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Stella McCartney Brand Book

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BY SHAUNA CURRAN




STELLA McCARTNEY

Progress . . .

6


TABLE OF CONTENTS

8-41

9

14

19

27

29

30

42-75

44

52

58

63

72

76-85

78

80

82

86

SUSTAINABILITY

Stella McCartney: Agent of Change

Headliner: Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney: Everything is at Stake

Stella McCartney: Activist

#StellaMcCartneyTodayForTomorrow

Stella McCartney: Innovator

GOOD DESIGN

Stella McCartney: Designer

Stella McCartney Pre-Fall 2020

We are the Weather Collection

Stella McCartney Cares Pink

Stella McCartney: Interior Designer

THE AFTERLIFE

Stella McCartney: Loop Lab

Thrifting: Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney: Mission Sustainable

REFERENCES

7


STELLA McCARTNEY

8


ABOUT

STELLA McCARTNEY

AGENT OF CHANGE

Inspired by her parents and equipped with an uncompromising

passion to create a future that is environmentally friendly

and beautifully designed, Stella McCartney is the face

of innovation and activism in sustainable fashion.

Stella McCartney is a creative, a scientist, a tech entrepreneur

and a farmer all rolled into one. “It’s fascinating because I grew

up on an organic farm and now what I do for a living really

is farming,” she says. “And I think that that’s something that

people don’t really realize —that in fashion design, we’re actually

just farming the land, but instead of making a veggie patty

out of it, we’re making a jacket. That connection is something

that I find really inspiring and challenging. It just drives me”.

Today, Stella McCartney is known as one of the most innovative

designers of our generation. A vocal vegetarian and animal

rights activist like her parents, Stella decided at the age of

12, when she set her sights on being a fashion designer, never

to use leather, fur, or feathers in her creations. For a luxury

fashion designer to turn her back on leather is like a guitarist

boycotting the C chord. A large share of the luxury industry’s

profits come from leather shoes and bags, usually as gateway

purchases for customers whose budgets wouldn’t normally

stretch to ready-to-wear.

McCartney credits her initial interest in conscious living to

her upbringing. She was raised on an organic farm in East

Sussex, England, where she says she “understood the elements”:

nature, seasons, animals. “It’s just how I’ve always looked at the

Earth,” she explains. “I didn’t have the conventions or baggage

that most other generations have had. My parents broke that

rule of ‘You have to eat meat. You’re gonna die if you don’t eat

meat.’” Her vegetarian parents were outspoken animal rights

activist. In the ‘80s and ‘90s, her mother Linda co-authored

cookbooks with meatless recipes and developed her own line of

vegetarian frozen meals. In 1999, PETA’s first Linda McCartney

Memorial Award was presented by Paul McCartney to Pamela

Anderson. On her upbringing, McCartney said “what kid

doesn’t love growing up in a field, with sheep around, or riding

a horse, or watching dragonflies? Those are my best memories

as a child. More so than going on a private jet to Brazil to go

and see a gig with 20,000 people”.

McCartney studied Fashion Design at the prestigious Central

Saint Martins design school, in London. In 1995, the graduate

show involved eight looks, each requiring footwear. “I worked

really hard at that,” she recalls. “It was hard enough to find

someone to make shoes with no minimums. When you’re a student,

it’s virtually impossible.” But McCartney searched until

she found a shoemaker willing to help make her eight pairs in

animal-friendly fabrics to match her collection.

The show was a sensation. McCartney asked her friends Kate

Moss and Naomi Campbell, who happened to also be the most

famous supermodels in the world, to walk the runway. Her

parents sat in the front row; her dad had composed a new song

for the occasion. The show made the pages of the New York

Times. Her father and Campbell were quoted. Stella was not.

The shoes and the clothes didn’t even get a mention. But that’s

not the point of the story. The point is: she didn’t compromise

her values. She found a way to make the shoes.

Left: Stella McCartney for Net-a-Porter.

Top: Stella, Amsterdam, 1989.

9


STELLA McCARTNEY

McCartney didn’t compromise again when, two years later, she was appointed

creative director of the struggling Paris fashion house, Chloé. She was 25

years old. She didn’t even compromise when the entire industry criticized her

appointment. Karl Lagerfeld said, “I think they should have taken a big name.

They did, but in music, not fashion”. She didn’t compromise when, having

revived Chloé’s fortunes, reportedly quadrupling sales in the process, she left

Paris in 2001 to set up her own label in 50-50 partnership with the Gucci (now

Kering) group. Her friend, designer Tom Ford, once gave her a tour of his

studio, extolling every kind of dead-animal skin, trying to change her mind.

That didn’t work either.

In fact, she redoubled her efforts, appearing in campaign videos about the

cruelty of the leather and fur business. As she learned about the further environmental

impacts of the fashion industry, such as global textiles production emitting

1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases annually, she set herself stringent

sustainability targets, like using organic cotton, avoiding endangered forests,

and reducing her use of oil-based synthetics. In 2018, Stella amicably split from

Kering Group giving her full ownership of the House of Stella McCartney and

allowing for further exploration and innovations in sustainability.

The Stella McCartney brand mission now states, “we are agents of change. We

challenge and push boundaries to make luxurious products in a way that is fit

for the world we live in today and the future: beautiful and sustainable. No

compromises.” They make every decision as a symbol of their determination

to defining the possibilities for the future of fashion and do this by never using

leather or fur, pioneering new alternative materials, utilizing cutting edge

technologies, pushing towards circularity, protecting ancient and endangered

forests, and measuring their impact with ground-breaking tools.

Most importantly, Stella McCartney disguises sustainability as practical and

contemporary fashion. As a designer, McCartney lives and dies on the desirability

of her creations. “That’s my job, first and foremost. If I don’t design things

that are desirable, and sexy, and a must-have for people, then it just ends up in

landfill anyway” she said. Her lines include women and men’s ready-to-wear,

lingerie, accessories, eyewear, fragrance, and children’s wear. But she is best

known for her womens wear and accessories.

Understanding the needs of her customers and of women in general is inherent

to McCartney’s appeal. House codes range from masculine (she trained on

Savile Row) to playfully feminine (silky slip dresses, lace, flouncy hemlines).

There are urban elements (city-slicker suiting and the cult Falabella bag with

its chain hardware) and countrified motifs (horses, florals, summer sandals).

“MY EARLIEST MEMORIES ARE OF

LOOKING AT THE WARDROBE THAT

MY MOM AND DAD SHARED AND

SEEING THEIR CLOTHES BLEND

SEAMLESSLY INTO EACH OTHER”

It is this understanding and appreciation for

the multifaceted lives of modern women, with

their contrasting personalities and refusal to

be pigeon-holed, that has given the brand that

much sought-after quality: longevity.

Her past also plays a role. “A lot of my masculine/feminine

stuff comes from the observations

I had as a young child,” she says.

“My earliest memories are of looking at the

wardrobe that my mom and dad shared and

seeing their clothes blend seamlessly into each

other. He wore Savile Row and she wore Savile

Row… There was a real blurring of the

lines.” Natural, carefree, and spontaneous,

McCartney’s campaigns always portray a similar

woman, with an environmental message

weaved in.

For McCartney, the design process often starts

with a material as it does aesthetic inspiration,

like a song, an image, an emotion, a silhouette.

That is in part a result of working with

such stringent self-imposed limitations. “For

example we don’t use PVC, which a lot of

other houses do,” says McCartney. (Polyvinyl

chloride, a plastic used in shoes, outerwear

and details like sequins, is highly toxic.) “So

when I go, ‘I want a lot of sequins this season,’

everyone else has this many …” —she spreads

her hands, shoulder-width apart —“… whereas

I have this many”—a hair’s breadth. “so then

your challenge creatively is how can I make

the most of that?”

10


ABOUT

Nicole Rycroft, Canopy’s executive director

said, “when it comes to sustainability, she is

lapping other designers”. “Stella was the first

brand to cancel a contract with a viscose brand

because it was using an endangered forest. She

was the first real recognizable global designer

to adopt Canopy. The thing that impresses

me most about Stella the person is: she walks

the talk. As a result of that, 160 brands have

followed suit.”

The racks of a Stella McCartney store are a

pageant of luxurious deception: beautiful,

buttery “leather” jackets and bags made from

a fabric it calls Skin-Free-Skin (polyester

and polyurethane, coated with vegetable oil)

hang alongside leopard-print Fur-Free-Fur

(spun from organic fibres). Pumps glisten in

seemingly every skin imaginable. It’s I Can’t

Believe It’s Not Butter! for dead things. For

McCartney, deceiving her customer is the

highest praise. “I relish the thought that 99

percent of our customers come in here, and

they see the Stan Smith, and they haven’t got a

clue it’s a vegetarian shoe,” she says. Because if

customers can’t tell the difference, then there’s

no reason to continue with cruel or unsustainable

fashion. Some of her most notable designs

have developed as a result of her environmental

values and innovation including the 2017

gold shift dress made with Microsilk; the 2018

special edition of McCartney’s bestselling Falabella

handbag made from mushroom leather;

and in 2020 Stella McCartney announced the

first biodegradable denim collection.

