2009 Momentum - Glashütte Original

the Hardangervidda mountain plateau in central Norway and the Finnmarksvidda highland
in the far north can be traversed by car, foot or – in winter – on skis. Anglers can fish for
salmon in their choice of 450 lakes, and adventurers can take a mailboat from Bergen to
Kirkenes in the extreme north. The magic of the short, intense summer on the Norwegian
coast is something to be experienced. Although the southern part of Norway is at almost
the same latitude as that of Greenland, water temperatures can reach 18°C and above
thanks to the Gulf Stream, so it is actually the ideal place for a summer holiday – although
word has not yet spread, and the Norwegians are usually left to enjoy it alone.
Most of the major cities are on the west coast and face the sea. Each has its own unique
character. Stavanger is the centre of Norway’s oil industry, yet has managed to maintain its
cosy aspect. Norway’s second city, picturesque Bergen, was for centuries an important member
of the Hanseatic League and remains a centre of the fish trade. The sea port Ålesund to
the north is perhaps the most extraordinary city in the country. In 1904 its historic centre
was destroyed in a fire, then completely rebuilt in the German art nouveau style. Trond heim’s
Nidaros Cathedral is the only real cathedral in the land of stave churches. These wooden
structures were built without the use of a single nail, just like the Viking ships, and represent
an original Norwegian contribution to the world’s architectural history.
The country’s financial and cultural centre is Oslo. There are few capital
cities that are so urban and yet so close to nature. It covers 175 square miles, but threequarters
of its surface area is taken up by woodland. Over 1,600 miles of cross-country
ski runs are just 20 minutes away by train – some of them are illuminated until 11 p.m.
In summer, the same journey time by ferry takes visitors to one of the many islands in
the Oslofjord. It is hard to believe, relaxing in the sunshine on one of the many beaches,
that the capital is just a few minutes away. The Opera House, opened in 2007, has become
the new symbol of Oslo. Evoking as it does icebergs and snow-capped mountains, this
building of shining white marble is uncompromisingly modern and typically Norwegian.
It is probably also the only opera house in the world where anyone who wants to can
climb up onto the roof – just like scaling a lofty peak. The most gorgeous feature inside
is the Main Stage, whose dimensions were based on those of the world-famous
Semperoper in Dresden. Close to the opera house is one of the city’s loveliest streets;
Karl-Johangate leads to the Royal Palace and is lined with trees and smart buildings. The
most elegant stores, however, are to be found in the parallel and side streets. Akersgate,
for example, is on the way to becoming Oslo’s equivalent of Bond Street, at least according
to watchmaker Tom Tidemann. He is the only watchmaker in Norway licensed to sell
Glashütte Original products. These streets also house numerous elegant boutiques.
However, the most exclusive outfit for the modern Norwegian woman does not come
from a boutique but from the coasts and fjords, the plateaus and valleys. It is the bunad,
Norway’s national dress. Many women own one of the elaborate embroidered costumes,
and more and more men are now acquiring the male equivalent. Crown Prince Haakon
has made appearances at several official occasions clad in the traditional garb.
If you fancy viewing the over 400 regional variants of the bunad, you
should plan a trip to Oslo for 17 May, Norwegian Constitution Day, which is a national
holiday. Across the country, children form processions; here in Oslo, 111 school classes
march past the palace, singing and carrying flags, as the Royal Family wave enthusiastically
from their balcony. And everyone joins in with the national anthem, which begins with
the simple but stirring words “Yes, we love this country.” Norwegians respect their traditions
while embracing the advances of modern society – without the remotest feeling that
this is a contradiction. Within a single generation, Norway has gone from being a poor
to a wealthy country without betraying any of its principles. It’s no surprise Norwegians
are so proud of their homeland. But there is one more thing they are particularly proud
of: their achievements in the Winter Olympics. After Russia and Germany, this country of
just 4.7 million inhabitants has the third-largest number of medals. ✺
An architectural gem in the middle of a wood: the Juvet
Landscape Hotel on the Geirangerfjord
Norway Information
Trips: Norway in a nutshell. Round trip to Bergen and Oslo
by train and ship via the Fjordnorwegen. Highly recommended!
www.norwaynutshell.com · Boat trip on the Hurtigruten along
the coast. One of most popular ways to get around Norway.
www.hurtigruten.com
Oslo
Culture: Norwegian Opera, Kirsten Flagstads Plass 1. A guided
tour is an absolute must! www.operaen.no · Vigeland Park,
containing 212 sculptures, is the favourite park of locals and
visitors alike. www.vigeland.museum.no · Munch Museum,
Toyengata 53. www.munch.museum.no · Bygdøy Peninsula
houses many different museums including the Norsk
Folkemuseum open-air museum and the Kon-Tiki Museum –
the place for children!
Food: Theatercaféen, This art nouveau restaurant is a popular
meeting place for businesspeople, intellectuals and artists.
www.hotel-continental.com · Ekeberg Restaurant, Kongsveien
15. The restaurant is housed in an opulently restored
building in the Scandinavian functionalist style with magnificent
views. www.ekebergrestauranten.com · Olympen Mat & Vinhus,
Grønlandsleiret 15. A working man’s pub since 1892, now this
is a pleasantly unpretentious restaurant in one of the city’s
multicultural neighbourhoods. www.olympen.no
Accommodation: Grand Hotel, Karl Johansgate 31. This traditional,
central hotel has often put up Nobel Prize winners.
www.grand.no · Hotel Bristol, Kristian IV's Gate 7. Central
hotel with an intimate “library bar” where you can recharge for
the next bout of sightseeing. www.bristol.no · Grims Grenka.
This design hotel was named by Wallpaper magazine as one of
the 50 best business hotels in the world. www.grimsgrenka.no
Shopping: GlasMagasinet, Stortorvet 9, and Steen og Strøm,
Nedre Slottsgate 8, best department stores in town. www.glasmagasinet.no,
www.steenogstrom.no · Norway Designs, Stortingsgata
28, right next to the National Theatre. Classic Norwegian
design souvenirs. · Tidemann Urmakermester, Akersgata 18.
Exclusive watch shop, authorized dealer of Glashütte Original.
Elsewhere
Ålesund: Hotel Brosundet, former warehouse with minimalistic
fittings and furnishings by Snøhetta, the same firm that
built the Oslo Opera House. www.brosundet.no
On the Geirangerfjord: Juvet Landscape Hotel, built in a
dramatically different style. Guests can participate in special
programmes to get to know the Norwegian countryside.
www.juvet.com
Info on historic hotels in Norway: www.dehistoriske.com
Momentum 1· 2009
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