "I suffer from Taraxacitus! They are lovely

plants, each one is like unfolding a gift, with layers of surprises.

The humble dandelion can be so interesting and diverse...

We should be caring more for nature." Yes, indeed.

Early May, a hillslope carpeted with blooms, the air scented

with a faintly cocoa-like sweetness, musical with tinkling notes,

as if the flowers themselves were singing – but it is a pair of

goldfinches fluttering among the first seed-heads. What colour

are the blooms growing en masse in the spring sunlight?

Lemon-yellow? Orange-yellow? A feather, cast from the wingbar

of one of the finches suggests an answer – goldfinch yellow.

Birds are not the only foragers among the flowers, 93 different

kinds of insects have been discovered frequenting dandelions,

bees being among the foremost. As with the taraxaca, it takes

more than one glance to tell who's who among the bees, of

which the world has no less than 25,000 species. The familiar

beekeeper's bee, the hive bee, Apis mellifera, that provides us

with honey for tea, is responsible for no more than a third of

insect pollination. For the rest we are indebted predominantly

to wild bees, particularly bumblebees, of which the shorthaired,

apple and Cullem's are now extinct in Britain, with

at least another six species in dire need of succour. To offset

this, on a happy day in 2001 we gained a handsome new

bumblebee from France, Bombus hypnorum. Its vernacular


The Dandelion and the Bee

name rhymes invitingly: try repeating 'tree bee' three times in

a glad tone, to banish gloom.

The first week in April. Primroses outnumber dandelions in the

narrow green lanes of the west. A mist of blackthorn blossom.

And on the south wind a soft, burring song coming and going

among the pussy-willow. It is a queen bumblebee, thickfurred

and broad in the beam, for none but the strongest and

stoutest survive the long winter-sleep. Unlike the honeybee, the

bumblebee colonies are annual. Of all her community, only

the young mated queen lives to carry hope of a new generation

into the new year. Having satiated her empty stomach with

nectar, the next urgent quest is for a suitable nest site. This

may be above or below ground, under a stone or up in a tree,

depending on her species.

Bumblebees all belong to the genus 'Bombus' meaning buzzing

or booming from their flight-note, akin to the Greek 'bombos',

a deep, hollow sound. Six species belonging to the subgenus

Psithyrus ('murmuring') are cuckoo bees that, like the bird,

build no nest of their own but depend upon that of whichever

bumblebee they target as host to foster their young. Both hive

and bumblebees are social creatures in contrast with the many

classified as solitary that make up 90 per cent of the British bee

population and are often named for their activities, as leafcutters,

masons, carpenters, miners.

Near a well-trodden path across short sward where the early

grass is still sparse enough to show bare earth, an area of

ground is dotted with small holes. At one round entrance a tiny

face peers out. The black eyes, bright with life and sentience,

belong to a grey-haired mining bee, Andrena cineraria. This is

a favourite site, colonised for years, perhaps centuries, with

numerous shafts leading to nest burrows that have been mined

in close, neighbourly proximity. Yet each female works in total

independence, exclusively intent on rearing her own small

brood. On this sunny morning she has caught the perfume of a

flower that is highly popular with her short-tongued species –

dandelions. She struggles up through grass still heavy with dew,

and takes to the air.

Bees know about work from a very early age, and there is no

time to lose. The pasture that at one moment is ablaze with

yellow blooms will all too soon have dimmed to a scattering

of ghost-candles. No longer "the Queen's hairy dog-flower", as

gypsies once called them, the taraxaca will have matured into

'blowballs', 'time-tellers,' 'the schoolboy's clock', from which

the hours may be puffed away, until the last seeds vanish like

soap-bubbles into the sky, and all that remains is the disc that

anchored them, pitted and bald, reminiscent of a 'monk's

head' or 'priest's crown'. While not as numerous as its seeds

(one flower may produce 170, a single plant release 2,000),

the dandelions' many nicknames indicate that its features have

long been familiar to country folk, discovered unscientifically

perhaps, but noted with pleasure and amusement.

Top: Goldfinch feather on a dandelion flower.

Three in a row, left to right: Grey-haired mining bee, Andrena

cineraria; leaf-cutter bee on an everlasting pea; tawny mining

bee, Andrena fulva, emerging in spring.

Centre: Bumblebee drinking nectar from a sedum.

Above, left and right: Dandelion leaf, T. pseudolarssonii;

dandelion seed-head.

Bottom: A meadow of dandelions and daisies on Exmoor.

It is not the unacademic mind that most threatens the world

of nature, but the indifferent heart. Indeed, happy the eye

that sees a hawkweed (245 different species) as a beautiful

dandelion; the child that sees a dandelion as a dandy lion.

Perhaps happiest of all the idler in the sunny meadow, beguiled

by the murmur of nameless bees among nameless flowers,

as the long golden day drifts towards evening.


Under the stars

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B U R R O W H AY E S F A R M

C A R A V A N & C A M P I N G S I T E

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Photo by Paul Howell, courtesy of South West Lakes Trust

E X E VA L L E Y C A R AVA N S I T E

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PHOTOGRAPHY

Astrophotographer

Will Gater

WORDS by Mel Roach

PHOTOS by Will Gater


Photography

Twisting formations within a bright noctilucent cloud display, 9 July 2010. The Orion nebula (Messier 42), Jan. 2017.

Comet C/2014 Q2 (Lovejoy),

16 January 2015.

The Northern Lights over Somerset showing

bright auroral rays, 22/23 June 2015.

The Andromeda galaxy (M31) and satellite

galaxies M32 & NGC 205.

The moon's craters.

Northern Lights display with bright auroral ray

during G3 (Kp=7) geomagnetic storm, seen from

Somerset, 7 October 2015.

Jupiter and the Great Red

Spot, 5 December 2012.

Taunton-based astronomer,

journalist and astrophotographer,

Will Gater, captures stunning

images of atmospheric and

astronomical objects and phenomena

– the result of 20 years diligently and

obsessively studying the heavens and

honing his photographic technique.

Will has successfully forged his career

in a world with only around 10,000

'professional' astronomers. I met with

him to discuss his varied work and

explore further the assorted wonders

to be found in Exmoor's celebrated

dark skies.

Will's boyhood fascination with space

began simply, with books about space

shuttles and astronauts, then the

Hale-Bopp comet passed over when

Will was still in primary school and

astronomy was then very much 'on his

radar'. In secondary school, Will's interest

really evolved, in large part due to a

'fantastic' science teacher who led

a 'really vibrant' astronomy club.

"The school astronomy group was

brilliant," Will remembers, "so active,

and we were fortunate to have an

observatory to use. I was about 11

when it quickly became a passion

and obsession. It was an exciting time for

astronomy – we had the first Mars rover

and the beginnings of the internet.

I joined Torbay Astronomical Society

who were a really enthusiastic group,

turning up every month, back when we

marvelled at rudimentary internet pages

showing imagery we hadn't seen before...

The confluence of internet and space

missions really made it exciting... and

I only started out with binoculars!"

As well as acquiring astronomical

skills, the teenage Will taught himself

photography by 'trial and error'. Using

his dad's old Olympus camera, he began

attempting to capture the night skies of

nearby Dartmoor. These were the 'predigital'

days, but it was not long before

the immense flexibility and low-cost


Photography

imaging afforded by digital cameras

changed the game considerably. Today,

Will produces top-quality nocturnal and

stellar images and, for the past ten years,

has acted as a judge for the Astronomy

Photographer of the Year competition.

Will studied Astrophysics at University

College London and, whilst there,

became news editor of Astronomy Now –

at the time the foremost publication

for astronomy enthusiasts. Since then,

he has written for numerous publications

including New Scientist and the BBC's

Sky At Night Magazine. He has also

authored or co-authored a number

of astronomy books, including the

best-selling introductory handbook,

The Practical Astronomer.

Will's knowledge, enthusiasm and talent

have taken him to many and varied

places; he has worked in the outreach

department of the Hubble space

telescope in Germany, led astronomy

workshops and tours and reported on

astronomy news from Exmoor to the

Arctic. When I met Will he had just

finished putting on his third astronomythemed

'show' at Exeter Phoenix,

entitled 'The Story of the Solar System',

which one reviewer likened to the

Royal Institution Christmas Lectures.

An astronomy 'show' sounded like a

novel concept and I wondered what it

entailed. "It's inspirational imagery, demos

and knowledge with a bit of fun and

panto humour thrown in," Will explains.

"It's great to see how it is received on the

night – you don't get that with writing

– hearing the gasps and amazement

amongst the audience is a thrilling, really

enjoyable, rewarding experience."

Browsing through Will's images takes

you on an otherworldy journey – many

and varied types of celestial objects and

phenomena are represented: distant

nebulae and galaxies, detailed planetary

portraits, eclipses, aurorae, meteors,

nightscapes, star trails and 'moondogs'.

A moondog is the nocturnal version

of a 'sundog', where ice-crystal clouds

produce isolated patches of 'rainbow'

in the sky. Will was particularly pleased

to have recently captured the 'lunar

green flash' – a rare phenomenon, much

sought-after by astrophotographers.

The lunar green flash is caused by the

atmosphere bending light and 'pulling'

green light upwards and a further 'mirage

effect' makes the green light appear

briefly as a green crest or 'flash' on the

top rim of the moon when it is very close

to the horizon.

Will is keen for more people to

discover the wonders of astronomy and

astrophotography, emphasising that

beginners do not need lots of expensive

kit to get going. Good-quality 10 x 50

binoculars, he tells me, are better than

a cheap telescope and add to these a

consumer-level DSLR camera with

just the kit lens and a sturdy tripod.

Astronomical imaging software is widely

available for free. One of the most

challenging, but interesting things a

beginner can attempt, Will suggests, is

meteor photography: "Go out during

the peak night of a meteor shower, if the

skies are clear, finding a good location

away from street lighting and, hopefully,

with no moon. Take a camera and tripod,

point it towards the stars and focus, then

set the camera up to take exposures of

about 20-30 seconds and keep taking

them... you may take hundreds and fill

up your memory card and drain your

batteries, but you may just get one or two

clear images of a meteor. It's brilliant fun

and you can be meteor-watching yourself

at the same time!"

High-resolution lunar and planetary

images are a little more complex to

capture clearly. Will explains this is

because Earth's atmosphere causes

objects to wobble, "like looking through

a swimming pool". Packets of moving

atmosphere refracting and bending the

light causes planets to look like they are

shimmering. Video imaging is frequently

used and freely available image-stacking

software can select the clearest frames

and stack them into one, high-resolution

image. Astrophotographers frequently

employ tracking mounts for cameras,

which track the night sky, or use webcams

in combination with telescopes.

Will explains how weather and

atmospheric conditions are key to

achieving photographic success and

that astronomers refer to these as the

'seeing conditions'. The different seasons

also bring different opportunities and

challenges. Winter brings the thrill of

'aurora-chasing' – although aurora can

appear at any time, long winter nights

make seeing one more likely. Will has

witnessed the spectacular aurorae in

the Arctic, insisting that, "It really is more

breathtaking than anyone can describe –

there is nothing about it that is a let-down

or underwhelming." Will even managed

Top: The North America nebula

(NGC 7000), the bright star Deneb and

nebulosity around the star Sadr.

Second from top: M45 – the Pleiades

star cluster.

Third from top: The Lagoon nebula (M8).

Above: An image of the moon that has

been processed to show the colour

variations (i.e. the different geological

compositions) on the lunar disc.

Page 65: The Milky Way over Exmoor

National Park, Somerset, August 2016.


Photography

to capture the aurora when it made a

rare appearance over the Quantocks

some years ago. When aurorae reach

this far south, the dominant colour tends

to be red, rather than the characteristic

greens, because the aurora is structured

almost like a curtain – the top is red and

the bottom is green and at our latitude,

we tend to only see the red portion. Will

explains how true 'astronomical darkness'

is brief in the summer months, so there

is less of a time-window to capture

certain subjects and astronomy tends

to 'wind down'. However, summer in the

northern hemisphere brings noctilucent

clouds which he says are a 'fun' thing

to go hunting for when all else is quiet.

Noctilucent or 'night-shining' clouds are

high-altitude ice-clouds which appear

illuminated in the sky after sunset at

mid- and northern latitudes. At 80km up,

they are still receiving sunlight after the

sun has sunk below our visible horizon.

Noctilucent clouds are rare, but more

likely to be encountered than aurorae

at our latitude.

Will's infectious passion and genuine

desire for widening interest in astronomy

means he is most enthusiastic about

Exmoor's designation (in 2011) as an

'International Dark Sky Reserve' by the

International Dark-Sky Association (IDA).

Exmoor was the first place in Europe to

be awarded this status! The IDA's website

defines suitable sites as "possessing an

exceptional or distinguished quality of

starry nights and nocturnal environment

that is specifically protected for its

scientific, natural, educational, cultural,

heritage and/or public enjoyment."

"It is an amazing thing for the area,"

Will enthuses. "I am really keen for

people to appreciate how special the

dark sky designation is and to spread the

word about its significance, because it is

vulnerable. The LED lighting revolution

could be a disaster for astronomy and

people being aware of these issues when

installing lights is really important – a

single security light from 1km away can

affect the visibility of objects and quality

of images.

"Exmoor is where I do most of my dark

sky photography, especially the very

dark, far western side of the moor. I also

do a lot around Exford. In the summer

months, Exmoor sees a particularly

bright, detailed and rich area of the Milky

Way over the southern horizon; we are

looking towards its heart in summer

– a central bulge, full of rich, dense star

fields and dark patches, which are not

an absence of stars, but silhouettes of

dust clouds. There are also some nebulae

visible to the naked eye here – if you

look for the faint form of the Milky Way,

you may see small ghostly patches, half a

little-fingernail at arm's length... these are

little star-nurseries. The Lagoon nebula

can be seen without binoculars on very

clear, transparent summer nights. Also the

Andromeda galaxy, 2.5 million light years

away – that says a lot about the clarity of

Exmoor's skies, they really are something

to celebrate and protect."

READ MORE

willgater.com

www.willgaterastrophotography.com

www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/enjoying/stargazing

Left, from top: Harvest moon rise, 24 September 2018;

twilight star trails over Dartmoor National Park, 17 June 2017;

Mars, eight days after opposition, rising over Exmoor National Park, 4 August 2018.


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GARDENS

Telling Stories:

Plants and Gardens

at Dunster Castle

WORDS by Rosemary FitzGerald

CONTEMPORARY PHOTOS

by Julia Amies-Green


So my perception of the Castle was long

restricted to an historic image of a famous

picture (the raising of the Green Howards

regiment), interest in a rare tree, and shopping

trips to Minehead enlivened on days when a

magnificent farm animal is visible. Then, during

document sorting after the death of Sir Walter

Luttrell at East Quantoxhead, fate gave me a

clue to the possible importance of gardens at

the Castle.

