Rock Climbing Guide for Bosnia and Herzegovina

1. INTRODUCTION
1. INTRODUCTION
Climbing in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
To most climbers from Western Europe, the country is still a big question mark,
unlike the neighbouring Croatia which has been a very popular tourist destination
for climbers and seaside family holidays for decades. The usual questions go
something like this: Ah, Bosnia, isn’t it this small country next to Romania? Didn’t
they have a war, is it safe to go there now? Great barbecuers! Yeah, I know someone
from Bosnia from school/work - nice guy/girl!” The same general cluelessness
applies to Rock Climbing as a sport in Bosnia and Herzegovina itself, where
football, basketball and karate firmly dominate the sportive spectrum. The typical
range of associations: “Sport climbing, what is that? Why would you climb on
rocks? Are you crazy, do you have a death wish? How high have you climbed? So
you are an alpinist? I didn’t know this sport exists and we have it in our country.”
10

1. INTRODUCTION
To all the curious climber souls, wandering
minds and the “I’ve seen it all’s”: Good news is,
there still are a few spots on the map that are off
the beaten path. Until now Bosnia and Herzegovina
is one of the last secret, underrated climbing
destination in Europe - a country rich with
diverse mountain landscapes, rocky canyons,
hilly forests, quiet villages, welcoming locals,
great food and plenty of high-quality limestone
crags in wildly romantic locations!
Until now, Bosnia Herzegovina was one of the
last countries in Europe who didn't have a
modern, up to date climbing guidebook. Since
Edin Durmo’s first sport climbing guidebook
"Bosna i Hercegovina - Penjački Vodič" from
2000, a lot has happened! From about 2010 and
onwards a small, climbing-hungry community
perfected the art of building a climbing culture
and infrastructure almost from scratch under
precarious post-war circumstances and difficult
access to climbing and bolting gear. They
constructed small self-organized gyms all over
the country and soon started to grow out of the
few older crags to explore and make their first
bolting steps in the newly discovered places.
Annual climbing events of different formats,
such as regional climbing festivals, competition
circuits and memorial get-togethers increased
the exchange of climbers from BiH, attracted
a growing number of international visitors
and produced a growing media output. From
2012/2013 there was a real climbing boom. More
than 60% of the existing routes of BiH were
bolted only in these recent years!
It’s astonishing that such a small country has
such diverse, highly interesting and naturally
gifted regions that all share a strong regional
identification and a distinctive feel! Especially
over the last five years, we visited all corners of
the country, bolted in a lot of different areas,
made many new friends and were astonished
when we realized more and more how many
crags have been established already. Some of
them are smaller local training crags, other bigger
ones with over 100 routes that are as good,
diverse and picturesque any other popular
crag in Europe, just without the crowds! Soon
we agreed that it’s about time to take the next
step and produce this guidebook - as a common
document of this new climbing community, to
honour all the local climbers and volunteers
who built the climbing infrastructure and com-
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USING THIS BOOK
1.1 USING THIS BOOK
This climbing guidebook has four main chapters.
Chapter one of is a country info section for those
wishing to learn more about the history, geography
and nature of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The
Second chapter contains all necessary travel
resources and provides you practical information
on transport, accommodation, food and
drinks, money matters and budgeting, as well as
health and safety issues. Chapter three presents
the history of sports climbing of BiH, climbing
culture such as festivals, events, gyms, artificial
climbing structures and a few notes we wish you
consider before you head out. The actual core
of this book, the 34 climbing areas in 4 regions
are presented in chapter four. In the beginning
of each region you find the regional map with an
overview of all climbing areas and additional information
and photos to give you a better idea.
Ovaj vodič se sastoji od četiri poglavlja. U
prvom poglavlju ove knjige možete da saznate
nešto više o istoriji, geografiji i prirodi Bosne
i Hercegovine. Drugo poglavlje vam donosi
praktične informacije o prevozu, smještaju,
hrani i piću, novcu i budžetu, kao i zdravlju i
sigurnosti. Treće poglavlje se bavi istorijom
sportskog penjanja, penjačkim festivalima,
događajima, salama, vještačkim stijenama i
uputama koje bismo željeli da pročitate prije
samog penjanja. Glavni dio ovog vodiča koji čine
34 penjališta raspoređena u četiri regije prezentovan
je u četvrtom poglavlju. Na početku svake
regije nalazi se regionalna mapa sa obilježenim
penjalištima, kao i dodatne informacije sa
slikama regije.
EVERY CLIMBING AREA HAS THE
FOLLOWING STRUCTURE:
SVA PENJALIŠTA IMAJU SLJEDEĆU
STRUKTURU:
1. Climbing area overview/ Pregled penjališta
1.1 Zečiji kamen Krajina Region
500m 10’ 40m
0
2
11
1
0 ∑ 14
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
GPS Parking: 44.998448, 16.880982 | GPS Crag: 45.001399, 16.883033
In this section you find basic information about
the climbing area, such as:
• Main crag orientation, elevation of crag,
approach time, maximum route length,
suitability for rain, family friendly, quality of
protection and steepness of crag.
• Chart overview of routes’ grades and total
number of routes.
U ovom dijelu možete saznati osnovne informacije
o penjalištu, kao što su:
• Orjentacija stijene, nadmorska visina
penjališta, vrijeme potrebno za pristup, maksimalna
visina penjališta, pogodnost za penjanje
po kiši, pogodnost za penjanje sa porodicom,
koliko su kvalitetno obezbjeđeni smjerovi,
nagib stijene.
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USING THIS BOOK
• In addition, there is also information about the
best season to climb. It should be noted that
climbing is also possible at the beginning and
the end of the best season, depending on the
weather conditions and the time of the day.
• As additional information, for each climbing
area there are GPS coordinates of the parking
lot, and if necessary, the climbing area itself or
certain sectors.
• Pregled smjerova po težinama i ukupan broj
smjerova.
• Pored toga tu su i informacije o najboljoj sezoni
za penjanje. Ovdje treba napomenuti da je
penjanje takođe moguće i na prelazu početku
i kraju najbolje sezone, zavisno od vremenskih
uslova i doba dana.
• Kao dodatna informacija, za svako penjalište
su date GPS koordinate parkinga, a po potrebi i
samog penjališta, odnosno pojedinih sektora.
2. Climbing area description/Opis penjališta
This text highlights the specifics of each crag
with a bit of background information on the
location, its main developers and what to expect
in terms of a rock, climbing style, ambience and
favorable weather conditions.
Ovaj tekst naglašava specifičnost svakog
penjališta sa informacijama o samoj lokaciji,
opremačima smjerova, vrsti stijene, stilu penjanja,
ambijentu i vremenskim uslovima.
3. Approach/Pristup
Here is a text description of the approach to the
climbing areas that complements the climbing
map.
Ovdje je dat tekstualni opis pristupa penjalištu
koji je dopuna mapi penjališta.
4. Climbing area map/Mapa penjališta
2
4
BANJA LUKA
9 KM 3 KM
ACCOMODATION/
SMJEŠTAJ
1 Camp/Kamp Vrbas
2 Hostel Topić
POINTS OF INTEREST/
TAČKE OD INTERESA
Vrbas river/Rijeka Vrbas
3 Zvečaj ruin and viewpoint/Ruina Zvečaj i
vidikovac
4 Rafting club/klub Kanjon
LOCAL CLIMBING CLUB/
LOKALNI PENJAČKI KLUB
Climbing club/Penjački klub Extreme:
www.extremebl.com
3
1
1 KM
JAJCE
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USING THIS BOOK
The climbing area map always shows the approach
to the crag from the parking lot, including
main landmarks that are relevant for orientation.
In addition, the map mostly contains
information about nearby accommodation and
points of interest, which are marked on the map
by yellow circles with numbers inside. Each mark
on the map that is outside of the territory shown
on the map has an arrow added to it, indicating
the direction and the number of kilometers from
the mark (not from the crag or parking lot) to the
accommodation or to the point of interest. The
map is complemented by an info box that explains
what the markings are representing. The
legend also contains information about the local
climbing club or crag developer to be contacted
if you are interested in bolting new routes or if
you need some additional information.
Na mapi penjališta je predstavljen pristup
penjalištu od parkinga sa označenim glavnim orjentirima.
Pored toga mapa sadrži i informacije o
obližnjem smještaju i tačkama od interesa, koje
su na mapi označene žutim krugovima sa brojem
unutra. Uz svaku oznaku koja se ne nalazi na teritoriji
pokrivenoj mapom dodana je strelica koja
označava pravac i broj kilometara od oznake (ne
od penjališta ili parkinga) do smještaja odnosno
do tačke od interesa. Mapa je upotpunjena
informativnim dijelom koji pojašnjava šta
koja oznaka predstavlja. Tu se nalaze i informacije
o lokalnom penjačkom klubu ili glavnom
opremaču kojeg možete da kontaktirate ukoliko
ste zainteresovani da opremate smjerove ili ukoliko
vam trebaju neke dodatne informacije.
5. Topo and table of routes/Skica i tabela
smjerova
E Čelinka
6b+
7a
6b+
7a?
4
1
2 3 5
6b+ 6c?
6
# Route Grade Meters
1 Ovlaživač šajbe 7a? 30
2 Duo statt solo 6b+ 30
3 Sweaty or wet 7a 30
4 The Rainman 6b+ 30
5 Liječeni rupofiličar 6b+ 35
6 Le bateau ivre 6c? 35
On most of the topos routes’ grades are marked.
The topo is followed by a table of routes in which
each route has the following information: route
name, grade and length. If there is a question
mark next to the grade (eg 7a?), this means that
the route is not yet redpointed, but that is the
estimated grade. It's not common to have closed
project routes in Bosnia. The extensions of the
existing routes are indicated by the letter beside
Na većini skica označene su težine smjerova.
Skicu prati tabela smjerova u kojoj o svakom
smjeru postoje sljedeći podaci: ime smjera
(Route), težina (Grade) i dužina (Meters). Ukoliko
pored težine smjer stoji upitnik (npr. 7a?), to
znači da smjer nije još uvijek redpoint-ovan ali
da je to predpostavljena ocjena. U BiH nema
zatvorenih projekata. Ekstenzije postojećih
smjerova su označene sa slovom pored broja,
