Stewart Island 2019 flipbook

BlueTop Walkers in Stewart Island - 2019

Stewart Island Tour
2019
Above: Ringaringa Beach
Front Cover: The chain sculpture at the entrance to Rakiura National
Park. This symbolises the Maori view that Stewart Island is the anchor of
the South Island. The sculpture was unveiled as part of the opening of
the national park in 2002.
Rear Cover: In 2008, a similar sculpture was erected in Bluff
representing the other end of the chain.
© 2019 by the author of this book. The book author retains sole
copyright to his or her contributions to this book. Photographic
contributions from Cliff, Helen, Jan, Jenni & Terry..
This book created 2019 on Affinity Publisher.
Printed 2019 by Blurb from PDF.

Kereru House

Day 1 - Saturday
Phew! Up before the sparrows for the shule to collect us at 6am. Our
flight leaves for Christchurch at 8am so maybe me for a coffee and
breakfast snack – or maybe a fresh muffin to eat on the plane.
Forget the fresh muffin – it was as dry as dehydrated banana! Luckily
AirNZ distributed a gingernut with the cuppa.
At Christchurch we have a leisurely walk from the lounge to the gate –
although some exited the secure area to claim a geocache, then found
they needed to go through all the x-rays again! Onto the ATR-72 and 90
minutes later we’re in Invercargill.
… flying in on the Britten Norman Islander ...
Time for a lunch snack while we waited for the Stewart Island plane at
1pm. Just a short flight but with a seang capacity of 9 we had to split
into 2 groups. 20 minutes later and our ears sll thrumming we are
enjoying a sunny but windy Oban Harbour.
Just a short walk to the accommodaon but no transport as promised.
Whoops! The instrucons were to send an email a week before arrival
(full informaon was provided when the booking was confirmed), but
as it was only just up the hill and we are a walking group ….
We get seled in, have a cuppa then off to explore the delights of the
food store. Armed with a good collecon for a few days, including
drinks, and it’s back up the hill to find the rest of the tour party has
arrived.
… crammed into the cabin ...
Test out the BBQ to cook our sausages for tea - Yum!
Stewart Island is where you can see kiwi – so a few disappear as soon
as it’s dark to the rugby grounds where, apparently, kiwi can be found.
They return about an hour later, cold and happy they had seen a kiwi in
the distance.
Have another try later in the week, maybe.
… taking the sunshine and views at Kereru House ...

Horseshoe Bay with a glimpse of Halfmoon Bay beyond

… but it’s wine o’clock somewhere ...
… a refreshing coffee before shopping ...
… “there’s one - or will we need two?” ...
… getting settled now ...
… where to tomorrow? ... … evening stroll in the township ...

Ackers Point

… getting ready for the day ...
… into the township ...
The view to Oban from Little Bay … onto the track on Lonnekers Beach ...

The view towards Whale Corner

Day 2 – Sunday
Overcast skies to begin our first day of exploring the island. Alison’s
cold had deteriorated overnight and she decided to rest at the house.
Jenni had an early morning excursion to the supermarket returning
with fresh rolls for lunch.
We headed off to the lighthouse at Ackers Point, following the road
around the eastern side of Half Moon Bay past all the small inlets. A
diversion into Harrold Bay and the old coage then back along the
track to Ackers Point. There were good tracks all the way and many
picturesque points.
… boat moored on the beach at Leask Bay ...
It was suggested we return to Harrold Bay for lunch. The sun had come
out and this small cove was protected from the strengthening wind.
Further back on the return journey was a turn-off to the other side of
the peninsular, this road leading to Evening Bay. The map was showing
a track parallel to the beach to bring us onto Ringaringa Beach, but we
had missed it on the way down. More careful scruny as we retraced
our steps eventually revealed a narrow cung in the bush. We
followed this around although it was obviously not used oen. The last
secon was a jungle of hook grass so Dennis displayed the quick
method of removing them.
We spied some nudists on Ringaringa Beach but as we approached
them they morphed into bleached sandbags that had collapsed from a
bank stabilizaon.
… a whale skull sculpture ...
Back onto the higher level road to Wohler’s Monument (geocaches
here) where we observed the effects of the strong wind now sweeping
along the bay. Over Ringaringa Road and we were walking directly into
the wind. A short track through the bush (sealed even) cut out a long
walk around Peterson Hill to bring us back down into the bay and a
small garden, water feature and swing seat. Just the spot to relax.
Simple tea that day – off to the fish and chip caravan – delicious! and a
slow wander home aer watching the blue penguins at the wharf.
… finding the geocache at Harrold Bay ...

