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REVOLUTION_International_Vol 54

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Royal Oak 15202. Both are thin watches using the Jaeger-<br />

LeCoultre-designed caliber 2121 as their base. In the last few<br />

years, innumerable brands have tried to contest for a place<br />

as a worthy competitor to these icons. However, the Octo<br />

Finissimo was launched before the current Nautilus and<br />

Royal Oak craze, and is further distinguished by being both<br />

wildly different, yet more spiritually aligned than any other.<br />

First, it is the only watch that is significantly thinner than<br />

the original 3700 Nautilus or the <strong>54</strong>02 Royal Oak. Second,<br />

it is also the only one with a bracelet that is significantly<br />

thinner and more ingenious than the original watches.<br />

And third, it is the only watch that is far more innovatively<br />

constructed. In this regard, it is truly a child of the new<br />

millennium. Its indices are galvanically grown and glued<br />

onto the ultra-thin dial. The movement is fixed inside a<br />

monobloc case from the front and then sealed by screwing<br />

the bezel to this case. It actually is the one watch that you<br />

could imagine Gérald Genta appreciating most today.<br />

When Bvlgari first launched the Octo Finissimo, it did<br />

so in a myriad of interesting, technical materials such as<br />

sandblasted titanium, ceramic and carbon fiber. Even the<br />

precious-metal rose-gold version was unconventional in<br />

that it was also sandblasted. But now that the Octo Finissimo<br />

is an established success, and it has finally been executed<br />

in steel with a black dial, you totally understand the logic.<br />

If the Nautilus and Royal Oak are charmingly backwardlooking,<br />

the Bvlgari has its ethos fully locked into the future<br />

and it virtually bristles with the dynamic tension between<br />

its architectural muscularity and its ultra-thin elegance in a<br />

way that the other two watches do not. Now offered in steel,<br />

it is not really a competitor to the other two watches as much<br />

as a far more modern alternative that carves out a niche all<br />

its own, at a price less than half that of its predecessors.<br />

Hublot never fails to impress me. And that is because<br />

it was set up by Jean-Claude Biver and Ricardo Guadalupe<br />

to run as efficiently and dynamically as a start-up, while<br />

boasting some of the most extraordinary results in the<br />

watch world. It is also a brand that many people erroneously<br />

consider to be purely lifestyle segmented. However, a<br />

look back at the key technical innovations of Hublot since<br />

2005 will show that the brand’s technical achievements<br />

are staggering (look out for the story in this issue). The<br />

42mm Big Bang Integral was one of the best conceptualized<br />

timepieces of the fair because it recognized precisely that<br />

many watch buyers are looking for something with all the<br />

modernist cool of the Hublot, but in a more wearable size and<br />

At the opening of<br />

the exhibition, the<br />

leaders of the LVMH<br />

Watch Division held<br />

a press conference<br />

to launch the<br />

showcase.<br />

On stage, from left<br />

The emcee of the<br />

event; Commercial<br />

Director of Bvlgari<br />

Antoine Pin; CEO<br />

of the LVMH Watch<br />

Division and TAG<br />

Heuer Stéphane<br />

Bianchi; CEO of<br />

Bvlgari, Jean-<br />

Christophe Babin;<br />

CEO of Hublot<br />

Ricardo Guadalupe;<br />

CEO of Zenith,<br />

Julien Tornare.<br />

Opposite<br />

CEO of Bvlgari,<br />

Jean-Christophe<br />

Babin, poses for a<br />

shot to celebrate<br />

the launch of this<br />

inaugural event.<br />

50 THE MODERNIST

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