Wanderlust Travel Magazine
A project concerning a small travel magazine exploring Bolivia.
A project concerning a small travel magazine exploring Bolivia.
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BOLIVIA
features 14
wanderlus TRAVERSING
While less famous, the Bolivian side of the Amazon
rain forest is just as beautiful. Less crowded and
more personal, join us as we head upriver from
Rurrenabaque and explore a disappearing natural
beauty before it’s completely gone.
18 38
This issue, our cover feature is Salar de Uyuni, also
known as the Bolivian Salt Flats. The largest in the
world, they feature stunning vistas year round, from
a natural mirror of water in the summers to a stark,
cloudless sky against white salt in the winter. Truly, a
brilliant sight to behold.
60
68
table of contents
Isla del Sol, known for its ties to the ancient Inca
empire, is a traveling destination for many. Located
on the shores of Lake Titicaca, it’s a hot spot of both
culture and leisure.
departments
5
8
24
54
letter to the editor
Our editor gets us started on our
tour of Bolivia, and gives us the lay
of the land.
inventory
We tell you what to take with you
on your trip throughout the country,
from snacks to passports.
travelers
We give you the lay of the land,
along with several tourist destinations
and general facts.
scenery
We explore the rainforests and rivers
of Bolivia with local tour guides,
seeing animals and scenery.
From carts in the skies to Witch Markets in the
streets, La Paz offers many types of excursions
for everyone. Located in a valley in the Altiplano
mountain region, this city will blow you away with its
gorgeous vistas, both natural and man made.
60
64
eatery
Take a tour of the Cochabamba,
and experience the wonderful
flavors of Bolivia.
residential
Explore the streets and back alleys
of Santa Cruz with local taxi drives
and street vendors.
We highlight photographer Jamie Justus Out, and
his incredible takes on photographing North and
South America. In this interview, he shares his life,
his success, and his tips and tricks for photography.
72
75
retreat
Kick up your feet, and enjoy the
shore of Lake Titicaca, a haven of
boating and scenic vistas.
excursion
Watch your step on Yangus Road,
a road that claims almost 300 lives
a year due to its precarious location.
79
reflection
We take a look into Bolivia’s sordid
past, from civil war to dictatorships
to economic collapse.
90
farewells
We wrap up our visit to Bolivia,
say farewell, and introduce next
month’s destination.
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 3
Editor In Chief
Creative Director
Staff Editors
Copy Editors
Art Director
Photographers
Illustrators
Production
Hayden Gregory
Mike Parr
Jackson Whey
Melissa Carter
Ethan McArthur
Jane Parker
Jack Courtney
Parishe Capour
Anzar Anzari
Leon Kennedy
David Kapernicous
Lucas Evergreen
Travis Daime
Aman Solaire
Ryuiji Tanaka
Marcus McAnthony
Dan O’Brien
Trevor Smith
Courtney Rice
This is a magazine built
on the community and
camaraderie of everyday
adventurers and
thirllseekers. If you’d like
to join our community,
head to our website at
wanderlust.com to join
the conversation and
share your travels.
Magazine constructed with Bodoni
MT, Raleway, Migur and Salmoe.
401 Highstreet, Killarney, Ireland.
wanderlust.com
353.718.9010 | help@wanderlust.com
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 4
editor’s letter
IN OUR CURRENT AGE, WE ASSUME WE’VE
seen all that there is to see. Everything that
can be seen and named, has been. What a
tired and uninspired thought. There are so
many wonderful sights to see in the world,
to experience, and to be a part of places
people haven’t even heard of, places that
redefine imagination.
This month, we’re in Bolivia, a beautiful
country rich with natural resources and
wrapped in turmoil of the past few centuries.
Once a part of the ancient Inca empire, it
was ravaged by the Spanish in their quest for
gold and evangelism. It has since suffered
many revolutions, coups, dictatorships, with
a shaky economy at the best of times. They
also have the highest population of people
identifying as ‘indigenous’ in the world.
Located in South America between Brazil,
Peru and Chile, it’s a land bursting with
culture and danger.
We’ll travel to the ethereal Uyuni Salt Flats in
Bolivia, a giant natural mirror during summer
and a wide, desolate plain in winter. We’ll
quickly swing by the Great Train Graveyard,
located near the salt flats, than head east
to the cities of Cochabamba, La Paz and
Sucre, known for their cultures, architecture,
and food. We’ll round off our trip by braving
Yangus Road, a road that over the years has
earned the name Death Road for its winding
turns and overconfident drivers. We’re also
highlighting Jamie Justus Out this month,
a photographer known for his empty and
melancholy landscapes.
