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features 14

While less famous, the Bolivian side of the Amazon

rain forest is just as beautiful. Less crowded and

more personal, join us as we head upriver from

Rurrenabaque and explore a disappearing natural

beauty before it’s completely gone.

18 38

This issue, our cover feature is Salar de Uyuni, also

known as the Bolivian Salt Flats. The largest in the

world, they feature stunning vistas year round, from

a natural mirror of water in the summers to a stark,

cloudless sky against white salt in the winter. Truly, a

brilliant sight to behold.

68

Various photos

from his North

American and

Canadian series,

courtesy of

his instagram

account

@jamieout.


5/6/2019 8:07:45 PM

gallery

table of contents

Last month we spoke with Vancouver-based nature photographer, Jamie

Justus Out. Jamie shoots absolutely stunning scenes and inspires many to

get out and explore. He is known for his cool and atmospheric shots that

make you fall in love with North America! ALEX MALONE

Let’s start with getting to know you a little

bit better. We wonder; who is Jamie?

I grew up in a small town called Salmon

Arm, but I’ve lived in Vancouver for about

ten years now. I am 33, happily married

and am a new father to a 1-year old boy,

which is super exciting. Having a child was

really a life-changing-experience for me

and I am trying to make an effort to spend

more time with my family. I am a former

elementary teacher but have changed

careers after ten years to focus on photography.

Oh, and I shoot with a Canon 5D.

Cool. When we look at your feed it looks

like you are working on the most amazing

spots every day. Can you give us a

little insight in what your average week

look like for you?

My day to day varies a lot and although

through Instagram, life can look really

perfect, things are not always as they

seem. To others, it might look like I’m

traveling all the time. This is not the case.

I do try and get out 3–4 times a month

on day or weekend trips, maybe more

during summer for backpacking/hiking

trips. I plan my hikes around a certain

location but I don’t want to approach it as

a work job. I really just want to enjoy what

I’m doing. With everything that I do, I ask

myself “how is this going to help pursue

my future and my family’s future”? To what

expense do I want to miss things with my

son. I am also doing my Masters in Educational

Technology so it really depends

on the week. I’m studying to keep my

It’s not as simple as having a following on

Instagram, stepping out with a camera and that’s

that. You really need to work your angle. You have to

be approachable, reach out to companies, network.

options open if photography isn’t as viable

as I would like, or if it fails to pay the bills

completely. Who knows, I might just work

as a principal! I do try and get out to my

local area once or twice a week but as a

new dad, planning trips can be somewhat

of a challenge. I don’t want to miss out on

anything with my son so I don’t usually

take trips longer than about a week. I only

just made the transition into photograph

cont. on pg 70

Isla del Sol, known for its ties to the ancient Inca

empire, is a traveling destination for many. Located

on the shores of Lake Titicaca, it’s a hot spot of both

culture and leisure.

From carts in the skies to Witch Markets in the

streets, La Paz offers many types of excursions

for everyone. Located in a valley in the Altiplano

mountain region, this city will blow you away with its

gorgeous vistas, both natural and man made.

We highlight photographer Jamie Justus Out, and

his incredible takes on photographing North and

South America. In this interview, he shares his life,

his success, and his tips and tricks for photography.

departments

5

8

24

54

60

64

72

75

79

90

letter to the editor

Our editor gets us started on our

tour of Bolivia, and gives us the lay

of the land.

inventory

We tell you what to take with you

on your trip throughout the country,

from snacks to passports.

travelers

We give you the lay of the land,

along with several tourist destinations

and general facts.

scenery

We explore the rainforests and rivers

of Bolivia with local tour guides,

seeing animals and scenery.

eatery

Take a tour of the Cochabamba,

and experience the wonderful

flavors of Bolivia.

residential

Explore the streets and back alleys

of Santa Cruz with local taxi drives

and street vendors.

retreat

Kick up your feet, and enjoy the

shore of Lake Titicaca, a haven of

boating and scenic vistas.

excursion

Watch your step on Yangus Road,

a road that claims almost 300 lives

a year due to its precarious location.

reflection

We take a look into Bolivia’s sordid

past, from civil war to dictatorships

to economic collapse.

farewells

We wrap up our visit to Bolivia,

say farewell, and introduce next

month’s destination.