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USING THIS BOOK
the number, so if for example the route number
19 has two extensions, they will be marked with
19a and 19b. If the route is a multipitch route, in
addition to the basic data, the table of routes will
also contain information on the individual lengths
and grades of each pitch, as well as information
about the bolters and the year when the route
was created. Boulders’ grades are marked with a
capital letter (eg 7A), if the boulder requires a sit
start, then this is marked with "SS" next to the
boulder name.
pa tako ukoliko na primjer smjer broj 19 ima
dvije ekstenzije one će biti označene sa 19a i
19b. Ako je smjer višedužinac pored osnovnih
podataka tabela smjerova će još sadržati i
informacije o pojedinačnim dužinama i težinama
svake dužine, te informacije o opremaču/ima
i godini kada je smjer nastao. Ocjene boldera
su označene velikim slovima (7A). Ukoilko ulaz
u bolder zahtjeva sjedeći start onda se pored
naziva smjera nalazi "SS".
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A SHORT HISTORY OF BIH
Jajce castle, finally fell in 1528.
Bosnia and Herzegovina was heavily assimilated
into the Ottoman Empire during the 400
years of Turkish rule. The extremely profound
impact of the empires culture can be seen in all
aspects of cultural life such as local customs,
the widespread adoption of turkish words in the
local language, food, music, architecture, etc.
Bosnia was one of the most profitable provinces,
that in line with the general Ottoman policy,
was primarily focussed on extracting taxes,
men and janissaries. Islamisation largely took
place during the initial 150 years of Turkish rule.
Orthodox and Catholic Christians and Jews continued
to practice their religions although under
certain constraints. They faced higher taxation,
discrimination and harsh oppression, stories of
which are still told today. Sparked by the newly
born idea of nationhood, Bosnian Serb peasants
and clergy led a series of guerilla rebellions that
culminated in the final Herzegovina uprising
against the Ottoman administration in 1875.
Thus, resulting in the Great Eastern Crisis and a
series of atrocities against the local population
by the Ottoman army that eventually spiralled
into the Russian-Turkish war.
Bosnian state and led to a widespread catholicization
of BiH. The succeeding king Tvrtko,
expanded his kingdom considerably through
northern Croatia, Dalmatia and parts of Serbia
and Montenegro. After his death a period of
weak rule started, that coincided with growing
attacks of the Ottoman empire.
OTTOMAN RULE (1462-1878)
The first Turkish raids came in 1383 and started
a century and a half long, continuous takeover
by the Ottoman empire. There are many different
Game of thrones worthy tales of how the
empire took over BiH 600 years ago, some like to
paint it as a time of fierce resistance others as a
a time of betrayal and convenient alliances that
split the population and aristocracy. The rule
of the Bosnian kingdom ended in 1463 when
Stjepan Tomasević was beheaded and Bosnia
became a Turkish province with Sarajevo as its
capital. The last bastion of Bosnia's kingdom,
BIH UNDER AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN RULE
(1878-1914)
In 1878 Russia inflicted a crushing defeat on
Turkey in a war over Bulgaria and at the subsequent
Congress of Berlin it was determined
that Austro-Hungary would occupy Bosnia and
Herzegovina despite the population’s wish for
autonomy. The Austro-Hungarians pushed
Bosnia and Herzegovina into the modern age
with industrialisation, the development of coal
mining and the building of railways, infrastructure,
bureaucratic reforms and new cultural
institutions. This influence changed the mostly
agrarian nation dramatically although not to the
extent of the Ottoman empire. This influence is
still very noticeable when strolling through the
old towns of many Bosnian cities, when eating
pastries or visiting a mechanic and can be found
in a huge number of adaptations of Austrian
words in most technical, modern age vocabulary
(Šrafciger, Vinklo, Šajba, Cigla, Brushalter,
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A SHORT HISTORY OF BIH
Escajg, Kuglof, Palacinka,...).
But political unrest was on the rise with the rise
of national states all over Europe from the mid-
19th century, Bosnia’s Catholic and Orthodox
population started to identify themselves with
neighbouring Croatia or Serbia respectively.
At the same time, resentment against foreign
occupation intensified and young people across
the sectarian divide started cooperating with
each other and working against the Austro-Hungarians,
thus giving birth to the idea of a unified
‘Yugoslavia’, the land of the southern Slavs.
FIRST WORLD WAR AND THE KINGDOM
OF YUGOSLAVIA (1914-1941)
Resentment against occupation intensified
in 1908 when Austria annexed Bosnia and Herzegovina
against the wish of the population. The
assassination of the Habsburg heir Archduke
Franz Ferdinand by a Bosnian Serb and militant
Yugoslavist Gavrilo Princip, in Sarajevo in June
1914 was the spark that led Austria, to declare
war on Serbia. Russia and France supported
Serbia, and Germany backed Austria, and
soon the world was at war. Following WWI the
Austro-Hungarian rule collapsed and in 1918
Bosnia and Herzegovina was absorbed into the
Serbia dominated Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats
and Slovenes. In 1929 the country was renamed
Kingdom of Yugoslavia, a battle between
Zagreb and Belgrade ensued under the theme
of the Croatian (and Bosnian muslims) wish for
autonomy and Serbian aspiration for Centralist
government.
BOSNIA AND THE SECOND WORLD WAR
(1941-1945)
These were extremely violent times that had a
huge impact on fostering the growing divisions
which became engraved in the collective memory
and had a profound impact on the events at
the end of the 20. century. In 1941, Yugoslavia
was invaded in a Blitzkrieg style and Belgrade
massively bombed, only 11 days later the Yugoslav
army capitulated to Nazi Germany. Bosnia
and Herzegovina was annexed by the newly
created fascist “Independent State of Croatia, a
puppet state to Nazi Germany, which was aided
by Mussolini under the Croatian fascist Ustaše
movement. They mimicked the Nazis in systematically
persecuting and murdering Croatia’s and
Bosnia’s Serbs, Jews, Roma and Communists to
an unimaginable extent. The local population
responded with two resistance movements: the
almost exclusively Serbian Četniks led by the
royalist Draža Mihajlovič and the communist
‘Partisans’, made up by a big majority of Serbs
and one third Croatians and Muslims, headed
by Josip Broz Tito, the later famous president of
second Yugoslavia. The two groups managed to
put up an extremely effective guerilla warfare
resistance to the Germans and Ustaše forces,
though Četniks forces soon turned the fight on
communist Partisans who sought out a different
agenda: A social revolution and the creation of
a post-war communist Yugoslavia. The Bosnian
Muslims were stuck in the middle between these
fights and without much political organization
beyond the clergy nor protection, they took
different strategies. Some joined the Partisans,
others collaborated with the Germans and
Ustaše in the Waffen-SS “Handjar division”, a
considerable number also fell victim to the Nazis
or the Četniks policy, while others organized
their own protection. In the end, a few epic battles
and long guerilla warfare later, fate turned
for Tito's Partisan movement and with the
retreat of German forces in 1944 and the Soviet
occupation, their victory was certain.
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A SHORT HISTORY OF BIH
turcizmi u lokalnom jeziku, hrana, muzika,
arhitektura itd. Bosna je bila jedna od najprofitabilnijih
pokrajina, pa je u skladu sa opštom
osmanlijskom politikom, sve bilo usredsređeno
na izdvajanje poreza, uzimanje mladih
bosanskih momaka (janjičara). Islamizacija
se uglavnom odvijala tokom prvih 150 godina
turske vladavine. Pravoslavni i katolički hrišćani
i Jevreji nastavili su da praktikuju svoje religije,
iako su imali određena ograničenja, veći porez,
a da ne pričamo o suočavanju sa represijom, diskriminacijom
i strogim postupanjem od strane
osmanlijskih vojnika (priče o represiji koje se i
danas prepričavaju). Pokrenuti novonastalom
idejom o nacionalnosti, seosko stanovništvo
(bosanski Srbi) i sveštenici vodili su niz gerilskih
pobuna koje su kulminirale u konačnoj pobuni
Hercegovine protiv osmanlijske administracije
1875. godine, što je rezultiralo velikom istočnom
krizom i serijom zvejrstava protiv lokalnog
stanovništva, koja su na kraju prerasla ruskoturski
rat.
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA POD AUSTRO-
UGARSKOM OKUPACIJOM (1878-1914)
OSMANLIJSKA OSVAJANJA (1462-
1878)
Prvi turski napadi dogodili su se 1383. godine,
od tada pa narednih vijek i po nastavljena je
okupacija od strane Osmanlijskog carstva. Postoji
veliki broj različitih Game of thrones priča o
tome kako su Turci preuzeli BiH prije 600 godina,
neki vole da to oslikaju kao vrijeme žestokog
otpora drugima kao vrijeme izdaje i pogodnih
saveza koji su podelili stanovništvo i tadašnju
vlastelu. Bosansko kraljevstvo je palo 1463.
godine, kada je Stjepana Tomaševića obezglavlj.
Te godine Bosna je postala turska pokrajina a
Sarajevo njen glavni grad. Poslednji bastion
bosanskog kraljevstva, dvorac Jajce, konačno
je pao 1528.
Bosna i Hercegovina se u velikoj mjeri asimilovala
sa Osmanlijskim carstvom tokom 400 godina
turske vladavine. Izuzetno duboki uticaj kulture
imperija se može videti u svim aspektima kulturnog
života, kao što su lokalni običaji, usvojeni
Rusija je 1878. godine porazila Tursku u ratu sa
Bugarskom, a na narednom Kongresu u Berlinu
utvrđeno je da će Austrougarska okupirati
Bosnu i Hercegovinu uprkos želji stanovništva
za autonomijom. Austrougari su gurnuli Bosnu i
Hercegovinu u moderno doba sa industrijalizacijom,
razvojem rudarstva i izgradnjom željeznica,
infrastrukture, birokratskih reformi i novih
kulturnih institucija. Ovakav razvoj zemlje je
veoma uticao na ruralno stanovništvo, ali ne na
način kao što je to bilo pod turskom vladavinom.
Uticaj Austro-ugarske je i dalje je veoma
primjetan, to se najbolji vidi u starim dijelovima
gradova Bosne i Hercegovine. Dok jedete
peciva ili prilikom posjete mehaničara čućete
veliki broj germanizama kao što su: Šrafciger,
Vinklo, Šajba, Cigla, Brushalter, Escajg, Kuglof,
Palačinka itd.
Politički nemiri su u porastu sa rastom nacionalnih
država širom Evrope od sredine XIX vijeka,
tako su s jedne strane bosanski katolicii a s
36