“I RELISH THE THOUGHT THAT 99 PER

CENT OF OUR CUSTOMERS COME

IN HERE, AND THEY SEE THE STAN

SMITH, AND THEY HAVEN’T GOT A

CLUE IT’S A VEGETARIAN SHOE”

Images (top to bottom):

1. Stella with mother, Linda, and father, Paul, in 1974.

2. Paul, Stella and James. Scotland, 1982.

3. Stella and James. Scotland, 1982.

4. Heather, Paul and Linda McCartney, with Stella (4), and Mary

(6), at home in London on April 4th, 1976.

11


STELLA McCARTNEY

“WE WANT TO BE THE HOUSE OF TECHNOLOGY”

More recently, recycling and circularity have become an obsession

with McCartney. Leading to products such as the loop

shoe, which has a glue-less design making it recyclable in its

entirety. It’s an innovation that you might expect from a global

sneaker giant or a Silicon Valley startup, rather than a luxury

fashion house. “There’s a lot of shoe companies that haven’t

done this because maybe they didn’t have the idea, which for

us is based in sustainability. The starting point is not design,

the starting point is sustainability.” To further circularity, Stella

has also formed partnerships with consignment stores like The

RealReal, encouraging re-selling and re-using of luxury goods

to keep them out of landfills.

Looking forward Stella McCartney says, “we want to be the

house of technology”. The company has recently sponsored

Central Saint Martins’ Material Futures degree course, and

the animal rights charity Peta’s Bio design Challenge, a global

competition to find eco-conscious materials. “Technology is,

for me, the future of the conversation that we started in the

fashion industry a very, very long time ago.”

The book outlines Stella McCartney’s values and approach to

fashion, starting with sustainability and technological innovation

in design, followed by the importance of good quality

design, and ending with circularity and the afterlife of Stella

McCartney products and brand.

Top: Model Ana Claudia Michels in Stella McCartney

Spring 2002 Ready-to-Wear.

Bottom: Model Kukua William in Stella McCartney Fall

2020 Ready-to-Wear.

12


“THE STARTING POINT IS NOT DESIGN, THE

STARTING POINT IS SUSTAINABILITY”

—STELLA McCARTNEY

Progress . . .

13


STELLA McCARTNEY

Stella McCartney goes wild to drive home animal-free message

Stella McCartney and Adidas unveil circular garments

Is Stella McCartney the Queen of Sustainability?

Stella McCartney pens an urgent letter to the fashion industry

Stella McCartney Is Looking for Green-Minded Collaborators to Radically Shake Things Up

Earth mother: How Stella McCartney became fashion’s conscience

Stella McCartney: ‘Everything is at Stake’

‘I Am A Fighter, And I Am A Rebel’ - Stella McCartney Is Not Done Fighting for The Planet

Stella McCartney pens an urgent letter to the fashion industry

Stella McCartney: The Designer Who Made Luxury Sustainable

Stella McCartney is teaming up with the UN to clean up fashion

ON A QUEST TO SAVE YOU FROM THE FASHION IND

Stella McCartney: Environmental Crusader

STELLA ‘I Am A Fighter, MCCARTNEY And I Am IS A Rebel’ TEAMING - Stella UP McCartney WITH THE Is Not UN Done TO CLEAN Fighting UP for The FASHION Planet

How Google Cloud and Stella McCartney aim to make fashion more sustainable

FASHION DESIGNER STELLA MCCARTNEY CALLS ON CONSUMERS TO PROTECT THE PLANET

Stella McCartney calls for more action on sustainability

FASHION INDUSTRY

Stella McCartney: The Designer Who Made Luxury Sustainable

HEADLINER

:STELLA McCARTNEY

Stella McCartney is teaming up with the UN to clean up fashion

Stella McCartney: Environmental Crusader

STELLA MCCARTNEY IS TEAMING UP WITH THE UN TO CLEAN UP FASHION

Stella McCartney Slams Fast Fashion as a Threat to the Environment

Stella McCartney Slams Fast Fashion as a Threat to the Environment

How Google Cloud and Stella McCartney aim to make fashion more sustainable

FASHION DESIGNER STELLA MCCARTNEY CALLS ON CONSUMERS TO PROTECT THE PLANET

Stella McCartney calls for more action on sustainability

Stella McCartney pens an urgent letter to the fashion industry

Stella McCartney Is Weaving A New Way Forward

Stella McCartney is pioneering synthetic spider silk in high fashion

Stella McCartney Slams Fast Fashion as a Threat to the Environment

Stella McCartney becomes first designer to cover Vogue

Stella McCartney Is Weaving A New Way Forward

VEGAN DESIGNER STELLA MCCARTNEY LAUNCHES NEW CRUELTY-FREE COLLECTION

Stella McCartney is pioneering synthetic spider silk in high fashion

“I Need a Few More Colleagues Linking My Arm”—Stella McCartney Sounds Off on Sustainability, Faux Leather, and the Lack of Honesty Around Both

STELLA MCCARTNEY IS TEAMING UP WITH THE UN TO CLEAN UP FASHION

14


ABOUT

Is Stella McCartney the Queen of Sustainability?

SUT

A

S

A I N

BI

TY L

I

SUSTAINABILITY

noun [suh·stey·nuh·bil·i·tee]

Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future

generations to meet their own needs.

The quality of not being harmful to the environment or depleting natural

resources, and thereby supporting long-term ecological balance.

15


STELLA McCARTNEY

adjective [cru·el·ty·free]

CRUELTY-FREE

Developed without being tested on animals.

VEGAN DESIGNER STELLA McCARTNEY LAUNCHES NEW CRUELTY-FREE COLLECTION

At Stella McCartney this means: no leather, no fur, no skins, no feathers. Even the glues used

in their shoes or bags does not come from animal origins.

Their products are not tested on animals. COTY produce vegan perfumes as a licensee of Stella

McCartney beauty products. They follow and respect a very strict ethical charter. All their

fragrances are vegan friendly, which means that no ingredient is tested on animals or comes

from animal origins, including bees.

Stella McCartney stands by their ethics regarding animal testing. That’s why we they do not

sell their fragrances in China where government regulations require animal testing. They hope

that by promoting these values other fragrance licensees of COTY will follow and say no to

animal testing.

16


CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY

CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY

CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY

CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY

CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY

ABOUT

CIRCULARITY

adjective [sur·kyuh·larr·uh·tee]

A circular economy is based on the principles of designing out

waste and pollution, keeping products and materials in use,

and regenerating natural systems.

Stella McCartney and Adidas unveil circular garments

17


STELLA McCARTNEY

Amber Valetta for Stella McCartney

Winter 2019 Campaign.

18


SUSTAINABILITY

STELLA McCARTNEY

EVERYTHING IS AT STAKE

The designer, who has been leading the charge for sustainable

practices in fashion, revealed her plans for the industry to work

towards a more ethical future.

A lifelong vegetarian who founded her cruelty-free

namesake brand in 2001, Stella McCartney has

been in the game of ethical fashion long before it

was trending. Now, she is using her platform as

a designer and businesswoman to implore others

to follow in her footsteps. At VOICES 2018 she

revealed the launch of a UN charter for climate

action within the fashion industry, which delineates

16 commitments for lessening fashion’s impact

on the environment.

McCartney also revealed her latest charitable initiative

“Stella McCartney Cares Green,” which

aims to empower students, professionals and businesses

to embrace sustainable and ethical practices.

It will work towards influencing change

among policymakers too. This call to action was

underscored by an appeal to the collective responsibility

of those in fashion. “It’s really about

bringing everyone together as an industry,” she

said. “Actually, taking responsibility, putting our

money where our mouth is and making an amazing

change together.”

The following interview with Lucy Siegle has been

transcribed and shortened from the Business of

Fashion podcast. Follow the QR code to listen to

the full interview.

1

“LUXURY IS HAVING A VOICE, HAVING FREEDOM, HAVING

CLEAN AIR TO BREATH, HAVING ANIMALS BY OUR SIDE

THAT ARE HAPPY AND HEALTHY AND TREATED WELL,

HAVING PURE WATER TO DRINK, AND HAVING THE LUXU-

RY OF HAVING MOTHER NATURE AND PLANET EARTH IN A

HEALTHY STATE”

SIEGLE

So we are virtually on the eve of COP24 and we traditionally

say these are historic occasions but it feels like monumental

would be more appropriate. We have a job to do and what we

know is when the political dialogue starts, we see policy makers,

politicians negotiating with the evidence. But you can’t

negotiate with the science, it needs to inform what we do. I’m

really delighted that we have a true leader here who knows you

don’t negotiate with the science but you use it to form a consolidated

response that closes

the gap between the ambition

that we need for future

generations because that’s

what’s at stake here and what

our response is as an industry.

So, let’s hear from Stella

McCartney, who’s basically

been doing it for 17 years,

leading this charge, and I’m

sure it must be lonely out in

front, so this is an opportunity

for the whole industry

to come together.

