Indian Jeweller (IJ) Feb - March Issue

Editor’s note
KEEp calm &
stay positivE
The gems and jewellery industry is facing an unprecedented turmoil. The
markets, economic slowdown, lethal viruses and the volatile bullion prices are
all taking a toll on the industry. Workers and artisans are suddenly
finding themselves out of work, banks and financial institutions, despite their
willingness are unable to extend credit owing to lack of effective policies to
reform the situation.
These are testing times for the industry and all its stakeholders. All the same,
like every difficult situation, this one too holds the hope of a better future. When
the dust settles, clarity will prevail. It’s time for the industry think tank to come
together and devise some winning strategies. The cover story takes a look at
different types of brides, their preferences and how storeowners and manufacturers
can fulfill every bride’s dreams on her very special day. The latest trends in the
industry bring in the shimmer of changing times. A quick glance at the shiny and
fashionable pieces worn by top actresses at the Oscars and the high jewellery that
made its mark at the Paris Couture week 2020 is worth a dekko.
Meet the who’s who of the industry and learn some trade secrets used by
them to attract customers despite the prevailing market conditions. Effective sales
strategies, winning mantras shared by experienced store owners highlight the
profit potential of the industry.
There’s more, in terms of latest industry news, and a stock of the current
scenario. All in all, this edition brings you a clear perspective of the gems
and jewellery industry.
editor
Alok Kala
Courtesy: Aisshpra Gems and Jewels
28 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Vol.10 Issue 4
february-march 2020
Editor and Publisher: Alok Kala
Associate Publisher: Arpit Kala
Senior Editor: Vijetha Rangabashyam
Business & Marketing: Gunjan Jain
Features Editor : Sugandha R
Graphic Designer: Dhananjay Kokate
Columnists: Gunjan Suri, Aftab Bandukwala
Subscription: India
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The Face oF The indian jewellery indusTry
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Cover Jewellery courtesy: Jewellery - Kishandas & Co., Outfit- Jayanti Reddy, Photographer-
Hormis Antony Tharakan, Make up- Manju, Model- Meenakshi Rathore, Stylist- Divyak D’Souza
The Face oF The indian jewellery indusTry
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The Big Story
The Ultimate
Bridal Personality Guide
From celeb lovers, practical-minimalists to the quality-conscious who sees deep
value in craftsmanship and someone who want’s to look completely traditional
head to toe, here’s our dictionary on bridal personality types and the kind of
jewellery they would ideally wear says Vijetha Rangabashyam
60
106
Show Report
All Business at IIJS
Signature 2020
Though footfall was less,
IIJS Signature had promising
buyers
Decoding the Psyche of a Bride
The
UlTimaTe
BRiDal
PeRSonaliTy
GUiDe
Designscape
A Born Artist
With pieces that has a
global audience, Vishal Anil
Kothari is well on his way
in becoming India’s top
jewellery designer
Indian Jeweller, a bi-monthly magazine is
printed and published by Alok Kala, Proprietor,
Gem & Jewellery Information Centre, Journal
House, A-95, Janta Colony, Jaipur-302004,
Printed at Payorite Print Media Pvt. Ltd.,
Jaipur-302006.
Published from Gem & Jewellery Information
Centre, Journal House, A-95, Janta Colony,
Jaipur-302004.
Editor - Alok Kala
Registered with the Registrar of Newspapers
for India under No. RAJENG/2010/50179.
© All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form without
prior consent.
Special Report
Budget 2020: Blah at Best
Though the FM announced reforms
for the agricultural sector and MSMEs,
not much was done for the gems and
122
jewellery industry
102

Special Features
What Luxury Jewellery
Retailers Teach their
Sales Staff? 82
From training to grooming,
retailers talk about what they
advice their sales staff
IN FOCUS
Eternal & Elegant
94
A quintessential piece of Indian adornment, jhumkas will
always remain a favourite
A Splash of Colours
96
We love these pieces replete with kaleidoscopic colour-stones;
something to remind us of Spring!
Of Blooms & Blossoms
99
From roses to dahlia, here are our favourite pieces bearing
floral motifs
Simply Charming
100
A millennial icon, if your young client is anything like
JanhviKapoor, here’s what you should stock up on
The Lightweight
Promise 87
Top light-weight jewellery
manufactures are
constantly innovating
using technology to create
light-weight jewellery that
looks big but weighs less
Sparkling all the
way! 70
From classic diamond
necklaces to hair brooches
and elaborate cuffs,
here are pieces from the
Oscars we loved
Columns
Jewellery Chronicles Part 3: Retail is Detail
126
In his third part of the series, Aftab Bandukwala focuses on the
details of planning anddiscussion between the structural designer
and his team
The Art of Story Telling
127
Anil Prabhakar talks about the power of storytelling and making
its magic work for brand building
An Eclectic
Display of the
World’s Finest
Jewels 76
Breathtaking jewels
with the choices of
gemstones by world’s
most renowned
jewellery maisons
The Face oF The indian jewellery indusTry
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trends, market
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IIJS
SPECIAL

Policy & Market UPdate
World Gold council
to come up with
code of conduct for
indian jewellery
retailers
The World Gold Council (WGC) is slated
to come forth with a prescribed set of
principles, or a code of conduct, called the
Retail Gold Investment Principles, for the retail
jewellery sector in India. The move is likely to
bring in transparency in the sector, which has
been facing severe perception issues, in the past.
The global principles have already been put
up on the Council’s website, inviting comments
from all the stakeholders. The comments will
be interpreted and implemented based on the
requirements and
challenges of the
domestic gold
industry.
This will
basically provide
a platform for
stakeholders, and those willing to be part of the
initiative can conform to the code of conduct and
bring in some standardisation and transparency
in the industry.
While the principles will be global, the standards
will be locally tailored and put in place in
consultation with all the stakeholders. The WGC
is in the process of forming a steering committee
and are likely announce names of members by
April-May this year.
As part of this initiative, the Council will conduct
outreach programmes in various cities and get in
touch with jewellers big and small.
The Council will also put together a monitoring
mechanism, which would be crucial to ensure the
success of the platform. Once a company or a
jeweller signs up on the platform, it has to ensure
that nothing comes from the grey market and all
efforts, including a strong supply chain, are put
in place so that the customer feels safe. This will
help the industry raise money through bank and
institutional borrowing, because of the resulting
transparency.
Read Online
SBI supports insurance cover for
lending to jewellery industry
SBI stated that the presence of an insurance cover
will lower capital requirement of the industry for
jewellery exports. “Absence of an insurance cover is
hurting lending to the gems and jewellery industry by banks.
If there is an insurance cover, it will help the bank to lend
courageously to the sector,” SBI deputy managing director
(clients group-I) P N Prasad told presspersons.
Speaking at an event, organised in Mumbai, he said that
the exposure of SBI to
the jewellery industry is
around Rs 20,000 crore,
adding that the lending
growth to the sector has
been muted at present.
The SBI official said the “trust of the bankers in the gems
and jewellery industry is not there” because of its practices
“which had caused misery to the banks in the past”. The
gems and jewellery industry should be more transparent
in terms of ownership, management and valuation, Prasad
opined. Some kind of credit guarantee will give freedom to
the gems and jewellery exporters in the MSME segment.
Prasad also said that gold should be treated as a source of
investment in the country. For that, there is a need to create
awareness among the public. Read Online
Jewellers sent notices to pay
taxes on revenues earned
soon after demonetisation
Jewellers have received surprise tax notices asking them
to turn over money they made from customers who
scrambled to buy gold after Prime Minister Narendra
Modi’s 2016 ban on high-currency notes, according to a
dozen jewellers and tax officials.
When PM Modi announced a
sudden ban on Rs 500 and Rs 1,000
on November 8, 2016, to weed out
undeclared cash, clients thronged
jewellery stores clamouring for
necklaces, rings, bullion — anything
gold.
Tax authorities are within rights
to demand tax on past revenue, which takes time to
scrutinise, but it is highly unusual for officials to demand
the entire revenue as tax. Two senior tax officials said
the department has sent thousands of notices this year,
including jewellers, demanding an estimated Rs 1.5-2 lakh
crore in taxes. Read Online
34 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Policy & Market UPdate
Coronavirus impact: GJEPC
postpones intl gem, jewellery
show in Jaipur to July
Gems and Jewellery Export
Promotion Council (GJEPC)
has rescheduled its
international gem and jewellery
show in Jaipur from April to July on
account of coronavirus outbreak.
In a statement, the council has
said due to concerns related to the
global coronavirus outbreak, they
have decided to postpone the dates
to July 18-20, 2020. Further, the
council said over 600 buyers from
56 countries which includes Algeria,
Argentina, Australia, Bangladesh,
Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Denmark,
and England, have registered so far.
Over 230 exhibitors have confirmed
their participation from all over India.
The council also said that in
view of the recent action taken by
the Reserve Bank of India on Yes
Bank, all exhibitors and visitors are
advised not to deposit any cheques/
NEFT/RTGS/IMP in that bank with
immediate effects. “GJEPC may not
be able to provide credit for cheque’s
deposited in Yes Bank after March
5, 2020 in view of the restrictions
imposed on transaction with Yes
bank,” it added.
SBI urges for uniformity in lending
to gems and jewellery sector
State Bank of India is pushing for
bringing about uniformity in its
lending practices to the gems
and jewellery sector, where lending
growth has been adversely affected
following incidence of frauds. SBI has
been working on a policy framework
to standardise lending practices
to the gems and jewellery sector
and looked forward to extend it to
other banks through Indian Banks’
Association. Most banking experts
have labelled this move to be highly
risky, given the requirements of
higher amounts of credit and inability
to provide solemn securities in
return for lending. In addition of prior
defaulters from the industry who
gave the community a bad name due
to their ill-placed borrowings.
Around 60-70 per cent of the
gems and jewellery units have
moved to corporate structure. SBI
is persuading for a neutral, impartial
valuation policy for diamonds, while
it is also looking for the Export Credit
Guarantee Corporation (ECGC) to
finalise the new policy for insurance
cover.
ECGC policy for insurance cover,
especially to the exporting MSMEs,
is in the final stage of approval and
a guarantee of 80 per cent coverage
of the exposure for exporters should
put the banks in a comfortable zone.
Banks were also looking for a credit
guarantee scheme for domestic
players to be in a comfortable zone
for lending, but lenders would be
comfortable with both internal and
external ratings. Read Online
india’s gold
imports suffer
as prices hit
record high
According to a Government
source, India’s gold imports
plunged 41 per cent in
February from a year earlier as a
rally in local prices to a record high
squeezed retail demand.
The world’s second-biggest
consumer of gold imported 46
tonnes in February, compared
with 77.64 tonnes a year earlier.
In value terms, February imports
totalled $2.36 billion, down from
$2.58 billion a year earlier.
In the first half of February
demand was modest but it
faltered as prices started rallying
from mid-February, said a
Mumbai-based dealer with a
bullion importing bank.
Gold futures in India hit a record
high of Rs 43,788 per 10 grams
in February after rising nearly a
quarter in 2019.
The weak demand forced
dealers to offer as much as $14
an ounce discount over official
domestic prices in February, the
most since mid-October. The
domestic price includes a 12.5 per
cent import tax and three per cent
sales tax. Read Online
36 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