During thirty years of living in West Somerset I have never thought of

Dunster Castle in terms of its gardens. Some National Trust properties

are defined by theirs, but Dunster has such presence in the landscape,

perched on its rock above the outstandingly picturesque village, that its

appearance from a distance governs all other impressions. It's famous as the

long-term seat of the Luttrell family, and has countless associations with the

history of the Quantocks and Exmoor. There are daily and annual additions

to that famous view – Dunster Show is held on the former Polo Field, and

sometimes impressive longhorn cattle graze the fields. For botanists there is

the presence of true black poplar trees along fence lines (and we grieve the

occasional loss). These trees can be part of landscape history – females are

extremely rare in Britain, so most trees must have been deliberately planted,

and they were long used as boundary markers for parishes and ownerships.

They are a speciality of former and present Luttrell holdings, from Kilve to

Minehead.

A collection of paper fragments was found,

possibly assembled to make something like

one of the 'scrap screens' which were a popular

Victorian schoolroom craft. Among them were

watercolour images of single auricula flowers.

Like many gardeners I had longed to grow

these difficult primrose relatives, and dreamed

(in vain!) of them looking perfect on the

shelves of MY Auricula Theatre, so I was

immediately excited by these little portraits.

After a lucky contact with the National Primula

and Auricula Society, it became clear that

they were of enormous interest. Auriculas

were popular in the eighteenth century, with

many colour forms named, but connecting

the names to the flowers is a huge challenge

for auricula historians. In these scraps each

individual flower (a 'pip' in auricula-speak) has

its name in careful sepia copperplate, often

combining a patron or royal personage with

the raiser's name, such as 'Higg's Prince Charles'

and 'Perry's King George'. Some have Scottish

tags, 'Culloden Duke' and 'Bonny Highlander',

or more classical references like 'Gloria Mundi'

and 'Andromeda'. The collection is now archived

by the Society, and an article appeared

in their Yearbook in 2012, titled 'The Dunster

Auriculas'.


This excited me as a gardener, and made me

speculate on the possible nature of gardens at

Dunster Castle before 1800, but life intervened,

and it was only the commission to write on this

subject which finally turned my full attention

to what now exists. Before I visited I had rather

unkindly wondered where any gardens might

be – there's a big rock with very steep sides,

and a big house with a lot of stone walls, and

a big car park in the top of the former actual

Park – how could anything else fit in? I knew

a National Collection of arbutus had been

grown here, which I could visualise as I know

the Mediterranean species growing in various

steep, rocky habitats in the wild, but it never

sounded like a huge attraction. Strawberry tree

Arbutus unedo makes an excellent garden

shrub in many local gardens, and seeing these

was good enough for me. However, I had

reckoned without that force which drives all

gardeners – passion.

There are actually plenty of gardens, all differing,

in the Castle grounds. Their present forms are

due to two particular characters, both with the

mainspring of a strong passion for plants and

garden design and an equally strong wish to

enhance a setting so rich in history. First comes

Alys Luttrell (1888-1974), who created gardens

here for more than 40 years after her marriage

to Geoffrey Luttrell in 1930 brought her from

her home (and influential home garden) at

Trawalla in Victoria province, Australia. By all

accounts she was a formidable lady, but in

garden terms her commands brought only

good! She certainly inspired loyal, skilled staff.

One, Sam Hardwick, is shown in the late

Hilary Binding's book, Dunster: A Changing

Community, looking the ultimate wise and

benign image of a traditional head gardener.

Alys keenly researched interesting plants and

designed parterres and borders which

demonstrated Gertrude Jekyll's Arts and Crafts

principles, combining formal layout with

exuberant, colourful plantings. Her meticulous

notebook still exists. It's full of fascinating detail,

with sketches and plant lists, and gives clues

to important nurseries of the time.

Probably the most influential was Treseders'

of Truro. They were a nursery, like Veitchs' of

Exeter, which introduced many now-familiar

exotics to Britain. Specialising in Australian

species, including Phormiums and eucalyptus,

they began to put tree ferns and mimosa

(perfect for West Country gardens) on many

wish lists. Their catalogues included cultural

advice, and their staff often came on site to

give customers guidance. The River Garden

and terraces still have shrubs and tree ferns

which must have been their recommendations.

Alys Luttrell's purchases were meticulously

recorded in her notebook, making it possible

to trace planting histories.

Knowledge of which plants she favoured is

now fascinating another person of passion.

Robin Andrews, the current head gardener,

loves garden history, and during his stewardship

here has done some intense research into the

nature of both Alys’ gardens and the much

earlier history of the Castle grounds. A striking

feature of the Castle mound has long been the

presence of yew trees. An iconic illustration

from 1733 shows the serpentine road up the

mound winding through dozens of ‘lollipop’

yews. Only a few old trees remain, but Robin

believes them to be an essential part of the

history of the site, and that this species should

again be a strong part of its visual character.

Pages 72-73, along the top

from far left: The South

Terrace in 1954 (we are not

sure who Alys is standing with

- perhaps a reader recognises

him?); Alys Luttrell; the

Dream Garden in the 1930s,

photographed by Ronald

Ford; a photo of the Dream

Garden which appeared in

The Field on 29 August 1963;

members of Redland Lawn

Tennis Club from Bristol in the

Dream Garden, 1930s (also by

Ronald Ford); Sam Hardwick,

head gardener at Dunster

Castle for many years. After

his death in 1957, his second

wife, Mollie, began her

collection of 250 dolls that

form the basis of Dunster's

Doll Museum (photo courtesy

of Halsgrove Publishing).

Above: Alys Luttrell, with her

groom, in her pony trap,

for which she was well known

in Dunster.

Page 71: Springtime views of

the Dunster Castle gardens

(all by Julia Amies-Green).


Gardens

have inspired Robin to do what I so applaud in

Fergus Garrett's handling of Christopher Lloyd's

heritage at Great Dixter – to honour and run

with the ideas and spirit, but NOT to copy. This

garden is open to all, not just Castle visitors. It

is currently in varying stages of redevelopment

(it was grassed down or made into stock beds

around 1980), so some parts may be immature

and experimental, but it's always interesting,

and must be a great pleasure for regular visitors

who can follow Robin's ideas as they grow.

Above: Dunster Castle in a fanciful illustration of 1733, showing the yew trees.

Below: The original lemon house in summer with its shutters off and,

below that, behind glass ready for winter.

Bottom: Dunster Castle's River Garden (both by Julia Amies-Green).

The steep banks, in the years between seven

full-time Edwardian gardeners and today's

much smaller (if just as dedicated) team, had

become overgrown with laurel and ivy. They

are now being cleared, and replanted with

cuttings taken from the original stock.

Managing big trees on precipitous slopes is not

a practical proposition in the twenty-first

century, so Robin's stylish and far-sighted

solution is mixing the yew with Griselinia

littoralis AGM, an evergreen appropriately from

the antipodes. Plantings, in elegant wave patterns,

will be kept trimmed low, so the banks will be

clothed in a tapestry of shining, bright-green

leaves and dark conifer needles year round,

combining deep history with modern design.

His most detailed research concerns what Alys

called her 'Dream Garden'. Aerial photos from

the 1970s show much of the heart of Dunster,

including round the church, still given over

to Castle vegetable gardens, but this narrow

enclosure adjoins yard buildings between the

mound and the street. Here she designed

borders and a parterre which look delicious

even in the most blurred of old photos and

postcards. Her notebook, pictorial evidence,

and memories from living family members,

The most obvious garden element for the

wider public is the South Terrace. This runs

beside the house, outside the Conservatory.

It's cleverly kept in proper Edwardian style with

brilliant carpet bedding, but uses the best and

brightest of modern plants. The sheltered wall

now has exotics such as cannas and banana

trees in place all summer, making an exciting

show. The house wall also has one of my

favourite oddities – the Lemon Frame. There's

been a lemon tree here since at least 1757

(many grand eighteenth-century houses had

them) but instead of being grown in a large

pot and brought in over winter, this grew,

espaliered, in a sort of large cupboard, with a

glass-paned door put in place in cold weather.

The original tree died in the winter of 2003/04

and what actually grows there now has a story

worthy of its own article, involving plants given

to old retainers as retirement gifts, losses and

finds! However, Robin has disentangled the

threads, and a plant of the original stock will

soon return to this strange abode.

I was so wrong to think of Dunster Castle

as having little to do with gardens – thanks

especially to these two passionate people it is

at least as thick with horticultural history and

interest as with its more familiar claims to fame.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT VISITING

DUNSTER CASTLE AND GARDENS

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/dunster-castle

(Grateful thanks to the National Trust for

archive photos.)


Dunster Add some Castle colour and to

Gardens your weekend this

Spring is in the air...

autumn at Gibside

Open 10am - 5pm now is the perfect

time to wander the gardens. Spot

snowdrops in the River Garden and

Go crunching through fallen leaves and discover a forest

teeming with wildlife and autumn colours, with walking

routes for all ages and abilities.

enjoy the sweetly scented hyacinths on

the South Terrace.

Call nationaltrust.org.uk/gibside

01643 821314 for details

nationaltrust.org.uk/dunster-castle

When you visit, donate, volunteer or join the National


Trust, support helps your us support to look after helps special us places to look <in the after region> special <like

property X, property Y and Proeprty Z> in for ever, for everyone.

places for ever, for everyone.

© National Trust 2018. The National Trust is an

© National Trust 2016. The National Trust is an independent

independent registered charity, number registered 205846. charity, Photography number © National Trust

Images.

205846. Photography © National Trust Images.

#nationaltrust


WALKING

BRENDON HILL IRON MINERS

AND NETTLECOMBE'S GREAT PARK

WORDS by Sue Viccars,

with an entry on Nettlecombe by Pat Wolseley

PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs

Religious buildings can provide many clues about the past make-up of a place. Tiny churches in

remote hamlets on Exmoor – Stoke Pero and Trentishoe, for example – that once served triple

the number of farms and houses that survive today; surprisingly large churches – St Helena's on

Lundy – that catered for the needs of hundreds of quarrymen digging granite out of the cliffs on this

small island in the Bristol Channel.

And so it is with Leighland's Church of St Giles, seen from this walk and perched above the steepsided

valley of the little Washford River in the Brendon Hills near Roadwater. The church was rebuilt

in 1862 to serve the growing ranks of iron miners coming to extract ore from the surrounding rolling

hills. The West Somerset Mineral Line Association (www.wsmla.org.uk) today keeps alive the memory

of a time when these hills were buzzing with activity, and a railway line – the ‘Mineral Line',

encountered on this route – was built to transport ore to the coast at Watchet.

But on reaching Nettlecombe Court later on, the walk's historic interest stretches further back in time

to the twelfth century and beyond… read on to find out more!


Here: The Nettlecombe estate's rolling parkland.

Below, left to right: Pit Wood; Nettlecombe Church contains treasures aplenty, including the effigy of Sir Simon de Ralegh, 1260;

Point 8 offers up an amazing panorama towards Minehead; the optional loop in Point 2 includes a lush path of wild garlic

in springtime; views of the Bristol Channel are enjoyed from Point 7; a steep stile encountered on Point 8.


Here: The bridlepath in Point 3 offers fantastic views back down the valley.

FACTFILE

MAP

OS Explorer 9 Exmoor; OS Landranger

181 Minehead & Brendon Hills

START

Roadwater Stores ST 032383

PARKING

Car park (free) by the playing fields

behind Roadwater Village Hall

DISTANCE & TIME

6 miles (9.7km) with optional

¾-mile extension; 3 hours

1

Start

8

7

6

TERRAIN

Rolling hills, field and woodland paths;

plenty of ups and downs

TOILETS

None on route

REFRESHMENTS

The Valiant Soldier, Roadwater;

Roadwater Stores (open Mon–Sat

8am–7pm, Sun 9am–2pm)

2

Optional

extension

3

4

5

NOTE

There are pheasants everywhere –

please keep dogs under close control.

©Crown copyright 2019 Ordnance Survey. Media 008/19


Walking

THE ROUTE

1 With your back to the shop turn

left along the lane, soon passing the

telephone box (Roadwater book

exchange). Pass Watersmeet Close, then

turn immediately left down the next

narrow lane, signed to the Mineral

Line (on the Coleridge Way).

After a few paces, reach a lane junction

(Mineral Line). Keep straight on, uphill

(below), soon turning right on a bridleway

to Sticklepath that parallels the Mineral

Line along the valley side, but has much

better views! Head through fields and

patches of woodland – look upvalley to

spot the church at Leighland Chapel (on

the site of a medieval chapel) above the

trees. An ENPA waymark directs the path

left, dropping through a gate into a field.

2 Reach another bridleway junction.

To visit Leighland Chapel, turn right on

the bridlepath signed to LC. Cross the

lane; follow the path (below) steeply

uphill to reach a tarmac drive; turn right

and head up to reach a lane; turn left to

pass the church. Follow the lane

downhill; pass Pitt Farm, then turn

sharp left to pass Pitt Mill and cross the

stream. Head up to the Mineral Line;

cross over and bear right under trees

(signed to Chidgley), soon turning sharp

left to meet the main route at Point 3.

Leighland Chapel.

veteran oak at the top of the field (above)

and go through a gate to meet a path

crossroads. Follow the permitted path to

Chidgley ahead (the Coleridge Way turns

right to Sticklepath), soon descending

towards farm buildings. Pass through

a gate, keep right of the buildings, and

through two more gates to reach the

road.

4 Cross the road with care and turn right;

where the road bears right turn left on

a footpath to Nettlecombe, passing in

front of the beautiful house at Chidgley

Farm and through a signed gate in a

wooden fence (below). Keep ahead,

Cross a bridge and go through the next

gate, then continue along the valley side,

through a nice stand of tall slender beech

trees. Views open up over pretty cottages

in the valley bottom (below). Keep straight

on at a bridleway/footpath crossroads

(bottom), negotiating occasional gates.

For the main route keep straight on;

the next gate leads into Pit Wood. Pass a

steeply descending footpath (signed to

the Mineral Line), and a few paces later

reach a fork. The Leighland Chapel

extension joins via the right fork.

3 Keep ahead, ascending gently. Where

the path bends very sharp left keep

straight on, passing through a gate. The

bridlepath runs along the top edge of a

huge sloping field, with wonderful views

(page 78, top), alongside a lovely ash

and beech bank (below). Pass a solitary

passing behind farm buildings; where

the track bears left keep straight on, soon

passing through a gate into a field. Head

along the bottom left edge, and straight

across the next field, heading for the far

right corner; the Quantock ridge comes

into view. Cross two stiles; head down

the left edge of the next field as best you

can (patches of dense bracken), soon

descending under trees, with a steep drop

left. Go through a small gate (please shut

the gate and keep dogs on leads, below).

Pass a small stone building, at the right

end of which a yellow arrow directs you

straight ahead up the drive, between a

pond and a large house.


Ralegh’s Cross Inn

Exmoor National Park, Somerset

An Exmoor

Country Inn

ideal for a

midweek

break or just

a relaxing

weekend

away!

Enjoy a taste of a

spring at Fyne Court

tea room.

When you sink your teeth into our seasonal

treats, park in the car park or join the National

Trust, you help us to look after Fyne Court for

ever, for everyone.

Call 01823 451 587 for details

nationaltrust.org.uk/fyne-court


support helps us to look after special places for ever, for everyone.

