REVOLUTION_In_Time_Best_Of_2020

IN TIME: BEST OF 2020

USA 56 SUPPLEMENT

NOT FOR SEPERATE SALE

CELEBRATING 70

YEARSOFTHE

PANERAI LUMINOR

AUDEMARS PIGUET

RETURNS TO

CODE 11.59

BULGARI’S BOLD

NEW WORLD

IN TIME: BEST OF 2020

THE

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

SENATOR CHRONOMETER

TOURBILLON – LIMITED EDITION

Precision Reimagined

2020-08-20 8:20 AM

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T H E A R T O F F U S I O N

BIG BANG TOURBILLON

Sapphire case. In-house skeleton

tourbillon movement with a 5-day

power reserve. Limited to 99 pieces.

BOUTIQUES

FIFTH AVENUE • BEVERLY HILLS

BAL HARBOUR • MIAMI

LAS VEGAS • PALM BEACH

DALLAS • ORLANDO • HOUSTON

SAN FRANCISCO • SCOTTSDALE

Tel: +1 (646) 582 9813

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46

GLASHÜTTE

Original Senator

Chronometer

Tourbillon Limited

Edition — Precision

Reimagined

10 Accutron

11 Alpina

12 Audemars Piguet

14 Bell & Ross

16 Wei Koh’s Top Five Picks

22 Blancpain

24 Breguet

26 Breitling

27 Bulova

28 Bvlgari

30 Cartier

32 Casio

33 Chanel

34 Chopard

36 Citizen

37 Chronoswiss

38 Corum

39 De Bethune

40 Dior

42 Ferdinand Berthoud

43 Franck Muller

44 Frederique Constant

45 Girard-Perregaux

54 2020: The Color of Time

56 Grand Seiko

58 Greubel Forsey

60 Gucci

62 H. Moser & Cie

63 Hamilton

64 Harry Winston

65 Hermès

66 HYT

67 Hublot

68 IWC

70 Jacob & Co

71 Jaeger-LeCoultre

73 Jaquet Droz

74 Laurent Ferrier

75 Le Rhöne

76 Watches of Switzerland:

Multiple Choice

78 Longines

80 Louis Monet

81 MB&F

82 Montblanc

83 Nomos Glashütte

84 Omega

86 Oris

87 Parmigiani Fleurier

88 Panerai

90 Patek Philippe

92 Piaget

93 Rado

94 Hunting for Best Values

96 Reservoir

97 Richard Mille

98 Roger Dubuis

100 Rolex

101 Seiko

102 Tudor

104 TAG Heuer

106 Ulysse Nardin

108 URWERK

109 Vacheron Constantin

110 Van Cleef & Arpels

111 Zenith

112 Zodiac

The Watchfinder x Revolution collaboration was initiated to educate,

uplift and entertain while curating the best selection of our favourite timepieces

that we happen to know are the right choices and the coolest watches.

Some might be well known and others more obscure, but once you read

about the watches, you’ll understand what makes each and every one, great.

Revolution.Watch will then present you with the option to purchase these

pre-owned watches at great prices, reflecting their market value and, most

importantly, with the absolute guarantee of their perfect function and

authenticity, backed by a 14-day return policy and a full 12-month Watchfinder

& Co. warranty, alongside any pre-existing manufacturer’s warranty.

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EDITORIAL

FOUNDER & EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Wei Koh @wei_koh_revolution

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Adam Craniotes

MANAGEMENT

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Walter Tommasino walter@revolutionmagazines.com

LINE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephen Watson stephen@revolutionmagazines.com

GLOBAL CONTENT COORDINATOR

Stephanie Ip stephanie@revolutionmagazines.com

EDITOR, REVOLUTION ONLINE

Sumit Nag sumit@revolutionmagazines.com

HEAD, SPECIAL PROJECTS & MANAGING EDITOR, ONLINE

Kevin Cureau kevin@revolutionmagazines.com

SUB-EDITORS

Catherine Koh & Eileen Sim

LIFESTYLE EDITOR

Yong Wei Jian weijian@revolutionmagazines.com

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

Punam Nikki Rai nikki@revolutionmagazines.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Atom Moore

Orland Punzalan

MANAGING DIRECTOR

Maria Lim maria@revolutionmagazines.com

SENIOR PUBLISHER

Nathalie Naintre nathalie@revolutionmagazines.com

INTERNATIONAL TRAFFIC COORDINATOR

Christina Koh christina@revolutionmagazines.com

HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGER

Yvonne Koh yvonne@revolutionmagazines.com

FINANCE MANAGER

Jay Wong jaywong@revolutionmagazines.com

ACCOUNTANT

Sandy Tan finance@revolutionmagazines.com

INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS

ASIA Wei Koh

AUSTRALIA Felix Scholz

CHINA Taitan Chen

HONG KONG Stephanie Ip

ITALY Maurizio Favot

MEXICO Israel Ortega

LATIN AMERICA Israel Ortega

RUSSIA DenisPeshkov

UAE JolaChudy

UK RossPovey

VISUAL

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Darius Lee darius@revolutionmagazines.com

PHOTOGRAPHER-AT-LARGE

Munster munster@revolutionmagazines.com

DIGITAL IMAGING ARTIST

KH Koh

PHOTOGRAPHER

Toh Si Jia

VIDEOGRAPHER

Don Torres

ON THE COVER

Glashütte Original

Senator Chronometer Tourbillon — Limited Edition

with flying tourbillon with a stop-second

mechanism, zero reset, and minute detent

Photography Atom Moore, Munster, Toh Si Jia

Styling by Revolution

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Low Sze Wei szewei@revolutionmagazines.com

REVHLUTION is published quarterly by

Revolution Media Pte Ltd.

All rights reserved. © 2020 by Revolution Media

Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without

permission is prohibited.

Opinions expressed in REVHLUTION are solely

those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed

by the publisher and its editors.

Editorial enquiries should be directed to the Editor.

While every reasonable care will be undertaken by

the Editor, unsolicited materials will not be returned

unless accompanied by a self-addressed envelope

and sufficient return postage.

For other enquiries, contact:

info@revolutionmagazines.com

For circulation and distribution, contact:

circulation@revolutionmagazines.com

PPS 1609/06/2013 (025530) MCI (P) 037/12/2018 ISSN 1793-463x

USA circulation, marketing and operations: Frank Ruiz and Carlos

Garcia, CircSense Marketing & Publishing Solutions

REVHLUTION USA Pte Ltd South Miami FL 33143 USA, Tel: 305 608

1460. REVOLUTION (ISSN # 1793-463x) Fall 2020, USA issue 103.

REVOLUTION is published quarterly by Revolution Media Private

Limited, The Mill, 5 Jalan Kilang #04-01 Singapore 159405. Agent for

this publication is CircSense Publishing Solutions, LLC, 16245 SW 81st

Terr., Miami, FL 33193. Periodicals postage paid at Miami, FL and at

additional mailing offices. SUBSCRIPTION PRICES: US$79.95 per year

in the US; US$74.95 per year in Canada.

THE MODERN VOICE OF CLASSIC ELEGANCE

Read, shop, subscribe.

TheRake.com

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A Lange & Söhne

EDITOR’S

NOTE

t’s been one hell of a year.

Daily life, for all its beauty and mundanity,

has become a lesson about the curse of living in

interesting times. And as we all continue settling into

our new routines and our new realities — our new

world, really — Revolution is continuing to reflect. One question

that keeps popping up: How can we be more sensitive while

discussing expensive watches, especially when most of them

remain a pipe dream for all but a few lucky readers?

These types of conversations take me back to being a junior

editor, when I worked for a high-end fashion magazine with

a gigantic circulation. We’d often get letters from readers

containing some form of the following critique: “I look at your

pages and nobody can afford the clothing, or even fit into it.

Nobody gets to live like that.”

Fair enough. Our reply was always the same. We were

providing entertainment, a bit of escapist magic, through the

work of designers and artisans, as filtered through the lens of our

point of view. We were, essentially, offering more reasons

to dream.

The best magazines, I think, always suspend reality to a

certain degree. They fuel the imagination. They can bring a

little hope.

Are those feelings worth any less if you can’t actually hang

them in your closet? Or wear them on your wrist? I would argue

not. At my last Baselworld appointment with Patek Philippe, I

had a moment of clarity where I realized I would never be able

to afford one. Not even what would be considered entry-level.

It hasn’t stopped me from marveling at everything the company

creates, from the ultra-desirable Nautilus to the latest Grand

Complications. I continue to be amazed at auction prices,

dazzled by each new record-breaker, knowing I will never sit in

that room waiting to bid. It only drives my fascination further. I

remember that I am still allowed to dream.

That means something, especially right now. Yes, the

trade fairs were canceled this year, as were the face-to-face

appointments with brands. Sure, there were fewer new watches

debuted than in the past. But working on this Best of 2020 issue

offered both respite and reverie. Hopefully, reading it does the

same thing for you. As the great fashion editor Diana Vreeland

used to say: “There’s only one thing in life, and that’s the

continual renewal of inspiration.”

In that spirit, we’ve included a remarkable diversity of pieces

among our featured collections. On the following pages, you’ll

find something for all tastes, from outer-space Accutron cool to

deep-sea Zodiac swagger. As ever, the insight from our editors

and contributors is incisive and affecting. And whatever 2020’s

class of new watches lacks in quantity, it makes up for twice over

in quality. (Seriously. The designs are stronger than ever.)

Maybe you own one of them already. Maybe you will

someday. Maybe not. But I find that viewing things through

that lens can be limiting. Nothing — even the curse of such

interesting times — can stop me from appreciating creativity in

all its forms, getting lost in all the possibilities, harboring hopes

about the future, suspending reality for a moment to dream, or

feeling lucky every day that I have the opportunity to do so.

Stephen Watson, Editor-in-Chief

stephen@revolutionmagazines.com

Just in case you were still on the fence about the Lange 1,

one of the true icons of modern watchmaking, our friends

at Glashütte have, once again, developed a new version

of the watch — yet another reason to surrender yourself to the

enchantment and prodigious techniques that set this and every

other Lange apart. The name of the new Lange 1 Time Zone

eloquently tells us what its mission is: to show, simultaneously,

the time in different parts of the world, in addition to the

reference time (usually that of home). Among the changes that

show its evolution, the new watch adds a setting for regions

and incorporates the daylight-savings-time exemptions. On

the asymmetrical dial, the Lange 1 Time Zone watch offers two

subdials to display the time — usually the home time at

nine o’clock and the reference time at five o’clock — as well

as a big date and a classic Up-Down winding indicator. The

rotatable cities ring allows for a convenient adjustment of the

second time zone, while the crown adjusts the time for both time

zones simultaneously. Finally, subtle day-and-night indicators

were added to the two subdials by means of a clever system of

rotating discs.

Now, let’s turn our attention to the Odysseus, Lange’s first

official incursion into the sports watch category. Launched at the

end of 2019 in a steel version with a blue dial and a rubber strap,

LANGE 1 TIME ZONE

Ref:136.032, 136,029 and 136.021

Movement: Manual-winding L141.1,

off-center hours, minutes, small seconds;

second time zone; daylight-time indication;

big date; 72-hour power reserve

Case: Rose, white or yellow gold, 41.9

mm, water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Alligator leather

Price: USD52,900 (rose and white gold

versions)

USD56,100 (yellow gold, 200-pc LE)

ODYSSEUS WHITE GOLD

Ref: 363.038

Movement: Manual-winding L155.1,

hours, minutes; small seconds; oversized

day and date; 72-hour power reserve

Case: White gold, 40.5 mm, waterresistant

to 120m

Strap: Calf leather or rubber

Price: USD40,600

the collection has now been expanded: the second reference

in the series now combines a 40.5mm white-gold case with a

slate-grey dial. The readability of the watch accompanies its

perfect aesthetics, with the numerals on the big date and the

letters on the day-of-the-week display standing out in white.

The push-pieces for correcting the date and day of the week

(located above and below the crown) give the white-gold case

(composed of three parts) its striking shape, integrated with

the rest of the case. The integrated strap is available in either

hand-sewn leather or black rubber. There are no changes to the

L155.1 Datomatic movement, of course. The automatic winding

mechanism has a platinum oscillating mass to give the watch its

maximum reserve of 50 hours.

It’s quite amazing that a new minute repeater, exceptional

as it is, is just another one of the novelties Lange has for us this

year. Brief backstory: in 2015, Lange debuted the first reference

of the minute repeater in the Zeitwerk. At that time, it became the

only watch in the world to combine a mechanical digital display

of the hours and minutes with a decimal minute repeater. This

complicated watch, into which several months are invested for

assembly, was only available exclusively in platinum, but now, five

years after its introduction, you can get your hands on a whitegold

edition with a dark-blue dial, limited to 30 pieces.

ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER GOLD

Reference Number: 147.128

Movement: Mechanical hand-wound,

L043.5, digital jumping hours, minutes;

small seconds; decimal minute repeater;

36-hour power reserve

Case: White gold, 44.2 mm, waterresistant

to 30m


Price: On request, boutique-only limited

edition of 30 pieces

IN TIME 9

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Accutron

Alpina

Launched during the ’60s era, the Accutron was

the world’s first fully electronic watch. Now with

improved technology and a new look, Bulova’s

Accutron is back for 2020, ready to captivate a new

generation with electrostatic energy. Instead of the

usual balance wheel, the original timekeeping function

acquired its power from a 360Hz tuning fork powered

by a one-transistor electronic oscillator, replacing the

ordinary tick-tock with humming emanating from the

innovative tuning-fork technology. The original models

with visible inner workings were salesman samples

created to show off the new technology; consumers

immediately took to the space-age look that still looks

modern today. The open-dial models have become fierce

collector’s items, and the launch of Accutron’s Spaceview

and Legacy collections will only fuel collectors’ desire

— a happy return of a much-beloved and influential

collection.

TIMELINE

1875: Joseph Bulova officially forms his own watch

company

1919: Bulova introduces its first line of jewelled men’s

timepieces

1924: Bulova debuts its first full collection of jewelled

wristwatches for women

1941: Bulova changes the spirit of marketing with America’s

first radio and TV commercials

1945: The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking is

founded to provide veterans with training after the Second

World War

1960: Bulova’s Accutron debuts

1969: A Bulova timer gets placed in the Sea of Tranquility

during the first moonwalk

2008: Citizen acquires the Bulova Watch Company

2016: Bulova introduces the first curved chronograph

movement

In 1883, Gottlieb Hauser founded Alpina in Geneva. Besides

the fledgling watch brand, he also founded the Union

Horlogère Suisse (the Swiss Watchmakers Corporation),

with the intention of uniting the various industry players in joint

purchases and to establish a network of distributors around the

world. Twenty-five years later, Alpina was a registered name,

along with the red triangle emblem and a commitment to

quality watchmaking.

As you might expect from a brand named for snowy and

inhospitable alpine peaks, Alpina is known primarily for its

reliable professional sports watches. This isn’t a new direction

for a brand that, way back in 1938, had laid down the principles

of the Alpina 4 watch, a set of guidelines that broadly define a

modern sport watch. These guidelines dictated that such a watch

should have the characteristics of anti-magnetism, anti-shock,

water-resistance and be made from stainless steel. And while

these traits are seemingly unremarkable in 2020, back in 1938,

these were some pretty cutting-edge characteristics.

Throughout the subsequent decades, Alpina has continued

this mission, making rugged and reliable watches, from the

Seastrong 10 Diver through to bold, sporty chronographs in

cushion cases. But the tidal wave of the quartz revolution that

devastated the traditional Swiss watch industry meant that

Alpina’s star was somewhat waning. That is, until 2002, when

the brand got its second wind under new owners. By 2006,

Alpina was back in Geneva and producing no-nonsense tool

watches that lived up to the spirit of the brand and, more

importantly, the Alpina 4 principles.

Today, the Alpina collection is primarily divided into the

realms of sea, land and sky, under the Seastrong, Alpiner and

Startimer collections. There is another interesting addition in

Alpina’s lineup: the Horological Smartwatch, first released in

2015, which shows that the brand’s commitment to cutting-edge

sport watches has kept up with the times.

REFERENCE NUMBER: 261

Movement: Accutron Swiss-made

26-jewel movement

Function Hours, minutes and seconds

Case: Silver or gold-tone stainless-steel

case; 38.5mm

Strap: Black leather strap with doublepress

deployant closure or three-link

bracelet with double-press deployant

closure

Price: USD1,390 / USD1,550; 600-piece

limited edition

ELECTROSTATIC ENERGY

COLLECTION

Reference Number: Spaceview 2020

Movement: Accutron electrostatic

energy movement


Case: Stainless-steel case

Strap: Fine black leather strap

Price: USD3,450

REFERENCE NUMBER: DAY AND DATE

“Q”

Movement: Accutron Swiss-made

26-jewel movement


Case: Silver or gold-tone stainless-steel

case; 34.5mm

Strap: White-accent stitched dark-blue

leathergrain strap

Price: USD1,390; 600-piece limited

edition

ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER GYRE

Movement: Calibre AL-525; automatic;

hours, minutes and seconds; date

Case: Two-part case made with recycled

PA 6 and fiberglass; unidirectional

stainless-steel bezel in black PVD; 44mm

diameter, 12.15mm thick; water resistant

to 300m.

Strap: Two-tone blue NATO strap made

from RPET (recycled plastic bottles)

Price: USD1,595, limited to 1,883 pieces

ALPINER QUARTZ GMT

Movement: AL-247 quartz calibre; hours,

minutes and seconds; date; GMT.

Case: Stainless steel; 42mm; water

resistant to 100m.

Band: Stainless steel

Price: USD970 (strap) or USD1,080

(bracelet)

ALPINAX ALIVE

Movement: Calibre MMT-283-1; more

than two years of battery life; hours,

minutes and seconds; date; numerous

connected functions.

Case: Fibreglass and stainless steel;

45mm; sapphire crystal; water resistant

to 100m

Strap: Rubber

Price: USD795 and up

10 IN TIME

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Audemars Piguet

Everyone knows the story of the Royal Oak — how it was born in 1972 in the

hands of Gérald Genta; a steel sports watch that commanded prices way

above precious gold and garnered criticism initially before things took a

turn and, in the following decades, grew in popularity. Today, the ref. 15202, the

continuation of the first ref. 5402, has become a grail watch for many collectors.

But AP is more than just the Royal Oak — a point the brand has in recent months

revisited with the launch of a book on its complicated wristwatches, the opening

of its museum, and the release of the Code 11.59, a collection that AP hopes very

much will become the younger sibling to the distinctive Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet was established in 1875 in Le Brassus in the heart of

the Vallée-de-Joux by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward August Piguet,

and was one of the very first manufactures to gain the expertise in making

complications (the other was Patek Philippe). By 1915, it had set the world

record for the smallest five-minute repeater movement, a record it still holds

today. In 1992, Audemars Piguet acquired a stake in Renaud et Papi, who

began to help the company build many of its high complications, including the

ones found in the subsequent Royal Oak Concept line.

Currently under the helm of François-Henry Bennahmias and still familyowned,

Audemars Piguet has proved that it is unmatched in the market when

it comes to ultramodern and cutting-edge complicated timepieces. The Royal

Oak RD#2, the Perpetual Calendar Openworked in black ceramic, and yes,

even the Code 11.59, prove that the brand is as bold and audacious as ever. Its

motto says it all: “To break the rules, you must first master them.”

TIMELINE

1875: Company established by Jules

Audemars and Edward Piguet

1899: AP creates its first ‘Grande

Complication’ pocket watch

1915: Sets world record for smallest fiveminute

repeater movement

1955: Presents the first wristwatch

equipped with a perpetual calendar

(calibre VZSSQP)

1972: Gérald Genta designs the Royal

Oak for AP, the first high-end steel sports

watch

1986: Another world’s-first: the ultrathin

self-winding tourbillon wristwatch

(calibre 2870)

1992: The Royal Oak Offshore is born

2000: The Tradition d’Excellence

collection, showcasing both traditional

and innovative complications, is born

2002: The Royal Oak Concept is

launched in time for the Royal Oak’s 30th

anniversary

2009: Manufacture des Forges opens in

Le Brassus

2015: Releases its first pure concept

watch, the Royal Oak Concept RD#1

Acoustic Research

2018: The launch of RD#2, the world’s

thinnest automatic perpetual calendar in

the world

2019: The Code 11.59 by Audemars

Piguet collection is launched

2020: The Audemars Piguet Museum

opens, and the [Re]Master01

Chronograph is born

[RE]MASTER01 SELF-WINDING

FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH

Movement: Self-winding 4409; hours,

minutes and seconds; chronograph; 70-

hour power reserve

Case and dial: Stainless steel and pink

gold with a yellow-gold-toned dial;

40mm; water resistant to 20m

Strap: Light-brown calfskin and darkbrown

alligator

Price: USD53,100; 500-piece limited

edition

ROYAL OAK 34MM


minutes and seconds; date; 50-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: Stainless steel; 34mm

diameter; 8.8mm thickness; white petite

tapisserie dial; water resistant to 50m

Strap: Matching bracelet with AP folding

clasp

Price: USD18,300

CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET

SELFWINDING 41MM


minutes and seconds; date; 70-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: 18K pink-gold casemiddle

with 18K white-gold bezel;

41mm; smoked grey lacquered dial;

water resistant to 30m

Strap: Black alligator leather with 18K

white-gold pin buckle

Price: USD26,800

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELFWINDING

CHRONOGRAPH

Movement: Self-winding 3126/3840;

hours and minutes; small seconds; date;

chronograph; 50-hour power reserve

Case and dial: Black ceramic with blue

ceramic bezel; 44mm diameter; 14.4mm

thickness; smoked blue dial; water

resistant to 100m

Strap: Blue rubber with ‘textile

decoration’, titanium pin buckle

Price: USD34,900

CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET

SELFWINDING CHRONOGRAPH 41MM


minutes and seconds; date; flyback


Case and dial: 18K white-gold case with

smoked burgundy lacquered dial; 41mm;


Strap: Burgundy alligator leather with

18K white-gold pin buckle

Price: USD42,400

ROYAL OAK CONCEPT FROSTED GOLD

FLYING TOURBILLON

Movement: Manual-winding 2964; hours

and minutes; flying tourbillon; 72-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: Hammered 18K pink-gold

case; 38.5mm; multi-layered gradated

blue dial; water resistant to 20m

Strap: Blue alligator leather with AP

folding clasp and additional shiny blue

textured rubber strap

Price: On request

12 IN TIME

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Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross was born out of the vivid imagination and

united vision of two of the most down-to-earth

gentlemen in the Swiss watchmaking industry, Bruno

Belamich and Carlos Rosillo. The two men have been friends

since their days in school. What is extraordinary is that their

actual time together in the same school, in Paris, was a mere

year. But that’s really all it took to convince them that they were

destined to end up working together, further down the line.

Their paths crossed again after Belamich had graduated

from design school and Rosillo had finished his business

degree and had worked for some years in finance. Together

they envisioned a watch brand based on the military- and

aviation-style watches that had captured their imagination

since childhood.

In 1992, they started Bell & Ross with a $20,000

investment. Initially they collaborated with Sinn, who

fabricated their watches for them during the early years. The

brand made big news in 1997 when it created the Hydromax,

a liquid-filled quartz watch that descended to 11,000 meters

below sea level. The buzz they generated brought suitors and

that same year Chanel made a strategic investment in the brand.

Even then, it’s safe to say that Belamich and Rosillo had no idea

just how fast and how big Bell & Ross was about to become in

the span of 28 years.

In 2020, Bell & Ross has established itself as a staple name

in the universe of Swiss watchmaking, providing great value and

an aesthetic offering that is categorically unique. Their square

case with beveled edges and corners, held together by four

screws, is a visual identity that you could spot from a mile away.

The vast majority of the brand’s collection of watches today are

based on this very form factor. There are a few round watches

that deviate from this yet those, too, very much retain the highly

legible and tool watch design approach of Bell & Ross.

Having said that, we should note that the brand isn’t one

that’s overtly set in its ways. This it has demonstrated with the

launch of the BR 05 in 2019, which adapts the Bell & Ross

signature design and military/tool watch aesthetic to an elegant,

urban chic one — proving once again that great design can

be pulled and stretched in every direction to suit an end goal,

without it becoming unrelatable.

BR 05 SKELETON BLUE

Ref: BR05A-BLU-SKST/SST

Movement: Self-winding BR-CAL.322;

hours, minutes and seconds; 40-hour

power reserve

Case: 40mm; satin-finished and polished

steel; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Ribbed blue rubber or satinfinished

and polished steel

Price and availability: USD6,900; limited


BR 03-92 HUD

Ref: BR0392-HUD-CE/SRB


hours, minutes and seconds; date; 40-

hour power reserve

Case: 42mm; matte black ceramic with

green-tinted sapphire crystal; waterresistant

to 100m

Strap: Black rubber and ultra-resilient

black synthetic fabric



BR 05 BLACK STEEL & GOLD

Ref: BR05A-BL-STPG/SSG



hour power reserve

Case: 40mm; 18K rose gold and steel;

water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Ribbed black rubber or two-tone

18K rose gold and steel bracelet

Price: USD10,900

BR 03-92 DIVER FULL LUM

Ref: BR0392-D-C5-CE/SRB



hour power reserve

Case: 42mm; matte black ceramic with

luminescent green dial painted with

Super-LumiNova; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Woven black rubber and fabric



BR-X1 R.S.20

Ref: BRX1-RS20/SRB


hours and minutes; subsidiary seconds;

skeletonized date; chronograph;

tachymeter; 40-hour power reserve

Case: 45mm; satin-polished titanium and

ceramic; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Perforated black rubber



BR-X1 TOURBILLON R.S.20

Ref: BRX1-CHTB-RS20/SRB

Movement: Manual-winding BR-

CAL.283; hours and minutes;

chronograph; flying tourbillon; four-day

power reserve

Case: 45mm; satin-polished titanium and

ceramic; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Perforated black rubber

Price and availability: USD194,000;

limited edition of five pieces

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MyTOPFIVEWatches

of 2020 (So Far)

definitely do not have. And that’s the reason I love this

watch. It is pure escapist fare. Most likely, I will never

own it because I can’t afford it right now, but damn, it

is so good.

Because of the quick-release system for the

bracelet, you can easily switch between this and the

rubber strap. Say, for example, you’re scheduled to

attend a slightly louche but very cool soirée where a

little horological extroversion might be de rigueur —

the gold bracelet perfectly fits the bill. However, if

you’re spending the day island-hopping, on a boat,

waterskiing or simply ensconced on your favourite

chaise lounge with the ever-present Behike clenched

between your teeth and a Negroni Sbagliato in hand

as you social isolate on your lawn, you might prefer

to switch to the far lighter and sportier rubber strap.

Peering into the depths of the hand-skeletonized

movement, you are reminded that there is no other

Swiss watchmaking firm as skilled in the excavation of

material, decoration and the finishing of bridges and

plates showcasing breathtaking sharp internal angles,

polishing and bevelling, than Vacheron Constantin.

1.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS

PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN

SKELETON

Revolution founder Wei Koh’s top five timepieces of 2020,

a year that none of us will ever forget.

Words Wei Koh

What the hell are you thinking, dude? For your five favorite watches

of 2020, you’ve picked a GMT/world-time watch during a period

when no one can travel; two dive watches when it is unlikely that

anyone is going diving; two sports-chic watches inspired by the golden

age of the Riviera, when the Riviera today has become a bastion of vulgar

expressions of wealth entirely out of touch with the current state of the world.

I can already hear your comments. But, let me just say that these are the five

watches that are also feeling the most optimistic about the world for various

reasons, and also the five watches that I would be happy to spend my everdiminishing

personal funds on this year. So without further ado, here are my

top five timepieces of 2020, a year that none of us will ever forget.

I’ve always been a fan of the Vacheron Constantin

Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar, which, at 40mm in

diameter and 8.1mm in thickness, is actually thinner

than both the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual

Calendar as well as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak

Perpetual Calendar. The model was initially launched

in a white gold and a slate-grey dial. But to me, the

watch really came into its own with the release of the

blue-dial version on a blue rubber strap with a rosegold

case.

Out of the various perpetual-calendar sports

watches, I like how the information is laid out here

best with a series of subdials with a full 48-month

leap-year cycle displayed at 12 o’clock. I was

convinced that there could be no more stylish

complicated sports-chic timepiece than this, but was

proven wrong with the release of the new skeletonized

version of the watch, now complete with a full rosegold

bracelet that is so damnably beautiful I cannot

stare too long at it for fear of parting with money that I

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2.

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS

BATHYSCAPHE MOKARRAN LIMITED

EDITION

I can’t think of anyone who has set eyes on Blancpain’s

stunning Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Mokarran —

made in just 50 pieces and sold exclusively in its NYC

and Las Vegas boutiques — and hasn’t been blown

away by it. And while many of the recent limitededition

Fifty Fathoms have been homages to the

model’s storied past with diving culture (as in the

case of the Barracuda), or with its military history

(exemplified by the MilSpec and the Air Command

models), the Mokarran is a wonderful departure.

Instead, it is purely an exercise in color, but one that

has resulted in one of the most drop-dead-gorgeous

dive watches in recent memory.

I think it’s just the sheer beauty of its color

combination, but it makes me smile. Blancpain has

achieved this result through the use of the Swatch

Group’s impressive acumen in material innovation.

