British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2021

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

City | Coast | Country 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2020 | ISSUE 07 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

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beauty 

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FIND YOUR BREATHING SPACE WITH 

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HAVE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE 

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find out why WALES is the perfect destination for a UK staycation in our 10 page special

THE NEW TR ADITI O N 

RESEIGH FOOKS BRAND AND PACKAGING DESIGN CLIENT: NOBLE ISLE STAGE 3 29th June 2011 

C O N T R I B U T I O N S 


JOURNAL 


WELCOME 

editors 

Editor-in-chief Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

expert contributors 

Melanie Abrams 

Chantal Borciani 

Helen Holmes 

Adrian Mourby 

Karyn Noble 

Emma O’Reilly 

Lydia Paleschi 

Max Wooldridge 

Adrienne Wyper 

FRONT COVER IMAGE 

St Nectan's Glen, Trethevy, North Cornwall 

Photo: Editor's own 

FEATURE CHOICE 

48 Hours in Fowey p63 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

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Southampton, SO31 9HP 

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01489 660680 

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THE RISE IN staycations, 

brought about by the 

coronavirus pandemic, has 

opened many more eyes to 

Britain’s amazing travel destinations. 

Some are discovering for the first 

time, as British Travel Journal readers 

have always known, that our beautiful 

countryside, sandy shores, spectacular 

landmarks and world-class hotels 

are far from a 'second choice' holiday 

option. Our latest issue - brimming 

with inspirational travel ideas from 

around our glorious island - should 

be enough to convince even the most 

hardened of international traveller, that a holiday in the British Isles won’t feel like 

a compromise. That’s why this year we’re offering a special discount on our ‘gift’ 

subscriptions for families and friends (p68), spreading the word, and hoping that 

this surge we are seeing in popularity for UK travel experiences will be here long 

after the virus has gone. 

Staying in the UK comes with many bonuses too, like not having to worry 

about what to do with beloved four-legged friends, as we discover in our Dog- 

Friendly Holidays feature (p76), and giving back to our spectacular scenery and 

wildlife in the next of our sustainable travel series, Discovering Nature (p44). 

We hope you will be feeling on top of the world with our selection of Britain’s 

Best Panoramas (p48), and you might enjoy painting them too, so we show you 

how in Nurture your Creativity (p71). We offer a taste of the New Forest in our 

Interview with Head Chef, Luke Matthews (p54) and discover more spectacular 

scenery, heading west to Wild Wales (p26), before turning south to the Polperro 

Heritage Coast, 48 Hours in Fowey (p63). Other featured destinations this issue 

include The Charm of Clovelly, (p88) and Scotland’s Isle of Arran where we head 

to Meet the Makers of Isle of Arran Gin (p58). 

If you're not feeling ready to travel just yet, we hope this issue helps keep your 

dreams of future travel plans alive - and that planning ahead will help to give you 

the confidence you need for a safe and memorable trip away soon. 

Finally, we're delighted to have been nominated this year for 'Best Consumer 

Travel Magazine' in the 2020 British Travel Awards, and would love your help to 

try and win! Please vote for us from our direct page britishtraveljournal.com/vote, 

thank you. We look forward to continuing to share our travel adventures together. u 

Pictured above: Editor visits 

Clovelly (see p88) 

Jessica x 

Jessica Way 

Editor-In-Chief 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

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SPA & WELLNESS • ACCOMMODATION • ABBEY GARDEN • DINING • GALLERY

36 

CONTENTS 


26 

84 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

A look at what’s new and travel 

noteworthy in the British Isles. 

10 VIEWPOINT 

Captivating images from our favourite 

photographers to take you there in an instant. 

CULTURAL AGENDA 

17 Dates for your autumn/winter diary 

BRITAIN’S BEST PANORAMAS 

48 

From West Country tors, Scottish 

mountain summits to elevated city views, 

feel on top of the world with our selection of 

Britain’s most awesome panoramas. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Latest travel essentials and crossword. 

FEATURES 

26 

WILD WALES 

To the west of England lies a Celtic 

principality that has been attracting 

English tourists for centuries. 

THE BEST UK RAIL TRAILS 

36 Walk or cycle along a former railway line. 

DISCOVERING NATURE 

44 

Spend your next trip marvelling at the 

richness of our native flora and fauna – and 

help to ensure that our spectacular scenery and 

wildlife are maintained for future generations. 

COASTAL FORAGING 

84 Wild edibles are in abundance across 

the British Isles with a tantalising range of 

fungi, plants, shellfish and seaweed on offer 

countrywide. 

à 


76 

E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

Pullman Editions original and 

exclusive limited-edition Art 

Deco posters of glamorous 

destinations around the world, 

from ski resorts in the French Alps 

to Supercars in Knightsbridge. 

Priced £395. 

pullmaneditions.com 

LIFESTYLE 

54 

INTERVIEW WITH LUKE 

MATTHEWS, CHEWTON GLEN 

Five-star Chewton Glen has stood the test of 

time with aplomb, here its Executive Head 

Chef reveals the secret to its timeless elegance 

and tremendous new offerings 

MEET THE MAKERS 

58 OF ISLE OF ARRAN GIN 

There’s a growing artisanal movement on 

Scotland’s Isle of Arran, and now it has its first 

craft gin, we meet the locals behind the brand. 

68 

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NURTURE YOUR CREATIVITY 

71 We show you how a painting break will 

open your eyes, and supply inspiration from 

our island’s wealth of spectacular scenery. 

DOG-FRIENDLY HOLIDAYS 

76 The woof guide to ten of the warmest 

welcomes for you and your best friend. 

88 

ITINERARIES 

63 

48 HOURS IN FOWEY 

Find sanctuary on the lesser-known 

Polperro Heritage Coast, avoiding the crowds 

and embracing the Cornish Riviera lifestyle. 

THE CHARM OF CLOVELLY 

88 Recently named as ‘the most 

instagrammable village in the UK’, we 

discover more about this stunning North 

Devon harbour. 

THE BIRCH 

92 If you’re yearning for a UK mini-break 

with a difference then you’ll be hard pushed to 

find a better escape than The Birch - the UK’s 

most trendy new hotel to open this year. 

SCOTLAND’S ONLY LUXURY 

96 FLOATING HOTEL 

Treat your loved ones to something special this 

year with an overnight stay aboard Fingal, a 

luxury floating hotel permanently berthed on 

Edinburgh’s vibrant waterfront. u 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

Holmewell House, Lake Windermere, Cumbria 

Find your special place 

From quintessential cottages and country houses 

to quirky windmills and lighthouses. 

A portfolio of over 

550 luxury, self-catering 

holiday properties 

in the UK and Ireland. 

View the properties 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

Call for our brochure 

01386 897 959

Multi-million pound refurbishment completed in May 2020 Walking distance from many iconic landmarks WTTC Safe Travel Accredited - Covid-19 secure 

the heart of London, the hotel is mere moments from Covent Garden, 

Trafalgar Strand Square Palace is and surrounded the Thames, by making the best it London the perfect has location to offer. for 

discovering Set in the cultural heart of icons. 

the heart of London, the 

London, hotel is 

the mere 

hotel moments 

is mere from 

moments Covent 

from 

Garden, 

Trafalgar 

Covent Square 

Garden, and 

Trafalgar the Thames, 

Square making 

and the it the 

Thames, perfect 

making location 

it 

for 

discovering 

the perfect cultural 

location icons. 

for discovering cultural icons. 

BOOK DIRECT ONLINE AT 

www.strandpalacehotel.co.uk 

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Experience 

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+44 (0)20 7379 4737 | info@strandpalacehotel.co.uk 

372 Strand, London WC2R 0JJ 

+44 (0)20 7379 4737 | info@strandpalacehotel.co.uk 

372 Strand, London WC2R 0JJ 

@strandpalace 

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TRAVEL NEWS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations 

THE MITRE 

Now open as a relaxed and sophisticated 

36 room boutique hotel on the banks of the 

River Thames with balconies and private 

courtyards (fire pits and jacuzzis) overlooking 

the river. Hotel rooms from £195 a night 

mitrehamptoncourt.com 

LARGEST UK EXHIBITION OF OUTDOOR SCULPTURES 

Influential works of British sculptor Anish Kapoor will exhibit in the grounds and historic interiors 

of Houghton Hall in Norfolk. The exhibition features 24 mirror and stone sculptures as well as 

drawings, challenging the classical architecture of the house and the idyllic beauty of the grounds, 

whilst being in continuous dialogue and engagement with Houghton’s history. Anish Kapoor is one 

of the most influential sculptors working today, known for creating ambitious public sculptures 

adventurous in both form and engineering across vastly different scales and materials. 

Exhibition runs until 1 Nov 2020, tickets for adults £16, students £10. houghtonhall.com 

THE BEAR 

Escape to this newly renovated 18th 

Century Coaching Inn on the Jurassic Coast. 

The quirky and cosy inn has stylish rooms, 

hearty food, fabulous cakes and artisan coffees. 

Prices from £290 for two nights for two 

thebearwareham.co.uk 

N E W P R O D U C T L A U N C H 

CORNWALL’S BOUTIQUE BARNS 

Escape to holiday luxury in Aria Resorts’ brandnew 

boutique luxury two, three, four and six 

bedroomed barns at the 5-star Retallack Resort 

& Spa in Cornwall. Prices from £383 per night. 

ariaresorts.co.uk/retallack-resort 

THE STORY OF GARDENING 

One of the UK’s most innovative new attractions, 

The Story of Gardening is an immersive experience 

at The Newt in Somerset, exploring gardens from 

around the world and throughout time. 

thenewtinsomerset.com/the-story-of-gardening 

SMART CLEAN 

This handy 2-in-1 UV 

sanitiser and wireless 

charger disinfects your 

tech and accessories 

in a 10-minute intensive 

sterilisation, £59.99. 

qdossound.com 


10 BritishTravelJournal.com 

VIEWPOINT

Captivating images from our favourite photographers to take you 

there in an instant. This issue we feature Andrew Ray, a full time 

professional landscape photographer, specialising in the UK 

Words | Emma O'Reilly 

O T T E R I S L A N D 

“THIS PHOTO WAS TAKEN AT 

OTTER ISLAND IN ABBOTS 

BAY NEAR THE SOUTHERN 

END OF DERWENTWATER 

IN THE LAKE DISTRICT 

NATIONAL PARK. I TOOK 

THIS ON A MORNING IN LATE 

OCTOBER WHEN THE SURFACE 

OF THE LAKE WAS STILL 

ENOUGH FOR REFLECTIONS 

TO BE CAPTURED.” 


ST MICHAEL'S 

MOUNT 

“THE CAUSEWAY TO ST MICHAEL'S 

MOUNT IN CORNWALL PARTIALLY 

COVERED BY THE INCOMING TIDE. 

THE PICTURE WAS TAKEN SHORTLY 

BEFORE SUNSET USING A ONE- 

SECOND SHUTTER SPEED TO BLUR THE 

MOVEMENT IN A BREAKING WAVE.” 

BLACK ROCK 

COTTAGE 

“BLACK ROCK COTTAGE ON 

RANNOCH MOOR IN THE 

SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS WITH 

SNOWCAPPED MOUNTAINS IN THE 

BUACHAILLE ETIVE MOR RANGE, 

AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE PASS 

OF GLENCOE IN THE DISTANCE. 

THE IMAGE WAS CAPTURED ON 

A STORMY AFTERNOON IN EARLY 

NOVEMBER.” 


PISTYLL RHAEADR 

WATERFALL 

“PISTYLL RHAEADR, A 240-FOOT WATERFALL 

IN POWYS, IS CLASSIFIED AS ONE OF THE 

SEVEN WONDERS OF WALES. THE IMAGE WAS 

SHOT FROM A HIGH VANTAGE POINT ON 

THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE VALLEY ON A 

MORNING IN EARLY NOVEMBER” 



P E R R A N P O R T H 

“THIS IS ONE OF THE OLDEST 

AND MOST POPULAR IMAGES 

IN MY PORTFOLIO. THE 

NATURAL SEA ARCH ON 

PERRANPORTH BEACH IN 

CORNWALL WAS ILLUMINATED 

BY EARLY MORNING 

SUNLIGHT.” 

M O R E A B O U T 

O U R 

P H O T O G R A P H E R 

Andrew Ray lives in Cornwall, where much 

of his inspiration for great photography 

comes from. Mountainous destinations – the 

Scottish Highlands, Wales and the Lake 

District – are also favourites. 

〰 

He became interested in photography in 

his early twenties. ‘My doctor suggested 

spending more time outside could help with 

the migraines I was suffering with, so I took 

up walking. Cornwall has such inspirational 

scenery that photographing this was a 

natural progression. Initially, after taking 

an evening course, it was just a hobby, but 

it quickly turned into a full-time profession 

which has lasted for over 20 years’ 

〰 

‘I aim to create strong compositions in 

quality light – particularly during the ‘golden’ 

hours around sunrise and sunset. All of my 

photographs are captured using Canon 

cameras (currently the Canon EOS 5D Mark 

IV) and a tripod, along with a selection of 

professional lenses and filters which are used to 

balance brightness levels or for creative effect.’ 

〰 

Andrew’s images have received numerous 

awards including Royal Photographic 

Society medals for both landscape and 

wildlife. He regularly features in local 

and national newspapers, books, and 

magazines. 

〰 

Readers can buy Andrew’s prints or book 

onto his one-to-one and group photography 

tuition tours in Cornwall by visiting 

andrewrayphotography.com 


CULTURAL AGENDA 

H O T T H I S S E A S O N 

Exhibitions | Museums | Galleries | Shows 

W E LOVE 

The Belles 

Two steel sculptures dotted around the 

town mark Scarborough as Britain’s first 

seaside resort. Made by Craig Knowles, 

an early Bathing Belle steps down from 

a bathing machine (changing room) 

on sandy North Bay. Whilst next to the 

Vincent Pier lighthouse, a modern 

Diving Belle heads into the sea. 

discoveryorkshirecoast.com 

à 

Words | Melanie Abrams

W H A T W E ’ R E B O O K I N G 

Michael Clark 

07 OCTOBER 2020 – 03 JANUARY 2021 

To celebrate dancer and choreographer, 

Michael Clark’s 15 years as the Barbican’s 

artistic associate, the centre’s art gallery is 

holding a retrospective of his avant garde 

oeuvre from 7 October. Alongside films 

of his mesmerising moves, the exhibition 

highlights his visual artistic collaborations, 

says curator, Florence Ostend, including 

his naked body sculpted by Sarah Lucas for 

her installation, Cnut. 

barbican.org.uk 

PICTURED 

LEFT: OXANA 

PANCHENKO 

AND CLAIR 

THOMAS IN 

A PUBLICITY 

SHOT FOR 

COME, BEEN 

AND GONE, 

2009. RIGHT: 

MICHAEL 

CLARK 

Tracey Emin/Edvard Munch: The 

Loneliness of the Soul 

15 NOVEMBER 2020 – 28 FEBRUARY 2021 

This season’s most intriguing show pits 

Tracey Emin’s visceral work with that of The 

Scream painter, Edvard Munch at the Royal 

Academy of Arts from 15 November. Loss, 

longing and other emotions inspired them 

both, according to Emin, who has picked 

around 44 pieces from her multi-media 

archive and his to demonstrate their affinity 

100 years apart. 

royalacademy.org.uk 

PICTURED BELOW: TRACEY 

152 X 183.5 X 3.7 CM. XAVIER 

EDVARD MUNCH, THE DEATH OF MARAT, 1907. OIL ON CANVAS, 

153 X 149 CM. MUNCHMUSEET 

Lynette Yiadom-Boakye: Fly in League 

with the Night 

18 NOVEMBER 2020 – 9 MAY 2021 

It’s about time that British figurative artist, 

Lynette Yiadom-Boakye had a major 

retrospective. Now Tate Britain will hold 

the first one from 18 November. With her 

imaginary characters in everyday settings 

– reading, lounging or in a group hug, she 

makes art relatable and relevant. 

tate.org.uk 


LYNETTE YIADOM-BOAKYE 

CITRINE BY THE OUNCE 

2014 PRIVATE COLLECTION 

© COURTESY OF LYNETTE YIADOM-BOAKYE 

LYNETTE YIADOM-BOAKYE 

COMPLICATION 

2013 PRIVATE COLLECTION 

© COURTESY OF LYNETTE YIADOM-BOAKYE

EMIN, IT - DIDNT STOP - I DIDNT STOP, 2019. ACRYLIC ON CANVAS, 

HUFKENS © TRACEY EMIN. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, DACS 2020 

© 2019 TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 

W H A T W E ’ R E W A T C H I N G ? 