© National Trust 2018. The National Trust is an independent registered charity, number 205846.

Photography © National Trust Images\Chris Lacey.

#nationaltrust

We are a privately owned Freehouse situated 1300’ up

on the eastern edge of the Exmoor National Park.

On a clear day, there are splendid views west to Dunkery

Beacon, the highest point on Exmoor and north to the

Bristol Channel and the Welsh hills beyond.

Now opening 7 days a week,

with food available all day from Easter.

Brendon Hill, Exmoor, Somerset, TA23 0LN

Tel: 01984 640 343

raleghscrossuk@gmail.com • www.raleghs-cross.co.uk

- Guided walking holidays


5 The drive bears sharp right, but keep

ahead to a path junction; bear left to

Nettlecombe on a broad fenced path

(below). Pass through two gates, then

under huge oak trees as the track meets

open parkland, with Nettlecombe Court

and church ahead. Pause to take a look

at the well behind iron railings to the left,

with the inscription 'erected by John

Trevelyan of Yarnscombe who married

Alice the heiress of Champernowne…

and died 1558'.

Head across the parkland and through an

iron kissing gate to meet the drive to the

house and St Mary's Church. Keep ahead

under soaring sweet chestnut trees,

passing between gateposts topped with

rearing horse torsos (below).

6 Follow the bridlepath left off the drive,

passing the back of the churchyard

(below), soon bearing right then left in

front of the stableyard and coachhouse.

The track bears right, but keep ahead,

uphill, through an open gateway. Stay on

the main track, uphill. After 75m

NETTLECOMBE COURT

WORDS by Pat Wolseley

Nettlecombe Court sits in a valley below the wooded edge of the Brendon hills

in a pasture landscape that is much the same as when it was first described in

the Domesday book of 1086. Today it is a Field Centre for students of all ages,

with classrooms and labs – the most recent of many changes since the house was

first described as a small manor house in the twelfth century. Over time it has been

adapted and enlarged to suit the families who have lived here since then. The medieval

hall, now a kitchen, was entered from the back courtyard, but in 1599 the much

grander hall was built in the Elizabethan style with a porch and entrance that is still

in use today.

The landscape has also undergone many changes but features of the ancient wood

pasture remain in the scattered veteran oak trees across the park, up the Grove (an

earlier entrance to Nettlecombe) and along the boundaries. It is difficult to age these

trees as many are hollow in the centre, so we can only use their girth as an estimate of

age, but this suggests that most are well over 200 years old and some of the pollards in

the Great Park, which are up to 10m circumference, may be much older. Nettlecombe

oak trees (Quercus petraea) were highly valued for their timber that was used for many

building purposes, as well as shipbuilding, which required special shapes from open

grown trees. In 1591 Nettlecombe oaks were shipped from Watchet to build a market

house in Cornwall. Trees were regularly sold individually in the nineteenth century, with

bark being sold for use in the local tanneries. You can walk between the remnants of

these great oaks before crossing the road to Chidgley and continuing through a much

more agricultural landscape to Woodadvent. When John Veitch of Exeter landscaped

the Great Park in 1792 he incorporated many of these veteran trees and added clumps

of trees on the crests of the hills to the south of the house in the Capability Brown style

which was popular at that time. The Trevelyans were keen to plant new introductions

in their landscape and woodlands, such as the huge turkey oak (Quercus cerris)

immediately above the west wing. A native of Asia Minor, Asiatic Turkey, this tree must

have been planted soon after its introduction to Britain in 1735. Later introductions

included the New World discoveries such as the giant sequoia and the redwoods

in the nineteenth-century pleasure grounds.

When you return to Nettlecombe from Chidgley you look across Veitch's park before

returning along the valley. The cottage in the valley and fields around it were formerly

glebe land belonging to the church and separate from the thirteenth-century church at

Nettlecombe. These lands were exchanged and incorporated into the park and Combe

House was built as a rectory for the second son in 1794. Today there are no signs of

the other cottages around Parsonage Pond that were removed during the landscaping

of the park, but maybe the inhabitants were pleased to move to new houses at

Woodford on a 'main' road! A more recent change is the loss of the great elms that

were characteristic of this landscape, due to Dutch Elm disease, although you can still

find the smaller remnants in our hedges with their distinctive lop-sided leaves.


Walking

look left across rough grassland to spot

a gate (below) leading into a huge

ascending field. Head up the left edge

of the field, climbing steadily.

7 Cross over (signed to Roadwater; taking

care as traffic can be fast on this stretch of

road), and head up a track. Stay alongside

the left hedge of the next field, ascending

steadily – views open up over the Bristol

Channel (below).

a track in the bottom corner and head

downhill (bottom) through the next field,

to meet a lane (below).

Cross a stile on the left in the top corner,

and continue in the same direction,

alongside a fence, uphill. Pass just to the

left of a big oak with a yellow splodge,

and climb steeply to find a kissing gate

onto the road (below).

A run of gates and fields – with wonderful

views towards Minehead and the coast

(below) – follows. Eventually cross a stile

in the hedge at the end of the field, and

keep along the right hedge of the next,

crossing the brow of the hill, with views

over the Brendon Hills, the wooded ridge

above Dunster and North Hill. Pick up

8 Cross over, signed to Roadwater. Keep

straight ahead, along an uncultivated

strip, soon walking alongside woodland.

At the end of the wood turn left along

its edge and head steeply downhill,

following the left edge of the next small

field. Cross a stile, and continue along

the left edge of the next big field.

Cross a stile on the left in the bottom

corner; turn right; after a few paces turn

right then immediately left, passing

a broken stile, on a narrow path into

woodland. Descend under very tall oak

and beech trees to meet the lane via

a stile by a wooden gate.

Turn right downhill, passing the outward

route and the Mineral Line. On meeting

the valley road turn right to return to

your car.


TWO MOORS WAY

EVENTS 2019

Walks and music – please join us!

The Notley Arms is a traditional country inn

tucked away on the edge of the beautiful

Exmoor National Park where the food

celebrates the best of both Exmoor and the West

Country’s outstanding seasonal larder. A warm

welcome awaits: rebuilt in around 1870, the inn

enjoys roaring open fires and a beautiful beer

garden bounded by a bubbling tream and

separate coach house with six en-suite bedrooms

– perfect for visitors wanting to explore the

Quantocks, the Brendon Hills and Exmoor.

The Notley’s new ‘Roost’ private dining room

accommodates up to 28 guests – a beautiful,

sumptious space in which to sit back and enjoy

a showcase of beautiful menus paired with

excellent wines.

6 April BIG WALK 3 Newbridge to Chagford

7 June NINEBARROW in concert, Chagford

14 Sept BIG WALK 4 Chagford to Morchard Road

Details www.twomoorsway.org

Come and savour our perfectly executed

traditional pub classics alongside modern British

dishes, served with a crowd-pleasing selection of

award-winning beers, ciders, wines and spirits.

For those who require an extra special

occasion please ask about one of our five

beautifully appointed ensuite bedrooms.

Traditional home-cooked

meals with ‘weekly

specials’, vegetarian

and light snacks.

Sunday & Wednesday

Carvery lunch and

evening meal times.

Comprehensive

wine list.

Locally produced

real ales.

01643 841222

This old coaching inn is situated at

Wheddon Cross, the highest village

on Exmoor. We pride ourselves on

our high standards of service and

accommodation which is full of olde

world charm and friendly hospitality.

The Valiant Soldier

Roadwater, Watchet, Somerset TA23 OQZ

A friendly, olde world inn full of warmth & hospitality

and surrounded by beautiful, peaceful countryside.

Traditional, local real ales, wines

and spirits. Tasty home cooking,

available 7 days a week.

Ideally placed for exploring Exmoor,

the Brendon & Quantock Hills or

just 10 minutes drive away from the

coast at Watchet.

We are situated half way along The

Coleridge Way. Perfect for an over

night stop and well deserved meal!

Tel: 01984 640223 • www.thevaliantsoldier.co.uk

The Notley Arms Inn, Monksilver

Exmoor National Park

Somerset TA4 4JB

01984 656095

notleyarmsinn@hotmail.com

www.notleyarmsinn.co.uk


Notley Arms Half Page Vertical.indd 1 14/12/2018 14:56

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Please call for more information and quote VIN for a free bottle of wine with your property visit

01271 813777 devon@marsdens.co.uk

www.marsdens.co.uk

PROPERTY

Exmoor

Living

DAVID LETHABY, GTH, CHANIN & THOMAS

Minehead Kitchens

& Bathrooms

BrunellMortgages 85_Layout 1 16/10/2018 13:52 Page 1

C o r n e r s t o n e

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l Residential mortgages

l Buy-to-let mortgages

l Landlord's insurance

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Free Design & quotation

Quirke Street Minehead

West Somerset

Tel: 01643 704404

“FOR GLORIOUS GARDENS & PERFECT PONDS”

• P ON D C ON STR UCTION, CLEARANCE & CLEAN I NG

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TELEPHONE PLYMOUTH 01752 200002

97 Mutley Plain, Plymouth, PL4 6JJ

YOUR HOME MAY BE REPOSSESSED IF YOU DO NOT KEEP UP REPAYMENTS ON

A MORTGAGE OR ANY OTHER DEBT SECURED ON IT

It's no secret that the hectic city life isn't for everyone. Times

change, as do people, and many are left craving a lifestyle

change and some well-needed fresh air. A stark contrast of

this is the hills and vast moors that cover Exmoor – which lulls

visitors from all over like a siren.

But what is it about this mysterious area that latched itself onto

the likes of poets Shelley and Wordsworth? The area is known

for its haunting ability to resonate with its visitors, leaving

a lasting taste to return, and many of its admirers make the

move for this enchanting way of life.

One of those many people was our very own Nick Zorab,

Residential Manager at our Williton office, who moved to the

area ten years ago.

He says, "In many ways my wife and I are similar to many people

who move to West Somerset. We had lived in Hampshire all our

lives and had visited the area for holidays many times, Exmoor

in our case. A decade ago, after 20 years of running our own

business, we felt it was time to change gear and have a bit more

time doing the other things we wanted to do."

With countless country walks, cycle routes, horse riding and

numerous other rural pursuits on offer, Exmoor is a place that

locals and visitors alike hold in their hearts; it entices people

to downsize and move across the country.

"Exmoor is small as National Parks go," adds Nick, "but is,

thankfully, not crowded in the summer. Its charms are varied

with the well-known spots like Tarr Steps, Valley of Rocks the

picturesque village of Dunster with its castle, and the

less-well-known discoveries that you stumble upon when

you live in a locality."

As well as its hidden paths and walks, the area is extremely

popular due to the house prices being significantly lower than

the likes of London and the rest of the South East. With a range

of options, from new-builds to thatched cottages, Exmoor and

the surrounding area has something for everyone.

Despite being very rural and quietly hidden amongst the hedges,

we're extremely lucky to have a strong connection to the rest of

the country, with the M5 on our doorstep which connects us to

the busier way of life.

Without doubt, people move to Exmoor for a quieter life,

but, once they really start to experience life here, they become

increasingly enchanted by the area's rich history, its charming

villages and beguiling moors.

Whether you're looking to move your family down for a

different way of life, or considering retiring in the countryside,

it's no doubt that Exmoor is the place to be.



Alasdair Robertson ARCHITECTURE

As featured in ‘Exmoor’, Spring 2015

WELLINGTON TILE

EXTERNAL PAVING

S T O N E C L A D D I N G

Design, Surveys &

Project Management

• new‐build

• extensions

• conversions

• listed ‐ buildings

• renovations

For initial consultation

please call Alasdair on:

01984 636065

or 07765 664876

Email: AJR@ARArch.net • www.AlasdairRobertsonARCHITECTURE.co.uk

Pauls Carpets & Flooring

CARPETS • VINYL • WOODS

Commercial & Domestic

FREE ESTIMATES

WOOD FLOORING SUPPLIED & FITTED

Tel: 01884 257247 • Mob: 07989 303834

Bay H • Link House • Leat Street • Tiverton • Devon EX16 5LG

EXMOOR COUNTRY INTERIORS

Exmoor Country Interiors is a family run

business located in the coastal town of

Minehead in Somerset, at the foot of North

Hill and a short stroll from the very

attractive Blenheim Gardens.

You will find an array of gorgeous items

along with unique furnishings to help

transform your house into a home, or which

will make lovely gifts for friends and family.

Our suppliers have been hand-picked for their design, quality, and sometimes

quirky items. Why not call in for a browse? New items arrive weekly.

We love our shop and are sure you will too.

Exmoor Country Interiors • 1 The Avenue • Minehead • Somerset •TA24 5NN

www.exmoorcountr yinteriors.co.uk

sales@exmoorcountr yinteriors.co.uk

Tel: 01643 818637

Doors

Windows

Patio Doors

Conservatories

Secondary Glazing

Of Minehead

Barden Works, Brunel Way, Minehead Enterprise

Park, Minehead, Somerset. TA24 5BY

www.exmoorwindows.co.uk

Handmade Curtains, Roman Blinds and

Accessories

Design and Measuring Services Available

Fabric Sourcing, Pole and Track Ranges

Highly Experienced Maker

Alterations Undertaken

Friendly and Approachable

THORNHAYES

NURSERY

Devon's Specialist Tree Grower

A huge choice of

ornamental, fruit

and hedging trees,

selected to suit the

West Country

climate. From whips

to standards, field

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with advice based

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Fully descriptive catalogue online or contact:

Thornhayes Nursery, Dulford,

Cullompton, EX15 2DF

Tel: 01884 266746

www.thornhayes-nursery.co.uk

Contact Sarah on 07701 062902 or

enquiries@coswaysoftfurnishings.co.uk

www.coswaysoftfurnishings.co.uk

F I R E P I T S

Wellington Tile Company

Tone Estate, Milverton Road, Wellington, Somerset, TA21 0AN

Call 01823 667242 • Email info@wellingtontile.co.uk

www.wellingtontile-online.co.uk

www.paving-online.co.uk

Peter Schofield

Clock specialist

THE OLD STABLES HONITON

01823 601685

07969051656

www.peterschofieldclockspecialist.co.uk

peterschofieldclockspecialist@gmail.com


PLANNING LAW

Listed Buildings

AMY CATER, TOZERS

You're looking for a property to develop. You know that

development of a listed building can be a headache,

with numerous hoops to jump through before

development can begin and so you avoid viewing any listed

buildings. You have seen a property that you like which is

not listed. However, it is close to a listed building. Can that

listed building still affect your development proposals?

The answer is "Possibly"!

If you submit a planning application for permission to develop

property that is located near to a listed building, the Local

Planning Authority (LPA) is required to have special regard

to the desirability of preserving the setting of that listed

building when deciding whether or not to grant you planning

permission. To 'have special regard' means that the LPA must

place considerable importance and weight on the impact a

proposed development could have on the setting of a listed

building or other heritage asset when deciding whether to grant

permission. Consequently, if the proposed development will

lead to substantial harm to the setting of the listed building,

permission is likely to be refused.

