FT156.DORDOGNE
GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNETHE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONSThe lure ofPÉRIGORDThe château and villageof Castelnaud-la-Chapelleoverlooks the River Céou,a tributary of the DordogneLa Dordogne: an ancient realm wheredark rivers sweep under limestone cliffsand medieval hilltop villages emerge fromlush dense forest; where a cornucopiaof local produce has created a rich andabundant gastronomic heritage; wherethe extraordinary legacy of prehistoriccave art contrasts with the sublimearchitecture of grand Renaissancechâteaux; where today’s traveller can stayfor a week, a month, a season and nevergrow jaded. Guy Hibbert explores... ❯❯IMAGE © JONATHAN BARBOT34 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 35
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GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS
The lure of
PÉRIGORD
The château and village
of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
overlooks the River Céou,
a tributary of the Dordogne
La Dordogne: an ancient realm where
dark rivers sweep under limestone cliffs
and medieval hilltop villages emerge from
lush dense forest; where a cornucopia
of local produce has created a rich and
abundant gastronomic heritage; where
the extraordinary legacy of prehistoric
cave art contrasts with the sublime
architecture of grand Renaissance
châteaux; where today’s traveller can stay
for a week, a month, a season and never
grow jaded. Guy Hibbert explores... ❯❯
IMAGE © JONATHAN BARBOT
34 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 35
GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS
The Périgord, to use the old name for
the modern French department
number 24, the Dordogne, is a
multi-faceted jewel of a region in
South-West France, where the sun is
high enough to make for warm humid
summers, sunny dry autumns, short sharp winters and
lush verdant springtimes.
Many people claim to know the Dordogne but when
you challenge them on their knowledge, it turns out
they know their favourite patch well, but have only
been to one or two towns and villages beyond – in
other words, they have formed their opinion too early.
To discover all that this grand region has to offer
requires time and imagination, to venture away from
the tourist hot-spots, to meander a little off the beaten
track, to allow time to linger and create your own
memorable experiences.
‘DORDOGNESHIRE’
The British have a long association with the Dordogne,
and fought over it often during the Hundred Years’ War
in the 14th and 15th centuries. By contrast, today’s
Brits are more likely to be seen fighting over an old
property for sale, enjoying the sensual delights of a
summer market or canoeing down a river. So popular
has the region proved with expats that national
‘Dordogneshire’ and if your only experience is passing
through Bergerac airport or visiting the pretty town of
Eymet then you might think that this reputation has
been well earned.
It’s no surprise the British love the area – it reminds
them of the more picturesque parts of England, say the
Cotswolds, but with less crowds and better weather.
But it would be a great mistake to label the Dordogne
in this clichéd manner. Nostalgia for pastoral idylls is a
powerful draw for many travellers, not just the British,
and this is a corner of France that can deliver a heady
antidote to the stress of busy lives, giving a taste of
what has often been lost in more densely populated
parts of the world. Like an actor who happens to be
excellent at a certain role, there is always a danger of
typecasting – but the reality is that la Dordogne is a
star with a diverse portfolio ready to be revealed, if you
know how and where to look.
Take a moment to consider the Dordogne ‘by
numbers’ and you will begin to appreciate its scale and
diversity. It’s actually the third largest département
in France and can easily take two and a half hours to
cross by road from one border to another. And no
wonder its river-based activities are legendary because
it has over 500 kilometres of navigable waterways,
including the mighty Dordogne, the Vézère, Isle and
Dronne. All this space is beautifully green: of the 557
communes, 497 are rural. The tourism office is rightly
newspaper journalists in the UK enjoy referring to golden and ochre medieval buildings cast deep ❯❯
IMAGES © GUY HIBBERT, JONATHAN BARBOT, OT DE PÉRIGUEUX
proud of the fact that they have 190 different sites
and monuments open to visitors, including 70 or so
museums, no fewer than 10 of France’s listed villages,
15 UNESCO World Heritage prehistoric sites, over 250
hotels, a similar number of campsites and literally
thousands of gîtes and country properties for rental.
No wonder three million tourists come to the Dordogne
every year.
And yet there is space for them all. Because, aside
from its supremacy in numbers, the Dordogne is big
enough to offer a charming diversity of landscapes,
attractions and activities to cater for most tastes and
to allow people to join in the action or be an escapist,
as the mood dictates.
