You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
I should also pause to reflect on the beauty and<br />
pragmatism of Bvlgari’s movement design. First, the<br />
movement is as Buonamassa called it a “full bridge” design,<br />
which means each part of the gear train is retained by a<br />
different bridge, making it much more practical to service.<br />
Further, the balance wheel sits on a bridge fixed on both<br />
sides rather than a cock which is only fixed on one side. This<br />
provides better stability and shock resistance.<br />
I recall the moment I tried on the Octo Finissimo<br />
manual-wind watch in 2014, thinking to myself what an<br />
absolute revelation it was. First, because in a very different<br />
way than Richard Mille, which is all about expressing the<br />
world of motorsport and aerospace technology, Bvlgari had<br />
created the first classic chic timepiece that was unabashedly<br />
forward-looking rather than reaching inexorably into its<br />
past. And while there is nothing wrong with watches that<br />
are almost exact extensions of models created a half century<br />
ago — indeed that is precisely why people love the Audemars<br />
Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin 15202 or Omega Speedmaster<br />
Moonwatch Professional — here we had for the first time<br />
in the sports chic genre something that moved the game<br />
forward aesthetically and technically by light years. The Octo<br />
Finissimo in many ways reminds me of the cars designed<br />
by my friend, Ferrari creative director Flavio Manzoni, in<br />
which he intentionally avoids overtly referencing the past<br />
and wants to create the aesthetic heritage of the future by<br />
taking massive and fearless leaps forward.<br />
The plate on which<br />
the maison’s logo<br />
and hour indexes<br />
are positioned,<br />
with the actual<br />
Octo Finissimo<br />
Petite Seconds.<br />
The small seconds<br />
counteris printed<br />
on the dial,<br />
because the height<br />
clearance needed<br />
for the seconds<br />
hand would not fit<br />
under the sapphire<br />
crystal otherwise.<br />
COVER STORY 31