But what exactly is the setting of a listed building? Unfortunately,

this is not always clear. In the National Planning Policy Guidance

the "setting of a heritage asset" is described as "the surroundings

in which a heritage asset is experienced and may therefore be

more extensive than its curtilage... The contribution that setting

makes to the significance of the heritage asset does not

depend on there being public rights or an ability to access or

experience that setting. This will vary over time and according

to circumstance." There is no single test that can be applied to

determine the exact extent of a listed building's setting. It has to

be determined on a case-by-case basis and involves not only

taking into account any physical or visual connection the

property has with the listed building, but any other relevant

experience, such as any social, historic or economic

connections, or any auditory connection, etc.

What does this mean in practice? The fact that a property is not

listed does not necessarily mean that you can disregard heritage

considerations when making your application for planning

permission. When planning to develop property you will need

to investigate whether there are any listed buildings located

within the vicinity and research whether there could be any

connection between your property and those listed buildings.

If there is any potential connection between your property and

a listed building you will need to carefully consider whether

your proposed development could have a negative impact on

the setting of that listed building and, if it does, what measures

you could propose to minimise the harm caused and make the

development acceptable to the LPA.

It may not always be clear whether a property would be within

the setting of a listed building and so, before submitting any

planning application, it would be advisable to either contact

your LPA or seek specialist advice.

S O F T F U R N I S H I N G S

O F E X M O O R A N D W E S T S O M E R S E T

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Range

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New and Reconditioned Sales

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Tel/Fax: 01271 860138

EXMOOR SKIP HIRE

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MINEHEAD TA24 5BJ


INTERIORS

Benshayes

WORDS by Rupert White

PHOTOS by John Spurr Photography

It is not always easy imagining a new space,

especially when you have grown up with it

as a barn since you were born. We live on

the family farm just outside Bampton where

my father and his father before him were

brought up, and it is safe to say not much has

changed in that time. In 1997 the film The

Land Girls was filmed here. When the location

manager first came to look at the yard, he

said that yes it would be the ideal site, "but

we will have to update it a bit so it looks a bit

more like a farm in the 1940s!"

Once the film crew moved out, my parents decided to embark on converting the

network of barns that surround the duck pond. They started with a two-bedroom

cottage, and in 2007 began on the main set of stables – for years home to our

horses and now to be a three-bedroom house. I was working in interior design in

London at the time and was not sure how I felt about this conversion; little did

I know that it would be home for my family in the future.

We moved in here in 2011 just after our eldest daughter was born. I had just set

up my business, Rupert White Interiors, and so we had to make do with what we

had. It wasn't until 2017 that we set our sights on the large hay barn that adjoined

our house. It was perfect for development. By this time we had two children

and were running out of space. The business needed a new base and I thought it

would be good to have a home office. My father incredibly kindly agreed.

The barn was two floors. The ground floor had arched doorways which had once

been stables and the milking parlour. The first floor was the hay barn, also used

to shear sheep and thresh oats. It had by this time fallen into some disrepair, the

floor was unsafe and the roof had some holes in it, plus the walls were bulging in

places. However, I could see how the space was to be. Luckily my wife trusted me

to go ahead, and of course I was put on the right path if she felt I was going too

far off track!

Top: A photo of the house from across the

pond. The right-hand section was the original

part of the house, with the left being the recent

renovation. The large picture window makes

the most of the view and the light.

Above: Looking from the kitchen towards

the living room. The original scissor beams

(thus shaped to make it easier to stack hay)

have simply had some wax applied.

Our family friend, Dominic Harvey, who farms and builds in equal measure,

stepped into the breach and said he could do the conversion. He had originally

converted the stables and we knew he was up to it. We started on 1 May 2017.

The primary job was to take out the first floor. Once this was gone, we were met

with this enormous space. I have to say at times I did wonder how we were going

to fill it. It turns out that was not a problem!

The best view is from upstairs, so we decided to have the kitchen there. This means

it benefits from the ceiling height. Due to the barns having no connecting door,

we could carry on living in our house uninterrupted, but were here to keep a

close eye on the works. The only day-to-day inconvenience we had was when


Interiors

our cooker was moved. Compared with some of my clients, I know we got off

very lightly! It was an extremely satisfying project to manage and the process has

given me a very useful new insight as to what my clients are going into when I am

managing their projects.

We nearly had a disaster when our window contractor let us know in October

2017 that they weren't going to be able to make the windows in time. Luckily, Rob

Plume, from Wedgewood Buildings Ltd, came to our rescue and produced all of

the windows which are fantastic and much commented on. We moved into the

house on 9 December 2017, in time for Christmas.

We have created a light-filled, spacious barn, which is warm and cosy. The old

kitchen in the original part of the house has now become a spare room for guests

and the old sitting-room has been split into two: on one side is my office with all

the pattern books and other tools of the trade and on the other a twin bedroom,

with a new connecting door to the other part of the house.

In the new barn we have a fantastic utility room in which we used some of the old

kitchen units. So now we have a clean space for all the washing and a home for

our dog when she is not in front of the AGA! There is also a large boot room with

plenty of coat hooks (so the children have no excuse for coats being dumped on

the floor) and a shower room.

Upstairs we have a kitchen that works for both of us really well. I love the look of

it and the actual cook (Trish) loves the layout. The island is the main focus. The

kitchen table was made from scaffolding boards that were used inside the house.

The remaining furniture we already had and, finally, there was more space for our

pictures. I have a huge weakness for buying pictures and having the high walls

helps as there is lots of space to hang them. I find nothing more satisfying than

hanging pictures and often get called in by clients to do just that for them.

Above: The stairs in the new entrance hall.

Below, clockwise from small image below

left: The kitchen island dominates one end of

the fabulous barn space and its position means

washing up is never dull, with a good view

to both the front and back of the house, which

is built into a hill so that the kitchen's rear

door leads you outside; the corridor between

the bedrooms; the four-poster in the master

bedroom came from Trish's great-grandmother

and has been brought back to life in traditional

English chintz; the kitchen table was made

from scaffolding boards that were used on

the house when the roof was replaced.


We finished the house in May 2018, but I am not sure it will ever actually be

finished! I am already toying with the idea of changing the curtains in the twin

bedroom and I think the playroom could do with being painted. I am delighted

with what we have produced and I now bring my clients here for meetings so that

they can see how I live. It helps them to understand and visualise what I am

suggesting for their houses.

They always ask me, 'Would you do it again?' Oh yes, I loved it, but then again

I should; it is my job!

Above: The sitting-room situated at the far end of the barn is a light-filled space

and shows Rupert's love of colour and different textures. It is also a great space

for him to hang some of his paintings.

FIND OUT MORE

Rupert White Interiors

www.rupertwhiteinteriors.co.uk

rupert@rupertwhiteinteriors.co.uk

T: 07789 377 412

Left, from top: Once a stable and cider press, then a kitchen, this is now the

main guest room – Rupert likes every room to feel as homely as possible but

not to be taken too seriously either ("Working on a house is meant to be fun, so

stress should be kept to a minimum!"); the new entrance hall, formerly stables

and tack room, offers enough space for all the coats that a family manage

to accumulate and the tongue and groove echoes the room's former life;

this once-dark stable is now the downstairs WC with shower, which conforms to

Rupert's rule that you cannot have a boring colour in your downstairs loo;

the twin bedroom was once the sitting-room and these charming beds were

found in the barn before the conversion and revamped.


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Hoar Oak Publishing Ltd

E X M O O R

C R O S S W O R D

Spring 2019 by Bryan Cath

The first correct entry out of the hat on 15 May 2019 will win

one year's Exmoor Magazine subscription with a binder, to keep

or give to a friend. Send a photocopy if you would

prefer not to cut your magazine up. Please post your answer

to Crossword Competition, Exmoor Magazine,

PO Box 117, Ilfracombe, Devon EX34 4AS.

Alternatively, email it to editor@exmoormagazine.co.uk.

The winter winner is: Mrs Christine Taylor, from Dulverton.

Name:

Address:

CLUES ACROSS

1. His old grammar served up this plant they called kingcup.

(5,8)

10. No area smells quite like the seaside. (5)

11. Under the main heading of 'warship'! (9)

12. A vehicle that should be running? (6,3)

13. It sounds like a two-wheeled, self-balancing personal,

motorised transporter that can move without interruption

from one scene to another. (5)

14. When nucleoplasm loses its nape it changes into this

shellfish? (7)

16. Exmoor's elevated positions? (7)

18. A person who is quite a turn! (7)

20. A children's game played on Combe Martin hills? (7)

22. A bouffe at Covent Garden, maybe. (5)

24. A Lancaster demolished its patrimonial estate. (9)

26. A poetic end becomes this magic trick. (9)

27. There was no skin around the pig's grunts. (5)

28. Rotary fun-run from highland to strand. (6,2,5)

CLUES DOWN

2. Is it a Mexican walking fish or an atoll with an ox swimming

inside? (7)

3. Clothing to look hot in! (9)

4. Face it as a punishment. (5)

5. Steal or hug nothing when you visit this castle near

Cheriton. (9)

6. Give away one's marijuana. (5)

7. Being lazy when in labour! (5-2)

8. Items at the greengrocers, perhaps. (8,5)

9. To lose one's own identity could possibly displease

Nero. (13)

15. A country devoted to the automobile first, shows it in the

lapel! (9)

17. A prehistoric monument on Challacombe Common – a tall

gem! (4,5)

19. Sentimental writing about molasses! (7)

21. A minor small company turns out to be stupid. (7)

23. Outdated conventions can be set in this. (5)

25. Learn to leave this country. (5)

Answers from winter 2018 crossword:

Across: 1. Liable, 4. Stowford, 9. Nettle, 10. Jettison, 12. Reasoned,

13. Cheese, 15. Creative arts, 18. Yellowhammer, 21. Ape-man,

22. Raindrop, 24. Buddleia, 25. Events, 26. Tawny owl, 27. Alphas.

Down: 1. Landrace, 2. Anteater, 3. Lily of the valley, 5. Tree,

6. Watchet carnival, 7. Oyster, 8. Denier, 11. Weevils, 14. Narwhal,

16. Amaranth, 17. Proposes, 19. Rabbit, 20. Meadow, 23. View.

HOW TO SUBSCRIBE

The perfect local gift for

Mother's Day – or treat yourself!

www.exmoormagazine.co.uk

EXMOOR

THE COUNTRY MAGAZINE

free inside

Miles Tea & Co fee

ISSUE No. 65 Winter 2013 £2.95

LONG-EARED OWLS TRAINED FRUIT TREES YFC WALKING ON NORTH HILL HASHING

meet

The Waley-Cohen sisters

Folk musicians past & present

Barnstaple Fire Brigade

win

A Christmas

break worth £399!

festive fare...

Game Recipes

Goose Farming

Christmas Diary

plus

‘Dogs Helping Kids’ Horse logging

Lichens Hoar Oak Cottage Churches for the 21st century

Subscriptions from £15.

UK, Europe & International subscriptions available.

For all who love Exmoor, North Devon

& the Quantocks.

To subscribe:

call Bryan on 0345 224 1203

or go to www.exmoormagazine.co.uk


Books

A Village Inheritance,

Glyn and Clare Court,

2018. 221 pages,

paperback. Numerous

photographs and

illustrations.

Many readers will

remember local

historian Glyn Court,

who wrote copiously,

including a number

of articles for this magazine.

Glyn passed away last year and, towards

the end of his life, he worked with his

grandson, Michael, to get one final book

published. Glyn and Clare's daughter,

Philippa, emailed us to say, "My parents

had written it in the 1970s, but it lay

undisturbed, an unproofed typescript,

in an outbuilding until Michael found it.

It is the story of my parents taking on

Washford Post Office in the 1960s."

Michael wrote, "A Village Inheritance

shares a combination of family history,

local history and autobiography. It was

written when my grandparents had just

inherited Glyn's childhood home and

family business in 1967. Already leading

busy lives as teachers, they weren't

prepared for the added responsibility

and pressures which came with leading

a village shop whilst bringing up a young

family. The story details how they ran the

business, highlighting their excitement,

optimism and the difficulties they faced."

It was a painstaking process converting

the old typewritten pages into text and

a lot of work went into finding all the

original images for the book. "A notable

example were the house drawings," wrote

Michael, "which were produced in 1921

when my great-grandfather built the

property and they were clearly suffering

after almost 100 years of being in storage.

I got these digitally restored and I think

they are among my favourite parts of

the book.

Once it was finally finished, Michael

self-published the book, which is

now available in Smiths Minehead,

at Washford Post Office or Amazon,

priced at around £11.99.

The Lorna Doone

Trail, S.H. Burton,

revised and

expanded by John

Burgess and

Caroline Tonson-

Rye, 2018. 112

pages, hardback.

Illustrated in

colour throughout.

The following information

is issued by the publishers...

R.D. Blackmore's deep affection

for, and understanding of, Exmoor's

landscape, people and legends shines

through his immortal novel Lorna

Doone. Through words and pictures,

The Lorna Doone Trail traces the Exmoor

adventures of John Ridd and Lorna

Doone and a host of other characters,

such as Jeremy Stickles and Tom Faggus,

who feature in the grand sweep of

the story.

Using Blackmore's own words as the

starting point, The Lorna Doone Trail

helps to marry plot with place, using

generous illustrations and expert

commentary which puts the narrative

in its real-life context. It enables lovers of

the novel and its abounding life to follow

confidently in Blackmore's footsteps and

revisit the key locations of the timeless

Exmoor story of derring-do, and love

enduring against the odds.

S.H. Burton (1919–2005), writer, teacher,

and publisher, was head of the English

Department at Blundell's School between

1945 and 1964. He wrote many books

on a wide range of subjects, his most

successful being Exmoor (4th edition,

which was published in 1984).

John Burgess, born in Somerset, was a

BBC radio journalist and producer for

almost 25 years, but his life-long love

of Exmoor and its people first took root

when he joined the Exmoor National Park

Authority in the late 1970s. He produced

– with Caroline Tonson-Rye – Hope

Bourne’s Exmoor: Eloquence in Art

(Halsgrove, 2013).

Caroline Tonson-Rye retired to Exmoor in

2010 after a career in publishing. She is a

Trustee of The Exmoor Society, and editor

of Exmoor Chroniclers (Exmoor Society,

2017).

The Lorna Doone Trail is published

by Halsgrove (www.halsgrove.com),

priced at £9.99.

North Devon broadcaster, author and

smallholder Simon Dawson has two

new books coming out early this year.

The Boy Without Love... and The Farm

That Saved Him will be published in

February; Make Your Own Butter follows

in March.

Warm, witty and honest, The Boy Without

Love charts an unhappy childhood,

taking an honest look at parental rejection

and charting Simon's recovery, since his

unfortunate beginnings, through finding

his soul mate, to taking on a farm where

the couple care for a menagerie of animals.

From how to make butter at home, to

where to use it, Make Your Own Butter

will surprise and delight you as it offers

amusing instruction on what you need to

know, the process of making

butter, getting creative

and recipes, including

cocktails and beauty

products!

The Boy Without Love

costs £12.99 and How

to Make Butter will be

£7.99. www.simondawson.com/books.


Books

A new book

recording

Devon's

threatened

apple

varieties

has been

published

with the

support

of the Council for

the Protection of Rural England Devon.