THE FOUR COLOURS OF PÉRIGORD
Some years ago the tourist authorities hit upon a
distinct way of naming some of the territories within
the département – the so called four Périgords, the
Noir, Pourpre, Blanc and Vert (black, purple, white and
green). Unlike some more fanciful labels these labels
are actually quite handy to get your bearings and they
allow the visitor to get a sense of what lies beyond the
hotspot destinations. Having lived and travelled in the
Dordogne I can vouch for the aptness of the names.
Périgord Noir lies in the southeast and contains that
most quintessential of Dordogne towns, Sarlat, where
Clockwise from top left:
Much of the beauty of the
Dordogne is that it is in great
part very well preserved;
tranquility is never hard to
find; and commercial life is
much as it has ever been; the
Montpazier medieval festival;
le Château de Bridoire; view
over the rooftops of Périgueux
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GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS
© ALAMY
Sarlat is beautiful, but
for those in the know,
it is just one of many
beautiful places in the
Dordogne
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GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW
“FIND INSPIRATION IN THE
‘VALLÉE DE LA PRÉHISTOIRE’,
AN UNRIVALLED LOCATION
FOR CAVES, CAVERNS AND
UNDERGROUND TREASURES”
which tell terrible tales of the battles of the Hundred
Years’ War.
The central Dordogne, to the north of Bergerac,
is named the Périgord Blanc, because of the calcaire,
the bright limestone that underlies the gentle rolling
hills and valleys of open farmland and supplies the
characteristic white stone for many buildings, including
many striking Romanesque churches. The capital of
the Dordogne, Périgueux, with its spectacular
Romanesque cathedral and quaint vieille ville (great
for shopping), is situated in this department, as is the
country town of Ribérac, where a very popular market
takes place every Friday.
To the northeast of the department lies the Périgord
Vert, bordering on the Limousin, where green chestnut
and oak forests are interspersed with cattle-grazing
pastures. Visitors here head for the picturesque
town of Brantôme, with its medieval abbey in white
limestone, and the lovely village of Bourdeilles, with
its château to visit and where a picnic by the gentle
Dronne river is one of my favourite days out.
AD PAGE
The Dordogne is full of weird
and wonderful castles, such as
Montfort, each with its own
extraordinary tales to tell
IMAGE © MATHIEU ANGLADA
cooling shadows over immensely picturesque cobbled
streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants
serving an endless array of local gastronomic
specialities – avoiding duck on the menu is simply not
an option. Visit Sarlat in the evening to appreciate the
romantic lighting and special ambience. Périgord Noir
is also home to the Vézère valley with its magnificent
networks of underground caves and grottoes, and the
Dordogne valley with its magnificent châteaux on their
pinnacles overlooking the broad, shining river below.
This is the heart of the Dordogne that many tourists
know and love and return to summer after summer.
BASTIDE TOWNS
To the west lies Périgord Pourpre, so named from the
colour of the grape, as this is home to the lovely city of
Bergerac (of Cyrano fame), surrounded by vineyards
producing the much-appreciated Bergerac Blancs and
Rouges, with the sweet wines of Monbazillac grown to
the south of the city and less well-known reds such as
AOC Pécharmant to the east. Périgord Pourpre also
encompasses the numerous fascinating 13th-century
bastide towns such as Monpazier and Beaumont-du-
Périgord with their unique grid layout and fortifications
PREHISTORIC MARVELS
Now you’ve got your bearings, the question is, in which
direction to head first? Of course this all depends on
your priorities. But for starters almost everyone can
find inspiration in the ‘Vallée de la Préhistoire’, an
unrivalled location for caves, caverns and underground
treasures. With 147 sites, 15 of which are UNESCO
World Heritage listed, there’s scope for everyone, but
atop the many archaeological wonders sits the ‘Sistine
Chapel of Prehistory’, the wonderful Lascaux cave
network with its extraordinary cave paintings, first
discovered by four teenagers back in 1940. The year
2016 brings exciting developments for Lascaux, with
the opening of The Centre International d’Art Pariétal
Montignac-Lascaux (or Lascaux 4), a grand scheme
blending contemporary architecture and design which
will offer a full reproduction of the Lascaux cave
thanks to new virtual reality and image technology.
Beyond Lascaux there are plenty of other underground
attractions including the original cave paintings at
Font-de-Gaumes, Les Eyzies, the unusually beautiful
geological formations at the Gouffre de Proumeyssac
and Maxange caves or the chance to go pot-holing at
the Grotte de Beaussac.