AssociAtion & trAde bodies
G&J industry
requests government
to roll back import
duty on rough
coloured gemstones
Government proposed import duty on
rough coloured gemstones from nil to
0.5 percent. The move will impact the
four lakh workers in Rajasthan, the hub of
processing and cutting of coloured gem stones.
The industry is in a state of surprise , as
government has proposed to levy import duty
on rough coloured gemstones, rough semiprecious
stones and pre-forms of precious
and semi-precious stones from Nil to 0.5
percent. These rough gem stones primarily are
imported for cutting and polishing work and
are exported internationally. There is a very
miniscule domestic consumption of coloured
gem stones and India competes in exports in
this segment with China and Thailand.
Chairman, Pramod Kumar Agrawal, said,
“This rise in import duty of rough coloured
gemstones has the potential to disrupt
the exports of gemstones from Rajasthan,
the hub of coloured gemstones processing
which employs around four lakh workers.
We earnestly request the government to
roll back the proposed import duty on these
rough coloured gemstones in the interest of
gemstone exports from India.” Read Online
GJEPC launches luxury
section in partnership with
Times Internet - association
Times Internet, India’s leading digital products company, has
partnered with Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council
(GJEPC) to power a premier luxury section on its platform.
Managed and driven by
the Times of India Fashion
editorial team, this new
vertical will feature exclusive
coverage from the world of
fashion and lifestyle.
Commenting on the launch,
Puneet Gupt, COO – Times Internet said, “We are excited to partner
with Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council to bring the best
of global fashion and jewellery content to Indian readers”. As a part
of the launch, TOI Fashion team has worked with industry leaders
to deliver the most premium lifestyle content in the country.”
Rupa Dutta of MoC&I graces
Common Facility Centre at
Bow Bazar
GJEPC is setting up a Common Facility Center at Bow Bazar
with a view to enhance the productivity and quality of
products, especially the small gems and Jewellery units set
in Bow Bazar and its surrounding areas.
GJEPC with the support of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry
has already set up Common Facility Centers in Amreli, Palanpur,
Visnagar and Junagadh in Gujarat. CFC at Bow Bazar is being set up
by GJEPC in association with Swarna Shilpa Bachao Samiti (SSBC)
at Bow Bazar, Kolkata.
Kolkata is the national jewellery hub, known for making quality
and high-class designs in handmade jewellery and the CFC will
provide them with an opportunity to produce jewellery keeping
their process losses minimised. Read Online
Read Online
38 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Retail & ecommeRce
atul Saraf of
aisshpra Gems &
Jewels receives
Purvanchal icon
award from
Govinda
Uttar Pradesh’s leading
jewellery chain Aisshpra
Gems & Jewels, Director Atul
Saraf receives Icon of the Year Award
at Purvanchal Icon Awards by actor
Govinda during the Purvanchal Icon
Awards event held in Gorakhpur.
Aisshpra Gems & Jewels has
emerged as one of the credible and
renowned jewellery houses of Uttar
Pradesh under the leadership of
Atul Saraf.
In last few years the brand
has been accredited with several
credible awards and recognitions
for its efforts and achievements in
the market. This award adds as yet
another feather to the brands hat.
In 2020, the brand plans to further
expand its footprints in various
parts of UP.
“As a brand we are constantly
taking efforts to understand our
consumers need and evolving. We
are glad that our market recognises
the same and this award is a
momento of the same,” said Atul
Saraf, Director, Aisshpra Gems &
Jewels.
Read Online
(L-R) Pramod Dugar, Prayas Dugar, Filmstar Mouni Roy, Pratik Dugar and Sachin Jain
Forevermark and Indian Gem &
Jewellery Creation launch second
exclusive Boutique in Kolkata
Forevermark, the diamond brand
from the De Beers Group,
launched an exclusive boutique
with Indian Gems and Jewellery
Creation, a leading jewellery brand in
Kolkata. This is the second Forevermark
Boutique in the city, which exclusively
retails its diamonds in a wide variety
of elegant cuts, designer jewellery and
loose diamonds.
These diamonds are the world’s
(L-R) Amit Bandi, Sachin Jain, Actress Neha Sharma, and Vikas Kataria
most carefully selected natural
diamonds, while Indian Gems and
Jewellery Creation is known for offering
innovative jewellery to its customers.
The solidarity of these two brands has
brought about an ideal collaboration
to offer hallmark diamond jewellery
with the assurance of having the
most beautiful, rare and responsibly
sourced diamonds at the Forevermark
Boutique.
DP Jewellers launches Forevermark
at their store in Indore
The synergies of Forevermark and
DP Jewellers has brought about
an ideal association to offer
elegant diamond jewellery pieces to
eclectic clients.
Speaking on the occasion, Sachin
Jain, President, Forevermark India said,
Read Online
“With a legacy of almost 80 years, DP
Jewellers are one of the finest jewellers
in Indore. Their elegant designs and
craftsmanship enhance the beauty of
a Forevermark diamond, and we look
forward to a lasting relationship with
them.” Read Online
40 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Retail & ecommeRce
Ansaa Jewellers re-opens
store - ‘Pallavi,’ era of a
new beginning
Ansaa Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.’s store named ‘Pallavi,’ has
been re-opened on March 14 at Kalbadevi, Mumbai.
Present for the inaugural ceremony were owners:
Kantilal Shah and Rekha Shah along with dignitaries like:
Thawarchand Gehlot, Cabinet Minister (Rajya Sabha),
Minister for Social Justice and Empowerment; Kishori
Pednekar, Mayor of Mumbai, Mangal Prabhat Lodha, MLA,
President of BJP, Mumbai and noted businessman.
tiffany & co makes
desi debut in Delhi
The iconic jewellery brand has finally
arrived on the Indian soil as they
flung their doors open for business in
the Capital after a soft launch on the eve of
Republic Day.
The global jewellery giant enters India
through a joint venture with the retail arm
of Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Industries
making Delhi’s Chanakya Mall - the new
‘it’ destination for jewellery lovers now.