Its 43mm grey case and bezel surround are made from

ceramic. But what’s wonderful is that Blancpain was

the first brand I recall that properly mastered brushing

and finishing ceramic, like the way it did with its

steel cases. Indeed, they’ve even made ceramic cases

that so closely approximate the look of steel that you

would be hard-pressed to tell the difference until you

notice their relative lightness. The bezel insert is also

crafted in matte ceramic and the grey elapsed-dive

time indices are made from liquid metal in a process

where the voids for the indices are created using laser

engraving, and then liquid metal is inserted while

still malleable. Because these voids are shaped like

inverted V’s, the liquid metal is permanently fixed

inside before the entire bezel is polished. The tone of

the bezel perfectly complements the stunning sunrayfinished

green dial, while on the back the white-gold

rotor is laser-engraved with a hammerhead shark.

Keeping things pure and clean, the dial is devoid of a

date indicator — a first for the Bathyscaphe reference.

The watch is driven by the calibre 1318, which features

three barrels — barrels one and two, and power

barrel three — and features a silicon hairspring and a

free-sprung balance. One thousand dollars from the

sale of each watch will be donated to the Mokarran

Protection Society in French Polynesia dedicated to

the conservation of hammerhead sharks.

3.

TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT

“NAVY BLUE”

Yes, I bought it — which was a stroke of good fortune,

as it apparently sold out worldwide in something like

two hours. Let me tell you why I feel it is the single best

value proposition in horology today.

From a design perspective, at 39mm, the size and

thickness of the watch are absolutely perfect. On a

bracelet, the fit on my wrist can only be described as

sublime. It might sound crazy, but there are two watch

brands whose timepieces you could put in my hand

while I’m blindfolded and I can tell you immediately

what they are: Rolex and Patek Philippe. They just

feel — for lack of a better word — “expensive”, in that

every element, crown, lug or buckle, feels perfectly

resolved. Well, I now need to add another brand to

that extremely short list — Tudor. Everything about

the Black Bay 58 is so perfectly executed: run your

fingers over the crown, and every one of its fluted

demarcations is pronounced, yet it’s smooth; the

action of the unidirectional rotating bezel is such a

pleasure to activate and listen to; the high-polished

bevels on the side of the lugs are absolutely ravishing

and create such a dynamic energy to the watch; the

bracelet, styled to look like a vintage riveted model,

is one of the very best in the business, as is the

deployment clasp. If I had one small gripe, it would

be that I wish they had added a fourth hole to the fine

adjustment. Locking and unlocking the deployent

clasp is an absolute pleasure.

There has been a lot of speculation about where

these bracelets are made. I notice on my bracelet

the presence of the letters “HF”, which may refer to

Hugeunin Freres, one of Switzerland’s most famous

case and bracelet makers. But, as you can imagine,

Tudor is keeping quiet on the subject. And then there

are all the things that may not be immediately obvious,

such as the fact that the bezel insert is crafted from

ceramic; the elapsed-dive indices in the bezel are

created by coating the laser-engraved voids with a

thin layer of PVD, then polishing the whole bezel;

and that inside, there is an in-house calibre MT5602

movement with a bi-directional rotor charging a

barrel with 70 hours of power reserve, a free-sprung

balance and a silicon hairspring. There is also the

incredible domed sapphire crystal, and the visual

impact of the watch.

While I have heard comments that it’s just a

change of color from the black model released last

year. I would stop you right there and say you’re

wrong. The entire identity of the watch expresses itself

in a different way — somehow more modern and cool

in execution versus the more retro-themed black

version — and the Pantone hue pays perfect homage

to the Marine Nationale “Snowflake” diving watches

with dials in a similar blue. As such, the name “Navy

Blue” has an amusing double meaning. The blue bezel

insert is quite a bit darker than the blue ceramic used

in the Pelagos Blue, making Tudor the first watch

company to create blue ceramic bezels in two distinct

colors. Now, factor in the price of the Black Bay Fifty-

Eight Blue, which is under four thousand US dollars,

and you have an unbeatable value proposition.

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4.

MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE

TITANIUM BLUE ON BEADS OF RICE

BRACELET

One of the more interesting GMT/world-time

watches to emerge from 2018 was an innovative watch

from Montblanc designed by Davide Cerrato named

the Geosphere. The dial of the watch features two half

domes: the top dome representing continents in the

Northern Hemisphere as viewed from space if you

were above the North pole, and the bottom dome for

continents in the Southern Hemisphere as viewed if

you were in space above the South pole. If you can

imagine being fixed in space and watching the world

from directly above and below its two poles, the world

would appear to be rotating in opposite directions;

and similarly, the two domes actually turn in opposite

directions. The rotational direction of the Earth is

prograde or progressing from west to east — which

means if viewed from above the North Pole, it rotates

counter-clockwise. From above the South Pole, this

rotation appears to be clockwise, and accordingly, the

dome for the Southern Hemisphere rotates clockwise.

Surrounding each of these domes are 24-hour rings

that are subdivided into daylight and night hours;

these are displayed with the daylight hours on the top

for the Northern Hemisphere; and the daylight hours

on the bottom for the Southern Hemisphere. This

means that if you are very good with geography, you

will be able to read time in all the 24 zones in one shot

in all the continents in the world. But there is also a

subdial at nine o’clock for a second time zone. Finally,

the continents are luminous and festooned with the

points for the Earth’s seven highest summits.

Until recently my favorite version of the Geosphere

was the bronze and green model that was created last

year, but I have to say that somehow, the titanium and

blue-dial model that was released this year is the most

appealing yet, and one of the best and most meaningful

watches of 2020. Why? Well, firstly in terms of

styling, the coolness of the titanium and blue dial with

clean, white Super-LumiNova liberally applied to

the cathedral hands, indices and all the continents,

brings a wonderful sense of tranquility to this complex

dial. Secondly, as it’s executed in titanium, the notinsubstantial

case (at 42mm in diameter and 12.8mm

in height) is now easy and lightweight. Thirdly, this

year, Montblanc launches what has to be the best

bracelet in recent memory that is a combination

of polished steel beads of rice in the centre and

solid titanium links at each side, which brings a

dimension of wonderful elegance and refinement to

the Geosphere. Fourthly, at around $6,200 for the

watch on the bracelet, it is excellent value. And finally,

in context of what we’ve experienced in the last six

months, there is no more salient reminder that all the

countries of the world need to co-exist on the planet,

and when we face something like the COVID-19

pandemic, we all face it together. And that makes me

really love the Geosphere, because it reminds me that

we are in this together.

5.

BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO

AUTOMATIC SATIN-POLISHED STEEL

I’ve been a fan of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo ever since

it was launched back in 2014 — so much so that twice,

in 2016 and this year, I teamed up with the great guys

at Bvlgari — in particular, CEO Jean-Christophe

Babin, Creative Director Fabrizio Buonamassa and

Managing Director of the Watch Division Antoine

Pin — to create special editions of the Octo Finissimo

for Revolution and The Rake. Ever since I set eyes on it,

I understood that this was one of the most innovative

and original designs in modern horology; one that

united incredible competences in making in-house

movements, dials, watchcases and bracelets to arrive

at the coolest sports chic watch of the last decade.

In order to achieve the incredible combination of

muscularity with the ultra-lithe 5.15mm-thick profile,

Bvlgari had to constantly innovate and find new ways

to case the watch. And I respect that over the last six

years, it has focused on alternative materials including

titanium, carbon fiber and ceramic; and when it

entered into the more traditional realm of materials

like gold or steel, it did so with modern sandblasted

treatments of the cases.

The latest version executed in a stunning contrast

of brushed and polished steel, at 6mm, with a screwdown

crown and water-resistant to 100m, and

perhaps most importantly, a price of USD12,000,

I finally realized the full magnitude of the Octo

Finissimo. Here was the real first true competitor to

the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ultra-Thin and the

Patek Philippe Nautilus that was a viable alternative

for three important reasons: firstly, from a credibility

perspective, it was probably the only competitor to

these entrenched icons that bears no resemblance to

them whatsoever. Indeed, the Octo Finissimo is as

modern, innovative and iconoclastic today as those

watches were in the context of the 1970s. Secondly,

from a value perspective, it is priced considerably

cheaper than those two watches, with a much more

modern movement; indeed, AP’s movement is based

on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 that was in the

original Royal Oak back in 1972. Finally, unlike the

other two watches, it is still available in authorized

retailers and boutiques, and not only for sale with a

major premium attached on secondary sales sites,

which is a hugely important factor. Because, just like

in the good old days if you’ve worked hard and saved

your money, then you can walk into a Bvlgari boutique

and actually buy one moments after reading this,

and not have to troll the internet to find some dodgy

reseller who will charge you a premium for access.

I feel that moving forward, every luxury brand will

be measured for its underlying ethics. And, in this case,

Bvlgari has been nothing but exemplary, most recently

creating a virus eradication fund and financing part of

the development of the COVID vaccine undertaken

by Oxford University. Should it make you feel better

because your watch was made by guys with great

underlying ethics? Yes, damn right it should.

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Blancpain

Blancpain was established in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain and the

brand stayed within the family for seven generations up until 1932. But

Blancpain’s success today is built on the efforts of several key members

outside the family. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who joined in 1950 to head the

company alongside his aunt Betty Fiechter, developed the Fifty Fathoms in 1953,

the first modern diving watch. The Fifty Fathoms was adopted by navies around

the world, worn famously by Jacques Cousteau, and remains one of Blancpain’s

most well-received collections today.

And then of course, there’s Jacques Piguet and Jean-Claude Biver, who

bought Blancpain in 1981, by then little more than just a name, and revived it

with a simple communication: “Since 1735 there has never been a Blancpain

quartz watch. And there never will be.” Under the leadership of Piguet and

Biver, Blancpain mastered six areas of the watchmaking arts, including ultrathin,

moonphase complications, the perpetual calendar, the split-seconds

chronograph, the tourbillon and the minute repeater.

In 1992, Swatch Group bought back the company, and since 2002, Marc A.

Hayek has been the CEO of Blancpain. Blancpain continues to flourish today

with its two key collections Villeret and Fifty Fathoms striking the perfect balance

between absolutely timeless and classical shapes, and peerless provenance in

naval timepiece history. Blancpain’s past connections with diving instruments

also means that today, the brand is deeply committed to protecting the ocean,

and has helped kick-start a number of environmental initiatives.

TIMELINE

1735: Jehan-Jacques Blancpain registers

himself as a watchmaker in the Villeret

village records

1815: Frédéric-Louis Blancpain, his

grandson, modifies the watch escapement

design and develops an ultra-thin

construction

1926: First automatic wristwatch, in

partnership with John Harwood

1932: Business sold to Betty Fiechter and

André Léal

1950: Jean-Jacques Fiechter joins in

1950, playing a key role in developing the

Fifty Fathoms which debuted in 1953

1961: Becomes part of the Sociét

Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (SSIH)

alongside Omega, Tissot and Lemania

1981: The Blancpain name is bought by

Jacques Piguet and Jean-Claude Biver

1983: Creates the world’s smallest

moonphase display

FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIQUE

TITANIUM

Movement: Self-winding Manufacture

1315; hours, minutes; date; 120-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: Satin-brushed titanium;

45mm; 15.40mm thick; black dial;


Strap: Satin-brushed titanium with triple

folding clasp

Price: USD14,200

FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIQUE

TITANIUM

Movement: Self-winding Manufacture

1315; hours, minutes; date; 120-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: Satin-brushed titanium;

45mm; 15.40mm thick; blue dial; waterresistant

to 300m


folding clasp

Price: USD14,200

FIFTY FATHOMS GRANDE DATE

TITANIUM

Movement: Self-winding 6918B, hours,

minutes; oversized date; 120-hour power

reserve

Case and dial: Titanium; 45mm;

16.27mm thick; black dial; waterresistant

to 300m


folding clasp

Price: USD18,300

VILLERET QUANTIÈME COMPLET IN

BLUE


minutes, seconds; date; day and month;

moon phases; 72-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 18K red gold; 40mm;

midnight blue dial; under-lug calendar

correctors; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: 18K red gold Mille Mailles bracelet

or blue alligator leather

Price: USD25,700 (leather strap) and

USD45,000 (bracelet)

BATHYSCAPHE MOKARRAN LIMITED

EDITION


minutes, seconds; 120-hour power

reserve

Case and dial: Satin-brushed black

ceramic; 43.6mm; unidirectional satinbrushed

black ceramic bezel with green

ceramic insert; green dial; water resistant

to 300m

Strap: Nylon fabric

Price: USD15,500

Limited edition of 50 pieces.

VILLERET ULTRAPLATE IN BLUE


minutes, seconds; date; 100-hour power

reserve


midnight blue dial; water-resistant to

30m

Strap: 18K red gold Mille Mailles bracelet

or blue alligator leather

Price: USD19,400 (leather strap) and

USD39,900 (bracelet)

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Breguet

It’s no exaggeration to say that Abraham-Louis Breguet

might be one of the greatest watchmakers of all time, and

that his contributions have left a mark on not just Breguet

the company, but the entire watchmaking history since 1775.

Breguet is credited for inventions such as the tourbillon, the

natural escapement, as well as the gong spring; his first great

breakthrough was the self-winding watch in 1780, when he

devised a system with a weight that acted like a pendulum inside

a pocket watch. He was a watchmaker to French aristocracy,

and counts Marie-Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte and

Tsar Alexander I as his clients. In the modern era, the brand

first had the backing of Investcorp, and since 1999, has been

part of Swatch Group. Breguet’s legacy was built not only on

the quality and complexity of its internal workings, but its

design also hugely influenced the industry. Breguet hands and

Breguet numerals remain very much part of our watchmaking

vocabulary today.

TIMELINE

1780: Breguet’s founding year

1801: The first tourbillon is invented

1954: Releases the Type XX aviation watch for the French

Ministry of Defence

1999: Swatch Group acquires Breguet

2001: Celebrates the 200th anniversary of the tourbillon

2002: The moonphase mechanism in the Reine de Naples

watch is patented

2005: Three patents are given to the new detent

escapement; the Tradition line is launched

2007: Launch of the Tradition 7047 Grande Complication

Fusée Tourbillon

2008: Reproduction of the watch No. 160 “Marie

Antoinette” based on pictures and descriptions

2011: The Breguet Classique 5717 Hora Mundi is born

MARINE TOURBILLON ÉQUATION

MARCHANTE 5887

Movement: Self-winding caliber 581DPE;

hours, minutes and seconds; tourbillon;

perpetual calendar with retrograde

date; equation of time; power-reserve

indication; 80-hour power reserve

Case: 18K rose gold; 43.9mm; slate-grey

gold dial; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Brown alligator leather with triplefolding

buckle

Price: USD215,000

CLASSIQUE 7137

Movement: Self-winding caliber 502.3

DR1; hours and minutes; date; moon

phases; power-reserve indication; 46-

hour power reserve

Case: 18K white gold or rose fold;

39mm; 18K gold dial with engine

turning; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Alligator leather with

folding buckle

Price: USD40,000

CLASSIQUE 7337

Movement: Self-winding caliber 502.3

QSE1; hours and minutes; small

seconds; date; day; moon phases; 45-

hour power reserve

Case: 18K white or rose gold; 39mm;

18K gold dial with engine turning;


Strap: Alligator leather with gold

folding buckle

Price: USD43,000

CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT

5367

Movement: Extra-thin self-winding

caliber 581; hours and minutes;

tourbillon with titanium carriage and

small seconds; 80-hour power reserve

Case: Platinum; 41mm; blue grand feu

enamel dial; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Blue alligator leather with triplefolding

platinum buckle

Price: USD161,800

REINE DE NAPLES 8918

Movement: Self-winding caliber 537/3;

hours and minutes; 45-hour power

reserve

Case: 18K white gold; pear-shaped;

36.5mm x 28.45mm; diamond-set bezel

and dial flange; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Alligator leather in blue with

triple-folding clasp

Price: USD37,400

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Breitling

Bulova

Breitling’s long history as one of the world’s most

prestigious watchmakers has not prevented it from

maintaining the technique, certified quality and freshness

with which it has renewed itself at every stage of its existence —

a commitment to excellence that its collectors and new

fans adore.

Since its founding by Léon Breitling in 1884, it has become

the benchmark for quality in chronograph manufacture. The

house was the creator of the two-pusher chronographs that are

now standardized for use around the world.

As early as the 1940s, Breitling laid the foundations for its

great international prestige thanks to its strong links with and

contributions to aviation.

With the launch of the Navitimer in 1952, Breitling

conquered the hearts not only of pilots, but also of a wider

public on both sides of the Atlantic. Breitling is also credited

with having participated in the creation and marketing of the

first modular automatic chronograph movement in 1969 —

the Chronomatic.

This year, Breitling has reinvented its collection with the

rebirth of the famous Chronomat B01 in a 42mm version. This

was the watch that pretty much saved the company during the

aftermath of the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s , while redefining

the concept of the “sports chronograph”. Several of the new

references take advantage of the original use of colors as well as

the outstanding B01 self-winding manufacture caliber.

Another great novelty is the reissue of the Superocean

Heritage ‘57, a new collection, based on the brand’s 1950s

diver, that stands out for its original sloping bezel, ideal

readability and unquestionable vintage taste, reaffirming a

legacy of more than 60 years.

A special mention goes to the new iteration of the timeonly

Navitimer Automatic 35, which, as its name indicates,

is presented in a 35mm case that is eminently suited for the

feminine wrist. The new references take advantage of the

refined aesthetics of the watch and are accompanied by a

generous variety of colors in the dials to maximize the model’s

aura of style and beauty.

Bulova’s history of firsts began with

its founding in 1875 by Joseph

Bulova in New York City. From

standardized production, the world’s

first fully electronic watch, to innovative

collaborations and promotions, Bulova

continues to look to the future with

recent launches like the Precisionist

collection and the CURV, the world’s

first curved chronograph movement.

Successful revivals look to the past,

reimagining archival highlights like the

Devil Diver, the Computron and vintage

military watches. Contemporary styling

is found in collections like “Futuro” and

collaborations with the Grammy’s and

Harley-Davidson, while retro looks find

inspiration in Frank Sinatra and Frank

Lloyd Wright.

SUTTON AUTOMATIC

Reference number: 97A161

Movement Miyota 8N24 automatic

skeletonized movement; hours, minutes

and seconds

Case: 43mm; rose-gold-tone

stainless steel

Strap: Blue croco textured leather with

deployant buckle

Price: USD550

VETERANS WATCHMAKER INITIATIVE

HACK WATCH


Movement Miyota 82S0-43A three-hand

automatic movement; hours, minutes

and seconds

Case: 38mm; stainless steel

Strap: Nylon NATO

Price: USD350

CHRONOMAT B01 42

Reference NumberAB0134101K1A1

Movement: Self-winding caliber Breitling

01; hours and minutes; subsidiary

seconds; 1/4th second chronograph with

30-minute and 12-hour totalizers; 70-

hour power reserve

Case: 42mm; stainless steel; waterresistant

to 200m

Strap: Signature “Rouleaux” bracelet in

stainless steel

Price: USD8,100

SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE ’57

Reference NumberA10370161C1X1

Movement:Self-winding caliber Breitling

10; hours, minutes and seconds; 42-hour

power reserve

Case: 42mm; stainless steel with ceramic

bezel; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Brown calfskin leather or

stainless-steel mesh bracelet

Price: USD4,380

NAVITIMER AUTOMATIC 35

Reference NumberA17395F41G1A1

MovementSelf-winding caliber Breitling

17; hours, minutes and seconds;

logarithmic scale; 38-hour power reserve


to 30m

Strap: Burgundy leather or stainlesssteel

bracelet

Price: USD4,860

MY WAY – FRANK SINATRA


Movement Miyota calibre 1L45 quartz;

hours and minutes; small seconds

Case: 30mm x 47mm; gold-tone

stainless steel

Strap: Brown leather with deployant

buckle

Price: USD525

THE BEST IS YET TO COME – FRANK

SINATRA

Reference number: 968345

Movement Calibre SW215; Swiss

manual-winding mechanical movement;

hours, minutes and seconds; date


Strap: Croco-grain brown leather with

deployant buckle

Price: USD1,150

FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT FOUNDATION

80TH ANNIVERSARY

Reference number: Square, Circle,

Triangle

Movement 2036-00B/ V2901.37 quartz;

hours and minutes

Case: 35mm x 49mm brushed/polished

gold-tone case

Strap: Stitched black leather with

deployant buckle

Price: USD475; limited edition of

500 pieces

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Bvlgari

The Bvlgari that was founded in the region of Epirus, Greece, in 1884 by a

silversmith by the name of Sotirios Boulgaris, is vastly different from the

massive conglomerate it is today, whose influence encompasses jewellery

and watches to leather goods and hotel properties. And, quite remarkably,

Bvlgari, who is known to most as the jeweller to the stars, crafting extravagant

and luscious necklaces and tiaras for the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, is today

equally known and respected for its serious achievements in watchmaking.

It’s a journey that begins in the 2000s, when Bvlgari acquired Gérald Genta

and Daniel Roth, two Swiss leaders in haute horlogerie. Thus begins a decade

of massive acquisitions of other Swiss companies, putting Bvlgari on the fast

track of gaining the know-how and skills of producing top-quality cases, dials

and bracelets, in addition to its expertise in complications and mechanical

movements. In 2010, a year before LVMH acquired a majority stake in Bvlgari,

the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth Manufacture was acquired by Bvlgari. And

in 2012, the Octo, refined upon Gérald Genta’s design, was born. Today, we

cannot speak about Bvlgari without mentioning the incredible achievements

of the Octo Finissimo. First presented in 2014, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

achieved a world record with the thinnest tourbillon movement on the market.

In six years, the Octo Finissimo has broken five world records, proving that the

brand is a force to be reckoned with.

TIMELINE

1884: Bvlgari is founded.

1977: Launches Bvlgari Bvlgari, the first

men’s collection.

1982: Builds watch business unit in

Neuchàtel, Switzerland.

2000: Acquires haute horlorgerie makers

Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth.

2010: The Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth

Manufacture is absorbed into the brand.

2014: Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is

“world’s thinnest tourbillon movement”

2016: Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

sets new world record.

2017: Debuts the slimmest automatic on

the market at the time.

2018: Presents the world’s thinnest

Automatic Tourbillon watch.

2019: 5th world record: Octo Finissimo

Chronograph GMT

OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON

CHRONOGRAPH SKELETON

AUTOMATIC

Movement: Automatic BVL 388

caliber; hours, minutes; monopusher

chronograph and tourbillon; 52-hour

power reserve

Case and Dial: Sandblasted titanium

case; 42mm; 7.40mm thick; skeletonized

matte grey dial

Strap: Sandblasted titanium bracelet with

folding buckle

Price: On request, limited edition of

50 pieces.

OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC SATIN-

POLISHED STEEL BLUE

Movement: Automatic BVL138 Finissimo

caliber with platinum micro-rotor; hours,

minutes and small seconds indications;


Case: Satin-polished steel case; 40mm;

5.25mm thick, blue lacquered dial;


Strap: Integrated satin-polished steel

bracelet with folding clasp

Price: USD12,000

OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC BLACK

SANDBLAST-POLISHED CERAMIC

Movement: Automatic BVL138 Finissimo

caliber with platinum micro-rotor; hours,

minutes and small seconds indications;


Case and Dial: Sandblasted ceramic;

40mm; 5.50mm thick; sandblasted

ceramic dial; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Sandblasted polished ceramic


Price: USD15,600

OCTO FINISSIMO MINUTE REPEATER IN

SANDBLASTED ROSE GOLD

Movement: BVL362 ultra-thin manual

wind minute repeater; hours and

minutes; small seconds at 6 o’clock; 42-

hour power reserve

Case and Dial: Sandblasted 18k rose

gold case and dial; 40mm; 6.90mm thick;


Strap: Brown matte alligator leather with

18K rose gold ardillon buckle

Price: USD170,000

BULGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI

TOURBILLON

Movement: Manual winding caliber

BVL150, tourbillon, hours and minutes

indications, 40-hour power-reserve,

Case and Dial: 18K rose gold; 34mm;

8.90mm thick; full snow set dial; waterresistant

to 30m.

Strap: Brown leather strap with folding

clasp set with round brilliant-cut

diamonds

Price: USD78,000

DIVAS’ DREAM FINISSIMA MINUTE

REPEATER MALACHITE

Movement: Manual wind BVL 362 extrathin

movement; minute repeater with two

hammers; 42-hour power reserve

Case and Dial: 18k white gold; 37mm;

green malachite dial with diamonds

Strap: Green alligator leather with 18K

white gold folding buckle set with round

brilliant-cut diamonds

Price: USD219,900

Limited edition of 10 pieces

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Cartier

Not that anyone would forget the greatness that is

Cartier’s watchmaking, but with the releases of the

Santos, the Tank Asymétrique and the revival of

the Pasha, we are reminded once again that Cartier has an

unrivalled ability to make watches that are not only the perfect

homage to its past heritage, but also relevant, modern and

timeless. At the turn of the 20th century, Cartier created

one of its most significant timepieces: the Santos-Dumont,

the very first known luxury men’s wristwatch designed for

Alberto Santos-Dumont by Louis Cartier. The seminal watch,

which later inspired the creations of the Santos in 1978 and

the Panthère in 1983, is reintroduced this year in the most

compelling way — several limited versions of the watch, each

named after one of Santos-Dumont’s famous aircrafts,

were released.

The sporty and dynamic Pasha also sees a revival this year,

yet again demonstrating Cartier’s strength in design. The

Pasha has seen several incarnations over the years, including

complicated offerings during the CPCP era. Today, the Pasha

is brought back in its most classic Gérald Genta-esque form,

with only time and date options. The Tank Asymétrique, based

on the 1936 Parallelogram watch, is yet another testament to

Cartier’s design language mastery. Since 2015, Cartier has

been releasing variations of its legendary watches in limited

and numbered series in the Privé colletion. Following the

Crash, the Tank Cintrée and the Tonneau in recent years,

2020 is the year for the Tank Asymétrique to enter the

exclusive circle.

But that’s not all. Cartier is, after all, also very well beloved

by the ladies. The maison debuted the Maillon de Cartier,

a one-off design that is part watch and part jewelry, with a

chain-link bracelet and a hexagonally shaped bezel. Jewelry

watches in the Panthère de Cartier family further reflect

Cartier’s creativity.

SANTOS-DUMONT “LE 14 BIS”

LIMITED EDITION

Movement: Manual wind 430 MC calibre,

hours, minutes, 38-hour power reserve

Case: 18K yellow gold and steel, 43.5mm

x 31.4mm, 7.3mm thick, crown set with a

blue synthetic spinel cabochon

Strap: Grey alligator leather

Price: USD7,250, limited and numbered

edition of 500 pieces.

SANTOS-DUMONT “LA DEMOISELLE”

LIMITED EDITION

Movement: Manual wind 430 MC calibre,

hours, minutes, 38-hour power reserve.

Case: Platinum, 46.6mm x 33.9mm,

7.5mm thick, panama fabric pattern dial,

crown set with a ruby cabochon

Strap: Two straps, panama fabric and

brown alligator leather

Price: USD43,600, limited and numbered


CARTIER PRIVÉ TANK ASYMÉTRIQUE

Movement: Manual wind 1917 MC

calibre, hours, minutes, 38-hour power

reserve

Case: Pink or yellow gold or platinum

with silver or anthracite dial, 47.15mm x

26.2mm, 6.38mm thick, crown set with a

sapphire cabochon

Strap: Grey or brown alligator

Price: USD26,400 (yellow gold and pink

gold); USD30,100 (platinum), limited to

100 pieces in each metal.

MAILLON DE CARTIER

Movement: Quartz, hours, minutes

Case and dial: 16mm x 17mm, 6.8mm

thick,18Kyellow,pinkorwhitegold,

with or without diamonds, silver dial with

radiating Roman numerals,

splash-resistant

Strap: Matching gold chain-link bracelet,

pave diamonds on white gold version

Price: USD25,100 (yellow gold);

USD31,100 (pink gold); USD33,500

(white gold)

ROTONDE DE CARTIER GRANDE

COMPLICATION SKELETON

Movement: Self-winding caliber

9506MC; hours and minutes; perpetual

calendar; minute repeater; flying

tourbillon; skeleton movement; 50-hour

power reserve

Case: 45mm case in 18K pink gold; slate

gray skeleton dial; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Grey alligator leather strap

Price: On request

ROTONDE DE CARTIER MINUTE

REPEATER MYSTERIOUS DOUBLE

TOURBILLON


9507MC; hours and minutes; minute

repeater, double tourbillon; mysterious

design; 84-hour power reserve (approx.)

Case: 45mm in 18K pink gold, water

resistant to 30m

Strap: Grey alligator leather

Price: On request

CARTIER PRIVÉ TANK ASYMÈTRIQUE

SKELETON

Movement: Manual wind 9623 MC,

skeletonised, minutes, hours, 48-hour

power reserve

Case: Platinum; extra-large model,

47.15mm x 26.2 mm, 7.82mm thick,

crown set with a sapphire cabochon

Strap: Blueandblackalligatorleather

straps

Price: On request, limited and numbered


PASHA DE CARTIER 41MM

Movement: Automatic 1847 MC calibre,


Case: 18K yellow gold or stainless steel;

large model, 41mm; 9.55mm thick;

crown set with sapphire cabochon (spinel

cabochon on steel version)

Strap: Alligator leather for all models;

matching steel bracelet for steel version

Price: USD6,800 (in stainless steel) and

USD16,600 (in gold)

PASHA DE CARTIER IN DIAMONDS

Movement: Automatic 530 MC calibre,


Case: 18K white gold; small model,

35mm, 9.9mm thick; crown set with a

brilliant-cut diamond dial set with 318

brilliant-cut diamonds, case and bracelet

set with 625 brilliant-cut diamonds

Strap: 18K white gold bracelet set with

brilliant-cut diamonds

Price: On request.

Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces.

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Casio

Chanel

Casio is a household name for the masses today, some

seven decades in the making. Although, where the

universe of horology is concerned, this could not have

been the case if not for the pioneering spirit of one individual,

Kikuo Ibe, who set out to create an indestructible timepiece in

the early 1980s.

The story goes that on a day like any other, the watch that

Ibe-san’s father had gifted him, fell from his wrist and became

completely destroyed. The sentimental worth of this watch was

such that Ibe-san took it upon himself to create a watch that

wouldn’t be so fragile when faced with the perils of daily life.

Lo and behold, in 1983 — and 200 prototypes later — Ibe-san

gave the world its first G-SHOCK: the Casio DW-5000C.

Since then, the G-SHOCK has garnered a somewhat cultlike

following, with a multitude of iterations, all of which stem

from the foundations that were set by Ibe-san’s initial “Triple

10” development concept, which requires that all G-SHOCKs

must have a 10-year battery life, 10-bar (100-meter) water

resistance and be able to withstand a 10-meter free fall.

Casio, as a manufacture, has ensured that it’s continued

to build upon Ibe-san’s fundamentals, to create ever more

extreme G- SHOCKs, ever more efficiently, and with ever

more creative executions thanks to the various street labels

and artists who have partnered with the brand to create

limited editions. As a result, Casio has produced all varieties

of G-SHOCKs in large numbers, catering to a proportionally

large following from all walks of life.

Beyond its journey into becoming a cultural icon, the

G-SHOCK has also kept pushing boundaries taking on newage

materials while maintaining its indestructible qualities.

The biggest leap in this latter regard, perhaps came with the

announcement of the GMW-B5000TB in late 2019, which was

an evolution of the original square G-SHOCK with its case and

bracelet made fully in titanium.

At a time when watches were still predominately a man’s world, Chanel — very

much in the spirit of Gabrielle Chanel herself — decided to move into horology

by creating its very first timepiece, the Première. The watch was based on

Place Vendôme and the octagonal shape of its No. 5 perfume bottle stopper, and made

exclusively for women. Haute-couture house they may be, but its watchmaking knowhow

cannot be underestimated. Following the successful launch of the Première, the

world once again took heed when Chanel launched the J12 in 2000, a revolutionary unisex

timepiece that was instantly well received by both genders, inspired by Jacques Helleu’s

love of yachts. Chanel also pioneered the use of high-tech ceramics, way before ceramics

was even a popular material to use in watchmaking.

In 2005, Chanel presented the J12 Tourbillon, which marked its entry into haute

horlogerie and its subsequent partnerships with Audemars Piguet — the J12 Mysterious

Retrograde in 2010 was powered with a Renaud et Papi APRP movement. In 2016, the

brand proudly presented its first in-house manufacture movement, the Caliber 1, in the

Monsieur de Chanel watch with jumping hours and instantaneous retrograde minutes.

In quick succession, Chanel brought us the Caliber 2 in 2017 and the Caliber 3in2018.

Last year, Chanel acquired a stake in the new Kenissi manufacture, which also produces

movements for Tudor. The thoroughly revamped J12 also launched that year, tastefully

done by Arnaud Chastaingt and featuring the new Caliber 12.1 by Kenissi. This year marks

the 20th anniversary of the J12 and, with great fanfare, Chanel launched a host of limited

editions, from an all-sapphire version, to an anniversary model that features 20 different

symbols and references from the brand.

TIMELINE

1987: Presents the Première

1993: Acquires Manufacture G&F

Châtelain in La Chaux-de-Fonds

2000: Jacques Helleu designs the J12

2002: Acquires Bell & Ross

2005: The J12 Tourbillon is Chanel’s

first complication

2011: J12 in new ceramic colors

2012: The Mademoiselle Privé

collection showcases métiers d’art

2015: The Boy Friend watch is born

2016: Chanel presents its first

manufacture movement, the Caliber 1

2017: Caliber2 debuts in the Première

Camélia Skeleton

2018: The Caliber 3 is born

2019: Acquires stake in manufacture

Kenissi alongside Tudor and debuts

the Caliber 12.1, derived from Tudor’s

MT5600 movements

2020: Celebrates 20 years of the J12

G-SHOCK FULL METAL

CONSTRUCTION GMW-B5000 WITH

GRID DESIGN REF. GMWB5000CS-1

Movement: Quartz; calendar;

worldtimer; Bluetooth; GPS; stopwatch;

countdown timer and alarms; 10-month

rechargeable battery (normal use)

Case: 49.3 ×43.2 × 13mm; steel with

black IP treatment; water-resistant to

200m

Strap: Matching bracelet

Price and availability: USD800; only

available for a limited time

G-SHOCK “G-SQUAD” GBD-H1000

Ref. GBD-H1000-4

Movement: Quartz; dedicated

training functions; wrist heart rate

measurement; training analysis; digital

compass; altimeter; barometer;

thermometer; stopwatch; rechargeable

battery with 12-month operating time

(without training functions)

Case: 63×55×20.4mm;redresinand

stainless steel; water-resistant to 200m

Strap: Red resin

Price: USD399

G-SHOCK × NASA DW5600Ref.

DW5600NASA20

Movement: Quartz; hours, minutes

and seconds; calendar indications;

1/100th second stopwatch; flash alert;

electroluminescent backlight afterglow;

two-year CR2016 battery

Case: 48.9 × 42.8 × 13.4mm; white resin

and stainless steel; water-resistant to

200m

Strap: White resin

Price and availability: USD130; limited

to one per household

J12.20 ENAMEL

Movement: Self-winding Caliber 12.1,

hours, minutes, seconds; COSCcertified;


Case and dial: Black ceramic; 18K white

gold bezel and dial with champléve

enamel motifs and diamonds; 38mm;


Strap: Black ceramic bracelet with 18K

white gold triple-folding buckle

Price: USD75,100

Numbered and limited edition of 5 pieces.

J12.20

Movement: Self-winding Caliber 12.1,



Case and dial: White ceramic and

steel; 38mm; white lacquered dial with

rhodium-plated motifs and diamonds;


Strap: White ceramic with 18K white gold

triple-folding buckle

Price: USD7,750

Limited to 2,020 pieces

J12 PARADOXE

Movement: Self-winding Caliber 12.1;



Case and dial: Black ceramic and 18K

white gold case, bezel set with baguettecut

diamonds, diamond indicators;


Strap: Black ceramic bracelet with 18K

white gold triple-folding buckle

Price: On request

Numbered and limited edition of 20 pieces

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Chopard

Louis-Ulysse Chopard established L.U.C in 1860, in the Swiss village of

Sonvillier where the company very early on built itself a reputation for

reliable high-quality watches that were sold throughout Europe, including

to Tsar Nicholas II. In 1963, the company was sold to Karl Scheufele III, where

it has remained with the Scheufele family ever since. Today, siblings Karl-

Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele continue to lead the company, where Caroline

is responsible for the ladies’ collections, as well as Chopard’s highly acclaimed

jewellery and high-jewelry departments, and Karl-Friedrich manages the

men’s collection, developing sports watches through the 1980s and opening

the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier in the 1990s to produce the L.U.C

movements. The L.U.C 1860 housing the caliber 1.96 raised Chopard’s profile

as a serious horological maison and ushered in two decades of groundbreaking

mechanical movement innovation. Family and genuine commitment to

everything they do are very much at the core of Chopard. The Mille Miglia

started as a sponsorship in 1988, but has now become an integral part of

Chopard’s DNA, bolstered by Karl-Friedrich’s genuine interest in vintage

cars and racing. Chopard also takes ethics and sustainability very seriously.

It was the first company to really commit to 100-percent ethical gold and the

responsible sourcing of all its raw materials — in line with the requirements of

the Chopard Code of Conduct for Partners.

TIMELINE

1860: Louis-Ulysse Chopard establishes

L.U.C in Sonvillier

1963: Scheufele acquires Chopard

1976: Birth of the Happy Diamonds

concept

1988: Becomes the main sponsor of the

Mille Miglia

1993: The Happy Sport watch line is born

1996: Establishes a new watch

manufacture in Fleurier

1998: Becomes official partner of the

Cannes Film Festival

2000: TheQuattroisintroduced,withtwo

sets of stacked barrels bringing nine days

of power reserve

2003: TheL.U.CTourbillonisunveiled

2017: Wins Geneva Grand Prix for the Full

Strike, world’s first minute repeater with

sapphire-crystal gongs

L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN

Movement: Self-winding L.U.C calibre

96.22-L; hours and minutes; small

seconds; perpetual calendar with big

date display; 65-hour power reserve

Case and dial: Stainless steel; 43mm;

blue sunray-finished dial; water resistant

to 30m

Strap: Bluealligatorstrapwithmatching

metal pin buckle

Price: USD24,700

L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN

Movement: Self-winding L.U.C calibre

96.22-L; hours and minutes; small

seconds; perpetual calendar with big

date display; 65-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 18K rose gold; 43mm;

ruthenium grey dial; water resistant to

30m

Strap: Brown alligator strap with

matching metal pin buckle

Price: Available on request

MILLE MIGLIA GTS AZZURRO POWER

CONTROL

Movement: Self-winding calibre 01.08-C;

hours, minutes and seconds; date; powerreserve

indication; 60-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 18K rose gold and stainless

steel; 43mm; circular-brushed blue dial;


Strap: Blue calf leather with perforations

and blue rubber lining and folding clasp

Price: USD9,990; limited to 500 pieces

MILLE MIGLIA GTS AZZURRO CHRONO

Movement: Self-winding mechanical;

hours and minutes; small seconds; date;

chronograph; COSC-certified; 48-hour

power reserve


circular satin-brushed blue dial; water

resistant to 100m

Strap: Blue calf leather with

perforations and blue rubber lining and

folding clasp


HAPPY SPORT JOAILLERIE

Movement: Self-winding calibre 96.17-

C; hours and minutes; 65-hour power

reserve

Case and dial: 18K white gold; 36mm;

seven dancing diamonds on mother-ofpearl

dial; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Alligator leather with matching

gold buckle set with diamonds

Price: USD89,000

HAPPY SPORT JOAILLERIE

Movement: Self-winding calibre 96.17-

C; hours and minutes; 65-hour power

reserve

Case and dial: 18K rose gold; 36mm;

seven dancing diamonds on mother-ofpearl

dial; water resistant to 30m


gold buckle set with diamonds

Price: USD89,000

34 IN TIME

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Citizen

Chronoswiss

If there was ever a year to promote an

environmentally conscious timepiece,

Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology

has found its time and place. Citizen’s

renewable-resource technology converts

light into energy by harnessing light from

any natural or artificial source to fuel the

movement, therefore, eliminating the

constant need for buying and discarding

new batteries. Links with Walt Disney

Parks, the Marvel Universe, and Star

Wars add lighthearted watch-collecting

fun while maintaining their ethos of

providing an innovative, well-rounded

collection created for citizens of the

entire world.

SUPER TITANIUM ARMOR 3H

Reference number: AW1660-51H

Movement: Caliber J810; hours,

minutes and seconds; date

Case: 41mm; Super Titanium

Strap: Super Titanium bracelet

Price: USD550

PROMASTER NIGHTHAWK

Reference number: BJ7135-02E

Movement: Caliber B877; hours,

minutes and seconds; dual time zones;

sliding scale for measurement

Case: 42mm; black stainless steel;


Strap: Black leather

Price: USD495

Afew weeks ago, Chronoswiss, the company based in

Lucerne and synonymous with regulator-style watches,

presented its renewed image, which is largely defined

by its new slogan: “Modern Mechanical.” This message is

accompanied by a number of watch launches that demonstrate

the strengths, values and direction of the brand headed by our

friend Oliver Ebstein.

These watches that stand out so much are of the regulating

type, that is to say, watches that display the hours, minutes and

seconds on different parts of the dial. This concept originates

from the regulator clocks that were found in the watch

observatories and workshops of the 19th century and which were

used to set the time for pocket watches and

marine chronometers.

The Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Chocolate is a delicious

watch in many ways. The new piece stands out for its bold

three-dimensional face, where the circular base is presented

in red, finished by sandblasting and varnishing that gives it that

incredible “sugary” look. The skeletonized dial for the hours

and the arch of the retrograde seconds seem to float over the

scarlet frosted surface. The steel case and large onion crown are

finished in scratch-resistant brown PVD. This watch, which

amazingly includes a one-year quarterly subscription to Max

Chocolatier from Lucerne, is limited to 50 pieces.

Naturally, the classic lines that have defined Chronoswiss

for more than 35 years will never be absent from its most

conservative regulators. Proof of this is the Regulator Classic

Blue Steel, where the bluish proposal of the 41mm steel case is

accompanied by the more traditional dial of the Classic range,

with sectored subdials and Roman typography.

But if you prefer a regulator with a slightly sportier air,

Chronoswiss offers numerous variants of its most classic

regulator. One of the most dramatic is the Carbon Racer, which

has an immediate association with motoring. Unlike the other

classic regulators from Lucerne, the Carbon Racer in black and

red adds Arabic numerals, which give it a more “racing” feel.

PROMASTER NIGHTHAWK

Reference number: BJ7138-04E

Movement: CaliberB877; hours, minutes

and seconds; dual time zones; sliding

scale for measurement

Case: 42mm; two-tone stainless steel;


Strap: Olive-green leather

Price: USD495

SUPER TITANIUM ARMOR CHRONO

Reference number: CA7050-57H

Movement: Caliber B642; hours and

minutes; chronograph

Case: 44mm; Super Titanium; water

resistant to 100m

Strap: Super Titanium bracelet

Price: USD650

SUPER TITANIUM ARMOR CHRONO

Reference number: CA7058-55E

Movement: Caliber B642; hours and

minutes; chronograph

Case: 44mm; Super Titanium; water

resistant to 100m

Strap: Two-tone Super Titanium

bracelet

Price: USD650

OPEN GEAR RESEC CHOCOLATE

Reference Number: CH-6927-REBK

Movement: Self-winding caliber C.

301; off-center hours; central minutes;

retrograde seconds; 42-hour

power reserve

Case: 44mm; stainless steel with brown

PVD coating; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Hand-sewn calfskin

Price and availability: CHF9,900;

limited edition of 50 pieces

REGULATOR CLASSIC BLUE STEEL

Reference Number: CH-8776-BL



subsidiary seconds; 42-hour

power reserve

Case: 41mm; stainless steel with blue

PVD coating; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Louisiana alligator leather sewn

and dyed by hand

Price: CHF4,900

REGULATOR CLASSIC CARBON RACER

Reference Number: CH-8773-CARE



subsidiary seconds; 42-hour

power reserve


to 100m

Strap: Rubber or stainless-steel bracelet

Price: CHF4,700

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Corum

De Bethune

Founded in 1955 in La Chauxde-Fonds,

Corum is best known

for its technical excellence, and

artistically edgy collections like the

nautical flag-inspired Admiral, the

transparent Golden Bridges, and the

witty domed Bubble watches. Multiple

presidents have worn Corum’s beloved

coin dial watches: George Bush Sr.,

Ronald Reagan, Jimmy Carter and, most

recently, Bill Clinton have all sported the

heritage watch. The year 2016 saw the

return of the Bubble watch, its domed,

double anti-reflective sapphire crystal

creating a magnifying-glass effect

highlighting sporty, surrealistic and,

often, macabre themed dials.

GOLDEN BRIDGE ROUND 39

Reference Number: B113/04136

-113.001.69/OF03 BD50G

Movement: CO 113 automatic

movement; hours and minutes; 40-hour

power reserve

Case: 39mm; 18K white gold; water

resistant to 30m

Strap: Blue alligator leather strap with


Price: USD65,000; custom order

CORUM LAB 02

Reference Number: Z300/03999

-300.100.55/OF02 0010

Movement: Calibre CO300 automatic

movement; hours and minutes; date;

flying tourbillon; 55-hour power reserve

Case: 45mm; 18K rose gold; water

resistant to 30m

Strap: Brown alligator leather with


Price: USD180,000; fully customizable

At only 18 years old, De Bethune is very much a newcomer on the

watchmaking block, but what the brand has managed to achieve in

a relatively short amount of time is nothing short of astounding. De

Bethune bills itself as a watchmaker for the third millennium, a young firebrand

pushing the practice of watchmaking forward, in both technique and aesthetics.

On the technical front, De Bethune has numerous patents and inventions

under its belt. From their own balance spring to co-founder Denis Flageollet’s

ever-improving balance wheel — the latest of which accounts for a 20-percent

improvement in power reserve — through to shock-absorbing systems,

improved escapements and an incredibly light tourbillon cage. De Bethune

strives to improve every aspect of the timekeeping efficiency and accuracy of a

mechanical watch.

Of course, De Bethune’s distinctive aesthetics are informed by their work on

the technical side. A case in point is the spherical moon phase, or the brand’s

radically architectural — almost sculptural — floating lugs, which pivot from

the central axis. And then there’s the way De Bethune works with titanium,

transforming the typically utilitarian metal into a work of wonder through heatbluing

and mirror polishing. These treatments, combined with the futuristic

vision of the brand, result in watches that are bold, vibrant horological creations

that embody the future of the very finest watchmaking traditions.

TIMELINE:

2002: De Bethune is founded by Denis

Flageollet and David Zanetta

2004: Patent filed for unique balanceand-spring

assembly and spherical

moonphase display

2006: Patent filed for De Bethune’s unique

floating lugs

2009: Releases the world’s lightest

tourbillon, weighing just 0.18 grams

2011: Pierre Jacques joins as CEO

2011: The DB28 wins the coveted

“Aiguille d’Or” at the GPHG

2018: The DB25 Starry Varius

Chronomètre Tourbillon wins the

Chronometry prize at the GPHG

2020: Celebrates the 10th anniversary of

the DB28 with the release of the DB28XP

CORUM ADMIRAL 42 AUTOMATIC

BRONZE GREEN

Reference Number: A395/04035

-395.201.53.OF17 AV65

Movement: Calibre CO 395 automatic

movement; hours and minutes; small

seconds; date; 42-hour power reserve

Case: 42mm; bronze; water-resistant

to 50m

Strap: Green alligator leather with triplefolding

clasp

Price: USD4,700

CORUM HERITAGE ARTISAN COIN

WATCH

Reference Number: CO82/03956 -

082.647.41/001 MU29

Movement: Calibre CO 082 automatic

movement; hours and minutes

Case: 43mm; silver PVD treatment

Strap: Black alligator leather with triplefolding

clasp

Price: USD19,000

CORUM GOLDEN BRIDGE RECTANGLE

Reference Number: B113/04145

-113.050.55/OF02 OOOOR

Movement: CO 113 manual-winding

movement; hours and minutes; 40-hour

power reserve

Case: 29.50mm x 42.20mm;

18K rose gold

Strap: Brown alligator leather with


Price: USD35,000

DE BETHUNE DB28XP

Reference number: DB28XPTIS1

Movement: Manual-winding DB2115V6;

hours, minutes; tourbillon; six-day power

reserve

Case and dial: 43mm; titanium;

“Microlight” case-middle; titanium dial

base with “Microlight” decoration


Price: CHF72,000

DE BETHUNE DB28 KIND OF BLUE

TOURBILLON MILKY WAY

Movement: Manual-winding DB2019;

hours, minutes; power-reserve indicator;

ultra-light 30-second tourbillon; 120-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: 42.6mm; blued titanium;

star-studded sky on blued titanium dial

with laser beam micro-milled Milky Way


Price: Available on request


DE BETHUNE DB25 STARRY VARIUS

CHRONOMÈTRE TOURBILLON

Movement: Manual-winding DB2005,

hours, minutes; central jumping seconds;

tourbillon; 96-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 42mm; titanium; starstudded

sky on blued titanium dial with

laser beam micro-milled Milky Way


Price: CHF190,000


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Dior

It would be too easy to assume that when a fashion house shows an interest in

watchmaking, they must be making fashion watches. This is simply untrue for

so many couture brands, and Dior is no exception. At Dior, the same exacting

care and attention it gives to its haute couture is similarly given to its highend

timepieces. Each complication and design is well thought-out to echo the

designs of Monsieur Christian Dior.

The first watch design by Dior’s Victoire de Castellane is the La D de Dior,

which was sans indices and date, and focused on pure design codes. Later came

the Chiffre Rouge for men, and the spectacular launch of the Dior Christal —

designed by its then creative director, John Galliano.

But there’s no doubt that it’s the Dior Grand Bal that has captured our

attentions today. In a genius move, Dior developed the “Dior Inversé 11 1/2”

caliber, which brings the oscillating weight to the front of the dial, perfectly

mimicking the swirl of a ball gown on the dance floor. Decorated with satin, faille

and taffeta, adorned with gold threads, silk, feathers, gems, and even scarab beetle

elytra, the Grand Bal collection is the pinnacle of what can happen when fashion

and watchmaking meet, and the symbol of what Dior watchmaking is all about.

TIMELINE

1968: First foray into watchmaking with a

collection of women’s watches made

with Bulova

1975: Launch of the Black Moon

2001: New manufacture, Les Ateliers

Horlogers Dior SA in La Chaux-de-Fonds

is established

2003: La D de Dior, first watch designed

by Victoire de Castellane, is launched

2004: The first men’s watch from Dior,

the Chiffre Rouge, is launched

2005: The Dior Christal is born — a

creation by its then creative director,

John Galliano

2011: Debut of the Grand Bal Collection

GRAND SOIR PLISSÉ PRÉCIEUX

Ref: CD13357X1001

Movement: Elite automatic movement by

Zenith; hours, minutes, oscillating weight

with pink gold rippled effect

Case and dial: 18K pink gold with

diamonds; sun-brushed white gold dial

with diamonds in devoré snow-setting and

pleated detail; water-resistant to 50m

Strap: Grey satin, extra black alligator

strap

Price: On request, limited to 88 pieces

DIOR GRAND BAL MASQUE NO. 1

Ref: CD153B6X1003

Movement: Automatic “Dior Inversé 11

1/2” caliber; oscillating weight adorned

with gems and feathers; hours, minutes;


Case and dial: 18K white gold with

diamonds; polished yellow gold dial;


Strap: Embossed blue satin

Price: On request, unique-piece

DIOR GRAND BAL MASQUE NO. 11

Ref: CD153B6X1013

Movement: Elite automatic movement by

Zenith; hours, minutes, oscillating weight

with pink gold rippled effect

Case and dial: 18K pink gold with

diamonds; sun-brushed white gold dial

with diamonds in devoré snow-setting and

pleated detail; water-resistant to 50m

Strap: Grey satin, extra black alligator

strap

Price: On request, limited to 88 pieces

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Ferdinand Berthoud

Franck Muller

Ferdinand Berthoud the watchmaker may be somewhat little known compared

to Abraham-Louis Breguet or George Daniels, but his is a name that is

integral in the story of naval chronometers. A prolific writer, Berthoud

wrote numerous essays and treaties, and had ambitions to open an academy. But

Ferdinand Berthoud as a brand lay inactive for many years between 1876 and

the 21st century, and it is truly thanks to the thoughtfulness and genius of Karl-

Friedrich Scheufele and the Chopard Group that the brand is revived today in a

manner that is faithful to its past DNA. In launching Ferdinand Berthoud in the

21st century, the Scheufele family’s wish was not to recreate the same clocks and

chronometers of old, but to reimagine Ferdinand Berthoud as a watchmaker today,

and the watches that he would make today.

The first watch that was launched was the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB1,

with a distinct design and an even more intriguing movement. With an octagonal case

and a round dial, the watch design is inspired by 18th-century marine chronometers

that had a round drum-like brass case gimballed to a mahogany box to ensure that

the movement remained horizontal regardless of the ship’s movements. The unusual

movement, calibre FB-T.FX, showcases a pillar construction and features a fuséeand-chain

constant-force system, feeler-and-cone power-reserve mechanism and

a tourbillon with central seconds. In the few short years since its rebirth, Ferdinand

Berthoud has very quickly achieved acclaim, with the brand winning the “Aiguille

d’Or” Grand Prix in 2016 and 2019. In 2020, celebrating the 250th anniversary of

the Marine Clock No. 6 that inspired the aesthetics of today’s Ferdinand Berthoud,

the brand launched the new Chronomètre FB 2RE, combining the fusée-and-chain

transmission with a one-second remontoir d’égalité mechanism.

TIMELINE

1727: Birth of Ferdinand Berthoud in

Plancemont-sur-Couvet, Switzerland

1745: MovestoParistostudy

clockmaking and horology

1752: Presents a longcase equation clock

to the Royal Academy of Sciences in Paris

1753: Pronounced Master Horologist by

theFrenchKingLouisXV

1770: Awarded title of “Clockmaker and

Mechanic by appointment to the French

King and Navy”

1777: Marine clock M.M. No. 6 is

created, the inspiration behind the FB1 in

the 21st century

1876: The brand becomes inactive

2006: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele learns

about the brand

2015: Chopard Group relaunches

Ferdinand Berthoud and unveils the

Chronomètre FB1

2016: Wins “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for

the FB1

This year, once again, the Vanguard collection is

responsible for showing the creativity of Franck Muller

through references that demonstrate the aesthetic

values of the young house located in the peaceful Genthod, due

north from Geneva. These three Vanguard watches, similar

as they are, appeal to very different tastes; each in its own way

exemplifies the versatility of the Vanguard concept, which

enables such distinctive values and stories to be communicated.

Crazy Hours is possibly the complication that most

identifies and communicates Franck Muller’s savoir-faire,

thanks to its exceptional mechanics with jumping hours of

instantaneous and seemingly random translation. This charming

concept was chosen by Rolls-Royce Geneva, the only official

distributor of the English brand in the French-speaking part of

Switzerland, for a new watch that visually matches the Wraith

Crazy Numbers, a superlative Gran Turismo in black and blue

prepared by the Bespoke Programme customization area of the

Crewe brand.

One of the best examples of the tasteful and highly refined

possibilities of the Vanguard Racing series is the special-edition

Rally Maya 2020, created by Franck Muller to celebrate the

increasingly recognized classic car race held in Mexico. This

year, Crazy Hours took the leading role for this watch that offers

details alluding to the race and the Mayan culture — such as

the numeral “8“ in the shape of both a snake and the symbol

of infinity— that beautifully exemplifies the social and tourist

concept of regularity competition.

The Vanguard confirms the many possibilities of its Cintrée

Curvex case, with the attractive Skeleton Swiss Limited Edition

presented in a titanium case with a polished finish, covered

by a layer of white enamel, and accompanied by an alligator

strap whose red stitching is masterfully coordinated with the

impeccable geometry of the skeletonized movement and its red

anodized aluminium bridges.

CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE.1

Movement: Manual-winding FB-RE.FC;

hours, minutes and seconds; COSCcertified;

fusée-and-chain transmission;

remontoir d’égalité; power-reserve

indicator; 50-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 18K fairmined white gold;

44mm; split-level dial in white grand-feu

enamel; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Leather with gold pin buckle

Price: On request; numbered and limited

to 10 pieces

CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE.2

Movement: Manual-winding FB-RE.FC;

hours, minutes and seconds; COSCcertified;

fusée-and-chain transmission;

remontoir d’égalité; power-reserve


Case and dial: 18K fairmined rose gold;

44mm; split-level dial in black grand feu

enamel; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Leather with gold pin buckle

Price: On request; numbered and limited

to 10 pieces

CRAZY BLACK BADGE

Movement: Self-winding caliber FM

2800 CH R; jumping hours, minutes and

seconds; 42-hour power reserve

Case: 44mm x 53.7mm; steel in PVD

finishing; water-resistant to 30m


Price: On request

VANGUARD RACING CRAZY HOURS

RALLY MAYA LIMITED EDITION 2020

Reference Number: V45CHRCGRALLY

MAYA AC.BL

Movement: Self-winding caliber FM

2800 CH R; jumping hours, minutes and


Case: 44mm x 53.7mm; steel; waterresistant

to 30m

Strap: Calf leather and rubber

Price: USD16,000; limited edition of 25

pieces

VANGUARD SKELETON

Reference Number: V 45 S6 SQT BC (ER)

Movement: Manual-winding caliber

FM 1740-VS; hours and minutes; small

seconds; seven-day power reserve

Case: 44mm x 53.7mm; titanium with

enamel coating; water-resistant to 30m


Price: CHF 35,800; limited edition of 50

pieces

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Frederique Constant

Girard-Perregaux

This year has been overwhelming for all of us and, of

course, the watch industry was violently shaken by the

reduction in sales volumes. Independent brands and

large consortiums alike were subjected to the harsh reality,

which caused them to establish action plans emerging from

conservative and guarded strategies. Yet, there are numerous

stories of brands that continued to move forward with restraint

but assertiveness, with a view to fighting for their prominent

position in the industry.

Frederique Constant knows about challenges, for it has

been its perseverance, preservation of watchmaking values,

and respect for the business that have established it in a firm,

dignified and well-recognized position, anchored by the

philosophy of “accessible luxury.”

In 2012, Frederique Constant presented its first Worldtimer,

and the watch has been a major player in its sales ever since.

This year, the company presents a limited version of the Classic

Worldtimer Manufacture in an 18K pink-gold case. The dial

design, with elements superimposed in gray, red and blue, is

legible and attractive. It indicates 24 timezones and the day and

night on the globe. The self-winding caliber FC-718 is fully

adjustable through the crown.

Another jewel of FC and its manufacture is the Flyback

Chronograph with the caliber FC-760. In 2017 the first

version of the attractive three-register timekeeper was

presented in the favorite 3-6-9 arrangement in a very classic

aesthetic. This year, a slightly more sporty variant in polished

steel and rose-gold plating has been added, alongside a few

attractive color schemes.

