2009 Momentum - Glashütte Original

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Time Study Sapphires and rubies During these processes, about half of the corundum material is lost as dust. Then the blanks go through a series of operations performed by qualified personnel: evening the thickness, forming the exteriors, beveling, faceting, spherical or cylindrical recessing and doming, polishing, cleaning, and quality control. It is only after all of these just about 20 steps have been completed that an imperfection in a crystal can be seen and declared usable or not. The blanks are cleaned between each step to ensure that particles of sapphire residue from the diamond cutting wheels, diamond powder and cementing resins are completely removed. Any of this left on the blank will affect the quality of each machining operation. The most important cleaning step takes place after the final operation. This allows for a proper visual control of the transparency of the piece and ensures that only perfect crystals are delivered to the customer. 32 Momentum 1· 2009 Senator Sixties Technical data Glashütte Original’s designers have captured the joie de vivre of the 1960s in the Senator Sixties, greatly characterized by the domed dial and crystal typical of the period – though then it would have been Hesalite rather than sapphire, the latter a material far more resistant to scratching – which allow the extra-flat case premium expression that perfectly matches the arced, luminescent, skeletonized hands gliding harmoniously across the satin-finished dial with diamond-cut hour markers and extra - vagant numerals. The shaped sapphire crystal case back allows a direct view into automatic manufacture Caliber 39-52 with its characteristic elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as three-quarter plate and swan-neck fine adjustment. This timepiece is available with a silver-coloured or black dial in a rose gold or stainless steel case. www.glashuette-original.com The beauty of blue sapphire lies in the rich colour of this corundum variety Anti-reflective coating is an option for sapphire crystals. This diffuses every reflection so that the naked eye sees almost no reflection. The coating is actually a layer of oxide between three and five microns thick added to the crystal by an evaporation system in a sterilized laboratory at a temperature of about 280°C. The crystals can be made anti-reflective either on the underside or on both sides, and the difference is astounding when you compare the two side by side. If the watch sports a blue or black dial, an anti-reflective coating on both sides can almost make the wearer believe that there is no crystal at all. Likewise, if anti-reflective treatment is missing, a blue or black dial may prove hard to read. One drawback of anti-reflective treatment is that it is softer than the sapphire crystal itself, meaning that although it may be close to impossible to scratch the crystal – which only a diamond can do – the anti-reflective coating can easily be scratched. Crystals treated on one side are 92% anti-reflective, while crystals treated on both sides are 96% anti-reflective. Synthetic rubies, today’s standard as bearing jewels, are, by the way, manufactured the same way. The red boules are literally sliced using a machine outfitted with a copper and diamond cutting tool. The slices are halved, squared, and finally cut into round shapes measuring between 0.3 and 0.5 millimetres in thickness and 1.15 to 2.55 millimetres in diameter. Using synthetic sapphire crystal as a watch dial covering became popular in the late 1960s as it could boast three distinct advantages over the acrylic and mineral crystals that had mainly been used until then. Synthetic sapphire is hard – the second hardest substance available – and therefore can only be scratched, or worked, by a diamond. Synthetic sapphire is heavy, giving a watch a more luxurious feel. And synthetic sapphire is still a precious stone, albeit man-made, making the watch more valuable as a whole – much like the perception that ruby bearings in a movement exude. ✺
�� Glashütte Original. Founder of the German Watch Museum Glashütte. Hand-engraving of the butterfly bridge for the Caliber 66 The PanoInverse XL. Delicate filigree details, hand-engraved with artistic precision give this unique timepiece its unmistakable character. Its Caliber 66 manual winding movement boasts the finest mechanics, hand-crafted in Glashütte Original’s time honored watchmaking tradition. Find out more about us at www.glashuette-original.com or telephone +49 35053 46 0.
Page 1 and 2: Momentum MAGAZINE FOR CONTEMPORARIE
Page 3 and 4: The employees of Glashütte Origina
Page 5 and 6: 34 WALLPAPER Designers from all ove
Page 8 and 9: Photos: Imago, Getty, Picture-Allia
Page 10 and 11: 10 Momentum 1· 2009 Icon Franz Jos
Page 12 and 13: 12 Momentum 1· 2009 Icon Franz Jos
Page 14 and 15: Photos by G.Giesler, Ch.Schwalbach,
Page 16 and 17: 16 Momentum 1· 2009 Moments Univer
Page 18 and 19: Time Zones Norway 18 Momentum 1· 2
Page 20 and 21: Time Zones Norway Above: A fascinat
Page 22 and 23: Time Zones Norway Evoking associati
Page 24 and 25: Time to Time News Sporty chums - th
Page 26 and 27: Time to Time News Finding something
Page 28 and 29: Time Study Sapphires and rubies 28
Page 30 and 31: Time Study Sapphires and rubies By
Page 34 and 35: Time Flow Wallpaper Off the wall Af
Page 36 and 37: Time Flow Wallpaper 36 Momentum 1·
Page 38 and 39: Time Flow Wallpaper 38 Momentum 1·
Page 40 and 41: Photos: Getty (2) 40 Momentum 1· 2
Page 42 and 43: 42 Momentum 1· 2009 Tendence Time
Page 44 and 45: Photo: Getty Time to Style Perfumer
Page 46 and 47: Time to Style Perfumers 46 Momentum
Page 48 and 49: Sources: brand eins, extrawissen.de
Page 50 and 51: ✄ Masthead 50 26 Momentum 3· 3·
Page 52: Fly on your own schedule in the air

2009 Momentum - Glashütte Original

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