CHÂTEAUX AND VILLAGES
Above ground, more traditional but equally uplifting
architecture awaits, because the Dordogne has more
than its fair share of châteaux to visit. From early
fortified castles such as the cave fortress at Reignac ❯❯
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GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS
A FOODIE HEAVEN
Blessed with fertile soils, enough rain to irrigate and plenty of warm sun to ripen its produce,
the Dordogne offers an extravagant palate of local produce to tempt you.
Dordogne strawberries are hard to beat (buy them from
any market and be sure to eat them the same day!) Sweet
and fragrant, with many varieties to choose from – they
even have their own website at www.fraiseduperigord.com
Walnuts are a Dordogne speciality, with Appellation
d’Origine Contrôlée status. You’ll enjoy them on a classic
Périgordine salad – or even better, take back some walnut
oil to dress your salads at home.
Black truffles are a local speciality highly prized by chefs
for their delicate, aromatic, yet earthy flavour. The truffles are
harvested from December to February and sold in markets at
very high prices.
Foie gras can divide opinion but there’s no getting away from
its status in the Dordogne, where the duck and goose varieties
are served in nearly all restaurants as an appetiser or cooked
as part of a gastronomic main course.
Duck features in many shapes and forms within Périgordine
cuisine, served as rillettes (a kind of pâté) on toast as a starter
or cooked as magrets (grilled breast with a sauce) or confits
(preserved in fat, served crispy).
and the imperious heights of Beynac and Castelnaud
to the Renaissance masterpieces of Jumilhac and
Milandes, which was built by the Lord of Caumont for
his wife in 1489 but became much more famous in the
last century as the home of chanteuse Josephine Baker
and her children.
On a much more modest scale, but no less appealing,
are the typical golden-stoned blue-shuttered villages of
the Dordogne. The greatest claims to fame lies in the
fact that no less than ten of the plus beaux villages de
France are scattered throughout the department. In
fact, the Dordogne is home to the largest number of
listed villages in France. Situated 20km from Sarlat,
Saint-Amand-de-Coly nestles between two wooded
valleys and is famous for its 12th-century abbey. In the
Périgord Vert, Saint-Jean-de-Côle’s history is linked
with that of the Château de la Marthonie, which
dominates its main square, while the typical village
of Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère between Montignac and
Les Eyzies boasts no fewer than three castles. Other
villages include Limeuil (overlooking the confluence
of the Dordogne and Vézère), Monpazier, La Roque-
Gageac, Belvès, Domme, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle and
Beynac-et-Cazenac.
IMAGES © JONATHAN BARBOT, CHAMBRE AGRIC. DORDOGNE, SYND. PROF. NOIX DU PÉRIGORD, CP ECOMUSÉE DE LA TRUFFE
SUMMERTIME FUN – FOR
CHILDREN OF ALL AGES
The summer season delivers maximum value for family
holidaymakers with over a hundred events and
activities focused on the younger tourists. Under the
seductive heat of the Périgord sun there are plenty
of activities to entertain the kids. After they have
exhausted the pleasures of family canoeing why not
give them a little education about ancient history at
the Prehistory Labyrinth, opening in 2016, where they
become explorers for a day. Or visit the Isle river near
Jumilhac for a spot of gold-panning. For a theme park
with a gentle French country vibe try Le Bournat
(www.lebournat.fr). And don’t forget that many
châteaux stage activities and displays with falconry,
jousting and medieval street fairs to enjoy.
Anyone looking for more active pastimes is well
catered for – the département offers numerous
canoeing, kayaking, cycling and hiking trails for all
standards, some, such as the Cro-Magnon Footpath,
follow in the footsteps of prehistoric man. Organise
your own ad hoc expedition or join in one of the
many organised events. There truly is something
for everybody – vintage costume and bicycle fans,
for example, should not miss the retro cycle rally
leaving from Monbazillac in August.