West Side Story 

18 DECEMBER 2020 

Whilst Megxit has pit the 

Sussexes against the Cambridges, 

from 18 December, it’s the Jets vs 

the Sharks - as Steven Spielberg’s West Side 

Story remake hits the cinemas. Ansel Elgort 

plays Tony, whilst newcomer Rachel Zegler 

plays Maria. Watch out for Rita Moreno as 

Tony’s boss. As Anita in the 1961 original, she 

turned America iconic. 

amblin.com/movie/west-side-story/ 

IMAGES BELOW (CLOCKWISE): KARL LAGERFELD APARTMENT, MONTE CARLO; 

“HORIZON” BY MICHELE DE LUCCHI 1984. MEMPHIS MILANO COLLECTION; 

“BURUNDI” BY NATHALIE DU PASQUIER 1981. MEMPHIS MILANO COLLECTION; 

“LIDO” BY MICHELE DE LUCCHI 1982. MEMPHIS MILANO COLLECTION; MEMPHIS 

DESIGNERS WITH MASANORI UMEDA'S TAWARAYA BED 1981. 

S P O T L I G H T O N : 

T H E M E M P H I S G R O U P 

Memphis: Plastic Field 

21 NOVEMBER 2020 – 24 APRIL 2021 

For a design masterclass, head to Milton 

Keynes’ MK Gallery. The year old space 

is showing the influential work of Italian 

architect and designer, Ettore Sottsass and his 

1980s collective, the Memphis Group, from 

21 November. See why their bold colours, 

unusual materials and strong geometric style 

appealed to fans like David Bowie. 

mkgallery.org

Registered Charity No 307534 

EXPERIENCE SHUTTLEWORTH - EXPLORE OVER 60 ACRES! 

Take a relaxing walk around our Swiss Garden filled with pretty seasonal colour and two 

delightful peacocks. Wander along the woodland sculpture trail, around a lake home to nesting 

wildlife. Observe fantastic views of Shuttleworth House and scenic surrounding countryside 

from North Park’s gentle hills, before a stroll around the paddocks overlooking the grass 

airfield. Discover the Shuttleworth Collection, showcasing the best of early aviation, vintage 

vehicles and Clayton & Shuttleworth industrial heritage. 

FREE ENTRY FOR KIDS & MEMBERS. BOOK ADMISSION ONLINE AND RE-USE YOUR ADULT TICKETS MULTIPLE TIMES FOR UP TO A MONTH! 

WWW.SHUTTLEWORTH.ORG 

Shuttleworth, Old Warden, Bedfordshire, SG18 9DX. Entrance via Old Warden Village. 01767 627933 | enquiries@shuttleworth.org 

UNTIL 3 JANUARY 2021 

GP_MARCH_HALF—1.indd 1 19/02/2020 11:20

W H E R E W E ’ R E 

S P O T T I N G A R T ? 

Beacon Hill Woodwork 

A wizard’s head, a quirky frog sitting 

upright and a shepherd with his ram are 

among the 30-odd wooden sculptures 

and benches carved by Peter Leadbeater 

across Beacon Hill in Leicestershire. 

Meet the artist in his workshop in the 

country park. 

leicscountryparks.org.uk 

The Scallop 

Between Aldeburgh and Thorpeness 

pebbly beaches in Suffolk looms the 

four metre high Scallop, a stainless 

steel sculpture by local artist, Maggi 

Hambling. The two interlocking scallop 

shells commemorate the equally iconic 

composer, Benjamin Britten, who used 

to stroll along these shores. 

thesuffolkcoast.co.uk; 

visitsuffolk.com 

Grizedale Forest Sculptures 

Explore art in a fresh way – walking or 

cycling through Grizedale Forest in the 

Lake District. Over 70 intriguing works 

can be found. There’s a key fixed onto 

a tree which turns and plays music by 

Greyworld, say, as well as a baptism 

which also forms a waterfall by Alannah 

Robins. 

forestryengland.uk; 

grizedalesculpture.org 

The Folkestone Mermaid 

Overlooking Folkestone harbour sits 

Cornelia Parker’s bronze mermaid. 

Echoing Copenhagen’s fabled Little 

Mermaid, this British version was inspired 

by The Sea Lady novel by H. G. Wells 

who lived nearby. Delve into the town’s 

rich maritime and natural history at the 

nearby Folkestone Museum. 

creativefolkestone.org.uk 

IMAGES LEFT COLUMN: 

GRIZEDALE FOREST 

SCULPTURES 

THIS COLUMN, TOP-BOTTOM: 

MAGGI HAMBLING'S SHELL 

AT ALDEBURGH. COURTESY 

OF THE SUFFOLK COAST; 

CORNELIA PARKER, THE 

FOLKESTONE MERMAID 

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY 

OF THIERRY BAL: SCULPTURE 

CARVED BY PETER LEADBEATER 

ACROSS BEACON HILL IN 

LEICESTERSHIRE: PETER 

LEADBEATER SCULPTURER AT 

HIS WORKSHOP IS BASED AT 

BEACON HILL COUNTRY PARK 

IN LEICESTERSHIRE. 


PICTURED ABOVE: IRON BRIDGE; THE ROYAL PAVILION, HORSESHOE FALLS AND GARDENERS AND ORANGE TREE, OSBORNE HOUSE. BELOW: WROXETER ROMAN CITY AND DOVECOTE AT CUMBERNAULD GLEN 

IMAGES © ENGLISH HERITAGE/ © TRACY LAMBERT 

W H E R E W E ’ R E 

D I S C O V E R I N G ? 

Iron Bridge 

Spanning the River Severn, linking 

(once) industrial Broseley to the 

coal-mining town of Madeley in 

Shropshire is the world’s first cast-iron 

bridge – symbolising the industrial 

revolution’s birthplace. Erected in 

1779 with 378 tons of local iron, the 

single arch bridge was restored last 

year for £3.6 million. Explore its 

construction by Abraham Darby III in 

the nearby original tollhouse. 

english-heritage.org.uk 

Cumbernauld Glen 

A round 16th century dovecote that 

looks like Rapunzel’s castle, old tunnels 

and even older trees add mystique to 

Cumbernauld Glen, the rich wildlife 

reserve, north east of Glasgow. Whether 

cycling, hiking or on horseback – spot 

the vibrant kingfishers, badgers – and 

snowdrops in the new year. 

scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk 

A Prince’s Treasure is revealed at the 

Royal Pavilion 

A spectacular loan from Her Majesty 

The Queen, of art and furniture owned 

by George IV, is on display at the Royal 

Pavilion in Brighton this autumn. The 

items, which can be seen or the first time 

in 170 years, include majestic 15-foot high 

porcelain pagodas, exquisite Chinese 

nodding figurines and the impressive 

dragon fire fenders. 

brightonmuseums.org.uk/ 

royalpavilion/ 

Horseshoe Falls 

A feat of 1800s engineering, The 

Horseshoe (shaped) Falls on the River 

Dee in North Wales was designed by 

fabled British engineer, Thomas Telford, 

to channel water into the Llangollen 

canal. Travel there in style. Either by 

vintage horse-drawn boat or by steam 

engine to Berwyn Station with its 

Victorian waiting room, stationmaster’s 

house and more. 

pontcysyllte-aqueduct.co.uk/ 

attraction/horseshoe-falls 


W H E R E W E ’ R E F I N D I N G N E W 

L I F E ? 

PICTURED BELOW: OSBORNE HOUSE; THE LEECHWELL 

Petersham Nurseries in Richmond 

A stone’s throw from Richmond Park is Petersham 

Nurseries with eateries serving posh nosh like 

chargrilled lobster alongside plants, climbers, 

trees or trowels. Look out for amaryllis with their 

huge vibrant blooms, say, or the multi-coloured 

Crocosmia Emily McKenzie. Or handmade wreaths 

for the festive season. 

petershamnurseries.com 

Osborne House and Gardens 

Whilst the next season of Victoria is 

on TV ice, experience the real queen’s 

lifestyle at Osborne House, her holiday 

home on the Isle of Wight. Alongside 

the home and gardens, designed by 

Prince Albert, explore the family’s 

private beach. For a wider regal visit on 

East Cowes, there’s Carisbrooke Castle 

where Charles I was imprisoned or the 

Romanov monument, dedicated to the 

murdered family. 

english-heritage.org.uk 

The Leechwell 

Amongst the narrow lanes of Totnes 

in South Devon is a slice of medieval 

life: a 13th century healing well, The 

Leechwell. The sunken stone and slate 

structure with its three troughs of water 

were believed to cure snake-bites, skin 

diseases and more. Today, it’s a draw for 

meditation and offerings with the water 

flowing into Leechwell Garden nearby. 

leechwellgarden.org; 

visittotnes.co.uk 

Worton Kitchen Garden 

Home grown organic produce from its greenhouse, 

garden, orchard or beehives is the hallmark of 

Worton Kitchen Garden, the shop and cafe at 

Worton Farm in Oxfordshire. Own brand products 

are tasty surprises including quince meat for festive 

mince pies – and ketchup. 

wortonkitchengarden.com 

Special Plants 

For the most unusual foliage finds, head to 

Chippenham in Wiltshire for Special Plants. 

There’s an edible Sunset Hibiscius with primrose 

petals, say, or for winter bloom, a rare fragrant pink 

shrub, Daphne Bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’. On a 

Wednesday, explore the garden for design tips. 

specialplants.net 

Jekka’s 

Over 400 herbs can be found at Jekka’s farm in 

Bristol, where the herbetum houses diverse edible 

and medicinal species with seeds, plants or kits sold 

in the shop. There’s more to each herb than first 

glance – like the bright orange Lion’s Tail with its 

sting-treating roots. (Pre-books for groups needed 

this season.) 

jekkas.com 


W H A T W E ’ R E 

L I S T E N I N G T O ? 

Album No 8 by Katie Melua 

16 OCTOBER 2020 

A cosy Cotswolds cottage is where Katie 

Melua wrote tracks for her new folky 

Album No 8 – including A Love Like 

That. Her bell-like voice soars above the 

rich arrangements from Tbilisi’s Georgian 

Philharmonic Orchestra. Top track: the 

rhythmic Voices In The Night. 

katiemelua.com 

W H E R E W E ' R E 

S H O P P I N G 

Browns Flagship store in Mayfair 

Having discovered Alexander McQueen 

and John Galliano, Browns fashion 

boutique is renowned for spotting the 

next fashion star. Now the store is moving 

to a four storey house along Mayfair’s 

Brook Street where new neighbours 

include Claridge’s Hotel and music 

museum, Handel & Hendrix in London. 

brownsfashion.com 

W H A T W E ’ R E 

R E A D I N G ? 

Bird’s Eye London 

15 OCTOBER 2020 

More than 150 stunning aerial images 

by photographer, Paul Campbell, who 

describes his book as a labour 

of love, offer a totally fresh perspective 

on some of London’s most famous landmarks, 

as well as corners of the capital 

that are hidden from the usual street level 

view - such as in the Rooftop Secrets section. 

graffeg.com 

W H A T W E ' R E 

S U B S C R I B I N G T O ? 

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The UK’s first ‘coffee club experience’ style 

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beanscoffeeclub.com 

Jo Jo's Face Masks 

Face masks and coverings seem to be here to stay, 

so to ensure we're prepared, whether it's a trip to the 

shops or our next staycation, we're subscribing to 

these specially designed breathable and washable face 

coverings from the UK’s first face mask subscription 

service by Essex-based company, Jo Jo Creative 

Designs’. Joanna Spilman, co-founder of Jo Jo Creative 

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By having a subscription delivered to your door, we are 

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the rules at the same time.” 

jojocreativedesigns.co.uk 


ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS 

Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned 

Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday 

destinations around the world, ski resorts in the 

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Priced at £395 each. 

Private commissions are also welcome. 

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94 Pimlico Road 

Chelsea 

London SW1W 8PL 

www.pullmaneditions.com 

Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 

info@pullmaneditions.com 

Our central London gallery 

All images and text copyright © Pullman Editions Ltd. 2020 

View and buy online at www.pullmaneditions.com

WILD 

WALES 


To the west of England 

lies a Celtic principality 

that has been attracting 

English tourists for 

centuries. 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

à 



THERE IS AN OLD 

SAYING that if the steep 

hills and deep valleys 

of Wild Wales were 

smoothed out, England’s western 

neighbour would actually be the 

bigger country. Wales used to be 

considered a dangerous place 

full of mountains and precipices, 

deluged with rain and populated 

by superstitious druids who spoke 

a strange language. Then in the 

eighteenth century, the English 

found it was no longer safe to travel 

to revolutionary Europe in search of 

inspiring landscapes. 

So Wales became popular with 

poets and artists, clutching their 

notebooks and phrasebooks. 

Once the railways arrived in the 

nineteenth century, Wales became 

a place for affordable holidays, 

with the Welsh coastline turning 

into a string of pretty Victorian 

seaside resorts. 

Today Wales remains another 

country to be discovered just across 

the English border and the perfect 

place for a UK staycation. Here 

are ten of its top attractions. 

à 


BEST MOUNTAIN 

SNOWDON 

Although there are hills everywhere you look in Wales there 

aren’t that many mountains. Snowdon, the tallest at 3,560 feet is 

the most popular because it has a mountain railway that will take 

you to the top if you’re not up to the 5 to 7-hour ascent. There are 

more dramatic ranges – the Brecon Beacons (which are just under 

3,000 feet) form a four-mountain horseshoe that resemble the 

Drakensbergs in South Africa. But Snowdon dominates in terms 

of visitor numbers. Moreover the view from the top – Ireland on a 

clear day - is unmissable. The team that conquered Mount Everest 

in 1953 trained on Snowdon and stayed at the Pen Y Gwryd Hotel 

nearby. Today the hotel has a room filled with Edmund Hilary 

and Tenzing Norgay memorabilia. 

snowdonrailway.co.uk 

BEST GARDENS 

POWIS CASTLE 

Both Chirk Castle and Plas Newydd in North Wales have splendidly 

cultivated gardens but the stately formal gardens of Powis Castle near 

Welshpool are unique in Wales. Using terraces and perfectly clipped 

hedges, Powis Castle presents a hanging garden in classic French 

baroque style. There was originally a Dutch water garden too, but that 

was converted into the Great Lawn in the early nineteenth century. 

Although Powis Castle itself is full of treasures – some bequeathed to 

Lord Powis by Clive of India whose son married into the Powis family 

– it is these rare gardens and the surrounding deer park that make the 

castle essential viewing. The Bothy, an Edwardian cottage within the 

grounds is now a National Trust holiday cottage meaning you can have 

the gardens to yourself after all the visitors go home. 

nationaltrust.org.uk/powis-castle 


BEST MUSIC 

WELSH NATIONAL OPERA 

Welsh National Opera, based in Cardiff 

operates out of the Wales Millennium Centre, 

a dramatic modern building that dominates 

Cardiff Bay. WNO was started 75 years ago 

and has since developed a splendid choir and an 

expertise in the Italian and Russian repertoire. 