The following information has been

issued by the CPRE...

CPRE Devon recently sponsored

The Devon Orchards Book, written by

orchard expert Michael Gee, to preserve

important knowledge of rural life and

traditions for future generations. Michael

is the founder of Orchards Live, a charity

which protects and promotes Devon's

orchards and traditional apple varieties.

He is also the author of Mazzards: The

Revival of the Curious North Devon Cherry.

Since the 1960s, two-thirds of Devon's

orchards have been lost and many

ancient apple varieties have disappeared.

In recent years, however, there's been a

revival of interest in replanting orchards,

including the creation of community

orchards, and a renaissance in microbrewing

and artisanal cider making.

Penny Mills, Director of CPRE Devon,

says, "Michael's meticulous research into

the county's fruit-growing history is a

wonderful example of what we strive

to do at CPRE Devon – preserve rural

knowledge and skills and all that is

precious about our county and our

countryside. We hope that readers of this

Jeremy Thorpe: A

Dazzlingly Talented

Man, Philip

Dalling, 2018. 128

pages, hardback.

16 pages of plates.

The following

information is

issued by the

publishers...

This is a grass-roots portrait of one of the

most charismatic politicians of the twentieth

century. The recent TV dramatisation of

the events which led to the downfall

of the flamboyant Liberal leader, Jeremy

Thorpe, has restored his name to the

media headlines, from which it was rarely

absent during his political prime.

book will be inspired to spread the word

about Devon’s very special part in the

history of British orchards.”

Michael Gee says, "It's challenging to grow

good fruit in Devon, and yet orchards

and cider are part of the county's image.

Orchards once surrounded most farms

and villages, and there are still hundreds

remaining, plus some new ones, but their

story has never been told. I wanted

to know, and others to know, how

Devonians rose to meet the fruit-growing

challenge, so I researched and wrote

this book."

Last spring, a joint project between

Orchards Live, the South West Fruit

Group and the Royal Horticultural Society

established a unique 'mother orchard' of

Devon apples at RHS Garden Rosemoor.

There are around 70 known varieties of

apple found and grown in Devon and 45

of the most threatened, including eaters,

cookers and cider apples, will be grown

on the site. The orchard will ensure that

these diverse types of ancient apples

won't die out.

Jonathan Webster, Curator of RHS Garden

Rosemoor, says, “We welcome the

production of this new book to raise

awareness of the importance of

preserving the wonderful diversity of

Devon’s traditional apple varieties,

many of which are now rare. If we can

encourage people to grow them, then

they will come off the endangered list.”

The Devon Orchards Book, published

by Halsgrove, can be bought via CPRE

Devon’s website www.cpredevon.org.uk,

priced at £14.99, or from Halsgrove.

Despite being acquitted on charges of

conspiracy and incitement to murder

during a sensational trial at the Old Bailey

in 1979, Thorpe was subsequently

excluded from all political and public

life – a fate described by one political

commentator as "infamous and unfair".

The consequences of an alleged

homosexual affair (at a time when such

acts were illegal) have coloured and

distorted perceptions of a man described

as a stylish, progressive and popular

politician, with a deep lifetime

commitment to classic liberal principles.

His leadership of the Liberals laid the

foundation for the revival of a party which

was on the verge of extinction when he

first entered political life.

A History of the Devon & Somerset

Staghounds, Jeremy Whitehorn, 2018.

262 pages, hardback. Illustrated in

colour throughout. Jeremy writes...

"The fear of omissions inevitably bedevil

those who write small books on immense

subjects. And although vastly more has

been written about the Devon &

Somerset Staghounds than any other

hunting establishment under the sun,

early historians restricted themselves on

the whole to accounts of the deer, the

country, the tufters, the harbouring

procedure, the sporting runs and suchlike.

Little is generally said about the remarkable

people who bred the hounds, managed

the deer with such foresight and care,

ran the country, raised the roofs of the

Exmoor tap-rooms and broke their backs

keeping alive this, the oldest and most

misunderstood of all our hound sports.

And so, when asked by that grand old

patriarch of the cause, Tom Yandle, to add

to the annals of the Devon & Somerset

Staghounds, it was decided that this

should be the first book to attempt an

unbroken narrative history of the hunt

from the early times right up to 2018,

with particular focus on the wonderful

characters who

made it all happen."

A History of the

Devon & Somerset

Staghounds is

priced at £25.

To find out

more about

ordering email

Jeremy Whitehorn

( jeremywhitehornbooks@gmail.com).

Philip Dalling explores the life of a man

respected and admired by friend and

opponent alike, whose name is still

revered in the West Country constituency

of North Devon, and whose name still

resonates in national politics to this day.

Philip Dalling's career in journalism and

communications has included spells in

regional newspapers, in the steel industry,

as a Government Information Officer and,

for 22 years, as Director of Public Affairs at

the University of Nottingham. He lives in

Chittlehampton, the parish where Jeremy

Thorpe established his constituency home.

Jeremy Thorpe: A Dazzlingly Talented

Man is published by Halsgrove (www.

halsgrove.com), priced at £14.99.


Minehead Literary Festival

Photo by Claire Spottiswoode

Minehead's first literary festival will take place on Saturday 27

April at the Methodist Hall, Minehead, featuring presentations

by four leading writers with ties to the area who will explore

the importance of place in their writing. An art exhibition will

also run from 2 April to 6 May at the Regal Theatre and Toucan

Wholefoods to celebrate Minehead Literary Festival, with work

by local artists that will also focus on the theme of the

importance of place (see page 109).

Speaking at the literary festival will be one of the country's

foremost writers of novels and short stories, Tessa Hadley.

Winner of the 2018 Edge Hill Short Story Prize and author of

critically acclaimed novels Clever Girl, The London Train and

The Past, Tessa Hadley has a special connection with the area

which shines through her work.

BBC radio producer, writer and bird watcher Tim Dee (pictured)

will also share his knowledge of the area and particularly his

insights into the natural world. Author of titles including Four

Fields and The Running Sky – A Birdwatching Life, Tim is an

exceptionally original storyteller, mixing autobiography with

nature writing to captivating effect. His most recently published

book, Ground Work – Writings on People and Places, is an

anthology of new work by some of the most exciting authors

writing about the natural world today, and was described in a

Guardian review as "an extraordinary and life-affirming book".

Best-selling author of first novel The Huntingfield Paintress and

winner of the Jane Austen Short Story Award in 2014, Pamela

Holmes has been fascinated by the area since she lived and

worked on a farm on Exmoor in the 1970s (see Exmoor

Magazine, Issue 85, Winter 2018, page 92).

For the younger audience, popular local writer Victoria Eveleigh

will be giving a special illustrated presentation about her muchloved

series of books Katy's Exmoor Ponies and The Horseshoe

Trilogy. Billed as 'Tea Time with Tortie', this event promises to be

a highlight of the festival and offers a chance to meet the best

contemporary writer of pony stories around.

A writing competition, with separate classes for adults and

children, will be organised in the run-up to the festival, details

of which can be found on the festival website. Catering for the

festival will be provided by Toucan Wholefoods.

For more information and details about how to book:

W: www.mineheadliteraryfestival.org

E: mineheadliteraryfestival@gmail.com

T: Janet Styles on 01643 822097.

01643 862 419

www.yourfirstbook.co.uk


PAST TIMES

Kestrels School

WORDS by Michele Romaine

Sometimes, on a quiet day, just for

a moment, I imagine I can hear

Annie the cook chiding the kitchen

maid and the drumming of boys' feet as

they scramble down the basement stairs

to get to their tuck boxes. This is a house

with a history and, since we moved here

in 2011, parts of that history have been

told to us over and over by the multiples

of people who all have a different

connection with this lovely Exmoor

Art and Crafts property.

We first began piecing together its special

story when the doorbell rang one Sunday

afternoon and a rather reticent man asked

if it would be possible for him to have a

quick look around as he was visiting from

New Zealand and this was his old prep

school. Since then we have had numerous

such requests, an 'old boys' reunion and,

rather wonderfully, a holiday guest

who turned out to be the great, great

granddaughter of the man who built

the house and who has shared with us

family diaries and photographs.

Knapp House – or 'Kestrels', as the school

was known – was built as a hunting lodge

in East Anstey in the early 1900s by James

Norwood Stapledon, an industrialist,

who had made money putting coal and

water into ships going through the Suez

Canal. Sitting in a 25-acre estate with the

pre-Beeching railway running along the

bottom of its land, it was easy to get to,

and family, friends, luggage and even a

horse or two came by train. For each new

generation of Stapledon children it was

the place where special memories were

made. One of the earliest entries in the

diary of an 11-year-old Norah Stapledon

is her account of boarding the train to go

to East Anstey to see 'Knapp' being built.

Later her own son, Amorey, would write

about unforgettable family holidays with

his mother, aunt and cousins: picnics

on Exmoor, swimming in the Barle and

the most admired horse in the stables,

the hunter, Daybreak. He describes an

Exmoor with small roads and many gates

which had to be opened. "Almost always

there would be a small boy waiting at

each gate. He would open the gate and

get a penny in reward."

Amorey describes a house little changed

with its long, broad landing, woodpanelled

hall, attics and gardens for

"hiding games". In the old photographs

the house is instantly recognisable. In fact,

it is the gardens that have changed most,

with the small trees in the pictures now

giants, straight and tall as ships' masts,

and the magnificent rhododendrons that

so define this Exmoor garden appearing


back then as small shrubs. The walled

vegetable garden, so productive then, is

now a work in progress as I slowly reclaim

it from the grassy wild.

Knapp House was a family home until

the Second World War, when it was

requisitioned for a small boys' prep school

called Hillsbrow, the pupils being

evacuated from Redhill in Surrey to

escape the Blitz. A couple in a campervan

on holiday in Devon were among our

doorbell ringers not long ago. They'd

promised their neighbour they would try

to find out what had happened to his old

school and, after their visit, an email came

from Major Bill, describing how, at the

beginning of 1941, 30 little boys collected

their belongings and were put on a train

heading west. A pony and trap picked

up their luggage at East Anstey and they

walked in a crocodile to their new school.

This was the beginning of the house's life

as a school, in which purpose it continued

until the late 1960s, when it became a

residential home. Eventually, in the earlytwenty-first

century, Knapp became a

private home once again.

Following the war, in 1946, Knapp House

was handed back to the Stapledon family

and Richard Stapledon (Norah's brother),

with an Oxford Blue for athletics and

some limited teaching experience, decided

to put his inheritance to work and Kestrels

School, named after the birds nesting

in the Virginia creeper that covered the

south side of the house, was born.

It began with just 9 boys but this number

eventually grew to nearer 50. Most loved

it, a few loathed it, but even now, some

60 years later, its 'old boys' are unanimous

in recalling that it was very different, with

its black cat Satan and its charismatic

headmaster 'Staps'.

With a profound love of Exmoor, its

wildlife and its traditions, nurtured by his

parents during their family life at Knapp,

Richard Stapledon ran a school that

encouraged these passions amongst the

young pupils.

There were ponies in the stables ready

for a day's hunting with the Devon &

Somerset Staghounds for the princely sum

of seven shillings and sixpence. He had

himself first hunted with the Dulverton

Foxhounds at the age of eight. The boys'

dormitories took their names from the

Exmoor birds of prey – Buzzards, Kestrels,

Falcons, Sparrowhawks, Merlins, Eagles

Above, from top: Kestrels outside the school; the Box Brownie club (courtesy of John

Ponsonby); rugby team, 1956 (courtesy of Iain Morison).

Facing 96, top: Kestrels, 1947 (courtesy of John Ponsonby).

Page 96, insets: Norah Stapledon, 1920s; the drive to the house when it was built

in 1912 (courtesy of Damaris Albarron).


Past Times

Former pupils at their reunion in 2012.

and Peregrines – and the name labels are

still there on the cupboards in the attics.

The large school bell, taken from a

merchant ship, hung in the corner of

the dining-room and with eight rings

summoned the boys from bed at the

start of each day.

The main focus of Kestrels was preparing

the boys for Common Entrance, with

lessons in English, maths or Latin taken in

what is the now main sitting-room of the

house, the teacher standing in front of the

fireplace in the wood-panelled Arts and

Crafts alcove. Lessons were limited to the

mornings and after lunch there was a rest,

the afternoons being given over to games.

Not surprisingly, given Richard Stapledon's

athletic prowess, sport played a big part in

school life. Hurdles were carried up from

the livestock market near East Anstey

Station and cricket was played on the

main sports field opposite what is now

Blake's Coaches. The headmaster's

birthday in May was celebrated with

the cancellation of lessons and a 'Spivs

V Workers' cricket match followed by a

birthday cake with candles and a slice for

everyone. If it was too wet for games

the boys were sent on long runs,

accompanied by local farmer and Rugby

Blue David Pearce who reportedly only

had two speeds, 'fast' and 'very fast', and

thought nothing of reporting boys who

were running too slowly!

Termly fees were £66 and for an upfront

payment of £1,000 fees were fixed for five

years. A fee plan given to Sir Ian Lyle in

1954 still exists.

The school swimming pool was the Barle,

the boys being taken down in Richard

Stapledon's old car which had to be

pushed up the track on the way home.

They would enter the field gate at Five

Cross Ways, bumping down a steep

and very rough track to the river. After a

couple of hours of swimming, fishing and

dam-building, tea would be produced

from a large wicker laundry basket: jam

sandwiches and weak orange juice.

Behind the house in those days was a

small plantation where the boys played,

made camp and climbed the trees.

We have had to take many of these trees

down because of P. ramorum infection, or

larch disease, and have repeatedly had a

broken saw blade because of the dozens

of nails hammered into the trees all those

years ago by boys building dens.

So Kestrels sitting quietly on the edge

of Exmoor was a little school with a big

attitude. The boys are grown, but their

memories are fresh. In 2014, 16 of them

came together at Knapp House for a

reunion, with a special service in the little

village church of St Michael's that they

had walked to every Sunday in pairs

all those years ago. Andrew Lyle, who

appeared on Richard Stapledon's register

with a little drawing of a sugar cube with

arms and legs, read the lesson and Iain

Morison, whose register symbol was a

spark plug because of his love of engines,

played the organ.

It is hard to truly imagine Kestrels now.

Certainly all the photographs show

smiling boys – and the stories are of

impish japes – but there was certainly

punishment and it must have been

a hard school for the unsporting.

Ex-pupil Charles Proudfoot sums it up.

"What was it about Kestrels? I have been

intrigued for many years to try and put my

finger on it. It seems we were in the care

of an extraordinary bunch of eccentric

characters who allowed us a remarkable

degree of freedom in almost idyllic

surroundings.” Iain Morison, who has

written a book, Kestrels 1946-1968: The

Tale of an Iconic Devon Post War School,

writes, "It was a high-flying place,

punching well above its size."

Kestrels closed in 1968, Knapp House was

sold and became a residential home and

local people still mention visiting relatives

or working here in the 1970s and '80s.

Finally, stringent regulation forced it out

of business and after a sad period it was

rescued and turned back into a family

home with some of the additional

accommodation being converted into

holiday lets.