Rounding out FC’s smart offering — pun not intended —

is the new Vitality series of connected watches that combine

discreet style with the functionality that has brought the

house’s Horological Smartwatches to the forefront

since 2015.

The origins of Girard-Perregaux

date back to 1791, with roots in

Geneva, ultimately advancing to

La Chaux-de-Fonds. With over 100

patents currently held by the maison,

Girard-Perregaux is best known for

the architecturally impressive Bridges

collection, groundbreaking innovations

like the Constant Escapement, the

glittering Cat’s Eye for ladies, and the

recent resurrection of the ’70s-era stylish

and sporty Laureato line. Light, elements

and space provide a new direction for

the latest introductions, the transparent

Quasar and the Laureato Absolute Light,

the Carbon Glass Laureato Absolute

Rock, and night-sky-inspired blue and

black aventurine 1966 Orion Trilogy.

1966 ORION TRILOGY

Ref: 49555-52-431-BB4A (pink gold)

Movement: Self-winding GP03300-

0132/0139; hours, minutes, seconds;

date; 46-hour power reserve

Case: 40mm; pink gold

Strap: Hand-patinated blue alligator

Price: USD17,800

LAUREATO ABSOLUTE LIGHT

Ref: 81071-43-231-FB6A


1143; hours, minutes; small seconds;


Case: 44mm; sapphire and titanium;


Strap: Black rubber


CLASSIC WORLDTIMER

MANUFACTURE

Reference Number: FC-718NRWM4H9

Movement: Self-winding caliber FC-

718; hours, minutes, seconds; date;

worldtimer; 38-hour power reserve

Case: 42mm; polished 18K rose gold;


Strap: Navy blue alligator leather with

off-white stitches

Price: USD14,995; limited edition of

88 pieces

FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH

MANUFACTURE

Reference Number: FC-760V4H4


FC-760; hours, minutes; subsidiary

seconds; chronograph; date; 38-hour

power reserve

Case: 42mm; rose-gold-plated polished

and satined stainless steel; waterresistant

to 50m

Strap: Brown alligator leather

Price: USD4,595

VITALITY SMARTWATCH

Reference Number: FC-287S5B6

Movement: Quartz caliber FC-287;

smartphone-connected; hours, minutes;

rechargeable battery with 11-day

operating time

Case: 42mm; polished stainless steel;


Strap: Black rubber

Price: USD1,000 up

LAUREATO ABSOLUTE PASSION

Ref: 81060-21-692-FH6A


1058; hours, minutes, seconds; date;


Case: 44mm; titanium with PVD

treatment; water-resistant to 300m

Strap: Rubber with red fabric effect


QUASAR AZUL

Ref: 99295-43-002-UA2A

Movement: Self-winding GP09400;

tourbillon; hours, minutes; tourbillon;


Case: 46mm; sapphire; water-resistant

to 30m

Strap: Anthracite fabric strap


QUASAR LIGHT

Ref: 99295-43-001-BA6A


1128; tourbillon, hours, minutes;


Case: 36mm; sapphire; water resistant

to 30m

Strap: Grey fabric with a metallic effect


44 IN TIME

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Time & Place

Glashütte Original lives up to its name.

Words Stephen Watson

The town of Glashütte is not a large place.

Nestled among bucolic rolling hills, flanked

by mighty age-old ore mountains, the town’s

population is stated around 6,800. It feels like less.

There is a cafe and a restaurant, a museum, a church,

no hotels. Twenty miles to the north, the city of

Dresden in “Silicon Saxony” is churning out millions

of microprocessors. In Glashütte, they are making

fine mechanical timepieces.

“The men and women of Glashütte are

like the rubies in a movement; steadfast,

resilient, and precious.”

The Glashütte

Original Senator

Chronometer

Tourbillon with

flying tourbillon

with a stop-second

mechanism, zero

reset, and minute

detent ensuring

the watch stays

precisely in sync.

Watchmaking in this region is distinctive, not

least because of its unique history. Glashütte, part

of the former Kingdom of Saxony, was once a mining

town. During the mid-19th century, faced with the

prospect of a declining industry, local watchmakers

convinced the King to invest in an independent Saxon

watch industry as a new future. In just a few years, the

town of Glashütte reinvented itself. Soon, the region’s

technical innovations were so renowned as to be

copied by some neighboring Swiss watchmakers. So

the Saxons began adding the inscription “Original”

to their products to distinguish authentic Glashütte

timepieces from mere copies.

Today, that moniker lives on as an awardwinning

company. Remerging after the Cold War to

international recognition, the Glashütte Original

Manufactory remains deeply connected to the Saxon

legacy of craftsmanship and precision engineering,

maintaining a vast corporate archive from before

German reunification. In these troves is the story of

the town, where specialist engineers and tradesmen

pivoted to horology, relying on ingenuity and burning

an independent streak. Residents were funneled

into apprenticeship programs, their livelihoods

dependent on mastering a new craft. When advanced

watchmaking tools could not be easily acquired, those

in Glashütte simply built their own.

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114611 Fri, Aug 14, 2020

This forward-looking approach and attention to detail is

a hallmark of modern-day operations at Glashütte Original’s

Manufactory. Even the smallest components still necessitate

the utmost care; toolmakers and prototype builders are rarely

idle. Every step along the way gets documented, examined via

microscope or projection, studied until perfected. That’s to say

nothing of the rigorous testing and evaluation. Only after this

intense technical scrutiny does the human hand begin to put the

movement together, undertaking the final assembly.

So it’s hardly surprising that Glashütte Original’s

in-house movements often land at the absolute top

end of Haute Horlogerie. Consider, for example, the

ingenious new Senator Chronometer Tourbillon, a

certified chronometer that undergoes 15 days of testing

in various positions and temperatures. Here, for the

first time, a flying tourbillon is combined with a minute

detent second-stop and reset mechanism. The oscillation

of the tourbillon, as always, counteracts the effects of

gravity on performance; since the second hand is part of

the tourbillon cage, it also stops immediately. Glashütte

Original challenged its watchmakers to find a way to halt the

spinning tourbillon while in full motion, and they succeeded.

Two patents are in the works for this construction.

The resulting complication pauses the time display and

resets the second display to zero while the crown is out,

advancing the minute hand synchronously, allowing the

time to be set with exacting precision. Meanwhile, a silicon

“The tourbillon attracts attention,

but its regular, pulsing rhythm

frees the eye to roam from one

function to the next.”

balance spring fortifies the movement against magnetism and

fluctuation, and shock protection guards both sides of the flying

tourbillon. When fully wound, the power reserve (displayed at

9 o’clock) runs for a full 70 hours. These functions are driven

by the manual wind Calibre 58-05, developed in-house by

Glashütte Original.

Outside, the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon draws on

traditional Saxon design codes to accompany the mechanical

complexity. With its multidimensional appearance, the dial

is visually halved to provide a unique glimpse into the watch’s

layered workings. The graphically sharp, Glashütte-striped

finishing on the upper half contrasts with the elaborate, ornate

hand engravings on the movement below. The galvanic blue

face, color-matched to various exposed blued screws on the

movement, floats gloriously above it all.

“Freedom to choose the layout of the watch dial is limited by the

mechanics of the movement, which is why we always have to keep the

dial in mind when designing a new movement.”

This page

The manually wound

Calibre 58-05,

developed by Glashütte

Original. Featuring a

refined second-stop

and reset mechanism,

which stops the time

display while the

crown is out, resets the

second display to zero

and keeps it there.

Opposite

Effortlessly crossing

borders and time

zones, the easy

to read Senator

Cosmopolite is ready

to travel the world.

With a platinum case, the

Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is

limited to 25 pieces. It’s certainly a

watch of occasion. Those aficionados

who appreciate the artistry but are

looking for increased everyday mileage

can turn to the Senator Cosmopolite,

now offered with a rich midnightblue

dial. Its overall design remains

conservative while prioritizing legibility and

functionality, adapting the classic Glashütte

Original codes to the age of air travel.

An internal time zone ring allows the watch to be set

to all 35 of the world’s time zones, using the official IATA

airport codes to set Daylight Savings Time and Standard

Time. Day/Night indicators for home and destination

time are offered with a simple look. The dial at the 12

o’clock position provides the

home time and power reserve;

small seconds are displayed at

six o’clock; the date at four. Large

sword style hands and luminescent

indices provide added clarity.

Sized at 44 mm, the Senator

Cosmopolite’s stainless steel case houses

Calibre 89-02, a 63-jewel automatic

featuring one of Glashütte Original’s

greatest contributions to watchmaking:

the double swan-neck fine adjustment. It’s all in the service

of precision, providing a robust 72 hour power reserve that

allows for two time zones to be displayed simultaneously,

removing the headache of calculating time differences while

jet-lagged. When the world gets back to traveling once again,

the Senator Cosmopolite will certainly be ready.

48 IN TIME



114613 Fri, Aug 14, 2020



114614 Fri, Aug 14, 2020

If the Senator pieces are a love ballad to Saxon history, the

Pano lineup is something like a remix. This collection extends

the romance of German watchmaking further, introducing

asymmetrical design cues for maximum personality points. The

PanoMaticLunar is steeped in character, presenting a more

contemporary take on Glashütte Original’s artistic flourishes.

Exquisite in-house dial colors (which include a deep galvanized

gray, a rich crème, and a vibrant navy blue) accompany a

beautiful recessed moon phase indicator.

The movement of light on red gold flatters the

PanoMaticLunar case shape. On the back, sapphire crystal allows

for viewing of the automatic Calibre 90-02, with its numerous

hand-beveled and engraved parts, working in unison to generate

a stout 42-hour power reserve. For those seeking a more everyday

classic, the PanoMatic Lunar is also offered in stainless steel,

demonstrating a versatile and contemporary approach toward

design within this collection.

With an unmistakably contemporary look, it’s sure to be

a hit with aesthetic-minded enthusiasts who will find endless

appeal in the PanoMaticLunar’s signature off-centered dial

configuration. Hours, minutes, and small seconds are shifted to

the left; the Panorama Date window and moon phase indicator

are on the right. The arrangement provides a considerable

amount of information at a glance: its lack of clutter allows the

eye to easily take in all functions, or quickly train over a specific

quadrant of the dial to reference the desired reading. Put

simply, it’s a masterclass in visual balance.

To achieve the look, Glashütte Original worked from

the Golden Ratio. This mathematical design principle—

commonly found in nature, and used for centuries in art and

architecture—determines the ideal relationship of proportions.

On the Pano, the hour and minute hands are strategically

placed to establish and enforce this spatial balance. It is, quite

literally, a perfect spatial exercise.

The ladies’ automatic

PanoMatic Luna

limited-edition

features small

seconds, second

stop, Panorama

date, off-center hour

and minutes, and

a charming moon

phase with tiny hearts

standing in for stars.

“What makes the watch perfect: a very complicated mechanism made simple in a

very visually pleasing manner, and easily understood by the wearer”

The off-center

appealofthe

galvanic blue

dial of the

PanoMaticLunar lies

in the mathematical

attractions of the

“golden ratio.”

These age-old design tenants are a recurring

theme across the Manufactory’s portfolio. Glashütte

Original knew the Golden Ratio, often seen in the

plant world, evoking a sense of harmony and balance,

would be especially effective when applied to ladies

watches. The challenge? Shrinking the asymmetry

down to size.

The PanoMatic Luna version measures just over

39mm, a slight reduction from the PanoMaticLunar,

but maintains divine proportions of the display: hour,

minutes, and small seconds on the left, moon phase

and date to the right. Backed by the 4Hz, 47-jewel

Calibre 90-12 movement, the PanoMatic Luna wears

its heart on its sleeve, with a mother of pearl dial and

a polished steel case, surrounded by 64 brilliantcut

diamonds, all hanging on a dark purple strap.

The winding crown’s oversized, 3mm diamond adds

a touch of old-school glamour. And speaking of

throwbacks…

IN TIME 51



114614 Fri, Aug 14, 2020



114615 Fri, Aug 14, 2020

Glashütte Original’s Vintage collection, which encompasses

the aptly-named Sixties and Seventies models, might just be

the pinnacle of irrepressible retro-cool. The pieces feature

imaginative case shapes inspired by fashion, music, and

architecture from decades where style disruption made waves.

They’re matched to unusual dial colors and finishes, another

hallmark of the Manufactory, often in limited-edition runs that

sell out quickly.

In previous years, the stainless steel Sixties has been

released with unique silver, black, dark blue, green, and orange

faces. For 2020, a pair of crisp new Sixties variations join the

line, offering a fresh glacier-blue dégradé dial. These special

looks are created by Glashütte Original’s dial manufactory in

Pforzheim, the German mecca of fine jewelry. A dial can take up

to 75 steps to complete, including up to six quality-control tests

along the way.

To achieve an extraordinary dégradé effect, the blank watch

faces are first given a sunray finish. They’re then pressed into a

domed shape and coated with galvanic nickel. Next comes the

hand-application of dark blue lacquer, at the edge. Finally, the

lighter glacier-blue lacquer, also applied by hand, is sprayed

over the entire dial. This renders each dial unique, ensuring a

particular gradient and luminous glow.

“The future interplay of all components first

demands the interplay of all participants,

every one of whom becomes a cog to transfer the

know-how from one department to the next.”

That’s not to say function has been sacrificed at the altar

of form. The glacier-blue Sixties is available as a three-hand,

time-only model or a two-bank chronograph; both house inhouse

Glashütte Original movements (the Calibre 39-52 and

Calibre 39-34, respectively). Both also boast a 40-hour power

reserve and are water-resistant to 3 bar, though collectors

are sure to think twice before exposing this limited edition’s

handsome nubuck calfskin strap to oceanic conquest.

The SeaQ Panorama

Date mixes red gold

with steel for a serious

dive watch that’s

not afraid of some

sporty yet glamorous

sophistication.

The shimmering

cloud-like glacier

blue dial of the

vintage collections

Sixties takes its

place as this year’s

annual special

edition for 2020.

For that sort of adventure, they’ll want Glashütte Original’s

latest collection, the Spezialist. This sporty new line came out

swinging last year, inspired by the historic Spezimatic Type RP TS

200 developed 50 years prior in Glashütte for scuba diving. This

year, a new version of the SeaQ Panorama Date diver’s watch

makes its appearance in the still-young collection, adding the

unexpected element of red gold trimmings to a stainless steel case.

This piece can also be had in full red gold, a true luxe spin on the

classic diver. Think of it as the ultimate timepiece for a getaway to

Tulum, St. Bart’s, French Riviera, or the Greek Islands.

No matter where you are, the 43.2 mm case is sure to

be noticed. On the backside, sapphire crystal reveals all of

the Calibre 36-13’s bells and whistles—beautifully finished

movement, beveled edges, polished Glashütte stripe, and a

21-carat gold oscillation weight. All this refinement doesn’t

hinder the SeaQ Panorama Date’s diving credentials. Certified

by both the German Institute for Standardization (DIN 8306)

and International Organization for Standardization (ISO

6425), the watch is water-resistant up to roughly 300 meters

and packs a power reserve of 100 hours. This year’s models are

introduced in a distinguished mix of materials—either a black

dial encased in red gold, or grey dial with a bi-color case that

merges stainless steel and red gold. A waterproof grey nylon

mesh strap or black rubber strap complements either look.

It also speaks to the Glashütte Original mindset. The

designers continue to dream, the watchmakers bring their

technical know-how; shortcuts are never allowed and parity is

taboo. Who says the Glashütte art of watchmaking can’t break

new ground in tourbillion technology, develop a sophisticated

asymmetrical design language, delve into retro-glam styling,

and reimagine underwater adventure using precious metals, all

at the same time?

This is independent thought and creative action, an example

of what sets German timepieces apart from all others. Nearly

two centuries after the Saxons began making watches, the

Glashütte Original Manufactory embodies the spirit of the

region. Something traditional, something different. But always

something very, very special.

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114617 Fri, Aug 14, 2020



114618 Fri, Aug 14, 2020

2020: The Colour of Time

2020: The Color

of Time

The year 2020 will be immortalized in our minds primarily due to a global pandemic that locked down

the entire globe in a vice-like grip of fear that can only be matched by the uncertainty of war. We

will all remember this year as a time of desperation, but also for the solidarity that comes from such

turmoil and the good that people did to support those less fortunate. All across the world, the symbol of hope

was the rainbow. It was a bright-colored beacon of positivity and appeared in windows, on T-shirts and on

coffee mugs. This symbol of hope, solidarity and gratitude glowed against the backdrop of chaos and fear.

And that’s the point of color; it can be used optimistically to change our moods, to brighten our minds and

cast a whole new perspective. This was well understood by Titian, whose incredible Venetian Renaissanceera

paintings were revered for his use of color. His signature flourishes were executed in the richest, purest

and most saturated hues possible, thus creating such beautiful realities, the like of which had never been

seen before. The impact of color isn’t lost on the watch industry either and 2020 has been awash with a

kaleidoscope of hues that cut through the gloom and offer an optimistic glimpse of happier times.

Patek Philippe 5370P-011 Split

Seconds Chronograph

This platinum chronograph continues

the epic tale of one of the most important

wristwatch chronograph families whose

vintage examples regularly command

a fortune at auction. This year, Patek

Philippe unveiled a platinum Split Seconds

Chronograph that is as aesthetically

stunning as it is a work of horological

mastery, thanks to its laterally coupled

rattrapante mechanism. Our founder Wei

Koh has already written extensively about

this watch, so here we’ll just wax lyrical

about its dial, which features a beautiful

hand-fired grand feu enamel finish in

blue, with wonderfully crisp and legible

white printing. And the icing on the cake is

the applied Breguet numerals, which are

inarguably the most desirable in the scope

of vintage chronographs and elegant dress

watches. And that blue? Simply stunning!

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

“Navy Blue”

Tudor’s illustrious past as suppliers

of military wristwatches to some of

the largest navies in the world is well

established. To many collectors and fans

of the brand, the vintage blue snowflake

watches from the 1970s are the epitome

of vintage Tudor watches and so the

blue version of the Black Bay 58 was big

news. The Black Bay 58 is a watch that

is leading the way for gents watches to

be smaller and at 39mm it’s the perfect

alternative to the regular 41mm Black

Bay for the vintage connoisseur. The

2020 blue version is so much more

than just a new colorway, this watch is

a celebration of Tudors early big crown

dive watches, the blue watches from

the ‘70s and the house signature of the

snowflake hands. And the blue color that

they created for the dial was perfect!

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59

Chronograph

It has to be said that during its launch in 2019,

the Code 11.59 received a somewhat lukewarm

reception, but the second installment of the

saga is here and stronger than ever. This time,

it’s all about the dials — more specifically,

the colors of said dials. The vast majority of

criticism at launch was the way the dials had

been executed, as the cases and movements

were actually pretty awesome. Nobody

can argue with 2020’s facelift of the Code

11.59, which now boasts stunning dials that

have a smoked lacquer finish over sunburst

executions: “Refined Intensity” is a sunburst

burgundy; “Ocean Deep” reflects what it says

on the tin with a stunning run through every

possible shade of blue, from the blackest navy

to vibrant royal blue; “Uncompromisingly

Purple” is sultry and smoky and works

particularly well against AP’s choice of pinkgold

case. What a comeback from a line that

was living under a shadow but which can now

boast its own take on the rainbow!

Blancpain Bathyscaphe Mokarran

Limited Edition

Launched in 2013, the Bathyscaphe is

seen as the 21st-century descendant of

the iconic Fifty Fathoms, a watch launched

in 1953 and issued to elite combat divers

in the French Navy. The 2020 watch is

the latest in a series of limited editions

of Bathyscaphes, this one in partnership

with the Mokarran Protection Society.

The Mokarran Protection Society is based

in Rangiroa in French Polynesia and is

dedicated to studying and protecting the

habitats of the great hammerhead shark,

and USD 1,000 from the sale of each of

the limited run of 50 pieces will be donated

to this effort. What makes this 43.6mm

black ceramic watch really pop is the use

of vibrant “tropical green” for the dial and

bezel, a beautiful hue for the watch. And

one thing for for sure, due to the limited

run, any onlookers of this watch on a lucky

owner’s wrist will be green with envy.

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis

Terrarum

In these times, what better way to remind

oneself of the importance of international

solidarity than by wearing a watch with

a globe on it? As 2020 is seemingly the

year of the blue dial, a welcome addition

to the fray is Montblanc’s Star Legacy

Orbis Terrarum. At Revolution, we’ve held

discussions about repurposing multitime-zone

watches during lockdown,

and there is no doubt that during this

prolonged period of daily Zoom, Google

Meet, Skype and WebX meetings, getting

a handle on what time it is across the time

zones that span the world, has never been

more relevant. Montblanc’s blue-dialed

watch is housed in a 43mm case with

stepped lugs and a very cool onion crown.

The textured map of the dial is beautifully

executed and gives the watch a new look

that is hard not to love.

Povey’s Vintage Pick — Rolex

Daytona reference 16516 with

unique lapis lazuli dial

I am a sucker for a Perpetual Daytona, and

so it was particularly exciting to learn that

Sotheby’s had a unique example with a

lapis lazuli dial for auction. Hard-stonedial

Daytonas are becoming ever more

popular with collectors, and this example

in stunning blue was a very important

discovery. This watch was only the secondever

platinum Zenith-era automatic

Daytona to surface, and the first-ever

Daytona to have a factory-produced lapis

lazuli dial. There have been Rolex Datejust

and Day-Date dials in lapis lazuli, but

never a Daytona (with the exception of

a prototype dial in a private collection).

And so it went under the hammer this

summer and fetched the record-breaking

price of approximately USD3.3 million,

the highlight of an auction season that

seemingly proved that the vintage watch

market was as strong as ever!

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Grand Seiko

When Grand Seiko became a separate manufacturer within the Seiko

Watch Company in 2017, they began to redefine their singularly

distinct identity with serious momentum. A 60th- anniversary year

in 2020 brought multiple celebratory collections — two artistic masterpieces,

a new Spring Drive movement, and new high-beat caliber. Special editions

abound, releasing stunning limited editions, keeping passionate collectors

constantly wanting more. With a stunning new headquarters in Shizukuishi,

Japan, and a global flagship in Paris, the cat is out of the bag for what was once a

well-kept insider secret by watch aficionados and collectors.

GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE

Reference Number: SBGD202

Movement: Calibre 9R01; hours,

minutes and seconds; stop seconds;

power-reserve display; 192-hour

power reserve

Case: 43mm; 18K rose gold; water

resistant to 100m

Strap: Crocodile leather; three-fold

clasp with push-button release

Price: USD42,000

GRAND SEIKO SPORT

Reference Number: SBGC223

Movement: Spring Drive 9R86; hours

and minutes; 24-hour hand (dualtime

display); calendar-linked time

difference adjustment function;

chronograph with 30-minute and 12-

hour counters; power-reserve indicator;

date; rotating bezel; stop seconds; 72-

hour power reserve

Case: 46.4mm; stainless-steel case with

ceramic bezel; water resistant t0 100m

Strap Hybrid titanium and ceramic

bracelet with triple-folding clasp

Price: USD14,800

TIMELINE

1960: Release of the first Grand Seiko

1967: The introduction of the 44GS

establishes the Grand Seiko style

1968: The 61GS introduces the first

Grand Seiko self-winding with a 10-beat

movement

1969: The 61GS V.F.A. super-highprecision

model delivers a monthly rate of

± one minute

1988: Introduction of the first Grand Seiko

quartz watch


quartz watch with 100m water resistance


quartz for women, with 10-second-a-year

accuracy

1998: The first new Grand Seiko

mechanical caliber in 20 years is

introduced, the 9S5

2002: The 9S56 Series introduces a

fourth-hand GMT function for the

first time

2004: The 9R6 adds the Spring Drive

calibre to Grand Seiko

2007: The Spring Drive 9R8 series

introduces a chronograph with vertical

clutch, column wheel, and GMT

indication

2009: Introduction of the 9S8 caliber, the

first new high-beat caliber for Grand Seiko

in 41 years

2010: The 9S65 series introduces a new

automatic caliber with a 72-hour

power reserve

2014: The caliber 9S86 combines highbeat

precision with a GMT function;

winner of the 2014 “Petit Aiguille” award

from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie

de Genève

2016: The first Grand Seiko with a fully

ceramic case; introduction of the Spring

Drive8Daypowerreserve—upto

192 hours

GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE

Reference Number: SBGH271

Movement: Automatic with manualwinding

capacity 9S85; hours, minutes

and seconds; date; stop seconds; 55-

hour power reserve

Case: 39mm; 18K white gold; waterresistant

to 100m

Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet; threefold


Price: USD6,300

GRAND SEIKO ELEGANCE

Reference Number: SBGY002

Movement: Calibre 9R31; hours,

minutes and seconds; stop seconds;


Case: 38.5mm; 18K yellow gold; splashresistant



Price: USD25,000

GRAND SEIKO SPORT

Reference number: SBGJ239

Movement: Calibre 9S86; hours and

minutes; 24-hour hand (dual time

display); calendar-linked time difference

adjustment function; date; rotating bezel;

stop seconds; 72-hour power reserve


to 200m

Strap: Crocodile leather; three-fold clasp

with push-button release

Price: USD6,600


Reference Number: SBGW263

Movement: Mechanical manual-winding

calibre 9S64; hours, minutes and

seconds; stop seconds; 72-hour power

reserve

Case: 39mm; platinum case with 18K

yellow-gold caseback; splash-resistant





Reference number: SBGK009

Movement: Calibre 9S63; hours and

minutes; small seconds; stop seconds;

power-reserve display; 72-hour power

reserve

Case: 39mm; stainless steel;

splash-resistant

Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet; threefold


Price: USD7,700

60TH ANNIVERSARY MECHANICAL HI-

BEAT 36000 80 HOURS

Reference Number: SLGH002

Movement: Automatic with manualwinding

capacity 9SAS; hours, minutes

and seconds; date; stop-seconds; 80-

hour power reserve

Case: 40mm; 18K yellow gold; waterresistant

to 100m




56 IN TIME

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Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, is a comparatively young

brand, founded by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey in 2004. And

while the brand may not have the decades or centuries of provenance

of some others, that’s not to say that founders lack experience — the pair had

worked together at the famed high-complication makers Renaud & Papi

since 1992.

A boutique atelier, Greubel Forsey produces a select number of exceptionally

high-quality watches in its pursuit of perfection in both the craft and the art of

watchmaking. The brand is renowned for its tourbillons — particularly the Double

Tourbillon 30 — a complex arrangement of a 60-second tourbillon nested inside

a four-minute tourbillon. The 60-second tourbillon runs at a 30-degree angle.

This helps to improve the overall timekeeping accuracy of the tourbillon. One

might thus be forgiven for expecting the watches of Greubel Forsey to be overly

technical — almost scientific — and inaccessible instruments, even though this is

not the case in reality.

Greubel Forsey’s creations blur the lines between watch and art. The brand’s

focus on achieving perfection of finish and construction is clear, and nowhere

is this more evident than in the Hand Made 1 — a watch made almost entirely by

hand, on hand-operated tools. Each watch requires some 6,000 hours (or three

years) of labour to complete; like everything that Greubel Forsey creates, it is a

painstaking and logical expression of watchmaking art.

TIMELINE

2004: Robert Greubel and Stephen

Forsey launch Greubel Forsey

2004: Greubal Forsey releases the

Double Tourbillon 30°

2009: GreubelForsey’snewAtelier

brings all of the brand’s watchmaking

under one roof

2012: Greubel Forsey presents the

Quadruple Tourbillon

2012: Greubel Forsey presents its

first non-tourbillon model, the Double

Balancier 35°

2012: Greubel Forsey releases the

Tourbillon 24 Secondes

2015: Greubel Forsey wins the Aiguille

d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

Genève for the Tourbillon 24 Secondes

Vision in white gold

2019: Greubel Forsey releases the GMT

Sport

GREUBEL FORSEY QP À ÉQUATION IN

RED GOLD

Movement: Manual-winding movement

with 24-second tourbillon; 24-hour

indicator; power-reserve indicator;

perpetual calendar with disc-based

display; mode-selector display; year;

equation of time on reverse

Case and dial: 5N red gold; 43.5mm x

16mm, chocolate brown dial


Price: CHF670,000

GREUBEL FORSEY HAND MADE 1

Movement: Manual-winding Caliber

Hand Made 1 with one-minute tourbillon

Case: White gold, 43.5mm by 13.5mm

Strap: Leather

Price: On request

GREUBEL FORSEY GMT SPORT

Movement: Manual-winding movement

with 24-second, 25-degree inclined

tourbillon; GMT; rotating globe with

universal time and day-and-night;

universal time

Case: Titanium with curved synthetic

sapphire crystal; three-dimensional,

variable-geometry shaped bezel with

raised engraved text; 45mm diameter,

15.7mm height; water resistant to 100m

Strap: Rubber

Price: CHF480,000

58 IN TIME

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Gucci

Like every surprising element creative director Alessandro

Michele brings to Gucci, watches are no mere licensed

afterthought. The Gucci timepiece collection presents

the same wit, charm and irreverence as seen in the rest of the

Gucci universe. The skateboard-inspired Grip continues to

evolve with unexpected details, including a special-edition

Mickey Mouse lounging on its distinctive cushion-shaped dial.

News for 2020 has brought a 40mm limited-edition Gucci

Dive watch with ties to FNATIC, adding gamers to the long list

of groundbreaking Gucci brand ambassadors.