The company almost always open their new 

productions in the Millennium Centre and then 

tour them round Wales and into various venues 

in England. WNO has also toured to La Scala, 

to Paris and Tokyo. At the Metropolitan Opera in 

New York City, the New York Times called it "one 

of the finest operatic ensembles in Europe". The 

company has had a long relationship with Bryn 

Terfel who refused all offers to sing Hans Sachs 

in Die Meistersinger until he had debuted the role 

with WNO in their new Cardiff home in 2010. 

wno.org.uk 



BEST WATERFALL 

SWALLOW FALLS 

Wales has lots of rivers and plenty of rain to 

feed them, so it’s not surprising there are many 

impressive waterfalls. Pistyll Rhaeadr in the Berwen 

Mountains is 240 feet high, making it Britain’s 

highest single-drop waterfall. 

In Snowdonia there are a number of dramatic 

plunges in the rush down towards the sea and one 

of the most popular is Swallow Falls. Here the River 

Llugwy drops 138 feet in white torrents cascading 

over limestone rocks. So popular was the waterfall 

in the nineteenth century that a Swallow Falls Hotel 

was built alongside it to cater for visitors. Nearby 

on the River Llugwy stands Waterloo Bridge at 

Betws y Coed. Its plaque announces that it was 

built by the great engineer Thomas Telford to 

celebrate Wellington’s victory over Napoleon. 

visitsnowdonia.info/swallow-falls

BEST CASTLE 

CARDIFF 

Wales has many, many castles. Most of them were built by English 

kings to stop the Welsh declaring independence, which they tended to 

do whenever the Plantagenets were looking the other way. Nowadays 

these strongholds are impressive tourist attractions. Caernarvon is 

where Prince Charles was installed as Prince of Wales and Beaumaris 

Castle is a perfect example of turreted medieval defences, but 

Cardiff Castle is the one to visit. Begun by the Romans, remodelled 

by the Normans and Tudors, Cardiff Castle was transformed into a 

palace in the nineteenth century for the 3rd Marquis of Bute. Bute 

commissioned the eccentric architect William Burges to spare no 

expense in reconstructing the castle so the marquis could live in a 

medieval world divorced from grubby Victorian reality. The exterior is 

impressive, like a Welsh Neuschwanstein, and the interior exquisite. 

cardiffcastle.com 

BEST SEASIDE 

BARMOUTH 

Wales can offer some dramatic seascapes, like Harlech perched 

on a rock above a huge wilderness of sand dunes, or Rhossili with its great 

stretches of surfing beach but for a touch of Victorian seaside resort it’s 

hard to beat Barmouth. Developed because of a quick train connection 

back to Birmingham, Wolverhampton and other parts of England’s Black 

Country, Barmouth retains its nineteenth-century slate boarding houses and 

colourful shopfronts facing a sandy beach. Look closer however and there 

are remnants of the port when it was a mediaeval centre of fishing and shipbuilding. 

T Gwyn is an old tower house on the quayside that is now a pub, 

and T Crwn a roundhouse prison with a cell on one side for men and another 

for women on the other. The poet William Wordsworth, a visitor to Barmouth 

in the 19th century, wrote glowingly "With a fine sea view in front [and] the 

mountains behind Barmouth can always hold its own against any rival.” 

barmouth-wales.co.uk 


BEST FESTIVAL 

HAY ON WYE 

Wales has its own National Eisteddfod, the largest 

festival of competitive music and poetry in Europe staged 

predominantly in the Welsh language, but the best-known 

festival in Wales these days is the Hay Festival of Literature 

& Arts. This takes place in Hay-on-Wye close to the 

Herefordshire border and was famously described by Bill 

Clinton as “The Woodstock of the Mind”. Hay regularly 

attracts the biggest names in writing worldwide: Arthur 

Miller, Mario Vargas Llosa, Salman Rushdie, Martin Amis, 

Hilary Mantel. The festival has taken on responsibility 

for the nearby Brecon Jazz Festival to provide a musical 

element. It’s also spawned a dozen sister festivals around 

the world from Beirut to Cartagena in Colombia. The town 

of Hay, with its castle and over 30 second-hand book shops, 

is worth visiting even when the festival isn’t running. 

hayfestival.com 

〰 

BEST TOWN 

CONWY 

There are some lovely, unspoilt towns in Wales. 

Montgomery in Powis looks unchanged since the 

eighteenth century, Monmouth named Agincourt Square 

after its most famous son, King Henry V, and Machynlleth 

contains the building where the rebel, Owain Glyndwr 

set up a Welsh Parliament in 1404. Nevertheless Conwy 

stands out. It’s a small, cozy settlement on a North Walian 

estuary. This garrison town was built by Edward I and 

today it has an almost complete set of thirteenth-century 

walls. You can walk the three quarter mile circuit of 

ramparts with its 21 towers or stroll along the quayside, 

visit the smallest house in Britain (just 10 feet tall) or call 

in to drink at one of the many old pubs like the Victorian 

Erskine Arms or the 1920s Albion Ale House. 

visitconwy.org.uk 


BEST NATURE RESERVE 

RSPB LAKE VYRNWY 

Developed in the 1880s as a reservoir to fulfil 

Liverpool’s water needs, Lake Vyrnwy in Powys, is 

an RSPB Nature Reserve with an award-winning 

sculpture trail to boot. Mixing nature with heritage 

and history in the middle of the Mid-Wales 

countryside, the reserve has something to keep 

those of all ages entertained. Birdlife can be spotted 

around the waters all year round, although keen birdwatchers 

should look out for autumn arrivals including 

mallards, oystercatchers and teals, alongside otters 

and other rare wildlife. Dotted along the shores of the 

lake, the sculpture trail features wooden works by a 

diverse mix of local and international artists, including 

Simon O’Rourke’s The Giant Hand of Vyrnwy, a 

15-metre-high carving made from what was once the 

tallest tree in Wales! Lake Vyrnwy is free to visit and 

does not need to be booked in advance. 

rspb.org.uk 

Different locations and attractions across 

Britain have various measures in place to enable 

guests to explore with confidence. Visitors are 

encouraged to look at the official websites prior to 

travel for the latest information. 


THE BEST UK 

RAIL 

TRAILS 

Walk or cycle along a former railway line 

Words | Adrienne Wyper 


TAKING TO A former railway line trail makes for 

an easy-to-follow route that’s easy on the legs, 

whether you’re walking or cycling. That’s because 

you can rely on ‘rail trails’ to be reasonably level 

(as trains struggle with steep gradients) with no stiles to 

negotiate, which makes it possible to walk the dog or push 

a pram. They’re well marked, and dotted alongside are 

cycle-hire centres, pubs, cafés, picnic areas and artworks. 

You’ll see traces of the stations they used to serve along the 

way – like platforms, signal-boxes and ancient rolling stock – 

as you go along, over and through embankments, cuttings, 

viaducts, bridges and tunnels. There are over 100 ‘rail trails’ 

in the UK, stretching for over 10,000 miles, and some of 

them are dauntingly lengthy – but you don’t have to take on 

the challenge of completing an entire route from end to end; 

you can opt for a shorter section. Here’s six of the best… 

〰 

à 

à 



WATER RAIL WAY, 

LINCOLNSHIRE 

Based on the former Lincoln to 

Boston Railway Line, the path 

follows the river Witham 

through the marshy Fens with their dykes 

and drainage channels. The full route is 33 

miles, with around nine on quiet roads. 

Its apt name, which won a competition, 

comes from the elusive water rail bird. 

Expect wide skies and expansive views, 

particularly from the specially designed 

viewing platforms which offer impressive 

vistas across the wide-open flat fens or 

towards Lincoln Cathedral’s square spires. 

As well as several former station 

buildings, at Southrey and Stixwould, even 

the cast-iron station signs can be seen on 

still-standing platforms. A highlight is the 

imaginative sculpture trail along the way, 

featuring works based on local sheep, 

cow and pig breeds, or inspired by the 

surrounding environment, all themed on 

local poet Alfred Lord Tennyson’s quote: ‘I 

am part of all that I have met’. 

visitlincoln.com/things-to-do/ 

water-rail-way 

CRAB AND WINKLE 

WAY, KENT 

Linking the cathedral city of 

Canterbury to the arty seaside 

town of Whitstable, the sevenand-a-half-mile 

route follows the world’s 

first passenger railway line, which opened 

in 1830. As well as people, it carried 

seafood inland, hence the line’s nickname. 

Mainly flat, the trail passes through 

a university campus, open fields and 

the ancient woodlands of Blean Woods 

nature reserve, before bringing you 

through Whitstable’s back streets onto 

the shingly shore and the town’s bustling 

harbour, with its fishing fleet and artisan 

makers’ market stalls – and the chance 

to sample seafood such as Whitstable’s 

famous native oysters. 

explorekent.org/crab-and-winkle-way 

〰 

〰 


MAWDDACH 

TRAIL, GWYNEDD 

Acclaimed as one of the 

best walks in Wales, this is a 

favourite of former Ramblers 

president Julia Bradbury. Start the nineand-a-half-mile 

route on a tree-lined trail 

from the stone-built town of Dolgellau, 

set beneath Cadr Idris in Snowdonia 

National Park. As the path itself is flat, it’s 

a relaxing way to admire the decidedly 

hilly scenery all around. At Penmaenpool 

by an original wooden toll bridge, a signal 

box is now a bird hide, and signals still 

stand beside the former tracks. Stop off 

for refreshments in the former station, 

now the George III pub. The river, and its 

valley, widens out and laps at the stonebuilt 

embankment of the trackbed. Finally, 

cross the half-mile railway bridge that 

spans the estuary, where Cambrian Coast 

line trains still run, into the sandy seaside 

resort of Barmouth. 

mawddachtrail.co.uk 

HIGH PEAK TRAIL, 

DERBYSHIRE 

Completed in 1830, the 

Cromford and High Peak 

Railway was one of the world’s 

first, built to transport minerals 

between two canals. Nowadays, the 

17-mile route runs between Dowlow, 

south of Buxton to High Peak Junction, 

Cromford, linking in with a whole network 

of converted railway lines. 

Set in the stunning scenery of the 

Derbyshire Dales, with trackside drystone 

walls and rocky outcrops, it has 

unusually steep sections, where wagons 

were pulled up by steam-powered beam 

engines using cables. (The official advice 

today is not to cycle down these sections!) 

High by name and high by nature (up to 

1,266 feet), the path’s elevation above 

sea level makes for wild and windswept 

views over the limestone landscape of the 

Peak District, particularly at the northern 

end. The southern end is rich in relics of 

this industrial heritage, including engine 

houses (Middleton Top engine house is 

open to the public), rusting machinery, 

pulley wheels, remains of winch houses, 

and old wagons. 

letsgopeakdistrict.co.uk/the-highpeak-trail/ 

〰 

〰 




TWO TUNNELS 

GREENWAY, 

SOMERSET 

Follow the former Somerset 

and Dorset Railway through 

city, country and canalside settings on this 

13-mile circular route. Take in superb views 

of Bath’s curving Georgian crescents, 

before plunging beneath the city through 

the Devonshire Tunnel, just a quarter 

of a mile long. Next is Combe Down, 

the longest cycling tunnel in Europe, at 

just over a mile, with a subterranean 

son-et-lumière show. Beyond is Midford 

Castle, an 18th-century folly (owned 

by actor Nicolas Cage for a couple of 

years). After the pretty village of Monkton 

Combe comes the towpath of the narrow 

Somerset Coal Canal, joining the Kennet 

& Avon Canal at the imposing Dundas 

Aqueduct, now a Scheduled Ancient 

Monument, dizzyingly high above the 

river Avon. Back in Bath, the Greenway 

passes through the heart of the city, over 

Pulteney Bridge and beside the Avon back 

to the start. Find out more: 

twotunnels.org.uk 

SPEYSIDE WAY, 

HIGHLANDS AND 

MORAYSHIRE 

Skirting the Cairngorm mountain 

range, home to five of the UK’s six 

highest peaks, the Way runs for 65 miles from 

the winter sports hotspot of Aviemore to the 

coastal town of Buckie. Its route runs alongside 

the river Spey, a favourite haunt of salmon – 

and tweed-clad anglers – following the track 

of the former great North of Scotland Railway 

between Boat of Garten and Dufftown, which 

was primarily used for transporting whisky 

from the distilleries beside the river, many of 

which are open for tasting tours. For real rail 

enthusiasts, there’s an opportunity to do a 

round trip with a steam train on the Strathspey 

Railway, between Aviemore and Broomhill. 

Find out more: 

speysideway.org 

〰 

〰 


Discovering Nature 

SUSTAINABLE 

TRAVEL 

Spend your next trip marvelling at 

the richness of our native flora and 

fauna – and help to ensure that our 

spectacular scenery and wildlife are 

maintained for future generations 

BELOW: RED SQUIRREL. RIGHT: ROE BUCK 

Words | Helen Holmes 

THE BRITISH ISLES contain a huge 

range of natural habitats, from ancient 

pine forests, to tiny islands with their 

own unique ecosystems. An incredible 

variety of plants and animals make their home 

here with us – so you don’t have to travel far at all 

to see something new and amazing. 

Sadly, many of these ecosystems have been 

under threat, thanks largely to human activities. 

However, a handful of small companies are 

both giving people an opportunity to explore 

Britain’s native wildlife, and working with local 

conservators to ensure that they preserve existing 

habitats, and regain some that have been lost. 

Taking time out to learn more about the 

fascinating plants and animals that share our 

islands is rewarding in itself, but it also means 

coming home with a renewed enthusiasm for 

living sustainably, so that we can continue to coexist 

with so many amazing species. 

AUTUMN IN THE 

CAIRNGORMS 

“In autumn the colours of the landscape light up. 

It’s not just the trees, but the moorland grasses 

too – the whole landscape just glows. The fungi 

are fascinating and the changing smells of the 

vegetation bring a particular atmosphere to being 

in the forests at this time of year. The sounds of 

the returning geese and the mass movement of 

thousands of other birds, some journeying many 

thousands of miles, make you feel really connected 

to the whole process of seasonal change and that 

wonderful mystery of migration.” 


CRESTED TIT 

Sally Nowell has been guiding trips in 

the Cairngorms for four years, and has 

lived in this beautiful part of the Scottish 

Highlands for 27 years. Each year she 

shares this magical season with a small 

group of guests, who are here to catch the 

first call of the whooper swans returning 

from their summer breeding grounds, and 

the frantic feeding of winter thrushes, 

against the backdrop of huge swathes 

of vibrant autumn-hued woodland, and 

breathtaking mountain ranges. The red 

deer rut is a highlight of the trip – you 

might hear the sound of stags proclaiming 

their territory with roars that echo around 

the glen, or hear the clash of antlers in the 

steep-sided glacial valleys. 

The Cairngorms are also home to some 

of the largest remaining tracts of ancient 

Caledonian pine forest, and contain a 

multitude of wildlife that depends on this 

unique habitat – the crested tit, Scottish 

crossbill and red squirrel, to name a few. 

And the flora is as distinctive as the fauna, 

with many orchid species to be found in 

the forest, as well as the rare twinflower. 

“I love witnessing the turning of the 

seasons and the changing of the guard, 

as our summer visitors gather to leave and 

the winter visitors arrive,” says Sally. “The 

deciduous forests change from vibrant 

green to rich rust reds and the glowing 

yellow of the aspens. The colours can be 

outstanding and the autumn light and 

shade provides a feast for the eyes.” 

The Autumn in the Cairngorms trip is 

available from Speyside Wildlife, who are 

supporting RSPB Abernethy in their work 

to extend the Caledonian pine forest, and 

have also received a Gold Green Tourism 

Award for their sustainable business 

practices. speysidewildlife.co.uk 

à 


SKOMER’S 

PERFECT PUFFINS 

The island of Skomer lies just off the 

Pembrokeshire coast and covers less 

than three square kilometres – however, 

it is home to Atlantic Puffins, as well as 

the world’s largest population of Manx 

shearwater. “Skomer is a wildlife lover’s 

dream,” says Bret Charman, who has 

led puffin-watching tours to the island 

for the past four years. “Our dedicated 

photography tours are timed to coincide 

with the peak of the puffin nesting 

season, when the birds spend more 

time on land. There is also an endemic 

species of vole found on the island – this 

is the only place on the planet it exists. 