A SHORT HISTORY OF BIH
druge pravoslavno stanovništvo počeli da se
identifikuje sa susjednom Hrvatskom ili Srbijom.
Istovremeno, mladi ljudi iskazuju nezadovljstvo
prema stranoj okupaciji, iako pripadnici
razlišitih etničkih grupa, počeli su da sarađuju
jedni sa drugima i rade protiv austrougarske,
tako se rodlia ideja jedinstvene Jugoslavije,
zemlje južnih Slovena.
PRVI SVJETSKI RAT I KRALJEVINA
JUGOSLAVIJA (1914-1941)
Ogorčenje na okupaciju je poraslo 1908. godine
kada je Austrija aneksirala Bosnu i Hercegovinu
protiv želje stanovništva. Ubistvo Habsburškog
prestolonasljednika nadvojvode Franca Ferdinanda
od strane bosanskog Srbina i militantnog
jugoslaviste Gavrila Principa u Sarajevu u
junu 1914. bio je povod da Austrija objavi rat
Srbiji. Rusija i Francuska su podržavale Srbiju, a
Njemačka je podržala Austriju, i uskoro je cijeli
svijet bio u ratu. Nakon Prvog svjetskog rata
austrougarska vlast se srušila, a 1918. godine
Bosna i Hercegovina je postala dio Kraljevine
Srba, Hrvata i Slovenaca u kojoj je dominirala
Srbija. Godine 1929. zemlja je preimenovana
u Kraljevinu Jugoslaviju, borba za glavni grad
između Zagreba i Beograda potekla je pod
temom hrvatskih (i bosanskih muslimana)
želje za autonomijom i aspiracijom Srbije za
centralističku vladu.
BOSNA I DRUGI SVJETSKI RAT
(1941-1945)
To su bila izuzetno nasilna vremena koja su
imala ogroman uticaj na nacionalne podjele
koje su se urezale u kolektivno sjećanje i imale
su dubok uticaj na događaje krajem XX vijeka.
Godine 1941. Jugoslavija je napadnuta u blickrijevskom
stilu, a Beograd je bombardovan, a 11
dana kasnije jugoslovenska vojska je kapitulirala
i predala se nacističkoj Njemačkoj. Bosna
i Hercegovina je aneksirana od strane novoosnovane
fašističke Nezavisna država Hrvatske,
država marioneta u nacističkoj Njemačkoj, koju
je pomogao Musolini pod hrvatskim ustaškim
pokretom. Oni su imali naciste da sistematski
proganjaju i ubijaju hrvatske i bosanske Srbe,
Jevreje, Rome i komuniste do nezamislivih
načina ubijanja. Lokalno stanovništvo je odgovorilo
sa dva pokreta otpora: skoro isključivo
srpske četnike pod vođstvom vojvode Draže
Mihajlovića i komunističkih partizana, koje
su činili uglavnom Srbi, dok je jedna trećina
bila sačinjena od Hrvata i Muslimana, na čelu
sa Josipom Brozom Titom, kasnije poznati
predsjednik druge Jugoslavije. Dvije grupe su
uspjele da pruže izuzetno efikasan gerilski ratni
otpor njemačkim i ustaškim snagama, mada su
četničke snage ubrzo zaratile i sa komunističkim
partizanima koji su tražili drugačiji program:
društvenu revoluciju i stvaranje poslijeratne
komunističke Jugoslavije.
Bošnjački Muslimani su bili zaglavljeni u sredini
između ovih borbi i bez puno političke organizacije
i bez ikakve starategije i vjerske zaštite.
Neki su se pridružili partizanima, drugi su rado
sarađivali sa Nijemcima i ustašama u Waffen-
SS (Handžar diviziji), a znatan broj je postao
žrtva njihove ili četnike politike, dok su drugi
organizovali vlastitu zaštitu. Na kraju, nekoliko
37

TRAVEL INFORMATION
2. TRAVEL INFORMATION
52

TRAVEL INFORMATION
COUNTRY FACTS
Country name
Location
Land area
Language
Population
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Southeastern Europe; borders with Croatia (932 km), Serbia
(312 km) and Montenegro (215 km)
51,129 km²
Bosnian, Croatian, Serbian - highly similar variations of a
polycentric south-Slavic language
Approximately 3.5 million
Religion Muslim (50.70%), Orthodox (30.75%), Catholic (15.19%),
Atheists (0.79%), Agnostic (0.31%), Others (2.26%)
Capital Sarajevo (estimated population 400,000)
Other major cities and towns
Administrative divisions
Highest point
Time
Banja Luka, Tuzla, Zenica, Mostar, Bjeljina, Brčko, Bihać
Two entities and one district: Federation of BiH (ten cantons)
and Republika Srpska; Brčko district
Maglić Mountain (2,386m)
Central European Time (GMT +1 hour)
Currency KM (Konvertibilna marka) or BAM (Bosnian mark). 1€ = 1.95
KM/BAM (fixed Rate)
International telephone code +387
Climate
Economy
Major airlines
Main international airport
Voltage
Alpine continental in the north, Mediterranean in the south
Metal, agriculture, tourism, forestry, energy
Austrian Airlines, Turkish Airlines, Croatia Airlines, WizzAir
Sarajevo
Standard European, 220V
53