Although the iconic Blue Box Cafe is yet to
open (not announced), one can still bask
in the glory of the timeless classic Audrey
Hepburn’s film Breakfast At Tiffany’s, well
almost!
From gemstones to diamonds, the 2,600
sq ft store in Delhi showcases the full
range of Tiffany including Tiffany T, Tiffany
HardWear, Tiffany True and their Home &
Accessories collection. Not just that, to
make your experience top-notch, they also
have a luxurious private salon for scheduled
appointments.
“From their new designs as well its classic
collections, the new store celebrates the
craftsmanship and exceptional quality that
characterise the brand’s extraordinary
pieces,” a statement issued by Reliance
said.
The 183-year-old company is reportedly
opening its second store in Mumbai later
this year.
Read Online
42 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Retail & ecommeRce
aisshpra Gems &
Jewels launches 8th
outlet in Ballia
Uttar Pradesh’s leading Jewellery house
Aisshpra Gems & Jewels launches their
8th store in Ballia, Bihar in esteemed
presence of Balkrishna Saraf, founder and
the senior most member of Aisshpra Family
Vaibhav Saraf, Anoop Saraf along with Rahul
Saraf. The launch also saw presence of Actress
Pakhi Hegde.
The store saw an overwhelming response
with footfall of more than 500 people once the
gates opened. 80-year-old Aisshpra Gems and
Jewels has been creating a strong and steady
footprint in Uttar Pradesh since last five years
via company owned, company operated and
franchise owned, franchise operated model.
The brand aims at bringing standardised
and ethical jewellery buying experience for
consumers in tier II and tier III cities of Uttar
Pradesh with its store presence so that the
consumers don’t have to travel to the brand’s
Gorakhpur outlet. The brand was recently seen
launching an outlet in Azamgarh with the same
vision.
“Aisshpra Gems and Jewels has been known
for pioneering trends in the market and we have
been the first jewellers to bring hallmarking and
certified diamonds in our market,” said Vaibhav
Saraf, director, Aisshpra Gems & Jewels.
AMYRA Jewels by
ODHNI launches its
flagship store
Amyra an in-house brand of ODHNI has launched its
luxury jewellery store in Delhi. Situated at Vikas Marg,
New Delhi this splendid store spanning over 3000
square feet, offers a variety of exquisite jewellery fused
with great store design.
The brand celebrates its expansion as an opportunity to
address the growing needs of its large wedding customer
base in Delhi and NCR with innovative designs and
uncompromising quality, which are the marquees of ODHNI.
From chandbalis, danglers, studs, jhumkis, kadas, chokers,
and multi-layered necklaces in diamond, sapphires, gold,
and kundan, a customer has endless choices to meet her
yearning for astonishing jewellery pieces.
At the launch ceremony, Puneet and Yatin Jain, Directors
of Amyra by ODHNI said, “With the success of ODHNI, we
are very proud to launch our new venture in the jewellery
segment. This will now be headed by our younger brothers
Nishant Jain and Manik Jain as official managing directors of
Amyra Jewels.” Read Online
Read Online
44 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Retail & ecommeRce
Vummidi Bangaru
jewellers celebrates
two consecutive
achievements
South India’s leading jewellery brand,
Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers, a 120-year-old
legacy brand, has bagged two awards at the
9th edition of the prestigious ‘National Jewellery
Awards 2019’ for their excellent craftsmanship.
As winners of the National Jewellery Awards (NJA)
2019, they were felicitated at a Grand Event in
Mumbai on the February 15.
At the National Jewellery Awards - 2019,
Dibyendu Manna and Swetha Shanmuhavel
represented VBJ and bagged the Artisan Award
and Student of the Year Award, respectively.
The collection that won in the Artisan category,
‘Dance of Flowers’, is a unique piece of jewellery
where at the front of the pendant, seven beautiful
flowers are placed in seamless rotation around
a royal blue enameled base. At the back is fine
enamel work inspired from the intricacies of the
jaali work. The materials used are 18k Yellow Gold
and Diamonds.
The jury consisted of Bollywood’s celebrated
jewellers, jewellery designers, socialists, fashion
designers and B-Town’s celebrities.
Speaking on the occasion, Jithendra Vummidi,
managing partner of Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers
said, “We are very happy to have participated
and won two prestigious awards at the National
Jewellery Awards 2019.” Read Online
Reliance Jewels unveils the
launch of its New Showroom in
Kolkata, West Bengal
Reliance Jewels, one of India’s most trusted jewellery
brands, has launched its 2nd showroom in Kolkata at
VIP road. With the launch of its brand new showroom
in Kolkata it is set to win hearts of patrons with its renowned
customer service. The new showroom displays a wide
range of exclusive
traditional and
contemporary
gold, diamond and
Solitaire jewellery.
The gold
collection includes
various jewellery
styles like Calcutti,
Polki, Jadau,
Antique, Meenakari etc. to sparkle your look with grace for all
occasions. It promises beautiful and elegant jewellery along
with customer satisfaction and exquisite craftsmanship. To
celebrate the launch of its new showroom, Reliance Jewels
had introduced attractive and exclusive inaugural offers.
Read Online
CaratLane - A Tanishq
Partnership: Opens its doors
to Vashi
CaratLane - A Tanishq Partnership, India’s leading omni
channel jeweller has launched its 8th store in Mumbai,
in the fast-moving suburban area of Vashi. CaratLane’s
retail expansion has been accelerated throughout the year,
and with the launch of this store, the brand now has 18
stores in the
western region of
the country, and
82 stores across
India.
Vashi has many
loyal customers
who have always
considered
CaratLane as their
go-to jewellery brand and love the designs. The addition of a
store to the city is an added bonus for those who also love to
browse and try-on jewellery before they buy. The new store
is perfectly situated at Inorbit Mall, which is one of the most
prominent shopping hubs of the city. With people hailing from
all over Vashi to shop in the mall, there could be no better
location for this new outlet. Read Online
46 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