Mike and I now have the joy of living in

this wonderful house and sharing it with

the holiday guests who come to enjoy

Exmoor. A new generation of children

explore the gardens, writers and artists use

the 'classroom sitting-room' for their

retreats and its history gets told and

retold. Occasionally, if I listen hard

enough, I am sure I hear the tinkling of

a piano, the pouring of cocktails and the

enthusiastic shouts of happy boys getting

ready for cricket.

FIND OUT MORE

Kestrels 1946-1968: The Tale of an Iconic

Devon Post War School is available from

pmorison@uwclub.net priced at £12.

VISIT

www.knapphouselodges.co.uk


Three floors of great gift ideas

Enjoy delicious menus in our Bistro

Dedicated toy floor • Dog friendly • Riverside walks

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Enjoy everything that is wonderful about Exmoor.

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OPEN FRIDAY AND SATURDAY EVENINGS AND SEVEN DAYS A WEEK

Visit our online shop at www.notrunofthemill.com

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OR 01398 341170

Fremington Manor

Barnstaple EX31 2NX ☎ 01271 377990

Kenwith Castle

Bideford EX39 5BE ☎ 01237 470060

Within our portfolio of residential care and nursing homes across the south of England, you

will find two of our beautiful Care South Country House care homes,

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Spring

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Year round events

Weddings

Corporate hire

Restaurant

Gift shop & plant centre

Holidays

Visit us as Rosemoor bursts into a riot of colour

Great Torrington, Devon 01805 624067

For Tickets and promotions rhs.org.uk/rosemoor

Every visit helps support the charitable work of the RHS

RHS Registered Charity No. 222879/SC038262


WILD GARDENS

Orchids

WORDS by Peter Marren

PHOTOS by Andrew Hobbs, Andy Stuthridge,

Chris Gladman, Ian Salmon, Liz McDonnell,

Julia Amies-Green and Graham Lavender


If

there was a competition for

the most popular group of

wild flowers, my money would

be on the orchids. During the

past year alone there have been

two books devoted to finding the

50-odd species of British orchids. My own

book, Chasing the Ghost, also takes the

mysterious ghost orchid as its talisman, as a

symbol of unattainability (for it has flowered

only once in 30 years). When it comes to field

guides you can take your pick from at least

three, and orchids also feature prominently

in more general guides to wild flowers.

What makes orchids so special? Unlike those

you find in plant nurseries, most of which are

cultivated forms not found in the wild, British

orchids are homely and modest. To find some

of them you need sharp eyes, so closely do

they blend with their surroundings. All the

same, they have considerable allure. In no

other group of flowers do you find so many

species named after animals or insects – bee

orchid, lizard orchid, monkey orchid, spider

orchid, frog orchid (appropriately enough,

DNA has shown that the frog orchid belongs

among the marsh orchids). Several are named

after Homo sapiens: lady orchid seems to wear

a full-skirted, polka-dotted dress while the

homunculus of man orchid is a little dangling

figure wearing a big hat. Orchids are simply

adorable.

British orchids also display an intriguing range

of scents. Some forms of fragrant orchid have

a strong whiff of cloves. Musk orchid reminds

me of honey. The lizard orchid starts off with

a heavy scent like hyacinths but later smells of

billy-goats. The pure-white-flowered butterfly

orchids switch on their sweet perfume in the

evening to attract moths. The early purple orchid

is fragrant when fresh but the scent soon turns

sour and mature plants smell like tom-cats.

Scented blossoms have evolved to attract

insect pollinators, but orchids take this

adaptation to extremes. Many do not simply

attract flying insects in general but particular

kinds of insect. The greater butterfly orchid

hides its nectar – its gift to the pollinator –

inside a long spur that only the long tongues of

butterflies and moths can reach. Broad-leaved

Helleborine presents its nectar in a little cup,

to attract wasps, but it adds narcotics to the

mix. Apparently, drunken wasps make the best

pollinators. The twayblade rewards flies with a

trail of sugar, but when the insect reaches the

top, a sticky lump of yellow pollen explodes

onto its little head like a custard pie.

An orchid quartet, the bee, the fly and our

two spider orchids, take things a stage further

by mimicking their pollinators. The fly orchid's

amazing flower looks like a wasp with antennae,

a distinct head with 'eyes', and even a hint of

wings in its flash of blue. Moreover its scent,

which our noses can hardly detect, mimics the

pheromones of the female wasp. Its realism

certainly fools the male wasp, which attempts

to copulate with the flower and receives a

blob of pollen for its pains. In the game of

evolutionary intelligence the orchids win

hands down.

Three species of orchid manage to do without

leaves. The bird's-nest orchid is so named

because its roots look like a crow's nest, a mess

of twiggy rootlets. Its honey-brown spikes

bloom in the darkness of beech woods among

the fallen leaves where ordinary, light-demanding

plants cannot grow. It has the place to itself.

Botanists used to think that the bird's-nest

orchid behaves like a mushroom, feeding

on decaying matter. In fact, it feeds on fungi

trapped inside its roots. It's a fungus killer.

The ghost orchid is even more extreme in that

it hardly needs to flower at all. It seems able to

carry on indefinitely underground, a rootstock

quietly scoffing fungi, and producing a flower

only when it feels like it. And, unfortunately, in

Britain at least, it doesn't feel like it very often.

Funnily enough, 'orchid' is quite a recent word,

coined by the botanist John Lindley in 1845.

The older word for them was 'orchis', a name

that goes back to ancient times and means (of

course) 'testicle'. The analogy is with the tubers

of the early purple orchid and its relatives,

which are round and in pairs. Many of the

folk-names for orchids allude to these manly

'testicules'. They are what Shakespeare called

'grosser names': dog stones (or, as we would

say, 'the dog's bollocks'), cullions, fool's stones,

ballockwort. Another old name, 'satyrium',

alludes to that horny woodland deity, the

satyr, noted for his exaggerated male parts.

John Ruskin was so shocked by all this that he

proposed to rename orchids 'weatherworts'

(it didn't catch on). Perhaps, knowing this, you

would not be surprised to learn that, dried and

reduced to powder, orchid tubers are regarded

as an aphrodisiac. It's an idea that dates back

to the Middle Ages: that if a plant resembles

something, then it probably has properties

to match.

Left, from top: Autumn lady's-tresses (Liz McDonnell); this is the common spotted orchid, which,

in fact, is not all that common on Exmoor! (Andy Stuthridge); bird's-nest orchid is a strange plant

which has no chlorophyll (Chris Gladman); early purple orchid (Andy Stuthridge).


Some orchids are quite common: marsh

orchids can colour the ground, especially, and

interestingly, on industrial spoil heaps. Others

are a challenge to find. The diminutive bog

orchid is hard to spot even when someone

points it out for you. Some have become so

rare that you can easily count the number of

remaining plants. The gorgeous lady's slipper

(which seems far too exotic to be a genuine

wild flower, though it is) is down to just one

or two individuals. Rare orchids are often

protected with netting or individual wire cages.

Unfortunately, their fans easily outnumber

the plants, and trampling can damage their

prospects almost as much as picking.

Which species occur on Exmoor? Generally

speaking, orchids prefer lime-rich soils, and so

the more acidic geology of Exmoor is against

them. The one which you see everywhere

in boggy places around midsummer is the

heath spotted orchid. As the name suggests,

it has spotted leaves, and pale lilac flowers

with broad lips, all growing in a tight bunch.

Around late August you may come across a

much smaller orchid, the autumn lady's-tresses,

whose tiny white flowers grow in a narrow,

steeple-like spiral. You find it in short grass,

especially along the coast and, if you are

very lucky, on lawns.

Exmoor's most special species is the lesser

twayblade. The heather-covered parts of the

moor are now the only site for this upland

plant in southern England. It is hard to find

since it usually grows in damp moss under

heather, and you may need to part the clumps

to find it. When you do, you see a spindly little

plant with a neat pair of round leaves and a

spike of tiny pink and yellow flowers. Once you

spot one and get your eye in, you often find

many more for, like many orchids, the lesser

twayblade is a gregarious plant which grows

in circumscribed colonies.

With so many things going for them – funny

flowers, strange lives, the lure of a botanical

treasure-hunt – orchids make the perfect

introduction to wild flowers. It was with the

orchids that I started out in my teens, trying to

see as many species as I could. The search took

me on bus and train journeys to the wilder

parts of Britain and so it also became my

introduction to the natural beauty of our

mountains and moors, sand dunes and downs,

islands and forests… Orchids can be the start

of something big.

Page 101: Early purple orchid (Andy Stuthridge).

Four pairs, from top: Heath spotted orchids ( Julia Amies-Green); lesser twayblade, the rarest Exmoor orchid, hard to find and even

harder to photograph! (Chris Gladman); the larger and much commoner twayblade – it can grow in woodland or out in grassy places

and comes out in the late spring (Ian Salmon and Chris Gladman); south marsh orchid (Graham Lavender and Andrew Hobbs).


CHILDREN'S PICTURE QUIZ

Uncle Willow

& Ginger Tigger

in Snowdrop Valley

ILLUSTRATION by Endymion Beer

Can you answer these questions:

1. Ginger-Tigger is leaning

on a sign. What does it say?

2. A gnome is hitching a ride

to the river on Willow's back.

What colour are her boots?

3. The fungi featured in the picture

are scarlet elf cups. How many elves in red

jackets are there? What are they doing?

Snowdrop Valley is open 2 February to 3 March.

See page 107.


FOR ALL WHO LOVE

EXMOOR, THE QUANTOCKS

& NORTH DEVON

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Over the hills and come to stay

with North Devon Farm Holidays!

www.north-devon-farm-holidays.co.uk

A N S T E Y M I L L S C O T TA G E S

Families, Walkers & Pets

Let our two cottages

charm you, the whirlpool

or woodburner warm

you; find comfort, peace

and quiet in this

beautiful place.

Anstey Mills Cottages, East Liscombe Farm,

Dulverton, TA22 9RZ T: 01398 341329

E: ansteymills@yahoo.com

www.ansteymillscottagedevon.co.uk

HIGHER BIDDACOTT FARM

A warm 4* welcome and

delicious home-cooking

await you at our 12th

century farmhouse B&B

on a traditional Devon

farm worked sustainably

with Shire horses.

Higher Biddacott Farm, Chittlehampton,

Umberleigh, Devon EX37 9PY

T. 01769540222 E. waterers@heavy-horses.net

www.heavy-horses.net

HUXTABLE FARM B&B

Escape to this beautiful,

award winning, medieval

longhouse, with quality

en-suite bedrooms

(Wi-Fi), log fires, beams,

panoramic views, walks &

wildlife on its doorstep.

Huxtable Farm B&B, West Buckland, Barnstaple,

Devon EX32 0SR

T. 01598 760254 E. jackie@huxtablefarm.co.uk

www.huxtablefarm.co.uk

Photo by Andrew Wheatley

NEW MILL FARM

4* quality cottages in

the peace and

tranquillity of the

picturesque Exmoor

National Park.

Horse riding from our

own A.B.R.S. stables.

New Mill Farm, Barbrook, Lynton EX35 6JR

T. 01598 753341 E. susan.bingham@virgin.net

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P I C K W E L L B A RTO N

Peaceful, stunning

location. Superb

cottages on the North

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access through our fields

to Woolacombe beach.

“fantastic location!”

Pickwell Barton, Georgeham, Braunton, EX331LA

T. 01271 890994 E. holidays@pickwellbarton.co.uk

www.pickwellbarton.co.uk

RED LINHAY SELF CATERING

Secluded cottage on

Exmoor, with woodburner

and free logs. Spectacular

views, close to beaches.

Abundant wildlife.

Watch from the hide or

walk the farm trail.

Hollacombe Farm, Blackmoor Gate, Kentisbury,

Barnstaple. EX31 4NR

T. 01598 763286 E. martin.ryall@btinternet.com

www.hollacombefarm.co.uk

Pop in for low everyday prices,

great special offers and

friendly local service.

01398 331403

39 Brook Street, Bampton EX16 9LU

#nationaltrust

Looking for your next adventure?

Life is one long adventure and we'd love to

join in with your next one. Whether you

want to put years of skills and experience

towards our cause or just want to try

something brand new, we'll have a role to

suit you.

Find out more about the current volunteer

roles we have on offer.

Call 01271 850296 for details

nationaltrust.org.uk/arlington-court

© National Trust 2018. The National Trust is an independent

registered charity, number 205846. Photography © National Trust

Images\Chris Lacey.


Ex Mag Ad 2019

21 December 2018 11:19:45

Photo by Jane A. Mares

Spring Diary 2019

COMPILED by Katy Charge

Our diary gives a small sample of the

type of events taking place locally.

See page 111 for some useful websites

and keep an eye on our Facebook page

(www.facebook.com/exmoormagazine).

ENPA's Exmoor Visitor also contains

listings.

The dates here are submitted to us and

as far as we are aware the information

is correct at the time of going to press.

Contact details are included so that you

can check events nearer the time.

Please email your summer dates to us

by 15 April 2018 (see page 6 for

details). We are always over-subscribed

but will do our best to fit you in!

To find out about advertising your

commercial event here call 01392

201227 (prices start at £35).

2nd and 4th Saturdays of Every Month

OPEN NIGHTS/CONCERTS

RESPECTIVELY

8pm. Shammick Acoustic, Pack o' Cards,

High Street, Combe Martin. T: 01271

882366, W: www.shammickacoustic.org.uk.

Every Friday

MINEHEAD COUNTRY MARKET

9-11am. Traditional fare, indoors in the

Quaker Meeting House on Bancks Street.

Breads, cakes, honey, jams, chutneys,

savouries, main dishes, plants, seasonal

veg., handcrafted items. Free entry.

Minehead TA24 5DJ. T: 01643 705291.

February

Saturday 2 February-Sunday 3 March

SNOWDROP VALLEY

A privately owned remote valley in a

hidden part of Exmoor close to Wheddon

Cross. The Badgworthy Land Company

kindly allows access to the valley while

the beautiful carpet of snowdrops is in

bloom. Short, medium and long walks

(take sturdy footwear; can be muddy).

Park & ride Saturday 9 February-Sunday

24 February. Find out more nearer the

time at W: www.wheddoncross.org.uk/

snowdropvalley.htm. T: 01398 323841

(ENP Visitor Centre, Dulverton).

Thursdays 14 February, 14 March,

11 April, 9 May

WATERCOLOUR PAINTING WITH

CHRIS HOWE

2-4pm. Learn the art of watercolour

painting with talented local artist Chris

Howe. Beginners welcome; sessions for

all levels of experience. All materials

included. Booking essential, £15. Lynmouth

National Park Centre. T: 01598 752509.

Saturday 16 February

BIRDS, BOGS AND BARROWS:

A WALK AT HANGLEY CLEAVE

2-6pm. See page 57 for details.


VALENTINE'S EVENING & SUPPER

7.30-10.30pm. Supper with the Dark

Town Strutters. Paying bar. Tickets from

Porlock Spar, Allerford Post Office &

Summerland Road pet shop in Minehead.

Allerford and Selworthy Community Hall.

