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REVOLUTION_International_Vol 54

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I should also pause to reflect on the beauty and<br />

pragmatism of Bvlgari’s movement design. First, the<br />

movement is as Buonamassa called it a “full bridge” design,<br />

which means each part of the gear train is retained by a<br />

different bridge, making it much more practical to service.<br />

Further, the balance wheel sits on a bridge fixed on both<br />

sides rather than a cock which is only fixed on one side. This<br />

provides better stability and shock resistance.<br />

I recall the moment I tried on the Octo Finissimo<br />

manual-wind watch in 2014, thinking to myself what an<br />

absolute revelation it was. First, because in a very different<br />

way than Richard Mille, which is all about expressing the<br />

world of motorsport and aerospace technology, Bvlgari had<br />

created the first classic chic timepiece that was unabashedly<br />

forward-looking rather than reaching inexorably into its<br />

past. And while there is nothing wrong with watches that<br />

are almost exact extensions of models created a half century<br />

ago — indeed that is precisely why people love the Audemars<br />

Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin 15202 or Omega Speedmaster<br />

Moonwatch Professional — here we had for the first time<br />

in the sports chic genre something that moved the game<br />

forward aesthetically and technically by light years. The Octo<br />

Finissimo in many ways reminds me of the cars designed<br />

by my friend, Ferrari creative director Flavio Manzoni, in<br />

which he intentionally avoids overtly referencing the past<br />

and wants to create the aesthetic heritage of the future by<br />

taking massive and fearless leaps forward.<br />

The plate on which<br />

the maison’s logo<br />

and hour indexes<br />

are positioned,<br />

with the actual<br />

Octo Finissimo<br />

Petite Seconds.<br />

The small seconds<br />

counteris printed<br />

on the dial,<br />

because the height<br />

clearance needed<br />

for the seconds<br />

hand would not fit<br />

under the sapphire<br />

crystal otherwise.<br />

COVER STORY 31

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