Stella McCartney Brand Book
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BY SHAUNA CURRAN
STELLA McCARTNEY
Progress . . .
6
TABLE OF CONTENTS
8-41
9
14
19
27
29
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42-75
44
52
58
63
72
76-85
78
80
82
86
SUSTAINABILITY
Stella McCartney: Agent of Change
Headliner: Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney: Everything is at Stake
Stella McCartney: Activist
#StellaMcCartneyTodayForTomorrow
Stella McCartney: Innovator
GOOD DESIGN
Stella McCartney: Designer
Stella McCartney Pre-Fall 2020
We are the Weather Collection
Stella McCartney Cares Pink
Stella McCartney: Interior Designer
THE AFTERLIFE
Stella McCartney: Loop Lab
Thrifting: Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney: Mission Sustainable
REFERENCES
7
STELLA McCARTNEY
8
ABOUT
STELLA McCARTNEY
AGENT OF CHANGE
Inspired by her parents and equipped with an uncompromising
passion to create a future that is environmentally friendly
and beautifully designed, Stella McCartney is the face
of innovation and activism in sustainable fashion.
Stella McCartney is a creative, a scientist, a tech entrepreneur
and a farmer all rolled into one. “It’s fascinating because I grew
up on an organic farm and now what I do for a living really
is farming,” she says. “And I think that that’s something that
people don’t really realize —that in fashion design, we’re actually
just farming the land, but instead of making a veggie patty
out of it, we’re making a jacket. That connection is something
that I find really inspiring and challenging. It just drives me”.
Today, Stella McCartney is known as one of the most innovative
designers of our generation. A vocal vegetarian and animal
rights activist like her parents, Stella decided at the age of
12, when she set her sights on being a fashion designer, never
to use leather, fur, or feathers in her creations. For a luxury
fashion designer to turn her back on leather is like a guitarist
boycotting the C chord. A large share of the luxury industry’s
profits come from leather shoes and bags, usually as gateway
purchases for customers whose budgets wouldn’t normally
stretch to ready-to-wear.
McCartney credits her initial interest in conscious living to
her upbringing. She was raised on an organic farm in East
Sussex, England, where she says she “understood the elements”:
nature, seasons, animals. “It’s just how I’ve always looked at the
Earth,” she explains. “I didn’t have the conventions or baggage
that most other generations have had. My parents broke that
rule of ‘You have to eat meat. You’re gonna die if you don’t eat
meat.’” Her vegetarian parents were outspoken animal rights
activist. In the ‘80s and ‘90s, her mother Linda co-authored
cookbooks with meatless recipes and developed her own line of
vegetarian frozen meals. In 1999, PETA’s first Linda McCartney
Memorial Award was presented by Paul McCartney to Pamela
Anderson. On her upbringing, McCartney said “what kid
doesn’t love growing up in a field, with sheep around, or riding
a horse, or watching dragonflies? Those are my best memories
as a child. More so than going on a private jet to Brazil to go
and see a gig with 20,000 people”.
McCartney studied Fashion Design at the prestigious Central
Saint Martins design school, in London. In 1995, the graduate
show involved eight looks, each requiring footwear. “I worked
really hard at that,” she recalls. “It was hard enough to find
someone to make shoes with no minimums. When you’re a student,
it’s virtually impossible.” But McCartney searched until
she found a shoemaker willing to help make her eight pairs in
animal-friendly fabrics to match her collection.
The show was a sensation. McCartney asked her friends Kate
Moss and Naomi Campbell, who happened to also be the most
famous supermodels in the world, to walk the runway. Her
parents sat in the front row; her dad had composed a new song
for the occasion. The show made the pages of the New York
Times. Her father and Campbell were quoted. Stella was not.
The shoes and the clothes didn’t even get a mention. But that’s
not the point of the story. The point is: she didn’t compromise
her values. She found a way to make the shoes.
Left: Stella McCartney for Net-a-Porter.
Top: Stella, Amsterdam, 1989.
9
STELLA McCARTNEY
McCartney didn’t compromise again when, two years later, she was appointed
creative director of the struggling Paris fashion house, Chloé. She was 25
years old. She didn’t even compromise when the entire industry criticized her
appointment. Karl Lagerfeld said, “I think they should have taken a big name.
They did, but in music, not fashion”. She didn’t compromise when, having
revived Chloé’s fortunes, reportedly quadrupling sales in the process, she left
Paris in 2001 to set up her own label in 50-50 partnership with the Gucci (now
Kering) group. Her friend, designer Tom Ford, once gave her a tour of his
studio, extolling every kind of dead-animal skin, trying to change her mind.
That didn’t work either.
In fact, she redoubled her efforts, appearing in campaign videos about the
cruelty of the leather and fur business. As she learned about the further environmental
impacts of the fashion industry, such as global textiles production emitting
1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases annually, she set herself stringent
sustainability targets, like using organic cotton, avoiding endangered forests,
and reducing her use of oil-based synthetics. In 2018, Stella amicably split from
Kering Group giving her full ownership of the House of Stella McCartney and
allowing for further exploration and innovations in sustainability.
The Stella McCartney brand mission now states, “we are agents of change. We
challenge and push boundaries to make luxurious products in a way that is fit
for the world we live in today and the future: beautiful and sustainable. No
compromises.” They make every decision as a symbol of their determination
to defining the possibilities for the future of fashion and do this by never using
leather or fur, pioneering new alternative materials, utilizing cutting edge
technologies, pushing towards circularity, protecting ancient and endangered
forests, and measuring their impact with ground-breaking tools.
Most importantly, Stella McCartney disguises sustainability as practical and
contemporary fashion. As a designer, McCartney lives and dies on the desirability
of her creations. “That’s my job, first and foremost. If I don’t design things
that are desirable, and sexy, and a must-have for people, then it just ends up in
landfill anyway” she said. Her lines include women and men’s ready-to-wear,
lingerie, accessories, eyewear, fragrance, and children’s wear. But she is best
known for her womens wear and accessories.
Understanding the needs of her customers and of women in general is inherent
to McCartney’s appeal. House codes range from masculine (she trained on
Savile Row) to playfully feminine (silky slip dresses, lace, flouncy hemlines).
There are urban elements (city-slicker suiting and the cult Falabella bag with
its chain hardware) and countrified motifs (horses, florals, summer sandals).
“MY EARLIEST MEMORIES ARE OF
LOOKING AT THE WARDROBE THAT
MY MOM AND DAD SHARED AND
SEEING THEIR CLOTHES BLEND
SEAMLESSLY INTO EACH OTHER”
It is this understanding and appreciation for
the multifaceted lives of modern women, with
their contrasting personalities and refusal to
be pigeon-holed, that has given the brand that
much sought-after quality: longevity.
Her past also plays a role. “A lot of my masculine/feminine
stuff comes from the observations
I had as a young child,” she says.
“My earliest memories are of looking at the
wardrobe that my mom and dad shared and
seeing their clothes blend seamlessly into each
other. He wore Savile Row and she wore Savile
Row… There was a real blurring of the
lines.” Natural, carefree, and spontaneous,
McCartney’s campaigns always portray a similar
woman, with an environmental message
weaved in.
For McCartney, the design process often starts
with a material as it does aesthetic inspiration,
like a song, an image, an emotion, a silhouette.
That is in part a result of working with
such stringent self-imposed limitations. “For
example we don’t use PVC, which a lot of
other houses do,” says McCartney. (Polyvinyl
chloride, a plastic used in shoes, outerwear
and details like sequins, is highly toxic.) “So
when I go, ‘I want a lot of sequins this season,’
everyone else has this many …” —she spreads
her hands, shoulder-width apart —“… whereas
I have this many”—a hair’s breadth. “so then
your challenge creatively is how can I make
the most of that?”
10
ABOUT
Nicole Rycroft, Canopy’s executive director
said, “when it comes to sustainability, she is
lapping other designers”. “Stella was the first
brand to cancel a contract with a viscose brand
because it was using an endangered forest. She
was the first real recognizable global designer
to adopt Canopy. The thing that impresses
me most about Stella the person is: she walks
the talk. As a result of that, 160 brands have
followed suit.”
The racks of a Stella McCartney store are a
pageant of luxurious deception: beautiful,
buttery “leather” jackets and bags made from
a fabric it calls Skin-Free-Skin (polyester
and polyurethane, coated with vegetable oil)
hang alongside leopard-print Fur-Free-Fur
(spun from organic fibres). Pumps glisten in
seemingly every skin imaginable. It’s I Can’t
Believe It’s Not Butter! for dead things. For
McCartney, deceiving her customer is the
highest praise. “I relish the thought that 99
percent of our customers come in here, and
they see the Stan Smith, and they haven’t got a
clue it’s a vegetarian shoe,” she says. Because if
customers can’t tell the difference, then there’s
no reason to continue with cruel or unsustainable
fashion. Some of her most notable designs
have developed as a result of her environmental
values and innovation including the 2017
gold shift dress made with Microsilk; the 2018
special edition of McCartney’s bestselling Falabella
handbag made from mushroom leather;
and in 2020 Stella McCartney announced the
first biodegradable denim collection.