McCARTNEY

Firstly, hi everyone and thank you for having me. You know

we can’t run away from it. The reality is we are all faced with

this problem now. We are all going to suffer the consequences

if we do not take action in a positive way. We need to live in

harmony with planet earth, we need to live in harmony with

our fellow creatures, and we need to be respectful of everything

that she gives us. I mean she is like the gift that keeps

on giving if we can allow her to. So, we have everything really,

everything is at stake.

In Poland, on the 10th of December, the UN will unveil the

charter that has come together with over 20 industry leaders,

hard hitters, and that’s really what it needs. It needs more

than just my voice and some smaller institutions working on

this subject matter it really needs leaders to come together and

work as a force that can change policy and create laws and

legislations. They’re working on 16 commitments that we will

all hopefully adhere to. We are here to get people to sign up

to join because everyone’s voice matters and its really exciting,

it’s really about bringing everyone together as an industry and

instead of having a few people talk about it [sustainability], it’s

about having everyone talk about it, and it’s the leaders that

make the change at the sourcing, manufacturing and, design

[levels]. Then actually taking responsibility, putting our money

where our mouth is and making an amazing change together.

19


STELLA McCARTNEY

2SIEGLE

McCARTNEY

That’s an amazing rally and cry and just to light the fire further,

unless we decarbonize rapidly by 2050, this industry will

be responsible for ¼ or all carbon emissions and people will

not thank us for that.

I want to talk to you a little bit about your own brand because

obviously there’s been a conscious uncoupling with Kering,

if I can put it like that, and you were very much the poster

brand for environmental change under the house of Kering.

How does that affect your future going forward and your commitment

to sustainability? You probably don’t like that word

do you.

I love that word! I don’t think enough people really know what

it means. My commitment is at the core of my sort of birth

right if you like, and it’s at the core of everyone that works at

Stella McCartney as much as desirability and luxury in fashion,

we care. We do have that awful word that seems to be a

bit weird right now, we do have authenticity in our just basic

care for the planet and how we conduct ourselves in a more

conscious way in business. So that’s not going to change.

Imagine if I said I’m just going to stop and I’m going to make

plastic bottles. No, so we are fully committed to sustainability.

The Environmental Profit and Loss Index that we worked on

with Kering will continue and what we actually are working

on now is going deeper into that, because that was an amazing

source of data and finding out our impact on what we were

making and actually what that impact had on the planet. But

what we were getting was sort of wide information, so it didn’t

necessarily always apply to us and it wasn’t completely tailored

or personalized to us as a house. What we’re doing now is really

forming our own data and talking to our own supply chain and

our own sourcing and really tailoring it to our needs, so we get

a clearer idea of our impact.

[Reducing] greenhouse gases, is something we are very committed

to. That’s something that we can sort of talk about

with connection to the charter. Disclosing information and

having complete transparency is really important to us at Stella

McCartney. I think it’s something that has to become more

important to everybody in every industry quite frankly. And,

you know, manning up about the things we need help on because

we’re not perfect, some things we do have to do more

conventionally but the commitment there will be forever.

3

SIEGLE

You are doing some really ambitious stuff though that kind of

makes my heart sing as a nerdish ecologist, like regenerative

agriculture becoming part of your fashion landscape.

McCARTNEY

Yea! We are working really hard on regenerative agriculture.

You know, I grew up on an organic farm, we had arable farms,

and it’s funny because I now look at what I’m doing and I’m

like we’re basically farmers in the fashion industry. We’re just

kind of using soil, using land, cutting down forest, but we’re

not really putting back what we’re taking out. So, at Stella Mc-

Cartney we’re working very deeply on that. Obviously organic

cotton is a must for us but cotton is the biggest used material

in the fashion industry so you can go to that level, but the next

level and the most important level is the soil.

Basically, soil is the biggest creator of oxygen on the planet,

second to the sea. It’s a terrestrially, it’s the biggest creator of

carbon. So, we’re looking very intensely at our sourcing and

how we put nutrients back into the soil, how we take care of

that, how to avoid the dust and the soot. It’s really important

to farm in the proper way because it creates more and better-quality

oxygen.

4

SIEGLE

You know this is a whole new world isn’t it? Fashion, farming,

can you see that you’ll be calling on soil biologists to be part

of your team before long?

McCARTNEY

I mean we do, the thing is, and it comes back to the charter,

we have to work as a team because I can’t do it all alone and I

have to work with the people we source from. We do it [work

with soil biologists and farmers] so much at Stella McCartney.

We spent two years working on viscose, for example. Over

150 million trees a year are cut down for viscose alone in the

fashion industry. These are from our rain forests; this is a huge

disaster not only for the planet and environment but also for

the inhabitants of the rain forest which we tend to forget. At

Stella McCartney, what we’ve done for many years now, is work

with the sourcing, getting sustainable forestry that we can work

with, taking the yarn, which is a completely different quality,

to our mills, the same luxury mills we all want to use in luxury

fashion, in Italy and all around the world, and giving them an

alternative yarn. It’s taken over two years to get a quality that

we are happy with. You know we are probably the only one in

the [fashion] industry using that viscose and it’s crazy! I think

that’s where I find hope with this idea of coming together for

the charter. I want to share that information and I don’t want

to have to do it alone.

5

SIEGLE

Let’s talk about this other new initiative that you’re here to

announce as well, the launch of Stella McCartney Cares Green.

We already have Stella McCartney Cares Pink and now we

have Green. Just explain what the components are and what

change that’s going to bring?

McCARTNEY

We launched Stella McCartney Cares Pink in October, which

is part of the arm of our charity that focuses on breast cancer

and breast cancer awareness. We designed a double mastectomy

bra a couple years ago and my big goal was to give them

away to everybody free, and actually in the first day, all of the

bras that we had went! Which is a great sign that we have that

reach that we can tell people about things, but also incredibly

depressing at the same time.

So, what we’re going to launch here today is the environmental

side of the foundation which is basically here to open source

and have a conversation on everything that we’ve studied and

spent so much time and love and energy learning about on

environmental issues in the fashion industry. I want to open

up that conversation and open up the information because I

think that there is so much confusion around what sustainably

means and what it means in the fashion industry, the second

most harmful [industry] on the planet, and how to get that

kind of conversation opening up by giving incentives.

It’s something that I find really strange about what I do, you

know my incentives have always been personal and I was always

pretty privileged to be able to not compromise in the way

that I went into the fashion industry and ran my business. But

I think trying to create some incentives like scholarships will

20


SUSTAINABILITY

give incentives to new up and coming designers. At the same

time, technology is really important to us so really talking

about how technology can be the way forward and how sexy

that is. I guess one of the things I’m most excited about is the

idea of creating some kind of fund for lawyers and NGOs, so

actually encouraging policy change because unless we have

that, really, there’s only so much you can do and that comes

hand in hand with the idea of incentives. I can get taxed up

to 30% just for taking a non-leather good into America for

example, and it’s like why should I be punished in a sense for

not killing animals and for not using the chemicals that turn

the leathers? It should be the other way around.

6

SIEGLE

I find this really exciting because … when you look through

different lenses, by working with lawyers or farmers or biologists,

you suddenly see a lot of remedies that weren’t available

to you before. And, of course, this picks up grass roots action.

This is you saying we are not going to put up with these unfair

laws and it’s a very challenging position to adopt.

McCARTNEY

Yea, I guess we’ve never really done things by the rule book at

Stella McCartney. We’re trying to change things and I think

the entire conversation is about change in the right direction.

I can only do so much, but if I can have policies change and

have politicians actually look at this issue and look at taxation,

look at import, look at export, look at China, for example.

In China you still have to test on animals to bring in a beauty

product. I don’t sell any of my perfumes into China and nobodies

having that conversation. All of the big brands in beauty

that go into China are testing on animals. Now, if they all

said ‘no’, if they all wanted to, we can have such a strong and

powerful voice. I think that it can happen, and it can happen

now. This is amazing that we’re even having this conversation.

You know this is happening now and I really see it. After all

these years I’m so excited and encouraged and I think it is the

time for change!

7

SIEGLE

So, you’re feeling hopeful? Because we’ve got a lot of doom and

gloom around us, especially going into COP24, we’re worried

about keeping to 1.5 [degree Celsius global warming this century].

We have a president in America who willfully doesn’t

know the difference between climate and weather. You know

we are in this situation; we are where we are, but your still

feeling hopeful and like we can push through?

McCARTNEY

Yea, I mean he [President Trump] is watching this right now,

should we say hi? Come on, you can do it!

I have to be hopeful; we all have to be hopeful. It’s the way I’m

wired, and I couldn’t do what I do if I didn’t have some kind

of hope for the future. And I see that we can do it. I think

what’s kind of frustrating for me is that I’m not a big brand,

I’m not a loud voice, but I’ve got vegan Stan Smith’s on that I

talked Adidas into doing with me and they are a huge brand.

