REVOLUTION_International_Vol 54

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The Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted in steel (left), titanium (middle and rose gold (right). Left The Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted in steel with an integrated black alligator leather strap. Bvlgari’s BVL 128 and 138 calibers bear individual bridges that do away with the need for a top plate or bridges, which also allows the balance to sit in line with the gear train, rather than over it. The design, originated by Jean-Antoine Lépine, adds greater stability to an ultrathin movement. 34 COVER STORY
2017: OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC Bvlgari followed up the incredible minute repeater with another world record, now in the category of the automatic small seconds watch featuring a micro-rotor. And, perhaps just as importantly, introducing the world to Bvlgari’s now signature ultra-thin integrated bracelet. Launched in 2017, the Octo Finissmo Automatic and its BVL 138 movement would eventually supplant the manual-wind version, though I like to think that this makes the manual-wind, specialedition Octo Finissimo Skeleton in titanium — like that on the minute repeater — made in just 50 examples for Revolution that much more collectible. Says Babin, “We moved to the micro-rotor automatic movement because we knew from our clients that this was a desired added touch of practicality. Yet we managed to achieve this without adding a single micron in the thickness to the movement going from manual to automatic, which I consider as great an achievement as any of our complications.” The automatic Octo Finissimo was launched in three versions: a matte titanium version, a sandblasted gold version and a bright rhodium-treated steel version, each stunning in its own right. However, what made each watch particularly groundbreaking was that it was accompanied by the industry’s first truly advanced integrated metal bracelet. Compare a vintage Nautilus 3700 watch head to its bracelet and you understand that the two parts are made by different manufactures. And as beloved as the quirky Gay Frères bracelets are, they are never quite equal to the watch. Says Buonamassa, “The idea was that if we had spent all this tremendous investment and energy into creating a truly groundbreaking watch, then we absolutely had to create an equally groundbreaking bracelet.” Not only does the Octo Finissimo bracelet complement the model with its combination of muscular design when viewed from the front, yet extraordinarily slender profile when viewed from the side, it is also incredibly comfortable. Says Babin, “This is down to the incredible clasp that Fabrizio designed that is fully integrated and that you barely even feel is there. Again you see that at Bvlgari, it’s always technical innovation serving the needs of aesthetics.” Above The Octo Finissimo Skeleton Ceramic (left) and Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic (right), both introduced in 2019. Above left Fabrizio Buonamassa’s sketch of the microrotor that powers the BVL 138 caliber. COVER STORY 35
Page 1 and 2: CELEBRATING THE MACHINE WITH A HEAR
Page 3: BREGUET BOUTIQUES - NEW YORK 646 69
Page 7 and 8: COLLECTION Fifty Fathoms ©Photogra
Page 9 and 10: HOME OF FINE WATCHMAKING SINCE 1833
Page 11 and 12: CALIBER RM 67-01 RICHARD MILLE BOUT
Page 13 and 14: SEVEN DAYS V45 S6 SQT 212.463.8898
Page 15 and 16: intentionally allowing the majority
Page 17 and 18: Tangente Update. Made in Germany. T
Page 19 and 20: CALIBER RM 07-01 RICHARD MILLE BOUT
Page 23 and 24: Piaget Altiplano 38mm Bulino Engrav
Page 26 and 27: On Niclas Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Page 28: THE GREAT INNOVATOR — THE INCREDI
Page 31 and 32: CEO of Bvlgari, Jean-Christophe Bab
Page 33 and 34: I should also pause to reflect on t
Page 38 and 39: TIMELINE 2014 OCTO FINISSIMO MECHAN
Page 41 and 42: 2018: OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON AUT
Page 44 and 45: The Bvlgari × Revolution Octo Fini
Page 46 and 47: 2020: OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC SATI
Page 49 and 50: THE MODERNIST At the attic of Zenit
Page 51 and 52: THE GAME CHANGE - LVMH WATCH FAIR I
Page 53 and 54: with an integrated bracelet. While
Page 55 and 56: BVLGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI TOURBILL
Page 57 and 58: In 1983, Land Rover created one of
Page 59: LVMH WATCH WEEK DUBAI MADE OF STARD
Page 62 and 63: This page, clockwise from top left
Page 64 and 65: ZENITH × REVOLUTION AND THE RAKE T
Page 66 and 67: 64 THE MODERNIST
Page 68 and 69: This page, from top The crowd watch
Page 70 and 71: THE ABSOLUTE ZENITH OF MANUFACTURE
Page 72 and 73: THE FIRST FULLY INDUSTRIALIZED WATC
Page 76 and 77: WHEN THE STARS ALIGN One of the bri
Page 81 and 82: INTRODUCING THE ZENITH X THE RAKE A
Page 83 and 84: THE MODERNIST 81
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ZENITH X REVOLUTION CHRONOMASTER RE
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THE MODERNIST 85
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staying too deep for too long. It c
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THE CARRERA, 1964 (LEFT) VS 2020 (R
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BACK TO THE FUTURE Combine a French
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n . it was always for me and how fa
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significant technological advanceme
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LA GRANDE DAME As Grand Seiko celeb
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A NEW SPRING DRIVE Last year when w
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This page, clockwise The SBGW263 in
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Next, housed in yellow gold and wit
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In January this year, when Oris bro
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This page, clockwise from top left
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INNOVATIONS IN THE INDUSTRY: HUBLOT
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INNOVATIVE MATERIALS Hublot’s inn
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A TRUE SCIENTIFIC LABORATORY This m
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THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING RETAIL-SMAR
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smell what is going on, they can fe
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A SPECIAL HOUSE Parmigiani CEO Davi
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128 BACKTOTHEFUTURE
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STRIVING FOR HONESTY A Breitling am
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132 BACKTOTHEFUTURE
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to California to visit Joshua Tree,
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VINTAGE Bona fide style icon and fo
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VINTAGE 139
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changed color through the alchemic
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this. As a comparison, of the Ferra
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HOW LASER WELDING WORKS 1. A series
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adage that “you don’t buy the w
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Left The Day-Date 36 reference 1803
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Above left A reference 18238 “Gol
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A-Z OF DAY-DATE STONE DIALS Agate A
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The 18188A ‘Lucky Wheel’, featu
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CALL COLLECT: MARK CHO Founder of T
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VINTAGE 159 chronograph I ever boug
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I couldn’t get over the big Bvlga
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Wei Koh: Welcome Austen, to our new
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Above The Royal Oak Perpetual Calen
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the knowledge or the know-how to di
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www.grand-seiko.com/us-en
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