“I RELISH THE THOUGHT THAT 99 PER
CENT OF OUR CUSTOMERS COME
IN HERE, AND THEY SEE THE STAN
SMITH, AND THEY HAVEN’T GOT A
CLUE IT’S A VEGETARIAN SHOE”
Images (top to bottom):
1. Stella with mother, Linda, and father, Paul, in 1974.
2. Paul, Stella and James. Scotland, 1982.
3. Stella and James. Scotland, 1982.
4. Heather, Paul and Linda McCartney, with Stella (4), and Mary
(6), at home in London on April 4th, 1976.
11
STELLA McCARTNEY
“WE WANT TO BE THE HOUSE OF TECHNOLOGY”
More recently, recycling and circularity have become an obsession
with McCartney. Leading to products such as the loop
shoe, which has a glue-less design making it recyclable in its
entirety. It’s an innovation that you might expect from a global
sneaker giant or a Silicon Valley startup, rather than a luxury
fashion house. “There’s a lot of shoe companies that haven’t
done this because maybe they didn’t have the idea, which for
us is based in sustainability. The starting point is not design,
the starting point is sustainability.” To further circularity, Stella
has also formed partnerships with consignment stores like The
RealReal, encouraging re-selling and re-using of luxury goods
to keep them out of landfills.
Looking forward Stella McCartney says, “we want to be the
house of technology”. The company has recently sponsored
Central Saint Martins’ Material Futures degree course, and
the animal rights charity Peta’s Bio design Challenge, a global
competition to find eco-conscious materials. “Technology is,
for me, the future of the conversation that we started in the
fashion industry a very, very long time ago.”
The book outlines Stella McCartney’s values and approach to
fashion, starting with sustainability and technological innovation
in design, followed by the importance of good quality
design, and ending with circularity and the afterlife of Stella
McCartney products and brand.
Top: Model Ana Claudia Michels in Stella McCartney
Spring 2002 Ready-to-Wear.
Bottom: Model Kukua William in Stella McCartney Fall
2020 Ready-to-Wear.
12
“THE STARTING POINT IS NOT DESIGN, THE
STARTING POINT IS SUSTAINABILITY”
—STELLA McCARTNEY
Progress . . .
13
STELLA McCARTNEY
Stella McCartney goes wild to drive home animal-free message
Stella McCartney and Adidas unveil circular garments
Is Stella McCartney the Queen of Sustainability?
Stella McCartney pens an urgent letter to the fashion industry
Stella McCartney Is Looking for Green-Minded Collaborators to Radically Shake Things Up
Earth mother: How Stella McCartney became fashion’s conscience
Stella McCartney: ‘Everything is at Stake’
‘I Am A Fighter, And I Am A Rebel’ - Stella McCartney Is Not Done Fighting for The Planet
Stella McCartney pens an urgent letter to the fashion industry
Stella McCartney: The Designer Who Made Luxury Sustainable
Stella McCartney is teaming up with the UN to clean up fashion
ON A QUEST TO SAVE YOU FROM THE FASHION IND
Stella McCartney: Environmental Crusader
STELLA ‘I Am A Fighter, MCCARTNEY And I Am IS A Rebel’ TEAMING - Stella UP McCartney WITH THE Is Not UN Done TO CLEAN Fighting UP for The FASHION Planet
How Google Cloud and Stella McCartney aim to make fashion more sustainable
FASHION DESIGNER STELLA MCCARTNEY CALLS ON CONSUMERS TO PROTECT THE PLANET
Stella McCartney calls for more action on sustainability
FASHION INDUSTRY
Stella McCartney: The Designer Who Made Luxury Sustainable
HEADLINER
:STELLA McCARTNEY
Stella McCartney is teaming up with the UN to clean up fashion
Stella McCartney: Environmental Crusader
STELLA MCCARTNEY IS TEAMING UP WITH THE UN TO CLEAN UP FASHION
Stella McCartney Slams Fast Fashion as a Threat to the Environment
Stella McCartney Slams Fast Fashion as a Threat to the Environment
How Google Cloud and Stella McCartney aim to make fashion more sustainable
FASHION DESIGNER STELLA MCCARTNEY CALLS ON CONSUMERS TO PROTECT THE PLANET
Stella McCartney calls for more action on sustainability
Stella McCartney pens an urgent letter to the fashion industry
Stella McCartney Is Weaving A New Way Forward
Stella McCartney is pioneering synthetic spider silk in high fashion
Stella McCartney Slams Fast Fashion as a Threat to the Environment
Stella McCartney becomes first designer to cover Vogue
Stella McCartney Is Weaving A New Way Forward
VEGAN DESIGNER STELLA MCCARTNEY LAUNCHES NEW CRUELTY-FREE COLLECTION
Stella McCartney is pioneering synthetic spider silk in high fashion
“I Need a Few More Colleagues Linking My Arm”—Stella McCartney Sounds Off on Sustainability, Faux Leather, and the Lack of Honesty Around Both
STELLA MCCARTNEY IS TEAMING UP WITH THE UN TO CLEAN UP FASHION
14
ABOUT
Is Stella McCartney the Queen of Sustainability?
SUT
A
S
A I N
BI
TY L
I
SUSTAINABILITY
noun [suh·stey·nuh·bil·i·tee]
Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future
generations to meet their own needs.
The quality of not being harmful to the environment or depleting natural
resources, and thereby supporting long-term ecological balance.
15
STELLA McCARTNEY
adjective [cru·el·ty·free]
CRUELTY-FREE
Developed without being tested on animals.
VEGAN DESIGNER STELLA McCARTNEY LAUNCHES NEW CRUELTY-FREE COLLECTION
At Stella McCartney this means: no leather, no fur, no skins, no feathers. Even the glues used
in their shoes or bags does not come from animal origins.
Their products are not tested on animals. COTY produce vegan perfumes as a licensee of Stella
McCartney beauty products. They follow and respect a very strict ethical charter. All their
fragrances are vegan friendly, which means that no ingredient is tested on animals or comes
from animal origins, including bees.
Stella McCartney stands by their ethics regarding animal testing. That’s why we they do not
sell their fragrances in China where government regulations require animal testing. They hope
that by promoting these values other fragrance licensees of COTY will follow and say no to
animal testing.
16
CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY
CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY
CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY
CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY
CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY CIRCULARITY
ABOUT
CIRCULARITY
adjective [sur·kyuh·larr·uh·tee]
A circular economy is based on the principles of designing out
waste and pollution, keeping products and materials in use,
and regenerating natural systems.
Stella McCartney and Adidas unveil circular garments
17
STELLA McCARTNEY
Amber Valetta for Stella McCartney
Winter 2019 Campaign.
18
SUSTAINABILITY
STELLA McCARTNEY
EVERYTHING IS AT STAKE
The designer, who has been leading the charge for sustainable
practices in fashion, revealed her plans for the industry to work
towards a more ethical future.
A lifelong vegetarian who founded her cruelty-free
namesake brand in 2001, Stella McCartney has
been in the game of ethical fashion long before it
was trending. Now, she is using her platform as
a designer and businesswoman to implore others
to follow in her footsteps. At VOICES 2018 she
revealed the launch of a UN charter for climate
action within the fashion industry, which delineates
16 commitments for lessening fashion’s impact
on the environment.
McCartney also revealed her latest charitable initiative
“Stella McCartney Cares Green,” which
aims to empower students, professionals and businesses
to embrace sustainable and ethical practices.
It will work towards influencing change
among policymakers too. This call to action was
underscored by an appeal to the collective responsibility
of those in fashion. “It’s really about
bringing everyone together as an industry,” she
said. “Actually, taking responsibility, putting our
money where our mouth is and making an amazing
change together.”
The following interview with Lucy Siegle has been
transcribed and shortened from the Business of
Fashion podcast. Follow the QR code to listen to
the full interview.
1
“LUXURY IS HAVING A VOICE, HAVING FREEDOM, HAVING
CLEAN AIR TO BREATH, HAVING ANIMALS BY OUR SIDE
THAT ARE HAPPY AND HEALTHY AND TREATED WELL,
HAVING PURE WATER TO DRINK, AND HAVING THE LUXU-
RY OF HAVING MOTHER NATURE AND PLANET EARTH IN A
HEALTHY STATE”
SIEGLE
So we are virtually on the eve of COP24 and we traditionally
say these are historic occasions but it feels like monumental
would be more appropriate. We have a job to do and what we
know is when the political dialogue starts, we see policy makers,
politicians negotiating with the evidence. But you can’t
negotiate with the science, it needs to inform what we do. I’m
really delighted that we have a true leader here who knows you
don’t negotiate with the science but you use it to form a consolidated
response that closes
the gap between the ambition
that we need for future
generations because that’s
what’s at stake here and what
our response is as an industry.
So, let’s hear from Stella
McCartney, who’s basically
been doing it for 17 years,
leading this charge, and I’m
sure it must be lonely out in
front, so this is an opportunity
for the whole industry
to come together.