INFORMACIJE O PUTOVANJU
automobil),
autoput "9. januar "od Prnjavora do Doboja
(4KM / auto) i
A1 od Zenice do Sarajeva (6KM / auto).
Oba autoputa imaju platne kabine slične
hrvatskom sistemu: plaćate prema pređenoj
udaljenosti, prema klasi vašeg vozila. Moguće
je platiti konvertibilnim markama, evrima ili
kreditnom karticom. Vožnja po gradovima,
naročito u Sarajevu, može biti vrlo komplikovana,
posebno u Starom gradu i okolnim brdima
gdje su mnoge ulice jednosmjerne i izuzetno
strme. U gradu je uvijek dinamično, zato obratite
pažnju kao i na bilo koji drugi gradski prostor. U
Glavnom gradu dešavaju se i povremene krađe i
provale automobila.
USLOVI VOŽNJE
Vozačke dozvole koje su izdale države Evropske
unije i bivše republike Jugoslavije su
u upotrebi. Za sve ostale vozačke dozvole
preporučuje se međunarodna vozačka
dozvola (IDP).
Ako je vaš automobil registrovan u Evropskoj
uniji, na granici će vam tražiti na uvid
zeleni karton za vaš automobil, dokumente
o osiguranju vozila. Zeleni karton
možete dobiti od svoje osiguravajuće
kuće, u svakom trenutku i besplatno. Sva
osiguranja ne pokrivaju putovanje po BiH
(prije polaska na put provjerite!) ako vaše
osiguranje ne pokriva i nemate zelenu
kartu, onda možete kupiti (poprilično
skupu!) privremenu polisu osiguranja na
svim graničnim prelazima izuzev Neuma.
Glavni saobraćajni zakoni - Ograničenje brzine
je 50km/h u naseljenim mjestima, 80km/h na
otvorenim putevima i 120km/h na autoputevima,
osim u slučaju kada saobračajni znakovi
pokazuju drugačije.
Uključena svjetla su obavezna po danu i naravno,
po noći. Obavezno veznje sigurnosnog
pojasa!
Vaš automobil mora imati: trougao upozorenja,
rezervne sijalice za vanjska svjetla vašeg automobila,
komplet za prvu pomoć, vuču, rezervnu
gumu i dizalicu. U rutinskim saobraćajnim
kontrolama ovo je prvo što će vam tražiti. Zimske
gume su obavezne od 15. novembra do 15.
aprila! Granica za dozvoljenu količinu alkohola
je 0,03%. Predviđena je zabrana vožnje pijanog
lica na prednjem sjedištu odnosno mjesta za
suvozača.
Policijske kontrole - Ukoliko ste uhvaćeni u
saobraćajnom prekršaju poput prekoračenja
propisane brzine, dobićete novčanu kaznu sa
odgovarajućim iznosom koju morate platiti
na licu mjesta. Međutim, dešava se da, kako
strance tako i lokalno stanovništvo, zaustave
zbog neučinjenih krivičnih djela, jer policajci
uzimaju mito u visini od najmanje 10 KM, u zavisnosti
od krivičnog djela. Budući da vam ne mogu
to otvoreno reći pokušaće na suptilan način da
vam na to ukažu, igrajte na kartu stranca i ne
dozvolite da vas ubjede u nešto što niste učinili.
Ukoliko ostanete smireni i pokažete da imate
dovoljno vremena pronaćete način da riješite
počinjeni prekršaj kroz razgovor sa njima.
Naši savjeti za ugodnu vožnju - Ne ostavljajte
ništa u automobilu! Posebno ne, dragocjenosti
koje su vidljive, to bi samo ohrabrilo lopove
da vam provale u automobil. Ovo nepisano
pravilo se odnosi na veće gradove poput Sarajeva,
Banjaluke i Mostara, tako da je poželjno
odabrati parking sa video nadzorom. U ruralnim
područjima ovo nije problem, ali ipak, bolje je
zaključavati automobil kako bi bio siguran.
Pazite se brzih preticanja u vožnji, jer to vozači
često rade. Lokalni vozači dobro poznaju puteve
i poprilično su dobri u tome, ali budite oprezni
dok nesteknete iskustvo u vožnji na lokalnim
putevima
Drumski putevi - Mnoge penjališta se nalaze u
seoskom okruženju, sa kratkim dijelovima makadamskih
puteva. U stabilnim vremenskim uslovima
to ne bi trebalo da bude problem za bilo
koji automobil sa propisanom visinom. Vozite
sporije, ali ako niste sigurni, bolje je da parkirate
automobil i nastavite pješke do odredišta
Nemojte vjerovati Google kartama jer su još
74

INFORMACIJE O PUTOVANJU
uvek nove u BiH, naša lična iskustva pokazuju da
su nedosljedne u prikazivanju najkraćih puteva,
na primjer mogu vas usmjeriti na makadam
preko kojeg možete preći samo terenskim
vozilom ili vas odvesti u slijepu ulicu. Preuzmite
neku aplikaciju za pametne telefone poput Here
maps ili kupite autokartu na benzinskoj stanici
ili naprosto, pitajte nekoga od prolaznika ako se
izgubite.
PUTOVANJE AUTOBUSOM
Bosna i Hercegovina ima veliku mrežu
međugradskih i međunarodnih autobuskih
linija. Autobusi su najčešće, najefikasnije i
najjeftinije javno prevozno sredstvo u BiH. Godinama
unazad na ovaj način se održavaju veze
sa Njemačkom, Austrijom, Hrvatskom, Crnom
Gorom, Makedonijom, Srbijom, Slovenijom,
Francuskom, Holandijom, Belgijom, Danskom,
Švedskom, pa čak i sa Norveškom (ovo su česte
destinacije bosanske dijaspore). Tokom letnje
sezone, povećan je broj putovanja na Jadransku
obalu. Autobuska flota u BiH je još uvijek u
procesu obnavljanja, što znači da ćete pronaći
mješavinu starih i novih modela autobusa.
Najnoviji autobusi sa pet zvejzdica (sa klima
uređajem) uglavnom se koriste za međunarodne
linije, ali i za vožnje po Bosni. Vozači na lokalnim
linijama uglavnom ne govore engleski jezik, ali
na međunarodnim pravcima vozači su obavezni
da govore bar jedan strani jezik.
Lokalni autobuski red vožnji ima relativno gustu
mrežu koja pokriva sve gradove duž regionalnih
puteva i doseže i do slabo naseljenih mjesta,
ali do tih mjesta autobusi voze jednom dnevno
ili nekoliko puta nedeljno. Ako želite da se
izađete na mjesta koja nemaju stanični pristup
ili između dvije stanice, slobodno se obratite
vozaču vozaču ili mu pokažite na mapi vaše
odredište. Za stalni red vožnje najbolje je pitati
na lokalnoj autobuskoj stanici i ponijeti mapu
zbog lakše komunikacije. Putovanje autobusom
je veoma jeftino u Bosni, cijene na najkonkurentnijim
destinacijama su oko 7‒9 €-centi po kilometru.
Na manje konkurentnim cijene se kreću
11‒14 € -centi po kilometru.
Za dodatne informacije o putovanjima autobusom
pogledajte na: www.eurolines.com ili
putem većih operatera: www.centrotrans.com i
globtour.getbybus.com
Savjeti za putovanje autobusom
• Karte za autobus mogu se kupiti na stanici ili
direktno od vozača autobusa.
• Ukoliko kupujete povratnu kartu sa
ograničenim vremenom ili kartu sa
neograničenim vremenom kod istog prevoznika
cijene mogu biti niže 60% u odnosu na
cijenu karte u jednom smjeru. Međutim, ukoliko
se vraćate autobusom drugog prevoznika
plaćate punu cijenu.
• Karte sa popustom su obično dostupne
djeci, studentima i đacima sa potvrdom da
se školuju (indeks ili đačka knjižica) i u većini
slučajeva penzionerima. Popusti za karte variraju
od kompanije do kompanije koja ponekad
zna da zakomplikuje proces kupovine takvih
karata.
• Prtljag koji treba da ide u prtljažnik autobusa
iznosi 1‒2 € po prtljagu.
• Slanje obimnijeg paketa ili predmeta putem
autobusa, kao što su bicikli, namještaj itd., su
uobičajeni. Potrebno je da se javite vozaču 15
minuta prije polaska i na licu mjesta plaćate
neku vrstu donacije za učinjenu uslugu.
• Na većim stanicama, ulaz na perone je kontrolisan
i nije moguć bez karte.
• Autobuske stanice obično imaju kafić ili prodavnicu
sa osnovnim namirnicama
• Tokom ljetnje sezone dešava se da autobusi
kasne, zbog gustog saobraćaja ili čekanju na
graničnim prelazima.
• U autobusima nije dozvoljen prevoz kućnih
ljubimaca. Da biste bili sigurni provjerite prije
polaska!
Glavni autobuski terminali
Sarajevo
U Sarajevu se nalaze dvije međunarodne autobuske
stanice, glavna autobuska stanica i manja
autobuska stanica u istočnom dijelu grada
(Lukavica):
Autobusna stanica Sarajevo (ul. Put života 8,
Sarajevo, +387 33 213-100). Glavna autobuska
stanica Sarajevo nalazi se 5km zapadno od
75