RetAIl & ecommeRce
Malabar Gold to increase
outlets in India and abroad
In the coming three months the company plans to open 13
new showrooms across the country. It will also open outlets in
Malaysia, Bangladesh, Singapore, the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Oman
and Qatar.
According to Malabar Group Chairman MP Ahammed, they aim
to become the world’s largest gold retail chain. At present the South
India-centric group owns and operates more than 260 showrooms
across 10 countries. This number is slated increase to 750 in the
next five years.
The new showrooms will be located in Chandigarh, Kumbakonam,
Patna, Kammam, Lucknow, Ghaziabad, Kammanahalli, Indore,
Vashi, Thane, Dwaraka and Srikakulam.
The company is also expanding the number of ornament making
units. At present it has units in Kolkata, Hyderabad, Mumbai,
Bengaluru and Coimbatore. Read Online
PNG Jewellers
honoured at
Dadasaheb Phalke
International Film
Festival Awards 2020
PNG Jewellers, the 187 years legacy
jewellery brand was awarded a token
of appreciation at Dadasaheb Phalke
International Film Festival Awards 2020
for “Excellence in Jewellery- Retail”. The
prestigious appreciation letter was received by
Dr. Saurabh Gadgil in Mumbai.
PNG Jewellers have worked hand in hand
with the Indian film Industry, both in Hindi and
Marathi for over the last two decades.
On the occasion Dr. Saurabh Gadgil,
managing director, PNG Jewellers said, “We are
extremely delighted and honoured to receive
the Excellence in Jewellery – Retail appreciation
at Dadasaheb Phalke International Film
Festival Awards 2020.”
Read Online
48 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Branding & advertisement
CaratLane - a tanishq
partnership along
with mohan sisters
celebrates sisterly
bonding
With cute and unique delicately crafted motifs
inspired by every dreamer’s passion, this
collection is designed to encourage every
woman to believe in herself and in the collective
strength of her sisters-in-arms.
Talking about the association, Neeti Mohan shared,
“CaratLane is focused on making every day beautiful
and special with their designs for the modern Indian
woman. Keeping that in mind, we added a unique
touch to these signature pieces, which will ensure
that the CaratLane customers identify with the
designs and find a bit of themselves in each one of
them.”
Speaking about the designs, Shakti Mohan said,
“These designs come from a very personal place for
all three of us. We sisters are very close and have been
with each other through thick and thin. This is the
sisterhood that we wish for every woman out there,
who is striving to make a mark. We have designed
over 50 motifs, each beautifully crafted in 14kt gold,
to choose from. From the casual to the exquisite, this
collection has something for every occasion.”
Sharing her thoughts about the campaign, Mukti
Mohan opined, “It’s a great feeling when someone
believes in your potential and your dreams, and
I’ve found that ‘someone’ in my sisters.” CaratLane
encourages all women to believe in each other’s
dreams and aspirations, thus becoming a support
system for each other.
Read Online
DPA’s ‘The Real Cut’ Season 3
epitomises slow fashion through
natural diamond jewellery
Six winning emerging natural diamond
jewellery designers showcased their novel
work in collaboration with renowned fashion
designers Ragini Ahuja, Shriya Som and Ridhi Mehra,
communicating the message of slow fashion to the
consumers. The winners - Kinnari Shah for Reliance
Jewels, Riddhi Shah for B R Designs, Ashraf & Team for
A S Motiwala, Sourav Hanra for VBJ, Deepa Agarwal
for Sona Chandis and Subhajit Bag for Senco Gold &
Diamonds drew inspiration from nature, geometric
designs and life experiences to create their unique
designs.
The theme for The Real Cut Season 3 was ‘Slow
Fashion’, which focused on spreading the message of
conscious luxury. Billion-year-old natural diamonds
embody slow fashion because of their versatility,
eternal sparkle, ability to transcend everything from
traditional to contemporary wear and unmatched
relevance over ages. DPA through the Real Cut
reiterated that natural diamonds play a vital role
in enhancing the beauty of couture through their
timelessness and brilliance. Read Online
54 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Branding & advertisement
Forevermark Sparkles at
New York Fashion Show in
Association with Narayan
Jewellers
Forevermark, the diamond brand from De Beers
Group has again collaborated with celebrated
fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra, on his Fall/
Winter 2020 collection during New York Fashion
Week. The exquisite new designs by Narayan Jewellers
from their Empress Collection have been superbly
crafted with beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced
Forevermark diamonds.
Complementing the exquisite artistry of Bibhu’s
fashion designs, The Empress Collection expertly
designed by Forevermark Jeweller, Narayan Jewellers
by Ketan and Jatin Chokshi reflects the rich tapestry of
Bibhu Mohapatra’s fall/winter 2020 collection.
The selection of statement jewellery crafted with
beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced Forevermark
diamonds, set in 18K white and rose gold, comprises 7
capsule collections featuring ear climbers, ear jackets,
chandelier earrings, asymmetrical earrings, stackable
rings and cocktail handcuffs.
Celebrating their 80th Anniversary, Narayan
Jewellers by Ketan and Jatin Chokshi is one of India’s
leading jewellers known for its high standards of
precision and quality in hand crafting striking, elegant
diamond jewellery. Read Online
anmOL collaborates
with blogger masoom
minawala
Recently, luxury blogger Masoom Minawala
and her Dadima were seen sharing some
timeless moments where they both looked
‘Inherently Luxe’ in ANMOL’s exquisite creations.
The brand has been known for their timeless
designs and the fact that it appeals to ‘Anmol
Women’ of all generations.
The pieces were handpicked by Masoom
as she believed that no gemstones represent
regality as Emeralds. Masoom was also seen in
a contemporary look adorning a stunning blue
sapphire and diamond choker from the ‘Meraki’
collection by ANMOL.
‘We at ANMOL are constantly trying to create
interesting campaigns that appeal to our ‘Anmol
Women’. The association has been well received by
our audience and we look forward to yet another
year with more and more interesting campaigns,’’
said Ishu Datwani, Founder, Anmol.
Read Online
56 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Etc
Divine Solitaires
celebrates with
dazzling solitaire
offer at Alankar
Jewellers, Patna
Divine Solitaires launched its sparkling B1G2
solitaire jewellery exhibition at Alankar
Jewellers to celebrate the 10 th anniversary
of their association. Elli AvrRam graced the event
with her presence and addressed the guests about
her experience with diamonds.
A press conference was held at the Alankar
Jewellers’ flagship store in Patna and was
addressed by Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing
Director, Divine Solitaires, Manish Gupta, Director,
Alankar Jewellers and Mohinish Gupta, Director,
Alankar Jewellers.
Jignesh Mehta said to press, “Our association
with Alankar Jewellers has always been very
fulfilling. In the 10 years that we have worked
together, we trust their expertise and are glad to
be with them. Patna is a place where we can see
plenty of consumers who are eager to try solitaire
jewellery. We truly hope they enjoy this solitaire
jewellery exhibition.”
Manish Gupta, Director, Alankar Jewellers
added, “Along with great quality, we also stand
by the trust that our consumers place in us. For
a brand like ours that has been here for the last
sixty years, our consumers’ preference is always
our priority. We have seen that Divine Solitaires
has best quality solitaire jewellery with complete
transparency in pricing.”
Read Online
(L-R) Mohnish Gupta, Jignesh Mehta, Elli AvrRam, & Manish Gupta
Divine Solitaires felicitated
for its breakthroughs at
National Jewellery Awards
Divine Solitaires, India’s first solitaire jewellery
brand was recognised at the prestigious
National Jewellery Awards (NJA) for achieving
complete transparency in the diamond industry.
Divine Solitaires was felicitated for being the
first-ever solitaire brand in India to offer complete
transparency in quality and pricing along with a unique
digital solitaire experience to diamond consumers.
Since its establishment in 2006, the brand has
introduced some pathbreaking innovations such as
a 123-parameter quality guarantee, a Nationwide
Standard & Transparent Price List, the Divine Solitaires
mobile application and a Solitaire Price Index. The brand
has an outreach in more than 160 stores across 82
cities in India, and has also reached out to consumers
in the United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand and
Nepal.
The National Jewellery Awards is considered as one
of the most prestigious jewellery award in the gems
and jewellery industry. The All India Gems and Jewellery
Domestic Council (GJC) accords recognition and award
through the NJA platform annually to stimulate talent,
honour innovation and creativity of the jewellers and
designers to boost the industry.
On winning the award Jignesh Mehta, Founder and
Managing Director Divine Solitaires said “At Divine
Solitaires, we constantly strive to meet our customers’
requirements and make their experience of solitaire
shopping, hassle-free. We thank the GJC for selecting
us for this award and recognising our efforts in the
gems and jewellery industry. This award will further
motivate us to work harder in creating world-class
solitaire jewellery and offer unique services which will
benefit the customers and the industry as a whole.”
58 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Etc
Nirupa Bhatt
Managing Director
GIA India Steps Down
After 12 years of serving as the Managing Director of GIA India
& Middle East, Nirupa Bhatt will be stepping down from her
position. With her experience and knowledge that she has
garnered over three decades, she was responsible for growing GIA
India as one of the leading grading laboratories in India. A globally
renowned gemological institute, GIA enjoys a distinct reputation
in the industry in India today, thanks to her leadership. Bhatt
will continue to be on a consultant advisor for GIA following her
resignation.
“I intend to transition from my current operational role as managing
director of GIA India to
a consulting advisory
position focusing on
GIA’s Diamond Origin
Report service. This
decision offers a smooth
succession plan for GIA
India, with me available to
personally guide a quality
transition for customers
and the trade,” said Bhatt.
Nirupa Bhatt is widely
recognised for her
valuable contribution
to the Indian gems and
jewellery industry. She
has been an authority
figure in the global
diamond value chain.
Before joining GIA in
2008, she was with the
mining conglomerate
“Rio Tinto” (owner of
Argyle Diamond Mine
in Australia & Diavik
Diamond Mine in Canada)
for 20 years. At Rio Tinto, she used to manage technical assistance
programmes to improve the yield and make of diamonds, and
headed the Indo Argyle Diamond Council to promote diamond
jewellery made in India.
Sriram Natarajan, currently vice president of laboratory operations
since joining GIA India in August 2017, will become managing
director of GIA India, reporting to GIA India’s board of directors.
Before his current role, Natarajan held operational and leadership
roles in a variety of international industries. Read Online
cricket shook
hands with youth
from jewellery
business
Cricket in India forms an
integral part of every forum.
It attracts youngsters from
various segments of the society
and trade. Jewellers Youth Premier
League is an annual event by
Jewellers Youth Forum (JYF). Its
Season 4 kicked off with a launch
party.
This star-studded event
witnessed participation of the
entire gems and jewellery industry
and was held at Epitome in Lower
Parel. Teams were formed of cricket
players from amongst different
jewellery manufacturers and were
bought by cricket enthusiasts.
This event drew support from PCI,
Unique Chains, Swarovski, RSBL
and GupShup.
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 59