McCARTNEY
Firstly, hi everyone and thank you for having me. You know
we can’t run away from it. The reality is we are all faced with
this problem now. We are all going to suffer the consequences
if we do not take action in a positive way. We need to live in
harmony with planet earth, we need to live in harmony with
our fellow creatures, and we need to be respectful of everything
that she gives us. I mean she is like the gift that keeps
on giving if we can allow her to. So, we have everything really,
everything is at stake.
In Poland, on the 10th of December, the UN will unveil the
charter that has come together with over 20 industry leaders,
hard hitters, and that’s really what it needs. It needs more
than just my voice and some smaller institutions working on
this subject matter it really needs leaders to come together and
work as a force that can change policy and create laws and
legislations. They’re working on 16 commitments that we will
all hopefully adhere to. We are here to get people to sign up
to join because everyone’s voice matters and its really exciting,
it’s really about bringing everyone together as an industry and
instead of having a few people talk about it [sustainability], it’s
about having everyone talk about it, and it’s the leaders that
make the change at the sourcing, manufacturing and, design
[levels]. Then actually taking responsibility, putting our money
where our mouth is and making an amazing change together.
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STELLA McCARTNEY
2SIEGLE
McCARTNEY
That’s an amazing rally and cry and just to light the fire further,
unless we decarbonize rapidly by 2050, this industry will
be responsible for ¼ or all carbon emissions and people will
not thank us for that.
I want to talk to you a little bit about your own brand because
obviously there’s been a conscious uncoupling with Kering,
if I can put it like that, and you were very much the poster
brand for environmental change under the house of Kering.
How does that affect your future going forward and your commitment
to sustainability? You probably don’t like that word
do you.
I love that word! I don’t think enough people really know what
it means. My commitment is at the core of my sort of birth
right if you like, and it’s at the core of everyone that works at
Stella McCartney as much as desirability and luxury in fashion,
we care. We do have that awful word that seems to be a
bit weird right now, we do have authenticity in our just basic
care for the planet and how we conduct ourselves in a more
conscious way in business. So that’s not going to change.
Imagine if I said I’m just going to stop and I’m going to make
plastic bottles. No, so we are fully committed to sustainability.
The Environmental Profit and Loss Index that we worked on
with Kering will continue and what we actually are working
on now is going deeper into that, because that was an amazing
source of data and finding out our impact on what we were
making and actually what that impact had on the planet. But
what we were getting was sort of wide information, so it didn’t
necessarily always apply to us and it wasn’t completely tailored
or personalized to us as a house. What we’re doing now is really
forming our own data and talking to our own supply chain and
our own sourcing and really tailoring it to our needs, so we get
a clearer idea of our impact.
[Reducing] greenhouse gases, is something we are very committed
to. That’s something that we can sort of talk about
with connection to the charter. Disclosing information and
having complete transparency is really important to us at Stella
McCartney. I think it’s something that has to become more
important to everybody in every industry quite frankly. And,
you know, manning up about the things we need help on because
we’re not perfect, some things we do have to do more
conventionally but the commitment there will be forever.
3
SIEGLE
You are doing some really ambitious stuff though that kind of
makes my heart sing as a nerdish ecologist, like regenerative
agriculture becoming part of your fashion landscape.
McCARTNEY
Yea! We are working really hard on regenerative agriculture.
You know, I grew up on an organic farm, we had arable farms,
and it’s funny because I now look at what I’m doing and I’m
like we’re basically farmers in the fashion industry. We’re just
kind of using soil, using land, cutting down forest, but we’re
not really putting back what we’re taking out. So, at Stella Mc-
Cartney we’re working very deeply on that. Obviously organic
cotton is a must for us but cotton is the biggest used material
in the fashion industry so you can go to that level, but the next
level and the most important level is the soil.
Basically, soil is the biggest creator of oxygen on the planet,
second to the sea. It’s a terrestrially, it’s the biggest creator of
carbon. So, we’re looking very intensely at our sourcing and
how we put nutrients back into the soil, how we take care of
that, how to avoid the dust and the soot. It’s really important
to farm in the proper way because it creates more and better-quality
oxygen.
4
SIEGLE
You know this is a whole new world isn’t it? Fashion, farming,
can you see that you’ll be calling on soil biologists to be part
of your team before long?
McCARTNEY
I mean we do, the thing is, and it comes back to the charter,
we have to work as a team because I can’t do it all alone and I
have to work with the people we source from. We do it [work
with soil biologists and farmers] so much at Stella McCartney.
We spent two years working on viscose, for example. Over
150 million trees a year are cut down for viscose alone in the
fashion industry. These are from our rain forests; this is a huge
disaster not only for the planet and environment but also for
the inhabitants of the rain forest which we tend to forget. At
Stella McCartney, what we’ve done for many years now, is work
with the sourcing, getting sustainable forestry that we can work
with, taking the yarn, which is a completely different quality,
to our mills, the same luxury mills we all want to use in luxury
fashion, in Italy and all around the world, and giving them an
alternative yarn. It’s taken over two years to get a quality that
we are happy with. You know we are probably the only one in
the [fashion] industry using that viscose and it’s crazy! I think
that’s where I find hope with this idea of coming together for
the charter. I want to share that information and I don’t want
to have to do it alone.
5
SIEGLE
Let’s talk about this other new initiative that you’re here to
announce as well, the launch of Stella McCartney Cares Green.
We already have Stella McCartney Cares Pink and now we
have Green. Just explain what the components are and what
change that’s going to bring?
McCARTNEY
We launched Stella McCartney Cares Pink in October, which
is part of the arm of our charity that focuses on breast cancer
and breast cancer awareness. We designed a double mastectomy
bra a couple years ago and my big goal was to give them
away to everybody free, and actually in the first day, all of the
bras that we had went! Which is a great sign that we have that
reach that we can tell people about things, but also incredibly
depressing at the same time.
So, what we’re going to launch here today is the environmental
side of the foundation which is basically here to open source
and have a conversation on everything that we’ve studied and
spent so much time and love and energy learning about on
environmental issues in the fashion industry. I want to open
up that conversation and open up the information because I
think that there is so much confusion around what sustainably
means and what it means in the fashion industry, the second
most harmful [industry] on the planet, and how to get that
kind of conversation opening up by giving incentives.
It’s something that I find really strange about what I do, you
know my incentives have always been personal and I was always
pretty privileged to be able to not compromise in the way
that I went into the fashion industry and ran my business. But
I think trying to create some incentives like scholarships will
20
SUSTAINABILITY
give incentives to new up and coming designers. At the same
time, technology is really important to us so really talking
about how technology can be the way forward and how sexy
that is. I guess one of the things I’m most excited about is the
idea of creating some kind of fund for lawyers and NGOs, so
actually encouraging policy change because unless we have
that, really, there’s only so much you can do and that comes
hand in hand with the idea of incentives. I can get taxed up
to 30% just for taking a non-leather good into America for
example, and it’s like why should I be punished in a sense for
not killing animals and for not using the chemicals that turn
the leathers? It should be the other way around.
6
SIEGLE
I find this really exciting because … when you look through
different lenses, by working with lawyers or farmers or biologists,
you suddenly see a lot of remedies that weren’t available
to you before. And, of course, this picks up grass roots action.
This is you saying we are not going to put up with these unfair
laws and it’s a very challenging position to adopt.
McCARTNEY
Yea, I guess we’ve never really done things by the rule book at
Stella McCartney. We’re trying to change things and I think
the entire conversation is about change in the right direction.
I can only do so much, but if I can have policies change and
have politicians actually look at this issue and look at taxation,
look at import, look at export, look at China, for example.
In China you still have to test on animals to bring in a beauty
product. I don’t sell any of my perfumes into China and nobodies
having that conversation. All of the big brands in beauty
that go into China are testing on animals. Now, if they all
said ‘no’, if they all wanted to, we can have such a strong and
powerful voice. I think that it can happen, and it can happen
now. This is amazing that we’re even having this conversation.
You know this is happening now and I really see it. After all
these years I’m so excited and encouraged and I think it is the
time for change!
7
SIEGLE
So, you’re feeling hopeful? Because we’ve got a lot of doom and
gloom around us, especially going into COP24, we’re worried
about keeping to 1.5 [degree Celsius global warming this century].
We have a president in America who willfully doesn’t
know the difference between climate and weather. You know
we are in this situation; we are where we are, but your still
feeling hopeful and like we can push through?
McCARTNEY
Yea, I mean he [President Trump] is watching this right now,
should we say hi? Come on, you can do it!
I have to be hopeful; we all have to be hopeful. It’s the way I’m
wired, and I couldn’t do what I do if I didn’t have some kind
of hope for the future. And I see that we can do it. I think
what’s kind of frustrating for me is that I’m not a big brand,
I’m not a loud voice, but I’ve got vegan Stan Smith’s on that I
talked Adidas into doing with me and they are a huge brand.
If they see that this [Stan Smith shoe] can be made first and
foremost and it can wear and tear as much as a leather Stan
Smith’s using animal bone and fish bone glue, then maybe
they’ll change. If I can do it, anyone can do it! I have to have
hope because there’s a lot of bigger voices out there with a lot
more money and a lot more clout behind them
8
9
Illustration by Maxwell Paternoster for Stella
McCartney’s Winter 2020 Collection.