And there are nesting short-eared owls, 

and countless other seabird species 

including guillemot, razorbill and 

fulmar, as well as grey seals.” 

It’s possible to take a day trip to 

the island, but to see everything that 

Skomer has to offer, you need to be one 

of a handful of people staying the night. 

The simple accommodation on offer is 

more than compensated by the riches 

of the wildlife. This is the only way that 

you will get to see the Manx shearwater, 

which return to the island under the 

cover of darkness to feed and care for 

their chicks – and create an eerie, but 

magical cacophony as they arrive. 

“To be one of only 16 visitors staying 

on the island overnight, it feels like you 

have your own slice of puffin paradise,” 

says Bret. “By staying overnight you 

get the best puffin encounters and 

the best photography opportunities. 

Nothing beats being surrounded 

by thousands of puffins on a warm 

summer’s evening. Staying on the 

island allows you to escape the hustle 

and bustle of the 21st century, put 

technology to one side and immerse 

yourself in the natural world”. 

Skomer’s Perfect Puffins is run by 

Wildlife Worldwide, and the island 

itself is managed by The Wildlife 

Trust of South and West Wales, so 

money from the tours goes back in 

to the trust’s conservation efforts. 

wildlifeworldwide.com 

ATLANTIC PUFFIN WITH FISH 

ABOVE: SHORT-EARED OWL. BELOW: SKOMER SUNRISE AND A SKOMER VOLE . ALL PHOTOS BY BRET CHARMAN 


YORKSHIRE 

WINTER BIRDING 

You might think of spring or summer 

as the time to go bird watching, but 

winter offers unique opportunities 

– both in terms of the species you 

might see, and the ease of spotting 

them. “There’s, surprisingly, a lot to 

see in winter,” says Richard Baines, 

who runs winter birding and wildlife 

photography trips in East and North 

Yorkshire. “Everywhere is much 

quieter, and less human disturbance 

means more birds.” 

Guests on the trip stay at 

comfortable Highfield Farm, and 

from this base explore a huge range 

of landscapes, from the towering sea 

cliffs of Flamborough to the wetlands 

BELOW: WAXWING 

of Top Hill Low nature reserve. 

A short drive away, Hornsea 

Mere is Yorkshire’s largest 

freshwater lake, and is one of the 

best places in the county to see 

winter wildfowl, from Slavonian 

grebe to goldeneye. Some of 

Richard’s favourite spots on the 

winter trip over the past couple 

of years include waxwings and 

kingfishers. 

The Yorkshire winter birding 

and photography trip is run by 

Yorkshire Coast Nature, who have 

set up partnerships with nature 

conservation organizations, 

including the RSPB and the North 

Sea Wildlife Trust, to ensure 

that their organisation benefits 

wildlife and local communities. 

yorkshirecoastnature.co.uk 

ABOVE: EARLY MARSH ORCHIDS. BELOW: RED-NECKED PHALAROPE 

OUTER HEBRIDES: 

MAGICAL WILDLIFE 

SPECTACULAR 

This seven-night tour of the Outer 

Hebrides takes in multiple islands 

and offers the opportunity to see a 

huge diversity of wildlife in this remote 

region. David Rosair has been running 

the tours for over twenty years. “I love 

the remoteness, the wildness, the 

romanticism, the special wildlife – from 

hen harriers to short-eared owls, golden 

and white-tailed eagles, red-necked 

phalaropes and corncrakes, otters, 

and the famous machair, covered with 

orchids, knapweed, wild pansies and 

buttercups – it's fabulous!” 

Accommodation on the trip is very 

comfortable, with hotels providing 

excellent local food – and having been 

hand-picked for their environmental 

credentials. As well as unrivalled naturespotting 

opportunities, guests can look 

forward to stunning scenery, deserted 

beaches, and the fabulous sunsets 

beyond the western shores of Benbecula. 

The Magical Wildlife Spectacular is run 

by Island Ventures. islandventures.co.uk 


BRITAIN’S BEST 

PANORAMAS 

From West Country tors, Scottish mountain summits 

to elevated city views, feel on top of the world with our 

selection of Britain’s most awesome panoramas. 

Words | Max Wooldridge 


ZIP WORLD 

WALES AND 

LIVERPOOL 

See Liverpool like never before when the UK’s first 

urban zipwire opens in summer 2021. This fun new 

400m aerial wire will run from the top of St John's 

Beacon over St George's Place, St John's Gardens and 

William Brown Street before touchdown on the roof of 

Liverpool Central Library. If you can’t wait until next 

summer to fly, Zip World already operates at three 

sites in North Wales - including Penrhyn Slate Quarry 

(as pictured) - the fastest zip line in the world and the 

longest in Europe! zipworld.co.uk 


GLASTONBURY TOR 

SOMERSET 

Rising 158m above the Somerset Levels, this 

conical hill offers a visual feast, especially come 

sunrise or sunset. From St Michael’s Tower at the 

top you can often see the Quantock and Mendip 

Hills, even the Welsh mountains. A place of 

pagan beliefs, and steeped in Arthurian legend, 

it’s one of England’s most spiritual sites.

PEN Y FAN 

WALES 

Some of the best walks often 

include a worthwhile bounty en 

route. Head to Pen Y Fan – part 

of the Beacons Way footpath - for 

marvellous views of the Brecon 

Beacons National Park. On a 

clear day you’ll also be rewarded 

breathtaking panorama of the 

Cambrian Mountains, the Gower 

Peninsula and Carmarthen Bay. 

At 886 metres, this is the highest 

peak in South Wales. 

ARTHUR’S 

SEAT 

EDINBURGH 

There are few more iconic 

views in Scotland than from 

Arthur’s Seat, the ancient extinct 

volcano perched 251m above the 

Scottish capital. This panoramic 

landscape of Edinburgh and 

beyond are great all year round 

but particularly magical during 

the city’s Hogmanay New Year 

celebrations and fireworks 

display. 


GREENWICH PARK LONDON 

Even North Londoners head south of the river for the best view of the capital. 

Atop a steep hill beside the Royal Observatory centuries of London’s past, and 

present, is laid out like a picnic. There’s Greenwich’s Old Royal Naval College 

and the famous curve in the Thames, then Canary Wharf, the City of London 

and St. Paul's Cathedral. Nearby Nunhead cemetery offers another magical 

city view that few Londoners know about. 

LEITH HILL 

SURREY 

Enjoy great views from the 

loftiest point in South East 

England at Leith Hill, a few 

miles southwest of Dorking. 

The London skyline, over 10 

different counties and the 

English Channel are all visible 

on a clear day. An 18thcentury 

Gothic tower crowns 

this Surrey Hills peak, and 

there’s excellent walking and 

cycling routes, with several 

different ways to reach the 

294m summit. 


BEALACH NA B À 

SCOTTISH 

HIGHLANDS 

Breathtaking panoramas and an exhilarating 

mountain drive await you at the top of this Alpinelike 

mountain pass in Wester Ross, in the Scottish 

Highlands. Once a drovers' road, Bealach na Bà 

(the Pass of the Cattle) rises to 626m, and with 

sharp hairpin bends and gradients of nearly 20%, 

welcome to the UK’s steepest road ascent. On clear 

days get set for an awesome horizon of the Cuillin 

Ridge on the Isle of Skye, and the Western Isles. 


I N T E R V I E W W I T H 

LUKE 

MATTHEWS 

Chewton Glen 

Five-star Chewton Glen has stood the test of time with 

aplomb, here its Executive Head Chef reveals the secret to 

its timeless elegance and tremendous new offerings 

Words | Chantal Borciani 


NOW MORE THAN ever travellers are looking 

for a safe haven where they can spend time 

with their nearest and dearest in reassuring 

comfort. Chewton Glen is just this type of 

sanctuary – one of the first iconic British countryside 

hotels, the five-star Hampshire residence is only a few 

minutes’ walk from the sea and features an awardwinning 

restaurant, world-class spa, nine-hole golf 

course, croquet lawn, tennis courts, walled gardens, 

orchard, a cookery school, and 72 individually designed 

bedrooms and suites including 14 tree-house suites 

nestled in the canopy of the woodland grounds. 

REINVENTING A CLASSIC 

Country chic blended with a charming quintessential 

Britishness, Chewton welcomes guests with the 

cocooning warmth of an old friend. Just the ticket then 

for a holiday in these somewhat testing times. 

Like Chewton’s many patrons who return year upon 

year Executive Head Chef Luke Matthews has been 

similarly charmed by Chewton Glen – with 2021 marking 

his 28th year at the hotel. 

“We really push the envelope here; the goal posts 

are always moving and that drives me and has kept me 

here for all these years. It's a beautiful hotel; fabulous 

grounds, lovely spa - we're a proper resort destination. 

We want people to feel relaxed the minute they à 


arrive and I think every part of Chewton 

complements the other. The tree houses are 

incredible [the hotel is one of the first in the 

UK to offer treetop luxury suites complete 

with hot tubs overlooking lush woodland] and 

we've got the new restaurant and cookery 

school which again, is a fantastic addition,” 

says Luke. 

Inspired by his mother’s home cooking 

from an early age, at 16 Luke started an 

apprenticeship in The Green Park Hotel, 

Bournemouth, before moving to the Dormy 

Hotel at Ferndown, and later completed work 

experience at Chewton Glen. 

Recalling his stint of work experience, Luke 

says: “I just remember thinking, ‘this place 

is on another level’. It was ground-breaking, 

Chewton really was one of the first luxury spa 

hotels in the UK,” Luke adds. 

In 1993, Luke joined Chewton as sous 

chef and rose through the ranks until in 

November 2003, he was appointed Executive 

Head Chef. Winning England’s AA Hotel 

of the Year in 2019, Chewton’s dining is a 

key part of its allure. Guests can dine at the 

elegant Dining Room overlooking the hotel’s 

immaculate grounds and croquet lawn, 

and The Kitchen; a more informal, relaxed 

restaurant that also boasts a fabulous new 

cookery school and open kitchen. There are 

also a host of private dining options for more 

intimate feasts. 


NEW-AGE NEW FOREST 

In today’s changing world, Luke and his brigade have 

been able to adapt easily to guests’ needs. “We’ve 

got a lot of space at Chewton in the two main hotel 

restaurants and we run long opening hours for the 

restaurant, so there hasn’t been a problem looking after 

everyone. What we are finding is that guests are tending 

to stay for a week rather than just a few days and dine 

with us almost the entire time. I think when they arrive 

here they feel secure and can really relax. It’s brilliant as 

every day the restaurant is buzzing.” 

While times have changed, it’s comforting to see 

that many things at Chewton remain reassuringly 

untouched. 

“I think for us the key is to cook great food with good 

ingredients and to cook what our guests want to eat. 

We tweak the menu seasonally to make the most of 

the new season produce but we don’t do a complete 

menu change because there are a lot of dishes that 

have become absolute Chewton Glen classics. We do a 

twice-baked Emmental soufflé starter, which has been 

on the menu for decades. Over the last 20 years we’ve 

probably taken it off two or three times and when we 

do the letters start to roll in from diners asking where it’s 

gone. So, we’ve made a pact; the soufflé will never move 

again!” 

Another of Chewton’s iconic dishes, the lobster curry, 

makes it on to Luke’s desert island dish menu, alongside 

his dressed crab starter and “something chocolatey for 

dessert”. 

Luke’s recent projects include working with Estate 

Manager Darren Venables to develop a thriving walled 

kitchen garden, nursery and heritage orchard, which 

produces a vast array of ingredients for the hotels’ own 

kitchens. 

In addition to harvesting produce on-site, the 

New Forest hotel uses local and British suppliers 

wherever possible. “Especially after the Covid crisis, 

we need to support local suppliers as much as we 

can.” This includes sourcing their eggs from a farmer 

in neighbouring Hordle who “hand picks every one for 

us”, grabbing the best daily catch from a fishmonger in 

Bournemouth and using mozzarella from Hampshire’s 

Laverstoke Park. 

The most recent addition to Chewton’s culinary 

offering is The Kitchen, a relaxed restaurant concept 

which has opened in association with TV chef James 

Martin. “I've known James for 27 years, we worked 

together here in the very early days, he on pastry, me as 

sous chef. He’s returned for charity dinners and other 

events at Chewton over the years so it was an easy 

partnership and a great synergy. The cookery school has 

been a great success and is such a wonderful space.” 

SPA SECRETS 

During summer 2020, the new-look spa was also 

unveiled featuring a refreshed interior, and a cool, 

calming palette to complement the 17-metre indoor 

pool. In addition to the revamped space, Chewton’s new 

spa treatment menu includes two alfresco treehouse 

treatments. 

Next to the indoor pool, guests can enjoy the 

hydrotherapy spa, which centres around the ancient 

tradition of water therapy and offers six hi-tech therapy 

options including an ‘air-tub’, which provides an all-over 

bubbly Jacuzzi-like effect. 

Double height floor to ceiling windows drench the 

pool area with light and the domed hydrotherapy spa 

also overlooks the stunning grounds. An outdoor hot 

tub is cocooned away on a private deck for ultimate 

relaxation, while the spa’s flower-clad balcony deck 

provides a perfect spot for an afternoon siesta. Loungers 

dot the undulating lawns in the summer, with views to 

a horizon of trees, and every wall, trellis and border is 

blessed with a festoon of seasonal blooms year round. 

COUNTRY ICON 

He’s actually closing in on his fourth decade there as 

he’s on his 28th year. The charm of this hotel shows no 

sign of abating for Luke: “I am thrilled and extremely 

fortunate to have had the opportunity to be at the helm 

of the kitchen brigade at Chewton Glen. To have cooked 

for royalty, movie stars, sporting heroes and remarkable 

public figures has been an incredible experience and 

I genuinely feel very proud to be part of the history of 

this great hotel, which has for well over 50 years been 

delighting guests with its tradition of excellent service 

and world-class hospitality.” u 



Meet the Makers 

ISLE OF 

ARRAN GIN 

There’s a growing artisanal 

movement on Scotland’s Isle of 

Arran, and now it has its first 

craft gin. From a cosy lounge 

by the crackling fire at Cladach 

Beach House, we meet the 

locals behind the brand 

Words | Karyn Noble 

Asmall island off the southwest coast 

of Scotland, Arran is accessed via the 

daily car ferry from the mainland; the 

occasionally-snow-capped Goat Fell, 

its highest mountain, looming dramatically into 

view. It’s a trip that takes just under an hour from 

Ardrossan, wild weather pending, but the island’s 

peaceful charm is immediate. Popular with hikers 

and cyclists for its stunning landscapes, Arran 

is also home to some impressive food and drink 

producers, with whisky, cheese and ice cream 

being strong drawcards. 

But the island has a secret: one of the most 

joyful gin distillery locations you may ever 

stumble across. Isle of Arran Gin co-founders 

Stuart Fraser and George Grassie still revel 

in visitor reactions to their rustic set-up at the 

Cladach Beach House, tucked away on the 

coast near Brodick Castle. “I love watching it 

happen the first time,” says George. “This is a 

very magical little corner. I think people respond 

to that.” A locally loved cabin that was once the 

Arran Nature Centre, and then home à 


to a stained-glass maker, has been 

sensitively renovated by the lads, using 

furniture they’ve either found or made. 

The result is an endearing lounge-roommeets-botanical-lab 

vibe, complete 

with an open fire, a casual piano in 

the corner, and stacks of vinyl records 

piled beside uninterrupted views from 

a sunroom across the Firth of Clyde. 

And some random dinosaur sculptures 

on the beach. “We weren’t looking 

for something as quirky as this, to be 

perfectly honest,” says Stuart. “But we 

want to try and reimagine the distillery 

experience a bit and put people really 

close into the production as much as 

possible. So, while you’re sitting here 

having a tasting session, rather than 

standing about a boardroom kind of 

environment, you sit here by the fire, 

you have a little taste, we have a blether 

about it.” 