INFORMACIJE O PUTOVANJU
tima u Hercegovini, kao što su Mostar, Trebinje,
Čitluk, Ljubuški, Stolac i Međugorje. Potražite
sljedeća domaća vina: žilavku, tamjaniku, blatinu
i vranac. Cijene su relativno povoljne, tako
da ih u prodavnicama možete pronaći za 5-30
KM, a u restoranima od 20-60 KM.
2.4. NOVAC I BUDŽET
Valuta koja se koristi u Bosni i Hercegovini je
konvertibilna marka (KM), odnosno Bosnian
Marks (BAM) i ima fiksni kurs koji se vezuje za
evro sa sljedećim kursom:
PRODAJNI KURS
EU 1 EUR (evro) 1,95 KM
Australija 1 AUD (australijski dolar) 1,26 KM
Kanda 1 CAD (kanadski dolar) 1,30 KM
Hrvatska 1 HRK (kuna) 0,26 KM
Japan 100 JPY (jen) 1,48 KM
Srbija 100 RSD (srpski dinar) 1,63 KM
Turska 1 TYL (turska lira) 0,44 KM
UK 1 GBP (funta) 2,17 KM
USA 1 USD (američki dolar) 1,66 KM
Kurs za septembar 2017. godine. Za trenutni kurs,
provjerite check www.xe.com
ZA UDOBNO PUTOVANJE, OBRATITE
PAŠNJU NA SLJEDEĆE SAVJETE
• Mjenjačnice se mogu naći na granicama, u
mnogim centrima i bankama.
• Banke i bankomati su dostupni u gradovima,
dok u ruralnim područijima ih nema.
• Plaćanje karticama nije toliko uobičajeno kao
u većini zapadnoevropskih zemalja ili u Sjedinjenim
Državama, posebnio ako su pitanju
manje količine novca. U svim savremenim
supermarketima, na većini benzinskih pumpi
i boljih restorana, možete platiti sa karticama
(Visa, Maestro itd.) Provjerite mogućnost
plaćanja kartiom prije nego što zatražite
račun.
• Kada je u pitanju gotovina: Pokušajte da platite
novčanicom približno iznosu računa, sačuvajte
kovanice za još niže iznose. Kada vidite cijene,
razumjećete napor malih trgovina da vam vrati
kusur od novčanice u iznosu od 100 KM.
• Evro (samo papirne novčanice) se ponekad
prihvataju u većim radnjama, nekim prodavnicama
i na benzinskim pumpama. Najbolje je
pitati prije kupovine i pogledati natpise (Samo
domaća valuta/Ne primamo evro).
BUDŽET
Bosna ima veoma nizak standard u poređenju
sa zapadnoevropskim zemljama. Hrana, izlasci,
prevoz: Cijene su veoma niske a još su niže kada
napustite gradske centre. Na primjer, pristojan
obrok u dobrom restoranu iznosi 20–30 KM
uključujući nekoliko pića i dezert, običan obrok
u solidnom restoranu iznosiće 7–15 KM. Ukoliko
ne želite da trošite novac, možete kupiti obrok
za 3 KM (pita i jogurt) ili kupiti kesu slatkih i
ukusnih peciva za 5–10 KM u jednoj od mnogih
pekara, u zavisnosti od regije. Alkoholna i bezalkoholna
pića su takođe niskih cijena, piva se
kreću oko 2KM po boci, kafa 0,5–1 KM u ruralnim
područjima i ne više od 3 KM u prestižnim gradskim
kafanama.
Međugradski prevoz je veoma pristupačan. Na
primjer, put Mostar–Sarajevo iznosiće 10–18
KM. Gradski autobusi su uvijek povoljni sa
prosječnom cijenom karte od 1,60 KM. Cijene
taksija variraju od grada do grada, ali i dalje su
mnogo povoljniji u odnosu na cijene zapadnoevropskih
taksija, a kreću se od oko 1 KM po
kilometru.
Smještaj je nešto malo skuplji u glavnim gradovima.
Tipične cijene hotela su oko 50–70 KM
po osobi, za noć u dvokrevetnoj sobi. U manjim
gradovima, možete pronaći hotel ili motel za 50
KM. Kamp mjesto se nudi po cijeni od 10 KM po
šatoru, privatni smještaj je između 15 i 25 KM za
krevet na jednu noć u privatnoj kući i oko 20–40
KM za krevet u hostelu ili pansionu/apartmanu.
2.5. ZDRAVLJE I SIGURNOST
Tipična pitanja prijatelja ili rođaka: Ideš u
84

INFORMACIJE O PUTOVANJU
Bosnu? Zanimljivo ...Da li je tamo sigurno? Zar
nemaju mine, bio je rat, zar ne? Izuzev minskih
polja Bosna i Hercegovina je jedno od najsigurnijih
mjesta u Evropi. Nasilje i kriminal je niži
od standarda EU. Za muškarce kao i za žene,
šetanje po ulicama u svakom gradu ili mjestu u
bilo koje doba dana ili noći je relativno bezbijedno.
HITNI POZIVI
112 Poziv za Hitne slučajeve
122 Policija
123 Vatrogasci
124 Hitna pomoć
1282 Pomoć na putu (Klub
automobila i motocikla BiH)
ZDRAVLJE
Bosna i Hercegovina nema zakonske zahtjeve
za vakcinaciju. Da biste pronašli apoteku, dovoljno
je da obratite pažnju dok šetate gradom
i sigurno ćete je pronaći. U većim centrima ih
ima mnogo, a obično je bar jedna otvorena 24
časa dnevno tzv. dežurna apoteka. Ove apoteke,
uglavnom imaju sve potrebne ljekove. U selima
i manjim mjestima apoteke su rijetke, ukoliko ih
ima postoji mogućnost da nećete naći ono što
vam treba. U BiH nalazi se veliki broj bolnica,
poliklinika, privatnih klinika, te stručnih i iskusnih
ljekara koji rade u većim gradskim centrima.
Ukoliko vam je potrebna medicinska njega,
uvijek možete kontaktirati svoju ambasadu, jer
one obično imaju liste ljekara sa kojima sarađuju
ili jednostavno pitajte farmaceuta/farmaceutkinju
u apoteci.
GORSKE SLUŽBE SPAŠAVANJA
U Bosni i Hercegovini ima mnogo lokalnih
gorskih službi spašavanja (GSS). Njihovi članovi
obično su planinari, penjači, specijalne snage,
policajci, vojnici, ronioci i rafteri koji posjeduju
visok stpen stručnosti stručnosti i poznavanje
terena. Dokazali su svoje kapacitete u ekstremnim
situacijama tokom katastrofalnih poplava
u jugoistočnoj Evropi 2014. godine, što ih je
izgradilo u jake partnere sa opštim službama
hitne pomoći. Nedovoljna finansijska sredstva
ne sprečavaju ih da stalno rade na sebi, pa čak
od sopstvenih primanja izdvajaju za što bolju
opermu. U slučaju da se nađete u opasnoj
situaciji, ne očekujte spašavanje helikopterom
kao na Alpama, ali možete računati na visoko
motivisanu, profesionalnu i dobro obučenu
mrežu spasilačkih službi koja poznaju teren kao
niko drugi.
Gorske stanice se nalaze u Banjaluci, Bihaću,
Travniku, Zenici, Gornjem Vakufu, Bugojnu,
Sarajevu, Mostaru, Livnu, Goraždu i Foči itd.
Ukoliko se nađete u bezizlaznoj situaciji pozovite
ih (besplatno) preko policijske telefonske linije
122 ili telefonskog broja za sve hitne slučajeve
112.
MINSKA POLJA
Pitanje minskih polja je razumljivo briga. Tokom
rata (1992–1995. godine) položeno je milion
mina i mnoge od njih su samo ostavljene do
danas. Zbog toga, Bosna i Hercegovina je i dalje
zemlja sa značajnom kontaminacijom mina. Danas
je oko 1000 km² ili oko 2% teritorije zemlje
još uvek minirano.
Tačan broj mina se ne može odrediti jer su
tokom rata uništeni mnogi planovi postavljanja,
a minska polja nisu dokumentovana od strane
paravojnih jedinica. Procjenjeno je da se u Bosni
i Hercegovini nalazi oko 80.000 mina i neeksplodiranih
ubojtih sredstava.
Kopnene mine su daleko najveći problem za
približno 500.000 građana i samu ekonomsku
rekonstrukciju zemlje. Minska polja su dovela
do stradanja velikog broja civila, nanošenja
povreda lokalnom stanovništvu, stradanju
stoke, kontaminaciji velike količine obradivog
zemljišta, zastoju u proizvodnji i trgovini, te
stalni strah od opasnosti. Nakon rata, mnoge
izbjeglice i raseljena lica su bila prisiljeni da
se vrate u regije koji su i dalje kontaminirane
85