SIEGLE
But you’re very persuasive Stella and we know that. And let’s
just have a final act of persuasion because you need everyone
here and beyond to sign up to the Charter. Don’t you?
McCARTNEY
I love that it’s me who needs it, it’s only me that needs you to
sign up. It’s basically you all need to sign up because you all
need to sign up. I mean it’s ridiculous that I’m here even needing
to have this conversation quite frankly. But it’s a positive
thing it’s an amazing thing that we’ve started a conversation,
we’ve opened up the concept that people in power in the fashion
industry can make change, they can take responsibility in
their own hands.
Consumers are critical, you know conscious consumption is
at the core of everything. If the people that make the business
decisions know that the next generation of consumers will not
stand for anything less than responsible business, then they’re
going to have to do it anyways. So, I think it’s great if everyone
takes the law into their own hands and it’s doable. We can do
it and we have 16 commitments now; we can have many more,
but this is the start.
Be part of it [the movement] guys, you’re all part of it!
SIEGLE
And it feeds directly into the Paris agreement so when your
kids and your grandkids asked you what you did you will be
able to hold your head up and make eye contact and say I was
part of this incredibly important response. I just want you to
finish on a comment to a phrase that you said to me before
which I really liked. You said that this really is the ultimate
luxury now, and this is something that young people respond
to and this is why we should see it as an opportunity.
McCARTNEY
You know it’s just all intertwined isn’t it? Many years ago,
before this was a kind of fashionable conversation to have,
people would say to me as a designer “what’s your idea of luxury?”
you’re like ‘I don’t know like a Berkin bag? I don’t know
what sort of question is that?’, but for me, my personal idea of
luxury is having a voice, having freedom, having clean air to
breath, having animals by our side that are happy and healthy
and treated well, having pure water to drink, and having the
luxury of having mother nature and planet earth in a healthy
state. That for me is the ultimate, I don’t know what other
luxury there is, other than, you know, a Falabella bag and a
pair of vegan Stan Smiths.
21
STELLA McCARTNEY
22
SUSTAINABILITY
Amber Valetta for Stella McCartney Winter 2019 Campaign.
23
STELLA McCARTNEY
24
SUSTAINABILITY
Stella McCartney Winter 2019 Campaign.
Progress . . .
25
STELLA McCARTNEY
26
SUSTAINABILITY
STELLA McCARTNEY
ACTIVIST
Ever the committed environmentalist, Stella McCartney has cast
members of the climate activist group Extinction Rebellion in her latest
campaign for winter 2019. Shot by British photographer Johnny Dufort,
members Deya Ward, Ruby Munslow and Tori Tsui appear in dreamlike
scenes along the bucolic Welsh coast, highlighting the beauty of the
natural world and driving home the importance of preserving and
protecting our planet.
As the daughter of the late activist Linda Mc-
Cartney, Stella has used her platform established
through her fashion house in 2001 to
continue the legacy her mother left behind.
Fashion is rife with faux activism and empty
ethical promises but Stella McCartney, who
has campaigned for ethical and sustainable
practices throughout her career, never fails to
blow us away with her commitment to environmental
change. Fighting
for greener fashion via her label
and by using her platform
to amplify initiatives such as
the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s
Circular Economy,
this campaign is the latest in
a long line designed to inspire
industry change.
Alongside the Extinction Rebellion activists,
American model Amber Valletta stars in the
campaign. A longtime friend of McCartney’s,
she’s devoted her career to encouraging sustainability
in fashion through partnering with
H&M on its Conscious Collection and working
with Fashion Revolution to highlight unfair
industry practices. Models Emma Laird,
Chloe Pearson, Chu Wong and Trinity Hill
—“selected for being voices for change in their
own field” —also feature.
A short film accompanying the campaign
will be revealed in September, just in time for
fashion month. In it, British environmentalist
Jane Goodall will read a poem by Jonathan
Safran Foer (whose book Eating Animals is a
vegan tome), including sentiments like: “Here
is where we are born without choosing to be
born, but then choose how to live. Here is
where we have our long moment, where we
cannot help but leave things differently than
how we found them, and have the choice to
leave things better. Here and only here are we
home.” The winter 2019 campaign will also
include a social media series called How to
Save the World, sharing small ways we can all
fight the ongoing climate crisis.
Image left: Amber Valetta for Stella McCartney
Winter 2019 Campaign.
27
STELLA McCARTNEY
“HERE & ONLY HERE WE ARE HOME”
CLICK
IMAGE!
Stella McCartney Winter 2019 Campaign Film. Narrated by Jane Goodall with powerful words by author Jonathan Safran
Foer. Starring a cast of change agents, including Extinction Rebellion and Amber Valetta, it’s a call for positive planetary
change from the beautiful Welsh coast. In a time of climate crisis, action is more important than ever.
Director: Johnny Dufort
DOP: Deepa Keshvala
Hair: Gary Gill
Make-up: Thomas De Kluyver
28
SUSTAINABILITY
GET INVOLVED!
WHAT WILL YOU DO TODAY?
#StellaMcCartneyTodayForTomorrow
WE’RE INCREDIBLY EXCITED TO BE LAUNCHING THE FIRST EVER
STELLA McCARTNEY TODAY FOR TOMORROW AWARD, CHAMPI-
ONING THE NEXT GENERATION OF YOUNG ACTIVISTS IN OUR
ONGOING FIGHT AGAINST THE CLIMATE CRISIS.
Of course, the collection itself is was much
of a commitment to change as the campaign.
Up-cycled rainbow dresses made from archival
fabric and horse-print jacquard dresses made
with sustainable viscose all feature, while all
denim is made with organic cotton. Sunglasses
are made from the brand’s biodegradable
bio-acetate and micro bags from ECONYL®
regenerated nylon.
Tori Tsui, a wildlife photographer and XR
representative who models in the campaign,
tells Vogue, “I think there is a mutual understanding
between Extinction Rebellion’s boycott
on fashion and what Stella is trying to
achieve,”. “She understands the climate crisis
and why people are frustrated [with the status
quo]. What the boycott is meant to do is tell
the story of an emergency. We know it won’t
be realistic for everyone [to stop shopping],
but if you can’t boycott fashion entirely, buy
sustainable. If you can’t go vegan, try to eat
less meat. If you can’t stop flying, then offset
your emissions,” she continues. “People like
Stella are achieving a lot just by making these
ideas more mainstream.”
“Stella is using her platform to give us a platform,
and that’s creating a conversation,” adds
Sara Arnold, an XR coordinator whose resume
includes positions at luxury fashion houses.
“That’s the great thing the fashion industry
can do—it’s one of the most polluting industries
in the world, but it’s also one of the most
influential. There are limitations on what it
can do [to address climate change], but I don’t
think there are limitations on how you can use
that platform.”
OUR SUMMER 2020 RUNWAY SHOW IS COMING UP ON SEPTEM-
BER 30TH IN PARIS, AND WE WANT USE IT AS A MOMENT TO
TALK ABOUT ALL OF THE INSPIRING ACTIVISM TAKING PLACE
ACROSS THE WORLD RIGHT NOW. THE AMOUNT OF YOUNG
PEOPLE WHO ARE FIGHTING FOR THE FUTURE OF OUR PLANET
HAS MOVED STELLA, WHICH IS WHY SHE IS LAUNCHING HER
FIRST EVER AWARD TO CELEBRATE A NEW GENERATION OF
CHANGE AGENTS AND ECO-WARRIORS UNDER 25 WHO ARE
KICKING ASS FOR MOTHER EARTH.
THE WINNER OF THE AWARD WILL RECEIVE A MENTORSHIP
PROGRAMME WITH A MEMBER OF THE TEAM AT STELLA McCA-
RTNEY HQ AND A DONATION TO THE ECO OR ANIMAL WEL-
FARE CHARITY OF THEIR CHOOSING, AS WELL AS IMPORTANT
RECOGNITION FOR THEIR VITAL WORK. BUT THIS IS NOT JUST
ABOUT AN AWARD. IT’S ABOUT ALL OF US COMING TOGETHER
LIFT UP EVERY SINGLE PERSON WHO IS MAKING A CHANGE.
EVERY ACTION COUNTS!
ALL YOU HAVE TO DO TO TAKE PART IS UPLOAD A VIDEO
TO INSTAGRAM NOMINATING YOUR CHOSEN PERSON USING
#STELLAMcCARTNEYTODAYFORTOMORROW AND TELL US WHY
THAT PERSON IS SO SPECIAL. BE SURE TO TAG THEM SO WE
CAN FIND THEM.
THE WINNER WILL BE ANNOUNCED SOON, AND WILL BE
JUDGED BY A PANEL OF INSPIRATIONAL PEOPLE. STAY TUNED
FOR MORE!
29
STELLA McCARTNEY
Stella McCartney Sustainability Campaign, 2018.