april 22 | issue 23 | wanderlust, 68



5/6/2019 8:07:51 PM

excursion

Editor In Chief

Creative Director

Staff Editors

Copy Editors

Art Director

Photographers

Illustrators

Production

Hayden Gregory

Mike Parr

Jackson Whey

Melissa Carter

Ethan McArthur

Jane Parker

Jack Courtney

Parishe Capour

Anzar Anzari

Leon Kennedy

David Kapernicous

Lucas Evergreen

Travis Daime

Aman Solaire

Ryuiji Tanaka

Marcus McAnthony

Dan O’Brien

Trevor Smith

Courtney Rice

The highway drops precipitously down the mountainside, and

the pavement is slick with rain and hail. Cars pass in both

directions, forcing me to pedal tight to the thousand-foot drop at

the road’s edge. ETHAN TODRAS-WHITEHILL

This is a magazine built

on the community and

camaraderie of everyday

adventurers and

thirllseekers. If you’d like

to join our community,

head to our website at

wanderlust.com to join

the conversation and

share your travels.

Magazine constructed with Bodoni

MT, Raleway, Migur and Salmoe.

FOG OBSCURES THE TOPS OF

the striated olive-green and black

cliffs on the other side of the valley.

Below, it is raining, but at 15,000 feet

our little group of adventure seekers is

actually inside the cloud, freezing precipitation

pelting our hands and faces as we

bike downhill at patently unsafe speeds.

This is the fi rst leg of a cycling day trip

on Bolivia’s much-advertised

Most Dangerous Road (also

known as the Death Road),

which descends 12,000 feet

over 40 miles from a mountain

pass near La Paz to the

balmy resort town of Coroico.

It is third-world infrastructure

turned into a tourist attraction.

fatalities higher than anywhere else in

the world — more than 300 dead in a

single year. Since the new road was built,

those numbers have dipped drastically

but have been joined by a new statistic:

cycling deaths, more than one a year.

The guides finally call us to a halt at the

first shoulder to wait for the van that took

us to the top and will follow us down the

road in case of injuries, breakdowns

or people’s coming to their senses.

I try to unclench my hands from

the handlebars but fi nd them

locked in position from the

cold, my thin racing gloves

useless. Water has begun to

form icy pools in my shoes.

401 Highstreet, Killarney, Ireland.

wanderlust.com

353.718.9010 | help@wanderlust.com

The grim nickname comes

from a report in the 1980s, when Bolivia

tried to secure funding to build a replacement

road for this one by touting traffi c

I ask how soon we’ll be low enough

in altitude for the air to feel warm and am

informed “another hour or so.” The guides

go on to explain that soon after that, we

cont. on pg 79




5/6/2019 8:07:51 PM

editor’s letter

At just over 35 miles long,

Yungus Road should be

a picturesque drive through

the mountainous region

between the city of La Paz

and Coroico. However, rock

slides, low visibility, and

poor maintenance make

this road a true killer.

IN OUR CURRENT AGE, WE ASSUME WE’VE

seen all that there is to see. Everything that

can be seen and named, has been. What a

tired and uninspired thought. There are so

many wonderful sights to see in the world,

to experience, and to be a part of places

people haven’t even heard of, places that

redefi ne imagination.

This month, we’re in Bolivia, a beautiful

country rich with natural resources and

wrapped in turmoil of the past few centuries.

Once a part of the ancient Inca empire, it

was ravaged by the Spanish in their quest for

gold and evangelism. It has since suffered

many revolutions, coups, dictatorships, with

a shaky economy at the best of times. They

also have the highest population of people

identifying as ‘indigenous’ in the world.

Located in South America between Brazil,

Peru and Chile, it’s a land bursting with

culture and danger.

We’ll travel to the ethereal Uyuni Salt Flats in

Bolivia, a giant natural mirror during summer

and a wide, desolate plain in winter. We’ll

quickly swing by the Great Train Graveyard,

located near the salt flats, than head east

to the cities of Cochabamba, La Paz and

Sucre, known for their cultures, architecture,

and food. We’ll round off our trip by braving

Yangus Road, a road that over the years has

earned the name Death Road for its winding

turns and overconfident drivers. We’re also

highlighting Jamie Justus Out this month,

a photographer known for his empty and

melancholy landscapes.

So join us, and together we’ll traverse lands

unknown.

Hayden Gregory, Editor in Chief.



5/6/2019 8:07:53 PM

peru

brazil

The land of Bolivia is a sight to behold. It’s

landlocked between Brazil, Chile, and Argentina.

To the north, the Amazon rainforest stretches

from Brazil into Bolivia. To the west, Lake

Titicaca is a summertime destination, featuring

some Inca ruins. To the south, the Andes

mountain range heads into Chile. The largest

salt flats in the world, the Salar de Uyuni, are

also located to the southwest. To the east, the

commercial capital of Santa Cruz lights up the

night sky with clubs and skyscrapers.