106
CLIMBING FESTIVALS & EVENTS

CLIMBING FESTIVALS & EVENTS
osnovno skrovište (vreće za spavanje i podloška
su obavezne), sa kamp kuhinjom i sanitarijama.
Info & registration/Info i regitracije:
www.blagaj-climbing.com
www.facebook.com/blagajclimbing
iznad penjališta sa osnovnom sanitarnom
infrastrukturom i vodom. Postoje i druge vrste
smještaja, koje se mogu unaprijed rezervisati.
Svake godine, nekoliko sedmica prije festivala,
penjalište se uređuje, pri čemu se izbuši oko 20
novih smjerova i otvoreno je za one koji žele da
pomognu i nauče nove vještine.
Middle of May/Sredina maja
Info & registration/Info i regitracije:
www.extremebl.com
www.facebook.com/extremebl
End of May/Kraj maja
PECKA ROCK CLIMBING FESTIVAL
Pecka, Krajina
This climbing festival is one of the oldest and
biggest proper climbing festivals of BiH. Since
2011 visitors from all over Europe have flocked
to the 4-day fun event in the tiny beautiful
western bosnian village Ubovića brdo. There’s
a small program that includes an tick-list based
competition, highlining, climbing together, the
forest cinema and forest party. A camp on the
field above the rocks with very basic sanitary
infrastructure and water is included, further
indoor accommodation can be arranged. In the
weeks leading up to the festival, the crag gets
it’s annual cleanup, with around 20 new routes
being bolted - this is open for people who want
to help and learn new skills.
OOvaj penjački festival jedan je od najstarijih
i najvećih penjačkih fetivala u BiH. Od 2011.
godine posjetioci iz cijele Evrope dolaze na
ovaj četvorodnevni zabavni festival u malom,
predivnom selu Ubovića brdo u zapadnom dijelu
Bosne. Program festivala je jednostavan i čine
ga takmičenje (sami označavate na papiru šta
ste popeli), kino i žurka u šumi, kao i kombinacija
penajnja i hajlajna. Kamp se nalazi na poljani
ADNAN ĆATIĆ ĆATA MEMORIAL - BIG
WALL SPEED CLIMBING COMPETITION/
ADNAN ĆATIĆ ĆATA MEMORIJAL –
TAKMIČENJE U BRZINSKOM PENJANJU
- Babin Zub/Dariva, Sarajevo
This small international speed climbing competition
was organized by Sarajevo Climbing
Club Red Point from 2008 to bring the community
together and increase the visibility of
Rock climbing as a sport in Sarajevo. After the
original organizer, Adnan Ćatić died on a rafting
challenge a few hundred metres downstream in
the Miljacka river in 2012, the event was turned
into a memorial that is since has since been held
sporadically and attracts climbers from BiH
but also abroad. The challenge is to climb the
2-pitch route as fast as possible. What took many
hours at the first ascent in 1968, now is climbed
by the best teams in around 10 minutes. There
are female/male and youth categories with no
age restrictions.
107

OVERVIEW: CLIMBING AREAS
4.2.2 Kamenolom, Zenica 260
380m
5’ 30m
4
4
6
3
0 ∑ 17
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.2.3 Pršljanica, Bugojno 266
740m
1-3’ 23m
0
6
8
4
0 ∑ 18
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.2.4 Duboka, Bugojno 276
840m
1’ 17m
0
1
1
0
0
∑ 2
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.2.5 Memagica stijena, Olovo 280
660m
5’ 20m
4.2.6 Pirati karabineri, Olovo 284
1
0
0
5
4
∑ 10
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
580m
1’ 20m
0
0
0
5
5
∑ 10
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.2.7 Vidakova stijena, Kiseljak 292
540m
5’ 25m
0
5
4
3
0
∑ 12
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
124

OVERVIEW: CLIMBING AREAS
4.3 Sarajevo & Eastern Bosnia 296
4.3.1 Bukovik 304
1.240m
15’ 70m
3
13
18
7
0 ∑ 41
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.3.2 Dariva & Babin zub 314
580m
2’ 70m
5
11
19
10
3 ∑ 48
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.3.3 Špicasta Stijena 332
870m
1’ 17m
0
0
7
4
1 ∑ 12
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.3.4 Sunnyland 336
780m
5’ 19m
0
11
4
5
0 ∑ 20
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.3.5 Han Derventa 340
840m
3’ 25m
0
0
0
0
0 ∑ 0
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
4.3.6 Orlovača 350
930m
2’ 100m
0
5
2
1
0 ∑ 8
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
125

KRAJINA - ZEČIJI KAMEN
4.1.1 Zečiji kamen
500m 10’ 40m
0
2
11
1
0 ∑ 14
Krajina
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
GPS Parking: 44.998448, 16.880982 | GPS Crag: 45.001399, 16.883033
Zečiji kamen crag is located in Kozara National park, a hilly patch of land between
the rivers Una, Sana, Sava and Vrbas. It is a protected national forest since 1967
and offers hiking, mountain biking, herb-picking and even hosts a small ski-lift.
Penjalište Zečiji kamen se nalazi u Nacionalnom parku Kozara, brdovitom dijelu
između rijeka Une, Sane, Save i Vrbasa. Predstavlja zaštićen nacionalni park od 1967.
godine. Aktivnosti koje možete pronaći za sebe su sljedeće: pješačenje, planinarenje,
brdski biciklizam i branje ljekovitih biljaka. U blizini možete pronaći i mali skijaški lift.
136

KRAJINA - ZEČIJI KAMEN
NATIONAL PARK
KOZARA
2
4
5
3
1
PRIJEDOR
KOZARAC
6
7
6km
BANJA LUKA
The crag was developed by climbers from Prijedor
and members of Extreme climbing club from
Banjaluka. The rock is in a picturesque location
right next to a small waterfall that descends
down the hill in a pooling stream. There is a
comfortable shady picnic area with a wooden
platform, benches and a fireplace.
Rock is super-solid, nicely sculpted grey limestone.
This area is definitely worth spending a
day or two if you climb mostly French 6s and
enjoy long and technical routes on steep slabs
and vertical or slightly overhanging faces.
The main orientation of the crag is south and
summers can be very hot. The forest gives a bit
of shade and and the pools of the small stream
are nice for cooling off.
Penjalište su opremili penjači iz Prijedora i
članovi penjačkog kluba Extreme iz Banjaluke.
Stijena se nalazi na živopisnoj lokaciji odmah
pored malog vodopada koji se spušta niz brdo i
prelazi u potok. Pored toga lokacija posjeduje
i sjajan prostor za izlet u prirodnom hladu sa
drvenom platformom, klupama i prostorom za
logorsku vatru.
Stijena je krečnjačka, čvrsta i lijepo oblikovana.
Ako penjete francuske ocjene 6 i uživate u dugim
i tehničkim smjerovima na pozitivnoj, vertikalnoj
ili neznatno prevjesnoj stijeni, onda za
ovo penjalište obavezno izdvojite jedan ili dva
dana. Stijena je uglavnom južno orjentisana i
ljeta mogu biti veoma topla. Osvježenje možete
137

BANJA LUKA AREA MAP
1
BANJA LUKA
3
7
5
8
1
6
5km
4
2
5
4
3
11
6
2
1 SUTURLIJA
2 KANJON TIJESNO
3 SKUBALJ
4 CRNA STIJENA
5 ZVEČAJ
6 PREKO VODE
7 KAMENI MOST
6
10
7
142
3km
9
JACE

KRAJINA
ACCOMODATION/
SMJEŠTAJ
1 Hostel Topić
2 Camp/Kamp Vrbas
FOOD & DRINK/
HRANA I PIĆE
. Restaurants are around Gospodska pedestrian street
in Banja Luka/Restorani oko Gospodske ulice u Banjoj
Luci (Kod Muje, Marcello, Aj Zdravo, Zen restaurant)
3 Scuba diving bar/Ronilački klub Buk (riverfront terrasse/terasa
uz rijeku)
4 Rafting club/Rafting klub Kanjon (riverfront terrasse
with a restaurant and small beach/teresa uz rijeku
sa restoranom i malom plažom)
5 Restaurant/Restoran Slap (riverfront terrasse with
beach, swimming area and casscades/tereasa uz
rijeku sa plažom, kupalištem i kaskadama)
6 Pizzeria/Picerija Kola (best pizza in Banja Luka area
in small village Kola, open on Friday, Saturday and
Sunday/najbolja pica u banjalučkoj regiji u malom
selu Kola, otvoreno petkom, subotom i nedjeljom)
REST DAY & SIGHTSEEING/
ATRAKCIJE I ZNAMENITOSTI
. Kastel Fortress (Historical sight, Summer concerts)/
Tvrđava Kastel (Istojiska znamenitost, ljetna bina za
koncerte)
. Tržnica farmers market/Gradska pijaca
. Rafting and various beaches on Vrbas river south of
Banja Luka/Rafting i plaže na rijeci Vrbas, južno od
Banja Luke
7 Vrućica hot springs/Termalni izvori Vrućice
8 Banj Brdo WWII Monument and Viewpoint/spomenik
i vidikovac
9 Spring and watermills/Izvorište i mlinovi Krupa na
Vrbas
10 Ethno museum/Etno muzej Ljubačevo
11 Viewpoint/Vidikovac Ljubačić
NIGHTLIFE/
NOĆNI ŽIVOT
. Bars/Barovi: Žiža, Eklektik, Pauza, Kadar
. Clubs/Klubovi: Boom Boom Room, Tvornica, DKC Incel
143