… Jan’s searching ...
… at your convenience ... … a bush tunnel ...
… getting the view from the house ...
… lighthouse in the bush ...
… looking north at Harrold Bay ...
… scraping off the hook grass ...

… looking in at Ackers Point lookout ...
… lunch at Harrold Bay ...
… “there’s a geocache on that island” ...
… along a rough track ...
… to Ringaringa Road ... … walk along Ringaringa Beach ...

… signing of the log ...
… Wohler’s monument ...
v
… roadside reflections ...
… walking along Evening Beach ...

… water wheel sculpture ...
… a paved track ...
… with a seat for resting ...
… but it has steps ...
… to enjoy the views ...

… the wind strength increases ...

Horseshoe Point

Day 3 – Monday
We turned the other way this morning, heading up
the hill on our way to Horseshoe Point. A pleasant
walk in the early morning sun following the road
alongside beauful beaches towards the track
around the peninsular.
Moturau Moana, a small botanic garden at the
beginning of the track is a peaceful area with great
views over Halfmoon Bay. Connuing along to Bragg
Bay – another stunning beach – we climb upwards to
the Bragg Cemetery with its history of past
inhabitants.
Through the bush, eventually descending a long set
of stairs onto Dead Man Beach – yet another
picturesque beach – where we stopped for a tea
break. Jan found a set of boules under an adapted
fishing buoy but no game followed.
Onto the trail eventually coming onto the cleared trig
staon at Horseshoe Point. Here you needed to be
selecve about where you sat and rested as the wind
was increasing and quite strong out of the shelter.
We followed the track around the northern side of
Horseshoe Bay to the main road, then turned
towards home. A long winding hill for the first
secon but fortunately someone had provided a seat
for resng near the top. Even had a phone on the
tree but no-one answered.
Bragg Bay

… into the morning light ...
… the winding road to Butterfield Beach ...
v
roadside reflections ...
… is this the entrance to the Botanical Gardens? ...
Dead Man Beach

… the cemetery at Bragg Beach ...
… overlooking Sarah Cove to Bragg Point...
… morning tea at Dead Man Beach ...
… a rest at Horseshoe Point trig ...
… and back to the bush to Horseshoe Bay ... … towards Horseshoe Bay ...

… steps down to the beach ...
… Horseshoe Bay ...
… Jan finds some boules ...
… the winding road home ...
… making the trunk call ...

Golden Bay Track

Day 4 – Tuesday
Threatening skies today. Jan and Helen went early to
Ulva Island as they were booked to embark on the
Rakiura Walk from Wednesday.
The remaining crew had a leisurely start to the day,
heading across the island towards Golden Bay. Our
route took us along the Fuchsia Walk trail onto the
rugby grounds (where the elusive kiwi are rumoured
to appear) then down the Raroa Track, eventually
exing at the juncon to the Golden Bay track.
We walked along to Thule Bay (while Warwick
disappeared for a geocache), then returned to
Golden Bay and wandered to the ferry jey.
Once Warwick rejoined us we made our way along
the bush trail that followed the shoreline – well
above it with good views through the gaps – of
Golden Bay and Deep Bay, ending up at the same
point as our first trek.
Up through the sealed track and down to the resul
gardens again and home.
Golden Bay

… getting ready for the day ...
… up the trail to Fuchsia Walk ...
… bridges across streams ...

… trees avoiding the steps ...
… Warwick searches for the geocache ..
… looking back to Golden Bay ...
… plenty of steps ...
… a place to rest and enjoy the view ...
… more steps ...