A GAP IN THE SCOTTISH 

GIN MARKET 

Far from having distilling or drinks 

industry experience, Stuart and 

George have come to the business in 

a roundabout way. George regularly 

forages for botanicals on Arran, but 

primarily to use in the kitchen: he’s 

an artisanal baker at Blackwater 

Bakehouse at Blackwaterfoot on the 

southwestern side of the island, having 

previously honed his craft in Norway. 

Stuart and his wife own the Bay 

Kitchen & Stores, a cafe and grocery 

shop that stocks George’s bread in 

Whiting Bay, a 20-minute drive south of 

the Beach House, which they purchased 

in 2013 after running a hair salon in 

New York. “Straight away I noticed we 

were selling a lot of craft gins and craft 

beers,” says Stuart. “I said to George 

‘we’re selling a lot of gin from all these 

different [Scottish] islands, why not 

our own? There’s no other Arran gin. 

I spotted a gap in the market and we 

jumped in.” 

A New York–based friend of Stuart’s, 

Ross Hamilton, is the third (mostly 

silent) Scottish partner in the business. 

While the business was launched 

in 2017, the visitor experience at the 

Cladach Beach House has been a 

work in progress, with a series of event 

pop-ups across the summer of 2019 

helping them hone the offering, as well 

as establish partnerships with local food 

vendors. 

A VERY LOCAL GIN 

While they might be novice ginmakers, 

they have had some expert 

advice and guidance, and become 

almost evangelical of their ‘shorelineto-mountain’ 

approach as they bring 

out boxes of the local ingredients that 

comprise Arran Gin, recalling foraging 

expeditions with their friend Mark 

Williams, of Galloway Fine Foods. “He’s 

worked with other gin companies and he 

had a good handle on what grows here… 

because he [also] grew up here,” says 

George. “And he does a lot of wild booze 

as part of his repertoire.” Initially picking 

between 50 and 60 plants, of the Arrangrown 

botanicals they eventually settled 

on six for their gin: sea lettuce (“salad 

fresh, but very full of that rockpool 

brine…sort of coastal scent”), hogweed 

(“the seeds are incredibly punchy in 

flavour: orange bitters, coriander-like 

aromas…a real belter”), meadowsweet 

(“one of the big flavours”), lemon balm 

(“our idea for citrus… but you also 

get [notes of] forest floor, woodland 

tobacco box”), noble fir shoots (“more 

of a grapefruit pine not a floor-cleaner 

pine”) and fuchsia flowers (“rifled from 

the [Brodick Castle] National Trust 

gardeners’ hedge…they actually quite 

like it now”). 

And while they use other ingredients 

common to most London dry gins – 

juniper, a little bit of orange peel, cassia 

bark and angelica – they venture that 

the microclimate on Arran lends the 

locally grown ingredients a somewhat 

mystical, unfathomable power, citing an 

experiment they did with a friend who 

picked the same plants on the mainland 

in Largs. “It’s the same stretch of water 


ut the Arran ones are much stronger. 

Why are the plants bigger and better 

here?” Stuart shrugs. “We’re not asking 

too many questions…just accept it and 

enjoy them.” 

While the Cladach Beach House was 

being readied, the gin has been distilled 

on the mainland at Glenshee Craft 

Distillery in Perthshire with advice from 

Simon Fairclough (of Persie Gin), who 

they met at a drinks event in Glasgow a 

few years ago. “We could go somewhere 

a lot closer to do some of our work than 

go all the way up into Glenshee but he’s 

our guy,” says Stuart. “We just have 

that connection; we’re almost like his 

apprentices.” 

They make between 300 to 400 

bottles a month and the gin is sold mostly 

on Arran as well as some bars and shops 

on the Ayrshire coast, part of a deliberate 

‘anti-distribution’ philosophy. “We want 

to try and have a personal relationship as 

much as possible with the people selling 

the gin, because it does require a bit of 

education,” says Stuart. “It’s not trying to 

be a supermarket brand.” 

FUTURE EXPANSION OF 

THE BUSINESS 

Having dipped their toes in the gin 

waters, the boys already have another 

product: Arran Cassis made from 

blackcurrants in Whiting Bay. There’s 

potential for an Isle of Arran kombucha 

and/or kefir down the track, expanding 

the brand more broadly into a drinks 

company. “It’ll be whatever it’ll be,” 

says Stuart. “We really don’t have a 

particularly explicit business plan. I think 

we are to some extent just going where it 

takes us.” u 

STUART & GEORGE’S FOOD TIPS ON ARRAN 

The local lads favour independent places that are in keeping with their rustic, 

pared-back, community-spirited ethos. 

Mara Fish Bar & Deli: “Offers an 

authentic taste of the windswept, salty 

Arran coastline. It’s not a fishmongers or 

a fish-and-chip shop, it’s proper cheffy 

fish. Local catches always come with a 

twist; think of it as a premium takeaway 

served up right by the beach.” 

mara-arran.co.uk 

The French Fox: “The best of traditional 

French cooking sold from a cute 

old Peugeot van, which they drive 

around the island.” facebook.com/ 

thefrenchfoxfood 

The Sandwich Station: “It’s a hut in the 

middle of nowhere which is so cosy you 

think ‘I shouldn’t be getting a sandwich 

this good from this hut in this place’.” 

thesandwichstation.weebly.com 

〰 

Isle of Arran Cheese Shop: 

“You have to get the Arran Blue 

cheese from Bellevue Creamery, 

I use the creamery’s 

whey to make my croissants (at 

Blackwater Bakehouse: facebook. 

com/bakehouseblackwater). Calum’s 

the only real cheesemaker left on the 

island now and it’s the best blue you’ll 

taste bar none. He’s a milk whisperer.” 

arranscheeseshop.co.uk 

The Wineport: “Our next-door 

neighbours in Cladach, serving 

great-value lunches… and they have 

outdoor tables. It often doubles as 

a pop-up space for other foodie 

events. Right up our street (and on 

our street).” 

wineport.co.uk 


NESTLED IN THE ROLLING VALLEYS OF 

DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK, 

YOU WILL FIND AWARD WINNING LUXURY AT BOVEY CASTLE 

Escape to Bovey Castle 

Set in 275 acres of beautiful countryside within Devon’s Dartmoor National Park. 

The hotel offers 60 bedrooms and 22 self catering country lodges tucked away in the 

grounds, fashioned from local granite and vaulted with English oak. Smith’s Brasserie, 

luxury ‘Elan Spa’, award-winning 18 hole championship golf course and an array of 

outdoor pursuits and activities. 

@boveycastlehotel @BoveyCastle /BoveyCastleHotel 

WWW.BOVEYCASTLE.COM | 01647 445000 

BritishTravelJournal - 120mmx191mm - 17_09_2020.indd 1 17/09/2020 13:37

4 8 H O U R S I N 

FOWEY 

With its open spaces and beautiful beaches, it comes as no surprise that 

Cornwall tops the table as one of the most sought-after destinations to visit post 

lockdown. Jessica Way finds sanctuary on the lesser-known Polperro Heritage 

Coast, avoiding the crowds and embracing the Cornish Riviera lifestyle 

Words | Jessica Way 

à 


WHERE WE STAYED 

FOWEY HALL HOTEL 

Perched up high on the hillside we stand together for a moment, 

bags down by our sides, in awe of the sweeping views, beautiful 

sounds from the harbour, the glistening blue river and the small 

fishing village of Polruan on the opposite bank. We’d arrived 

at our luxury home-from-home getaway for the weekend, the 

majestic Fowey Hall Hotel, South Cornwall. 

The original inspiration for Toad Hall in The Wind in the 

Willows, this luxurious country-house hotel is one of the Luxury 

Family Hotels’ five stunning hotels, renowned for their individual 

character and exceptional family-focused hospitality. And, as 

almost every parent with young children will know, it really is 

the small details and finer touches that can make or break your 

holiday experience. 

Complimentary childcare, baby monitoring services and a 

morning breakfast club can be a godsend for exhausted parents 

in need of some extra shut-eye on a Sunday morning. Take the 

opportunity for some additional precious couple’s time, a guiltfree 

pamper in the spa or to simply enjoy the sea views over a 

glass of locally-made Camel Valley wine. 

And it’s far from a half-hearted ‘family-friendly’ approach, 

we discover that at Fowey being family-focused is at the heart of 

‘everything’ they do. The warmth and friendliness from the staff 

meant there were big smiles all around. The fully-fledged games 

room, cinema room, children’s library, and Wind in the Willowsinspired 

outdoor play area with a zip line help to keep those 

smiles in place throughout the stay. 

For guests with babies in tow, heated bottles and fresh 

morning and evening milk can be brought up to your room 

(free of charge) - and the chef is able to make puréed food from 

morning to evening. There is an all-day welcome hours policy for 

babies and children at the swimming pool, and lots of places 

to relax quietly without the feeling of being on top of other 

guests. 

The hotel’s recent multi-million-pound refurbishment has 

highlighted many of the hotel's impressive original features, to 

include feature fireplaces and a beautiful parquet floor dating 

back to 1899 when Fowey Hall was built as a private house by 

local businessman Sir Charles Hanson. 

Inside the hotel’s historic lobby, you are welcomed by a 

roaring log fire, and antique white walls lit by an eye-catching 

Jamb globe chandelier on the ceiling. Sofas have been 

upholstered in a combination of British heritage-inspired luxury 

fabrics including tweeds, hounds tooth, and herringbone 

with velvet and leather accents and striped canvas and rustic 

reclaimed stools add a playful twist. 

Everywhere you look there’s something interesting to catch 

your eye, from handmade smoked oak coffee tables to creative 

wallpapers and beautiful artwork by local artists taking 

inspiration from the surrounding landscape. My daughters 

especially enjoyed seeing the charcoal prints of characterful 

dogs by Cornish artist Justine Osbourne, an ode to the dogfriendly 

ethos of the hotel. 

Our Family Room was located in the Mansion House, one 

of 16 bedrooms that have been refurbished featuring oak 

wooden floors painted in soft grey, vintage pieces of furniture, 

oversized wool rugs, and bespoke handmade turned oak beds 

made by Cornwall furniture and homeware designer-maker 

Headandhaft. 

There was ample space, even an additional play room, 

which would be the ideal setting for reading a bedtime story. 

My girls are a bit too old for that now, but still young enough 


to adore the ‘softhead’ 

dogs in top hat and glasses 

displayed on the walls, which 

we also enjoyed spotting 

elsewhere around the hotel. 

The bathroom was designed 

in an authentic Victorian 

style finished in two-tone 

crackle glaze tiles - and I was delighted to find Elemis shampoo, 

conditioner and body wash. 

There are 36 rooms in total, 12 family rooms and plenty of 

interconnecting bedrooms, to include the Garden Wing and 

separate Coach House, around a minute’s walk from the hotel. 

Bedrooms in the two-storey Garden Wing have a more modern 

feel, designer furnishings and a deep rust coloured freestanding 

bath to enjoy a long, relaxing soak. While the hotel’s rustic Coach 

House bedrooms feature four-poster beds and a mix of new and 

antique furniture. 

Over in the restaurant, Head Chef Wesley Pratt and his team 

have certainly got to know their local suppliers. Seafood is sourced 

from a small family business, Fish For Thought, while their eggs are 

laid by free-range hens at Colin Carter’s Eggs, near Truro. 

Their award-winning artisan 

ice cream comes from Treleavens, 

churned at Tretoil Farm in the 

north Cornish countryside. Not 

to mention the finest Cornish 

tipples such as Fowey Brewery ales 

and Tarquin’s gin, distilled in the 

southwest. 

(Rooms from £249, bed and breakfast). 

ABOUT FOWEY 

Fowey is an ancient Cornish seaport, with narrow winding 

streets, flower-bedecked houses and pretty cottages jostling 

side by side. 

Quaint shops and ancient pubs stand beside the new 

trendy restaurants, luxury hotels and fancy icecream parlours. 

Fowey has held on impressively well to its picture-perfect 

harbour charm. 

Today Fowey is regarded as one of the most stylish and 

picturesque towns in Cornwall - with a flourishing food and 

drink scene. 

Set in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, its deepwater 

harbour is the perfect pull for sailing fans and the old town is a 

vibrant reminder of its fascinating maritime history. For foodies 

the many bistros, cafes and restaurants, offering the best in 

local produce, will certainly not disappoint either. 

It’s no surprise that Fowey attracts tourism and homeowners 

from across the globe, to include famous actress, writer and 

comedian Dawn French, whose beautiful £3million coastal 

mansion overlooks the Fowey River. 

Fowey’s history has an equally extraordinary story to tell, as 

it was home to author Daphne du Maurier in the 1920s - and 

references to her work can be found everywhere in and around 

the town. 

Daphne took much of her inspiration for writing her novels 

from Fowey, including this beautifully descriptive extract from 

‘Vanishing Cornwall’: "There was a smell in the air of tar 

and rope and rusted chain, a smell of tidal water. Down 

harbour, around the point, was the open sea. Here was the 

freedom I desired, long sought for, not yet known. Freedom 

to write, to walk, to wander, freedom to climb hills, to pull a 

boat, to be alone." à 


DAY ONE 

Following a delicious stress-free breakfast, a game of table 

tennis, a couple of rounds of Pac Man and then Space 

Invaders, beach towels and picnic lunches in our hands, 

we head out on our way to discover Readymoney Cove. It’s 

a fifteen-minute walk from the gate at the bottom of the 

garden to this beautiful sandy hidden beach sheltered by the 

surrounding cliffs. The shimmering water was clear and still, 

and we enjoyed a swim followed by a coffee and cake from the 

Readymoney Cove Beach Shop. We decided to take a stroll a 

little further around the coastline, and headed up a pathway 

leading us onto the South West Coast Path, where we 

discovered the medieval St Catherine’s Castle with views back 

down to Readymoney Cove and to the harbour entrance. 

Later that afternoon we decide to head into the old town, 

passing the grand parade of Edwardian and Victorian houses. 

A special highlight was discovering the Quiet Gardens, a 

wonderful collection of planting by local garden designer Ali 

Siddell with a fascinating history. 

More than 300 years ago, Fowey landowner John Treffry 

donated land to the town to build a free school, Fowey 

Grammar School, where 30 poor boys could be educated in 

maths, history and navigation. The school has long since been 

demolished, but this garden, planted in the school grounds, 

still survives as a very special place - and view. 

Reach the main Fore Street and you will find many small, 

independent shops selling unusual gifts, artwork, clothing and 

books. If you’re a foodie then Fowey is home to many bistros, 

cafes and restaurants where you’ll find menus offering the best 

in local produce. We ate dinner at Sam’s, a bright bistro with 

pop memorabilia hung all over the walls - wherever you choose 

to dine, Fowey River mussels are a recommended choice! 

DAY TWO 

After another leisurely morning at 

the hotel, today’s main adventure 

is a two-hour kayaking river safari 

adventure with Fowey River Hire. On 

our wander down to meet Ben, our 

tour guide, we stumble across a blue 

telephone box transformed into what 

must be one of the UK's smallest 

libraries. 

We also pass the magnificent St Fimbarras church, rebuilt 

in 1460 by the Earl of Warwick after being destroyed by French 

marauders -and don't miss The Ship Inn, Fowey's oldest pub, 

also known as ‘The Old Lady of Fowey'. 

We arrive at our meeting base, the Caffa Mill car park 

where we meet Ben and his daughter, keen to share their 

passion for the Fowey Estuary with us right from the get-go. 

It’s high tide, so we head up river towards Golant, admiring 

the views, paddling around the river, spotting the birdlife, 

while looking out for seals or dolphins. 