MORE UNEXPECTED PLEASURES
TO BE DISCOVERED
But often the charm of the Dordogne lies in the
unexpected. You are driving or cycling and en route
you take a wrong turn and find yourself in a little
village which wasn’t recommended and hasn’t won any
accolades. But as you look around your mystery village
there’s an irresistible ambience – you have stumbled
into a haven where time appears to have stood still
for centuries. So you stop for a leisurely déjeuner in
a sleepy café and admire the sun filtering through the
canopy of an ancient plane tree in the square. You
exchange some friendly words with the waiter and
watch a couple of old gents sitting and chatting on a
bench near the fountain. On a crumbling ochre wall
you notice the faded blue and white painted lettering
advertising a long forgotten liqueur while at the foot of
the wall a cat stretches lazily in the spring sunshine. In
other words, you slow down, and you let the Dordogne,
this rich and magically diverse region, fold its warming
arms around you. FT
❯❯
Montignac is home to the
world-famous Lascaux caves
and their prehistoric art
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GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW
A DOZEN OF THE FINEST DORDOGNE CHÂTEAUX
This is a land of castles with any number of grand houses to visit. Here is our selection of the best
The fascinating history of the Dordogne from medieval to modern times is brought to life by the grandeur and
mystique of some of its splendid châteaux. When you visit these medieval fortresses, Renaissance palaces and grand
family estates you will encounter a rich tapestry, revealing accounts of love and war, ambition and tragedy, fairy-tale
romance and escapism. Here is our selection – but many more fine examples await travellers looking for inspiring
architecture and remarkable stories from days of yore.
CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC
This imposing fortified castle sitting
on a dramatic clifftop location
overlooking the River Dordogne has
seen almost a thousand years of
history played out against its stone
walls and courtyards. It is one of the
best-preserved in the region.
www.beynac-en-perigord.com
CHÂTEAU DE CASTELNAUD
In the heart of the Périgord Noir this
is a medieval fortress with a military
history. In keeping with its past life,
today it houses a museum of medieval
warfare. Enactments of Cathar history
take place on Monday, Tuesday and
Wednesday evenings in summer.
www.castelnaud.com
CHÂTEAU DE MILANDES
A beautiful 15th-century castle in the
heart of the Dordogne valley, made
most famous by former owner the
American chanteuse Josephine Baker,
who lived here with her 12 adopted
children. Famed for its birds of prey
displays during the summer.
www.milandes.com
CHÂTEAU DE BRIDOIRE
A beautiful 15th-century château near
Bergerac, once neglected but now
happily in private hands and
undergoing a small renaissance. Many
restored and furnished rooms to view
as well as medieval-style games.
Popular with families.
www.chateaudebridoire.com
CHÂTEAU DE HAUTEFORT
Closer in appearance to a Loire
château, the golden age of this
majestic building in the north of the
Dordogne was during the time of the
Marquis de Hautefort in the 16th and
17th centuries. The beautiful formal
gardens are a must-see.
www.chateau-hautefort.com
CHÂTEAU DE MONBAZILLAC
Here, just south of Bergerac on a
proud hilltop, you can combine a
pleasant dégustation of the famous
dessert wines with a visit to the small
yet impressive château with
Renaissance interiors and views
over the vineyards.
www.chateau-monbazillac.com
CHÂTEAU DE BIRON
Near Monpazier, in the south of the
Dordogne, this dramatic château from
the 12th century is perched on a
hillside overlooking the Périgord and
Agenais countryside. Visitors will
appreciate its many beautiful
architectural features.
www.bergerac-tourisme.com
CHÂTEAU DE JUMILHAC
The Château de Jumilhac is to be
found in the north of the Dordogne,
on the route of Richard the
Lionheart. With its picturesque
turreted Renaissance roofline this
imposing château strikes visitors as
the quintessential romantic castle.
www.jumilhac.net
CHÂTEAU DE PUYGUILHEM
A Renaissance jewel in the north of
the region, Puyguilhem is an elegant
building with classic proportions and
Loire-esque turreted rooflines. Hard
to believe it was once abandoned
until the French state intervened in
the 20th century.
www.chateau-puyguilhem.fr
CHÂTEAU DE BOURDEILLES
The site of one of the four barronies
of the Périgord, this is an impressive
château with a spectacular tower
overlooking the River Dronne in
the north of the Dordogne near
Brantôme. The château and
surrounding village are worth a visit.
www.tourisme-perigueux.fr
CHÂTEAU DE LANQUAIS
In the Périgord Pourpre, this château
dates from the Middle Ages but also
boasts some fine work by Italian
craftsmen who later helped transform
some parts of it into a Renaissance
palace. It has been owned by the
same family since 1732.
www.chateaudelanquais.fr
CHÂTEAU DE SAUVEBOEUF
Only opened to the public in 2013,
this is a Louis XIII château overlooking
the River Vézère not far from the
Lascaux caves. The owner will often
be on hand to share his special
interest in prehistoric artefacts.