TIMELINE

1921: Guccio Gucci opens his first store in Florence

1953: FIrst Gucci store opens in New York, the Gucci

horse-bit loafer is created

1961: GG logo is first used for accessories and clothing

1981: Ready-to-wear is shown for the first time

2000: Gucci becomes part of Kering

2011: Gucci celebrates its 90th anniversary

2019: Gucci ranks as one of the top brands in the world

under the leadership of Alessandro Michele

GUCCI GRIP CHRONOGRAPH (BLACK

DIAL)

Reference Number: Style 609924 I16X0

8489 - YA157301

Movement: Ronda quartz movement,

two windows indicating the hour and

minute and chronograph function

Case: 40mm; stainless steel case

Strap: Black rubber with interlocking Gs

Price: USD1,650

GUCCI GRIP IN GREY PVD

Reference Number: Style 632061 I8600

1000 - YA157429

Movement: Ronda 1006 quartz

movement; three black discs indicating

the hours, minutes and date

Case: 38mm; grey PVD

Strap: Grey PVD bracelet with

Interlocking Gs

Price: USD1,800

G-TIMELESS SLIM (BLACK SUNRAY

DIAL)


1402 - YA1265023

Movement: ETA F06.101 quartz

movement; hours and minutes; bee as

seconds hand


Strap: Nine-link steel bracelet

Price: USD1,300

FNATIC X GUCCI LIMITED EDITION

DIVE WATCH

Reference Number: Style 642921 I16X0

8489 - YA136333

Movement: ETAF06.111quartz

movement; hours, minutes and seconds;

rotating bezel


Strap: Black rubber

Price: USD1,620

GUCCI X DISNEY GRIP WATCH IN

YELLOW GOLD

Reference Number: Style 610019 I86A0

9894 - YA157420

Movement: Ronda quartz movement;

two windows indicating hours and

minutes

Case: 35mm; yellow-gold PVD case with

Mickey Mouse print

Strap: GG Supreme canvas strap

Price: USD1,650

GUCCI GRIP CHRONOGRAPH (SILVER

DIAL)


1108 - YA157302

Movement: Ronda quartz movement,

two windows indicating the hour and

minute and chronograph function


Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet

Price: USD1,800

G-TIMELESS SLIM (PINK LACQUERED

DIAL)

Reference Number: Style 632111 I18W0

8761 - YA1265017



seconds hand


Strap: Red lizard

Price: USD1,300

G-TIMELESS SLIM (GOLD SUNRAY

DIAL)


9812 - YA1265021



seconds hand

Case: 29mm; gold PVD

Strap: Nine-link yellow-gold PVD

bracelet

Price: USD1,300

G-TIMELESS SLIM (GOLD SUNRAY

DIAL)

Reference Number: Style 632120 I86A0

9730 - YA1265022



seconds hand

Case: 29mm; gold PVD

Strap: Taupe leather

Price: USD1,300

60 IN TIME

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H.Moser&Cie

Hamilton

Born in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, Heinrich Moser established H. Moser & Cie in

St. Petersburg in 1828, where his reputation grew as an artisanal watchmaker with

an eye for quality and elegance. By the 1840s, Moser was making watches for the

imperial court, and his movements were used in the ornate clocks by Peter Carl Fabergé.

The brand was revived under family-owned group MELB Holding in 2012 and enters

a new era with the dynamic Edouard Meylan at the helm. Today, Moser counts as one

of the most interesting and significant contemporary independent watch brands with

its roots in traditional haute horology. It has the know-how to create some of the best

looking fumé dials and the business acumen to create timepieces like the Swiss Alps

watch and acquire the rights to use Vantablack. And while you may recall the brand’s

various gimmicks, including the Swiss cheese watch and the Nature watch that boldly

forced us to confront the Swiss watchmaking industry in a new light, it’s this energy and

entrepreneurialism that make the brand so exciting.

Earlier this year, the brand launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, its first

foray into the luxury steel sports watch field that is both appealing and refreshing. And

to celebrate both their 15th anniversaries, Moser and MB&F announced their joint

partnership for two sets of limited-edition models that blend both brands’ technical and

aesthetic elements. In the midst of a pandemic, this level of camaraderie and creativity is

truly heartwarming — and the watches are pretty amazing too, of course.

TIMELINE

1828: Heinrich Moser sets off to St.

Petersburg to establish H. Moser

&Cie

1864: Moser returns to Schaffhausen

and transforms the town into the

center of watchmaking

1917: Moser’s operations in Russia

is expropriated in the October

Revolution

2005: Dormant for years, the brand is

revived by a group of entrepreneurs,

including Roger Nicholas Balsiger, a

descendant of Heinrich Moser.

2012: Georges-Henri Meylan, whose

grandfather was the co-owner of the

Moser business in Russia, acquires the

business under MELB Holding; his son

Edouard Meylan is appointed CEO.

For the first century of its life, Hamilton was one of the great names of

American watchmaking. Founded in 1892, its growth and expansion were

tied tightly to that of the American railroad network. Hamilton’s production

was heavily geared towards providing accurate pocket watches and other

instruments that kept the trains running on time. This proven reliability led to

Hamilton being used by aviator and explorer Richard Byrd on the first-ever flight

to reach the North Pole, a journey that lasted 15 hours and 57 minutes.

In 1932, Hamilton began a quest to conquer a very different type of frontier:

Hollywood. The legendary Marlene Dietrich was the first to wear the brand in the

film Shanghai Express. Other notable cinematic appearances include the 1951 war

drama film The Frogmen, and on Elvis Presley’s wrist in Blue Hawaii. More recently,

Hamilton has featured in out-of-this-world hits Interstellar and The Martian.

One notable moment in the history of Hamilton took place in 1970, when the

brand released some cutting-edge tech in the form of the Pulsar. It boasted the very

first digital LED display, which lit up when a button on the futuristic-looking case

was pushed. The new technology was a hit, and the distinctive design can be spotted

on many of the biggest names in the ’70s, including Roger Moore during his turn as

James Bond. Hamilton celebrated the 50th anniversary of this achievement with the

re-release of the Hamilton PSR, a seriously cool, nostalgic hit.

Today, the brand is based out of Biel and continues to produce robust,

reliable watches.

TIMELINE:

1892: Hamilton founded in Lancaster,

Pennsylvania

1918: Hamilton watches used by the U.S.

Airmail service

1926: Commander Richard Byrd uses a

Hamilton to time his flight to the North

Pole

1932: Marlene Dietrich wears a Hamilton

in Shanghai Express

1961: Elvis Presley wears a Hamilton

Ventura in Blue Hawaii

1957: Releases the world’s first electrical

watch movement, used in the Ventura case

1970: Produces the first LED digital

watch, the Pulsar

1971: Acquired by the Société Suisse pour

l’Industrie Horlogère, which became the

Swatch Group in 1984

2003: Headquarters and production

moved to Biel, Switzerland

ENDEAVOUR CENTER SECONDS

CONCEPT

Movement: Self-winding caliber HMC

200; hours and minutes; central hacking

seconds; Moser balance and Straumann

hairspring; three-day power reserve


blue dial; other colors available

Strap: Grey alligator leather with pin

buckle

Price: USD22,000

ENDEAVOUR CYLINDRICAL

TOURBILLON H. MOSER X MB&F


810; hours and minutes; one-minute

flying tourbillon with cylindrical

hairspring; 72-hour power reserve

Case and dial: Stainless steel; fumé dials

in funky blue, burgundy, cosmic green,

off-white or ice blue

Strap: Black alligator leather with steel

folding clasp


per color

STREAMLINER CENTER SECONDS


200; hours and minutes; central seconds;



matrix green dial; water-resistant

to 120m

Strap: Integrated steel bracelet with

folding clasp

Price: USD12,900

HAMILTON PSR

Movement: Digital quartz; hours and

minutes

Case: Stainless stee; 40.8 mm x 34.7

mm; LCD & OLED hybrid display; waterresistant

to 100m

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Price: USD745

HAMILTON JAZZMASTER SKELETON

AUTO

Movement: Self-winding caliber H-10-S

(ETA C07.111); open-worked black or

white dial; hours, minutes and seconds;


Case and dial: 40mm; stainless steel;


Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet or black

calf-leather strap

Price: USD1,245

HAMILTON KHAKI NAVY BELOWZERO

TENET SPECIAL EDITION

Movement: Self-winding caliber H-10

(ETA 2824-2); hours, minutes and


Case and dial: Titanium with black PVD;

46mm; black dial; water-resistant

to 1000m

Strap: Black rubber with PVD pin buckle

Price: USD2,095

Limited to 888 pieces

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Harry Winston

Hermès

The House of Harry Winston entered the world of horology with the launch

of the Premier Collection in 1989. Since then, the house has continued

to grow and expand its portfolio: the Midnight Collection showcases

the company’s classical tendencies; the Ocean Collection executes the perfect

balance between elegance and sportiness; and Project Z, launched in 2004,

embodies a technically demanding approach to watches using next-generation

materials and design philosophies. And, of course, we cannot omit one of

Harry Winston’s most exciting periods, which was when Maximilian Büsser

headed the watchmaking department and created Opus, seeding the idea for

what would subsequently become his own brand, MB&F. Launched in 2001,

the Opus Collection was a series of collaborations between Harry Winston and

master watchmakers, who worked together to develop extraordinary timepieces

that pushed the boundaries of watchmaking as we knew it. No shape was too

outrageous, no movement too impossible to create. For 2020, Harry Winston’s

ladies’ timepieces are once again back in the spotlight with color as the main

theme. The Premier Collection takes inspiration from the kaleidoscope, with

dials made from layers of colored mother of pearl and other precious stones.

And for the men, it’s the Project Z14, cased in Zalium, the house’s signature

alloy of aluminium and zirconium, that has our hearts.

TIMELINE

1932: Founded in New York City

1989: Enters watchmaking scene with the

Premier Collection

2001: Launches the Opus collection, then

headed by Maximilian Büsser to represent

collaborations between the House and

other master watchmakers

2004: Project Z debuts, introducing

the world’s first timepiece in Zalium, a

revolutionary alloy of aluminium

and zirconium

2007: Timepiece Manufacture opens

in Geneva

2009: Debuts the New York Collection

and the Histoire de Tourbillon collection

2010: The Winston Cluster motif, inspired

by lilies in bloom, is born

Hermès has over 100 years of history in watchmaking, although this detail is

often overshadowed by the successes of its other luxury departments. But

Hermès has been in the business of watches since 1912, and its commitment

to haute horlogerie is still evident in the pieces they present today. In the ‘30s up

to the early ‘70s, Hermès sold some of the most desirable watches in the world

that were double-signed by the company, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Universal

Genève, even Rolex. In 1978, Hermès opens up its own manufacture, La Montre

Hermès in Biel, and presents the first collection, Arceau, inspired by the shape of a

stirrup. Hermès watches have always been imbued with a unique sense of whimsy,

and this could not be truer in watches like the Arceau Temps Suspendu in 2011,

which was capable of suspending time on the dial while continuously running in the

background, and the Arceau l’here de la lune that was first released last year, which

gave a beautiful new interpretation of the moon phase indication.

In opening Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger in Le Noirmont, Hermès

successfully brought all its specialists under one roof, cutting down on production

time and giving the company the flexibility and capability to create the most

imaginative of timepieces. Its artistic dials are true works of art; taking inspiration

from past scarves designs and reinterpreting them on the miniature dials using

miniature painting, enamelling and marquetry.

TIMELINE

1837: Establishes in Paris with expertise

in crafting saddles and harnesses for

horses

1928: First watches bearing Hermès

signature presented

1978: La Montre Hermès S.A. opens in

Biel, Switzerland. First collection, Arceau,

launches

1991: Cape Cod debuts

2006: Acquires 25 per cent stake in

VaucherManufactureFleurier

2012: Acquires Natéber S.A, specialist in

watch faces

2013: Acquires Joseph Erard S.A for cases

2015: Hermès Slim is launched

2017: Case and dial entities are brought

under the name of Les Ateliers d’Hermès

Horloger

PREMIER MAJESTIC ART DECO

AUTOMATIC 36MM

Movement: Self-winding HW2008; hours

and minutes; 72-hour power reserve


black and white mother-of-pearl

marquetry dial; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Black pearl alligator leather with

matching ardillon buckle with diamonds

Price: On request

OCEAN BIRETROGRADE 36MM

Movement: Self-winding HW3302;

hours and minutes; retrograde seconds;

retrograde day; date; 65-hour power

reserve

Case: 18K white or rose gold; 36mm;


Strap: 18K white- or rose-gold bracelet

Price: On request

PROJECT Z14

Movement: Self-winding HW2202; hours

and minutes; retrograde seconds; 65-hour

power reserve

Case: Zalium; 42.2mm; water-resistant

to 100m

Strap: Textile-effect rubber; rubber base

with Zalium ardillon buckle with folding

clasp

Price: On request; limited to 300 pieces

ARCEAU L’HEURE DE LA LUNE

Movement: Self-winding H1837; hours,

minutes; date; double moon phase; 45-

hour power reserve


lunar meteorite dial; mother-of-pearl

moons; water resistant to 30m


tone to the dial

Price: On request

ARCEAU CHEVAL COSMIQUE

Movement: Self-winding H1912; hours,

minutes; 50-hour power reserve


aventurine and hand-engraved dial;



tone to the dial

Price: USD54,500

Limited edition to 24 pieces

SLIM D’HERMÈS GMT

Movement: Self-winding H1950 with

Agenhor-developed GMT module; hours,

minutes; date; GMT; day/night indication

for home/local time; 42-hour power

reserve

Case: 18K rose gold; 39.5mm; waterresistant

to 30m

Strap: Matte abyss blue alligator leather

with pin buckle

Price: USD19,675

64 IN TIME

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HYT

Hublot

When the first HYT timepiece was born — the H1 in 2012 — its approach was

firmly based on the most original and even unprecedented technological

innovation. The idea of successfully combining liquids — a natural enemy of

watchmaking — with high-end mechanics sounded unlikely. And yet, the small maison in

Neuchâtel succeeded, thanks to the innovative fluidic technology from Preciflex, a tech

company exclusively associated with HYT.

Today, after having mastered this hydro-horological technology, HYT has embarked

on a journey where its watchmaking know-how has acquired more emotional and artistic

overtones. Time now is not seen as a moment but as a succession of instances that places

us in a reality, where the past has been left behind and the future awaits us anxiously. This

idea is ideally represented by the time display of all HYT watches.

HYT’s SOONOW watches lead this romantic idea of the passage of time, only

now they are accompanied by a jovial and colorful execution. In particular, the Instant

Rainbow anchors its artistic idea in the skull contour of its delicate, hand-crafted 10-

fold capillary. Yellow and blue are shaped as the essential tones to represent the past

and future times, respectively. The other colors of the rainbow are gradually spread

throughout the 3D dial. The light makes the 668 sapphires, amethysts and tsavorites

shine in 14 color variations. In combination with the purple titanium dial, covered with

313 18K yellow-gold pins of different sizes, this increases the overall radiance and threedimensional

effect of the design.

The final iteration of the H20 reminds us that every beginning must have an end.

This limited edition of five pieces celebrates the series’ enormous capacity to shape

the brand’s past, present and future. The design of the H20 reflects this process in its

resemblance to a smooth stone that has stood the test of time perfectly.

TIMELINE

2010: The company is founded.

2012: The first H1 wins the Grand

Prix Innovation Watch Prize.

2013: In its first full year of

production, HYT makes about 150

watches.

2015: The launch of the H3 and

Skull collections.

2017: the H0 emerges as the

reinterpretation of the essential

HYT watch.

2019: The appearance of the H5

powered by caliber 501, made in

collaboration with watchmaker

Eric Coudray.

Hublot was established, in 1980, by Carlo Crocco. His idea

was to disrupt the rise of sports luxury watches fitted on

metal bracelets with one that would have its case fitted on

a rubber strap. The shape of this case is one that we’re all familiar

with today: a round case with its bezel in the distinctive shape of a

ship’s porthole, or “hublot” in French.

Crocco’s effort in building Hublot would get its first proper

drive into the 21st century with industry titan, Mr. Jean-Claude

Biver, taking the helm of the brand in 2004. It was he who

formulated the concept of “fusion.” But his greatest feat with the

brand was the launch of the Big Bang collection, which he created

and brought to market within the span of eight months, in time to

have the watch unveiled at Baselworld 2005.

However, a conversation with Mr. Biver will reveal that, as

opposed to the Big Bang, he attributes his success at Hublot to

having groomed the right protégé, the man who leads the brand at

the moment, Mr. Ricardo Guadalupe. The same Mr. Guadalupe,

who left the job that he had in 2004, to help Mr. Biver bring the

Big Bang to Baselworld 2005.

After 28 years as an independent brand, Hublot was acquired

by LVMH in 2008. This began a road towards vertical integration

and the opening of a manufacture facility in Nyon, Switzerland,

that has been progressively extended over the years. It has

given Hublot the capacity to manufacture its own chronograph

movement, the UNICO, which is best known for its integrated

column wheel visible on the dial side. Hublot also took in some

specialist watchmakers from its former supplier, BNB Concept, to

inaugurate its own Grandes Complications division.

Hublot has gone from strength to strength building its

horological and cultural reach, growing its relevance in several

universes far removed from watchmaking, such as in the world

of sports, contemporary art, music and much more. By doing

so, it is speaking to a new and young generation of watch lovers,

successfully attracting them to the world of Hublot.

SOONOW INSTANT RAINBOW

Reference Number: H02513

Movement: Manual-winding Chronode

caliber with patented proprietary fluidic

module; blue fluidic hours; seconds; 65-

hour power reserve

Case: 48.8mm; stainless steel with black

DLC coating; water-resistant to 50m

Strap: Black rubber

Price: USD 105,000; limited to

eight pieces

SOONOW DROP ONE


Movement: Manual-winding Chronode

caliber with patented proprietary fluidic

module; black fluidic hours; seconds;


Case: 48.8mm; stainless steel; waterresistant

to 50m

Strap: Black rubber

Price: USD79,000; limited to five pieces

H20 RED (FINAL VERSION)


Movement: Manual-winding APRP caliber

with patented proprietary fluidic module;

red fluidic hours; phase shift minutes;

crown position indicator; thermal


Case: 51mm; stainless steel with black

DLC coating; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Red rubber

Price: USD95,000; limited to five pieces

BIG BANG MILLENNIAL PINK

Ref: 441.UP.7320.NR.GIT20

Movement: Self-winding UNICO caliber

HUB1280; hours and minutes, seconds;



pink millennial anodized aluminum;


Strap: Pink millennial knit Velcro with

pink millennial stitching

Price and availability: USD20,900;


BIG BANG E

Ref: 440.NX.1100.RX (Titanium)

Movement: Google Wear OS with

Qualcomm and Snapdragon Wear 3100

processor; 1-day battery life; 2.5 hours

tochargeemptybattery


titanium; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Lined black rubber

Price: Titanium: USD5,200

Black ceramic: USD5,800

BIG BANG INTEGRAL

Ref: 451.CX.1140.CX (Ceramic)

Movement: Self-winding UNICO caliber

HUB1280; hours and minutes, seconds;



titanium, satin-finished and polished 18K

King Gold or satin-finished and polished

black ceramic; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Black ceramic bracelet

Price: USD23,100


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IWC

In the year 1868, seeing the availability of watchmaking talent

and industrial fervor in the city of Schaffhausen, 27-year-old

Bostonian Florentine Ariosto Jones travelled to Switzerland in

hopes of capitalizing on the country’s horological talent, to build

his own company. His ambition led to the International Watch

Company, better known today simply as IWC.

From the late 19th century into the 20th, and all the way

through to the 21st century, IWC has grown from strength to

strength, developing its own unique vocabulary for watchmaking,

and technologies that have helped and challenged the collective

industry to better itself. Take, for example, the Pallweber system

of displaying digital hours and minutes, and IWC Technical

Director Albert Pellaton’s idea to use a soft-inner iron core to

provide magnetic protection and his automatic winding system.

Some of the first instances of the use of titanium and ceramic in

watchmaking can be attributed to IWC. And, you can’t discuss

IWC’s many accomplishments without bringing up Kurt Klaus’s

Grande Complication, which was built on a Valjoux 7750 ébauche

and boasted the ability to adjust all of the calendar displays by

turning the crown backwards and forwards.

Owing to the extent of time the company has been around

and the history it has been a part of, there are various creations

of the manufacture’s that are icons by all measures of the word.

Timepieces such as the Mark 11, the Portugieser, the Ingenieur,

and of course, the direct descendant of the B-Uhr, which is the

modern-day Big Pilot.

Naturally, all of present-day IWC’s watch collections

are evolutions of these various icons. In the past decade, the

manufacture has taken upon itself to update and rejuvenate

these families on regular basis. For 2020, IWC has taken on

the Portugieser. The refresh includes a fair number of familiar

references, such as the Portugieser Chronograph, all of which now

boast the manufacture’s own developed movements.

But not just for the sake of refreshes, the 2020 Portugieser

also introduced a brand-new perpetual-calendar watch, the

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 and a brand-new complication

within the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. It is in this

manner that IWC ensures that its icons’ DNA is preserved in every

generation of watches, while at the same time making significant

advancements to progress the family of watches.

PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL

CALENDAR 42

Movement: Self-winding IWCmanufacture

calibre 82650 with Pellaton

automatic winding system; hours and

minutes; hacking seconds; perpetual

calendar with date, day, month, leap

year and perpetual moon phase; 60-hour

power reserve

Case and Dial: Stainless steel; 42.4mm;


Strap: Black alligator

Price: USD22,900

PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR


calibre 52610 with Pellaton

automatic winding system; hours

and minutes; small hacking seconds;

perpetual calendar with displays for the

date, day, month, year in four digits and

perpetual moon phase; 168-hour

power reserve

Case and Dial:18K red gold; 44.2mm;


Strap: Blue alligator

Price: USD37,900

PORTUGIESER YACHT CLUB

MOON & TIDE

Movement: Self-winding IWC

manufacture calibre 82835 with Pellaton

automatic winding system; hours

and minutes; hacking seconds; date;

perpetual moon phase for the northern

and southern hemispheres; tide display;


Case and Dial: 18K red gold; 44.6mm;


Strap: Rubber

Price: USD33,100

PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH

Ref: Ref. IW371615


manufacture calibre 69355; hours,

minute, seconds; chronograph; 46-hour

power reserve

Case and Dial: 41mm; stainless-steel;

green dial; water-resistant to 30m; other

colorways available


Price: Starts from USD7,950

PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC 42


manufacture calibre 52010 with Pellaton


minutes; small hacking seconds; 168-hour

power reserve


maroon dial; water-resistant to 30m;

other colorways available


Price: Starts at USD12,700

PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC 40


manufacture caliber 82200 with Pellaton


minutes; small hacking seconds; 60-hour

power reserve


water-resistant to 30m; other colorways

available


Price: Starts from USD7,250

PORTUGIESER YACHT CLUB

CHRONOGRAPH


calibre 89361; hours

and minutes; small seconds; flyback

chronograph; date; 68-hour

power reserve


water resistant to 60m; other colorways

available


Price: Starts at USD13,100

PORTUGIESER TOURBILLON

RÉTROGRADE CHRONOGRAPH


manufacture calibre 89900; hours and

minutes; minute tourbillon; chronograph;

retrograde date; 68-hour power reserve

Case and Dial: Platinum; 43.5mm; water

resistant to 30m

Strap: Blue alligator leather

Price: Starts at CHF105,000


PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR

TOURBILLON


Calibre 51950; hours and

minutes; perpetual calendar; perpetual

moon phase; flying minute tourbillon;


Case and Dial: Platinum; 45mm; waterresistant

to 30m

Strap: Blue alligator strap

Price: CHF133,000


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Jacob&Co.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

If there is one thing that distinguishes the timepieces by Jacob & Co., it is their audacity,

anchored in superlative mechanics and a degree of distinction that ostensibly separates

it from all other haute horlogerie creations. Here are three examples that confirm this.

The recent partnership between Bugatti and Jacob & Co. has just given birth to one

of the most impressive watches of recent years: the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. This

gigantic watch is a piece of high engineering as rarely seen before. The case is occupied

by a manual-winding caliber with a tourbillon regulator and an impressively functional

miniature of the W16 engine of the Bugatti Chiron hyper car. By activating the actuator

on the side of the case, the crankshaft rotates, the pistons move, and the miniature

turbochargers begin to turn — such delightful excess!

In another equally delightful universe, we now find the Opera Scarface. To honor

the legendary film Scarface (1983, directed by Brian de Palma), Jacob & Co. expanded

the Opera collection — comprising musical pieces, including one with the main theme

of The Godfather — to now include the Opera Scarface, performing the Bolivia theme

composed by Giorgio Moroder. When a push-piece is activated at 10 o’clock, the 120-

note music box plays the melody, while the entire dial rotates 120 degrees under the

domed sapphire crystal.

At the end of the rainbow that marks the entrance to the world of Jacob & Co., we find

the Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow. Designed to recreate a shiny and precious

garden on the wrist, this timepiece features the colors of the rainbow and a delicate

butterfly tourbillon. The tourbillon, the time display and the multi-colored sapphire

flowers on the upper level move around the dial in a clockwise direction, while the rainbow

sapphire-flowered mother-of-pearl baseplate moves in a counter-clockwise direction.

TIMELINE

1980: Jacob Arabo establishes his

jewelry company in New York

2002: First watch: the digital Five

Time Zone

2006: Birth of the Quenttin lateraltourbillon

watch with 31-day power

reserve,incollaborationwithBNB

2012: Opening of Swiss

headquarters

2013: Launch of the Epic SF24

world timer, first collaboration with

Luca Soprana who became the

mastermind behind Jacob & Co.’s

haute horlogerie

2014: First Astronomía watch

The unofficial nickname of Le Sentier-based Jaeger-LeCoultre is the

“watchmaker of watchmakers.” The reason for this somewhat selfreferential

sobriquet is that throughout much of its long history, Jaeger-

LeCoultre was the maker other brands (from Cartier to Patek Philippe) went

to if they needed a specific caliber. From ultra-thin to ultra-complex, Jaeger-

LeCoultre does it all. In fact, they have well over 1,000 distinct calibers on

their books.

In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre founded a small workshop in Le Sentier, in the

picturesque Vallée de Joux. This location — which the company still occupies

today — became significant not just for the brand, but for the Swiss watch

industry as a whole, as it was the first to consolidate a disparate cottage industry

of artisans and suppliers under one roof, which paved the way for modern

watchmaking practices.

These days Jaeger-LeCoultre is known not just for its mechanical prowess

(though the whirling masterpieces created in La Grande Maison’s well-lit upper

studios are the definition of masterpieces), but also for classically minded and

distinguished design. Take, for example, the Reverso: a 1930s sports watch with

a proud rectangular and innovative flip case that has maintained its relevance

in the decades since its introduction, and stands today as one of the true iconic

watch designs.

One of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s more recent lines, the Master Control, dates back

to 1992 and was created to combine watchmaking precision with the purity of

classical watchmaking. The Master Control — which is still going strong today —

definitely delivers on the classical promise, and the comprehensive “1000 hours

control” testing that each and every watch is subjected to, ensures that Jeager-

LeCoultre’s reputation for precision and accuracy lives on.

TIMELINE

1833: Antoine LeCoultre establishes

workshop in Le Sentier

1866: Elie LeCoultre brings watchmaking

skills under one roof

1903: Jacques-David LeCoultre and

Edmond Jaeger develop ultra-thin

watches

1931: TheReversoiscreated

1958: The anti-magnetic Geophysic

is created

1968: ThePolarisisreleased,adive

watch with an alarm

1992: The Master Control collection,

along with the ‘1000 hours control’ test,

is created

2007: The distinctive Duomètre, with a

mechanism for the complication and one

for the timekeeping, is released

2019: The Master Grande Tradition

Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétual —

the fifth multi-axis tourbillon model the

brand has created — is released

BUGATTI CHIRON TOURBILLON

Ref: BU200.20.AA.AC.A

Movement: Manual-winding calibre

JCAM37; hours and minutes; inclined

tourbillon; functional animated miniature

of the Chiron’s W16 engine; powerreserve


Case: 54mm x 44mm; black DLC

titanium; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Rubber

Price: USD280,000, customization

available

OPERA SCARFACE

Ref: OP110.40.AK.AA.ABALA


JCFM04; subsidiary hours and minutes;

triple-axis high-speed tourbillon; 120-

note musical box, rotating decorations

and baseplate; 42-hour power reserve

Case: 49mm; 18K rose gold; waterresistant

to 30m

Strap: Rubber

Price: USD360,000, limited to 88 pieces

ASTRONOMIA FLEURS DE JARDIN

RAINBOW

Ref: AF321.40.BD.AE.BBSAA


JCAM31; subsidiary hours and minutes;

double-axis flying tourbillon; rotating

decorations and baseplate; 48-hour

power reserve

Case: 42.5mm; 18K rose gold; rainbow

sapphires; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Satin or alligator leather


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Jaquet Droz

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER

CONTROL CALENDAR

Movement: Automatic caliber 866;

hours and minutes; small seconds; day;

jumping date; month; moon phases;



x 10.95mm; mix of satin and polished

finishes; sapphire caseback; water

resistant to 50m; silver sunray dial with

applied indices

Strap: Novonappa calf leather

Price: USD11,100


CONTROL MEMOVOX TIMER

Movement: Automatic caliber 956AA;

hours, minutes and seconds; date; alarm



finishes; water resistant to 50m; blue,

sunray-brushed dial with timer display

Strap : Leather

Price: USD11,600


CONTROL CHRONOGRAPH CALENDAR

Movement: Automatic caliber 759; hours

and minutes; chronograph, 30-minute

counter, date; day; month; pulsometer



finishes; sapphire caseback; water

resistant to 50m; silver sunray dial with

applied indices

Strap: Novonappa calf leather

Price: USD14,500

Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a clockmaker who travelled far and

wide to showcase his sophisticated clocks and automatons.