Ben and his daughter guide us under a bridge to see 

what must be 

Cornwall’s 

most unusual 

waterside 

property, The 

Old Sawmills in 

its own private 

inlet with no 

road access, 

surrounded by 

woodland. The

EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHTS 

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY 

“As far as an enjoyable family 

staycation goes, Fowey Hall comes 

out on top - an ultra-stylish and 

luxurious hotel, located in one 

of the most quaint and relaxing 

seaside settings in the British Isles” 

hidden creek, known as Bodmin Pill, was used by merchants 

in medieval times, as a landing point to avoid paying landing 

dues upriver at Lostwithiel (the ancient county capital). In 

the 1970s, owner Dennis Smith, a music-industry mentor 

transformed the 3,135sq ft main building into one of the UK’s 

first-ever residential recording studios! We were floating 

outside the legendary studio, where bands such as The Stone 

Roses, Oasis, The Verve, Supergrass and Muse worked by 

day and partied by night, and where Oasis recorded their 

breakout album, Definitely, Maybe in 1990. 

We stop in at Ruby’s, Fowey’s newest ice cream parlour 

before heading home; I chose a limited edition Tarquin's gin 

and berry sorbet - and I don’t want the moment to end. 

It’s no wonder the location has already had so much 

fame, inspiring authors, songwriters, and comedians, and 

leaving a special mark on all who visit. As far as an enjoyable 

family staycation goes, Fowey Hall comes out on top - an 

ultra-stylish and luxurious hotel, located in one of the most 

quaint and relaxing seaside settings in the British Isles”. u 

To book your stay at Fowey Hall call +44 (0) 208 0765555 

or visit luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk 

Visiting the Fowey Aquarium: Pop into the 

charmingly old fashioned Fowey Aquarium on the 

Town Quay where you can literally get in touch 

with local sea creatures in the petting pool. A great 

nostalgic fishy fix. 

Taking a ferry trip to Polruan: Take the 

passenger ferry across the harbour to Polruan 

and explore the narrow lanes that climb steeply 

through the village, or out towards the medieval 

blockhouse. 

Hiring an open cockpit canoe: Take to the 

water yourself on an escorted river trip in an open 

cockpit canoe, perfect for observing the abundant 

river wildlife and a real adventure even if you’re a 

total novice. 

Taking a countryside hike: There are many 

fantastic coastal and woodland walks around the 

area including The Hall Walk which links Polruan 

with Bodinnick via the hidden creek at Pont. 

Taking a River Cruise: See the town from the 

water with a trip on board one of the pleasure 

boats that regularly depart from the Town Quay 

steps. Cruises take you upriver past the docks, 

where you will see huge china clay ships being 

loaded with cargo, and out to sea taking in the 

best views of the town. 

Visiting the Fowey Museum: Located in 

the town centre the Fowey Museum holds an 

interesting collection recording Fowey’s rich and 

varied history. Includes the Daphne Du Maurier 

collection, Mayoral Regalia, costumes, old 

photographs, models of old sailing ships and 

postcards. 


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NURTURE YOUR 

CREATIVITY 

Whether you’re a complete beginner, or an experienced 

artist, a painting break will open your eyes, and supply 

inspiration from our island’s wealth of spectacular scenery 

Words | Helen Holmes 

With our lifestyles 

having had an 

enforced change 

of pace over the 

past year, many people have 

found themselves discovering, or 

re-discovering their creative side. 

For some this may even lead to a 

permanent change of direction, 

but whether you feel the calling of 

a new, more creative career, or are 

looking for a rewarding hobby, it can 

be hard to find the time and space 

that creativity needs to flourish when 

the concerns of day to day life start 

creeping back in.. 

A holiday which combines a 

visit to a stunning part of the UK 

with expert artistic guidance is the 

perfect way to ensure that your 

muse doesn’t get neglected – while 

giving you a relaxing break in the 

company of like-minded people. 

There are a great range of courses 

and locations out there – all offering 

the opportunity to develop your 

artistic style in truly extraordinary 

environments. à 


WHITEHOUSE 

STUDIO 

Set on the west coast of Argyll, 

amongst spectacular beaches and 

rock formations, courses at the 

Whitehouse Studio encourage 

students to take inspiration 

from the magnificent changing 

landscape throughout the seasons 

– scenery which has inspired 

famous groups of artists such as the 

Glasgow Boys and Glasgow Girls. 

Founder of Whitehouse, Karen 

Beauchamp, welcomes students 

of all levels, “I always take the 

students along a path which covers 

the basic rudiments of shape, 

form, tone and colour – even 

experienced artists often like to 

reset their appreciation of these 

fundamental principles. I especially 

enjoy teaching beginners – as a 

self-taught artist myself, I know 

how the journey feels and can tailor 

the tasks to help them on their own 

journey.” 

Accommodation is in 

Glenreasdale House – a light 

and airy arts and crafts style 

house, which is part of a hunting 

lodge built in 1905 by a whisky 

entrepreneur. The rooms are 

large and comfortable – with 

Karen having used her previous 

experience as an architect and 

interior specialist to decorate in an 

eclectic style. The rooms overlook 

either the loch and the Kilberry 

peninsula, or the walled garden, 

and the atmosphere is friendly and 

welcoming, “Everyone congregates 

in the kitchen or the south west 

facing sitting room by the log fire,” 

says Karen. 

whitehouseart.co.uk 

CALLINGTON 

SCHOOL OF ART 

Tessa Sulston and her husband Peter 

moved to Cornwall in 2006 and founded 

the Callington School of Art. Located 

in the Tamar Valley, the school is within 

easy reach of Bodmin Moor, Dartmoor, 

and both the north and south coasts of 

Cornwall, and accommodation is provided 

in Tessa and Peter’s spacious Georgian 

townhouse. 

The school mainly runs six day courses, 

which Tessa believes enables students to 

become immersed in their art. “We supply 

a wide variety of materials so artists can 

experiment with different media. 

There is a structured element to all 

courses but an important part of our 

philosophy is that each artist, with 

guidance, follows their own path.” 

This philosophy works, as guests will 

testify – one student, Mileva Novkovic, has 

returned seven times: “Tessa and Peter 

look after guests really well. Tessa provides 

invaluable art tuition – she’s a talented 

artist and an experienced teacher. Peter is 

a great chef and delights guests with his 

beautifully cooked and presented dishes, 

taking into account the whole range of 

dietary needs.” 

“These holidays are about art and fine 

food in an authentic Cornish setting, run 

by people who really do know their stuff 

and make it all such fun. There’s always 

an element of surprise because at first 

you don’t know the other guests but it’s 

fascinating to meet new people and see 

what inspires their work.” 

callingtonartschool.com 


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RETREATS 

Laid-back luxury holiday retreats 

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BIG SKY ART 

Big Sky Art, on the stunning North 

Norfolk coast, offers painting 

courses in a range of mediums 

led by well-known artists, and the 

accommodation is in a luxurious 

country house. Non painting partners 

are welcome too – so while you receive 

expert tuition, your other half can 

explore the nearby harbours and 

beaches, shop in Burnham Market, or 

visit RSPB Titchwell Marsh. 

The location is ideal for painting 

seascapes in the open air. Regular 

tutor at Big Sky and watercolour 

artist, Jem Bowden, loves the area, 

“There are superb painting locations – 

picturesque small harbours, creeks and 

inland village scenery all of a type that 

is full of character and unspoiled by 

time. People who enjoy coastal scenes, 

boaty things and water – and of course 

big open skies will be in their element.” 

As the co-ordinator of Big Sky Art, 

Janie Preece, and recent student, 

Liz Monk, testify – time to focus 

on your art alongside fellow 

enthusiasts complements the 

scenery perfectly. “It’s so lovely to 

be able to concentrate on what you 

want to do,” says Janie, “it’s also 

a wonderful opportunity to relax, 

to be looked after, well fed and 

comfortably accommodated.” 

“I can’t choose one favourite 

thing”, adds Liz, “the facilities, the 

catering, the studio, the plein air 

locations, the guests, the staff and 

our tutor all combined to provide 

an unforgettable painting and 

learning experience. The company, 

the conversations and the laughs 

we had during our painting sessions 

and over dinner provided the icing 

on the cake.” 

bigskyartcourses.com 


THE LAKE DISTRICT 

SCHOOL OF ART 

The Lake District is famous for inspiring 

artists and poets, and local artist Colin 

Halliday is passionate about sharing his 

skills, and knowledge of the region, with 

visiting students. “I’m from Cumbria 

originally, so I know the area very well, 

and we take students to some spectacular 

locations.” Colin’s speciality is working in 

oils with a palette knife, “We work with 

only eight colours and I show students 

how they can mix any colour they need. 

They learn to look and see colour and 

understand it better – to see them get 

better at it over the days is wonderful.” 

Guests stay in Keswick, but travel 

around the surrounding area to paint in 

a variety of dramatic outdoor locations. 

Lucy Wickens studied with Colin 

last year, “The accommodation and 

hospitality were excellent – a gorgeous, 

spacious house, perfect to accommodate 

the painting group, and the location of 

central Keswick was perfect. Colin was 

an exceptional tutor and I’ve taken a 

huge amount from working with him.” 

artpaintingholidays.co.uk 

ST IVES SCHOOL 

OF PAINTING 

The St Ives School of Painting was 

established in 1938 by painter Leonard 

Fuller, and the school have been 

running art classes from the same 

studios overlooking Porthmeor Beach 

ever since. 

St Ives is an iconic destination for 

artists and art lovers, with a wealth 

of art to look at, as well as coastal 

scenery to inspire. Tutors at the school 

are all experienced practising artists, 

and the studios are the very same 

spaces where famous residents of 

St Ives, such as Ben Nicholson and 

Barbara Hepworth once came to life 

drawing classes. 

The school offers a huge range of 

courses, though accommodation is not 

provided, so visitors need to find their 

own – there are plenty of options in 

bustling St Ives. 

schoolofpainting.co.uk 

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY 

RENOIR WALK 

This new art trail in Guernsey lets you 

follow in the footsteps of the famous 

French impressionist, Pierre-Auguste 

Renoir - showcasing how the island 

inspired some of the artist’s greatest 

works. 

Located in the Moulin Huet valley on 

the island’s south coast, the Renoir Walk 

is a short, self-guided trail that takes 

visitors to locations where Renoir painted 

during a summer holiday in 1883. 

The famous Impressionist spent just 

over a month on Guernsey and created 

15 paintings during his stay, the majority 

of which depict views of Moulin Huet bay 

and beach, and which are considered to 

be among his best pieces of work. 

The Renoir Walk follows his footsteps 

around the bay and is marked by five 

empty picture frames, which are placed 

in the exact spots where Renoir worked 

on his own paintings. The frames – 

especially commissioned to echo the 

ornate frames Renoir chose for his own 

artworks – allow viewers to see Moulin 

Huet from the same perspectives as the 

Frenchman did. Next to each frame, 

a panel offers further information plus 

a QR code that can be scanned with a 

smartphone to play an audio guide by Mr 

Cyrille Sciama, Director of the Musée des 

Impressionnismes in Giverny and a world 

authority on Renoir. A PDF guide is also 

available to download at artforguernsey. 

com/renoir. Or visit visitguernsey.com 


1FOR BEACH LOVING DOGS 

If your pet loves nothing better than tiring themselves out with 

runs and ball games on the sand, the Bijou Apartment in 

trendy Rock, Cornwall, should be on your holiday wishlist. 

As the name suggests this is a cute little crash pad for 

two with stonking sea views and the beach just steps away across 

the coastal road. The huge windows and decked balcony afford 

sweeping vistas across the Camel Estuary. Rock is a great place to 

hang out year round, with sophisticated eateries both here and in 

nearby Padstow from the likes of Nathan Outlaw and Rick Stein. 

beachretreats.co.uk 

2FOR DOWN WITH IT DOGS 

Hipster hounds should get themselves and their humans 

down to South Place Hotel in London, near Liverpool Street 

station. Glamorous Conran-designed interiors include 

contemporary art from emerging London artists. You can eat 

with your dog in any of the bars, or in the Secret Garden, a 

magical outdoor space with retractable roof. Some of London’s 

coolest neighbourhoods are on the doorstep, such as Shoreditch, 

Spitalfields and Hoxton. When walkies call, you can both explore the 

area with the hotel’s walking/jogging map of the best sights, calling in 

at Spitalfields Market and dog-friendly cafes and pubs nearby. 

southplacehotel.com 


10OF THE BEST 

DOG 

FRIENDLY 

HOLIDAYS 

Words | Emma O'Reilly 


3FOR WATER LOVING DOGS 

Undercastle Cottage is a fairytale hideaway in a magical 

setting on the edge of a river, deep in the New Forest. 

When it’s too cold to swim in the river, your dog or dogs (two 

are allowed) can accompany you on fishing trips along it in 

the rowing boat – just bring your own rods. Or, delve into the forest 

on long walks or cycle rides – there’s a hire shop nearby. Back at 

the house, all is cosy and comfortable, with beautifully decorated 

light filled rooms. Two double bedrooms are in the main house and 

there’s an extra twin room in the separate fishing lodge. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 


5FOR DOGS WHO PREFER 

THE BEST OF BOTH 

Just five minutes away from the rugged beaches of 

Cornwall’s north coast, set within its own attractive gardens, 

Wren Cottage is a beautiful countryside escape. Scandi-inspired 

contemporary styling with beautiful, restored traditional 

architecture and a postcard-perfect serene garden. There is plenty of 

choice for incredible walks and places to discover, from the doorstep. 

With easy access in minutes to Perranporth, St Agnes and Newquay, 

you can spend your days flipping between the coast and countryside. 

cornishgems.com 

4FOR ANTI-SOCIAL DOGS 

If your dog likes to socially distance, pandemic or not, then 

The House at Mackay’s could be the perfect holiday choice. 

This thoughtfully designed bolthole sleeping six people is 

close to Durness, the most northerly village on mainland Britain. 

The house is remote (four wheel drive recommended in the winter 

months) but within easy reach of shops, restaurants and cafes. 

Guests can enjoy mile upon mile of walks through the rugged countryside, 

including cliff and beach walks. When the weather is wild, hole up and enjoy 

the panoramic views towards the ocean from the big windows (look out for 

the Northern Lights after dark) or curl up next to the wood burner! 

coolstays.com 

6 

FOR ROCK ‘N’ ROLL DOGS 

Candyland Studios is a cool, fun, open plan log cabin – just 

the place to hang out for a few days or more, with family, 

friends and up to two dogs. There’s lots to occupy, especially 

for the musically minded. Grab a guitar or a ukulele or have 

a tinkle on the baby grand piano. Or, record your own song in the 

recording studio (it’s actually in the cabin!). You can even hire a 

technician to figure out all the fiddly bits for you. Outside, play in the 

woods, or have a campfire. Jump in the car and head to the Tarka Trail, 

a former railway line, for 31 miles of traffic free walks and cycling, or 

explore the wild North Devon coastline. There’s never a dull moment here. 

canopyandstars.co.uk 


7 

EDITOR'S CHOICE 

FOR DOGS WHO LOVE 

THE SEASIDE 

Who doesn’t love a traditional British seaside holiday? Especially 

with the revival of exquisite beach hut accommodation lining our 

coastlines and offering simple fun by the pier while staying in luxury 

in your own beachside sumptuous suite. Coupled with the recent rise 

we’ve seen in staycations, I think it’s fair to say that old-fashioned 

‘bucket and spade’ fun is making a powerful come-back. The newest 

arrival to the scene are the Beachcroft Beach Huts in West Sussex - 

which have made a huge splash in our desire for a high-end holiday 

hut. The four adjoining luxurious two-bedroom suites are located 

on the beach front in Felpham Village. Each is furnished in a modern 

beachside art-deco style complete with bathroom and stylish lounge 

area with a cosy corner sofa, and wall to wall glass doors opening 

out onto your own private terrace overlooking the beach. You and 

your four-legged companions can enjoy fresh sea air, sandy toes 

and relaxing sounds of gently lapping waves from morning to 

night, regardless of the weather. Dogs can even enjoy a swim on the 

beach all year round. Wrap up in your dressing robe and gaze out 

to the sea over a morning coffee, or be mesmerised by the evening 

sunset while dining with your guests (furry or not!) alfresco-style. 