Booking essential, £10pp. T: 07980 595

989, W: www.allerfordandselworthyhall.

co.uk/events.html.

Sunday 17 February

6TH CASTLE HILL CORKER

10am. Approx. 6 miles of multi-terrain

running around the Castle Hill Estate.

Highlights will be the Tunnel of Doom,

the Troll Bridge, Creepy Cliff and nearly

1,000ft of climbing! £14 unattached

runners; £12 for ALL members of UKA

affiliated clubs; £2 extra on the day.

W: www.southmoltonstrugglers.co.uk/

castle-hill-corker.

Sunday 17 February; Saturdays 16

March & 20 April

North Hill Guided Walk

10.30am-12pm. Join a walk leader on

a tour of North Hill, taking in glorious

scenery and historical sites. Approx.

3 miles, moderate inclines, suitable

footwear essential. Meet at the

Marshalling Yard car park on North Hill.

Booking essential. Free; donations to

CareMoor welcome. T: 01598 752509.

Monday 18 February

RUINS IN THE WOODS: A WALK

Meet 9.45am at Chargot Wood car park

(SS975355). A 1-hour stroll to Langham

Engine House, then a 2-hour walk down

the steep miners' track to see Bearland

Flue and other iron-mining features.

Possible visit to Burrow Farm Engine

House or Kennisham Hill. W: www.

westsomersetmineralrailway.org.uk.

Mondays 18 February, 18 March, 15 April

SIMONSBATH SAWMILL OPEN DAY

10am-4pm. No need to book, advisable

to ring (10am-4pm). Look around the

historic water-powered sawmill and

estate workshops. Parking and toilets

Ashcombe car park, Simonsbath. Donations

welcome. T: 01643 831202 (on the day),

W: www.simonsbathsawmill.org.uk.

Thursday 21 February

ACTIVITY AFTERNOON AT EXMOOR

PONY CENTRE

12-3pm. Have fun meeting the ponies.

Booking not required, free entry. Small

charges for individual activities, which

incl. pony rides (min. age for riding 4yrs;

12-stone weight limit), pony grooming,

crafts and games, refreshments. W: www.

moorlandmousietrust.org.uk/events.php.


SHAMMICK ACOUSTIC CONCERT:

KIMBER'S MEN

8pm. Internationally renowned shanty

crew, previously sell-out nights! See first

diary entry on this page for contact details.

Exmoor Food & Crafts

Local products made by local people

4 The Avenue, Minehead

Tel: 01643 706030

www.exmoorfoodandcrafts.co.uk

www.facebook.com/ExmoorFoodandCrafts/

National Centre for Folk Arts

“An essential part of the

UK folk scene”

Paul Sartin, Faustus

www.halswaymanor.org.uk

01984 618274 | www.halswaymanor.org.uk


Diary

March

Wednesday 6 March

ILLUSTRATED TALK: CLIMATE CHANGE

AND TREES

7.30pm. A talk by Robin Offer, ENP

Conservation Advisor, about a survey of

tree bud burst and how climate change

might impact Exmoor's trees. Minehead

Methodist Church Hall, The Avenue,

Minehead. W: www.enhs.org.uk/

programme.htm.

Thursday 7 March

A BLACKSMITH'S LIFE ON EXMOOR:

ILLUSTRATED TALK

7.30pm. The Dulverton Group Exmoor

Society's AGM at 7pm (non-members

welcome), followed by a talk and slide

show about the life and work of

local Master Blacksmith James Horrobin

FWCB. DGES members free, nonmembers

£3. Riverside Youth Centre,

Kemps Way, Dulverton. T: 01398 323954.

Thursdays 7 March, 4 April, 2 May

SEA GLASS & GEMSTONE JEWELLERY

2-4pm. Jewellery making with Debbie.

Workshop for beginners and more

advanced crafters. Make a unique piece

of jewellery for yourself, or as a gift.

Booking essential, £15pp. Lynmouth

National Park Centre. T: 01598 752509.

Friday 8 March

EXPLORE EAST QUANTOXHEAD AND

THE COAST

10am-2pm. A moderate 9-mile walk with

knowledgeable volunteer rangers, Philip

and George. Bring a packed lunch. Sturdy

and waterproof clothing and footwear

required. Dogs on leads welcome. East

Quantoxhead car park (Duck Pond), East

Quantoxhead, TA5 1EJ. T: 01823 451884,

W: www.quantockhills.com/events.

Saturday 9 March

QUIZ NIGHT

7-10pm. Friendly, fun quiz. Max. 4 per team.

£2pp. Allerford and Selworthy Community

Hall. W: www.allerfordandselworthyhall.

co.uk/events.html, T: 07980 595989.

Tuesday 12 March

DISCOVER EXMOOR'S LICHENS

10am-2pm. Discover how to identify

some of the lichens common in Exmoor's

woodlands. Aimed at beginners.

Booking essential, £5. Malmsmead car

park (SS792478) EX35 6NU. T: (Jackie

Kiberd) 07970 099 127, W: events.

constantcontact.com/register/event?llr=vj

zs4adab&oeidk=a07efvu18d2ee2ca8c4.

Saturday 16 March

SPRING SHOW

2-4.30pm. Seasonal floral classes.

Decorative, cookery, home-made drink

classes. Classes for children. Artwork

display of St Dubricius School children.

Plant sales, book stall, raffle, home-made

refreshments. Entry £1 (members of the

Society and children free). Porlock Village

Hall TA24 8QD, T: 01643 863074,

W: www.porlockhortisoc.weebly.com.

Sunday 17 March

LOCALS DAY ON LYNTON

& BARNSTAPLE RAILWAY

10.45am-4pm. Residents in EX and TA

postcodes travel free. Proof of residency

required. Woody Bay Station EX31 4RA.

T: 01598 763487, W: www.lynton-rail.

co.uk/page/Special-events.

Saturday 23 March


GRANNY'S ATTIC

8pm. Talented young trio of traditional

musicians and singers. Pack o' Cards,

High Street, Combe Martin. T: 01271

882366, W: www.shammickacoustic.org.uk.

Sunday 24 March

RALEGH'S CROSS SHORT WALK

9.45am-1.45pm. Explore the old

Brendon village, the nineteenth-century

iron mines, the Winding House and the

remains of the mineral railway in the

Brendon Hills. It includes part of the

Incline, steep, spectacular, but optional.

Booking essential, donations welcome.

Meet at Ralegh's Cross Inn TA23 0LN.

T: 01398 323841,

W: westsomersetmineralrailway.org.uk.

Wednesday 27 March

WOODLAND WALK AND RAPID

WOODLAND ASSESSMENT AT

HORNER WOODS

9.45am-1.pm. Learn about Exmoor's

Atlantic woodland habitat and

conservation. Carry out a Rapid

Woodland Assessment (RWA) (you can

later do RWAs independently if you

volunteer as part of Plantlife's Building

Resilience in South West Woodlands

project). Free, booking essential. Horner

Woods car park TA24 8HY. T: 07889

733232, W: www.plantlife.org.uk/uk/

discover-wild-plants-nature/events/

atlantic-woodland-walk-and-rapidwoodland-assessment-training-hornerwoods-e.

Saturday 30 March

COFFEE, CAKE AND CLEAN-UP

10am-1pm. Porlock community annual

pre-season clean-up of the Marsh and

Shingle Ridge of Porlock Bay. All welcome;

join for coffee and cake by the car park

before taking part in the clean-up. Litter

pickers, gloves and bags provided. Free.

Bossington car park TA24 8HF. T: 01643

862452, W: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/

bossington.

Sunday 31 March

MOTHER'S DAY WITH LYNTON

& BARNSTAPLE RAILWAY

10.45am-5pm. Mums travel FREE and

get to drive a diesel! Free ticket for

accompanied mums; standard fares for

everyone else. Woody Bay Station.



Sunday 31 March

MOTHER'S DAY AT ARLINGTON COURT

12-3pm. Treat Mum to a high tea at

Arlington Court (booking essential)!

Family crafting activities (no need to

book). Adults £9.95, children £6.

Arlington Court EX31 4LP. T: 01271

851111, W: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/

arlington-court-and-the-national-trustcarriage-museum/whats-on.


April

Monday 1-Friday 12 April

EASTER BOOK BONANZA

From 10.30am. Many books 'as new', from

50p. In aid of Dulverton Heritage Centre

and Model Railway Project. Phone John,

T: 01398 323787, to arrange collection

of unwanted books or bring them with

you. Free entry. Dulverton Heritage

Centre. T: 07969 243 887, W: www.

dulvertonheritagecentre.org.uk/events.html.

Tuesday 2 April-Sunday 6 May

MINEHEAD LITERARY FESTIVAL

ART EXHIBITION

Art exhibition at the Regal Theatre and

Toucan Wholefoods, Minehead, focused

on the importance of place, the theme of

Minehead Literary Festival (see page 95).

Works by local artists Jo Minoprio,

Leo Davey and Pauline Clyde.

Free entry. T: 01643 831343,

W: www.mineheadliteraryfestival.org.

Tuesdays 2 & 23 April & 7 May;

Wednesdays 10 April & 1 May

A TOWN TOUR OF DULVERTON

3pm. A guided walk exploring the

history of Dulverton. Discover secret

places and hear tales from local guides.

£3pp. Dulverton Heritage Centre.

W: www.dulvertonheritagecentre.org.uk/

events.html, T: 07969 243 887.


BAT'S CASTLE GUIDED WALK

11am-2pm

See hidden parts of Dunster and some

wonderful scenery/views. Learn about the

rich history of the area. Approx. 4-mile

walk with some steep inclines, suitable

footwear and water essential. Free;

donations to CareMoor welcome. Start

from National Park Centre Dunster.

T: 01643 821835.

Fridays 5 April & 3 May

DISCOVER PORLOCK MARSH WALK

10.30am-12.30pm. Join local guide

on a walk to discover Porlock Marsh, its

wildlife, history and scenery. Please wear

suitable footwear. Free, booking essential.

Porlock Visitor Centre. T: 01598 752509.

Saturday 6-Thursday 18 April

WILD ABOUT SPRING TRAIL

10.30am-4pm. Discover the interesting

animals that live at Arlington. Collect all

the stamps and unscramble the word to

claim a prize. £1.50pp. Arlington Court.

W: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/arlingtoncourt-and-the-national-trust-carriagemuseum/whats-on.

T: 01271 850296.

Saturday 6-Sunday 21 April

DISCOVER NATIONAL PARKS FORTNIGHT

Annual family festival championing

all that is unique and special about

National Parks. Treasure trails, seaside

safaris, guided forest walks, local food and

drinks, many diverse events are on offer.

W: www.awarenessdays.com/awarenessdays-calendar/discover-national-parksfortnight-2019.

Sunday 7-Wednesday 10; Sunday

14-Wednesday 17; Sunday 21-Tuesday

23 April

HAVE-A-GO ARCHERY

11am-4pm. £4 for 8 arrows, normal

admission applies. Minimum age: 5 for

archery, 8 for pistol shooting; participants

must be 1.16m tall to use the smallest

bow. Booking essential. Dunster Castle.

T: 01643 821314, W: www.nationaltrust.

org.uk/dunster-castle/whats-on.

Monday 8 April & Wednesday 17 April

COMBE MARTIN SEASHORE SAFARI

8 April 2-4pm; 17 April 10.30am-

12.30pm. Gentle seashore safari, exploring

the beach rock pools for wildlife.

Free rock-pool guide for each family,

microscope also available in the museum.

Children £2, accompanying adults free.

Combe Martin Museum.

T: 01271 889031,

W: www.combemartinmuseum.co.uk.

Wednesdays 10 & 24 April; 8 May

HIDDEN DUNSTER GUIDED WALK

11am-12.30pm. Join a walk leader on

a stroll around Dunster. See sites of

historical interest and hidden parts of the

village. Free; donations to CareMoor

welcome. Booking essential. National

Park Centre Dunster. T: 01643 821835.

Sunday 14 April

ACTIVITY DAY AT EXMOOR PONY

CENTRE

11am-3pm. In addition to the usual

activities (see 21 Feb. entry) there is an

Easter Quiz Trail for all the family. Answer

all the questions and claim a chocolate

reward. W: www.moorlandmousietrust.

org.uk/events.php.

Monday 15 April

WEST EXMOOR WEBFOOT WALK

9.30am-4.30pm. Moorland walk with

some historical interest. The west side

of Exmoor is consistently wet underfoot;

route may change, depending on

conditions on the day. Donations

welcome. Goat Hill Bridge, SS723405. For

details and other walks in April, T: 01398

323335, W: www.exmoorsociety.com.

Diary

Monday 15 April & Wednesday 1 May

LYNMOUTH BOAT TRIP

15 April 2.30-4pm; 1 May 3.45-5.15pm.

Look for rare nesting birds along the

coastline west of Lynmouth. Commentary

from an ENP Ranger. £20pp. Lynmouth

Harbour. Booking essential via National

Park Centre, Lynmouth, T: 01598 752509.

Wednesday 17 April

HADDON HILL BIG ADVENTURE

10am-4pm. Family games/activities. Wear

outdoor clothing and suitable footwear.

Booking essential. Free; donations to

CareMoor welcome. Haddon Hill car

park. T: 01398 323841, W: www.exmoornationalpark.gov.uk/enjoying/events/

all-events/haddon-hill-big-adventure.

Thursday 18 & Wednesday 24 April

LYNMOUTH HISTORY & FLOOD WALK

1-2.30pm. Join a Heritage Walk Leader

for a stroll through Lynmouth; learn

about its history and the effect of the

1952 flood. A slow-paced stroll, with

frequent stops. Free; donations to

CareMoor welcome. Lynmouth National

Park Centre. T: 01598 752509.

Friday 19 April

BEAUTIFUL BOSSINGTON GUIDED WALK

10.30am-12.30pm. Walk along the coast

towards Hurlstone and back through

Holm Oak woodland. Circular walk,

approx. 2.5 miles. Wear suitable footwear.

Free; donations to CareMoor welcome.

Booking essential. T: 01598 752509.

Tuesday 23 April

HIDDEN PORLOCK GUIDED WALK

10.15am-12.15pm. A walk around

Porlock village to visit sites of historical

interest and hidden parts of the village's

past. Free; donations welcome. Booking

essential. Visitor Centre. T: 01643 863150.

Saturday 27 April

MINEHEAD LITERARY FESTIVAL

See page 95 for details.

Saturday 27 April


JIM CAUSLEY

8pm. With a voice as rich as clotted

cream! See first diary entry for details.

Sunday 28 April

MINERAL LINE BUS TRIP

10am-3pm. Minibus to the route of

the Mineral Line. Easy walking. Bring a

packed lunch. Please book by Thurs.

18 April. Bus fare £14. Booking essential.

Meet Watchet Railway Station Bus Stop

TA23 0AU. T: 01398 323841 (ENPA), W:

www.westsomersetmineralrailway.org.uk.


LORNA DOONE 150TH ANNIVERSARY

The following is a selection of the events (confirmed at the time of going to print)

which are running this year as part of the anniversary of Lorna Doone.