He had a life-long fascination with nature and birds, and

took every opportunity to incorporate them into the design of

his clocks, snuff boxes, pocket watches and automata. Making

his mark in Spain, France and London, Jaquet-Droz eventually

found his way to China, India and Japan with the help of trading

company James Cox London. Truly one of the first clockmaking

brands to make its presence in China, Jaquet-Droz very quickly

captivated the interests of Emperor Qianlong and the Imperial

Court. To this day, many of his automata and pocket watches

are still preserved in the Imperial Palace Museum. The passing

of both Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his son Henri-Louis, plus the

aftermath of the French Revolution, killed off any desire and

trade for luxury objects, bringing a chapter of great creativity

and prosperity to a close.

The year 2000 marked a revival for Jaquet Droz when it

was acquired by the Swatch Group to preserve the exceptional

heritage of its founder. The Grande Seconde was launched in

2002, inspired by a 18th-century pocket watch with the hour

and minute display at 12 o’clock overlapping the seconds counter

at six o’clock. In 2010, Montres Jaquet Droz S.A. returns to

its birthplace in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in which its horological

expertise and its atelier d’art continued to expand. 2013 marked

its 275th anniversary, an occasion for Jaquet Droz to release its

first singing bird automaton on a wristwatch: the Charming Bird.

The masterpiece won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in

the “Mechanical Exception” category two years later.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO ONE

RED-WINE

Movement: Quartz caliber 657; hours

and minutes

Case and dial: Stainless steel; 40.1mm x

20mm x 7.9mm; water resistant to 30m;

burgundy red dial

Strap: Leather

Price: USD5,350

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER GRANDE

TRADITION GRANDE COMPLICATION

movement: Manual-winding caliber 945;

hours and minutes; date and month; 24-

hour indication; orbital flying tourbillon;

sidereal time; minute repeater; celestial

disc; 40-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 45mm; 18K pink gold;

black dial with golden laser-welded

structure; water resistant to 50m


Price: On request

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER ULTRA

THIN KINGSMAN KNIFE

Movement: Manual-winding caliber 849,

hours, minutes; 35-hour power reserve

Case: 18K pink gold; 40mm; silver dial


Price: USD29,800

Limited to 100 pieces.

GRANDE SECOND QUANTIÈME IVORY

ENAMEL

Ref: J007020350

Movement: Self-winding 2660Q2 caliber;

Off-centered hours, minutes; large



12.10mm thick; Grand Feu enamel dial;


Strap: Light brown alligator leather with

gold ardillon buckle

Price: USD20,000

ATELIERS D’ART PETITE HEURE MINUTE

TIGER

Ref: J005034275

Movement: Self-winding 2653.P caliber;

off-centered hours, minutes; 68-hour

power reserve


black grand feu enamel dial with miniature

painting; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Black alligator leather

Price: On request


GRANDE SECONDE SKELET-ONE

Ref: J003525540

Movement: Self-winding 2663 SQ

caliber; hours and minute; large seconds;

skeletonized movement bridges; 68-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: Anthracite ceramic

plasma; 41.5mm; slate-grey dial; waterresistant

to 30m

Strap: Grey textile strap

Price: USD23,600

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Laurent Ferrier

Le Rhöne

The name Laurent Ferrier brings to mind timepieces of superlative quality. The

eponymous founder, the third generation in a family of watchmakers, studied

at the Geneva Watchmaking School before honing his skills at Patek Philippe,

where he achieved the position of product and development manager. This is reflected

in his offerings, which ooze a wonderful mix of formality and panache.

Back in the 1970s, Ferrier was a racing driver, competing in the legendary 24 Hours

of Le Mans seven times, coming first in the two-litre prototype category in 1977. This

proved crucial in an horological sense because this was when he met fellow driver and

industrialist François Servanin, with whom he co-piloted a Porsche 935T in 1979,

coming an overall third in the competition. When in 2009 his former motor-racing

partner gave him carte blanche to create his own watch, he responded with the timepiece

of his dreams: the Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral. This was the beginning of Laurent

Ferrier the brand.

Ferrier reconnected us all with the love for classical watchmaking, a remembrance of

things past, that we had almost forgotten. But now, thanks to him, it comes flooding back

to us more powerfully than ever. Laurent Ferrier would become our bridge between the

past and the present. His watches are the living, beating repository of horology’s greatest

collective memories. So artfully did he wield nuanced details inspired by 19th- and mid-

20th-century Swiss watchmaking that his vision felt like it had had existed for a century

or more, already permanently inscribed into the lexicon of horology’s great canon.

TIMELINE

1979: Laurent Ferrier and François

ServanintakethirdplaceintheLe

Mans24Hoursrace,atthewheelofa

Porsche 935 Turbo.

2009: Establishes Laurent Ferrier SA

2010: Launch of the Classic Tourbillon

Double Spiral which won the Best

Men’s Watch award at GPHG

2012: Launch of Classic Micro-Rotor

2013: Launch of Classic Traveller

2015: The cushion-shaped Square

wins GPHG

2017: Release of the Montre École

2019: Launch of first sports watch,

Tourbillon Grand Sport

2020: Classic Origin Opaline and

Classic Origin Green mark Laurent

Ferrier’s 10th anniversary as an

independent watchmaker

In 2013, two school friends, Loïc Florentin and Timo Rajakoski, took

their love of watches and launched Le Rhöne. With headquarters in

Geneva, traditional watchmaking techniques are utilized by these

unconventional thinkers to celebrate creativity. Haute horlogerie meets

bespoke specifications with the double tourbillons of the Horölogy, while

the Röad Racer takes its inspiration from the lines of ’60s muscle cars. The

Hedönia combines graphic aesthetics with the technical, and the Moön makes

an oversized aventurine or gem-set moonphase the dial’s focal point with

SuperLuminova stars replicating the night sky. The Vöyage allows for the easy

readability of travel time with local-time hours and minutes with a home-time

jumping hour indication at six o’clock.

TIMELINE

2013: Le Rhöne is launched

2014: Launches Röad Racer line; joins

Baselworld for the first time

2015: Introduces first brand

ambassador, Nicholas Almagro

2016: First double-tourbillon Horölogy

timepiece

2017: Develops new lines and

complications: Hedönia, Moön

2018: Development of the Vöyage line

and 37mm case

2019: Introduction of the Moön Act

Öne; introduces titanium and carbon to

the collection

2020: Introduction of the Moön Act Twö

CLASSIC ORIGIN OPALINE


LF116.01; hours, minutes, small


Case: 40mm in Grade 5 titanium; waterresistant

to 30m

Dial: White-silver opaline dial with a slate

grey hour circle and burgundy numerals

Strap: Light brown Barbialla calf leather

with Alcantara lining; pin buckle in grade

5 titanium

Price: USD31,000

GRAND SPORT TOURBILLON

Movement: Manual winding LF619.01

caliber; hours, minutes; small seconds;

tourbillon with double balance spring;

3Hz; 80-hour power reserve

Case: 44mm case in stainless steel; screwdown

caseback; water-resistant to 100m

Dial: Gradient blue opaline in centre and

black at the periphery

Strap: Integrated stainless steel integrated

bracelet with 3 links and folding clasp

Price: USD185,000

CLASSIC ORIGIN GREEN


LF116.01; hours, minutes, small seconds

at 6 o’clock; 80-hour power reserve

Case: 40mm in Grade 5 titanium; waterresistant

to 30m

Dial: Green gradient opaline dial with

a slate grey hour circle and yellow

numerals

Strap: Honey brown Timberland leather;

pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

Price: To be determined

MOÖN LIMITED EDITIONS, ACT-TWO

Reference Number: H5DD3J3L1-A61A

Movement: Automatic, fully developed

and manufactured in Switzerland;

hours and minutes; central moonphase

display; 42-hour power reserve

Case: 37mm; black titanium set with 56

baguette-cut amethysts; water-resistant

to 100m

Strap: Purple alligator leather

Price: USD117,500

74 IN TIME

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Multiple Choice

The Watches of Switzerland Group makes its top picks for 2020.

When it comes to “Best Of” lists, watch editors have it pretty easy. We

can pick the most radical designs, wildest complications, and far-out

concepts, making few considerations beyond fun factor and outright

wrist appeal. Why play it safe? For retailers, though, things can be trickier; a host of

additional real-world factors, from the availability and exclusivity to the price point,

start coming into play. It makes compiling such a list significantly more involved,

but arguably yields more interesting results. After all, a retailer’s choices can better

reflect the mood and direction of the market—and more accurately predict just

how far-out collectors might be willing to go. With that in mind, Revolution asked

our friends at Watches of Switzerland to submit their favorite pieces for 2020. We

were pleasantly surprised to find their selection skewed bold and exciting. It seems

that playing it safe isn’t in style: When we eventually compared lists, many of their

choices were our favorites, too.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

EGERIE MOON PHASE

Ref: 8005F/000R-B498

Movement: Self-winding

Caliber Ref. 1088L; hours,

minutes, seconds, stopseconds

device, moon phase

Case: 37mm 18k pink gold

Strap: Three interchangeable

alligator-leather straps

Price: USD32,700

PATEK PHILIPPE SPLIT-

SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH

- GRAND COMPLICATION

Ref: 5370P

Movement: Manual-winding

CHR 29-535 PS, hours,

minutes, seconds; date;

chronograph

Case: 41mm platinum

Strap: Shiny dusk blue

alligator with large scales

Price: US$263,090

TUDOR BLACK BAY 58

NAVY BLUE

Ref: 79030B

Movement: Automatic Calibre

MT5402 (COSC); hours,

minutes, central seconds,

stop-seconds

Case: 39mm stainless steel


Price: US$3,700

GRAND SEIKO X WOS TŌGÈ

SPECIAL EDITION

Ref: SBGM241


caliber 9S66; hours, minutes,

central seconds; GMT; date

Case: 39.5mm stainless steel

Strap: Brown crocodile

leather with green stitching

Price: US$5,200

HUBLOT X WOS

AEROFUSION

CHRONOGRAPH

Ref: 525.CM.0173.LR.AUM20


HUB1155; hours, minutes,

central seconds, date

Case: 45mm satin-finished

and polished black ceramic

Strap: Black rubber and

alligator, deployant buckle

Price: US$17,700

BULGARI SERPENTI

SEDUTTORI TOURBILLON

Ref: 103260 (white gold)

Movement: Manual-winding

caliber BVL150; hours,

minutes; tourbillon

Case: 34mm 18k white gold

set with diamonds

Strap: Alligator leather strap

Price: USD82,000 (white gold)

CARTIER PASHA DE CARTIER


caliber 1847 MC, hour,

minute, central seconds; date


Strap: Interchangeable

stainless steel bracelet and

grey alligator leather strap

Price: USD6,700

VACHERON OVERSEAS

PERPETUAL CALENDAR

ULTRA-THIN

Ref: 4300V/120R-B509


Calibre 1120 QP/1; hours,

minutes, perpetual calendar

Case: 41.5mm 18k pink gold

Strap: Interchangeable

pink gold bracelet, alligator

leather, rubber

Price: USD88,500

AUDEMARS PIGUET CODE

11:59 CHRONOGRAPH

Ref: 26393BC.OO.A068CR.01


Calibre 4401; hours, minutes,

central seconds; date

Case: 41mm 18k white gold

Strap: Large square scale

burgundy alligator leather

with white gold pin buckle

Price: USD42,400

BREITLING SUPEROCEAN

HERITAGE 57’ LIMITED

EDITION BLACK

Ref: A103701A1B1A1


caliber Breitling 10; hours,

minutes, seconds; date


Strap: Stainless steel mesh

bracelet or black calfskin

leather strap

Price: US$5,025

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

MASTER CONTROL DATE

Ref: 4018420


Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre

899AC; hours, minutes,

central seconds, date


Strap: Brown leather strap

Price: US$6,700

THE ENDEAVOR

CYLINDRICAL TOURBILLON

H. MOSER X MB&F LIMITED

EDITION

Ref: Ref. 1810 Burgundy


caliber HMC 810; hours,

minutes, seconds; date


Strap: Alligator leather strap

Price: US$79,000

OMEGA’S SEAMASTER

PLANET OCEAN 36TH

AMERICA’S CUP

Ref: 215.32.43.21.04.001


Master Chronometer

Calibre 8900; hours, minutes,

central seconds; date

Case: 43.5mm stainless steel

Strap: Structured rubber

Price: US$7,050

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Longines

Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, located in the Swiss Jura, Longines

developed, as early as 1878, its first instrument for timing sport events: a

chronograph pocket watch with a monopusher crown. Some years later,

in 1889, Longines was already able to measure time to 1/5th of a second. The

1880s marked the start of Longines’s glorious history of sports timing at horseracing

events in the United States. By working as a professional timekeeper of

sporting events in nearly all disciplines and as a manufacturer of instruments

for pilots, navigators, explorers and sportsmen, Longines was always pushing to

improve the accuracy, precision and functionality of its watches.

From working on professional timepieces, Longines transferred its knowhow

to wristwatches. To do so, the heart of the watch — the movement — often

needed to be redesigned and miniaturized, and culminated in the brand’s

first wrist chronograph in 1913, the first high-frequency pocket chronograph

ticking at 36,000 beats per hour in 1929 (caliber 18.72) and the world’s first

wristwatch with rotating bezel in 1931; they also patented the world’s first

flyback- chronograph in 1936. To improve the precision of timing sports events,

in 1954, Longines introduced the electronic quartz clock, and later launched

one of the first quartz wristwatches in 1969.

TIMELINE

1832: Founded in Saint-Imier, as

Raiguel Jeune & Cie

1867: The factory in Saint-Imier produces

its first movement, the calibre 20A

1878: Longines produces its first

chronograph caliber 20H

1899: Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoie,

the Duke of Abruzzi, goes on an Arctic

expedition equipped with Longines

timepieces

1908: Longines wins first prize at the

Neuchâtel Observatory’s pocketchronometers

contest for precision

1919: The International Aeronautical

Federation names Longines as its official

supplier

1931: Legendary aviator Charles

Lindbergh designs a navigational

instrument with Longines, the Lindbergh

Hour Angle Watch

1936: Longines creates the legendary

chronograph calibre 13ZN

1945: The brand releases its first selfwinding

movement, the calibre 22A

1954: The manufacture’s first quartz

clock, the Chronocinégines, sets

records for accuracy at the Neuchâtel

Observatory: with a 16mm camera

attached, it allows sports officials to

track athletes’ movements as they pass

the finish line, with images taken every

1/100th of a second; the company also

launches its iconic Conquest line

1983: The manufacture joins the

esteemed ranks of the Societe Suisse de

Microelectronique et d’Horlogerie, now

known as the Swatch Group

1999: “Elegance is an attitude” is adopted

as the company’s unforgettable slogan

2005: Longines unveils the fully

mechanical Master collection

2013: Longines further strengthens its

ties to equestrian sport with the signing

of a partnership with the International

Equestrian Federation

2019: Longines celebrates its

50,000,000th timepiece, which is

launched from the iconic Master

collection

LONGINES HERITAGE CLASSIC

CHRONOGRAPH 1946

Movement: Self-winding caliber L895.5

(ETA A31.L21); hours and minutes; small

seconds; chronograph; 54-hour

power reserve


to 30m

Strap: Black leather with pin buckle

Price: USD3,050

LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST

“KHAKI GREEN”

Movement: Self-winding caliber L888.3;


hour power reserve

Case: 41mm or 43mm; stainless steel;

green ceramic bezel insert; waterresistant

to 300m

Strap: Green rubber strap or steel

bracelet with diving extension

Price: USD1,600

LONGINES HERITAGE CLASSIC TUXEDO

Movement: Self-winding caliber L893;

hours and minutes; small seconds; 64-

hour power reserve

Case and dial: 38.5mm; stainless-steel

case; silver opaline and black dial; waterresistant

to 30m


Price: USD2,000

LONGINES SPIRIT COLLECTION

Movement: Self-winding caliber L888.4

or calibre L688.4; hours, minutes and

seconds; date; 64-hour power reserve;

COSC-certified


grained silver dial; stamped with five

applied stars; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Steel bracelet or leather straps

Price: USD2,250

LONGINES HERITAGE CLASSIC

CHRONOGRAPH TUXEDO

Movement: Self-winding caliber L895;

hours and minutes; small seconds;

chronograph; tachymeter; 54-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: 40mm; stainless-steel

case; silver opaline and black dial; waterresistant

to 30m


Price: USD3,000

78 IN TIME

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Louis Moinet

MB&F

Ateliers Louis Moinet was founded in Saint-Blaise, Neuchâtel, in 2004. The

totally independent company was created to celebrate the memory of Louis

Moinet (1768-1853), a master watchmaker who genuinely left his mark, having

invented the chronograph in 1816 and by pioneering the use of very high frequencies

(216,000 vibrations per hour). Watchmaker, plastic artist, and professor at the École des

Beaux-Arts, Moinet also wrote the Traité d’Horlogerie, a comprehensive document on

watchmaking published in 1848 that remained a definitive reference work for a century.

Today, the Ateliers Louis Moinet perpetuates his legacy, either as unique models or as

limited editions comprising two categories: cosmic art and mechanical marvels.

Within the astral domain, the Metropolis series has earned a place in modern

horlogerie d’auteur, thanks to its definition of forms and proportions accompanied by

highly artistic design and elements that are literally out of this world. For instance, the

Metropolis Mars contains, encapsulated at three o’clock, a fragment of a

Martian meteorite.

In terms of mechanical marvels, we would never omit the Memoris, the chronograph

with which Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet, pays tribute to Moinet’s original

1816 chronograph. The Memoris was designed mainly as a chronograph; therefore, on

the front side of the movement, all the components of the monopusher chronograph can

be seen, leaving the time indication on a small dial. Two of the iterations of this awardwinning

watch are: the Memoris Scarab features a time display made from 12 elements

of the Indonesian green beetle (Sternocera aequisignata), while the Memoris Titanium’s

use of the lightweight metal, in combination with its blue and orange colors, earned it a

Red Dot award for Good Design.

TIMELINE

1768: Louis Moinet is born in

Bourges, France

1806: The creation of a clock for

Napoleon Bonaparte, which marks

Louis Moinet’s beginning as a

master watchmaker

1816: Creation of the world’s first

chronograph

1848: Publication of Traité

d’Horlogerie

2004: Atelier Louis Moinet is

founded by J.M. Schaller

2016: introduction of the Memoris

chronograph

The world would never have had MB&F if it wasn’t for Henry-John Belmont,

then CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, who convinced a fresh-out-of-college

Maximilian Büsser to join his company with the proposition: would he

rather be one among 200,000 in a big corporation, or be among four or five

people who could save a beautiful company?

Following his stint at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Büsser joined Harry Winston to head

its watchmaking department. In seven years, Harry Winston Rare Timepieces

increased revenue from USD8 million to USD80 million. It was also there that

Büsser began the Opus series, where he realized he was happiest when developing

concept-style watches with his best mates in the industry. Thus, the idea for

MB&F (short for Maximilian Büsser and Friends) was born. The first Horological

Machine No. 1 was presented in 2007, a totally original timepiece with a threedimensional

figure-8 case designed by Eric Giroud, and a movement with four

barrels in parallel developed by Laurent Besse and Peter Speake-Marin. The

HM1 broke every convention in watchmaking and established MB&F’s place in

contemporary haute horlogerie. The Legacy Machine line was born in 2011 to

imagine machines that MB&F would have created 100 years ago. Today, MB&F

has presented 10 Horological Machines and seven Legacy Machines, each unique

and charming in its own way. Apart from these two lines, MB&F is also known for

its co-creations with clockmakers like L’Epée, and this year, its highly anticipated

collaboration with H. Moser & Cie.

TIMELINE

1998: BüsserbecomesCEOofHarry

Winston, where he created the groundbreaking

Opus series

2005: Motivated by the success of the

Opus series, Büsser sets off to create his

own brand, MB&F

2007: The three-dimensional

architecturalHorologicalMachineNo.1

is born

2011: The Legacy Machine debuts, the

first round-case design

2011: Opens MB&F M.A.D. Gallery to

house MB&F’s Horological Machines and

other mechanical art and sculptures

2016: Joins the Salon International de la

Haute Horlogerie (SIHH)

2019: Introduces the first ladies’

timepiece, the Legacy Machine FlyingT,

which won the Ladies’ Complication Prize

at GPHG

METROPOLIS MARS

Reference Number: LM-45.10.MA

Movement: Mechanical automatic

calibre LM45; hours, minutes, seconds;

48-hour power reserve.

Case: Steel, 43.2mm, water-resistant to

50m


Price: On request; limited to 60 pieces

MEMORIS SCARAB

Reference Number: LM-54.70


calibre LM54; hours, minutes,

monopusher chronograph; 48-hour

power reserve.

Case: Titanium; 46mm; water-resistant

to 50m


Price: CHF 54,000

MEMORIS TITANIUM

Reference Number: LM-79.20.30


calibre LM79; hours, minutes;

monopusher chronograph; 48-hour

power reserve


to 50m


Price: CHF 26,000; limited to 28 pieces

LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER

Movement: Manual-winding calibre; hours

and minutes; floating balance wheel with

Straumann double hairspring; 45-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: Stainless steel with domed

sapphire crystal; 40mm; fumé dial in

Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Red or Yas

Marina Blue

Strap: Calf leather with stainless-steel

and titanium folding clasp

Price: USD52,000; limited to 15 pieces in

HM NO. 10 “BULLDOG”

Movement: Manual-winding movement;

hours and minutes; power-reserve


Case and dial: Titanium; 54mm x 45mm x

24mm; water resistant to 50m

Strap: Blue calf leather with titanium

folding clasp

Price: USD105,000

LEGACY MACHINE FLYINGT IN RED

GOLD

Movement: Automatic FlyingT calibrE;

hours AND minutes; flying 60-second


Case and dial: Red gold; 38.5mm; white

lacquer dial over black guilloché dial

plate; bubble-shaped crystal; water

resistant to 30m

Strap: Calf or alligator leather with pin

buckle


80 IN TIME

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Montblanc

Nomos

Founded in 1906 in Hamburg, Germany, Montblanc

first rose to international prominence for its writing

instruments. While it entered the field of watchmaking

as early as 1997, it was not until 14 years ago when the company

bought Minerva, an esteemed watch movement manufacturer

based in Villeret, Switzerland, and established its watchmaking

research institute, that it became part of the exclusive club of

luxury watchmakers.

From that moment on, the wealth of horology knowledge

from Minerva was to be supported and further developed

by Montblanc and Davide Cerrato, head of Montblanc’s

watchmaking and the mastermind behind the maison’s current

success. With Cerrato, Montblanc has been developing

timepieces rich in value-conscious creativity. Series like

Star Legacy, Heritage and 1858 lead a strong and unflappable

offensive that is redefining the concept of affordable

watchmaking.

The 1858 Geosphere is a beautiful world-timer watch that

essentially reshaped the category by virtue of its superb design

and functionality. The 2020 Geosphere now wears cool shades

of blue and white. Another highlight of Montblanc’s strengths’

is the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition — a

monopusher chronograph in the tradition of those classic

timepieces of the mid-20th century that took advantage of the

superb chronographic techniques and know-how of Minerva.

Finally, fusing all the corners of our world is the Star Legacy

Orbis Terrarum, a true multi-time-zone watch that reinterprets

the classic graphic style of these watchmaking works of art,

taking advantage of an efficient mechanism that keeps the price

down without detracting from its innovative aesthetics.

In 1990, just a few weeks after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Ronald Schwertner founded

Nomos in the German town of Glashütte, deep in the heart of the Saxony. From its

humble beginnings, Nomos was characterized by the purity of its designs — where

style is at the service of function, as established by the Bauhaus movement that emerged

in Germany in the 1930s — and by high-quality mechanical movements, characterized

by the delicacy and precision of their finishings. Today, Glashütte is a term that defines

German watchmaking — the name itself is considered as a registered “designation

of origin” for German watchmaking — while Nomos is the nation’s number one

watchmaker. The firm boasts of being a genuine manufacture, producing 95 per cent of

the components used in its watches, including the balance spring.

This year, German watchmaking and Glashütte celebrate 175 years, as it was in

1845 that Ferdinand Adolph Lange founded his company in the town. As a proud local

company, Nomos pays tribute to those 175 years of watchmaking art here with three

limited-edition watches. To spearhead this subtle celebration, Nomos has chosen

the Ludwig, its most classically featured model with elongated Roman indices, the

chemin-de-fer minute track and, on the models that carry it, the date at three o’clock.

Additionally, for the commemorative Ludwigs, leaf-type hands were added.

The Ludwig Neomatik Date model crowns the capsule collection and incorporates the

DUW6101 automatic caliber with a date display that playfully employs Roman numerals

that distinguish it from other Ludwigs. The other two jubilee editions — Ludwig 175 Years

Watchmaking Glashütte and Ludwig Neomatik 39 — also feature a sapphire caseback

with a special celebratory inscription and are each limited to 175 pieces.

TIMELINE

1845: Ferdinand Lange starts his

watchmaking enterprise in Glashütte,

Saxony

1990: Nomos is founded in Glashütte

1992: First collections debut:

Tangente, Ludwig, Orion and Tetra

2005: The first automatic Nomos

Tangomat launches

2013: First gold-case watch: the

Lambda

2014: Creates the patented

Nomos Swing System, the brand’s

proprietary escapement

2015: Launch of the DUW 3001

miminatik caliber

2018: New DUW 6001 automatic

movement, presented in the new

Autobahn and Update

2019: First metal bracelet in the

Tangente Sport

STAR LEGACY ORBIS TERRARUM

Ref: 126108 (stainless steel)

Movement: Mechanical self-winding

caliber MB 29.20; hours, minutes,

multiple time zones; 42-hour power

reserve

Case: Steel; 43mm; sapphire caseback;


Strap: Crocodile leather with metalcoordinated

triple-fold clasp

Price: USD6,800

HERITAGE MANUFACTURE

PULSOGRAPH LIMITED EDITION

Ref: 126095

Movement: Manufacture manual-winding

calibre MB M13.21, hours, minutes,

seconds; monopusher chronograph

Case: 18K rose gold; 40mm; domed

sapphire glass box; water-resistant

to 50m

Strap: Brown sfumato alligator leather

Price: USD33,000

1858 GEOSPHERE

Ref: 125565

Movement: Self-winding, caliber MB

29.25; hours, minutes, second time zone;


Case: Titanium; 42mm.

Strap: Crocodile leather strap or a new

bracelet.

Price: USD5,800 USD (leather strap);

USD6,200 (steel bracelet)

LUDWIG NEOMATIK DATE 175 YEARS

WATCHMAKING GLASHÜTTE

Movement: Mechanical self-winding

DUW 6101; hours, minutes and small


Case: Stainless-steel; 40.5mm; waterresistant

to 50m

Strap: Horween Shell Cordovan

Price: USD4,200

LUDWIG NEOMATIK 39 175 YEARS

WATCHMAKING GLASHÜTTE

Movement: Self-winding DUW 3001;

hours, minutes and small seconds; 43-

hour power reserve.

Case: Stainless-steel; 38.5mm; waterresistant

to 50m


Price: USD3,800

LUDWIG 175 YEARS WATCHMAKING

GLASHÜTTE

Movement: Self-winding Alpha; hours,

minutes and small seconds; 43-hour

power reserve

Case: Stainless-steel; 35mm; waterresistant

to 50m


Price: USD2,260

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Omega

Founded in 1848, Omega has long been a staple name in the realm

of Swiss watchmaking. It continues to remain synonymous with

watchmaking excellence, precision and innovation, and has

introduced many of the industry’s most groundbreaking technologies,

including the revolutionary Co-Axial escapement. In 2015, Omega

worked alongside the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS),

to create the Master Chronometer certification — the Swiss watch

industry’s highest standard of testing. The first watch to emerge from this

rigorous new testing was the Globemaster. The brand is also defined by

its pioneering spirit. In 1965, the Speedmaster was officially certified by

NASA for all manned missions. Omega watches accompanied astronauts

on all six lunar landings and remain an official part of NASA kit. Omega

is also the only watchmaker that has served as Official Timekeeper at the

Olympic Games for 28 times.

TIMELINE

1848: Watchmaker Louis Brandt founded La

Generale Watch Co., a predecessor of Omega,

in La Chaux-de-Fonds

1879: After Louis Brandt’s death in 1879, his

sons, César and Louis-Paul, take over the

business

1880: Under the new name Louis Brandt & Fils,

the company moves to the town of Biel/Bienne

1894: The Brandt brothers release the

legendary 19-ligne calibre and crown their new

achievement “Omega”

1903: The success of the movement is so

great that the brothers rename the company to

Omega Watch Co.