30
SUSTAINABILITY
STELLA McCARTNEY: INNOVATOR
Bio-engineered spider silk. Mushroom leather. Recycled
ocean plastics. Stella McCartney is designing the future
of clothing and the future of sustainable companies.
RE-INVENTING THE BASE
McCartney says “my intention is to create real change in an
industry that desperately needs it”. Looking ahead at the future
of fashion, McCartney collaborates with organizations like Bolt
Threads, an American biotechnology company creating the
next generation of advanced sustainable materials, and Candiani,
an Italian-based denim manufacturer known as one of
the greenest textile companies, to develop eco and sustainable
materials through technology. All of Stella McCartney’s designs
begin with materials, the following are some of her most
innovative and industry-changing materials to date.
31
STELLA McCARTNEY
32
SUSTAINABILITY
Bolt Threads Mushroom Leather.
MUSHROOM LEATHER
MYLO
In 2018, Stella McCartney and Bolt Threads unveiled a new
bio-material grown from mycelium, an underground root
structure. The first of their products to be created out of the
Mylo material was the iconic Falabella bag which was exhibited
at the Victoria & Albert’s Museum in London. The material
is still in the research and development stage but a large-scale
commercial roll-out is expected.
Mylo looks and feels like hand-crafted leather. It has a soft,
supple, natural feel, and every sheet yields unique variations
in thickness, making each product one-of-a-kind.
Mycelium is composed of billions of cells which form a 3D
mesh on a micro-scale. It forms vast networks of threads that
help recycle organic matter on the forest floor while providing
nutrients to plants and trees. The threads interweave and
self-assemble into a 3D matrix that can spread for miles. It is
vital to our ecosystem and infinitely renewable, which makes
it ideal ingredient for an innovative material like Mylo
This leather-like material is made by combining mycelium cells
with a substrate of corn stalks and nutrients. Over 10 days the
cells grow into the substrate, creating an interconnected mass
that can be made into almost any size. The quality of the resulting
material depends on factors such as environment, nutrients
and how it is tanned. Stella McCartney avoids the use of toxic
chemicals in the dying of Mylo material.
The sustainable material looks and feels like animal leather,
is supple but also strong and abrasive resistant. It grows in a
matter of weeks, compared to animal hide which takes year.
It also has better moisture management than leather. Because
Mylo is made from organic matter, it is completely biodegradable
and non-toxic.
33
STELLA McCARTNEY
34
SUSTAINABILITY
MICROSILK
MICROSILK
Stella McCartney’s dedication to innovation meant they were
always looking for new ways of bringing sustainability into
their design methods while also creating the most beautiful
product possible. This led to a partnership between Stella Mc-
Cartney and Bolt Threads in 2017.
By studying the silk that spiders make, Bolt Threads were able
to understand the relationship between spider DNA and the
characteristics of the fibres they make.
Their technology allows Bolt Threads to replicate these processes
at scale, and create a vegan silk with remarkable properties,
including high tensile strength, elasticity, durability and
softness. Microsilk, is made through a process of fermenting
water, yeast, and sugar with spider DNA. It is warmer than
wool, lightweight, and stronger than silk.
Not only is this method revolutionary, it creates cleaner, closedloop
processes for manufacturing, using green chemistry practices.
It also produces less pollution, creates long-term sustainability
and it is vegan friendly, because it is entirely made from
yeast, sugar and DNA.
While microsilk is still in the research and development stage,
Stella McCartney has used the fabric to create this dress for
the Museum of Modern art.
“On a personal and professional level, partnering with Bolt
Threads is so exciting, because it feels like everything is finally
coming together and the dots are being connected between
fashion, sustainability and tech innovation.”—McCartney.
Image top: Stella McCartney Microsilk dress sketch.
Image center: Bolt Threads Microsilk.
Image bottom: Bolt Threads x Stella McCartney Microsilk dress.
35
STELLA McCARTNEY
36
SUSTAINABILITY
BIODEGRADABLE DENIM
BIODEGRADABLE DENIM
In January 2020, Stella McCartney continued to push its commitment to sustainable fabric
innovation with the introduction of the world’s first biodegradable, stretch denim using plantbased
yarns into its collections.
The innovative denim created by Italian manufacturer Candiani will be introduced in the British
designer’s autumn/winter 2020 collection and utilizes Coreva Stretch Technology, which
is created by using organic cotton wrapped around a natural rubber cord, resulting in a fabric
that is free from plastics and micro-plastics.
By replacing the common synthetic and petrol-based elastomers with a new, custom-engineered
component, Candiani explains that it has been able to create an innovative biodegradable stretch
denim fabric without compromising elasticity.
While all Stella McCartney denim is made with 100 percent organic cotton, traditional denim
production requires a huge volume of water and toxic dyes and chemicals to create one pair of
jeans. The Coreva Stretch Technology is produced in a safe, toxic-free environment.
In addition, the fabric is made with two smart-dyeing techniques during production, explains
Candiani, that reduces the consumption of water, energy and chemicals used in the dyeing and
laundry processes.
Kitotex Vegetal is a patented biodegradable ingredient derived from mushrooms and seaweed
that is used as a replacement for sizing agents, starch, fixation agents and polyvinyl alcohol
(PVA), while Indigo Juice is used to keep the indigo superficial on the yarn.
Stella McCartney’s autumn/winter 2020 collection features 10 pieces in two styles made with
Candiani’s patented, plant-based Coreva Stretch Technology. The pieces will be available instore
and online globally from May 2020.
Stella McCartney Biodegradable Denim.
37
STELLA McCARTNEY
38
SUSTAINABILITY
RE-ENGINEERED CASHMERE
RE.VERSO
Cashmere is one of the most valuable natural materials in fashion
and Stella McCartney is helping to protect the future of
this incredible material by redefining ‘waste’.
With one decision, Stella McCartney reduced their environmental
impact related to cashmere by an incredible 92% (calculated
using the EP&L) by stopping use of virgin cashmere.
Stella McCartney’s knitwear collections are made from Re.Verso,
recycled cashmere made from post-factory cashmere waste
in Italy. This re-engineered cashmere offers the same soft, insulating
qualities as cashmere – just without the environmental
impact associated with animal rearing.
Re.Verso is the first and only platform for re-engineering cashmere
materials for fashion. Cashmere waste from factories is
sorted by hand, which requires a skilled touch to identify the
difference between a variety of different fibres. As the majority
of Re.Verso yarns are not re-dyed, the materials are sorted by
colour and fibre, before being sent for testing to ensures fibre
content and chemical safety. Re.Verso is also GRS (Global
Recycling Standard) certified which ensure that all of the recycling
steps are traceable and verified.
By using this material, Stella McCartney demonstrates their
commitment to making fashion circular, which means an industry
that is restorative and regenerative by design.
Stella McCartney for Net-a-Porter.
Progress . . .
39
Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2018 Campaign.
STELLA McCARTNEY
“IF I DON’T DESIGN THINGS THAT ARE DESIRABLE,
AND SEXY, AND A MUST-HAVE FOR PEOPLE, THEN
IT JUST ENDS UP IN LANDFILLS ANYWAY”
—STELLA McCARTNEY
42
DESIGN
Stella McCartney Pre-fall 2017 Collection.
43
STELLA McCARTNEY
STELLA McCARTNEY
DESIGNER
“Stella’s style has been influential
because she is her customer,” Tom Ford
once said of his younger colleague.
And she obviously agrees: “I’m always
designing what I want to wear,” she
told Vogue in 2004. Some of her most
noteworthy pieces include her Falabella
bag, Elyse shoes, tailored suiting, and
classic pieces made with innovative
processes and materials.
What McCartney has gravitated to over the
years is a mix of Savile Row tailoring, filmy
lingerie, sexy footwear—and a bit of slouch.
As the daughter of a Beatle, McCartney might
be rock royalty, but neither she nor her clothing
has ever stood on ceremony. “It’s not about
what it looks like in the studio or on the runway,”
the designer told WWD. “It’s what it
looks like on a real person that matters. That
isn’t easy, but it’s what’s fun.”
44
DESIGN
THE FALABELLA BAG
EST. 2010
The 100% vegan Falabella bag was launched
as part of Stella’s AW10 collection and, in a
show of serious sartorial staying power, is now
arguably the most popular non-leather handbag
style of all time.
Loved from everyone from Kate Moss to Rihanna,
it’s the rock n roll luxe vibes make it
an enduring classic.
Images: (Stella McCartney, 2020).
45
STELLA McCARTNEY
ELYSE SHOES
EST. 2014
Stella’s shoes are crafted in Italy from a combination of Polyurethane,
Polyester Viscose and Cotton. The Elyse platform
brogues launched in AW14 and are now the bestselling style
for the brand. Season after season The Elyse style has been
made into boots, sandals, sneakers and more but always with
its recognizable platform.
46
DESIGN
SUITING
EST. 2002
Images: (Stella McCartney, 2020).