www.chateau-de-sauveboeuf.jimdo
.com
© OT INTERCOMMUNAL DE PÉRIGORD NOIR, CH. DE BRIDOIRE, PAYS DES BASTIDES, SÉMITOUR PÉRIGORD, M BOUTRY, OT CH. D’HAUTEFORT, CH. DE JUMILHAC, CH. DE LANQUAIS, JONATHAN BARBOT, CH. DE MONBAZILLAC, OT PÉRIGORD DRONNE BELLE/FRÉDÉRIC TISSIER, CH. DE SAUVEBOEUF
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GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW
CANOEING
The Dordogne is France’s leading
département for recreational canoeing,
whatever your age or ability. Visitors
can explore the delightful valleys of
the Dordogne, Vézère, Isle and Dronne
from spring right the way through to
the autumn.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN THE DORDOGNE
We highlight here some of the more popular activities, attractions and places to visit in the region
To find out more
about other sites
and things to do visit
www.francetoday
.com/travel
Canoeing is one of the great
recreational activities of the Dordogne
CYCLING
Hire bikes and follow cycling trails
throughout the department or join
in ‘Vélo Paradiso’ – the big cycling
event of summer 2016 (20 & 21
August) to add some theatre and
gastronomy to your cycling experience
in the Périgord.
HIKING
For serious hikers or more sedate
strollers there’s plenty on offer. Do
it the French way and follow the
‘randonnées’ footpaths past tranquil
orchards and riversides. Or try
your hand at ‘off-route’ hiking in the
prehistoric cliffs of the Vézère valley.
rando.dordogne.fr
www.walkingdordogne.com
CAVES
Lascaux Cave
Opening in late 2016 is the Centre
International d’Art Pariétal de
Montignac – also known as Lascaux
4 – the latest exciting development
which confirms Lascaux, home of
the world-famous Palaeolithic cave
paintings, as a must-see attraction
for any visitors to the Dordogne.
The ancient cave paintings of Lascaux
are a must-see attraction
A major tourist destination, and a heaven for foodies, Sarlat is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns in all France
www.projet-lascaux.com/en/lascaux-4
www.lascaux.culture.fr
Gouffre de Proumeyssac
Here, at what is the largest
underground cave in Périgord,
visitors can get up close to the
beautiful crystalline rock formations
with ambient lighting, or ride in a
suspended gondola to recreate the
experience of the original discoverers
of the cave back in 1907.
www.gouffre-proumeyssac.com
Musée National de Préhistoire
Located in the heart of the great
pre-historic sites of the Vézère,
this museum, with its striking new
contemporary building, is a genuine
treasure trove of artefacts and
captivating presentations on mankind’s
earliest ancestors.
www.musee-prehistoire-eyzies.fr
GARDENS
Les Jardins d’Eau
Think Monet’s garden in the
Dordogne! Here, in three hectares of
lush gardens and semi-tropical ponds
near Sarlat, visitors will discover a
gardening oasis specialising in water
lilies and lotuses. Top tip: accept the
free Chinese paper umbrella to
ward off the hot sun!
www.jardinsdeau.com
Head out of Sarlat to find tranquility in
the Water Gardens
Jardins de Marqueyssac
Ever popular, this is a rather magical
and romantic garden overlooking
the Dordogne river with spectacular
topiary garden and shady walkways.
A summer highlight is to visit on
Thursday evenings in July or August
when the gardens are candlelit.
www.marqueyssac.com
TOWNS AND VILLAGES
Périgueux
Stroll or pick up souvenirs in the
quaint streets and markets of the
vieille ville, admire the Romanesque
cathedral, visit the Art and
Archaeology museum or the Gallo-
Roman Museum Vesunna for a
fascinating glimpse into history.
www.tourisme-perigueux.fr
Bergerac
Cyrano’s town sits right on the
Dordogne river and a boat trip on
a gabarre is always popular. Meander
through the beautifully preserved
town centre and stop for lunch to
enjoy Périgordine cuisine with a drop
of the famous Bergerac wine.
www.bergerac-tourisme.com
Sarlat
No trip to the Dordogne is complete
without a visit to the incomparably
charming golden-stoned city of Sarlat.