1932: Omega becomes the first watchmaker to

time an entire Olympic Games, a partnership

that still continues today

1948: The brand launches the now-iconic

Seamaster

1952: The first Constellation is born

1957: Three legends are born when OMEGA

introduces its Professional line of watches:

the Speedmaster, the Seamaster 300 and the

Railmaster

1962: Astronaut Wally Schirra wears his own

Speedmaster into space, making it the First

Omega in Space

1965: NASA qualifies the Speedmaster for space

flight

1969: The Speedmaster becomes the

“Moonwatch” thanks to the Apollo 11 mission

1970: The Omega Speedmaster plays an

important role in bringing astronauts from the

Apollo 13 mission back to Earth

1995: The Omega Seamaster becomes James

Bond’s watch

1999: Omega releases the Co-Axial escapement

2008: ThebrandreleasestheSi14balance

spring, which when pairs with its Co-Axial

movement gives watches outstanding reliability

and stability

2015: A new quality standard is created: Master

Chronometer

2017: Omega unveils its new building

2019: Omega re-introduces its legendary

caliber 321

OMEGA CONSTELLATION

Movement: Self-winding Master Chronometer caliber

8801; hours, minutes; date; power reserve of 55 hours

Case: 39mm; two-tone steel and 18K Sedna gold; waterresistant

to 50m

Strap: Matching two-tone steel and 18K Sedna gold

bracelet

Price: USD11,200

OMEGA DE VILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION

Movement: Manual-winding Master Chronometer caliber

2640; hours, minutes and seconds displayed on central

tourbillon, power-reserve indicator; 72-hour power

reserve

Case: 43mm; 18K Canopus gold and 18K Sedna gold;


Strap: Black leather with gold buckle

Price: USD168,000

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M 36TH

AMERICA’S CUP LIMITED EDITION

Movement: Self-winding Master Chronometer caliber

8900; hours, minutes and seconds; date; Co-Axial

escapement; 60-hour power reserve

Case: 43.5mm; stainless steel; ceramic bezel and dial;


Strap: Structured rubber strap

Price: USD7,050; limited to 2,021 pieces

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH CHRONOGRAPH

TEAM ALINGHI

Movement: Manual-winding caliber 1865; hours and

minutes; small seconds; chronograph; regatta timer;

tachymeter; 48-hour power reserve

Case: 44.25mm; black ceramic; water-resistant to 50m

Strap: Perforated black and red rubber strap

Price: USD10,800

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Oris

Parmigiani Fleurier

The story of Oris began on the 1 June 1904, when Paul

Cattin and Georges Christian signed an agreement to

start a watchmaking adventure that has since spanned

several generations, based in the Swiss village of Hölstein.

Originally from Le Locle, watchmakers Cattin and

Christian saw an opportunity at hand to build a manufacture

in a village that was otherwise in financial turmoil in that time.

Their vision was to produce watches that utilized industrial

production methods without losing the emotional qualities of

Swiss watchmaking.

It was thanks to this vision that Oris became the largest

employer in the region by 1910 and one of the 10 largest watch

companies by the 1960s. Alas, like all of Swiss watchmaking,

Oris too was not spared the downturn during the Quartz

Crisis. But it persevered on, retaining its independence and its

core values.

Today, Oris is probably best known for their Divers

Sixty-Five family of dive watches, with vintage good looks and

no-nonsense tool-watch qualities. Another popular collection

from Oris is their ProPilot family of aviation-themed watches,

which are also robust tool watches.

The biggest leap the ProPilot collection has taken as of

late is with the ProPilot X, which is a daring new take on

Oris’s own watchmaking, with a clear 21st-century kick seen

in the titanium case and integrated bracelet that form

the watch.

Parmigiani Fleurier was founded in 1996, after the Sandoz

Family Foundation recognized the talent in Michel

Parmigiani as a watchmaker and gave him the right push

and resources to set up his own brand. Parmigiani, who had

spent most of his life restoring antique timepieces, including

Sandoz’s collection, and important pieces from the Musée

Patek Philippe and the Chàteau des Monts, built his brand

upon his immense knowledge, with a focus on traditional

finishings and beautifully made calibres. Today, the brand’s

CEO is Davide Traxler (Michel Parmigiani remains very much

involved in his brands but more behind-the-scenes), who

is refreshing the brand’s image with the release of the new

Tonda GT line, which has a more casual case shape and a more

attractive price point.

TIMELINE:

1976: Michel Parmigiani opens his workshop, restoring

antique pieces by day and dreaming up horological pieces by

night

1980: The Sandoz Family Foundation entrusts its collection

to Parmigiani for maintenance, and encourages him to create

his own brand

1996: The Parmigiani Fleurier brand is created

1999: The Toric QP Retrograde is unveiled

2000: TheacquisitionofLesArtisansBoîtiersallows

Parmigiani to become a vertical manufacture

2003: Vacher Manufacture Fleurier is created, specialising in

high-end watch movements

2004: Partnership with Bugatti

ORIS x MOMOTARO

Movement: Self-winding Oris caliber

733 movement; hours, minutes and


Case: 40mm; stainless-steel;

unidirectional rotating bezel with bronze

edge; water-resistant to 100m

Bracelet/Strap: Indigo Momotaro denim

with two white ‘battle stripes’; stainlesssteel

buckle

Price: USD2,200

ORIS HÖLSTEIN EDITION 2020


771 movement (Sellita 510 base); hours,

minutes and seconds at nine o’clock;


Case: 43mm; bronze; unidirectional

rotating bronze bezel with bronze insert;


Bracelet/Strap: Multi-piece bronze


Price: USD5,200; limited edition of 250

pieces

ORIS CARYSFORT REEF LIMITED

EDITION


798 movement (Sellita 330-1 base);

hours, minutes and seconds; GMT; 42-

hour power reserve

Case: 43.5mm; stainless-steel;

bidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic

insert; water-resistant to 300m

Bracelet/Strap: Stainless-steel bracelet

or orange rubber

Price: USD3,000 (bracelet), USD2,800

(rubber); limited edition of 2,000 pieces

TONDA GT ROSE GOLD BLUE

Movement: Self-winding caliber PF044;

hours and minutes; small seconds; big


Case: 18K rose gold; 42mm; blue

guilloché dial; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: 18K rose-gold bracelet or rubber

Price: USD49,500 (rose-gold bracelet) or

USD24,900 (rubber strap); limited to

150 pieces

TONDAGRAPH GT STEEL BLACK


hours and minutes; small seconds; big

date; chronograph; annual calendar; 45-

hour power reserve

Case: Stainless steel; 42mm; black

guilloché dial; water-resistant to 100m

Strap: Integrated stainless-steel bracelet,

orrubberstrap

Price: USD19,500 (bracelet) or

USD18,500 (rubber strap); limited to

200 pieces

TORIC TOURBILLON RED GOLD SLATE


hours and minutes; 60-second tourbillon;


Case: 18K red gold; 42.8mm; slatecoloured

guilloché dial; water-resistant

to 30m

Strap: Hermès Havana alligator with gold

pin buckle


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Panerai

With roots dating back to the

1930s, Panerai has become

a modern-day phenomenon

with a collection of sporty, oversized

watches based on luminous diving

tools and timepieces created for the

Royal Italian Navy. With a manufacture

based in Neuchâtel, virtually all

movements get produced in-house, and

groundbreaking concepts and innovative

materials continually push the brand

forward. This spirit of adventure fuels

the narrative of the current collection,

with bold ambassadors and links to

America’s Cup and Prada’s Luna Rossa.

2020 is the year of the Luminor, with

new pieces paying homage to its history,

while pushing technical boundaries with

its innovative Laboratorio di Idee.

TIMELINE

1860: Officine Panerai Workshop opens

1916: FilesfortheRadiomirPatent

1936: The first Radiomir Prototype

1940: The introduction of the Radiomir

1940 case

1943: Introduction of the Mare Nostrum

1949: Radiomir is replaced by Luminor

1950: Luminor case is introduced

1956: Officine Panerai develops the

“Egiziano” for the Egyptian Navy

1993: The first pre-Vendôme Officine

Panerai Collection

2001: Officine Panerai’s international

launch

2002: Opening of the Panerai

Manufacture in Neuchâtel

2005: Officine Panerai’s first in-house

movement, P.2002

2010: Introduction of the Tribute to

Galileo Galilei

2011: Officine Panerai presents the

Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days

Automatic Bronzo

2012: Return of the historic 1940 case

2014: Officine Panerai opens its new

manufacture at Pierre-à-Bot, on the hills

of Neuchâtel

2016: Panerai launches the Radiomir

1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon

GMT and the Luminor Due

LUMINOR LUNA ROSSA GMT

Reference Number: PAM1036

Movement: Calibre P.9010/GMT

automatic mechanical movement; hours

and minutes; small seconds; date; GMT

Case: 44mm; titanium DLC

Strap: Calf Ponte Vecchio black with

white stitching

Price: USD11,200

LUMINOR MARINA GOLDTECH SOLE

BLU


Movement: Calibre P.9010 automatic

mechanical movement; hours and

minutes; small seconds; date

Case: 44mm; brushed Panerai Goldtech

Strap: Dark-blue alligator with beige

stitching

Price: USD22,900

LUMINOR MARINA





Case: 44mm; brushed titanium

Strap: Panerai Sportech blue with

white stitching


270 units

PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA DMLS





Case: 44mm; sandblasted DMLS titanium

with Carbotech bezel

Strap: Black Panerai Sportech with

anthracite stitching

Price: USD15,000

LUMINOR MARINA CARBOTECH





Case: 44mm; Carbotech

Strap: Black fabric with white stitching


270 units

LUMINOR MARINA





Case: 44mm; brushed stainless steel

Strap: Dark-blue alligator with

beige stitching

Price: USD7,700

LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH





Case: 44mm; Fibratech

Strap: Black fabric with white stitching


270 units

LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH

VULCANO BLU





Case: 44mm; Fibratech with

Carbotech bezel

Strap: Dark-blue Panerai Sportech with

white stitching

Price: USD16,000

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Patek Philippe

Post-Baselworld breakup, the industry (at least the media) held its collective

breath when Patek Philippe announced there would likely be no new

releases until 2021. An early Christmas present arrived mid-June when

Patek Philippe announced a steel Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 to celebrate the

completion of its new production building in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva. A

modern timepiece in steel, the Calatrava hit all the right notes with an almost

casual look and sporty blue “carbon-style” textured dial and blue strap.

An even bigger surprise arrived mid-July, with the blockbuster

introduction of three additional Grand Complications. First, the Ref. 5270J-

001, a yellow-gold chronograph with a perpetual calendar; second, the Ref.

5370P-001, a platinum split-seconds chronograph; and lastly, the Ref.5303R,

a rose-gold minute-repeater tourbillon. Patek Philippe’s combination of

history, technical and artistic mastery, and blockbuster auction results, places

them entirely in a league of their own. There are few manufacturers that

are able to influence the pace and direction of an entire industry, and Patek

Philippe is one of them.

TIMELINE

1839: Patek, Czapek & Cie is founded

by Antoine Norbert de Patek and

François Czapek

1845: Patent for keyless winding and

hand-setting system

1868: Patek Philippe creates the first

Swiss wristwatch, made for Countess

Koscowicz of Hungary

1925: Patek Philippe creates its first

wristwatch with a perpetual calendar,

No. 97 975

1927: James Ward Packard collects his

astronomical pocket watch,

the No. 198 023

1932: The launch of the first Calatrava

1933: The “Graves” supercomplication

pocket watch is created for

Henry Graves Jr.

1968: Launch of the Golden Ellipse

1976: Launch of the first Nautilus

sport watch

1989: Launch of the Caliber 89 with

33 complications to mark 150 years of

Patek Philippe

1993: Launch of the Gondolo collection

1997: Launch of the Aquanaut

1999: Launch of the first Twenty~4

collection

2014: Patek Philippe celebrates its

175th anniversary

2015: Launch of the Calatrava Pilot

Travel Time, Ref. 5524G

2016: Launch of the

Grandmaster Chime

2018: Launch of the World Time Minute

Repeater, Ref. 5531R

2018: Launch of The Twenty~4

Automatic, Ref. 7300

2019: Launch of the Alarm Travel Time,

Ref. 5520P-001, and the Calatrava

Weekly Calendar, Ref. 5212A-001;

Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand

Exhibition in Singapore

GRAND COMPLICATIONS –

CHRONOGRAPH PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Reference Number: Ref. 5270J-001

Movement: Manual-winding CH 29-535

PS Q; hours, minutes; small seconds;

chronograph; instantaneous 30-minute

counter, perpetual calendar; date

Case: 41mm; yellow gold; waterresistant

to 30m

Strap: Chocolate-brown alligator leather

with square scales; fold-over clasp

Price: USD168,970

GRAND COMPLICATIONS – MINUTE

REPEATER TOURBILLON

Reference Number: Ref. 5303R-001

Movement: Manual-winding R TO 27

PS; hours and minutes; small seconds;

minute repeater with chime on two

classic gongs; tourbillon

Case: 42mm; rose gold

Strap Shiny black alligator leather with

square scales; fold-over clasp

Price: On request

CALATRAVA - NEW MANUFACTURE 2019

Reference Number: Ref.6007A Limited

Edition

Movement: Self-winding caliber 324 S C;

hours, minutes and seconds; date;



to 30m

Strap: Grey-blue calfskin embossed with

afabricpattern

Price: On request; limited edition

of 1,000

GRAND COMPLICATIONS – SPLIT-

SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH

Reference number: Ref. 5370P-011


CHR 29-535 PS; hours, minutes and

seconds; split-seconds chronograph;

instantaneous 30-minute counter

Case: 41mm; platinum; water-resistant

to 30m

Strap: Shiny dusk blue alligator leather

with square scales; fold-over clasp

Price: USD263,090

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Piaget

Rado

The quest for ultimate thinness has always been at

the heart of Piaget. In 1874, at the very beginning of

Piaget’s existence, its founder Georges Édouard Piaget

dedicated his career to making high-precision movements,

and then later, ultra-thin movements. In 1957, the world

was introduced to the legendary caliber 9P, a hand-wound

movement that is only 2mm thick. The caliber 12P came later at

1960, and since then, more than 25 ultra-thin movements have

been developed at Piaget, each more impressive than the last.

Apart from ultra-thin, Piaget has always had an eye for

glamor. The modern-day Limelight Gala is inspired by a model

from 1973, when the brand’s famous Piaget Society was in its

heyday, harnessing the charm and influence of Salvador Dali,

Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Andy Warhol, Cary Grant

and Sammy Davis Jr. It was Piaget’s audacious spirit that

led it down the bold quest for ultra-thin, and it’s this same

audacity that inspires their watches, jewellery lines and artistic

endeavours today.

TIMELINE

1874: Georges Édouard Piaget sets up a workshop to make

high-precision movements for top Swiss brands

1943: Piaget, the brand, is registered and begins producing

their own watches in La Côte-aux-Fées

1945: New manufacture is built, with a reputation for ultrathin

movements

1957: Debuts the legendary caliber 9P

1960: Launches the caliber 12P

1964: Launches the world’s first hard-stone dials

1979: The Piaget Polo watch is launched

1998: The Piaget Altiplano is launched

2001: New manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates

2010: Sets world record for thinnest automatic movement

and thinnest automatic watch

2014: LaunchoftheAltiplano900Pat3.65mmthick

2018: The Altiplano Ultimate Concept is launched; the entire

watch measures just 2mm thick

Rado was born as the Schlup & Co. watchmaking company

by brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner in 1917. Theirs was

a small workshop, set up within their parents’ home.

However, while their start was modest, by the end of World

War II they had became among the largest producers of watch

movements in the world.

The name Rado came into effect in the 1950s with the

Golden Horse collection of watches making its debut in 1957.

In 1958, the company followed through with the Green Horse

collection, which was their water-resistant timepiece. Before

the 1960s kicked in, Rado was an international brand present in

some 61 countries.

In the following decade, Rado developed a reputation for

using hard metal and for bringing sapphire crystals into the

watchmaking landscape. In fact, later in 1986, it was Rado that

was responsible for giving the Swiss watch industry its first

instance of a scratch-resistant bracelet in high-tech ceramic.

It is the company’s know-how in the use of ceramic that

truly sets them apart today as they were also the first to create

a completely integrated case and bracelet in ceramic, and then

going on to explore ever-more innovative forms of ceramic.

The turn of the new millennium saw Rado continue to push

the boundaries with ceramic, producing the ultra-slim True

Thinline, in 2011, measuring in at a mere 5mm thickness. These

all-ceramic watches opened up a new chapter for Rado and

made “high-tech design” its calling card. In 2012, the company

mastered ceramic such that they no longer even needed to use a

steel core, opting instead for a monobloc case in ceramic.

Today, Rado is having great success reintroducing many

of their vintage watch designs, but executing them in modern

proportions, such as the Captain Cook Bronze, the DiaStar

with a hard-metal bezel and the 1957 Golden Horse.

ALTIPLANO TOURBILLON INFINITE BLUE

Ref: G0A45043

Movement: Manual-winding caliber 670P;

hours and minutes; flying tourbillon;


Case and dial: 41mm; 18K white gold;

blue sunburst PVD dial set with diamonds;


Strap: Blue alligator leather; white-gold

folding clasp set with diamonds

Price: On request; limited edition of 38

pieces

ALTIPLANO ULTIMATE CONCEPT

Ref: G0A45502

Movement: Manual-winding caliber 900P-

UC; hours and minutes; 40-hour power

reserve

Case and dial: 41mm; 2mm total

thickness; cobalt alloy; customizable dial


Price: On request; limited production

LIMELIGHT GALA

Ref: G0A45163

Movement: Caliber 690P quartz

movement; hours and minutes

Case and dial: 32mm; 18K white gold set

with 20 diamonds and 22 blue sapphires;

18K white-gold engraved dial with blue

grand-feu enamel

Strap: Integrated 18K white-gold bracelet

Price: On request

RADO CAPTAIN COOK BRONZE

AUTOMATIC

Movement: Self-winding ETA C07

movement; hours, minutes and running


Case: Bronze case and rotating bezel with

ceramic insert; 42mm; 12.5mm thick;


Strap: Leather with brushed bronze pin

buckle; Easy Clip system

Price: USD2,600

GOLDEN HORSE AUTOMATIC

Ref. R33930313 | 01.763.3930.4.031

Movement: Self-winding ETA C07.611

movement; hours, minutes and running


Case: Stainless-steel case; 37mm;

10.8mm thick; green dial; water-resistant

to 50m

Strap: Stainless-steel rice grain type

bracelet or leather strap

Price: USD1,800 (bracelet); USD1,700

(leather strap), non-numbered limited

edition of 1,957 pieces.

TRUE THINLINE ANIMA

Movement: Self-winding ETA A31.L02,

fully skeletonized; hours, minutes and


Case: Plasma ceramic, mono-bloc

construction in olive green; 40mm;

10.8mm thick; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Matte olive green ceramic with

titanium triple-folding clasp

Price: USD3,000, non-numbered limited

edition of 2,020 pieces.

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Everything that has happened this year with respect

to the pandemic and the economic repercussions

that, without discussion, have generated problems

throughout the world, invites us to pause and act

responsibly in the face of the uncertainties that each of

us may (or will) encounter on our respective paths.

But let us not let negativity bog us down. There is a

margin for us to indulge in our hobbies and passions, but

by means of a wise, conscious and responsible approach.

It would be foolish to insist on maintaining our lifestyles

without regard or restriction, but it is not unreasonable

to make some well-thought-out and financially

responsible adjustments that will allow us to continue

on the path of our horological love without breaking any

bank accounts or mortgaging the future.

I therefore invite you to take a look at a few of the

opportunities that the watch industry has offered us in

recent months. In particular, let’s talk about high-value

proposals, understood as attractive watches of great

quality and indisputable lineage and origin, which we can

buy and then wear with pride and satisfaction… and for

relatively little money.

For this selection, I focused on mechanical watches

launched this year. Of course, there’s nothing wrong

with opting for a quartz watch, or even a smartwatch.

The best watch is the one you like, no matter what I tell

you, but I thought it was essential to stick to mechanical

proposals because, believe me, they are more plentiful

and glorious than ever. I have limited the pieces to the

ones priced under USD5,000. (Note: official suggested

retail prices will vary a little in each region, depending on

conversion rates and taxes.)

While not all of these watches are available in

all regions, but it is our hope that they will serve as

inspiration and a starting point for your hunt for a new

“favorite” watch — that is, as we say in Mexico, a watch

that is good, nice and cheap.

The Hunt for the Best Values

LONGINES SPIRIT (L3.820.4.73.2)

Where to start with Longines? In recent

years, its vintage-inspired watchmaking

has earned a stellar place in the hearts

of collectors. But I chose the new and

modern Spirit chronograph (42mm) as a

recognition of the great offerings that the

houseofSaint-Imieralwayshasforall

of us.

Price: USD3,100

TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT NAVY

BLUE (79030B)

In the last few weeks you will have read

everything there is to know about this

awesome Tudor diver with its terrific blue

dial, but once again, let’s hail its great

overall package of technique, pedigree

and beauty.

Price: USD3,500

ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER HERITAGE

BROWN (AL-525BR4H4)

This superb diver comes at a fabulous

price and also offers a touch of autumn

fashion with its brown dial and 42mm

caseinbronzePVD,watertightto300m,

and the AL-525 automatic calibre — tet

another example of value emanating

from Alpina and Frédérique Constant.

Price: USD1,595

Words Israel Ortega

ORIS ORIS X MOMOTARO DIVERS

SIXTY-FIVE (733 7707 4337)

One of the most beautiful watches of

the year is this diver from Oris, another

example of its relentlessly valuable

watchmaking. The Oris X Momotaro, with

its faded green dial, bronze insert bezel

and Japanese denim strap, is a wonder

worthy of any collection.

Price: USD2,200

NOMOS LUDWIG NEOMATIK 41

DATE — 175 YEARS WATCHMAKING

GLASHÜTTE (261.S1)

Ever a personal favorite, this year Nomos

celebrates 175 years of Glashütte as the

watchmaking capital of Germany. The

classic Ludwig, with its Roman numerals

(even on the date!) and the gorgeous

manufacture neomatik calibre, is a

timeless Bauhaus beauty.

Price: USD4,200

SEIKO PRESAGE (SPB129)

Oneofmyfavoritewatchesthisyear

is the Seiko Presage in green, a limited

edition watch of 1,964 pieces that

was inspired by the 1964 Seiko Crown

Chronograph. There is no bad Seiko, but

this Presage, available in green, white

orblack,isanamazingtreasurewithan

unbeatable price.

Price: USD825

MONTBLANC 1858 MONOPUSHER

CHRONOGRAPH (125581)

Finding a new monopusher chronograph

from an established brand may sound

like an Ethan Hunt-worthy mission, but

Montblanc just showed us otherwise with

this piece from the lovely 1858 series. It

is another example of the values that the

Minerva culture has instilled throughout

Montblanc.

Price: USD4,900

BAUME ET MERCIER CLIFTON

BAUMATIC (10548)

It would be remiss of us not to propose

an elegant watch. So consider the new

Clifton Baumatic, with a Baumatic

manufacture caliber bearing a great

calendar-with-moonphase indication that

stands out against a very attractive grey

face. Yep, this one’s a winner.

Price: USD4,400

TAG HEUER AQUARACER 43MM

TORTOISESHELL EFFECT (WAY201P.

FT6177)

This updated and very attractive Aquaracer

serves as a good ending point for this

Kafkaesque summer. With a larger 43mm

case,TAGHeuer’saffordabledivershows

off a couple of new simulated tortoiseshell

bezels (in red or blue), giving it a very chic

look that rounds up the look and feel of this

automatic timepiece.

Price: USD2,600

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Reservoir

Richard Mille

The French company Reservoir was founded in 2015 on the initiative of François

Moreau, a businessman with a passion for watches and cars. From the outset he

had a very clear idea: to offer valuable and highly distinguishable watchmaking,

based on recognisable technical qualities.

All Reservoir watches feature a jumping hour, retrograde minutes and a power reserve

indicator. All elements follow the clear inspiration of measuring instruments, whether

for motor racing, aeronautics or navigation. This is a feat as technical as it is commercial,

if we understand that these complications are not widespread and, by definition, are

not necessarily affordable. However, Reservoir broke with this paradigm by offering

its Swiss-made complication — an ETA 2824/2 movement to which the firm added its

patented module of 124 components — at a remarkable price.

The new creation, the GT Tour Skeleton, takes its aesthetics further by visually

“lightening” the time display with retrograde minutes, a discreet jumping hour and the

power reserve at six o’clock. The transparent dial shows how the deep blue bridges of the

movement contrast with the brushed steel of the complications.

Accompanying the skeletonized GT Tour are the other variants of the classic motoring

–inspired series that are more conventional in appearance yet still undeniably attractive.

In the steel-cased model, the matte black face and the orange minute hand are inspired by

the contrast of these two colors in a racing car gauge, allowing for maximum legibility.

TIMELINE

2015: Founding of the brand by

François Moreau

2018: Debut of the Longbridge,

Reservoir’s purest and most classic

watch, inspired by vintage motoring

2019: Launch of Hydrosphere, the

first diver’s watch by Reservoir

When Richard Mille, the man, set out to create his

brand, he wasn’t making a watch, but rather carving

out a philosophy. His was the summation of a totally

new belief system that required every aspect of the watch —

from the way it was conceptualised, to the way it was built, to

the materials it used, to its resulting aesthetic — was the result

of this global system focused on three things: ultimate shockresistance,

ultimate lightness and ultimate ergonomics.

Armed with this philosophy, Mille created his first watch,

the RM 001, which, despite its $135,000 price tag (at the time

twice that of the next most expensive tourbillon by Breguet),

was sold out in less than 30 minutes.

From there, Mille went on to be the first to create a

baseplate in full carbon fibre, as well as invent the variablegeometry

rotor, the declutchable rotor, the mechanical G-force

sensor, laminated sapphire crystal — to name just a small

handful of the innovations that are attributed to the brand.

Richard Mille is also known be the first watchmaker to put a

watch on the wrists of elite athletes in the heat of competition.

It started with Felipe Massa donning a Richard Mille watch

throughout the complete durations of races, and of course,

Rafael Nadal has not appeared on court without a Richard Mille

strapped to his wrist since the first time he wore the 20-gram

RM 027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal at the 2010 French Open.

As for Massa, the story goes that having met with a devastating

accident during the 2009 Hungarian Grand Prix qualifying

stages, while in the hospital, he was very clear to point out

that the RM 006 he had strapped to his wrist was still keeping

perfect time.

Richard Mille stands today as a global cultural phenomenon,

preferred by artists and sports stars at the height of their fields.

All of this the brand has managed while continuing to push

horological boundaries, most recently with the introduction of

graphene into watchmaking, as seen in the case and movement

of the ultralight 38-gram RM 50-03, as the proprietary Graph

TPT®.

GT TOUR SKELETON

Reference Number: RSV01.GT/430-02


ETA 2824-2 with patented proprietary

module; 37-hour power reserve

Functions: Jumping digital hours; central

retrograde minutes; power-reserve

indicator


to 50m

Strap: Calf leather, fabric NATO strap

Price: USD6,300

GT TOUR BLUE EDITION




module; 37-hour power reserve



indicator

Case: Steel; 43mm; water-resistant to

50m


Price: USD4,000

GT TOUR CARBON




module; 37-hour power reserve.



indicator

Case: Laminated carbon; 43mm; water

resistant to 50m



RM 11-05 AUTOMATIC FLYBACK

CHRONOGRAPH GMT

Movement: Self-winding caliber RMAC3;

hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph

with 60-minute and 24-hour totalizers;

annual calendar with date and month

display; 50-hour power reserve

Case: 50.00 x 42.70 x 16.15 mm; front

bezel in grey Cermet, caseband in

Carbon TPT® and caseback in Grade 5

titanium; water resistant to 50m

Price: CHF204,000


RM 11-04 AUTOMATIC FLYBACK

CHRONOGRAPH ROBERTO MANCINI


RMAC3 in Grade 5 titanium with flyback

chronograph; annual calendar; large


Case: 44.5 x 49.94 x 16.5mm in

Carbon TPT®

Price: CHF185,000

RM 61-01 ULTIMATE EDITION YOHAN

BLAKE


RMUL2; hours, minutes, seconds; 55-

hour power reserve

Case: 50.23 x 42.70 x 15.84 mm; bezel

and caseback are made from Quartz

TPT® and Carbon TPT®, with the latter

material also featured on the caseband

and the large crown protectors

Price: CHF143,000


96 IN TIME

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Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis established his eponymous company in 1995,

having spent his earlier years at Longines, and then at

Patek Philippe, where he stayed for the better part of two

decades. The two collections that first debuted were extremely

elegant and detailed timepieces with baroque cases — striking a

fine balance between traditional crafts and avant-garde design.

Roger Dubuis had extremely stringent criteria for his watches,

taking care to machine watches that met the requirements of

the Geneva Seal, a tradition that the modern Roger Dubuis

timepieces have kept to today.

The modern Roger Dubuis brand looks and feels very

different from its beginnings, but the spirit of innovation and

originality remain. Since 2017, Roger Dubuis has announced

two partnerships with Lamborghini and Pirelli, which pushed its

watchmaking to new heights, taking inspiration and technology

from the motorsports sector and applying elements of it into its

watchmaking. In the words of CEO Nicola Andreatta: “At Roger

Dubuis, everything we do is about our mentality; it’s about the idea

of going beyond what is considered normal.”

TIMELINE

1985: Roger Dubuis is established; the first collections,

Hommage and Sympathie, appear

1999: Manufactures movements in-house, all certified as

chronometers by the Besançon Observatory and with the

Geneva Seal

2001: New facilities in Meyrin (Geneva) opens

2003: Produces its own balance wheels

2005: Debut of the Excalibur collection; the first skeletonized

tourbillon (RD01SQ) and first tourbillon with minute repeater

(RD08) appear

2008: Becomes part of the Richemont Group, fully acquired

by 2016

2016: Twokeycollectionsareestablished:Excaliburand

Velvet

2017: Roger Dubuis dies. The use of innovative materials,

such as cobalt and carbon, is accelerated. Beginning of the

relationship with Pirelli and Lamborghini

EXCALIBUR TWOFOLD


RD01SQ; hours, minutes, seconds;

double-tourbillon; 50-hour power

reserve.