If they see that this [Stan Smith shoe] can be made first and

foremost and it can wear and tear as much as a leather Stan

Smith’s using animal bone and fish bone glue, then maybe

they’ll change. If I can do it, anyone can do it! I have to have

hope because there’s a lot of bigger voices out there with a lot

more money and a lot more clout behind them

8

9

Illustration by Maxwell Paternoster for Stella

McCartney’s Winter 2020 Collection.

SIEGLE

But you’re very persuasive Stella and we know that. And let’s

just have a final act of persuasion because you need everyone

here and beyond to sign up to the Charter. Don’t you?

McCARTNEY

I love that it’s me who needs it, it’s only me that needs you to

sign up. It’s basically you all need to sign up because you all

need to sign up. I mean it’s ridiculous that I’m here even needing

to have this conversation quite frankly. But it’s a positive

thing it’s an amazing thing that we’ve started a conversation,

we’ve opened up the concept that people in power in the fashion

industry can make change, they can take responsibility in

their own hands.

Consumers are critical, you know conscious consumption is

at the core of everything. If the people that make the business

decisions know that the next generation of consumers will not

stand for anything less than responsible business, then they’re

going to have to do it anyways. So, I think it’s great if everyone

takes the law into their own hands and it’s doable. We can do

it and we have 16 commitments now; we can have many more,

but this is the start.

Be part of it [the movement] guys, you’re all part of it!

SIEGLE

And it feeds directly into the Paris agreement so when your

kids and your grandkids asked you what you did you will be

able to hold your head up and make eye contact and say I was

part of this incredibly important response. I just want you to

finish on a comment to a phrase that you said to me before

which I really liked. You said that this really is the ultimate

luxury now, and this is something that young people respond

to and this is why we should see it as an opportunity.

McCARTNEY

You know it’s just all intertwined isn’t it? Many years ago,

before this was a kind of fashionable conversation to have,

people would say to me as a designer “what’s your idea of luxury?”

you’re like ‘I don’t know like a Berkin bag? I don’t know

what sort of question is that?’, but for me, my personal idea of

luxury is having a voice, having freedom, having clean air to

breath, having animals by our side that are happy and healthy

and treated well, having pure water to drink, and having the

luxury of having mother nature and planet earth in a healthy

state. That for me is the ultimate, I don’t know what other

luxury there is, other than, you know, a Falabella bag and a

pair of vegan Stan Smiths.

21


STELLA McCARTNEY

22


SUSTAINABILITY

Amber Valetta for Stella McCartney Winter 2019 Campaign.

23


STELLA McCARTNEY

24


SUSTAINABILITY

Stella McCartney Winter 2019 Campaign.

Progress . . .

25


STELLA McCARTNEY

26


SUSTAINABILITY

STELLA McCARTNEY

ACTIVIST

Ever the committed environmentalist, Stella McCartney has cast

members of the climate activist group Extinction Rebellion in her latest

campaign for winter 2019. Shot by British photographer Johnny Dufort,

members Deya Ward, Ruby Munslow and Tori Tsui appear in dreamlike

scenes along the bucolic Welsh coast, highlighting the beauty of the

natural world and driving home the importance of preserving and

protecting our planet.

As the daughter of the late activist Linda Mc-

Cartney, Stella has used her platform established

through her fashion house in 2001 to

continue the legacy her mother left behind.

Fashion is rife with faux activism and empty

ethical promises but Stella McCartney, who

has campaigned for ethical and sustainable

practices throughout her career, never fails to

blow us away with her commitment to environmental

change. Fighting

for greener fashion via her label

and by using her platform

to amplify initiatives such as

the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s

Circular Economy,

this campaign is the latest in

a long line designed to inspire

industry change.

Alongside the Extinction Rebellion activists,

American model Amber Valletta stars in the

campaign. A longtime friend of McCartney’s,

she’s devoted her career to encouraging sustainability

in fashion through partnering with

H&M on its Conscious Collection and working

with Fashion Revolution to highlight unfair

industry practices. Models Emma Laird,

Chloe Pearson, Chu Wong and Trinity Hill

—“selected for being voices for change in their

own field” —also feature.

A short film accompanying the campaign

will be revealed in September, just in time for

fashion month. In it, British environmentalist

Jane Goodall will read a poem by Jonathan

Safran Foer (whose book Eating Animals is a

vegan tome), including sentiments like: “Here

is where we are born without choosing to be

born, but then choose how to live. Here is

where we have our long moment, where we

cannot help but leave things differently than

how we found them, and have the choice to

leave things better. Here and only here are we

home.” The winter 2019 campaign will also

include a social media series called How to

Save the World, sharing small ways we can all

fight the ongoing climate crisis.

Image left: Amber Valetta for Stella McCartney

Winter 2019 Campaign.

27


STELLA McCARTNEY

“HERE & ONLY HERE WE ARE HOME”

CLICK

IMAGE!

Stella McCartney Winter 2019 Campaign Film. Narrated by Jane Goodall with powerful words by author Jonathan Safran

Foer. Starring a cast of change agents, including Extinction Rebellion and Amber Valetta, it’s a call for positive planetary

change from the beautiful Welsh coast. In a time of climate crisis, action is more important than ever.

Director: Johnny Dufort

DOP: Deepa Keshvala

Hair: Gary Gill

Make-up: Thomas De Kluyver

28


SUSTAINABILITY

GET INVOLVED!

WHAT WILL YOU DO TODAY?

#StellaMcCartneyTodayForTomorrow

WE’RE INCREDIBLY EXCITED TO BE LAUNCHING THE FIRST EVER

STELLA McCARTNEY TODAY FOR TOMORROW AWARD, CHAMPI-

ONING THE NEXT GENERATION OF YOUNG ACTIVISTS IN OUR

ONGOING FIGHT AGAINST THE CLIMATE CRISIS.

Of course, the collection itself is was much

of a commitment to change as the campaign.

Up-cycled rainbow dresses made from archival

fabric and horse-print jacquard dresses made

with sustainable viscose all feature, while all

denim is made with organic cotton. Sunglasses

are made from the brand’s biodegradable

bio-acetate and micro bags from ECONYL®

regenerated nylon.

Tori Tsui, a wildlife photographer and XR

representative who models in the campaign,

tells Vogue, “I think there is a mutual understanding

between Extinction Rebellion’s boycott

on fashion and what Stella is trying to

achieve,”. “She understands the climate crisis

and why people are frustrated [with the status

quo]. What the boycott is meant to do is tell

the story of an emergency. We know it won’t

be realistic for everyone [to stop shopping],

but if you can’t boycott fashion entirely, buy

sustainable. If you can’t go vegan, try to eat

less meat. If you can’t stop flying, then offset

your emissions,” she continues. “People like

Stella are achieving a lot just by making these

ideas more mainstream.”

“Stella is using her platform to give us a platform,

and that’s creating a conversation,” adds

Sara Arnold, an XR coordinator whose resume

includes positions at luxury fashion houses.

“That’s the great thing the fashion industry

can do—it’s one of the most polluting industries

in the world, but it’s also one of the most

influential. There are limitations on what it

can do [to address climate change], but I don’t

think there are limitations on how you can use

that platform.”

OUR SUMMER 2020 RUNWAY SHOW IS COMING UP ON SEPTEM-

BER 30TH IN PARIS, AND WE WANT USE IT AS A MOMENT TO

TALK ABOUT ALL OF THE INSPIRING ACTIVISM TAKING PLACE

ACROSS THE WORLD RIGHT NOW. THE AMOUNT OF YOUNG

PEOPLE WHO ARE FIGHTING FOR THE FUTURE OF OUR PLANET

HAS MOVED STELLA, WHICH IS WHY SHE IS LAUNCHING HER

FIRST EVER AWARD TO CELEBRATE A NEW GENERATION OF

CHANGE AGENTS AND ECO-WARRIORS UNDER 25 WHO ARE

KICKING ASS FOR MOTHER EARTH.

THE WINNER OF THE AWARD WILL RECEIVE A MENTORSHIP

PROGRAMME WITH A MEMBER OF THE TEAM AT STELLA McCA-

RTNEY HQ AND A DONATION TO THE ECO OR ANIMAL WEL-

FARE CHARITY OF THEIR CHOOSING, AS WELL AS IMPORTANT

RECOGNITION FOR THEIR VITAL WORK. BUT THIS IS NOT JUST

ABOUT AN AWARD. IT’S ABOUT ALL OF US COMING TOGETHER

LIFT UP EVERY SINGLE PERSON WHO IS MAKING A CHANGE.

EVERY ACTION COUNTS!

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO TO TAKE PART IS UPLOAD A VIDEO

TO INSTAGRAM NOMINATING YOUR CHOSEN PERSON USING

#STELLAMcCARTNEYTODAYFORTOMORROW AND TELL US WHY

THAT PERSON IS SO SPECIAL. BE SURE TO TAG THEM SO WE

CAN FIND THEM.

THE WINNER WILL BE ANNOUNCED SOON, AND WILL BE

JUDGED BY A PANEL OF INSPIRATIONAL PEOPLE. STAY TUNED

FOR MORE!

29


STELLA McCARTNEY

Stella McCartney Sustainability Campaign, 2018.