So join us, and together we’ll traverse lands
unknown.
Hayden Gregory, Editor in Chief.
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 5
peru
brazil
The land of Bolivia is a sight to behold. It’s
landlocked between Brazil, Chile, and Argentina.
To the north, the Amazon rainforest stretches
from Brazil into Bolivia. To the west, Lake
Titicaca is a summertime destination, featuring
some Inca ruins. To the south, the Andes
mountain range heads into Chile. The largest
salt flats in the world, the Salar de Uyuni, are
also located to the southwest. To the east, the
commercial capital of Santa Cruz lights up the
night sky with clubs and skyscrapers.
quick
guide
to
Bolivia
1 | Isla del Sol
5 | La Paz
2 | Cochabamba
4 | Santa Cruz
3 | Sucre
Uyuni
paraguay
chile
0 25 50 75 100
miles
argentina
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 24
travelers
1 2 3 4 5
ISLA DEL SOL COCHABAMBA SUCRE SANTA CRUZ LA PAZ
Located on the coast of
Lake Titicaca, it features
beautiful vistas and many
ruins of the ancient Inca
located on the stunning
hills and shorelines.
Known for its cable cars,
striking vistas, a couple
beautiful cathedrals and
plentiful markets, this
city is for people looking
for an experience filled
with flavor.
Known mostly for its Casa
de la Libertad where its
own declaration of independence
was signed. It
features many galleries,
museums, and a beautiful
cathedral, along with a
gorgeous capital building.
Considered the main
commercial center of
Bolivia, this city is bustling
with galleries, restaurants,
and nightclubs.
Boasting as the highest
administrative capital in
the world at a whopping
2.17 miles above sea level.
It features a robust system
of cable cars called the
Teleferico, which move
around the mountainous
capital city.
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 25
Salar D
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 60
De Uyuni
Stretching over 4,050 square miles is a place that makes you feel like you’re standing in
the sky. Follow me as I join thousands of others who have taken the five-day excursion
across this exposed land to discover unparalleled beauty. JENNY ADAMS MAY
The Uyuni Salt Flat in Bolivia is one of most intimidating
landscapes on Earth — I arrived informed of the statistics.
Spanning more than 4,000 square miles at an altitude of
12,000 feet, it’s a beautiful moonscape where temperatures
can swing 40 degrees in a day.
YOU CAN FRY, AND YOU CAN
freeze. To that point, my bag
contained 50 SPF, polarized
sunglasses and a 4-layer, Arc’teryx
jacket and a Nikon camera.
What I wasn’t prepared for was the
sheer silence. I wasn’t ready for the
deep emotions sweeping over me at
sunset. And I certainly wasn’t prepared
for feeling so tiny and insignificant,
while at the same time like I could
stroke the clouds or potentially catch a
glimpse of God.
Uyuni Salt Flats—except the subsequent
mountain bike ride we took in
circles around the campfire. Once it was
pitch black, the Universe lit up and our
guide Gustavo Morales whipped out a
laser pointer and gave us an astrology
lesson against the water.
A booking through tour company Cox
& Kings is approximately $3,500 for
double occupancy. This includes all
transfers, two days exploring the salt
flats in Land Cruisers with multi-lingual
expert guides, bicycles, haute cuisine,
However, to exist for days in the center — without
seeing anything save a brilliant blue horizon
and empty white Earth...
Visitors have a couple of options: You
can stay at one of the hotels along the
border and drive into this crazy, crusty,
saline phenomenon for a day trip. Or
you can camp along the mountain ridge
and ride motorcycles along it.
However, to exist for days in the center—without
seeing anything save a
brilliant blue horizon and empty white
Earth—your only choice is an Airstream.
It’s the lone way to immerse oneself in
this sacred, brutal place while retaining
necessary creature comforts like water,
electricity, and premium Scotch.
There’s no experience I’ve ever had that
succeeds cocktails at sunset on the
hot showers, and help in creating
optical illusion images using an iPhone
and a few plastic toys. You hike around
the base of the flower-covered Tunupa
volcano and climb inside a cave to see
thousand-year-old skeletons. You also
get to ogle the flamingos and llamas
that live as neighbors to the salty plains.
But to visit such a place calls for knowing
how it got there. Thanks to radiocarbon
dating, they know Uyuni was created
42,000 years ago after the drying
of the giant, prehistoric Lake Minchinth.
It’s four times the size of Hong Kong.
In the center, with the mountains no
longer visible, all directional intuition
dissolves. Large cracks rip the perfect
cont. on pg 64
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 62
Trips in Salar de Uyuni don’t last just a day; typically,
you’d have to sign up for a four day excursion to really see
what the area has to offer. Depending on the time of year,
the days can be scalding and the nights can be freezing.