Stella McCartney is known for sharp tailoring since the brand began. Combining traditional fabrics and
masculine-inspired silhouettes to create timeless tailoring with a twist. Stella’s tailored jackets and classic
trousers will see you through season after season with a natural confidence. It’s about enhancing and
supporting the modern woman throughout day-to-day routines and life on-the-go. The tailoring look is
effortless and can be worn as a seamless daytime look or up-scaled for an evening mood.
47
STELLA McCARTNEY
COLORIFIX DRESS
EST. 2018
Stella McCartney donated another one of her designs, an organic
cotton dress from the Summer 2018 collection, to the
Victoria and Albert Museum. This dress is now a collaboration
between Stella McCartney and Colorifix and became known
as the Colorifix Dress. This design was one of the first to be
sustainably dyed using Colorifix technique which combines
engineered microorganisms and DNA. By isolating the DNA
that creates colour in nature. The DNA is transferred into a
microorganism (a form of bacteria) and the microorganism is
then used to transfer the colour onto a fabric. As a result, Colorifix
use 10 times less water than traditional dyeing processes
and do not use heavy metals, organic solvents or acids.
CLICK
IMAGE!
The future of fashion: Colorifix film. Released April 18, 2018 by the
Victoria and Albert Museum.
48
DESIGN
BIO-ACETATE EYEWEAR
EST. 2019
Stella McCartney Eyewear is a natural extension of the ready-to-wear collections with a modern,
feminine and confident aesthetic. Made with bio-based materials, both sunglasses and optical
eyewear embrace the brand’s sustainable philosophy. The collection is the result of extensive
research into the use of raw materials from natural origins; over 50% of the materials used to
create the eyewear is from natural sources.
Stella McCartney’s 2019 eyewear collection in particular is made without the use of these fossil
fuels, replacing harmful Diethyl Phthalate—derived from petroleum—with innovative bio-acetate.
Made from responsibly harvested wood pulp, this is a natural, renewable and biodegradable
alternative that is better for our ecosystem and the environment. One of the many steps Stella
is taking to cut down on plastics.
CLICK
IMAGE!
The 2019 Stella McCartney Bio-Acetate Eyewear campaign film is a tongue-in-cheek perspective on fossil
fuels with a serious sustainable message.
Progress . . .
49
STELLA McCARTNEY
STELLA McCARTNEY
PRE-FALL 2020
Stella McCartney is a force of fashion. Her pioneering, environmentally
conscious practice has given the industry luxury
laced with mindfulness. “Don’t we know that fashion is trying
to bring beauty into the world?” she asked. “But at the same
time we’re trying to bring the utility side, the wearable side,
and real honesty into the conversation on how we can be more
one with all the world around us, trying to meet our passion,
bringing people together. It really comes from the heart.”
The act of dressing has so many layered meanings; and even
if we’re questioning consumerism, overproduction, and all the
damage fashion is inflicting on the planet, clothes remain powerful
vectors of emotions and memories. They have the power
to cheer us up, to soothe and seduce. “That’s why I wanted to
bring the emotional side back into the collection,” McCartney
said, “and have moments of preciousness, eccentricity, and little
extra touches that make you feel special.”
McCartney’s clothes are great not just because of all the sustainable
game-changing thinking that goes into them. They
express a progressive point of view, creatively balanced between
femininity and practicality, glamour wearability, playfulness
and British cool. “At Stella, we are actually a lot women designing
for women, and there’s a lot of reasoning which goes
into the sourcing and the making,” she said, offering this as
a way of explanation for why people would choose her label.
Pre-fall offered plenty of reasons to chose Stella. Outerwear
looked great, with a play on voluminous sculptural proportions,
on trapeze and cape-like cuts, and with an emphasis on
details, like a sexy black faux-leather trench coat with a detachable
punched and scalloped collar with a romantic-tough edge.
Other little touches included the rounded mismatched buttons
playfully fastening a needle-punched city-coat in blown-up
herringbone and the long, trailing faux-leather fringes gracing
the sleeves of a roomy, sculptural camel coat, giving a sense of
eccentric dynamism. It made for quite a dramatic statement.
A range of sustainable materials added eco-conscious value as
well as creative oomph: organic cotton, sustainable viscose,
recycled nylon and polyester, sustainable viscose and wool, regenerated
cashmere, and vegan leather. New additions included
Koba Fur-Free-Fur, a recycled and recyclable plant-based material
that is so far the most sustainable animal-free fur ever
made. It was used for a white herringbone-patterned coat that
felt heavenly soft to the touch. Sustainable denim was proposed
in a new version called Coreva, the first bio-degradable stretch
denim created from plant-based yarns, free from plastic and
replacing commonly used petrol-based elastomers.
The same conscious approach was obviously extended to the
men’s line, where work-wear-inspired yet polished tailoring
could be shared in a common wardrobe and worn either by
a man or a woman. “I remember that my mom and my dad
shared a wardrobe when I was young,” she said. “I find it inspiring—and
I’ve always borrowed from men.”
52
DESIGN
Images: Stella McCartney Pre-fall 2020 Collection.
(Stella McCartney, 2020).
53
STELLA McCARTNEY
54
DESIGN
Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2016.
55
STELLA McCARTNEY
“IT’S NOT ABOUT WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE IN THE STUDIO OR ON
THE RUNWAY, IT’S WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE ON A REAL PERSON THAT
MATTERS. THAT ISN’T EASY, BUT IT’S WHAT’S FUN”
—STELLA McCARTNEY
Image: Stella McCartney We Are the Weather Capsule Campaign.
56
DESIGN
57
STELLA McCARTNEY
WE ARE THE
What would you do to save the planet?
This is the question that author Jonathan
Safran Foer asks. A long time friend
of Stella, the two collaborated on this
capsule collection in the most simple
and symbiotic way. Taking samples of
his hand writing and embroidering his
poignant words on sharp tailoring and
chunky knits, we’ve brought not only
personal connection to the capsule, but
a rich and emotional story.
WEATHER
COLLECTION BY STELLA McCARTNEY
“ENCODED INTO OUR
LANGUAGE IS THE
UNDERSTANDING THAT
DISASTERS TEND TO
EXPOSE THAT WHICH WAS
PREVIOUSLY HIDDEN. AS
THE PLANETARY CRISIS
UNFOLDS AS A SERIES
OF EMERGENCIES, OUR
DECISIONS WILL REVEAL
WHO WE ARE” ...
It’s not just about feeling good, it’s about doing the right thing.
It’s about caring for nature and for the planet. We shot the
collection with Lee Whittaker and stylist Lee Trigg on an island
where the inhabitants believe that too, living in harmony
with nature, totally off the grid and having as little impact as
possible. The collection itself is made sustainably, using organic
linen and cotton, recycled cashmere (that has a lower environmental
impact than virgin) and sustainable viscose.
It’s not always easy. But we are glass half full about it. We
want to take responsibility and lead the fashion industry. As
Jonathan Safran Foer says, “Be living. Believing.”
“WE CAN CHOOSE TO MAKE
CHANGES, OR WE CAN BE
SUBJECT TO OTHER CHANG-
ES--MASS MIGRATION, DIS-
EASE, ARMED CONFLICT, A
GREATLY DIMINISHED QUALI-
TY OF LIFE--BUT THERE IS NO
FUTURE WITHOUT CHANGE.
THE LUXURY OF CHOOSING
WHICH CHANGES WE PREFER
HAS AN EXPIRATION DATE” ...
58
DESIGN
“IT IS DANGEROUS
TO PRETEND THAT
WE KNOW MORE
THAN WE DO. BUT
IT IS EVEN MORE
DANGEROUS TO
PRETEND THAT WE
KNOW LESS” ...
Images above: Stella McCartney We Are the
Weather Capsule.(Stella McCartney, 2020).
Image left: Stella McCartney We Are the Weather
Capsule Campaign.
59
LARGE OUTSIDE FORCES. BUT RECOGNIZING THAT WE ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PROBLEM IS THE ...
STELLA McCARTNEY
“IF WE DON’T DEMONSTRATE SOLIDARI-
TY THROUGH SMALL COLLECTIVE SACRI-
FICES, WE WILL NOT WIN THE WAR, AND
IF WE DO NOT WIN THE WAR, WE WILL
LOSE THE CHILDHOOD HOME OF EVERY
HUMAN WHO HAS EVER LIVED” ...
“WE BELIEVE THAT THE ENVIRONMENTAL CRISIS IS CAUSED BY LARGE OUTSIDE FORCES AND THEREFORE CAN BE SOLVED ONLY BY
BEGINNING OF TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE SOLUTION” ...
“NO ONE WHO ISN’T US IS GOING TO
DESTROY EARTH, AND NO ONE WHO
ISN’T US IS GOING TO SAVE IT. THE MOST
HOPELESS CONDITIONS CAN INSPIRE
THE MOST HOPEFUL ACTIONS. WE HAVE
FOUND WAYS TO RESTORE LIFE ON
EARTH IN THE EVENT OF A TOTAL COL-
LAPSE BECAUSE WE HAVE FOUND WAYS
TO CAUSE A TOTAL COLLAPSE OF LIFE
ON EARTH. WE ARE THE FLOOD, AND WE
ARE THE ARK” ...