30


SUSTAINABILITY

STELLA McCARTNEY: INNOVATOR

Bio-engineered spider silk. Mushroom leather. Recycled

ocean plastics. Stella McCartney is designing the future

of clothing and the future of sustainable companies.

RE-INVENTING THE BASE

McCartney says “my intention is to create real change in an

industry that desperately needs it”. Looking ahead at the future

of fashion, McCartney collaborates with organizations like Bolt

Threads, an American biotechnology company creating the

next generation of advanced sustainable materials, and Candiani,

an Italian-based denim manufacturer known as one of

the greenest textile companies, to develop eco and sustainable

materials through technology. All of Stella McCartney’s designs

begin with materials, the following are some of her most

innovative and industry-changing materials to date.

31


STELLA McCARTNEY

32


SUSTAINABILITY

Bolt Threads Mushroom Leather.

MUSHROOM LEATHER

MYLO

In 2018, Stella McCartney and Bolt Threads unveiled a new

bio-material grown from mycelium, an underground root

structure. The first of their products to be created out of the

Mylo material was the iconic Falabella bag which was exhibited

at the Victoria & Albert’s Museum in London. The material

is still in the research and development stage but a large-scale

commercial roll-out is expected.

Mylo looks and feels like hand-crafted leather. It has a soft,

supple, natural feel, and every sheet yields unique variations

in thickness, making each product one-of-a-kind.

Mycelium is composed of billions of cells which form a 3D

mesh on a micro-scale. It forms vast networks of threads that

help recycle organic matter on the forest floor while providing

nutrients to plants and trees. The threads interweave and

self-assemble into a 3D matrix that can spread for miles. It is

vital to our ecosystem and infinitely renewable, which makes

it ideal ingredient for an innovative material like Mylo

This leather-like material is made by combining mycelium cells

with a substrate of corn stalks and nutrients. Over 10 days the

cells grow into the substrate, creating an interconnected mass

that can be made into almost any size. The quality of the resulting

material depends on factors such as environment, nutrients

and how it is tanned. Stella McCartney avoids the use of toxic

chemicals in the dying of Mylo material.

The sustainable material looks and feels like animal leather,

is supple but also strong and abrasive resistant. It grows in a

matter of weeks, compared to animal hide which takes year.

It also has better moisture management than leather. Because

Mylo is made from organic matter, it is completely biodegradable

and non-toxic.

33


STELLA McCARTNEY

34


SUSTAINABILITY

MICROSILK

MICROSILK

Stella McCartney’s dedication to innovation meant they were

always looking for new ways of bringing sustainability into

their design methods while also creating the most beautiful

product possible. This led to a partnership between Stella Mc-

Cartney and Bolt Threads in 2017.

By studying the silk that spiders make, Bolt Threads were able

to understand the relationship between spider DNA and the

characteristics of the fibres they make.

Their technology allows Bolt Threads to replicate these processes

at scale, and create a vegan silk with remarkable properties,

including high tensile strength, elasticity, durability and

softness. Microsilk, is made through a process of fermenting

water, yeast, and sugar with spider DNA. It is warmer than

wool, lightweight, and stronger than silk.

Not only is this method revolutionary, it creates cleaner, closedloop

processes for manufacturing, using green chemistry practices.

It also produces less pollution, creates long-term sustainability

and it is vegan friendly, because it is entirely made from

yeast, sugar and DNA.

While microsilk is still in the research and development stage,

Stella McCartney has used the fabric to create this dress for

the Museum of Modern art.

“On a personal and professional level, partnering with Bolt

Threads is so exciting, because it feels like everything is finally

coming together and the dots are being connected between

fashion, sustainability and tech innovation.”—McCartney.

Image top: Stella McCartney Microsilk dress sketch.

Image center: Bolt Threads Microsilk.

Image bottom: Bolt Threads x Stella McCartney Microsilk dress.

35


STELLA McCARTNEY

36


SUSTAINABILITY

BIODEGRADABLE DENIM

BIODEGRADABLE DENIM

In January 2020, Stella McCartney continued to push its commitment to sustainable fabric

innovation with the introduction of the world’s first biodegradable, stretch denim using plantbased

yarns into its collections.

The innovative denim created by Italian manufacturer Candiani will be introduced in the British

designer’s autumn/winter 2020 collection and utilizes Coreva Stretch Technology, which

is created by using organic cotton wrapped around a natural rubber cord, resulting in a fabric

that is free from plastics and micro-plastics.

By replacing the common synthetic and petrol-based elastomers with a new, custom-engineered

component, Candiani explains that it has been able to create an innovative biodegradable stretch

denim fabric without compromising elasticity.

While all Stella McCartney denim is made with 100 percent organic cotton, traditional denim

production requires a huge volume of water and toxic dyes and chemicals to create one pair of

jeans. The Coreva Stretch Technology is produced in a safe, toxic-free environment.

In addition, the fabric is made with two smart-dyeing techniques during production, explains

Candiani, that reduces the consumption of water, energy and chemicals used in the dyeing and

laundry processes.

Kitotex Vegetal is a patented biodegradable ingredient derived from mushrooms and seaweed

that is used as a replacement for sizing agents, starch, fixation agents and polyvinyl alcohol

(PVA), while Indigo Juice is used to keep the indigo superficial on the yarn.

Stella McCartney’s autumn/winter 2020 collection features 10 pieces in two styles made with

Candiani’s patented, plant-based Coreva Stretch Technology. The pieces will be available instore

and online globally from May 2020.

Stella McCartney Biodegradable Denim.

37


STELLA McCARTNEY

38


SUSTAINABILITY

RE-ENGINEERED CASHMERE

RE.VERSO

Cashmere is one of the most valuable natural materials in fashion

and Stella McCartney is helping to protect the future of

this incredible material by redefining ‘waste’.

With one decision, Stella McCartney reduced their environmental

impact related to cashmere by an incredible 92% (calculated

using the EP&L) by stopping use of virgin cashmere.

Stella McCartney’s knitwear collections are made from Re.Verso,

recycled cashmere made from post-factory cashmere waste

in Italy. This re-engineered cashmere offers the same soft, insulating

qualities as cashmere – just without the environmental

impact associated with animal rearing.

Re.Verso is the first and only platform for re-engineering cashmere

materials for fashion. Cashmere waste from factories is

sorted by hand, which requires a skilled touch to identify the

difference between a variety of different fibres. As the majority

of Re.Verso yarns are not re-dyed, the materials are sorted by

colour and fibre, before being sent for testing to ensures fibre

content and chemical safety. Re.Verso is also GRS (Global

Recycling Standard) certified which ensure that all of the recycling

steps are traceable and verified.

By using this material, Stella McCartney demonstrates their

commitment to making fashion circular, which means an industry

that is restorative and regenerative by design.

Stella McCartney for Net-a-Porter.

Progress . . .

39



Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2018 Campaign.


STELLA McCARTNEY

“IF I DON’T DESIGN THINGS THAT ARE DESIRABLE,

AND SEXY, AND A MUST-HAVE FOR PEOPLE, THEN

IT JUST ENDS UP IN LANDFILLS ANYWAY”

—STELLA McCARTNEY

42


DESIGN

Stella McCartney Pre-fall 2017 Collection.

43


STELLA McCARTNEY

STELLA McCARTNEY

DESIGNER

“Stella’s style has been influential

because she is her customer,” Tom Ford

once said of his younger colleague.

And she obviously agrees: “I’m always

designing what I want to wear,” she

told Vogue in 2004. Some of her most

noteworthy pieces include her Falabella

bag, Elyse shoes, tailored suiting, and

classic pieces made with innovative

processes and materials.

What McCartney has gravitated to over the

years is a mix of Savile Row tailoring, filmy

lingerie, sexy footwear—and a bit of slouch.

As the daughter of a Beatle, McCartney might

be rock royalty, but neither she nor her clothing

has ever stood on ceremony. “It’s not about

what it looks like in the studio or on the runway,”

the designer told WWD. “It’s what it

looks like on a real person that matters. That

isn’t easy, but it’s what’s fun.”

44


DESIGN

THE FALABELLA BAG

EST. 2010

The 100% vegan Falabella bag was launched

as part of Stella’s AW10 collection and, in a

show of serious sartorial staying power, is now

arguably the most popular non-leather handbag

style of all time.

Loved from everyone from Kate Moss to Rihanna,

it’s the rock n roll luxe vibes make it

an enduring classic.

Images: (Stella McCartney, 2020).

45


STELLA McCARTNEY

ELYSE SHOES

EST. 2014

Stella’s shoes are crafted in Italy from a combination of Polyurethane,

Polyester Viscose and Cotton. The Elyse platform

brogues launched in AW14 and are now the bestselling style

for the brand. Season after season The Elyse style has been

made into boots, sandals, sneakers and more but always with

its recognizable platform.

46


DESIGN

SUITING

EST. 2002

Images: (Stella McCartney, 2020).

