72 THE MODERNIST
IT’S HIP TO BE SQUARE Bell & Ross updates its BR 03 with a cool grey façade. WORDS ADAM CRANIOTES They say that it isn’t easy to reinvent the wheel, but what about the square? For Bell & Ross this has been a singular pursuit since the introduction of the now-iconic BR Instrument series, which seemingly created the square watch trend overnight. Fast forward 15 years — yes, the BR 01 was introduced back in 2005 — and what was once considered a novelty is now a mainstay of Bell & Ross’ collection, with a seemingly infinite variety of sizes, case materials and complications available. You want yours in carbon fiber? No problem. You require a tourbillon? Bell & Ross has you covered. You’re a diving enthusiast? They’ve got an ISO certified version, replete with a unidirectional timing bezel ready to go. So, with all these options, where else is there left to go? Air? Covered, obviously. Sea? Yup. Haute horlogerie? Done. Ah, but what about a day and night in the city? This, folks, is where the new BR 03-92 GREY LUM comes into its own. As Bell & Ross’ nomenclature goes, the 03 in the name refers to the smaller-sized Instrument case — remember, the original BR 01 clocked in at 46mm — but don’t be fooled as 42mm in a square configuration wears larger than it would in a round cased watch. That said, if you have the wrist for it, it is supremely comfortable. But aside from the relatively wrist-friendly size, just what is it about the GREY LUM that makes it fit for the urban dweller looking for a bit of conference-room-to-the-club versatility? In this instance, it’s the finishing that sets it apart from its stablemates, which up until now have come in a variety of anti-reflective bead-blasted finishes. With an alternating satin-brushed and polished case, the GREY LUM cuts a dashing figure through polite society, and when coupled with the sunburst grey dial, the overall package is one of urbane sophistication. This is all well and good during daylight hours spent in boardrooms and such, but what about after work, when the real deals are being made in swank, dimly lit watering holes and behind VIP ropes? As it so happens, this is where the GREY LUM truly shines. As the name implies, lume — okay, “LUM” in Bell & Ross parlance — is the name of the game, and as with past pieces in this subset of the BR 03 collection, the GREY LUM is treated to a healthy dose of C3 Super-LumiNova, which happens to be one of the brightest, longest-lasting application that they offer. In fact, in tests it lasts as long as eight hours, so go ahead and have another martini, you’re covered. Keeping you on time is the Bell & Ross BR-CAL.302 movement, which is based on the tried-and-true Sellita SW300, and like all BR 03s, the GREY LUM is good for 100 meters of water resistance. Rounding out the package is a grey suede strap that complements the dial brilliantly, though you can swap it out for a more rugged textile strap for workplace-bonding weekends at the paintball ranch (tools are included). The price? An eminently reasonable US$3,400. Overall, the BR 03-92 GREY LUM is a welcome, and dare we say it, versatile addition to the Instrument series — subtle when it needs to be, but not afraid to stand out from the crowd when the mood strikes. Sounds just like what a Bell & Ross should be. BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 GREY LUM MOVEMENT Self-winding caliber BR-CAL.302; hours, minutes and seconds; date; 42-hour power reserve CASE 42mm; satin-polished steel; water-resistant to 100m STRAP Grey-green calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric, with steel pin buckle THE MODERNIST 73
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CELEBRATING THE MACHINE WITH A HEAR
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BREGUET BOUTIQUES - NEW YORK 646 69
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COLLECTION Fifty Fathoms ©Photogra
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HOME OF FINE WATCHMAKING SINCE 1833
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CALIBER RM 67-01 RICHARD MILLE BOUT
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SEVEN DAYS V45 S6 SQT 212.463.8898
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CALIBER RM 07-01 RICHARD MILLE BOUT
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THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING RETAIL-SMAR
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A SPECIAL HOUSE Parmigiani CEO Davi
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128 BACKTOTHEFUTURE
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STRIVING FOR HONESTY A Breitling am
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132 BACKTOTHEFUTURE
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