Ulva Island

Day 5 – Wednesday
Jan and Helen departed this morning for the Rakiura
Walk. We accompanied them for a short way unl
they turned towards Fern Gully, while we went over
the island on the road to meet the ferry for Ulva
Island. The ferry is a real contradicon – captained
by ‘southern man’ complete with black singlet and
jandals and the official ckets “one per person to be
presented individually” hand printed on leaves – the
best of recyclable!
The island has many paths through the northern
secon so aer a few minutes plong a somewhat
circular route we headed towards Boulder Beach.
Plenty of birdsong and progress was reasonably slow
as we quietly walked the track, stopping frequently
as the birds descended to our level. The robins were
the most frequent visitors, showing lile fear. A
number of Kakas presented themselves and
appeared inquisive. We spied the occasional tui and
had a few saddlebacks scrapping over a female. The
bush was varied and tracks well maintained. Coupled
with the superb scenery and great weather it was a
wonderful day.
Into the main hotel for tea this evening. Most
decided that it was easier to have 2 entrees, the
most popular choice being the seafood chowder.
Delicious!
Jetty at Ulva Island

… set for Ulva Island ...
… heading for the Great Walk ...
… the ferry approaches ...
… over the hill from Oban ...
… Boulder Beach ...

… along Sydney Cove ...

Boulder Beach

Rakiura Walk

Rakiura Walk – Wednesday – Friday
When we knew we were going to Stewart Island Jan & I made a plan – if I
would do the 3 day Rakiura Trek with her she would sign up to Geocaching
so she would get all the geocaches while we were there.
Day 1 – we squeezed everything into our packs including food, gas stove and
wet weather gear. We firstly had to do 2km through the township. Our first
stop was at Kaipipi Bay for a brief snack. North Arm Hut was the desnaon
and were pleased to get there by early aernoon.
Day 2 – We set off knowing it would be our hardest day (6 hours to Port
William Hut ), and rain was threatening. There were lots of steps and plenty
of mud. We stopped at a scenic river for lunch, seeing some historic boilers
on the way. We found friendly people at the huts and our food worked well.
… fallen trees to duck under ...
Day 3 – Our last trek out along Maori Beach where we met the BlueTops
group and had our photo taken at the chain sculpture to celebrate
compleon.
… geocaches to find ...
… bridges to cross ...
… steps to climb ...
… finding and welcoming the geocache huts at atthe Harrold end Bay ...
...

… early morning views ... … evening calm ...
… rissotto for dinner ...
… shaded paths ...
… views from Port William ...
… the swing bridge to cross ...

… crossing Wide Creek ...
Day 6 – Thursday
The weather’s the opposite today – drizzling! Off down
the road to see the local medical for Alison who gets
loaded up with puffers and steroids – we even get a
ride home in the ambulance. The others take me out
to visit the museum and picture theatre. A pleasant
relaxing day for all.
Down to the fish and chip cart for tea again, although
we were beer prepared with our own tomato sauce.
A few newspapers kept the packet hot to transport
back to the house for eang with Alison – had the
advantage of some fresh bread for the chip bues!
… the end of the track at Lee Bay ...
… red sky at night - walking to Maori Beach tomorrow ...

Maori Beach

Day 7 – Friday
Terry & Sheena head off this morning for the trip
home to aend their granddaughter’s wedding.
We had arranged to meet Jan & Helen as they
completed the last day walk of the track, meeng at
Maori Beach (maybe). The entry to the track was
nearly 5km from Kereru House so a ride was
arranged with the local taxi, fortunately the depot
being just below the house. A few minutes later
we’re in the early morning calm at Lee Bay.
… beginning at Lee Bay ...
Everyday has been filled with spectacular scenery
and walks yet today’s trek surpasses these.
Beauful beaches, glimpses through the bush, the
bush itself culminang in the broad sweep of Maori
Beach. The constant steps up and down on the
track were irrelevant with the rewards we received,
the bonus being the young deer on the trail grazing
– he didn’t seem too bothered about us.
Our ming was right, meeng the trampers as they
progressed along the beach.
Lunch at Lee Bay on the return then the long trek
home around Horseshoe Bay and the road to Oban,
although some dedicated geocachers climbed the
hill to Garden Mound to claim another prize.
… through the chain sculpture ...
… towards Peters Point ...

… the first glimpse of Maori Beach ...
… the Great Walk travellers return ...

… deer on the track ... ...
… the muddy section ...
Lee Bay … lunch at Lee Bay ...

… the track begins ...

Day 8 – Saturday
Drizzly again, but fairly light. We wander along to
Fern Gully but the track is obstructed by fallen trees.
We found an alternate path through the bush and
eventually entered the main clearing. The return
journey seemed to aract the rain as it became
steadier, so me to head back home.
Fern Gully
… blockage on the track ... … a seat with a view ...