The Big STory
60 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Decoding the Psyche of a Bride
The
UlTimaTe
Bridal
PersonaliTy
GUide
From celeb lovers, practical-minimalists to
the quality-conscious who sees deep value in
craftsmanship and someone who wants to look
completely traditional head to toe, here’s our
dictionary on bridal personality types and the
kind of jewellery they would ideally wear says
Vijetha Rangabashyam
Not every bride is the same. There is
someone who is a trendsetter. There
is someone who is a trend-follower.
There is the minimalist bride. There is
the bride who wants to go all out. Some
brides want to take their time in making a
purchase while some buy on the spot if they
like something. And then there is the entire
bridal party – the mothers, the mothers-inlaw,
the sisters and the distant aunts – who
all weigh in too. So, what is supposed to be a
pleasurable experience, at times can be very
harrowing. It is the jewellers’s prerogative
then, to understand the bride and how she
thinks before presenting her his offerings.
We are not saying that these are the only
kind of brides you’ll ever meet, but we are
saying that it is highly likely that any bride
who walks into your store, may fall under
one of these categories.
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 61

The Big STory
Over the years, a bride’s
taste has evolved in a
way that she doesn’t
want huge chunky
pieces of jewellery,
which can be worn
only once or twice and
then kept in the locker
for the rest of her life.
We recommend big
pieces, which have
versatility, and can be
worn in different ways.
Brides don’t want to
come back later saying
they’re bored of their
jewellery. They want
jewellery that is simple
and everlasting. Light
greens and pastels are
still trending and pearls
and emeralds never go
out of fashion
Snehal Choksey,
Shobha Shringar
listen
Type
01
The Individualist
This bride has a mind of her own. Sure,
she listens to her near and dear ones, but
when it comes to signing off on a piece,
it is her opinion that matters. The Anushka
Sharmas and the Deepika Padukones of the
world don’t influence her – she wants to make
a statement of her own. “These brides have
done their homework. They’ve gone through
Instagram and Pinterest before coming to us.
So, they exactly know what they want,” says
Ishu Datwani of Anmol Jewellers. Unlike
earlier, an independent bride is also involved
in every aspect of the wedding. “Over the
years, the jewellery needs of a bride have
changed quite a lot. This is due in part to the
couple’s increased involvement in all aspects
of the wedding itself. Unlike earlier where the
family decided the clothes and jewellery of
the bride, today’s brides want to be involved at
every stage from the curation of their outfits
and jewellery to the selection of venues and
caterers,” opines Biren Vaidya of Rose.
This bride, who has her own thought
process, is also someone with a strong sense
of personal style. She could’ve done her
background and research, but ultimately tends
Akoya Jewels
RK Jewellers South
Extension 2
to wear what looks good on her. “These
brides want to wear jewellery as per their
personal taste. For me personally, if I show a
piece that Anushka wore for her wedding to
a client, she will not be sitting with me the
next time. They want to make their own
statement. It’s their ego that comes into play.
They don’t want the replicated look. When a
celebrity wears something, it is all over social
media and everybody starts wearing the same
piece,” says Devashish Kamdar of Occasions
Fine Jewellery.
What she could wear: A lot of offbeat gemstones like corals. She loves
colour! Everybody loves a beautiful piece of jadau jewellery, but with this bride,
there’s no such thing as showing too many options. Give her all you’ve got!
62 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

P.C. Totuka & Sons
Tanya Rastogi
Type
02
The Traditionalist
She is someone who could be relatively
younger – falls in the 22-25 age bracket.
This bride is likely to be swayed by her
mother’s choice. She could be someone who
sticks to the rulebook, a conformist. They also
tend to go for classic styles – gold jewellery
for the mehndi and diamonds for the more
important functions like wedding or reception.
“A bride who wants to look traditional might
go in for jadau either for the mehndi or the
wedding. If she is going to wear diamonds for
the wedding, then it is highly likely that she
would wear jadau for the mehndi,” says Anil
Sankhwal of JH Jewellers. A bride who wants
to look completely traditional is also someone
who wants to keep everybody happy. “The
mother and mother-in-law may want her to
wear something that is elaborate, to showcase
everything they have, especially during the
weddings. She might do so for the wedding,
but might choose to go for simpler pieces
during other occasions,” says Meha Bhargava,
Style Inc., of Style Inc., an image consulting
company that deals with wedding styling as
well as personal shopping.
These brides also like to go in for an
over the top look. “They want heavy pieces
and they want to wear everything possible.
Maang tika, haath phool, nath - the works,”
says Puja Shah of Aurus. Indian weddings
are also becoming bigger and grander these
days, and the number of events in a wedding
allows the bride to showcase as many looks as
possible. “For sangeet, she could wear fusion
jewellery and for wedding, she could go in
for an elaborate piece that is very traditional
looking. For reception, it is always diamonds
with coloured gemstones. A pure white look
(white diamonds) is something these brides
have been embracing for a very long time,”
says Sanjay Gupta of Tibarumals Jewellers.
What she could wear: Classic pieces with a lot of diamonds. She loves
elaborate, timeless pieces like jadau with meenakari.
Traditionally mehendis
and small pre-wedding
functions used to
be occasions for
traditional gold jewellery,
however, today’s
brides prefer bright and
colourful clothes as
well as jewellery. We
recommend sets that
use brighter gemstones
that will go well with
pastel outfits - like pink
sapphires, Siberian
emeralds and corals.At
the sangeet or cocktail,
brides usually wear
Indo-western gowns
and thus prefer diamond
jewellery with precious
gemstones like emeralds
or rubies depending on
the colour of her gown.
Finally for weddings,
brides definitely go with
a jadau set that would go
perfectly with a sari or a
lehenga
Biren Vaidya, Rose
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 63

The Big STory
Aurus
Earlier brides were in the
age bracket of 22 and
25. Now the average age
of a bride is between 25-
27 years. Their thought
process has evolved.
Earlier, elders would
decide what to buy but
now days the girls have
their own mind. They
don’t succumb to any
pressure. A lot of this has
to do with the economic
strata they belong to as
well. Depending on the
monetary background,
even if she is modern,
when it comes to her
wedding ceremony, she
always likes to go Indian
where uncut diamonds
work very well. For
cocktail, we see diamond
chokers and necklaces
and for mehndi, a lot of
these girls are willing
to only wear a pair of
earrings and nothing else
Ishu Datwani,
Anmol Jewellers
listen
Type
03
The Smart-One
These brides see value for money in
everything. They don’t want to invest
in impractical, chunky pieces that they
can’t wear in the future. They are likely to go
in for layered looks, where they opt for pieces
that don’t have to be necessarily put away
in the locker. “Over the years, a bride’s taste
has evolved in a way that she doesn’t want
huge chunky pieces of jewellery, which can
only be worn once or twice and then kept in
the locker. We are recommending big pieces,
which have versatility, something that can be
worn in different ways. A big necklace can
be worn later as a choker, where the pendant
also can be worn with a chain later on,” adds
Snehal Choksey of Shobha Shringar.
When a bride walks into Puja Shah’s store,
she asks them an important question: if they
want to wear the jewellery in future as well.
“Unlike clothes, jewellery has a high monetary
value. So, brides think twice before investing
in a heavy piece. They may want to wear it
in future as well,” adds Puja. Rose, known for
their elaborate bridal jewellery in diamonds
and precious gemstones has also witnessed a
change in brides’ mindset when it comes to
locking away jewellery after the wedding is
over. “These brides prefer jewellery in their
trousseau not only for their wedding but pieces
that have multiple uses. Hence, the concept of
layering jewellery has become quite popular
so that brides can wear individual pieces on a
more regular basis,” adds Biren.
Aurus
What she could wear: Practical, lightweight pieces – with larger gemstones
but less volume.
64 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Achal Jewels
Type
04
The Minimalist
Subtle says it all for these brides. She is
likely to wear a saree from Raw Mango
with a choker. They wear jewellery for
their own satisfaction, rather than pleasing
other people or showing off what they have.
“Brides who are minimalists like to get into
the finer details. They like to wear necklaces
with perhaps a single line of polki. They are
not wearing jewellery to show off but it is
just an extension of their personality. They
want to know what technique is used to craft
the jewellery, they check whether there is
meenakari or nakshi work at the backside of
a necklace. They care about the minor details
that may not add to the drama. They like the
subtle luxury,” adds Puja.
Jewellery for these brides is not decided in
isolation. If their outfits are elaborate, then
jewellery is definitely a mere accessory to
make the outfit shine. “The trend has changed
from elaborate designs to simpler pieces that
have more value for money and something
that can be used even after the wedding is
over. The set she wears during her wedding
could be heavy, but the rest are all functional,”
adds Anil. Brides who like to be subtle are also
particular about craftsmanship. “They tend to
go in for pastel colours in soft tones of pink
and green. These brides like a simple necklace
with rosecuts as well,” adds Devashish.
Sparsh
Jewellers
What she could wear: Handcrafted pieces, pastel coloured gemstones and
meenakari. Classic necklaces with rosecut diamonds.
Brides who are
minimalists like to get
into the finer details.
They like to wear
necklaces with perhaps
a single line of polki.
They are not wearing
jewellery to show off but
it is just an extension of
their personality. They
want to know what
technique is used to
craft the jewellery, they
check whether there
is meenakari or nakshi
work at the backside of
a necklace. They care
about the minor details
that might not add to
the drama. They like the
subtle luxury
Puja Shah, Aurus
listen
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 65