Stella McCartney is known for sharp tailoring since the brand began. Combining traditional fabrics and

masculine-inspired silhouettes to create timeless tailoring with a twist. Stella’s tailored jackets and classic

trousers will see you through season after season with a natural confidence. It’s about enhancing and

supporting the modern woman throughout day-to-day routines and life on-the-go. The tailoring look is

effortless and can be worn as a seamless daytime look or up-scaled for an evening mood.

47


STELLA McCARTNEY

COLORIFIX DRESS

EST. 2018

Stella McCartney donated another one of her designs, an organic

cotton dress from the Summer 2018 collection, to the

Victoria and Albert Museum. This dress is now a collaboration

between Stella McCartney and Colorifix and became known

as the Colorifix Dress. This design was one of the first to be

sustainably dyed using Colorifix technique which combines

engineered microorganisms and DNA. By isolating the DNA

that creates colour in nature. The DNA is transferred into a

microorganism (a form of bacteria) and the microorganism is

then used to transfer the colour onto a fabric. As a result, Colorifix

use 10 times less water than traditional dyeing processes

and do not use heavy metals, organic solvents or acids.

CLICK

IMAGE!

The future of fashion: Colorifix film. Released April 18, 2018 by the

Victoria and Albert Museum.

48


DESIGN

BIO-ACETATE EYEWEAR

EST. 2019

Stella McCartney Eyewear is a natural extension of the ready-to-wear collections with a modern,

feminine and confident aesthetic. Made with bio-based materials, both sunglasses and optical

eyewear embrace the brand’s sustainable philosophy. The collection is the result of extensive

research into the use of raw materials from natural origins; over 50% of the materials used to

create the eyewear is from natural sources.

Stella McCartney’s 2019 eyewear collection in particular is made without the use of these fossil

fuels, replacing harmful Diethyl Phthalate—derived from petroleum—with innovative bio-acetate.

Made from responsibly harvested wood pulp, this is a natural, renewable and biodegradable

alternative that is better for our ecosystem and the environment. One of the many steps Stella

is taking to cut down on plastics.

CLICK

IMAGE!

The 2019 Stella McCartney Bio-Acetate Eyewear campaign film is a tongue-in-cheek perspective on fossil

fuels with a serious sustainable message.

Progress . . .

49




STELLA McCARTNEY

STELLA McCARTNEY

PRE-FALL 2020

Stella McCartney is a force of fashion. Her pioneering, environmentally

conscious practice has given the industry luxury

laced with mindfulness. “Don’t we know that fashion is trying

to bring beauty into the world?” she asked. “But at the same

time we’re trying to bring the utility side, the wearable side,

and real honesty into the conversation on how we can be more

one with all the world around us, trying to meet our passion,

bringing people together. It really comes from the heart.”

The act of dressing has so many layered meanings; and even

if we’re questioning consumerism, overproduction, and all the

damage fashion is inflicting on the planet, clothes remain powerful

vectors of emotions and memories. They have the power

to cheer us up, to soothe and seduce. “That’s why I wanted to

bring the emotional side back into the collection,” McCartney

said, “and have moments of preciousness, eccentricity, and little

extra touches that make you feel special.”

McCartney’s clothes are great not just because of all the sustainable

game-changing thinking that goes into them. They

express a progressive point of view, creatively balanced between

femininity and practicality, glamour wearability, playfulness

and British cool. “At Stella, we are actually a lot women designing

for women, and there’s a lot of reasoning which goes

into the sourcing and the making,” she said, offering this as

a way of explanation for why people would choose her label.

Pre-fall offered plenty of reasons to chose Stella. Outerwear

looked great, with a play on voluminous sculptural proportions,

on trapeze and cape-like cuts, and with an emphasis on

details, like a sexy black faux-leather trench coat with a detachable

punched and scalloped collar with a romantic-tough edge.

Other little touches included the rounded mismatched buttons

playfully fastening a needle-punched city-coat in blown-up

herringbone and the long, trailing faux-leather fringes gracing

the sleeves of a roomy, sculptural camel coat, giving a sense of

eccentric dynamism. It made for quite a dramatic statement.

A range of sustainable materials added eco-conscious value as

well as creative oomph: organic cotton, sustainable viscose,

recycled nylon and polyester, sustainable viscose and wool, regenerated

cashmere, and vegan leather. New additions included

Koba Fur-Free-Fur, a recycled and recyclable plant-based material

that is so far the most sustainable animal-free fur ever

made. It was used for a white herringbone-patterned coat that

felt heavenly soft to the touch. Sustainable denim was proposed

in a new version called Coreva, the first bio-degradable stretch

denim created from plant-based yarns, free from plastic and

replacing commonly used petrol-based elastomers.

The same conscious approach was obviously extended to the

men’s line, where work-wear-inspired yet polished tailoring

could be shared in a common wardrobe and worn either by

a man or a woman. “I remember that my mom and my dad

shared a wardrobe when I was young,” she said. “I find it inspiring—and

I’ve always borrowed from men.”

52


DESIGN

Images: Stella McCartney Pre-fall 2020 Collection.

(Stella McCartney, 2020).

53


STELLA McCARTNEY

54


DESIGN

Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2016.

55


STELLA McCARTNEY

“IT’S NOT ABOUT WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE IN THE STUDIO OR ON

THE RUNWAY, IT’S WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE ON A REAL PERSON THAT

MATTERS. THAT ISN’T EASY, BUT IT’S WHAT’S FUN”

—STELLA McCARTNEY

Image: Stella McCartney We Are the Weather Capsule Campaign.

56


DESIGN

57


STELLA McCARTNEY

WE ARE THE

What would you do to save the planet?

This is the question that author Jonathan

Safran Foer asks. A long time friend

of Stella, the two collaborated on this

capsule collection in the most simple

and symbiotic way. Taking samples of

his hand writing and embroidering his

poignant words on sharp tailoring and

chunky knits, we’ve brought not only

personal connection to the capsule, but

a rich and emotional story.

WEATHER

COLLECTION BY STELLA McCARTNEY

“ENCODED INTO OUR

LANGUAGE IS THE

UNDERSTANDING THAT

DISASTERS TEND TO

EXPOSE THAT WHICH WAS

PREVIOUSLY HIDDEN. AS

THE PLANETARY CRISIS

UNFOLDS AS A SERIES

OF EMERGENCIES, OUR

DECISIONS WILL REVEAL

WHO WE ARE” ...

It’s not just about feeling good, it’s about doing the right thing.

It’s about caring for nature and for the planet. We shot the

collection with Lee Whittaker and stylist Lee Trigg on an island

where the inhabitants believe that too, living in harmony

with nature, totally off the grid and having as little impact as

possible. The collection itself is made sustainably, using organic

linen and cotton, recycled cashmere (that has a lower environmental

impact than virgin) and sustainable viscose.

It’s not always easy. But we are glass half full about it. We

want to take responsibility and lead the fashion industry. As

Jonathan Safran Foer says, “Be living. Believing.”

“WE CAN CHOOSE TO MAKE

CHANGES, OR WE CAN BE

SUBJECT TO OTHER CHANG-

ES--MASS MIGRATION, DIS-

EASE, ARMED CONFLICT, A

GREATLY DIMINISHED QUALI-

TY OF LIFE--BUT THERE IS NO

FUTURE WITHOUT CHANGE.

THE LUXURY OF CHOOSING

WHICH CHANGES WE PREFER

HAS AN EXPIRATION DATE” ...

58


DESIGN

“IT IS DANGEROUS

TO PRETEND THAT

WE KNOW MORE

THAN WE DO. BUT

IT IS EVEN MORE

DANGEROUS TO

PRETEND THAT WE

KNOW LESS” ...

Images above: Stella McCartney We Are the

Weather Capsule.(Stella McCartney, 2020).

Image left: Stella McCartney We Are the Weather

Capsule Campaign.

59


LARGE OUTSIDE FORCES. BUT RECOGNIZING THAT WE ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PROBLEM IS THE ...

STELLA McCARTNEY

“IF WE DON’T DEMONSTRATE SOLIDARI-

TY THROUGH SMALL COLLECTIVE SACRI-

FICES, WE WILL NOT WIN THE WAR, AND

IF WE DO NOT WIN THE WAR, WE WILL

LOSE THE CHILDHOOD HOME OF EVERY

HUMAN WHO HAS EVER LIVED” ...

“WE BELIEVE THAT THE ENVIRONMENTAL CRISIS IS CAUSED BY LARGE OUTSIDE FORCES AND THEREFORE CAN BE SOLVED ONLY BY

BEGINNING OF TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE SOLUTION” ...

“NO ONE WHO ISN’T US IS GOING TO

DESTROY EARTH, AND NO ONE WHO

ISN’T US IS GOING TO SAVE IT. THE MOST

HOPELESS CONDITIONS CAN INSPIRE

THE MOST HOPEFUL ACTIONS. WE HAVE

FOUND WAYS TO RESTORE LIFE ON

EARTH IN THE EVENT OF A TOTAL COL-

LAPSE BECAUSE WE HAVE FOUND WAYS

TO CAUSE A TOTAL COLLAPSE OF LIFE

ON EARTH. WE ARE THE FLOOD, AND WE

ARE THE ARK” ...