Summer
During the months of January through March, the rainy
season kicks off the new year with its iconic natural mirror.
This time is the most popular with tourists, so expect large
amounts of people interrupting what is otherwise a spiritual
experience. You can also see the massive amount of
flamingos that call this salt bed their home.
During the months of July through August, the weather is
bitterly cold and dry. The vast white desert is breathtakingly
beautiful, so if you’re planning on visiting during this part of
the year, bring insulated clothing. There are fewer people
touring around this time of year, so if you want to feel like
you’re on an alien planet, this is the time to go.
Winter
At just over 35 miles long,
Yungus Road should be
a picturesque drive through
the mountainous region
between the city of La Paz
and Coroico. However, rock
slides, low visibility, and
poor maintenance make
this road a true killer.
excursion
The highway drops precipitously down the mountainside, and
the pavement is slick with rain and hail. Cars pass in both
directions, forcing me to pedal tight to the thousand-foot drop at
the road’s edge. ETHAN TODRAS-WHITEHILL
FOG OBSCURES THE TOPS OF
the striated olive-green and black
cliffs on the other side of the valley.
Below, it is raining, but at 15,000 feet
our little group of adventure seekers is
actually inside the cloud, freezing precipitation
pelting our hands and faces as we
bike downhill at patently unsafe speeds.
This is the first leg of a cycling day trip
on Bolivia’s much-advertised
Most Dangerous Road (also
known as the Death Road),
which descends 12,000 feet
over 40 miles from a mountain
pass near La Paz to the
balmy resort town of Coroico.
It is third-world infrastructure
turned into a tourist attraction.
The grim nickname comes
from a report in the 1980s, when Bolivia
tried to secure funding to build a replacement
road for this one by touting traffic
fatalities higher than anywhere else in
the world — more than 300 dead in a
single year. Since the new road was built,
those numbers have dipped drastically
but have been joined by a new statistic:
cycling deaths, more than one a year.
The guides finally call us to a halt at the
first shoulder to wait for the van that took
us to the top and will follow us down the
road in case of injuries, breakdowns
or people’s coming to their senses.
I try to unclench my hands from
the handlebars but find them
locked in position from the
cold, my thin racing gloves
useless. Water has begun to
form icy pools in my shoes.
I ask how soon we’ll be low enough
in altitude for the air to feel warm and am
informed “another hour or so.” The guides
go on to explain that soon after that, we
cont. on pg 79
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 62
gallery
Jamie Justus Out
Last month we spoke with Vancouver-based nature photographer, Jamie
Justus Out. Jamie shoots absolutely stunning scenes and inspires many to
get out and explore. He is known for his cool and atmospheric shots that
make you fall in love with North America! ALEX MALONE
Let’s start with getting to know you a little
bit better. We wonder; who is Jamie?
I grew up in a small town called Salmon
Arm, but I’ve lived in Vancouver for about
ten years now. I am 33, happily married
and am a new father to a 1-year old boy,
which is super exciting. Having a child was
really a life-changing-experience for me
and I am trying to make an effort to spend
more time with my family. I am a former
elementary teacher but have changed
careers after ten years to focus on photography.
Oh, and I shoot with a Canon 5D.
traveling all the time. This is not the case.
I do try and get out 3–4 times a month
on day or weekend trips, maybe more
during summer for backpacking/hiking
trips. I plan my hikes around a certain
location but I don’t want to approach it as
a work job. I really just want to enjoy what
I’m doing. With everything that I do, I ask
myself “how is this going to help pursue
my future and my family’s future”? To what
expense do I want to miss things with my
son. I am also doing my Masters in Educational
Technology so it really depends
on the week. I’m studying to keep my
It’s not as simple as having a following on
Instagram, stepping out with a camera and that’s
that. You really need to work your angle. You have to
be approachable, reach out to companies, network.
Cool. When we look at your feed it looks
like you are working on the most amazing
spots every day. Can you give us a
little insight in what your average week
look like for you?
My day to day varies a lot and although
through Instagram, life can look really
perfect, things are not always as they
seem. To others, it might look like I’m
options open if photography isn’t as viable
as I would like, or if it fails to pay the bills
completely. Who knows, I might just work
as a principal! I do try and get out to my
local area once or twice a week but as a
new dad, planning trips can be somewhat
of a challenge. I don’t want to miss out on
anything with my son so I don’t usually
take trips longer than about a week. I only
just made the transition into photograph
cont. on pg 70
april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 68
Various photos
from his North
American and
Canadian series,
courtesy of
his instagram
account
@jamieout.