The Big STory
Tanya
Rastogi for
Lala Jugal
Kishore
Jewellers
The trend has changed
from elaborate designs
to simpler pieces that
have more value for
money and something
that can be used even
after the wedding is
over. The set she wears
during her wedding
could be heavy, but the
rest are all functional
pieces. Comfort is
most important. A
very heavy earring is
something they are
not comfortable with.
Even if it is for a couple
of hours, they don’t
want to buy it. They
would much rather
wear something that is
practical but also looks
nice
Anil Sankhwal,
JH Jewellers
listen
Type
05
The Revivalist
Many brides walk into a jewellery store
with an heirloom piece wanting to
give it a complete overhaul. Some
are entire sentimental about the piece because
it is a gift from their grandmother, while
others simply want to change the piece to suit
the current times. “ We recently had a client
who came to us with a piece of jewellery that
her grandmother had bought for her when
she was young. It was pretty delicate to be
worn on the wedding day, but the piece had
sentimental value. So, we made her a long
necklace to match the choker. The old piece
was classic without much design value. When
a bride comes to us wanting to change a piece,
we usually play around with the beading or
the stringing. For example, if she brought
S.K. Seth Co Jewellers
something with pearls hanging in a necklace,
we would probably add big rubies to it,” adds
Devashish.
Sometimes, it is not just the bride; it is the
bride’s mother too. They come in asking to
tweak a piece of jewellery gifted to them
by their mother-in-law to give to their
daughters. “One customer came to me and
she brought a heritage piece made for the
Maharaja by a European jeweller. She wanted
to break it to give it to her daughters, and I
remember convincing her not to do it as it
was a very important piece. But we broke it
eventually. Lot of heirloom pieces are plain
gold or something that is studded with a lot
of gemstones. Sometimes a bride come to
us, asking us to melt the gold and make an
entirely new piece. It happens quite often,”
says Anil.
What she could bring: Heavy pieces in gold that are not great in design!
66 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Type
These brides have probably walked into
five stores before coming to you. They
have read everything there is to read
about jewellery. They have travelled the world
and know what is in trend. They don’t mind
spending the extra money as long as they get
good quality, which means pieces that are
everlasting. These brides are more focused and
they probably already know what they want.
“These brides are very quality conscious. They
are very particular about how the piece falls
Jewels of Jaipur
06
The Quality-Conscious, Know-it-All
on them, about the shape of the piece etc. to
convince a person who can’t make up their
mind is almost impossible, better to keep quiet
and let them choose the piece. But for someone
who is particular, it is the role of a jeweller to
ensure that the jewellery fits her well and she
is given what she wants. Brides from affluent
families are extremely well informed. They
know gemstones and all the mines they come
from. However, the awareness of diamonds is
much more than colour gemstones,” says Anil.
What they could wear: Pieces heavy on craftsmanship with best quality
gemstones and diamonds
Bigger diamond sizes
and bigger gemstones
are popular with brides.
Emeralds and rubies have
always been a favourite.
Some brides prefer pastel
colours and even corals,
but later they change it
to red or green, as these
tones with south sea
pearl go with any outfit.
We also work with a lot
of tumble beads. Brides
want to wear jewellery as
per their personal taste. If I
show a piece that Anushka
wore for her wedding to
a client, the client will not
sit with me the next time.
They want to make their
own statement. They
don’t want the replicated
look. When a celebrity
wears something, it is
all over social media and
everybody starts wearing
the same thing
Devashish Kamdar,
Occasions Fine Jewellery
listen
Earlier it was all about wearing large, heirloom pieces that belonged to their
mothers or grandmothers. Now, brides want to be more glamorous. We just
worked with a bride in Udaipur, who wore this very unconventional piece with a lot
of gemstones for one of the functions. A lot of them are wearing pieces that are
not run-of-the-mill. When it comes to weddings, it is about showing off – she is
wearing three sets of necklaces – a choker, a slightly longish necklace as well as a
long haar. But for other functions, brides tend to take it easy! Pastel meenakari is
very in and navratan jewellery has also become very popular
Meha Bhargava , Style Inc. listen
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 67

The Big STory
68 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Type
Shree Jee Jaipur
07
The Celebrity Lover
Thanks to big Bollywood weddings
and films like Padmaavat, brides tend
to follow footsteps of their favourite
celebrities. They curate looks of who they
want to look like and bring photo references to
the jeweller. “This is more common in brides
from a tier 2 city like Pune. A Bandra bride
from Mumbai doesn’t come with references
of celebrities,” says Ishu.
Case in point, Anushka Sharma. When
the star got married, the popularity of jadau
jewellery rose overnight. Brides from tier 2
cities also have more aspirational levels and
they tend to resonate with celebrities. “They
want exactly the same piece what the celebrity
is wearing. We try to give them a match,
however, we modify it a little bit according to
the bride’s structure and personality. Anushka
Sharma’s choker was a big hit,” says Snehal.
Social media is also a game changer when it
comes to what the brides want to wear. “When
Deepika Padukone and Sonam Kapoor got
married, it was all over social media. Brides
came in asking for the naath Deepika wore
and the gutta pusalu necklace Sonam wore,”
says Sanjay.
What they could wear: Jadau jewellery made popular by the celebs!
Brides these days are
opting for something
that is minimal and
wearable. They consider
layering and pieces
that can be worn later.
They are more sensible
and independent. They
tend to wear traditional
pieces for wedding and
contemporary pieces for
other functions. They
prefer wearing jewellery
that define them. Girls
today know how to strike
the perfect balance.
During sangeet, a bride
is likely to go in for fusion
pieces and for reception;
we recommend diamond
jewellery with a hint
of colour gemstones.
Comfort brings the best
in brides, so, we suggest
classic pieces with larger
stones, not necessarily
large in volume
Sanjay Gupta,
Tibarumals Jewellers
listen
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 69

RedcaRpet Jewels
Jewels from Oscars 2020
Sparkling
all the
Way!
From Vintage diamond
festoon necklaces to
striking hair accessories and
brooches, jewellery at the
Oscars this time exuded old
Hollywood charm
Classic diamond necklaces, over the top cuffs,
minimalist earrings and quirky hair accessories –
this Oscars saw it all and we mean all! Actors shone
in auction-worthy diamond necklaces that complemented their
off-shoulders and décolletages quite beautifully. We saw A-listers
making a glittering impression with jewels in yellow gold as well!
Brands like Forevermark, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Gucci, Chanel and
Louis Vuitton were widely seen while new entrants like Nikos Koulis and
Faraone Mennell also got their well deserved attention! Here are our favourite
pieces worn with so much élan by these leading ladies!
Salma Hayek looked
stately in a Boucheron
diadem and earrings
Charlize Theron
shone bright in a
Tiffany & Co. necklace
with 165 diamonds
including a marquise
diamond drop (over 21
carats) set in platinum
Cynthia Erivo was quite the
show stopper with a ring on
almost every finger—on one
hand cut out floral designs and
the other more edgy styles
70 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Florence Pugh
looked spectacular in
a Louis Vuitton necklace
with a 21 carat Imperial
topaz from Riders of
the Knight collection
Gal Gadot
dazzled in Tiffany
& Co. ‘Clara Necklace’
with an oval diamond
(over 11 carats) and
mixed-cut diamonds,
set in platinum
Greta Gerwig
was quite the
stunner in Bvlgari’s
High Jewelry Collection
necklace of platinum,
emeralds and
diamonds
Julia Louis-Dreyfus wore a
breathtaking Harry Winston Wave
necklace with a total of 60.18-carats
of diamonds, set in platinum
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 71

RedcaRpet Jewels
Mindy Kaling
looked like a million
bucks in her yellow
gown and Chopard
floral fringe diamond
necklace
Kristen Wiig
looked flaming hot in
her red outfit that she
coupled with a pair of
gold earrings by Nikos
Koulis
Regina King
sparkled
in Harry
Winston
diamond
bracelet and
rings
Margot Robbie completed her
beautiful gown with a pearl and lapis
brooch with a pearl tassel
72 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Sigourney Weaver matched
her emerald green gown with
diamond earrings by Kwiat
Sandra Oh complemented
her gorgeous beige sequin
gown with Pomellato diamond
curb chain cuffs and flexible
bracelets
Scarlett Johansson looks
elegant in her Forevermark x
Anita Ko Pear diamond drop
earrings set in 18K white gold
Saoirse Ronan is ever so charming in
Gucci High Jewelry butterfly hair clip
and chandelier earrings
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 73