April-October

LARGE EXHIBITION

Dulverton Heritage Centre. Visit www.

dulvertonheritagecentre.org.uk soon!


LORNA DOONE SAFARI

2-4.30pm. Pass through beautiful Doone

country, visit St Mary's Church in Oare,

Badgworthy Water and Robber's Bridge.

Enjoy the fascinating commentary which

brings the book to life. Booking essential,

£25pp. (Groups on other dates possible).

Departs Porlock Visitor Centre. T: 01643

863150, W: www.porlock.co.uk/events.

May-September

EXHIBITION

With Lorna mannequin and photos of

re-enactments held in Porlock Rec. 50

years ago. Dovery Museum, Porlock.

W: www.doverymanormuseum.org.uk.

Saturday 4, Tuesday 28 & Thursday

30 May; Monday 3 & Tuesday 18 June;

Sunday 14 & Saturday 20 July;

7, 10, 13, 21 & 30 August

LORNA DOONE WALK

10.30am, Malmsmead gift shop. £12pp,

children 10-15yrs £8. With Wild About

Exmoor. T: 01643 831759 or visit

www.wildaboutexmoor.com.

Saturday 11 & Sunday 12 May;

Saturday 6 & Sunday 7 July

PAINTING THE LANDSCAPE OF

LORNA DOONE

10am-4pm, Winsford Community Hall,

with tutor Matthew Davison.

Course ID: C3530299. Fee £74.

W: www.wea.org.uk/find-course.

Saturday 18 May

LITERATURE DAY SCHOOL – LORNA

DOONE

10am-4pm, Exford Memorial Hall,

with tutor Greta Depledge.

Course ID: C3530298. Fee: £35.

W: www.wea.org.uk/find-course.

Friday 24 May

WALK: DOONE COUNTRY – HEROES,

HEROINES, HUNTER-GATHERERS

& HERMITS

10.30am-4.30pm. A 4-mile walk with Rob

Wilson-North over rough moorland to

Badgworthy in the footsteps of author

R.D. Blackmore. Also on the trails of

hermits and hunter-gatherers. Dogs on

leads. Bring a packed lunch/refreshments.

Meet Brendon Two Gates, near

Simonsbath, SS765433.

Thursday 6 June & Friday 2 August

THE LORNA DOONE EXPERIENCE

Meet 10am, Malmsmead gift shop.

Booking essential. A full day out incl.

lunch. Numbers limited to 8 guests.

With Wild About Exmoor. Booking

through Airbnb experiences.

Saturday 22 June

Literature Day School – LORNA DOONE

10am-4pm, Heathcote Community

Centre, Tiverton, with tutor Greta

Depledge. Course ID: C3530298. Fee:

£35. W: www.wea.org.uk/find-course.

Saturday 29 & Sunday 30 June

DULVERTON SUMMER FESTIVAL

A weekend of Lorna Doone celebrations

with re-enactment of scenes from the

novel by Taunton Garrison around the

town. For more information see page 8.

Tuesday 20-Saturday 31 August

PLEASURE DOME THEATRE COMPANY:

LORNA DOONE AT VALLEY OF ROCKS

W: www.pleasuredometheatrecompany.

com.

Saturday 12 October

LORNA DOONE-INSPIRED CONCERT

All Saints' Church, Dulverton.

W: www.twomoorsfestival.co.uk.

Tuesday 29 October-Friday 1 November

3-DAY THEMED WALKING HOLIDAY

Lorna Doone walks and talks,

Simonsbath House Hotel,

W: www.simonsbathhouse.co.uk.

May

Wednesday 1 May-Saturday

28 September

DOVERY MANOR MUSEUM: OPENING

TIMES 2019

Monday to Friday, 10am-5pm; Saturday

10.30am-4.30pm; Sunday closed. Free

entry. Porlock, TA24 8QB. E: enquiries@

doverymanormuseum.org.uk,

W: www.doverymanormuseum.org.uk.

Saturday 4 May

COFFEE MORNING AND PLANT STALL

10am-12.30pm. Minehead and District

Gardeners Association coffee morning

and plant stall, plus bric-à-brac and

books. Proceeds to a local charity.

Free entry. Minehead Methodist Church,

The Avenue, Minehead TA24 5AY.

T: 01643 706558,

W: mineheadgardenclub.btck.co.uk.

Saturday 4-Sunday 5 May

ARMADA ALERT WITH THE TAUNTON

GARRISON

10am-4.30pm. Join the Taunton Garrison

for rolling skirmishes, weapons

displays and a living history camp.

Normal admission. Dunster Castle.

T: 01643821314, W: www.nationaltrust.

org.uk/dunster-castle/whats-on.

Sunday 5 May

BIG CREAM TEA

1pm-4pm. Delicious cream teas and

home-made cakes. Free entry, charge

for teas. Allerford and Selworthy

Community Hall. T: 07980 595 989,

W: www.allerfordandselworthyhall.co.uk/

events.html.

Monday 6 May-Friday 21 June

SIMONSBATH FESTIVAL

Starting with the colourful May Day

celebration on the green in Exford, the

main venue for many concerts and

talks is St Luke's Church in Simonsbath.

Torfaen Welsh Choir, folk, opera, gypsy

swing; art, poetry, talks, history, guided

walks in conjunction with the Exmoor

Society across Exmoor.

W: www.simonsbathfestival.org.uk.

SIMONSBATH HOUSE HOTEL

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

Valentine’s Day Mascara Murder Mystery

9t10th February, 7pm

Valentine’s Escape - 14th - 16th February

Mother’s Day Special - 31st March

Explore Exmoor Yoga and Walking weekend

Friday 5th to Monday 8th April

Charter of the Forest 800 year Anniversary Talk

13th April, 6 - 10.30pm

Alpha Painting Workshops - 5th - 17th May

www.simonsbathhouse.co.uk • T: 01643 831259

E: enquiries@simonsbathhousehotel.co.uk

WITHYPOOL TEAROOM

• Freshly made cakes,

light lunches, soups,

FREE FROM options

available

• Serving local ales,

ciders and wine

• Open daily

Spring till Winter

• We now accept all

major credit and

debit cards.

Tel: 01643 831279 • www.withypoolexmoor.co.uk

Tuesday 7 May

DISCOVER EXMOOR'S WOODLAND

FERNS

10am-1pm. A walk at Tarr Steps to learn

about ferns and how to identify them.

Aimed at beginners. Booking essential,

£5. Tarr Steps pay and display car park

SS872323. T: 07970 099 127, W: events.

constantcontact.com/register/event?llr=vj

zs4adab&oeidk=a07efvubn7578cc205f.


Saturday 11 May

MUSICAL EVENING WITH THE

RIVERTONES

7-11pm. An evening of musical

entertainment with The Rivertones, male

acapella harmony chorus. Licenced bar,

2-course meal. Booking essential, £15pp,

tables of up to 8 persons. Carhampton

Recreation Centre TA24 6NQ. T: 01643

822194, W: www.carhamptonrec.org.uk.


GRAND NATIONAL ARCHERY SOCIETY

INSTRUCTOR TRAINING COURSE

9am-5pm. Upon successful completion

of the course, candidates will receive a

certificate and become an Archery GB

qualified instructor. Booking essential,

price tbc. Simonsbath House Outdoor

Centre TA24 7SH. T: 01643 831382,

W: www.shoc.info.


CHARCOAL MAKING EXPERIENCE

Sat. 9.30am-Sun.10am. Entertaining,

educational and fully-catered course.

Optional evening around the campfire

and camp overnight, with a full English

breakfast. Booking essential, £100 for the

day / £130 overnight. Bulworthy Project,

Hensons Wood, Rackenford, Devon

EX16 8DL. T: 07594 569 441,

W: www.bulworthy.uk/charcoalcourse.


SPRING GALA

10am-5pm. Celebrate times past, real

ales, marquee attractions. All resident

locos in steam. Great War veteran AXE's

last big thing. Prices on website/phone

for details. Woody Bay Station EX31 4RA.




COWBRIDGE SAWMILL OPEN DAYS AS

PART OF NATIONAL MILLS WEEKEND

11am-4.30pm. Guided tours and rural

craft displays. Refreshments. Free entry,

donations welcome. Cowbridge

Sawmill, Timberscombe TA24 7TD.

T: 01643 841803,

W: www.cowbridgesawmill.org.

Saturday 11 May

CONCERT: BRAHMS

7.30pm. German Requiem, Song of

Destiny & Lieder sung by Bridgwater

Choral Society at St Mary's Church,

Bridgwater. The Society has been at the

heart of Bridgwater's cultural life since it

was founded in 1949. £12 on the door

(£10 for Friends), accompanied U16s

free, or via W: www.bridgwaterchoral.org.

Find out more...

ENPA

www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk

(a very useful diary for events

across the area)

Tel. 01398 323665

Twitter. @ExmoorNP

fb. Exmoor National Park

EXMOOR SOCIETY

www.exmoorsociety.com

Tel. 01398 323335

E. info@exmoorsociety.com

EQUINE

www.exmoorponycentre.org.uk

www.exmoorponysociety.org.uk

FOOD & DRINK

www.visit-exmoor.co.uk/eat-exmoor

and www.visit-exmoor.co.uk/types/

shopping/map

GENERAL WEBSITES

www.enhs.org.uk

www.everythingexmoor.org.uk

www.rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor

www.quantockhills.com

www.visit-exmoor.co.uk

NATIONAL TRUST

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/days-out/

regionsouthwest/south-west

STAGE & SCREEN

barnstaple.scottcinemas.co.uk

www.bidefordcinema.org.uk

lyntoncinema.co.uk/lynton/now

www.merlincinemas.co.uk

www.regalfilmsociety.org

www.shammickacoustic.org.uk

www.theploughartscentre.org.uk

regaltheatre.co.uk

tivertontheatre.com

LOCAL RADIO

www.tivertoncommunityradio.co.uk

10radio.org

VILLAGE LIFE

If you have a community website which

is not here please get in touch.

www.appledore.org

www.bampton.org.uk

www.bishopslydeard.org.uk

www.aboutbraunton.com

www.bromptonregis.com

www.visitcombemartin.com

www.dulvertontowncouncil.co.uk

www.visitdunster.co.uk

hawkridgeexmoor.co.uk

www.visitilfracombe.co.uk/what-is-on

www.kingsnympton.org.uk

www.visitlyntonandlynmouth.com

www.mineheadbay.co.uk

www.mineheadtowncouncil.co.uk

www.nettlecombewestsomerset.co.uk

www.northmoltonvillage.co.uk

www.porlock.co.uk

www.doverymanormuseum.org.uk

www.quantockonline.co.uk

friendsofquantock.com

www.visitsouthmolton.co.uk

www.timberscombevillage.com

www.lovewatchet.co.uk

www.wheddoncross.org.uk

www.winsfordexmoor.org.uk

www.wiveliscombe.com

woottoncourtenayvillage.co.uk

VISUAL ARTS

www.containsart.co.uk

www.crafts.org.uk (Devon Guild)

www.creativesomerset.com

www.devonartistnetwork.co.uk

ndarttrek.com

somersetartworks.org.uk

www.somersetguild.co.uk

If you know of a regularly updated, accurate site which you would like to suggest

we include here, please email the editor (see page 6). Priority will be given to

non-commercial sites. To advertise call 01392 201227. Diary adverts cost from £35.

TOBY'S GARDEN FESTIVAL

at Powderham Castle, nr Exeter

3 & 4 May 2019

With BBC gardeners - Toby Buckland,

Joe Swift and Frances Tophill

Specialist plant nurseries,

artisan food and drink, West Country craft

Advance tickets £10 online from

www.tobygardenfest.co.uk

Photo by Liz Elmont


Phil Hammond has always

loved dogs and, when

he took a job with Dogs

Trust Ilfracombe, it was the

perfect position. After enjoying

volunteering at a small rescue

centre during his nine-to-five

office job, Phil quickly learned

the daily grind behind a desk

wasn't for him so he applied

for a job as a Canine Carer at

Dogs Trust Ilfracombe where

he's now been working for

the past two years. After

developing a love for dog

training and behaviour, he

is now part of the Centre's

Training and Behaviour team

and helps to look after and

rehome around 400 dogs

a year.

Phil grew up around dogs

and owns two pugs. He said,

"I grew up with a Border collie

named Duke, and here began

my love affair with dogs.

When I started to think about

what I really wanted to do as

a career, I just knew I had to

work with them in some way."

Phil is involved in developing

training plans for the centre's

dogs, as well as assessing all of

the dogs that come through

the doors, to help them

find the right homes. "I'm

passionate about getting dogs

ready for life in a home, or

supporting them to overcome

behavioural challenges that

may be preventing them

from finding a home. I love

doing things that make the

dogs in our care happy,

whether that's teaching them

a new trick, or taking them

to one of the local beaches for

some time out of the kennel

environment."

He says nothing beats seeing

dogs coming into the Centre,

then waving them off to

their forever homes. "Being

greeted daily with waggy

tails is amazing and, whilst

there can be tears when they

leave, we know all the hard

work is worth it on adoption

day, when we put the dogs

in their new collars and then

bring them out to their new

families."

With 65 dogs being cared for

at any one time, every day is

busy. Each Canine Carer's day

starts with finding out what

new dogs have arrived or are

due to leave that day for a

FINAL PAWS

Dogs Trust Ilfracombe:

A Canine Carer's Day

WORDS by Kayla Maryon

From top: Phil with the Centre's biggest ever puppy, Fluffy;

feeding, training, cuddles and cleaning are all part of the day;

greyhounds on a group walk.

new home, what appointments

there are in the diary and

noting key information they

need for the day ahead.

This is followed by making

sure the dogs have everything

they need for the day – food,

exercise, clean kennels,

company, mental stimulation

and training. The vet suite at

the Centre is extremely busy

with new dogs having their

initial check-up and those

leaving for their new homes

getting a final health check.

Prior to going-home day,

all new owners will have

attended a pre-adoption talk

to help them understand how

to care for their dog. New

owners are also given some

food, medical information

about their new pet and four

weeks' free pet insurance.

Afternoons offer the chance

to spend time with the dogs

through playtime, training

or simply some fuss in their

kennel. The Centre is lucky

enough to have a woodland

walk and a beach on the

doorstep, which are great for

walks in new environments,

ensuring as varied a day as

possible for everyone.

At 4pm each day the dogs

have their final feed and walk

of the day and settle down for

the night, to dream of the day

when it's their turn to head off

to their new home with their

forever family. With the last

of the visitors gone, staff head

home for the day – ready to

do it all again tomorrow and

see which four-legged friends

they'll be caring for until they

find their special someone.

There are lots of ways that

you can help Dogs Trust

Ilfracombe. We have more

than 60 dogs in need of

rehoming, but if you cannot

adopt, don't despair. The

Centre also needs dog

sponsors, volunteers and

foster carers – and any old

blankets, dog toys or tasty

doggy treats will help to keep

the dogs cosy and well looked

after. The Centre is so grateful

for any doggy donations!

FIND OUT MORE

W: www.dogstrust.org.uk

T: 01271 812 709

E: IlfracombeRehoming@

dogstrust.org.uk


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