INTERVIEW: DŽENAN HOZIĆ
We should be happy
we stayed alive.
148

INTERVIEW: DŽENAN HOZIĆ
How did you start climbing?
While I was at a camp in Bardača wetland, I met
Mario Lukajić, who was one of the founders of
the rock climbing group “Extreme” in Sokolski
dom. He mentioned that he made a big climbing
wall with his colleagues, so one night I went to
check it out. Quite accidentally, on the way, I
met Igor Vukić and a few friends from school.
We tried it and have been ever since. That was
in 2003.
What kept you climbing besides your friendship
with Igor?
Well, I don’t know, I think that friendship was
crucial hahaha… :-) I found myself in the sport
somehow. I was also an active guy before, but I
did not enjoy group sports much. I have always
been climbing trees, my kindergarten’s roof,
jumping over the fences etc.
of the beauty of the line I was making. Now
when I look back to some of my old routes, I see
the unnecessary mistakes we were making in
bolting, and I noticed how essential it is to know
what are you doing. First of all you should be
a relatively good climber, have some years of
experience before you learn to bolt. But in our
beginnings we couldn't do it in this proper order,
if we wanted to climb outdoors then first we had
to learn how to bolt and make the routes and
then learn to climb them.
How did your beginnings of climbing look like?
I remember during the winter it was very cold
in our climbing gym, that was one of the main
characteristics of that period. I also remember
climbing for the first time in nature with Mario,
we went to Kameni Most, and climbed the route
Do jaja, a 5c which was the only multi-pitch (2
pitches) near Banja Luka. One scary moment
was when we did not equalise the length of the
rope, and while I was descending I felt the end
of one side of the rope and immediately grabed
and hung myself on the closes bolt.
At that time, you did not know that you should
tie the knot at the end of the rope?
Yes, we also did not know how to equalize the
ends of the rope along with some other things. I
think we were quite good given the level of training
we had; we should be happy we stayed alive.
After that I started to read a lot, I was looking for
books, articles, and then in 2006, I organised a
rock climbing school (ie rock climbing courses
which made climbing much safer).
When did you start bolting, do you remember
what was the first route you made?
In 2004, during the work camp on Kameni Most,
I made my first climbing route called Kraljica
uzdaha, a 6a. Petar Pećanac was teaching me
how to bolt, and I remember he was so jealous
What is your favourite route that you bolted?
I think it's Savršen dan, 6c in canyon Tijesno,
but there are a lot of routes in the canyon that
should be bolted or trad climbed, so this could
easily be changed. I would also single out one
more route, Meša Selimović, 7b at Pecka.
149

158

KRAJINA - KANJON TIJESNO
159

KRAJINA - KANJON TIJESNO
4.1.3 Kanjon Tijesno
Krajina
220m 5-30’ 210m
0
6
35
15
8 ∑ 64
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
GPS Parking bottom: 44.683776, 17.177459 | GPS Parking top: 44.689164, 17.169969
Tijesno Canyon is 12 km from Banjaluka on the main highway to Jajce. The look
up from the busy road offers spectacular views of 250 metres of rock that is
structured by finger like ridges and vertical faces extending almost down to the
road, or “the girls hair” (Djevojačka kosa) as an old name says. Kanjon Tijesno se
nalazi na udaljenosti od 12 km od Banjaluke na magistralnom putu prema Jajcu. Sa
prometnog puta pruža se spektakularan pogled na stijene visine do 250 m koje imaju
strukturu grebena u obliku prsta na ruci i vertikalnih stijena koje se prostiru skoro do
ceste.
The first climbs were established in the 1980’s by
the pre-war generation of climbers from Banja
Luka and Edin Durmo from Zenica, in alpine
style trad routes with some aid sections. In the
1990s and early 2000s, it got very quiet in the
Canyon, from 2010 a handful of sport routes and
4 multi pitch routes have been put up through
the Amfiteatar, Chucho Mucho and Slalom sectors
by the Climbing Club Extreme and friends.
The area saw a massive development between
2015 and 2017 during the famous Drill & Chill
festivals.
It is always impressive to see how much rock can
be folded into such a short stretch of road. It is a
natural pearl, with the jungle like forest and the
turquoise river below. The approaches are short
and they host an abundance of solid limestone
of all colours, styles and angles – hard & steep
endurance hammers, slaby old-school sneaking,
classic ridge scrambling, logical trad lines or
plaisir jug-pulling.
Currently there are around 180 pitches of climbing
up to 200m, with difficulties mostly in the 6th
and 7th French grades. Amfiteatar and Oker are
both spectacular steep walls, with 70-100m long
iconic overhangs that currently offer around 120
pitches of futuristic sport climbing on grey and
orange crimps, pockets and tufas, with the biggest
density of some of hard routes and projects
in the country and the potential for many more.
The routes are exceptionally well bolted and
typically equipped with double-chain ringanchors
for rappeling. The other sectors have a
bit of everything, beginners will enjoy the easier
cruising in the Chucho Mucho, Djevojačka kosa
and Kamen mudrosti sector, while the hungry
should check the routes starting at the bottom
of Amfiteatar and the Oker sector.
It’s possible to climb all year round, since in
the summer you can move to the west facing
sectors in the morning and east facing sectors
in the afternoon. In the winter, if there’s no wind
and not too much snow you can easily climb in
a T-shirt in the Amfiteatar sector and any sunny
face.
Prvi smjerovi su penjani 1980-ih od strane predratnih
generacija penjača iz Banjaluke i Edina
Durme iz Zenice. Uglavnom se radilo o tradi-
154

KRAJINA - KANJON TIJESNO
cionalnim smjerovima alpskog stila sa elementima
tehničkog penjanja. Devedesetih godina i
početkom dvadesetog vijeka, bilo je vrlo tiho u
Kanjonu Tijesno, a od 2010. godine niz sportskih
smjerova i četiri višedužinca su opremljena u
sektorima Amfiteatar, Chucho Mucho i Slalom
od strane penjačkog kluba Extreme i prijatelja.
Područje je doživjelo ogroman razvoj između
2015. i 2017. godine zahvaljujući poznatom
festivalu Drill & Chill Climbing and Highlining
Festival.
Uvijek je impresivno vidjeti koliko stijena
može da postoji na tako malom prostoru. To je
pravi prirodni biser, sa šumom poput džungle
i tirkiznom rijekom ispod. Pristupi su kratki i
obiluju mnoštvom čvrstog krečnjaka svih boja,
stilova i nagiba; bilo da su to teški i prevjesni
smjerovi na izdržljivost, old-school pozitive na
ravnotežu, klasični grebeni za penjanje, logični
tradicionalni smjerovi ili penjanja po velikim
hvatovima za uživanje. Trenutno se tu nalazi
oko 180 dužina smjerova visine do 200 m, sa
težinama uglavnom 6 i 7 po francuskoj skali.
Amfiteatar i Oker su spektakularni sektori sa
strmim stijenama, od 70 do 100 m dugim ikonastim
prevjesnicama koje trenutno nude oko 120
dužina futurističkog sportskog penjanja na sivim
i narandžastim krimpovima, rupama i tufama, sa
najvećom gustinom teških smjerova i projekata
u zemlji kao i potencijalom za mnogo više.
Smjerovi su izuzetno dobro opremljeni i obično
imaju sidrišta sa dvostrukim prstenovima za
spuštanje. Ostali sektori imaju pomalo svega,
početnici će uživati u lakšim smjerovima u sektoru
Chucho Mucho, Djevojačka kosa i Kamen
mudrosti, a oni željni teškog penjanja bi trebali
provjeriti smjerove koji počinju na dnu sektora
Amfiteatar i Oker.
Penjanje je moguće tokom čitave godine. U
jutranjim časovima, ljeti, penjite na sektorima
koji gledaju na zapad, dok za poslijepodne ostavite
sektore koji gledaju na istok. Zimi, ukoliko
nema vjetra i previše snijega penjanje je moguće
na Amfiteatru ili bilo kojoj drugoj osunčanoj
stijeni.
155

INTERVIEW: JULIEN MAYET
godine, pa se nisam usudio dati težu ocjenu... 8a
se činilo kao dovoljno. Mislim da je Svinjologija
sada već popeta nekoliko puta, a ostali smjerovi
nisu lakši.
Kako ti vidiš razvoj penjanja u Banjoj Luci?
Vidim da je PK Extreme izgradio kapacitete da
efikasno organizuje velike događaje i da sve
učini zadovoljnim i zaista čestitam na tome!
Znam koliko je teško sve to postići i klub to radi
vrlo dobro. Što se tiče penjanja, primjetio sam
da još uvijek samo nekoliko ljudi uživa penjući
na stijenama. Penjanje u prirodi nije u velikoj
mjeri dio penjačke kulture u Banjoj Luci. Hoću da
kažem da ljudi penju vani kada imaju vremena
i kada je lijepo vrijeme, ali nisu baš spremni
da se natjeraju i da odu kad uslovi nisu baš
idealni. Bez obzira na sve, sada ima više penjača
nego prije. Vidim da postoje penjači koji zaista
obećavaju. Nadam se da će nastaviti da penju i
da će prenijeti dio uživanja sa penjanja u sali na
penjanje u prirodi.
pronaći veliko zadovoljstvo.
Penjanje na uže ili bolder?
Volim i jedno i drugo, sve zavisi od raspoloženja,
forme i mogućnosti...
Jednodužinac ili višedužinac?
Definitivno jednodužinac, ali otkako sam izboltao
jedan impresivni višedužinac, stvari se mogu
promjeniti...
Krimp, sloper ili pinč?
Male rupice!
Rakija ili pivo?
Rakija je čistija!
Savjet za mlađe penjače?
Fokusirajte se na uživanje, a ne na trening.
Penjanje u prirodi će vama donijeti puno više
satisfakcije i zadovoljstva. Nepenjući u prirodi
propuštate jako puno, dovoljno je samo da prihvatite
da je OK da padnete i onda ćete sigurno
216