RedcaRpet Jewels
Tonya Lewis Lee wore
a stunning titanium,
yellow gold and diamond
statement earrings by
Faraone Mennell
Zazie Beetz looked
spectacular in Bulgari
emerald and diamond
fringe necklace
74 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Special Feature
Jewels from Paris Couture week 2020
An eclectic displAy
of the world’s
finest jewels
In the City of Lights, at Paris Haute Couture Week, some of the
world’s finest and top of the line collection of high end jewellery
was unveiled. High jewellery holds immense inspiration value for
Indian jewellers, manufacturers and artisans
It was here that poetry and aesthetics walked
hand in hand with the world’s finest and
rarest collections of contemporary jewels.
The prestigious Place Vendôme and beyond,
was lit up with these out-of-the-world
dazzlers.
Cindy Chao’s Party
Collection
Cindy Chao, who founded her
namesake brand Cindy Chao The Art
Jewel in 2004, unveiled several new
pieces for the Black Label collection, her
most prestigious line, with just 36 one-ofa-kind
pieces created each year.
The Aurora Butterfly Brooch, which
features extraordinary triangular rose-cut
diamonds, pigeon’s blood Burmese rubies,
and beautiful gradations of deep-blue
sapphires layered with glowing yellow
diamonds deserves a special mention. Also
on view is the Emerald Sculptural Bangle,
featuring an extraordinary 7.61-carat
heart-shaped Colombian emerald; and her
Damask Rose Brooch crafted using an
18th-century wax sculpting technique.
Cindy’s creative legacy from her father
who was a sculptor and grandfather who
was an architect sets her apart from other
jewelers. The three-dimensional creations
that she displays are ones to watch-out for.
The titanium necklace from
2016 Black Label Masterpiece
is set with over 6,200
diamonds and accented with
224 yellow diamonds
76 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Open ring with diamonds, bluegreen
tourmaline, turquoise,
tsavorite garnets, opal and lacquer
in white gold
Necklace with diamonds,
cultured pearls, white opal,
pink, blue and yellow sapphires,
tsavorite garnets,
purple sapphires, mandarin
garnets, peridots, emeralds
and lacquer in white and
yellow gold
Connected rings with
turquoise, emeralds,
sapphires, diamonds and
lacquer in white gold
Between-the-finger
ring set with a cultured
purple pearl and vibrant
pink kunzite, pink
sapphires and diamonds
Dior et Moi
Showcasing 39 new designs, Dior’s new Dior et
Moi high-jewellry collection is a mix of the most
extraordinary and precious stones in avant-garde
colours and combinations. The pieces are crafted with semiprecious
and precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds, and
blue and pink sapphires. And speaking of colour, the new
line has plenty of it. The house’s artistic director Victoire
de Castellane brought together unconventional shades,
proportions, and shapes resulting in a unique and eyecatching
collection.
The earliest mention of a “toi et moi” ring dates back to
the end of the 18th century when Napoleon offered a gold
ring that featured a diamond and a sapphire to his first wife.
Then it was John Kennedy who offered Jacqueline Bouvier
a gorgeous emerald and diamond ring. The main feature of
the “toi et moi” designs is the presence of two stones next to
each other.
Fashionably set, lacquer appears in 15 unexpected
colours and is sprayed on brushed gold. Diamonds and
emeralds in an assortment of cuts are paired with red spinels,
tourmalines, and turquoise—but it’s the glittering opal that
takes away all the credit, as seen in this open ring.
Black Label Masterpiece
IX “Damask Rose
Brooch,” from 2019
The 2008 Ruby Butterfly brooch
depicts a butterfly emerging from
its cocoon, and is set with two
non-heated Burmese rubies totally
12.89cts, surrounded by fancycoloured
diamonds and colourchanging
sapphires
Emerald Sculptural Bangle set
with 5,305 diamonds, sapphires,
demantoids, colour-changing
garnets, tsavorites and
alexandrites, and topped with a
7.61ct Colombian emerald
Aurora butterfly brooch with pigeon’s
blood Burmese rubies totalling
8.48ct, 10.19ct of triangular rose
cut diamonds, 15.94 ct of yellow
diamonds, rubies & sapphires set in
aluminum & titanium
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 77

Special Feature
Necklace with 10ct D colour
flawless clarity cushion cut
diamond, pearls, sapphires
and spinels in yellow gold
and platinum
Tweed contrasté
asymmetrical earrings
with pearl, onyx and
diamonds set in yellow
gold and platinum
Tweed brodé brooch with
diamonds in white gold
The Tweed Collection
by Chanel
Tweed has been an integral part of
Chanel ever since Coco Chanel
transported it from the world of
menswear and British aristocracy into
women’s fashion during the 1920s.
Under the direction of Virginie Viard,
who took over as creative director last
year, the collection includes 45 pieces
crafted with a variety of precious
stones in interlocking patterns.
Patrice Leguéreau, director of the
Chanel fine jewelry studio, has created
a new interpretation of Coco Chanel’s
classic motif of tweed. Gold, platinum,
and onyx appear handspun to compose
patterns of twists, grooves, and chess
boards. Creating a true fabric with
jewellery, the stones and pearls appear
sewn together rather than set.
Necklace with 20.40ct
Imperial topaz button,
diamonds and pearls set in
yellow gold and platinum
Tweed cordagé ring with
diamonds in yellow gold
and platinum
78 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

A 61.79 carat emerald that will soon be
the centerpiece of a necklace
Chopard’s exquisite gemstones and
diamond earrings
Chopard presented an assortment of precious and rare stones
from around the world. On view in the vitrines were beautiful
unheated sapphire, a pear-shaped pigeon’s blood ruby and a
Colombian emerald weighing a staggering 61.79 carats, and a vibrant
turquoise-hued 34.63-carat Paraiba tourmaline.
This original assortment of jewels was composed by Caroline
Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of the house. Four
diamonds exhibited the highest degrees of purity imaginable for a
diamond: grade D-flawless and D-internally flawless, all of type IIA.
Chopard also presented diamonds and among the standouts were
earrings made of four D-flawless and D-internally flawless diamonds,
all type IIA, which is highest degree of clarity.
Earrings in 18-carat white gold
set with two pear-shaped D-
flawless diamonds weighing 7 and
7.2 carats, and two D-internally
flawless brilliant-cut diamonds
weighing 2.6 and 2.5 carats, all
type IIA
A vibrant turquoisehued
34.63-carat
Paraiba tourmaline
Louis Vuitton’s 1,758
carats uncut diamond
Louis Vuitton made a major statement at
Paris Haute Couture Week by presenting an
exceptional rough diamond of 1,758 carats.
Possibly, the most exciting news heard around
the world in the category of jewels was the
discovery of the second largest rough diamond in
the history – and its acquisition by Louis Vuitton.
Counting at 1758 carats, it was discovered in the
Lucara Diamond Corporation’s 100 per cent
owned Karowe mine in Botswana on April 19th
2019. It’s called Sewelô which means “rare find”
in the Setswana language and is the size of a
tennis ball, measuring at 83mm x 62mm x 46mm
and weighing 352 grams. As the proud owners
of the diamond, Louis Vuitton is planning to use
its extraordinary variety to create bespoke-cut
diamonds, as directed by Francesca Amfitheatrof,
the brand’s artistic director for jewellery and
watches. Interestingly, the largest rough diamond
ever to be discovered was Cullinan, at 3106
carats, in 1905, which has since been transformed
into British Crown Jewels.
A cushion-cut 13.49ct
Madagascan pink
sapphire
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 79