- JONATHAN SAFRAN FOER
60
Images: Stella McCartney We Are the
Weather Capsule Campaign.
61
STELLA McCARTNEY
Image above: Stella McCartney Spring 2020 Lingerie Campaign.
Image right: Stella McCartney Double Mastectomy Bra (Stella McCartney, 2020).
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DESIGN
STELLA McCARTNEY CARES PINK
DOUBLE MASTECTOMY BRA
Stella McCartney Cares Pink is a
platform dedicated to the prevention,
early detection and treatment of breast
cancer through education, awareness
and support; an important cause
incredibly close to Stella’s heart.
Since 2014, Stella McCartney has contributed to Breast Cancer
Awareness through informative global campaigns, donating
proceeds from product featured to leading support centres and
charities worldwide. One of the two primary causes of the
Stella McCartney Cares Foundation, Stella McCartney Cares
Pink is the next step in making a deeper and more comprehensive
contribution, with a focus on patients, survivors and
their loved ones.
In 1998, Stella lost her mother, Linda McCartney, to breast
cancer, experiencing its tragic realities first hand. In the 20
years that have passed, survival rates have grown exponentially,
and she is proud to be campaigning for awareness and supporting
the breast cancer community through positive change.
Through Stella McCartney Cares Pink, Stella hopes to inspire
and inform women and men across the world so that together
we can all make an impact in the fight against cancer.
LOUISE LISTENING BRA
In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month in October 2015,
the designer did good by doing what she does best: helping
women to look and feel confidently beautiful. With the unique
needs of double mastectomy patients in mind, McCartney introduced
a bra that provides all the functionality a woman
needs after the procedure, while offering something far more
rare: a delicate and feminine piece of lingerie that’s deeply attuned
to the emotional impact of the surgery recovery process.
For those who are intimately familiar with the bra alternatives
currently available to post-mastectomy patients—clinical-looking
contraptions in a spare palette of harsh nudes and
whites—it’s a welcome breath of fresh air. Called the Louise
Listening, after Linda McCartney’s middle name, Louise, the
soft blush-color cotton bra with white-lace trim provides compression
for the healing process. A zip front makes it easy to
slip on and off, while the deep-sided, underwire-free design was
calibrated with maximum comfort in mind. Proceeds benefit
the Hello Beautiful Foundation’s efforts to build a center in
London for women with the disease and their families. “Cancer
and mastectomy cannot destroy you, they cannot win,”
McCartney said. “We want to deliver on all fronts by providing
technical support and comfort while women heal, without
sacrificing on style, fashion, femininity, and fit. We wanted to
give all of that to the woman who is battling through this.”
Incorporating feedback from the many women who have tested
the bra, 2018’s modified design includes ultra-soft internal
pockets for use with prosthesis, wide, adjustable straps, and an
extended size range of S—XXL.
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STELLA McCARTNEY
BUY A BRA. DONATE A BRA.
Since 2018 Stella McCartney Cares has been offering the
Louise Listening bra for free through this website. The bra is
shipped around the world without any cost implication for the
recipient, as Stella McCartney believes every woman has the
right feel feminine and supported through this difficult time.
If you would like to gift this feeling to another woman, or you
are able to pay a small sum in return for your Louise Listening
bra, we invite you donate whatever you can to Stella McCartney
Cares to keep this program alive. £25/25 euros/$30 will
cover the production and shipping costs of 1 Louise Listening
bra for a woman in need.
In 2018, 1,000 women received a free Louise Listening bra,
either directly from the foundation or from one of our partner
hospitals. In 2019, the number of bras available to women
around the world increased to 10,000, with more stock available
from stellamccartneycares.org and an increased network
of partner hospitals across the UK.
ADIDAS BY STELLA McCARTNEY BRA
In 2019 Stella introduced the first Adidas by Stella McCartney
post-mastectomy sports bra, helping women bring exercise back
into their lives during recovery. This is now available through
the website, with a portion of the proceeds benefitting vital
breast cancer initiatives through the Stella McCartney Cares
Pink foundation.
“WE WANT TO DELIVER ON ALL FRONTS
BY PROVIDING TECHNICAL SUPPORT AND
COMFORT WHILE WOMEN HEAL, WITHOUT
SACRIFICING ON STYLE, FASHION,
FEMININITY, AND FIT”
“With the Post-Mastectomy Sports Bra, I really wanted to encourage
women to take care of their health through wellness
and self-care. This bra allows us to support recovering patients
through the next phase of their journey, and hopefully give
them the confidence to get back into training. It has a cool
and modern look that will help motivate the wearer, as well
as assuring them, they are not odd one out in the gym,” said
Stella McCartney.
Alongside the launch of the Post-Mastectomy Sports Bra, the
campaign features British professional boxer Michele Aboro,
who is a breast cancer survivor, mother and mentor. Michele is
an inspiration to all women looking to embed sports back into
their lives, and represents the dynamic needs the bra was created
for. “After my surgery I felt lost. As a professional athlete,
I was used to relying on my body but after my mastectomy, I
started to lose belief in myself and how my body would react.
When I was ready to get back into fitness, I couldn’t find a
sports bra that didn’t require being pulled over my head or
lacked in support. Now I wear the Post-Mastectomy Sports
Bra every time I train – it is comfortable and supportive and
has helped me build back my confidence to get back into the
game,” Michele explains.
Image left: Adidas x Stella McCartney.
Images right: Stella McCartney Cares Pink #NoLessAWomen campaign.
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DESIGN
Progress . . .
65
Stella McCartney 2019 Breast Cancer Awareness Campaign starring Michele, a world-champion
boxer, mother, and breast cancer survivor. (Stella McCartney, 2019).
STELLA McCARTNEY
Stella McCartney Pre-fall 2017 Collection. (Stella McCartney, 2017).
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CIRCULARITY
“BY ENSURING THAT OUR PRODUCTS ARE USED FOR THE
ENTIRETY OF THEIR LIFECYCLE IT IS POSSIBLE TO BEGIN
TO SLOW DOWN THE AMOUNT OF NATURAL RESOURCES
CURRENTLY BEING CULTIVATED AND EXTRACTED FROM
THE PLANET FOR THE SAKE OF FASHION”
—STELLA McCARTNEY
Progress . . .
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STELLA McCARTNEY
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CIRCULARITY
Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2018 Campaign.
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STELLA McCARTNEY
STELLA McCARTNEY
INTERIOR DESIGNER
Stella McCartney took her abilities as a designer to new levels
with the London flagship store. The space, described as a
multi-sensory experience, blends architectural design with
recycled materials, nature, and the cleanest air in London.
“Someone said to me recently, ‘What I love
about Stella McCartney is that I go in and
I know you’ve done half of the work for me,
so I don’t have to ask all these questions, like
where was it made, how was it made, was it
sourced correctly, da-da-da…’”, she says. “And
it was something that hadn’t occurred to me
but, you know, women come into my stores or
into my environment and they know that I’ve
already ticked off a lot of the criteria that they
might look for and have to work much harder
to find in other places.”
The great outdoors is also reflected in McCartney’s
state-of-the-sustainable-arts London flagship
store—which she designed herself, with
a soundtrack that includes a three-hour loop
of her father, Paul’s, demo tapes along with a
Bob Roth meditation in the changing rooms.
“The audio is important for me,” she says as
she proudly walks me round it, “because it’s
obviously such a big part of my upbringing.”
There are papier-mâché walls made from “all
of the shredded paper from the office,” along
with a silver birch grove and a moss-covered
rockery of giant granite rocks brought from
the 1,100-acre McCartney family farm on
Scotland’s Mull of Kintyre. “My personality is
this sort of contrast between the hard and the
soft, the masculine and feminine,” says McCartney.
“I wanted to have life in the store—to
bring nature into the experience of shopping,”
she explains as she takes me up in the Stellevator
to the floor where she fitted the Duchess
of Sussex for the glamorous halter-neck dress
she wore for the wedding reception following
her marriage to Prince Harry.
Alongside a passion for sustainability and a
self-confession desire to save the planet, Mc-
Cartney has a more unexpected love—architecture.
She led the design of her store at 23
Old Bond Street —transforming a Grade-II
listed 18th-century building into a shiny
four-storey architectural experience connected
by a raw steel spiral staircase.
The design is filled with references to McCartney’s
parents, and her father even worked
alongside her in its creation.
But she also chose to take a sustainable approach
with every detail, including biodegradable
mannequins made from a bio-plastic material
composed of sugar-cane derivatives and
an Airlabs air-filtration system that provides
the “cleanest air in London”.
Image left: A sculptural spiral raw steel staircase anchors the space at
Stella McCartney’s 23 Old Bond Street store. (Stella McCartney, 2018).
Image right: Inside Stella McCartney’s store. (Stella McCartney, 2018).
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CIRCULARITY
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STELLA McCARTNEY
“I WANTED TO HAVE LIFE IN THE
STORE—TO BRING NATURE INTO
THE EXPERIENCE OF SHOPPING”
Three-foot tall boulders from the family farm in Kintyre, Scotland,
sit on the concrete floors, contrasted against brightly coloured
recycled foam seating, a squidgy orange silicon desk and
reclaimed Venetian wood that serves as shelving.