Fancy a movie night in? There are all the latest mod-cons including 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

L O V E S 

2 0 2 0 


EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHTS 

ALFRESCO DINING 

Enjoy traditional English dishes freshly 

prepared with a modern twist. Order from the 

3 course à la carte menu or selection of lighter 

bites and home cooked classics. The food is 

delicious and can be delivered to your door, 

to be enjoyed on your terrace, or to your own 

private dining Pod in the garden. 

COASTAL FOOTPATHS 

The Beachcroft Beach Huts are situated on 

a seven mile coastal footpath, and with a 

plethora of doggy friendly trails including the 

stunning South Down Way and local heritage 

trails on your doorstep you are spoilt for choice. 

smart TV with Netflix, Nespresso machine, Smeg fridge, and a welcome 

amenity bottle of Rose, decanter of Sloe Gin - perfect for warming the 

body up again after a dip in the sea! Dogs are offered the same fivestar 

treatment, with dog beds, toys, water and food bowls, biscuits and 

chews, dog bags, and doggie ice cream vouchers to spend in the local 

Pinks Parlour. As the suites are owned by the adjacent Beachcroft Hotel, 

guests are also welcome to enjoy the hotel facilities including the bar 

and restaurant, the bistro garden and indoor heated swimming pool. 

Breakfast is included in all room rates and can be enjoyed by breakfast 

hamper delivered to your door. You can also order picnic lunches and 

even borrow deckchairs from the hotel! beachcroftbeachhuts.co.uk 

ENJOYING THE WATER 

West Wittering is the place to go for watersports, 

including paddleboarding and windsurfing hire 

- its about a half an hour drive. Or if you prefer 

to stay closer to home you might enjoy a spot 

of rockpooling. Nets, buckets and spades are 

available for guests to enjoy. 

LOCAL AREA 

The Beachcroft Beach Huts make a fantastic 

base for exploring other popular attractions in 

West Sussex, including Goodwood, Arundel 

Castle, Chichester Cathedral, Chichester 

Theatre and Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. 

Beach Hut Suites are priced from £250 bed and 

breakfast per night based on 2 adults sharing. 


8FOR ENERGETIC DOGS 

Modern country chic abounds at The Fish Hotel, on the 

Farncombe Estate in the glorious Cotswolds. Pull on some 

wellies to roam 400 acres of wooftastic walks. Not enough 

exercise for your bouncy companion? Then try out the hotel’s 

own agility course for size. After all that exercise, afternoon tea calls 

and your best friend can accompany you here, too. In fact they are 

welcome most places, except in the restaurant. Dog friendly rooms, 

suites and even luxe tree houses are all available, with dog beds, 

bowls and towels making it easy for owners. There are some doggie 

treats too – they are also on holiday after all! 

thefishhotel.co.uk 

9 

FOR GOURMET DOGS 

The Lake District is world famous for its wonderful walks. 

Your dog can fuel up for them with a gourmet stay at the 

Broadoaks Country House, Windermere. The owners’ 

cavapoos, Flo and Scout, encourage well behaved new friends 

to visit their home, enticing first with a welcome pack of treats, then 

offering DBB (that’s Doggie Bed & Breakfast) or DDBB 

(Doggie Dinner, Bed & Breakfast). Dinner choices might include 

salmon bite canapes, lamb with carrots or roast chicken breast, 

while breakfast features warm bacon or sausage with gravy. 

Dogs aren’t allowed in the main restaurant but welcome to hang 

out with their owners in the bar and music room. When nature calls, 

the hotel’s dog walking field is just across the road. 

broadoakscountryhouse.co.uk 


10 

FOR DOGS WHO ENJOY 

THE WILD SIDE OF LIFE 

Skye has to be one of Scotland's most exquisite islands and 

one which has inspired many notable people, from Agatha 

Christie to Virginia Woolf, with its wild beauty. Corry Bothy is a 

romantic Scottish beauty, nestled on the water's edge, formerly a 

fisherman's shelter (which is what Bothy means in Gaelic). 

Today, Corry Bothy has been lovingly restored by its owners and 

turned into a beautiful dog friendly abode for couples. Situated 

close to the village of Broadford, this wonderful retreat is perfectly 

situated to explore the simply epic beauty of Skye, whether you're 

hiking around the Old Man of Storr, marvelling at the Fairy Pools, 

taking a boat trip to spot sea eagles or enjoying a tipple at one of 

the islands' three whiskey distilleries. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 



COASTAL 

FORAGING 

Wild edibles are in abundance across the British 

Isles with a tantalising range of fungi, plants, 

shellfish and seaweed on offer countrywide 

Words | Lydia Paleschi 

Whether you’re looking to 

expand your knowledge of 

your local ecosystem, spend 

more time outdoors or make 

your dinner parties all the more interesting, 

coastal foraging promises the discovery of a 

world full of beauty, flavour and intrigue, all 

whilst providing you with the opportunity to 

visit Britain’s beautiful coastlines. 

Expert forager Matt Vernon gives me an 

introduction to coastal foraging and his top 

tips for heading to the coast and giving it a go. 

Originally from Lacock, 

Matt has been foraging 

since his childhood and 

spent years researching 

and honing his skills. 

He has featured 

on multiple television 

programmes and worked with many of the 

most prestigious restaurants in Cornwall, 

supplying them with wild edibles from 

around the coast. He now holds both 

coastal and woodland foraging walks and 

pop-up feasts around the county. 

à 


Why we should forage 

Matt begins by explaining that wild foraging is 

important for our countryside. Much like pruning 

your garden plants, by picking some species, 

foraging enables others to grow. However, he 

emphasises the only way this to be the case is to 

forage sustainably. “Safe foraging is sustainable 

foraging. By picking new leaves from plants you 

lower the risk of taking poisonous varieties home, 

whilst ensuring you’re not taking away huge 

handfuls of plant growth at a time”. Whilst it is 

important to be aware of plants with toxins, there 

are many others with immense health benefits. 

“Take wild nettles for example, they are pretty 

much classed as a superfood and have higher 

nutritional values than spinach and almost as 

much protein as pulses. They’re the perfect 

compliment to a vegan diet as they’re high in iron 

and calcium.” One of the reasons Matt enjoys 

foraging so much is because finding wild edibles 

around the coast is possible all year round and 

helps us to develop an affinity with our natural 

surroundings. “You develop a connection with 

nature and feel a part of it. When you become 

a part of something you become protective of 

it, so many foragers are also environmental 

campaigners.” 

How to give it a go 

The first thing Matt advises is don’t try to forage 

a whole meal. “The idea is to incorporate wild 

food into your everyday diet. This also means 

that you’re not setting yourself up for failure 

or disappointment when you can't forage your 

whole dinner.” Having done some homework 

and equipped with a couple of books (Matt 

recommends that Emma Gunn’s Never Mind the 

Burdocks is one of them) it’s time to head to the 

coast. “At your local beach start in the splash 

zone, just above the high tide mark and look for 

small areas of soil where plants will be able to 

grow. Sea beet is the easiest one to look for and 

has similar characteristics to chard, with green 

leaves and purple stalks. You can use different 

parts of the sea beet plant at different times of 

the year. For example, during spring you can 

make a salad from the leaves and when it goes 

into flower during the summer the flower stalks 

have a crunchy texture.” 

Next on the list is Rock Samphire. Well known 

for its popularity in Michelin star restaurants, it 

is also found above the high tide line and even 

grows out of sea walls. “It’s easily recognisable 

and therefore easy to identify, but is a strong 

flavour so should be paired with other things. 

The flowers are also delicious, especially when 

they’ve been dipped in tempura batter.” Sea 

Radish can be found in the splash zone too, 

further up than sea beet and also in sand dunes. 

From late summer to late spring, the many 

varieties of seaweed are at their best for foraging. 

Matt’s favourite is Thong Weed, alternatively 

known as Sea Spaghetti. “It’s a lovely seaweed to 

eat and is great for kids. It starts a khaki colour 

but when submerged in boiling water for 10-20 

seconds turns bright green.” 

OUR FAVOURITE FORAGING 

EXPERIENCES ACROSS THE 

BRITISH ISLES: 

Cornish Wild Food, Cornwall, England 

Specialising in wild food education and wild 

cooking, Matt offers coastal foraging walks and 

feasts at various sites around the Cornish coast. 

cornishwildfood.co.uk 

Coastal Foraging, Pembrokeshire and 

Camarthenshire, Wales 

Discover sea vegetables and shellfish whilst 

learning about the seashore environment. At low 

tide, discover deep water species such as crabs 

and lobster. Craig, accompanied by his dog, aims 

to inspire people in their knowledge of the coastal 

environment and to promote its conservation. 

coastalforaging.co.uk 

Coastal Survival School, UK 

Based in the South West but available across 

the UK, Coastal Survival School brings together 

a range of experts to provide you with fantastic 

foraging experiences on the British coast. Choose 

from a wide range of courses including foraging for 

coastal plants or for seaweed and shellfish. 

coastalsurvival.com 

Wildwood Bushcraft, Moidart, Scotland 

For the all out coastal foraging experience, 

Wildwood Bushcraft holds full day courses 

where you will learn to fish, forage and cook. 

Finds include seaweed, crustaceans, shellfish 

and fish. 


FORAGING SAFETY 

Matt makes it very clear that it is crucial to be aware of 

the health and safety risks of coastal foraging. “Don’t 

eat anything unless you’re one hundred percent 

certain. It’s as important to be able to identify the 

poisonous plants as it is the edible ones, as there are 

some toxic species such as Hemlock Water Dropwort 

which can often prove fatal upon consumption.” 

Here are his top tips for keeping safe: 

Don't rush it: Practice sustainable foraging by 

picking one leaf at a time 

Cross-reference: Use two or more books to crossreference 

during identification 

Be safe: Never eat anything unless you are certain of 

your identification 

Be sure: Double check your harvest when you get 

home 

Use social media: Use social media groups to 

contact foragers and botanists to help you with 

identification. They will have seen species in their 

multiple stages of growth, whereas a book may only 

show you one. 

Having said this, Matt tells me that this shouldn’t put 

people off from heading to the coast and foraging 

at their local beaches. For those who find it difficult 

to access the beach or rockpools, you can look for 

edibles in car parks, gardens, or anywhere with a 

hedgerow. Wherever you go, it’s worth going foraging 

with an expert to begin with, to learn the fascinating 

history and etymology of the plants, including their 

historical botanical usage. Matt tells me, “You will 

also learn about sustainable foraging and woodland 

management, useful knowledge for helping you find 

wild edibles, to appreciate and understand habitats, 

and help us to protect them more.” u 


THE CHARM OF 

CLOVELLY 

Recently named as ‘the most instagrammable village in the UK’, 

British Travel Journal's Editor checks in at the new Sail Loft harbour suites 

in Clovelly to discover more about this stunning North Devon village 


IAM GOING TO BE HONEST, even if a 

little embarrasing to admit, that yes, it was 

one of the 134,353 Instagram captures, 

giving Clovelly its title as the UK’s most 

Instagrammable village, which inspired me to visit 

for the first time. 

Seeing the extraordinary view of the famous 

cobbled street, built of stones from the beach, 

know as 'Up-a-long' or 'Down-a-long', with a 

glistening sea and inviting blue sky in the vista - 

this was more than enough to tempt me. 

I soon discovered, however, that as wonderful 

as this well-acclaimed snapshot might be, it's 

not the only reason for visiting Clovelly - in fact, 

there are many more incredible highlights just 

waiting to be discovered in this little village. 

Most incredibly, Clovelly is very special in 

that it has been privately owned, managed and 

preserved by the same family since 1738. There 

is a small community of around 400 residents 

(known as the cobblers) who rent their pictureperfect 

houses from the family's Clovelly Estate 

Company, and together, they run the village. 

There are no holiday homes allowed and no 

option to buy. However together with the owners, 

the residents look after the village and enjoy living 

in it just as it would have been in the mid 19th 

century - making this one of the most unique, 

famous and beautiful villages in the world. 

Properties in the village do not become 

available very often, but when they do, potential 

newcomers are interviewed, as they must have a 

skill or business attribute where they are able to 

personally contribute to the community if they 

are going to live there. All residents are expected 

to join some of the village groups and take an 

active and supportive role in village life. 

If you are born living on the cobbles however 

(a cobbler baby) then you are exempt from this 

interview process - instead, you will be given 

priority status on rental opportunities when 

looking for a home of your own. 

This exceptional sense of community spirit 

gives Clovelly its unrivalled charm - the tour 

guides, restaurant staff, museum workers to 

the local fisherman, everyone’s a team, living 

and working together on the cobbles - and this 

includes entire families who have lived in the 

village for generations. 

Take the Perham family, for example, one of 

the oldest families in Clovelly - they have been 

cobblers now for six generations. Artist siblings 

Rachel and Stephen (Perham) follow in their 

Mother's tradition of painting on pebbles, their 


naïve and folk art paintings are displays 

of Clovelly as they see it through their 

eyes today. 

For day visitors to the village, there 

is a modest admission charge, which 

includes parking, an informative video 

on Clovelly’s history in the Visitor 

Centre, the museums in the village, 

and free admission to Clovelly Court 

Gardens. The profits made from this 

charge, the pubs, hotels, restaurants 

and shops, are invested straight back 

into preserving the village. And that 

comes at an eye-watering price! 

Just the upkeep of the stonework in 

the village has cost the Clovelly Estate 

Company over £76,000 in the last 

few years, upkeep of the Harbour wall 

and quay around £50,000, and over 

£200,000 on exterior decorations alone. 

For day visitors the large Visitor 

Centre offers plenty of parking spaces 

at the top of the hill. From here it is a 

short downhill walk to the top of the 

high street, passing the donkey stables 

and craft workshops of pottery, silk and 

soap (don't miss watching the skilled 

craftsmen at work in the converted 

stable-yard), before tumbling its way 

all the way down to the ancient fishing 

harbour and 14th Century quay. 

Clinging to a 400-foot cliff, once you 

are in the village, there is no traffic, just 

donkeys and man-powered sledges to 

transport all goods, from groceries to 

furniture. Donkeys used to be the main 

form of transport for centuries, but now 

they are mainly seen giving children rides 

around their meadow during the summer 

or posing for photographs in the street. 

It is a joy to gently meander your 

way past the whitewashed cottages 

lining the streets, while navigating the 

passageways and winding lanes that 

lead off to further picturesque treasures. 

It is as if the illustrations from your 

favourite childhood book of the most à 


eautiful village you could possibly imagine comes 

to life around you. The purring cats greet you from 

the doorsteps of their homes, beautifully decorated 

with blooming flowerbeds, pastel-colours and 

ornamental shells. Children play without a care 

in the world, carrying with them crab buckets, 

bodyboards and just the smell of sweet roses. 

It is no wonder with all this magic in the air that 

Clovelly has so many literary and artist connections; 

Charles Kingsley lived here, Charles Dickens wrote 

about it, William Turner painted it and Rex Whistler 

featured it in much of his work too. 

In the village, you can visit the Kingsley Museum 

where you’ll see Charles sitting at his desk in his 

“It is as if the 

illustrations from 

your favourite 

childhood 

book of the 

most beautiful 

village you could 

possibly imagine 

comes to life 

around you.” 

study composing a letter to his bride-to-be. There’s 

also the Fisherman’s Cottage, where you can see 

how a Clovelly fisherman and his family lived in the 

1930s. 

You could easily spend the entire day exploring 

the village shops, museums, pubs and picturesque 

harbour, and when hunger calls there are several 

options of restaurants and bars. 

Stop off for a famous Devon Cream Tea at 

Hamlyn’s, located in the New Inn, a magnificently 

beam-hung room featuring a portrait of Christine 

Hamlyn in her wedding dress. Or for delicious 

home-cooked pub grub while watching the world 

go by there’s the beer garden at the Upalong Bar, 


outside at the back of the Inn. You might 

also enjoy walking in the footsteps of Lily 

James with a visit to the Snug, as seen in 

The Guernsey Literary And Potato Peel Pie 

Society, with views looking out across the 

harbour and bay. 