- JONATHAN SAFRAN FOER

60


Images: Stella McCartney We Are the

Weather Capsule Campaign.

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STELLA McCARTNEY

Image above: Stella McCartney Spring 2020 Lingerie Campaign.

Image right: Stella McCartney Double Mastectomy Bra (Stella McCartney, 2020).

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DESIGN

STELLA McCARTNEY CARES PINK

DOUBLE MASTECTOMY BRA

Stella McCartney Cares Pink is a

platform dedicated to the prevention,

early detection and treatment of breast

cancer through education, awareness

and support; an important cause

incredibly close to Stella’s heart.

Since 2014, Stella McCartney has contributed to Breast Cancer

Awareness through informative global campaigns, donating

proceeds from product featured to leading support centres and

charities worldwide. One of the two primary causes of the

Stella McCartney Cares Foundation, Stella McCartney Cares

Pink is the next step in making a deeper and more comprehensive

contribution, with a focus on patients, survivors and

their loved ones.

In 1998, Stella lost her mother, Linda McCartney, to breast

cancer, experiencing its tragic realities first hand. In the 20

years that have passed, survival rates have grown exponentially,

and she is proud to be campaigning for awareness and supporting

the breast cancer community through positive change.

Through Stella McCartney Cares Pink, Stella hopes to inspire

and inform women and men across the world so that together

we can all make an impact in the fight against cancer.

LOUISE LISTENING BRA

In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month in October 2015,

the designer did good by doing what she does best: helping

women to look and feel confidently beautiful. With the unique

needs of double mastectomy patients in mind, McCartney introduced

a bra that provides all the functionality a woman

needs after the procedure, while offering something far more

rare: a delicate and feminine piece of lingerie that’s deeply attuned

to the emotional impact of the surgery recovery process.

For those who are intimately familiar with the bra alternatives

currently available to post-mastectomy patients—clinical-looking

contraptions in a spare palette of harsh nudes and

whites—it’s a welcome breath of fresh air. Called the Louise

Listening, after Linda McCartney’s middle name, Louise, the

soft blush-color cotton bra with white-lace trim provides compression

for the healing process. A zip front makes it easy to

slip on and off, while the deep-sided, underwire-free design was

calibrated with maximum comfort in mind. Proceeds benefit

the Hello Beautiful Foundation’s efforts to build a center in

London for women with the disease and their families. “Cancer

and mastectomy cannot destroy you, they cannot win,”

McCartney said. “We want to deliver on all fronts by providing

technical support and comfort while women heal, without

sacrificing on style, fashion, femininity, and fit. We wanted to

give all of that to the woman who is battling through this.”

Incorporating feedback from the many women who have tested

the bra, 2018’s modified design includes ultra-soft internal

pockets for use with prosthesis, wide, adjustable straps, and an

extended size range of S—XXL.

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STELLA McCARTNEY

BUY A BRA. DONATE A BRA.

Since 2018 Stella McCartney Cares has been offering the

Louise Listening bra for free through this website. The bra is

shipped around the world without any cost implication for the

recipient, as Stella McCartney believes every woman has the

right feel feminine and supported through this difficult time.

If you would like to gift this feeling to another woman, or you

are able to pay a small sum in return for your Louise Listening

bra, we invite you donate whatever you can to Stella McCartney

Cares to keep this program alive. £25/25 euros/$30 will

cover the production and shipping costs of 1 Louise Listening

bra for a woman in need.

In 2018, 1,000 women received a free Louise Listening bra,

either directly from the foundation or from one of our partner

hospitals. In 2019, the number of bras available to women

around the world increased to 10,000, with more stock available

from stellamccartneycares.org and an increased network

of partner hospitals across the UK.

ADIDAS BY STELLA McCARTNEY BRA

In 2019 Stella introduced the first Adidas by Stella McCartney

post-mastectomy sports bra, helping women bring exercise back

into their lives during recovery. This is now available through

the website, with a portion of the proceeds benefitting vital

breast cancer initiatives through the Stella McCartney Cares

Pink foundation.

“WE WANT TO DELIVER ON ALL FRONTS

BY PROVIDING TECHNICAL SUPPORT AND

COMFORT WHILE WOMEN HEAL, WITHOUT

SACRIFICING ON STYLE, FASHION,

FEMININITY, AND FIT”

“With the Post-Mastectomy Sports Bra, I really wanted to encourage

women to take care of their health through wellness

and self-care. This bra allows us to support recovering patients

through the next phase of their journey, and hopefully give

them the confidence to get back into training. It has a cool

and modern look that will help motivate the wearer, as well

as assuring them, they are not odd one out in the gym,” said

Stella McCartney.

Alongside the launch of the Post-Mastectomy Sports Bra, the

campaign features British professional boxer Michele Aboro,

who is a breast cancer survivor, mother and mentor. Michele is

an inspiration to all women looking to embed sports back into

their lives, and represents the dynamic needs the bra was created

for. “After my surgery I felt lost. As a professional athlete,

I was used to relying on my body but after my mastectomy, I

started to lose belief in myself and how my body would react.

When I was ready to get back into fitness, I couldn’t find a

sports bra that didn’t require being pulled over my head or

lacked in support. Now I wear the Post-Mastectomy Sports

Bra every time I train – it is comfortable and supportive and

has helped me build back my confidence to get back into the

game,” Michele explains.

Image left: Adidas x Stella McCartney.

Images right: Stella McCartney Cares Pink #NoLessAWomen campaign.

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DESIGN

Progress . . .

65



Stella McCartney 2019 Breast Cancer Awareness Campaign starring Michele, a world-champion

boxer, mother, and breast cancer survivor. (Stella McCartney, 2019).


STELLA McCARTNEY

Stella McCartney Pre-fall 2017 Collection. (Stella McCartney, 2017).

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CIRCULARITY

“BY ENSURING THAT OUR PRODUCTS ARE USED FOR THE

ENTIRETY OF THEIR LIFECYCLE IT IS POSSIBLE TO BEGIN

TO SLOW DOWN THE AMOUNT OF NATURAL RESOURCES

CURRENTLY BEING CULTIVATED AND EXTRACTED FROM

THE PLANET FOR THE SAKE OF FASHION”

—STELLA McCARTNEY

Progress . . .

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STELLA McCARTNEY

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Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2018 Campaign.

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STELLA McCARTNEY

STELLA McCARTNEY

INTERIOR DESIGNER

Stella McCartney took her abilities as a designer to new levels

with the London flagship store. The space, described as a

multi-sensory experience, blends architectural design with

recycled materials, nature, and the cleanest air in London.

“Someone said to me recently, ‘What I love

about Stella McCartney is that I go in and

I know you’ve done half of the work for me,

so I don’t have to ask all these questions, like

where was it made, how was it made, was it

sourced correctly, da-da-da…’”, she says. “And

it was something that hadn’t occurred to me

but, you know, women come into my stores or

into my environment and they know that I’ve

already ticked off a lot of the criteria that they

might look for and have to work much harder

to find in other places.”

The great outdoors is also reflected in McCartney’s

state-of-the-sustainable-arts London flagship

store—which she designed herself, with

a soundtrack that includes a three-hour loop

of her father, Paul’s, demo tapes along with a

Bob Roth meditation in the changing rooms.

“The audio is important for me,” she says as

she proudly walks me round it, “because it’s

obviously such a big part of my upbringing.”

There are papier-mâché walls made from “all

of the shredded paper from the office,” along

with a silver birch grove and a moss-covered

rockery of giant granite rocks brought from

the 1,100-acre McCartney family farm on

Scotland’s Mull of Kintyre. “My personality is

this sort of contrast between the hard and the

soft, the masculine and feminine,” says McCartney.

“I wanted to have life in the store—to

bring nature into the experience of shopping,”

she explains as she takes me up in the Stellevator

to the floor where she fitted the Duchess

of Sussex for the glamorous halter-neck dress

she wore for the wedding reception following

her marriage to Prince Harry.

Alongside a passion for sustainability and a

self-confession desire to save the planet, Mc-

Cartney has a more unexpected love—architecture.

She led the design of her store at 23

Old Bond Street —transforming a Grade-II

listed 18th-century building into a shiny

four-storey architectural experience connected

by a raw steel spiral staircase.

The design is filled with references to McCartney’s

parents, and her father even worked

alongside her in its creation.

But she also chose to take a sustainable approach

with every detail, including biodegradable

mannequins made from a bio-plastic material

composed of sugar-cane derivatives and

an Airlabs air-filtration system that provides

the “cleanest air in London”.

Image left: A sculptural spiral raw steel staircase anchors the space at

Stella McCartney’s 23 Old Bond Street store. (Stella McCartney, 2018).

Image right: Inside Stella McCartney’s store. (Stella McCartney, 2018).

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STELLA McCARTNEY

“I WANTED TO HAVE LIFE IN THE

STORE—TO BRING NATURE INTO

THE EXPERIENCE OF SHOPPING”

Three-foot tall boulders from the family farm in Kintyre, Scotland,

sit on the concrete floors, contrasted against brightly coloured

recycled foam seating, a squidgy orange silicon desk and

reclaimed Venetian wood that serves as shelving.