Day 9 – Sunday
Packing up me, clean out and
we’re down to the terminal for a
flight to Invercargill. A fine day but
the wind was cold.
We enjoy coffee at the hotel and a
comfortable seat in the lounge, the
sun pouring through the windows -
but no wind! We soon leave the
island arriving at Invercargill to
pick up the rental van and sele
into the accommodaon, just out
of the city centre. A large, older
house with plenty of rooms.
Having assessed the requirements
it’s off to Pak ‘n Save for supplies.
Pre-cooked chicken for tea and a
period of relaxaon and exploring
the local area.
… sorting the leftovers ...
… we meet the former westie ...
… from the Duke of Edinburgh driving school? ...
… all my bags are packed ...
… vegetable salad for tea ...
… that completes the roast ...

Tuatapere

Day 10 – Monday
We head out towards Tuatapere to revisit an eclecc
coffee shop operated by an elderly couple of ladies.
We called into some lookout points along the coast –
fine but windy – arriving at our desnaon just in me
for coffee - except the store is closed and up for sale!
We wandered the village – art gallery, food store, and
sausage supplier – then headed further west towards
the coast at Bluecliffs Beach. A short walk onto a very
pebbly beach where we enjoyed lunch and the usual
search for the many treasures that line the shores.
… plenty of choices ...
Wandering back along the coast road we ventured
down a rough track to the river mouth, discovering a
large patch of succulent blackberries. With the empty
lunch boxes replenished with fresh fruit we headed
back to the main road to Invercargill.
Plenty of lile excursions into the small bays –
Gemstone Beach, Monkey Island, Cosy Nook – all
different and providing a chance to search for rocks
and geocaches.
A delicious blackberry pie is on the menu aer
stopping at the store for pastry and cream.
… so many to choose ...
… Jan finds a friend ...

… foraging for blackberries ...
… incoming tide at Monkey Island - geocache not retrieved...
… driftwood sculptures ...
… a search with a view ...
… I’m sure it’s under here ...

Bluff

Day 11 – Tuesday
Off to Bluff today. First port of call though is the Doctor’s surgery to dose up
Alison with inhalers and steroids. Re-armed with medicaons we call into
the Greenpoint reserve for a short walk to the ship’s graveyard (and a few
geocaches).
Into Bluff township for a coffee at the art gallery then the big climb – for the
van – up Bluff hill. Very windy, as expected, and threatening showers
although the views were great.
We returned and had lunch at Srling Point lighthouse before going the ½
kilometer to the end of SH1. A short walk down the track where we
encountered an ecstac English guy who was just compleng the 3000km
North Cape to Bluff walk.
… ships graveyard at Greenpoint ...
Heading home we called into the estuary walk at the edge of town.
Jan, Helen and Warwick went off to the café for dinner and the geocaching
meeng that Helen had arranged.
… Bluff entrance towards Tiwai Point ...
… communal searching ...
… finding a selfie the in the geocache wind ...
at Harrold Bay ...

Day 12 – Wednesday
A cool and drizzly morning so we
decide to walk around Queen’s Park
and explore the delights of
Invercargill. There were walks in the
Botanical Gardens, the Japanese
Garden and aviary, and even a large
disused Gallery, the only part of
which was sll funconing housed
some Tuatara.
Aer lunch we enjoyed free me in
Invercargill proper, exploring the
history and enjoying the World’s
Fastest Indian and large display of
motorcycles and classic cars at
Hayes Hardware store – Nice to find
an old fashioned shop.
Queens Park

… walking tracks in the park ...
… the Japanese Garden ...
… Jan finds another friend ...
… Tuatara hiding in the enclosure ...
… the Munro Indian ... … Invercargill Council Chambers ...

Oreti Beach
… a blustery beach walk ...

Day 12 – Thursday
Final day today. We pack up and clean the house, then
take a leisurely day locally exploring the peninsular to
the south of the airport. A walk on Ore Beach (but no
fast Indians), and wandering along the other side
roads.
Back to the airport for our evening flight to
Christchurch and Auckland.
Oreti Beach
… more treasures at Oreti River mouth ... … coming to the end ...