INTERVIEW: JULIEN MAYET
Penjači u Banjoj Luci
su tada imali
naivnu i pozitivnu energiju...
217

KRAJINA - KLEKOVAČA
6a+ 6b+ 6a+ 5b 5c 5b
5b
5b
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
A Runolist
# Route Grade Meters
1 Čistilište 6a+ 15
2 Radijajator 6b+ 15
3 Šmekologija 6a+ 15
4 Ciganska mušica 5b 15
# Route Grade Meters
5 Exit 5c 17
6 Makedo 5b 17
7 Cvjetna bašta 5b 17
8 Ne gazi runolist 5b 17
248

KRAJINA - KLEKOVAČA
6c?
7b? 6b 6b
6c?
8
4
5
7
6
6a+
6a+
6b+
3
B Izgubljeni svijet
# Route Grade Meters
1 Ginekologija 6a+ 16
2 Kratko ali slatko 6b+ 9
3 Mesna plata za troje 6a+ 9
4 Kofer ljubavi 7b? 16
5 Šumski duh 6b 16
6 Jedna dobra kiša 6b 18
7 Tvikno, javi se 6c? 40
6b/25m, 6c/15m - V. Xuan Tuyen 2015
8 Nikad nije kasno 6c? 25
1
2
249

4.4 Herzegovina
368

H E R Z E G O V I N A
3.4 Sunnyland
3.7 Ormanj
4.7 Spijonik
4.3 Drežnica
4.7 Gradina
4.4 Stolac
4.5 Rupa
4.6 Blagaj
369

380
HERZEGOVINA - DUMAN

HERZEGOVINA - D U M A N
381

HERZEGOVINA - RUPA
2 KM 71 KM 86 KM
JABLANICA
1 2 3
OPINE
4 5
6
11 KM 27 KM 48 KM
STOLAC
ACCOMODATION/
SMJEŠTAJ
Various hostels, motels, hotels and private
accommodation in Mostar/Veliki izbor opcija
za smještaj u hostelima, motelima, hotelima i
privatnom smještaju u Mostaru
POINTS OF INTEREST/
TAČKE OD INTERESA
1 Old town Mostar/Stari grad Mostar
2 Hike from Bijela to Lupoglav peak on mountain
Prenj/Planinarenje od Bijele do vrha
Lupoglav na Prenju
3 Hike from Ruišta to Zelena glava and Otiš at
mountain Prenj/Planinarenje od Ruišta do
Zelene glave i Otiša na Prenju
4 Dervish monastery Blagaj Tekija/Spomenik
kulture Blagaj Tekija
5 Medieval Town of Počitelj/Srednjovjekovni
grad Počitelj
6 Kravice waterfalls/Vodopad Kravice
LOCAL CLIMBING CLUB/
LOKALNI PENJAČKI KLUB
ASPK Neretva: aspk.neretva@gmail.com
418

HERZEGOVINA - RUPA
5b 6a+ 8b? 8a+?
1
2
3
4
5c
5
# Route Grade Meters
1 Mahala i kultura 5b 17
2 Majstor Zuka 6a+ 17
3 Agregat 8b? 20
4 Sinovi Mahale 8a+? 20
5 Banana Dex i Jimmy 5c 20
419

ABOUT BALKAN COLOURS & AUTHORS
ABOUT BALKAN COLOURS & AUTHORS
About ten years ago we picked up the art of building something with minimal
means, volunteering in the Banja Luka Climbing Club Extreme. Ever since then we
have been driven by the joy to explore the many wild landscapes and devoted our
time to the development of over a dozen climbing crag with a few hundred routes
in northwestern Bosnia and Herzegovina.
As much as generating climbing infrastructure,
we have been working hard to strengthen a network
of a well connected outdoor community
through local and international events and the
promotion of outdoor sports in local media and
international climbing channels.
We founded this organization, because after
many years of experience in this field, we feel
ready to make a commitment for the careful
development and protection of some of the last
wild places in Europe. Our vision is to take an active
part in the expansion of sustainable outdoor
recreation in the region, which will lend a positive
vision in a number of aspects: We are aiming
for a win-win perspective by not only creating
possibilities for practicing a healthy outdoor
lifestyle in the region, but also to have a positive
impact on local communities by contributing a
financial perspective and regional development
such as the renewal of villages and stronger
connections.
Through our work we want to share the beauty
and privacy of the natural jewels and historical
heritage of this region with an international
community of outdoor enthusiasts who are
looking for fresh experiences and positive
surprises! This region is known for its impressive
hospitality which should pass some unforgettable
memories and lasting impressions, so
guests are likely to become returning visitors
and friends.
IGOR VUKIC
Igor has been a member of the Banja Luka
“Climbing Club Extreme” since 2003 and since
2008 he is one of the leaders of the Club. He led
numerous projects and put a strong focus on
helping to expand climbing areas all over BiH.
“In 2003 I joined the climbing club Extreme, it
didn’t take long until me and the other guys from
that original Banja Luka crew started to improve
the infrastructure: We made adjustable bouldering
wall, campus board, website and computer
program for training and we introduced weight
training with bags filled with rocks. All to one
day maybe climb a 6b+, the hardest routes in the
Banja Luka area! Much has changed since then,
in 2011 we left Sokolski to build our own climbing
gym and soon after I became president of
Climbing Club Extreme. I took up this position,
because I love climbing and nature, I enjoy work-
464

ABOUT BALKAN COLOURS & AUTHORS
ing with people and it also suits my creativity. To
build a gym I had to do a lot of lobbying, media
works, fundraising, finding sponsors and in the
end joining the guys from the Club in more than
year long volunteering Odyssey of turning ruined
old heating place in one of the best gyms in the
region. Later on we organized of international
work camps, climbing festivals, competitions
and various seminars and workshops. Throughout
all this time I bolted more than 50 routes all
over Bosnia. I’m extremely happy, looking back
to when we started almost 15 years ago, to see
the massive expansion of climbing culture in
BiH and the many new connections that came,
within the country and that we are increasingly
becoming part of a european climbing scene.
With many new connections, friendships and
recognition. This book is the next step, I hope
you enjoy it!
Igor holds a Masters degree in Economics and
Finance and a background in programming and
web design. In the last few years he has been
working in finance for an international company,
currently he lives and works abroad and Banja
Luka.
DAVID LEMMERER
David has been a regular in BiH since 2009.
Fascinated by the complex small country and it’s
climbing communities, he has been an avid ambassador
of Bosnia & Herzegovina in Western
Europe through media work, photography and
as an event organizer.
“For me this book is a heartfelt project that
pulls together many of my last years passions.
On a bicycle exploration climbing trip in 2011, i
was immediately overwhelmed by the culture,
hospitality, natural beauty and massive rock potential.
I met climbers from Sarajevo and Banja
Luka, who become very close friends. Their
DIY spirit, black humour and can-do mentality
inspired me so much, that since then most of
my holidays i spent in BiH: Climbing, bolting,
exploring, travelling. It was only consequent
that in 2015/16 i spent a EVS voluntary year at
the Climbing Club Extreme in Banja Luka, which
was an unforgettable time and a huge learning
opportunity for me as a climber, bolter, organizer
and as a person. Even though i’m clearly
“Yugophile” it’s important to me not to fall into
the trap of romanticizing any of the very real,
existential challenges people are facing but to
acknowledge the huge potential and try to use
them to work on a positive change together. In
this sense, my time in BiH highlighted to me the
power of the motto: “Start where you are, use
what you have and do what you can”!
For me, this book also is intended as a “thank
you” that celebrates the great work of the community
that i’m very happy to have became part
of. And I hope that it will manage to give something
back: A common pride, a fun time visiting
all the great climbing crags, a strengthened
climbing culture and maybe even in the long run
a small benefit for the local population. Saying
this, this project shall only be the first step in
our continuing work to move things forward in
climbing and outdoor sports in BiH”.
David holds a Masters degree in Social Work
with a background in Urban Studies, community
organizing and bicycle lobbying. Currently he
works and lives in Vienna as a social worker and
sociologist in the field of urban development
and neighbourhood work.
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DICTIONARY
DICTIONARY
Latin Cyrillic Phonetic expression
A А as in past
B Б as in bat
C Ц as in cats
Č Ч as in chalk
Ć Ћ as in church
Dž Џ as in gin / fudge
Đ Ђ as in jack
E Е as in let
F Ф as in fit
G Г as in game
H Х as in heaven
I И as in east
J Ј as in yes
K К as in Kelvin
L Л as in love
Lj Љ as in million
Nj Њ as in canyon
O О as in opera
P П as in pick
R Р as in berry
S С s as in sound
Š Ш š as in shut
T Т t as in time
U У u as in shoot
V В v as in victory
Z З z as in zero
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DICTIONARY
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