In conversation with .. 5!

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We talk about diversity, but the industry can be very misogynist, women are usually overly sexualized as the “housewife” or “whore” and definitely as “straight”. I’ve seen huge changes in this past decade, but there is still a misconception that lesbians don’t have style. Breaking those misconceptions, let’s look at the past and talk about some of the influences on your work. Style-wise I look at non-binary icons like boat racer Joe Carstairs had amazing style, she showed that there were different ways to show female masculinity. Obviously Jack Halberstam’s book Female Masculinity discussing all the different identities was an eye-opener for me. Del LaGrace Volcano’s book on drag and photography overall was an influence, photographing queer female sex scenes and just see what female sex scenes look like in Sex Works. When it came to finding different types of styles (like in fashion), I couldn’t find a lot. It was more that I could find photographers and in their photography find different styles. A lot of what I could find was American based. Besides that, my friends have been a huge influence, the parties I go to in London, going out. You could say that you design clothes to wear to the club and leaving the club. What role does club culture play for you in your work? I would definitely want to see them worn to the club, but I would also say the clothes can be worn in an everyday scenario. The whole collection has an underlain erotic feel to it that draws back to the club scene. The club scene is definitely a big part of who I am and what my life in London has been like. During the lockdown, I realized how much I missed all these queer spaces. Going back to the club scene though, I still find a huge lack of lesbian places, events or parties. When I have been to all-female queer nights, its such great energy, so great being with all these people and then you realize that there are lots of us out there but we never meet because we are separated in this huge city. The club is a way of expressing yourself as well, you can put on a character or look that perhaps you aren’t in an everyday scenario. Also, I just love dancing! on board. They have been the most amazing people to collaborate with, always so energetic, bubbly and happy! You went viral with RiRi in your oversized coat in striking baby pink while still a student in Helsinki. How do you feel about the colour pink? Weirdly enough, I don’t have a pink garment in my wardrobe, maybe a pair of underwear. I love pink, I get drawn to pink for some reason, but I would never wear it. For example with that jacket and the pastel pink, I have in my collection now both of them were good mistakes. The Rihanna jacket was supposed to be orange but it came out as pink because the wadding inside of the jacket was neon orange and because of the white fabric on top it became pink after washing. What steps are you taking now to develop your business and in terms of investors do you feel pressure to change your narrative, is it important for you to have your own brand or would you like to work for someone else? I’ve moved into my own space now and starting to think about production, but I don’t really have the backup funding. I definitely would like to do my own thing and keep it as something on-going. I feel it is important to show what I actually want to show because I am also a bit scared that if I go into a big company, even though I would feel I have a voice inside there, I would assume it would be more like a design junior, so my voice there wouldn’t be that big. While with my aim of what I want to do, having my own brand will help me put my voice out there, but I would like to influence brands as well. What’s the best advice that you received regarding the industry? Probably that your first idea is the best idea. Finally, what does Pride mean for you and did you do anything special to celebrate this year? Dance-pop duo Nimmo walked your CSM graduate collection, how did that happen? Some of the people who walked are friends of mine, but for Nimmo, I just contacted them on Instagram. I told them what my collection was about and if they would be 14
Pride for me is about when I usually go home or to Stockholm and I’m in different Pride situations. Pride is a celebration, a time to meet your friends and be surrounded by all these amazing queer people and Pride is also political. We are still lacking so behind especially now with a lot of Trans rights being taken away in both the UK, USA, Poland and so on. Especially now with Black Lives Matter and Trans lives, it’s going back to the riots at Stonewall. It’s going back to its original meaning and not about companies using it as marketing tools. For Pride this year I was at a Trans Lives Matter protest in London and it was very beautiful, very powerful being surrounded by everyone. Everyone was dressed in flowers and had flowers with the Pride flags. It was beautiful to see the power of our community showing what we want and pushing for it. Black trans women have always been seen as something less and something erased from history and even within the queer community. Some people don’t know that it is because of Marsha P. Johnson and all of the trans women that started the riots we would not have the same rights and privileges today. Follow Ella Boucht @ellaboucht 15
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