Case: Mineral composite fiber, titanium

caseback, 45mm; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Rubber with SuperLuminova

treatment

Price: USD276,000


EXCALIBUR SPIDER HURACAN

Movement: Self-winding caliber RD630;


hour power reserve

Case: Titanium black DLC; 45mm; waterresistant

to 50m

Strap: Rubber and Alcantara

Price: USD49,000

EXCALIBUR DIABOLUS IN MACHINA


RD107; hours, minutes, seconds; minute

repeater; 72-hour power reserve

Case: CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur

composite, titanium caseback, 45mm,


Strap: 3D calf leather

Price: USD571,000, unique piece

98 IN TIME

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Rolex

Seiko

Rolex is one of those brands that always keep people on the edge of their

seats, speculating about what they will release next, and this year is

no different. What we do know is that Rolex is evolutionary and not

revolutionary, and the next batch of watches to come out of Geneva will be solid,

well-thought-out and highly nuanced offerings.

Rolex remains arguably the most recognisable and well-known luxury watch

brand on the planet, and its power extends not only to modern watches with

extensive waiting lists, but also to vintage pieces that are continuing to break

auction records year after year. The brand also has a veritable jukebox full of

self-penned hits, including goliaths such as the Submariner, Daytona, GMT-

Master, Explorer, Day-Date and Datejust. And one thing that they have proven

time after time is that these watches can be tweaked: dressed up in precious

metal and diamonds, dressed down in pure tool-watch mode and everywhere in

between, proving that they are timeless and limitlessly versatile watches.

If the Submariner isn’t the most recognisable watch ever produced, then it is

certainly the most imitated. If you ask a child to draw a watch, they will probably

draw a Sub, and yet the heritage of the brand’s sports watches is steeped in

sporting, military and scientific pursuits.

The dress watches from Rolex are no less conspicuous in life, having been

worn by presidents and world leaders for generations. And the signature feature

tying all these factors together is none other than the Oyster case. I’ve said this

before and will probably keep on saying it, but in my mind, the Oyster case is

one of the key designs of the 20th century and it is still as relevant today as it was

in the 1920s.

TIMELINE

1905: Hans Wilsdorf starts a company in

London specialising in the distribution of

timepieces

1920: Montres Rolex S.A. is registered in

Geneva

1926: Hans Wilsdorf launches the Oyster

case, creating the first waterproof watch

1927: The Testimonee concept is born

1931: The first self-winding wristwatch

with a perpetual rotor is launched

1933: The first expedition to fly over

Mount Everest is equipped with Rolex

Oysters

1945: The Datejust, equipped with the

Jubilee bracelet and a fluted bezel, is

born

1953: Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing

Norgay reach the summit of Mount

Everest and the Explorer is launched

in celebration; the first Submariner is

launched that same year, the first diver’s

watch waterproof to a depth of 100m

1954: Rolex unveils the dual-time-zone

GMT-Master

1956: Rolex introduces the Day-Date for

exceptional men and women

1960: The experimental bathyscaphe,

the Trieste, descends into the Mariana

Trench, 10,916m deep, with the Rolex

Deep Sea Special experimental watch

attachedontheoutside

1963: The Daytona chronograph is born

1967: The Sea-Dweller, waterproof to

610m, is launched

1976: The Rolex Awards for Enterprise is

launched

2000: The in-house chronograph calibre

4130 is released

2005: Rolexdevelopsandpatentsthe

Cerachrom bezel and the blue Parachrom

hairspring

2012: The Deepsea Challenge brings the

experimental watch down to depths of

12,000m

As Grand Seiko takes its bows for

its esteemed 60th anniversary, the

Seiko division of the Seiko Holding

Company provides a more entry-level

offering with the same shared heritage and

history of innovation. Founded in 1881,

Seiko has evolved from a shop selling and

repairing watches into a global leader

offering dress and sport watches with

mechanical and quartz movements. There

is something for every discriminating

buyer, from the more formal Presage

mechanical watches to the beloved sporty

Prospex divers. The remarkable Astron

adjusts to your current time zone by

connecting to the GPS network and never

needs a battery change by getting its energy

needs from light. The relaunched 5 Sports

delivers a fresh new look to the incredibly

well-priced tool-watch-inspired

collection. Coutura offers perpetual

chronographs and kinetic watches with

incredible functionality, all for under

USD1,000.

LUKIA

Reference Number: SPB135 Kurenai

Movement: Automatic Caliber 6R35;

hours, minutes, seconds; date

Case: 34.8mm stainless steel; waterresistant

to 100m

Strap: Interchangeable crocodile strap;

three-fold clasp with push-button

release

Price: USD1,300

PRESAGE ARITA PORCELAIN DIAL

LIMITED EDITION

Reference Number: SBP171

Movement: Automatic Caliber 6R27;

hours, minutes, seconds; power-reserve


Case: 40.6mm stainless steel; waterresistant

to 100m

Strap: Crocodile; three-fold clasp with

push-button release


PRESAGE STUDIO GHIBLI PORCO

ROSSO COLLABORATION LIMITED

EDITIONS

Reference Number: SNR047

Movement: Automatic Spring Drive

caliber 5R65; hours, minutes, seconds;

date; power-reserve indicator

Case: 40mm stainless steel; waterresistant

to 100m

Strap: Crocodile; three-fold clasp with

push-button release


SPORT TITANIUM GREEN DIAL

LIMITED EDITION

Reference Number: SSH071

Movement: Caliber 5X53; GPScontrolled

time and time-zone

adjustment; perpetual calendar; world

time with 39 time zones.

Case: 42.8mm titanium

Strap: Titanium bracelet


THE 1965 DIVER’S RE-CREATION

Reference Number: SLA037

Movement: Automatic Caliber 8L55;

hours, minutes, seconds; stop seconds;


Case: 44.8mm; Ever-Brilliant steel;


Strap: Silicone


100 IN TIME

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Tudor

Sometimes a watch brand just hits the spirit of the times

and launches a watch that is perfect for the moment.

As the world slowly emerged from its Covid-induced

lockdown, the House of Wilsdorf felt the time was right to

launch the latest watch from Tudor. Wilsdorf’s vision for

Tudor was a watch that delivered all the hallmark qualities of

Rolex, but at a more accessible price point. And that’s what

the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” offers in spades: a

super-high-quality dive watch at a relatively affordable

price point.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is more than just a modern dive

watch — it is a timepiece steeped in military history with a

long family line of service in navies all around the globe. In

fact, the number in its name refers to the year in which Tudor

launched their first “big crown” dive watch, the reference

7924: 1958. The reference 7924 was issued to divers in

both the French Navy and the US Navy, the former actually

becoming research and development partners with the brand.

It was this relationship that led to the development of one of

Tudor’s key signatures, the snowflake hands. The hands were

born out of the necessity for the divers to have a more legible

handset and began to appear on watches in 1969. The 1970s

saw the use of blue snowflake-hand Tudor dive watches such

as the references 7016 and 9401. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight

“Navy Blue” celebrates and combines elements from three

decades of the brand’s diving watches in one watch that is

ready to rock in the 21st century.

A few weeks later, Tudor unveiled a whole new line initially

intended for the Greater China market. The Tudor Royal

is inspired by the integrated-bracelet watches of the early

1970s, a time when Tudor had a number of watches in this

configuration, including the Chrono-Time and Ranger 2.

The house has also dusted down the Royal moniker, which it

first began using in the early 1950s to give Tudor Oysters a

regal air of nobility. The Royal collection comprises date and

date-and-day configurations in both steel and steel and gold

(S&G in Tudor parlance). The watches are also available in

four sizes —41mm, 38mm, 34mm and 28mm — with a range

of nine different dials including applied Roman numerals and

mother of pearl with diamond-set indices.

TUDOR ROYAL

Reference numbers: 28600/3, 28500/3, 28400/3, 28300/3

Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement caliber

2834 (41 mm), or caliber 2824 (38mm and 34 mm) or

caliber 2671 (28 mm)

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; date and day (41mm)

ordate(othersizes)

Case: 41mm, 38mm, 34mm or 28 mm; 316L steel case

Strap: Integrated bracelet in 316L steel, or 316L steel and

18K yellow gold with folding clasp and safety catch

Price: CHF2,200 to CHF3,750

TIMELINE

1926: Hans Wilsdorf establishes Tudor

1954: First Tudor dive watch is launched

1969: Snowflake hands are introduced

2010: The Heritage collection is

launched

2012: The Black Bay is launched

2015: Tudor launches its first in-house

movement

2018: The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is

launched

2020: The Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy

Blue” and Tudor Royal are launched

BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT “NAVY BLUE”

Reference number: 79030B

Movement: Self-winding manufacture caliber MT5402

Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds

Case: 39mm; 316L steel

Strap: Steel riveted bracelet; blue “soft touch” with

folding clasp or fabric strap

Price: USD3,700 on bracelet or USD3,375 on strap

102 IN TIME

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TAG Heuer

When it comes to watches that embody the power and the passion of

motorsports, one brand is right at the top of the list: TAG Heuer.

Founded by Edouard Heuer in 1860, and continuing under the Heuer

name until it was acquired by Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) in 1985, the brand

is most famous for its chronographs, which were born as functional tools in the

golden age of racing, but rapidly became style statements in their own right.

TAG Heuer’s prominence in the automotive space can be attributed to one

man: Jack Heuer. The fourth-generation Heuer took up leadership in 1958 and

rapidly cemented the brand as the go-to brand for racing. In 1962, he released

the Autavia, a utility-focused watch that took its name from a portmanteau of

automotive and aviation. A year later, Heuer released what would become its

flagship chronograph family, the Carrera, which took its name from a hazardous

American road race.

As the 1960s rolled on, Heuer didn’t take its foot off the gas, and in 1969

the brand — along with a consortium of other Swiss makers — announced an

automatic chronograph movement, which Heuer called the Caliber 11. Long

held to be one of the most impressive feats of watchmaking, the Caliber 11

quickly featured in the Carrera, Autavia, and of course, the Monaco. The last

watch stood out not just because of the distinctive square case shape, but also

for that fact that it was prominently seen on the wrist of the King of Cool himself,

Steve McQueen, in the epic 1971 racing film Le Mans. These three collections are

still key in TAG Heuer’s lineup, and last year, the Monaco celebrated its 50th

birthday — still looking as cool as ever.

As 1999 ushered in a new millennium, it also ushered in new ownership for

TAG Heuer, in the form of the LVMH group. This era also ushered in some of

TAG Heuer’s most exciting watchmaking developments, such as the cuttingedge

Monaco V4, the Mikrotimer and the Mikrogirder, as well as the equally

high-tech (though more accessibly priced) Connected Watch. This Swiss luxury

smartwatch continues to demonstrate TAG Heuer’s avant-garde spirit.

TIMELINE

1860: Heuer founded by Edouard Heuer

1887: Heuer patents on an ‘oscillating

pinion’, allowing for instant start/stop in

a chronograph mechanism

1911: Heuer designs ‘Time of Trip’

dashboard chronograph

1914: Heuer releases the first wrist

chronograph

1958: Jack Heuer becomes the fourth

generation to lead the company

1962: The Autavia chronograph is

released

1963: Heuer introduces the Carrera

chronograph

1969: Heuer, as part of a consortium,

introduces the Caliber 11, a pioneering

automatic chronograph, and the first

available globally

1969: Heuer introduces the Monaco; the

square chronograph goes on to become

an icon

1979: Heuer introduces dive watches

into the collection

1985: Techniques d’Avant Garde

acquires Heuer, and the brand becomes

TAG Heuer

1986: TheTAGHeuerFormula1is

released

1999: LVMH acquires TAG Heuer

2010: TAG Heuer releases the Caliber

1887

2015: TAG Heuer releases the

Connected Watch, the first Swiss luxury

smartwatch

2019: The Monaco turns 50

TAG HEUER CARRERA 160 YEARS

SILVER LIMITED EDITION

Movement: Caliber Heuer 02;

automatic; hours, minutes; chronograph

with 1/4 seconds and 30-minute

counters; eight-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 39mm stainless steel;

water-resistant to 100m; silver dial


Price: USD6450, limited to 1,860 pieces

TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 FRAGMENT

DESIGN





Case and dial: Brushed and polished

stainless steel; 44mm; water-resistant

to100m;blackdial

Band: Stainless-steel bracelet with

brushed and polished finishes


TAG HEUER CARRERA MONTREAL





Case and dial: 39mm stainless steel;

water-resistant to 100m; white dial



TAG HEUER MONACO GRAND PRIX DE

MONACO HISTORIQUE







to 100m; red dial



TAG HEUER CARRERA







to 100m; circular-brushed green dial

Band: Stainless-steel bracelet with

brushed and polished finishes

Price: USD5,750

TAG HEUER CONNECTED

Movement: Qualcomm Snapdragon

Wear 3100 processor; 430 mAh battery

Case and dial: Steel; 45mm; waterresistant

to 50m; fixed ceramic bezel;

1.39” OLED display

Band: Stainless-steel with folding pushbutton

clasp

Price: USD2,000

104 IN TIME

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Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin is the marine-inspired manufacture that creates watches

for those who love exploration. Founded in 1846 by Ulysse Nardin, the

house, with its powerful tradition in marine chronometry, has the merit

of having written some of the best chapters in the history of horology. A pioneer

in the innovative use of materials such as silicon, Ulysse Nardin is one of the few

maisons with the in-house experience and expertise needed to produce its own

high-precision components and movements.

With the enormous responsibility of continuing this tradition of marineinspired

chronometry, the company has continued to explore the field in a variety

of ways, always maintaining its banner of innovative technique. The Freak X is

one of its pieces that thrives bearing all these values.

Made of a combination of carbon fiber and red epoxy resin, each Freak X

Magma is unique, ultra-lightweight and shock resistant. With a black leather

strap stitched in red and equipped with a folding buckle, this piece evokes

obsidian volcanic rock and the color of lava. At the opposite end is the Freak X

Ice, which comes cool and assertive in a titanium case and with a white rubbercoated

strap. Both watches use the innovative UN-230 caliber, a fascinating

work of watchmaking expertise. This movement — a clever fusion of the UN-

118 and UN-280 movements, the latter one used by the Freak Vision — is, by

definition, a tourbillon where the continuously rotating escapement system is

also part of the time display.

And, true to his admiration for the seas and their mysterious latitudes, Ulysse

Nardin continues with his evolutions inspired by extreme navigation, with the

Diver X Nemo Point being a shining example. The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Nemo

Point is a robust and elegant sports timepiece. The UN-118 movement brings

the watch to life, with a blue “X” embossed on the dial, while the course of the

Vendée Globe nautical race and the coordinates of the notorious Nemo Point are

engraved on the back.

TIMELINE

1846: Ulysse Nardin starts his

company in Le Locle

1867: First precision certification

granted by the Neuchâtel

Observatory

1902: First marine chronometers

delivered to the United States Navy

1975: The Neuchâtel Observatory

reportsthat,between1846and

1975, Ulysse Nardin achieved 4,324

high-performance certificates for its

marine chronometers

1983: Rolf Schneider acquires the

company

1985: First Trilogy of Time watches

appear

1996: The Marine Chronometer

1846 and the Classic Perpetual

Ludwig are born

2001: Delivery of first Freak

2011: Ulysse Nardin acquires Donzé

Cadrans, the expert dials workshop

2012: First in-house automatic

caliber, the UN-118

DIVER X CAPE HORN

Ref: 1183-170LE/92-CAP

Movement: Automatic caliber UN-118;

hours, minutes, small seconds, power

reserve indicator, date; 60-hour power

reserve

Case: Titanium black DLC case with

titanium and carbon bezel; 44mm;

special engraving on the caseback;


Strap: Fabric strap with Velcro closing

Price: USD9,900

DIVER X ANTARTICA LIMITED EDITION

Ref: 1183-170LE/90-ANT


hours, minutes, small seconds, forward

and backward date corrector; 60-hour

power reserve

Case: Titanium with white rubberized

bezel; 44mm; water-resistant to 300m

Strap: Rubber and pin buckle strap

Price: USD8,900

LADY DIVER GREAT WHITE LIMITED

EDITION

Ref: 8163-182LE-3/11-GW


hours, minutes, seconds, 42-hour power

reserve

Case and dial: 39mm steel; gray dial with

diamond markers; water-resistant

to 300m

Strap: White rubber; limited edition of

300 pieces only

Price: On request

FREAK X MAGMA

Ref: 2302-270/MAGMA


hours, minutes; 60-minute revolving


Case: Carbon and resin with titanium

bezel; 43mm; water-resistant to 50m

Strap: Calf leather

Price: USD30,000

Boutique exclusive limited to 250

pieces only.

FREAK X ICE

Ref: 2302-270/ICE


hours, minutes; 60-minute revolving


Case: Titanium, white coated; 43mm;


Strap: Calf leather

Price: USD26,000

DIVER X NEMO POINT

Ref: 1183-170LE/93-NEMO


hours, minutes; small seconds; power

reserve; date; 60-hour power reserve

Case: Titanium with special engraving on

the caseback; 44mm; water-resistant

to 300m

Strap: Fabric

Price: USD8,900

106 IN TIME

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Urwerk

Vacheron Constantin

URWERK was founded in 1997 following the meeting of the two founders,

Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, two years prior in 1995. The

company’s main goal: to design and craft haute horlogerie timepieces

blending tradition with futuristic vision. The name “URWERK” has its origins

far from Switzerland, in the town of UR in Mesopotamia, the very first place

where the perception of time was moulded; “WERK” means to work, create,

evolve, shape, forge and to arouse emotions, in German.

Over the years, URWERK has made a name for itself by releasing innovative

and modern watches featuring its signature wandering-hour satellite

indication, which serve as their primary collection of watches, and with

inspiration taken from the world of science fiction. This formula has proven

successful and has resulted in unique timepieces that can’t help but draw

attention when strapped on the wrist, albeit being creative variations of the

same theme.

The second category of watches created by the brand sit in the Chronometry

collection where you’ll find its EMC, or Electro Mechanical Control, watches

as well as the incredible Breguet-era-inspired AMC watch, short for Atomic

Master Clock, unveiled at Baselworld 2018. Last but not least are the timepieces

coming out of the Special Projects collection, where URWERK gets to

experiment with new designs and collaborate with other watchmakers.

TIMELINE

1995: Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei

meetfortheveryfirsttime

1997: URWERK is founded

2003: Launch of the UR-103

2005: Partnership with Harry Winston to

create the Opus V

2007: URWERK develops and patents the

satellite complication

2013: The EMC is the first mechanical

watch whose precision can be measured

by its wearer

2017: URWERK marks its 20th

anniversary with the launch of its firstever

reversible watch, the UR-T8

2018: The UR-111C is a new

interpretation of a linear time display

2019: Launch of the UR-100 with

astronomical indications

Not many manufactures can, and will, lay claim to being

the oldest manufacture in existence with 264 unbroken

years, but Vacheron Constantin does so with both pride

and humility. The company is old but not outdated, and it does

not let its incredible milestones get in the way of modern-day

improvements. The debut of the iconic 222, for example, marked

a departure from the brand’s established dress-watch aesthetics,

but it put Vacheron Constantin on the map for luxury sports

watches, and became the blueprint for the Overseas collection,

the brand’s bestseller. The company also knew exactly how to tug

at our heartstrings with the launch of the Historiques line, which

brought us contemporary reinterpretations of iconic models

from the maison’s past, such as the Cornes de Vache 1955 and the

American 1921. Today, the brand continues to excel in the finest

horological traditions — enamelling, engraving, engine-turning

— in its Les Métiers d’Art, and never fails to wow us year after year

with its prowess in complicated timepieces.

TIMELINE

1755: Jean-Marc Vacheron signs his first apprentice, Esaïe

Jean François Hetier, establishing the groundwork for

Vacheron Constantin

1819: Businessman François Constantin comes on board

1880: The Maltese cross is registered as the brand’s logo

1946: The most complicated pocket watch of the century,

“The Farouk” is completed

1955: Showsitsprowessincreatingelegantwatcheslikethe

popular Cornes de Vache 1955 Chronograph

1977: The debut of the iconic 222

2004: The Patrimony is relaunched, inspired by models from

the 1950s

2012: The Les Collectionneurs loyalty program debuts

2015: The most complicated pocket watch, ref. 57260, is

presented to a private client

2018: The Fiftysix collection is launched

UR-111C TWO-TONE

Movement: Self-winding caliber UR-111C; Jump hours, linear

retrograde minutes, precise digital minutes, digital seconds;


Case: 46mm x 42mm; stainless steel with PVD coating in

some areas; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Black fabric


UR-100 IN YELLOW GOLD

Movement: Self-winding caliber UR12.01; hours, minutes;

wandering hours with indication of distance of the Earth’s

rotation at the equator, and of the Earth’s passage along its

solar orbit; 48-hour power reserve

Case: 49.7mm x 41mm; 18K yellow gold; water resistant to

30m



OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR

ULTRA-THIN SKELETON

Ref: 4300V/120R-B547

Movement: Self-winding caliber 1120

QPSQ/1; hours, minutes; perpetual

calendar; moon phase; 48-month

counter with leap year indication; 40-

hour power reserve

Case and dial: 41.5mm; 18K pink gold;


Strap: 18K pink-gold bracelet; blue

Mississippiensis alligator leather; blue

rubber

Price: USD115,000

TRADITIONNELLE TOURBILLON

REF: 6035T/000R-B634

Movement: Self-winding caliber 2160/1;

hours and minutes; small seconds on

tourbillon carriage; tourbillon; 80-hour

power reserve

Case and dial: 39mm; 18K pink gold set

with diamonds; 39mm; mother-of-pearl

dial; water-resistant to 30m

Strap: Grey satin; additional grey

alligator leather strap

Price: USD142,000

FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR

REF: 4000E/000R-B065

Movement: Self-winding caliber 2460

QCL/1; hours, minutes, seconds; day;

date; stop seconds; month; moon

phase; 40-hour power reserve

Case and dial: 40mm; 18K pink gold;

sepia brown-toned dial; water resistant

to 30m

Strap: Brown calfskin with pink-gold pin

buckle

Price: USD33,700

108 IN TIME

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Van Cleef & Arpels

Zenith

The wedding of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef was the

starting point of the beautiful story of Van Cleef & Arpels,

and that’s perhaps the reason why the brand has captured

our imaginations for more than a century. Inspired by couture,

nature and fantasy, Van Cleef & Arpels has romanced us with its

motifs of fairies, ballerinas and florals, and stunned us with its

artistry with pieces such as the Zip necklace and its MysterySet

creations.

Van Cleef & Arpels brings the same sensitivity and emotion

to its timepieces. The Poetic Complications collection brings

together its watchmaking prowess and jewellery expertise to

transform dials into enchanting spectacles that told the story of

the stars, the story of the four seasons, the story of the fairies,

and even the story of two lovers who meet for a fleeting kiss on a

bridge at midnight — a motif that is explored again in this year’s

Midnight Pont des Amoureux.

TIMELINE

1895: The wedding of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef

1906: Maison Van Cleef & Arpels is established on 22 Place

Vendôme

1933: Patents the MysterySet technique, where stones are

setinawaywheretheprongsareinvisible

1935: The Cadena watch is born

1939: Claude Arpels sets up shop in New York

1940: The ballerina and fairy motifs are born

1950: The Zip necklace, first imagined in 1938, is finally

created

1968: The Alhambra necklace is created

1979: Creation of the first Pierre Arpels skeleton watch

2010: The Pont des Amoureux timepiece receives the Grand

Prix de l’Horlogerie

2012: L’École Van Cleef & Arpels opens

Georges Favre-Jacot, the man considered to be the father

of Zenith watches, established the brand in 1865, which

makes Zenith one of the older watchmaking names

around. Favre-Jacot’s groundbreaking idea was that he wanted

to house all of the watchmaking processes under one roof, rather

than the system of relying on multiple vendors and producers,

as was the norm in that time. This enabled the manufacture to

produce timepieces that it was proud to stand behind, from the

smallest component to the complete timepiece.

Of course, the most significant mark that Zenith has made in

the history books of horology remains the advent of the integrated

self-winding chronograph with the introduction of the El

Primero, in 1969. At 6.5mm in height and 29mm in diameter,

with a 50-hour power reserve, the movement boasted a 5Hz

frequency, which meant that the El Primero was able to measure

time accurately to 1/10th of a second.

But perhaps more than a phenomenal watchmaking

advancement, the story that needs to be told is that of the people

who have made sure that Zenith has continued to produce fine

timepieces, past the threat of the Quartz Crisis and in the 21st

century. Namely, the story of one Charles Vermot.

In 1975, an American brand that owned the Zenith watch

company mandated that the watchmaker should focus on making

quartz watches only. To the people at the manufacture who had

given their heart and soul to their labor, this was horrible news.

Among them was Charles Vermot, a specialist in chronograph

movement construction who had followed the development of El

Primero ever since the first sketches and spent his entire career

within the manufacture. He was convinced that mechanical

watchmaking would return before long and asked the management

at the time not to do away with the production equipment. His

request was, however, met with a firm no.

He then took it upon himself to stow away the most

essential equipment, including the presses (150 of them,

weighing more than a ton), the technical plans, the cams and

the cutting tools. Not only that, he even carefully listed each

component and each tool in a ring-binder file that he kept in a

forgotten attic of the manufacture.

Fast forward to 1978, Zenith was now under new

management again, who decided that Zenith should reclaim

its craft. Thanks to Charles Vermot’s quick thinking back in

1975, Zenith was able to pick up on its mechanical watchmaking

prowess without skipping a beat.

As much as Zenith continues to push watchmaking

technologies, with watches such as the Defy Lab and the Defy

El Primero 21 (with a chronograph function that has its own

dedicated escapement with an outrageous frequency rating of

50Hz, therefore allowing it to measure time accurately to 1/100th

of a second), Charles Vermot’s foresight is now allowing Zenith

to meaningfully re-issue some of its greatest watch designs in a

way that brilliantly progresses the stories of the manufacture’s

watchmaking and its people.

LADY ARPELS MIDNIGHT PONT DES

AMOUREUX


Valfleurier Q020; retrograde hours and

minutes; 36-hour power reserve

Case and Dial: 42mm; 18K white or rose

gold with diamond-set bezel; grisaille

enamel dial; white-gold sculpted bridge

Strap: Black alligator strap with gold

folding clasp, or matching gem-set gold

bracelet

Price: From USD123,000

LADY ARPELS SOLEIL FÉERIQUE


Valfleurier 430P; hours and minutes; 40-

hour power reserve


with diamonds; dial set with diamonds,

yellow sapphires, lapis lazuli, onyx, white

mother-of-pearl, plique-à-hour enamel

and enamel beads; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Interchangeable shiny glitter-blue

alligator with gold pin buckle set with

diamonds

Price: Available on request; limited to

three pieces

LADY ARPELS LUNE FÉERIQUE


Valfleurier 430P; hours and minutes; 40-

hour power reserve


with diamonds; dial set with diamonds,

sapphires, turquoise, blue and black

aventurine, white mother-of-pearl,

plique-à-jour enamel, enamel beads with

miniature painting; water resistant to 30m

Strap: Interchangeable shiny glitter-blue

alligator with gold pin buckle set with

diamonds

Price: Available on request; limited to

three pieces

ZENITH DEFY 21 ULTRAVIOLET

Movement: Self-winding El Primero

9004; hours, minute, seconds; 1/100th

of a second chrono; 5 Hz escapement

for time function; 50Hz escapement for

chrono function; 50-hour power reserve

Case: 44mm microblasted titanium;


Strap: Violet fabric effect; microblasted

titanium clasp

Price: CHF13,400

ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL

MANUFACTURE EDITION

Movement: Self-winding El Primero 400;

hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph

with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizer;


Case: 38mm stainless steel; water

resistant to 50m

Strap: Blue alligator with protective

rubber lining; stainless steel pin buckle

Price: CHF8,900

ZENITH CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL

“SHADOW”

Movement: Self-winding El Primero

4061, 5 Hz, 50 hours power reserve

Case: Original 1969 case in microblasted

titanium, 37mm

Strap: Black “Cordura effect” strap and

white stitching; microblasted titanium pin

buckle

Price: CHF8,400

110 IN TIME

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Zodiac

As part of the Fossil Group,

Zodiac stands out with the

50s, 60s, and 70s watches they

faithfully bring back from the archives

and update. Popular styles like the

Astrographic, Super Sea Wolf, and

Sea Dragons continually sell out, as

limited production keeps the collection

fresh and the desirability factor up.

Today, Zodiac creates exclusive

watches that maintain their historic

significance to vintage models, while

incorporating contemporary updates,

proprietary movements, and improving

functionality.

SUPER SEA WOLF 68 SATURATION

AUTOMATIC

Reference Number: ZO9509

Movement: Caliber STP 3-13 automatic


date

Case: 45mm; stainless steel; water

resistant to 1,000m

Strap: Three-link stainless-steel bracelet

Price: USD1,595

SUPER SEA WOLF 53 COMPRESSION

AUTOMATIC STAINLESS STEEL




date


resistant to 200m

Strap: Five-link stainless-steel bracelet

Price: USD1,395

LIMITED EDITION SUPER SEA WOLF

GMT AUTOMATIC




date


resistant to 200m

Strap: Three-link stainless-steel

bracelet

Price: USD1,695

SUPER SEA WOLF 53 COMPRESSION

AUTOMATIC BLACK RUBBER




date


resistant to 200m

Strap: Black rubber

Price: USD1,095

SUPER SEA WOLF AUTOMATIC BLUE

RUBBER




date


resistant to 200m

Strap: Matte-blue rubber

Price: USD1,095

112 IN TIME

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