1 | Isla del Sol

quick

guide

to

5 | La Paz

Bolivia

Summer

During the months of January through March, the rainy

season kicks off the new year with its iconic natural mirror.

This time is the most popular with tourists, so expect large

amounts of people interrupting what is otherwise a spiritual

experience. You can also see the massive amount of

flamingos that call this salt bed their home.

2 | Cochabamba

3 | Sucre

4 | Santa Cruz

During the months of July through August, the weather is

bitterly cold and dry. The vast white desert is breathtakingly

beautiful, so if you’re planning on visiting during this part of

the year, bring insulated clothing. There are fewer people

touring around this time of year, so if you want to feel like

you’re on an alien planet, this is the time to go.

Winter

Uyuni

paraguay

chile

0 25 50 75 100

miles

argentina



5/6/2019 8:07:56 PM

travelers

The Uyuni Salt Flat in Bolivia is one of most intimidating

landscapes on Earth — I arrived informed of the statistics.

Spanning more than 4,000 square miles at an altitude of

12,000 feet, it’s a beautiful moonscape where temperatures

can swing 40 degrees in a day.

YOU CAN FRY, AND YOU CAN

freeze. To that point, my bag

contained 50 SPF, polarized

sunglasses and a 4-layer, Arc’teryx

jacket and a Nikon camera.

What I wasn’t prepared for was the

sheer silence. I wasn’t ready for the

deep emotions sweeping over me at

sunset. And I certainly wasn’t prepared

for feeling so tiny and insignificant,

while at the same time like I could

stroke the clouds or potentially catch a

glimpse of God.

Uyuni Salt Flats—except the subsequent

mountain bike ride we took in

circles around the campfire. Once it was

pitch black, the Universe lit up and our

guide Gustavo Morales whipped out a

laser pointer and gave us an astrology

lesson against the water.

A booking through tour company Cox

& Kings is approximately $3,500 for

double occupancy. This includes all

transfers, two days exploring the salt

flats in Land Cruisers with multi-lingual

expert guides, bicycles, haute cuisine,

1 2 3 4 5

However, to exist for days in the center — without

seeing anything save a brilliant blue horizon

and empty white Earth...

Visitors have a couple of options: You

can stay at one of the hotels along the

border and drive into this crazy, crusty,

saline phenomenon for a day trip. Or

you can camp along the mountain ridge

and ride motorcycles along it.

However, to exist for days in the center—without

seeing anything save a

brilliant blue horizon and empty white

Earth—your only choice is an Airstream.

It’s the lone way to immerse oneself in

this sacred, brutal place while retaining

necessary creature comforts like water,

electricity, and premium Scotch.

There’s no experience I’ve ever had that

succeeds cocktails at sunset on the

hot showers, and help in creating

optical illusion images using an iPhone

and a few plastic toys. You hike around

the base of the flower-covered Tunupa

volcano and climb inside a cave to see

thousand-year-old skeletons. You also

get to ogle the flamingos and llamas

that live as neighbors to the salty plains.

But to visit such a place calls for knowing

how it got there. Thanks to radiocarbon

dating, they know Uyuni was created

42,000 years ago after the drying

of the giant, prehistoric Lake Minchinth.

It’s four times the size of Hong Kong.

In the center, with the mountains no

longer visible, all directional intuition

dissolves. Large cracks rip the perfect

cont. on pg 64

ISLA DEL SOL COCHABAMBA SUCRE SANTA CRUZ LA PAZ

Located on the coast of

Lake Titicaca, it features

beautiful vistas and many

ruins of the ancient Inca

located on the stunning

hills and shorelines.

Known for its cable cars,

striking vistas, a couple

beautiful cathedrals and

plentiful markets, this

city is for people looking

for an experience fi lled

with flavor.

Known mostly for its Casa

de la Libertad where its

own declaration of independence

was signed. It

features many galleries,

museums, and a beautiful

cathedral, along with a

gorgeous capital building.

Considered the main

commercial center of

Bolivia, this city is bustling

with galleries, restaurants,

and nightclubs.

Boasting as the highest

administrative capital in

the world at a whopping

2.17 miles above sea level.

It features a robust system

of cable cars called the

Teleferico, which move

around the mountainous

capital city.




5/6/2019 8:08:06 PM


Stretching over 4,050 square miles is a place that makes you feel like you’re standing in

the sky. Follow me as I join thousands of others who have taken the fi ve-day excursion

across this exposed land to discover unparalleled beauty. JENNY ADAMS MAY


5/6/2019 8:08:18 PM

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