Paul McCartney’s old vinyl player sits in the menswear department
on the fourth floor, and visitors are invited to play his
records. A soundtrack of unpublished music composed by the
former Beatle is also played through speakers behind mirrors
and from the ceiling above the spiral steel staircase.”Audio has
such weight and magnitude in my life, probably not like for
normal people,” said McCartney.
“I want anyone to come to this store, whether you’re rich, poor,
black, white, old, young, male or female. Anyone can come. I
don’t need you to buy anything, I just want you to come and
experience the store and listen to the music.”
The main focal point of the store, the steel staircase, has caused
much contention among the Stella McCartney team, as it eats
into valuable retail space. She was advised to create a small
staircase to maximize the surface area of her shop floors, but
McCartney pushed back.
“We’ve given up a lot of retail space in the store to create an
architectural experience,” she stated.
“Architecture is a huge passion of mine and I have been the
architect in this process of creating this space. You are only allowed
to do so much architecture in retail because you are limited
in that people have to do a certain amount of shopping.”
Regarding the style of the store’s design, Stella said “There is
a brutalist architectural element to the store with the concrete
and then the rocks, and it’s sort of jarring and unsettling. Then
to see fabric, it’s all mashed up into why I do what I do. I love
brutalist architecture. I’m a big fan of brutalist touch points,
like how this fluted concrete meets the soft floor. Then the
silicon desk, did you feel it? It’s so amazing”.
McCartney hopes that the sustainable elements of her new
store, which slot in around the striking visual elements, will
urge other designers to incorporate environmental thinking
into their work.
“This is not easy for me and these shoulder-padded-shoulders
to do. I’m trying to lead by example, I’m not making a sacrifice
and I’m trying not to preach,” she added. “It’s exhausting full
stop, but we believe it and we do it and we won’t stop.”
Image top: The store references the designer’s upbringing. Boulders
from the family farm in Kintyre, Scotland, sit on the concrete floors
among living moss.
Image bottom: McCartney’s environmental mission influenced the design
of her new London store, which contains bio-plastic mannequins
made from sugar-cane derivatives.
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CIRCULARITY
Progress . . .
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STELLA McCARTNEY
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CIRCULARITY
Stella McCartney Sustainability Campaign, 2018.
STELLA McCARTNEY
STELLA McCARTNEY
LOOP LAB
CLICK
IMAGE!
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CIRCULARITY
Ethical warrior, Stella McCartney shows off
her latest invention with the Loop sneakers.
The Stella McCartney Loop Lab is an exhibition at 23 Old
Bond Street exploring the construction of the new sustainable
Loop Sneaker.
A futuristic space designed to highlight Stella McCartney’s
innovative and recyclable product, encapsulating the brand’s
sustainable and circular ethos.
The sneaker’s design is the result of pioneering innovation and
technology developed over 18 months, an important moment
in Stella McCartney’s sustainability story and journey towards
greater circularity.
Shoes are typically made so that it is nearly impossible to separate
each component and therefore difficult to recycle: the
Loop sneaker is a solution to this problem.
Dynamic and modern, the sneakers demonstrate a new method
of attaching the upper to the sole without glue, using interlocking
clips, similar to Lego, instead and thread. It’s stitched
together using an eco-friendly thread and only uses a small
amount of glue during manufacturing that’s water-based, animal-friendly
and biodegradable. This means that at the end of
the sneaker’s life the upper can be removed from the sole and
each part recycled or reused.
Visuals left: Stella McCartney Loop Lab (Stella McCartney, 2018).
Image below: Loop lab for AnOther Magazine
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STELLA McCARTNEY
THRIFTING
STELLA McCARTNEY
Stella McCartney and The RealReal have joined
forces in the hopes of implementing industry-wide
change on disposable consumption patterns with
a new initiative called “The Future of Fashion is
Circular”, shedding light on a “Make Well, Buy
Well, Resell” model.
The partnership itself is an unprecedented call-to-action in bringing awareness
to the circular economy and is designed to get people to start thinking differently
about fashion. Essentially, this marks the first time a luxury brand is
actively pushing for items to be consigned. By purchasing a quality, sustainable
product that retains value and then reselling it to a buyer or consignment store
like The RealReal once one is done with it, its lifespan increases significantly,
avoids landfills and is placed in the hands of another consumer.
“At Stella McCartney, we have been working for years to ensure that our supply
chains represent some of the most traceable and sustainable in fashion while also
continuing to ensure that our products, which are made to last, have long lives
and never end up as waste,” the designer said in a statement. “This campaign
is about raising the awareness on a circular approach to fashion. We alongside
The RealReal are making the commitment now and we can only hope that
others will follow.”
Indeed, the first-of-its-kind alliance even
includes an incentive for shoppers: They
will receive $100 to shop at Stella McCartney
stores if they consign any Stella Mc-
Cartney item to The RealReal.
Wainwright tells me the idea first came
about during talks with Kering, the
French conglomerate who recently sold
their 50% stake in Stella McCartney back
to McCartney herself. “I started talking to
Kering about this a long time ago because
they have sustainability in their platform
and they’re really trying to understand the
role of resale and how that fits into their
fashion cycle,” says Wainright. When she
then spoke with Stella, the two immediately
shared an understanding and knew
they had to work together.
“Now look, new is not going to go away. We don’t want it to go away. But I
think it’s just starting to think ‘Do I need to buy everything new or can I buy
some things in the secondary market,’ not just for fashion but for your home,
jewelry... You get a really good value when you buy secondary. If you just leave
a portion of your purchasing for it you’re going to help the planet immensely,”
she adds.
The initiative also lays the groundwork for other luxury brands, who have traditionally
been hesitant towards consignment, to emulate a similar program that
encourages a circular model. “It sounds risky I’m sure because they don’t really
fully embrace or understand that a strong secondary market really does support
the primary market,” says Wainwright. “I think it’s so scary because they’re not
reselling their own goods so they could feel that this will take away from their
market share. But here is what we’ve found in a lot of data at the Kering Group
in particular but also LVMH and their interest is that once people start buying
on our site or consigning, they’re really conscious of what that resell value is and
it can inform their purchases in the primary market. We’ve never had anyone
slow down their buying of new. They supplement their buying on our site and
they tend to buy things that they know they can resell,” she concludes.
On the partnership, Stella said, “Sustainability is important to us and I’m
excited to be partnering with the RealReal on this new sustainable program.
We believe that consignment, and re-commerce can play a significant part in
reducing the amount of raw materials that are required each year from our
planet. This is key in our commitment to becoming part of a more circular
economy. By ensuing that our products are used for the entirety of their lifecycle
it is possible to begin to slow down the amount of natural resources currently
being cultivated and extracted from the planet for the sake of fashion”.
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CIRCULARITY
CLICK
IMAGE!
Stella McCartney x The RealReal Campaign Film.
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STELLA McCARTNEY
STELLA McCARTNEY
MISSION SUSTAINABLE
CLICK
IMAGE!
Campaign video for the launch of Stella McCartney’s World of Sustainability, a platform entirely
dedicated to telling you about their sustainable practices and journey to operating as a modern and
responsible business. Released January 29, 2018.
Film shot by contemporary photographer Viviane Sassen, with poetry by Maria Barnas.
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Follow hooves up the hill
becoming hills and then sliding valleys,
up up through the rippling sand
and soon we are rushing as one body
gathering speed with wind rustling
through our hair, blowing in all directions.
I catch my breath between the clouds
gushing towards the mountains
over the trees and clouds in me.
How their hues and contours brighten.
I feel the grip of my hand tighten
around a stone I found at a bend
in the river. I am holding on to forms
of a past, a certain shape
of the future, showing the way.
TO NURTURE TO NATURE
A POEM BY MARIA BARNAS
The trees like to loose their contours
to ease into pure being. I wonder
what exists beyond their names and variations.
They seem to know and sway
in a silence that becomes bristling:
a single word in my hand.
“HOW CAN I KEEP
THIS ALIVE?”
There is a melody in the slow beckoning
of their branches, a movement
you may remember: rattling a stick
along a park’s fence, bouncing a clear voice
off the cars passing by, clunking a bag
packed with future, one heart two hearts
pounding against the humming
of the sky, humming.
How can I keep all this alive?
I am not sure how to swim
exactly in the perfect water
that opens up before me
clear and unclear as time.
I open my hand and see water
thrive, a precious stone, a promise
to keep. This is what I carry
as the purest sky and why
I spread my arms and dive.
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STELLA McCARTNEY
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STELLA McCARTNEY
WE ARE AGENTS OF CHANGE. WE CHALLENGE AND PUSH BOUNDARIES TO MAKE LUX-
URIOUS PRODUCTS IN A WAY THAT IS FIT FOR THE WORLD WE LIVE IN TODAY AND THE
FUTURE: BEAUTIFUL AND SUSTAINABLE. NO COMPROMISES.
Progress . . .
88
GIF by Maxwell Paternoster for Stella
McCartney’s Winter 2020 Collection.