REVOLUTION_International_Vol 54

STRINGS AND THINGS
In 1977 the Day-Date underwent something of a makeover. The
first change was the introduction of a quick-set date change and
the second was the introduction of a sapphire crystal. It was still in
a 36mm case and the metal options were unchanged, but it was an
update none-the-less. The five-digit Day-Date, however, heralded
a new chapter in the gem setting of the watch dials. The “eight plus
two” dials were still used extensively, but this look was supplemented
by a wide range of new styles. Special order watches had always been
available and so there are unique examples from the 1800 series
watches, but the main aim of this piece is to give a general overview of
what was produced in regular production. The exciting thing about
Rolex is that every year new, previously unseen examples surface.
The string dials saw a string of brilliant-cut diamonds set around
the minute track. The hour markers would then be marked with an
additional diamond or in some cases an emerald, ruby or sapphire. In
some rare cases the hours were marked with a single baguette-cut stone.
This page, clockwise
from top left
A Day-Date 18239
“Victory Lap” model
with a ring of brilliantcut
diamonds along
the minute track.
A reference 18039 has
baguette diamonds
for the hour markers
instead of a double
row of brilliantcut
diamonds.
A 18038 “Ruby
Roulette” in yellow
gold, with a selfexplanatory
moniker.
Pavé dials also came into use. One of my favourite iterations is
the paved chapter ring. Essentially this was a precious metal ring
that continued in the same thickness as the day window around the
inner circumference of the dial and it was paved with diamonds. The
chapter ring would be highlighted at the hours with brilliant cut stones,
including diamonds, rubies and sapphires.
The full pavé dial is a Rolex Classic. Who doesn’t love a full dial of
sparkling stones? Still in use today in Rolex sports watches, the full pavé
dial’s maiden voyage was on the Day-Date. Rolex takes gem-setting
very seriously, much like everything else that they do. They only employ
the very best artisans who can flawlessly carry out the work and insist
on the highest possible quality of stones for use on their watches. All the
diamonds used, even the tiniest for full pavé dials, must include zero
inclusions when checked at 10x magnification. Each stone is checked by
eye and compared with master stones to ensure only the finest examples
make it onto watches — Rolex even has its own proprietary tools to
ensure each stone is of uniform shape. The cut used for pavé dials is
known as the 8/8 cut, which has a total of 17 facets.
150 VINTAGE