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to divine status. The royal family of<br />
Udaipur continue this tradition with<br />
an annual puja ceremony, in which<br />
the Maharana of the time blesses the<br />
heads of his Marwari with tilak paste,<br />
in gratitude for their role in the<br />
monarchy's survival.<br />
Maharaj Narendra Singh, a top<br />
breeder of Marwari since 1972, hosts<br />
the Chetak Horse Show at Haldighati,<br />
which creates a demand for his stud,<br />
promotes equestrian tourism, and<br />
increases international awareness of<br />
the breed. On my arrival at his stud,<br />
negotiations were under way with a<br />
visiting breeder for the Maharaj's<br />
stallion to cover a mare, for which he<br />
pocketed an easy 11,000 rupees<br />
(£130). Later, I joined other guests for<br />
an evening ride through green fields<br />
worked by women in red saris, who<br />
secured their veils with one hand as<br />
they looked up.<br />
A Hindu groom traditionally<br />
arrives at his wedding on horseback.<br />
Marwari can be trained to dance for<br />
ceremonies, but, generally, a groom's<br />
choice depends on colour rather than<br />
breed; an albino stallion is often<br />
considered the most auspicious. Arun<br />
Nayar chose a dark bay Marwari for<br />
his nuptials at the Umaid Bhawan<br />
Palace in Jodhpur, one of 25 hired<br />
from Dr Ajeet Singh, who follows in<br />
his father's footsteps as a breeder. He<br />
told me he wants to increase the<br />
quality of the breed in his area:<br />
'Villagers can't afford cover from<br />
good stallions, so I charge only a<br />
nominal fee (about £6).'<br />
The British recognised the<br />
warlike trait instilled in young Rajput<br />
men, and recruited them for their<br />
colonial army. The last military action<br />
that they and their Marwari horses<br />
participated in was the Battle of<br />
Megiddo at Haifa in 1918, when,<br />
under General Allenby, the Jodhpur<br />
Lancers led a brave charge against<br />
Turkish machine-gun fire.<br />
At his family home at Kotri,<br />
Thakur Mahendra Singh Ghanerao<br />
reminded me how quickly times have<br />
changed. 'My grandfather used to<br />
TOURISM<br />
have 500 horses. He had his own<br />
police and army, so he needed them.'<br />
Every noble family had to keep horses<br />
for battle call-up. Following<br />
independence in 1947, most of their<br />
land was given to the landless, and the<br />
withdrawal of the Privy Purse meant<br />
costs became prohibitive. With no<br />
battles to fight, and changing<br />
transport means, the Marwari became<br />
redundant.<br />
The British in India preferred<br />
their own Thoroughbreds, and also<br />
imported Whalers from Australia.<br />
Durga Singh Mandawa suggests why:<br />
'You need to make friends with the<br />
Marwari first before training it. For<br />
the British, this wasn't in their nature<br />
or will.' The Marwari were shot,<br />
castrated, or given away to farmers. In<br />
November <strong>2007</strong> ✦ <strong>Pravasi</strong> <strong>Today</strong><br />
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