Take a daytime guided tour to discover
the secret coins of the medieval
quarter or eat out in the evening
to savour the special atmosphere.
www.sarlat-tourisme.com
Bergerac is a good place to stay,
and another great place to dine out
EVENTS CALENDAR
There’s always something to see and
do in the Dordogne, especially during
the summer months. Be sure to check
out the many art and music festivals,
concerts, markets, châteaux attractions,
creative workshops and fun activities
on offer for 2016.
www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr
© APA ST-LÉON, OT SARLAT, PAYS DE BERGERAC, SÉMITOUR, JARDINS D’EAU, GUY HIBBERT
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GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT IN THE DORDOGNE
The best restaurants and hotels in the region, some of which are even in the same house
TOP RESTAURANT SELECTION
Charbonnel, Brantôme
Getting rave reviews and giving the
nearby Moulin de l’Abbaye a run for
its money.
www.lesfrerescharbonnel.com
L’Imaginaire, Terrasson
The French are flocking to eat the
new menus prepared by rising star
chef Julien Dayre.
www.l-imaginaire.fr
Michelin-starred dining with spectacular
views at La Tour des Vents
La Tour de s Vents, Monba zillac
Sumptuous cuisine, impeccable service,
a panoramic view over the city of
Bergerac… What’s not to like?
www.tourdesvents.com
Les Jardins d’Harmonie, Sarlat
Fresh Périgordine produce prepared
and cooked with flair and imagination.
The hot ticket in a city with a huge
choice of tables.
www.lesjardinsdharmonie.com
Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat
Summer dining on the terrace is
a must at this Relais et Châteaux
establishment which gets five-star Trip
Advisor reviews.
www.vieux-logis.com
Les Glycines,
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac
Refined, contemporary dining with an
emphasis on local ingredients gives this
former relais de poste its reputation.
www.les-glycines-dordogne.com
L’Essentiel, Périgueux
People come here for a special lunch
or dinner. Eric Vidal has held his
Le Mas de Castel, a quiet getaway hotel
minutes from busy Sarlat
La Chartreuse du Bignac, part of a new generation of hotels that offer comfort and service in tranquil locations
Michelin star since 2008.
www.restaurant-perigueux.com
L’Imparfait, Bergerac
Sit outside on a warm day and soak
up the ambience as you eat classic
French dishes with a twist at this
Bergerac stalwart.
www.it-savee.co.uk/wp
TOP HOTEL SELECTION
Les Glycines,
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac
Old coaching inn with a contemporary
design twist, restaurant (see left), spa,
pool and bistro – the best place to
stay near Les Eyzies.
www.les-glycines-dordogne.com
Périgordine cuisine comes rustic and
robust or with Michelin stars
La Chartreuse de Bignac,
Monbazillac
A beautifully restored property
perched on a stunning hillside location,
with pool and restaurant – here it’s all
about relaxation.
www.abignac.com
Le Mas de Montet, Petit-Bersac
French Renaissance château with
wonderful bedrooms and lounges, a
huge pool and a pleasant restaurant.
www.lemasdemontet.com
Château de Lalande
Charming and elegant rooms await
you in this impressive 18th-century
château not far from Périgueux.
Terraces, gardens, pool and gourmet
dining, it has it all.
www.chateau-lalande-perigord.com
La Roseraie, Montignac
Visit in May to experience the best
of the wonderful rose gardens, or any
time of year for country charm on the
banks of the Vézère.
www.laroseraie-hotel.com
Le Moulin du Roc,
Champagnac-de-Belair
Stylishly converted mill not far from
Brantôme. Dining in the romantic
restaurant or on the riverside terrace
adds to the appeal.
www.moulinduroc.com
DORDOGNE ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
BY TRAIN
TGV stations in Angoulême, Bordeaux
and Libourne • TER stations in
Périgueux, Bergerac, Sarlat and
elsewhere.
BY CAR
Périgueux-Paris: 550km • Périgueux-
Lyon on the A8: 400km • Périgueux-
Bordeaux on the A89: 120km
BY PLANE
Bordeaux airport, Bergerac airport,
Brive airport
Discover a riverside haven of roses and
romance at La Roseraie
Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat
Elegance and bucolic charm
throughout the house and gardens,
and a top-notch restaurant (see left).
www.vieux-logis.com
Le Mas de Castel, Sarlat
A bit of a find. Affordable and
comfortable rooms close to Sarlat.
Heated swimming pool a bonus.
www.hotel-lemasdecastel.com
Dordogne
© LA TOUR DES VENTS, LA ROSERAIE, LA CHARTREUSE DU BIGNAC, GUY HIBBERT
48 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016