REVOLUTION_International_Vol 54

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LVMH WATCH WEEK DUBAI INTRODUCING THE BVLGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI TOURBILLON WORDS STEPHANIE IP It grew more and more extravagant in the decades that followed. From the Dolce Vita era of the 1960s, to the logomania in the 1980s, and its transition into high-jewelry pieces in the 2000s, the Serpenti has evolved with the times, never content with standing still. In 2016, Bvlgari launched the Serpenti Incantati, a wild departure from the more familiar snake coil. Instead, the serpent wrapped its body around the bezel on the round watch, with its head resting over its tail. The tourbillon version of the Serpenti Incantati was the first time in three decades that a mechanical movement was brought back into the collection. A hugely significant move in my books, it was an indication that women have moved past desiring only gemstones, to wanting complexity in their watches as well. 2017 was the birth of the Serpenti Twist, another clear sign that the Serpenti was evolving to cater to a younger audience. Paired with double-wrap textured leather straps, it was one of the most casual versions of the Serpenti ever unveiled. And since last year, the Serpenti Seduttori has taken the spotlight. With the Serpenti Seduttori, Bvlgari has On paper, the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon already sounds pretty awesome. When the Seduttori collection launched last year, it was only made available with a quartz movement. Now, it’s returned with not just a mechanical movement, but a manual-winding tourbillon movement that Bvlgari claims is the smallest ladies’ tourbillon on the market. But to truly understand why the Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is such an amazing achievement, let’s briefly talk about what makes the Serpenti such an iconic collection. The Serpenti was born in 1948, right after World War II, when the brand unveiled the Tubogas watch; the polished coil of gold with a functional watch was seen as a more practical and acceptable form of ornamentation in the post-war years. Since then, the Serpenti collection has gone through many evolutions and shed its skin many times over. But, like its inspiration, the serpent-shaped watch with its worldfamous coiled bracelet has always sprung back from its reinventions, fresher, bolder and more appealing than ever. From its more abstract beginnings, the Serpenti began to take on a more naturalistic shape, the serpent-shaped head that we have now come to embrace was first included in the 1950s versions, with a hinged cover under which watch movements supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin or Piaget could be found. struck the perfect balance between simplicity and elegance — it isn’t as casual as the Serpenti Twist, and yet, not as extravagant as the gold-wrapped coils. It falls somewhere in between, its smooth and supple links a pretty and tameddown version of the scales that adorned the high-jewelry Serpenti of the past. The Serpenti Seduttori of 2019 all housed quartz movements. In 2020, they’re back with a manual-winding tourbillon movement in three versions. There is one in white gold with paved diamonds and another in rose gold with paved diamonds, both fitted with a leather strap. The third version is the most blinged out, in white gold with paved diamonds and a matching scaled bracelet totaling over 7.5 carats of diamonds. Inside the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is the caliber BVL150, the smallest tourbillon on the market, made possible by combining Bvlgari’s expertise in jewelry-making and its savoir-faire in watchmaking. The movement is viewable from the transparent sapphire caseback; it features a sapphire bridge, and is rhodium-plated and handdecorated with Côtes de Genève, perlage and beveling. And so, the most important part of the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon isn’t just its commendable milestone of creating a truly amazing complication for women. It is its ability to successfully shed its skin time after time, capturing the hearts of women through the decades with each rebirth. 52 THE MODERNIST
BVLGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI TOURBILLON MOVEMENT Manually wound caliber BVL150; hours and minutes; tourbillon; 40-hour power reserve CASE 34mm white gold or rose gold with paved diamonds; water resistant to 30m STRAP Blue or brown leather strap, or white gold paved diamond bracelet THE MODERNIST 53
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CELEBRATING THE MACHINE WITH A HEAR
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Page 7 and 8: COLLECTION Fifty Fathoms ©Photogra
Page 9 and 10: HOME OF FINE WATCHMAKING SINCE 1833
Page 11 and 12: CALIBER RM 67-01 RICHARD MILLE BOUT
Page 13 and 14: SEVEN DAYS V45 S6 SQT 212.463.8898
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Page 17 and 18: Tangente Update. Made in Germany. T
Page 19 and 20: CALIBER RM 07-01 RICHARD MILLE BOUT
Page 23 and 24: Piaget Altiplano 38mm Bulino Engrav
Page 26 and 27: On Niclas Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Page 28: THE GREAT INNOVATOR — THE INCREDI
Page 31 and 32: CEO of Bvlgari, Jean-Christophe Bab
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Page 36 and 37: The Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandbl
Page 38 and 39: TIMELINE 2014 OCTO FINISSIMO MECHAN
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Page 44 and 45: The Bvlgari × Revolution Octo Fini
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Page 49 and 50: THE MODERNIST At the attic of Zenit
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Page 53: with an integrated bracelet. While
Page 57 and 58: In 1983, Land Rover created one of
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Page 68 and 69: This page, from top The crowd watch
Page 70 and 71: THE ABSOLUTE ZENITH OF MANUFACTURE
Page 72 and 73: THE FIRST FULLY INDUSTRIALIZED WATC
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Page 85 and 86: ZENITH X REVOLUTION CHRONOMASTER RE
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A NEW SPRING DRIVE Last year when w
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This page, clockwise The SBGW263 in
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Next, housed in yellow gold and wit
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In January this year, when Oris bro
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This page, clockwise from top left
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INNOVATIONS IN THE INDUSTRY: HUBLOT
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INNOVATIVE MATERIALS Hublot’s inn
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A TRUE SCIENTIFIC LABORATORY This m
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THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING RETAIL-SMAR
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smell what is going on, they can fe
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A SPECIAL HOUSE Parmigiani CEO Davi
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128 BACKTOTHEFUTURE
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STRIVING FOR HONESTY A Breitling am
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132 BACKTOTHEFUTURE
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to California to visit Joshua Tree,
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VINTAGE Bona fide style icon and fo
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VINTAGE 139
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changed color through the alchemic
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this. As a comparison, of the Ferra
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HOW LASER WELDING WORKS 1. A series
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adage that “you don’t buy the w
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Left The Day-Date 36 reference 1803
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Above left A reference 18238 “Gol
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A-Z OF DAY-DATE STONE DIALS Agate A
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The 18188A ‘Lucky Wheel’, featu
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CALL COLLECT: MARK CHO Founder of T
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VINTAGE 159 chronograph I ever boug
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I couldn’t get over the big Bvlga
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Wei Koh: Welcome Austen, to our new
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Above The Royal Oak Perpetual Calen
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the knowledge or the know-how to di
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www.grand-seiko.com/us-en
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