Paul McCartney’s old vinyl player sits in the menswear department

on the fourth floor, and visitors are invited to play his

records. A soundtrack of unpublished music composed by the

former Beatle is also played through speakers behind mirrors

and from the ceiling above the spiral steel staircase.”Audio has

such weight and magnitude in my life, probably not like for

normal people,” said McCartney.

“I want anyone to come to this store, whether you’re rich, poor,

black, white, old, young, male or female. Anyone can come. I

don’t need you to buy anything, I just want you to come and

experience the store and listen to the music.”

The main focal point of the store, the steel staircase, has caused

much contention among the Stella McCartney team, as it eats

into valuable retail space. She was advised to create a small

staircase to maximize the surface area of her shop floors, but

McCartney pushed back.

“We’ve given up a lot of retail space in the store to create an

architectural experience,” she stated.

“Architecture is a huge passion of mine and I have been the

architect in this process of creating this space. You are only allowed

to do so much architecture in retail because you are limited

in that people have to do a certain amount of shopping.”

Regarding the style of the store’s design, Stella said “There is

a brutalist architectural element to the store with the concrete

and then the rocks, and it’s sort of jarring and unsettling. Then

to see fabric, it’s all mashed up into why I do what I do. I love

brutalist architecture. I’m a big fan of brutalist touch points,

like how this fluted concrete meets the soft floor. Then the

silicon desk, did you feel it? It’s so amazing”.

McCartney hopes that the sustainable elements of her new

store, which slot in around the striking visual elements, will

urge other designers to incorporate environmental thinking

into their work.

“This is not easy for me and these shoulder-padded-shoulders

to do. I’m trying to lead by example, I’m not making a sacrifice

and I’m trying not to preach,” she added. “It’s exhausting full

stop, but we believe it and we do it and we won’t stop.”

Image top: The store references the designer’s upbringing. Boulders

from the family farm in Kintyre, Scotland, sit on the concrete floors

among living moss.

Image bottom: McCartney’s environmental mission influenced the design

of her new London store, which contains bio-plastic mannequins

made from sugar-cane derivatives.

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Progress . . .

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STELLA McCARTNEY

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Stella McCartney Sustainability Campaign, 2018.


STELLA McCARTNEY

STELLA McCARTNEY

LOOP LAB

CLICK

IMAGE!

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CIRCULARITY

Ethical warrior, Stella McCartney shows off

her latest invention with the Loop sneakers.

The Stella McCartney Loop Lab is an exhibition at 23 Old

Bond Street exploring the construction of the new sustainable

Loop Sneaker.

A futuristic space designed to highlight Stella McCartney’s

innovative and recyclable product, encapsulating the brand’s

sustainable and circular ethos.

The sneaker’s design is the result of pioneering innovation and

technology developed over 18 months, an important moment

in Stella McCartney’s sustainability story and journey towards

greater circularity.

Shoes are typically made so that it is nearly impossible to separate

each component and therefore difficult to recycle: the

Loop sneaker is a solution to this problem.

Dynamic and modern, the sneakers demonstrate a new method

of attaching the upper to the sole without glue, using interlocking

clips, similar to Lego, instead and thread. It’s stitched

together using an eco-friendly thread and only uses a small

amount of glue during manufacturing that’s water-based, animal-friendly

and biodegradable. This means that at the end of

the sneaker’s life the upper can be removed from the sole and

each part recycled or reused.

Visuals left: Stella McCartney Loop Lab (Stella McCartney, 2018).

Image below: Loop lab for AnOther Magazine

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STELLA McCARTNEY

THRIFTING

STELLA McCARTNEY

Stella McCartney and The RealReal have joined

forces in the hopes of implementing industry-wide

change on disposable consumption patterns with

a new initiative called “The Future of Fashion is

Circular”, shedding light on a “Make Well, Buy

Well, Resell” model.

The partnership itself is an unprecedented call-to-action in bringing awareness

to the circular economy and is designed to get people to start thinking differently

about fashion. Essentially, this marks the first time a luxury brand is

actively pushing for items to be consigned. By purchasing a quality, sustainable

product that retains value and then reselling it to a buyer or consignment store

like The RealReal once one is done with it, its lifespan increases significantly,

avoids landfills and is placed in the hands of another consumer.

“At Stella McCartney, we have been working for years to ensure that our supply

chains represent some of the most traceable and sustainable in fashion while also

continuing to ensure that our products, which are made to last, have long lives

and never end up as waste,” the designer said in a statement. “This campaign

is about raising the awareness on a circular approach to fashion. We alongside

The RealReal are making the commitment now and we can only hope that

others will follow.”

Indeed, the first-of-its-kind alliance even

includes an incentive for shoppers: They

will receive $100 to shop at Stella McCartney

stores if they consign any Stella Mc-

Cartney item to The RealReal.

Wainwright tells me the idea first came

about during talks with Kering, the

French conglomerate who recently sold

their 50% stake in Stella McCartney back

to McCartney herself. “I started talking to

Kering about this a long time ago because

they have sustainability in their platform

and they’re really trying to understand the

role of resale and how that fits into their

fashion cycle,” says Wainright. When she

then spoke with Stella, the two immediately

shared an understanding and knew

they had to work together.

“Now look, new is not going to go away. We don’t want it to go away. But I

think it’s just starting to think ‘Do I need to buy everything new or can I buy

some things in the secondary market,’ not just for fashion but for your home,

jewelry... You get a really good value when you buy secondary. If you just leave

a portion of your purchasing for it you’re going to help the planet immensely,”

she adds.

The initiative also lays the groundwork for other luxury brands, who have traditionally

been hesitant towards consignment, to emulate a similar program that

encourages a circular model. “It sounds risky I’m sure because they don’t really

fully embrace or understand that a strong secondary market really does support

the primary market,” says Wainwright. “I think it’s so scary because they’re not

reselling their own goods so they could feel that this will take away from their

market share. But here is what we’ve found in a lot of data at the Kering Group

in particular but also LVMH and their interest is that once people start buying

on our site or consigning, they’re really conscious of what that resell value is and

it can inform their purchases in the primary market. We’ve never had anyone

slow down their buying of new. They supplement their buying on our site and

they tend to buy things that they know they can resell,” she concludes.

On the partnership, Stella said, “Sustainability is important to us and I’m

excited to be partnering with the RealReal on this new sustainable program.

We believe that consignment, and re-commerce can play a significant part in

reducing the amount of raw materials that are required each year from our

planet. This is key in our commitment to becoming part of a more circular

economy. By ensuing that our products are used for the entirety of their lifecycle

it is possible to begin to slow down the amount of natural resources currently

being cultivated and extracted from the planet for the sake of fashion”.

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CLICK

IMAGE!

Stella McCartney x The RealReal Campaign Film.

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STELLA McCARTNEY

STELLA McCARTNEY

MISSION SUSTAINABLE

CLICK

IMAGE!

Campaign video for the launch of Stella McCartney’s World of Sustainability, a platform entirely

dedicated to telling you about their sustainable practices and journey to operating as a modern and

responsible business. Released January 29, 2018.

Film shot by contemporary photographer Viviane Sassen, with poetry by Maria Barnas.

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Follow hooves up the hill

becoming hills and then sliding valleys,

up up through the rippling sand

and soon we are rushing as one body

gathering speed with wind rustling

through our hair, blowing in all directions.

I catch my breath between the clouds

gushing towards the mountains

over the trees and clouds in me.

How their hues and contours brighten.

I feel the grip of my hand tighten

around a stone I found at a bend

in the river. I am holding on to forms

of a past, a certain shape

of the future, showing the way.

TO NURTURE TO NATURE

A POEM BY MARIA BARNAS

The trees like to loose their contours

to ease into pure being. I wonder

what exists beyond their names and variations.

They seem to know and sway

in a silence that becomes bristling:

a single word in my hand.

“HOW CAN I KEEP

THIS ALIVE?”

There is a melody in the slow beckoning

of their branches, a movement

you may remember: rattling a stick

along a park’s fence, bouncing a clear voice

off the cars passing by, clunking a bag

packed with future, one heart two hearts

pounding against the humming

of the sky, humming.

How can I keep all this alive?

I am not sure how to swim

exactly in the perfect water

that opens up before me

clear and unclear as time.

I open my hand and see water

thrive, a precious stone, a promise

to keep. This is what I carry

as the purest sky and why

I spread my arms and dive.

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STELLA McCARTNEY

WE ARE AGENTS OF CHANGE. WE CHALLENGE AND PUSH BOUNDARIES TO MAKE LUX-

URIOUS PRODUCTS IN A WAY THAT IS FIT FOR THE WORLD WE LIVE IN TODAY AND THE

FUTURE: BEAUTIFUL AND SUSTAINABLE. NO COMPROMISES.

Progress . . .

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GIF by Maxwell Paternoster for Stella

McCartney’s Winter 2020 Collection.

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