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62<br />

travel<br />

With its defeat in the Crimean War of 1856,<br />

Russia lost its strategic access to the Black<br />

Sea. Tsar Alexander II then looked for<br />

a Mediterranean port. He delegated several<br />

members of his family to convince the King<br />

of Piedmont and Sardinia, Victor-Emmanuel<br />

– who also possessed the County of Nice –<br />

to allow him to establish a naval, military<br />

and commercial base. This allowed him<br />

to position his fl eet in the Bay of Villefranche-<br />

sur-Mer. The fashion was launched.<br />

From 1864 onwards, the Tsar and the entire<br />

Russian nobility travelled to Nice by railway,<br />

transforming the town into a winter garden.<br />

There they built extraordinary buildings and<br />

magnifi cent residences, endowing Nice<br />

with an exceptional architectural heritage.<br />

Universal writers such as Chekhov<br />

and Tourgueniev joined this elegant society.<br />

After 1917, many White Russians<br />

fl eeing Bolchevism found refuge there as<br />

it was often the only town they knew outside<br />

their native country. Nearly a century later,<br />

the Russian public rail operator RZD<br />

has decided to revive this mythical service<br />

(ref. column page 67) by creating<br />

a remarkable two-day journey through<br />

the past.<br />

Before departure<br />

Moscow and the heart of the empire.<br />

The capital with ‘a thousand and three church<br />

towers and seven stations’ which so inspired<br />

Blaise Cendrars. The autumn is present<br />

here today in shades of black and white.<br />

It’s as if the colours have been inspired<br />

by the low sky. An atmosphere<br />

of mystery, which accentuates the majesty<br />

of the Kremlin’s high towers and blurs<br />

the perspectives of the long avenues.<br />

At the end of one of these, in a lashing<br />

of cold rain, the Belorussky station appears,<br />

the second largest of Moscow’s stations.<br />

A neoclassical building – later crossed with<br />

a touch of Soviet realism – the Belorussky<br />

was inaugurated in September 1870.<br />

Initially called ‘Smolensk’, it only received<br />

its fi nal name in 1936. Nevertheless, for many<br />

people today, it is simply the ‘station of<br />

victory’. The point of departure for soldiers<br />

leaving for the front in June 1941,<br />

it welcomed the returning victors in 1945.

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