Fresh fish, crabs and lobster land on 

the quay at Clovelly daily - straight off 

local boats into the Harbour Restaurant, 

so sampling some of their famous 

Clovelly lobsters is an absolute must. 

The Harbour Restaurant is open for 

dinner every evening with stunning views 

across the quay and harbour. 

For those who do not want to walk 

back up, there is a fare-paying Land 

Rover service for much of the year to 

return you to the top of the village. 

CLOVELLY COURT 

GARDENS 

Back at the top is where you will discover 

a true gem in the village - one that is 

often be overlooked by visitors. Clovelly 

Court Gardens, located adjacent to the 

13th Century parish church of All Saints, 

is a perfect example of a real working 

Victorian kitchen garden. 

The gardens are a contrast to the rest 

of the village, protected from the winds 

and bounded by an avenue of lofty lime 

trees, bordered by herbaceous beds, 

which in summer are a blaze of colour. 

Several blissful hours could be spent 

admiring its splendid herbaceous borders 

and magnificently restored Victorian 

glasshouses. In the run of glasshouses, 

you will find apricots, peaches, 

nectarines, melons, grapes, lemons and 

figs, ripening in the warmth, along with 

cucumbers, peppers, chillies, aubergines 

– and a tropical Abutilon. 

Outside there are apples, pears, quinces, 

medlars, soft fruit, and two mulberry trees 

– and even Chinese gooseberries. The 

Red Lion and the New Inn at Clovelly are 

both supplied with the fruit and vegetable 

produce from the gardens. 

WHERE TO STAY 

There are two hotels, the 400 year old 

New Inn, in the heart of the village and 

the 18th Century Red Lion on the quay, 

or Hamlyn’s hostel - a simple no-frills bed 

and breakfast opposite the New Inn. 

The Red Lion has recently launched 

six beautifully refurbished Sail Loft 

bedroom suites following an impressive 

a conversion of an old Grade II listed 

building store adjacent to pub, previously 

used as a cobbler’s shop and store room 

for the Coastguards gig rowing boat and 

fishing tackle. 

The bedrooms are stylishly decorated, 

and you just can’t beat the spectacular 

sea and harbour views. The private guest 

parking offers you the unique opportunity 

to enjoy the harbour and the village 

before, during and after-hours from the 

day visitors, and of course access to the 

harbour by car (rather than on foot). The 

evenings in Clovelly have a very different 

feel. Calm and serene, the village reverts 

back to a peaceful village of residents.u 

You might also enjoy: 

Book on a village tour: Joining a village 

tour is a perfect way to learn more about 

the village history and traditions. 

A romantic boat trip to Lundy: 

Lundy (Norse for island of puffins) lies 

twelve miles off the coast from Clovelly. 

This three and a half mile-long granite 

outcrop sits on the edge of the Atlantic 

Ocean, with nothing but sea between 

it and North America, three thousand 

miles away. You can book a trip there 

from the Quay at Clovelly 

Walking the South West Coast Path: 

From the very top of the high street 

Clovelly offers breathtaking scenery and 

lengthy walks along the cliff tops.There 

are lovely signposted walks on the South 

West Coast Path in both directions. 

Join in the fun: 

Time your visit and experience one of the 

annual festivals including the “Seaweed 

Festival” in June, “Maritime Festival” in July, 

“Lobster and Crab Feast” in September and 

the “Herring Festival” in November. 



THE BIRCH 

If you’re yearning for a UK mini-break with a difference then you’ll be hard pushed 

to find a better escape than The Birch - the UK’s most trendy new hotel to open this 

year. Unleash your creativity, feel at peace and be prepared to be impressed. 


IT IS EASY TO INTRODUCE The Birch as you 

would for any luxury new hotel launch, it’s a 

140-bedroom converted Georgian Mansion, set 

in Theobalds 55-acre Estate, Hertfordshire, just 

30 minutes from London’s Liverpool Street Station. 

However, this is where the comparison ends, as The 

Birch is not like any other hotel, it’s a totally new 

concept - I expect you’re either going to love it or 

hate it. 

Even the name, Birch (handle.silk.comet), takes on 

an innovative approach - as the first British brand to 

use new location technology, what3words, an app 

which enables people around the world to share 

precise locations, with every 3 metres square having 

a unique combination of three words. 

The brainchild behind it is Chris Penn, former 

Managing Director of The Ace Hotel London 

Shoreditch, recently the highest-placed hospitality 

operator on the CoolBrands list, he leaves behind 

one cutting edge hotel to launch another. 

The Birch is a members club, but one where 

everyone’s welcome, as you do not need to be a 

member to stay here. Non-member hotel guests 

and restaurant diners still get access to everything 

“The Birch 

is not like any 

other hotel, 

it’s a totally 

new concept - I 

expect you’re 

either going to 

love it or 

hate it” 

on offer. The incentive to become a member, 

for a cost of £120 a month (and a £200 joining 

fee), offers you full access to the Wellness Space, 

two restaurants, three bars, co-working space... 

and the daily-run programme of classes and 

events (including wild yoga on the lawn, ceramics 

workshops in the pottery studio, sourdoughmaking, 

beekeeping and foraging walks around the 

grounds). There are a few other perks too, such as 

discounts on room rates, spa treatments and food 

and drink. 

The concept is both bold and brave, and 

although (it seems) aimed principally at the Gen-Z 

and Millennials generations who work in the city, 

amongst the many fashionable city-dwellers the 

hotel was bustling with multi-generational families 

and parents with young children too. The mornings 

took on a very different feel to the party-vibe in 

the evenings, where cocktails were flowing and 

DJs were playing their latest sets on the lawn. The 

hotel was much quieter, people were few and far 

between during breakfast time, with just a handful 

queuing for coffee dressed in their gym gear, or 

taking their pampered pooch out for a stroll. à 


The Birch is described to look like a hotel, and to feel like a festival. And 

I think this is quite an accurate description - a boutique festival mind, 

more Larmer Tree and Wilderness rather than Glastonbury. 

The number of classes and activities on offer is really what sets it 

apart from your more usual hotel stay, and with so much going on it is 

unstuffy and feels non-judgemental. Everyone is made to feel welcome 

and encouraged to give it a go, to try something new. With so much 

variety to choose from, every visit is likely to offer a personal and 

individual experience. Here’s how we spent our time... 

GETTING INTO THE GROOVE 

The sun was shining so once we had settled in we headed out onto 

the lawn where we had our own evening BBQ pit. You have the option 

to book a BBQ pit by day or by evening, with both meat and veg 

boxes available - it’s a DIY-style affair, although you’re provided with 

instructions, tongs, and all the treats you need. We also had our QR 

code to hand, given to us when we checked in - this was the link to our 

food ordering app, another unique idea from The Birch’s chef Robin 

Gill who wanted to create new ways for guests to feast on food. You 

simply order your food and drinks from the online menus, then collect 

from Valeries who will call or text you when it’s ready. You can then 

choose to sit and dine in the restaurant, or, take your food away and 

eat wherever you like. You are encouraged to quite literally eat and 

drink anywhere, be it on a deckchair in the movie room, on a blanket or 

hammock in the back lawn, or even in the Library. 

There is plenty of space and beautifully furnished rooms to 

choose from - especially in the Grade ll-listed Mansion House with 

its impressive entrance, mosaic floors, grand staircase and original 

paintings uncovered on some of the ceilings during the two-year-long 

renovation. In fact, we spent much of our first evening exploring the 


ooms, wandering our way through the creative 

corridors, stopping in at the games room, popping 

our head into the pottery studio, and taking a peek 

at the think pods, art studios and music rooms. 

Originally The Birch was home to the eccentric 

Victorian socialite Lady Meux, who it is claimed, 

used to ride through Mayfair in a zebra-drawn 

carriage, once had a menagerie and her own roller 

skating rink at the house (now the wellness space - 

a separate building just across from the Mansion). 

ACTIVITIES AND CLASSES 

First on our activities schedule, Wild Yoga outdoors 

on the lawn. We were lucky with the weather, it was 

a beautiful morning. The stretching and the sound 

of the gentle breeze through the trees restored our 

energy and set us up for the day ahead. 

Following a coffee and breakfast from The Store 

we popped into the bakery for one of their drop-in 

sessions and joined the bakers in one of their daily 

rituals making delicious sourdough. We enjoyed it 

so much that we returned in the afternoon where 

we made Pain au chocolat. 

One of my highlights was attending a guided 

nature walk with farmer Tom Morphew around the 

Birch grounds. Tom’s passion for nature and biodiversity 

and knowledge in his field was fascinating. 

We met his pigs, collected eggs from the chickens 

and admired the kitchen-garden. 

Tom explained his vision, and how together 

with chef Robin Gill, they had ambitious plans to 

grow much more estate-made produce and be 

as self-sustainable as possible. Tom also told us 

about the garden walkabouts and farmer days he 

would be launching, where he’ll be teaching guests 

how to grow and compost as well as forage in the 

woodland. 

You can’t leave The Birch without trying 

something new, for me, this was Watercolour 

botanicals. Illustrator Katie Rose Johnston led 

the workshop designed to help you relax and 

unwind through painting. Inspired by the flowers 

and nature surrounding Birch we learned some 

simple techniques to paint plants and foliage in 

watercolour. 

I took a look around the Wellness Centre, it 

was fully kitted out with state-of-the-art fitness 

equipment - and is a huge space. As is often the 

case in hotels there was no-one actually working 

out there at the time. I imagine when they open the 

eagerly anticipated Lido - a 25-metre outdoor pool 

surrounded by nature with poolside BBQ and Lido 

bar - it will become more popular. 

“The number 

of classes and 

activities on 

offer is really 

what sets it 

apart from your 

more usual hotel 

stay, and with 

so much going 

on it is unstuffy 

and feels nonjudgemental. 

Everyone is 

made to feel 

welcome and 

encouraged to 

give it a go, to 

try something 

new. ” 

THE ZEBRA RIDING CLUB 

The culinary heartbeat of The Birch, The Zebra 

Riding Club restaurant is a much more ‘normal’ 

dining experience than that of the grab-and-go 

concept at Valeries. Here you must book a table 

in advance, you then order from the waiter or 

waitress, and dine in the restaurant. With much of 

the produce from the growing farm, woods, and 

local surroundings, the unfussy menu is described 

as being led by nature. I ordered oysters sourced 

fresh from Achill Island off the West Coast of 

Ireland and they were delicious. 

THE FUTURE 

The Birch (handle.silk.comet) is the first to open, 

with no secret that the vision is to roll out the 

concept with further hotels launching close to 

other major cities across the UK. And you could 

suggest the timing is impeccable too, with more 

people searching for work-life balance following 

the coronavirus pandemic lockdown having had 

an opportunity to reflect while on Furlough. Plus, 

with more businesses closing their offices and 

previous commuters now working from home, The 

Birch might also fulfil the demand for a co-working 

sociable space, especially important for those in the 

media and creative industries. So the questions is, 

could this community-centred creative work-play 

hub become the hotel of the future? Personally I am 

one of the lovers (not haters) - I really enjoyed my 

time at The Birch and I definitely plan to return. u 


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A hotel with all the glamour and style of a superyacht 

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The Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar has been 

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Relax on seats covered in the softest leather and watch the 

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Experience beautifully prepared dishes bursting with 

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Vouchers range from cocktails for 2 to Afternoon Tea 

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All vouchers are valid for 24 months so plenty of time to 

arrange your visit. u 

To purchase a voucher visit www.fingal.co.uk or 

call us on 0131 357 5000. 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 07 

ACROSS 

8 Tree whose product is used in 

making soap (3,4) 

9 Symbol of Christmas (4,3) 

10 Card game or brandy (8) 

11 Wifely word (6) 

12 Grand National site (7) 

13 Point at the western end of the 

Jurassic Coast (7) 

14 Invasion vessels of 1944 (1,1,2) 

17 Loch with the Falls of Lora at 

its mouth (5) 

19 Fake (4) 

23 Chairs fit for kings (7) 

24 Skye's --- Hills (7) 

25 Major West Country rock 

festival (6) 

26 Fantastic liar (8) 

27 Unthankful person (7) 

28 The Farne ---, where the 

Forfarshire was wrecked (7) 

DOWN 

1 Westernmost English county (8) 

2 Movable rope fastening (4,4) 

3 Tars (7) 

4 Full of oneself (8) 

5 Dive (8) 

6 Preludes to conflict (8) 

7 Female personification of the 

United States (8) 

15 Where 10 Across died (2,6) 

16 Residents north of the Mersey 

(8) 

17 Theme you messed up for a 

Berwickshire town (8) 

18 Memorial in front of Buckingham 

Palace (8) 

20 Approximately the last 10,000 

years (8) 

21 Port in the north of Angus (8) 

22 Of considerable proportion (7) 

Answers will be printed in the Spring Issue out 5 February 2021 

The first correct crossword received will be rewarded with a free gift from 

The Travelling Reader. Simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) 

with your choice of The Original, The London, or Simply British Tastes box, 

(thetravellingreader.com) and your postal address, by post to British Travel 

Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, 

SO31 9HP, or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

W E LOVE 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 06 | SUMMER 2020 

ACROSS: 9 Neutron 10 Abusive 11 Inductees 12 Ethic 13 At a gallop 

15 Major 16 Portchester 20 Osier 22 Yorkshire 24 Lucid 25 Gravelled 26 

Kashmir 27 Glutton. DOWN: 1 Anti-war 2 Tundra 3 Armchair 4 Inverlochy 5 

Oaks 6 Museum 7 Nightjar 8 Keycard 14 Prearrange 16 Princess 17 Tossed up 

18 Hoylake 19 Leading 21 Radome 23 Islets 25 Gore. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

Books, travel gadgets and crossword 

SAFETY WITH STYLE 

Initially set up to provide free bicycle lights for 

students in Stockholm, Bookman has launched 

some brand-new colourways. Whether cycling, 

running, walking the dog, or taking a midnight 

stroll, these super-convenient and popular 

magnetic reflectors are as stylish as they are safe. 

bookman.se 


SNOOOZE PILLOW 

This Danish-designed Snoooze pillow (spelt 

with three 'o's) is a hygienic luxury travel pillow 

that can be used both on the go and at your 

final destination. With ‘hygiene’ fast becoming 

the new ‘hygge’, could this be the new travel 

essential? Available in UK airports and online. 

snooozeworld.com 

NATURE LOVERS 

With birding on the rise in the UK 

and wildlife enthusiasts spending 

more time outdoors, Swarovski’s new 

visionary NL Pure Binoculars are 

designed to provide the best possible 

image for long-distance viewing. 

swarovskioptik.com 

MOUNTAIN MAN 

James Forrest broke records when he 

climbed all 446 Mountains in England 

and Wales in just six months. Read his 

captivating and amazing story - and be 

inspired to embark on your own adventure, 

no matter how big or small! £16.99 

blackwells.co.uk

SHOP 

DISCOVER 

LEARN 

Welcome to the oldest teashop in London. 

Our Twinings historical flagship store is over 300 years old. SHOP with us for your 

favourite tea blends, gifts and premium teas from all around the world. DISCOVER new 

flavours at our refurbished, state-of-the-art Loose Leaf Tasting Bar or LEARN something 

new at one of our Tea Masterclasses – visit our website for more information.

DESIGNED & MADE IN ORKNEY, SCOTLAND 

Seasons 

WINTER 

Inspired by special memories 

as Sheila and her husband, 

Rick, walked through falling 

leaves on the paths of 

Inverewe’s tranquil gardens. 

Created in silver, with 

yellow and rose gold leaves, 

hand-enamelled in Winter hues. 

Also available in Spring, Summer 

and Autumn enamel colours. 

Book an Appointment 

Discuss your designer ring and jewellery 

options with a one-to-one appointment. 

Book online at sheilafleet.com/shops 

ORKNEY | EDINBURGH | GLASGOW 

01856 861 203 | sheilafleet.com

British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2021

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