Special Feature
Plume de Paon Question Mark
necklace set with a 12.41-carat
pink tourmaline on pink gold
Lierre de Paris
Question Mark
necklace pavéd
with emeralds
Point d’Interrogation by Boucheron
The eight new Point d’Interrogation necklaces by Claire Choisne,
creative director of Boucheron, have an impressive elegance. The
seams, updates, and precious metalwork that light up a masterful,
diamond-studded peacock feather necklace call back to trends from the
end of the 19th century. The same level of expertise is visible through
the Lierre de Paris necklace, whose animated leaves are set with emerald
(which, in itself, is a feat that connoisseurs will appreciate).
Here’s a piece with history and fine aesthetics meeting in curls at the
neck of a fashionista. Boucheron’s original question mark necklace dates to
1879. During the Paris Haute Couture Week, it gets a bold update with a
series of eight dazzling new pieces conceived by Claire. The pieces of this
new collection include a version with a cluster of sculptural hydrangeas
coated in iridescent mother-of-pearl and one with a shimmering set of
golden wheat stalks. The most elegant version features a simple line of
diamonds with 11 cultured pearls.
Feuilles d’Acanthe
Question Mark
necklace set with
diamonds on
yellow gold
Nuage de Fleurs Question
Mark necklace set with
mother-of-pearl and
diamonds (short version)
80 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Special Feature
How-to
What jeWellery
retailers teach
their sales staff?
Your sales staff is the most important asset to
your store. From the time a client walks in to the
moment they make a purchase and walk out, the
fate of your business lies in the hands of efficient
sales staff. From hiring the right staff, to training
and teaching them the right values, here’s how
jewellers are equipping their sales staff to handle
the toughest of clients says R Sugandha
Lethal airborne viruses and rising gold
prices are all adding to the mountain
of challenges that the industry is facing.
Sales personnel in the jewellery business
along with their employers seem to be
reeling under the pressure. Real gold and
diamond jewellery are considered a mustbuy
for every family wedding in India. From
the birth of a child, till his or her wedding
day, gold has held its sway over most Indian
households, across the planet. Devising the
right sales strategies for this business is a
daunting task.
82 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Striking a fine balance between
persona and knowledge
“In India people look at jewellery as an
investment, today they may be looking at it
as a luxury. Buying gold is an outing of sorts
-- brides don’t come alone to buy jewellery.
They come along with nearly their whole
family, mother, aunts, grandmother, cousins,
friends etc,” informs Pratiksha Prashant
of Kishandas & Co. More the number of
people who accompany the bride, bigger the
challenge for the salesperson. He or she has to
please one and all in the party. “A sales person
should have a balance of friendly qualities
and knowledge. A good sales person should
have a pleasing personality and the ability to
read the customer. S/he must strike a balance
between firmness and easygoing nature of
a friend you can trust. Selling jewellery is
nothing but identifying what the client needs
most accurately ,” enlightens industry veteran,
Vijay Khanna of Khanna Jewellers. While Yash
Agarwal of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas says,
“Our sales representatives undergo a thorough
screening and training process to adapt to
the brand’s aesthetics.” A pleasing personality
and a dignified demeanour add value to the
jewellery sales business, like nothing else.
When your clients are niche, the
personality of your sales staff
too has to be quite a match
to their standards. It’s not just
about how presentable they
are; a clean shaven look, Indian
attire and an etiquette to match
will take a salesperson leagues
ahead, while being able to land
customers
Pratiksha Prashant,
Kishandas & Co.
listen
Buying jewellery is an
important task for the client,
whose daughter is getting
married. A good salesperson
will read his client and will
be able to discern the finer
elements of their preferred
jewellery and the budget they
have allocated for buying
it within just the few initial
moments of their discussion
Vijay Khanna,
Khanna Jewellers
listen
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 83

Special Feature
Gaining the trust of
clients
“A good salesman does not sell, he wins the
trust of his customer,” asserts Nakshtra Mehta
of Rare Heritage. Trust matters the most in
the jewellery business. “Like family physicians,
in India we have family jewellers. Indians like
to buy from jewellers with whom they have
been doing business for generations,” informs
Khanna. In fact, these jewellers become
part of extended families for many buyers.
“We have many such family clients, where
the grandmother has bought her wedding
jewellery from us, and her granddaughter too
comes in to buy her own wedding jewellery
from our store. Kishandas & Co. has become
a legacy,” beams Pratiksha. Therefore trust
becomes second nature to all their staff
members.
Sales in this field, isn’t just about selling
products, it’s about befriending the client.
According to Khanna, “Trust is an important
aspect of selling, and it’s also the trust that the
salesperson displays in the brand and products
which matters the most.”
A good salesman does not
sell, he wins the trust of
his customer. Personality
is not merely one’s exterior
self. It has more to do with
the mental framework of a
person, which needs to be
thoroughly positive
Nakshatra Mehta,
Rare Heritage
listen
Paying attention to grooming
“When your clients are niche, the personality
of your sales staff too has to be quite a match
to their standards. It’s not just about how
presentable they are; a clean shaven look, Indian
attire and an etiquette to match will take a
salesperson leagues ahead, while being able
to land customers,” explains Pratiksha. Adding
to her sentiment, Khanna asserts, “A smiling
face and standing up to welcome a customer
into the shop, and making the customer feel at
home is very important. Buying jewellery is an
important task for the client, whose daughter
is getting married. A good salesperson will
read his client and will be able to discern the
finer elements of their preferred jewellery and
the budget they have allocated for buying it
within just the few initial moments of their
discussion.”
Isn’t personality a complex word?
“Personality is not merely one’s exterior self.
It has more to do with the mental framework
of a person, which needs to be thoroughly
positive,” explains Mehta. “People with too
many worries and those who are bogged
down by their personal lives can never exude
the kind of positive energy they need in their
job,” says Vijay Khanna. No one likes to see a
grumpy face and a person of ill temper serving
them. “In this business, personality has to be
teamed up with excellent product knowledge
and ability to reach out to clients. Hard and
aggressive selling strategies can ruin the
chances of an actual sale. Clients need to be
given the freedom to make the right choice,”
explains Pratiksha.
84 | february-march 2020 | www.indianjeweller.in
INDIAN JEWELLER

Developing a rapport with clients
With 25 years of taking over several
responsibilities in their family-run store in
Hyderabad, Pratiksha recalls, “When I first
started looking after the store, I used to be
the only lady in the store and I remember
my father-in-law telling me about the
esteemed clients who shop with us. I used
feel intimidated by their presence and
would hesitate to talk to them freely. Today’s
youngsters are a lot more confident, they talk
to some of the most powerful clients in an
equal yet dignified tone. They are unperturbed
by the inequality in power or status. These
things do not disturb their discussion, and I
feel it is important for business as well. They
are in a better position to establish a rapport
with our clients.” Customer connect plays a
vital role in bringing back customers to the
store. “We encourage our staff to create an
emotional connection with every valued
walk-in. Going by the phrase ‘it is not what
you say; it s how you say it,’” opines Agarwal.
A good sales staff always establishes a good
connection with the client. “I always tell
my sales staff, never be over zealous in your
determination to make the person across
the table a customer, you have to be able to
make him or her your friend, sister or aunt,
you have make her feel like a family member,
compassion and empathy go a long way in
establishing rapport with the client,” says
Khanna.
Never be too pushy with clients
Subtlety ascends to become a virtue of
prime importance when it comes to the art
of selling jewellery. Direct and hard selling
tactics will never work in this field. “No one
likes to be pressurized into buying jewellery.
You would never re-enter a store if you find
sales persons pressurizing you into buying,”
explains Pratiksha, whose efforts have always
been directed towards giving total freedom
to buyers. “A jewellery store must exude an
elegant, home-like feeling, where the client is
made to feel like a queen or princess – that is
what subtlety can do,” explains Mehta. Subtle
is powerful in this business. “Get the client to
clinch the deal. Show her a way to do what
you want her to do, that is skill. Catering to the
needs of your client is of utmost importance,
never compromise on what the client really
wants. If you do not have a product to match
at that point of time in the store, accept it, get
it made-to-order, but give the client what she
really wants. Don’t coax her into buying what
you want to sell,” explains Khanna, without
mincing words. Sales staff must maintain a
cordial distance with clients, so
as to allow them to make their
own choice. “Hovering over
clients at all times will serve no
purpose,” feels Agarwal.
All in all, jewellery sales
is a stiff cliff to ascend and
with added competition and
several factors all out there to
jeopardise the efforts of sales
personnel in this field, bearing
these time-tested ideas in mind
will surely bring in some good
business.
Our sales representatives
undergo a thorough
screening and training
process to adapt to the
brand’s aesthetics. We
encourage our staff to create
an emotional connection
with every valued walk-in –
Going by the phrase ‘it is not
what you say; it s how you
say it
Yash Agarwal,
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 85

SpeciAL FeAture
Light-Weight Jewellery
The LighTweighT
Promise
As gold becomes dearer by the day, retailers are looking to stock up on
affordable, light-weight jewellery crafted in 18K gold as that’s where the
consumers are headed. Manufacturers on the other hand are trying to
push all boundaries to create feather-light pieces without compromising on
design and quality observes Vijetha Rangabashyam
credit: Lotus Jewellery creation
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 87

Special Feature
Credit: Kanakratna Exim Pvt. Ltd.
Jewellery buying in India has mostly been
occasion centric. Women are seldom seen
wearing heavy pieces of jewellery at work
place. With more women being employed
and having more disposable incomes, they are
increasingly looking at light-weight options to
wear every day. The little nest built for buying
jewellery is splurged on buying multiple,
smaller and lighter pieces as opposed to one
large piece during occasions like Akshaya
Tritiya. With gold prices soaring, light weight
jewellery in 18K gold seems more affordable.
On the other hand, for weddings and such
other occasions were gifting comes into play,
there is a growing market for jewellery that
looks big, but is not heavy in weight. As the
demand for such jewellery is on an uptick,
manufacturers are pushing the envelope and
are coming out with light-weight collections
even in antique and jadau. Rajkot today is a
bastion for light-weight jewellery, wherein a
handful of players use powerful technology
to create light-weight magic. They travel the
world, especially to places like Italy, Turkey and
Germany to not just buy the latest machinery
but also find out about trends in light-weight
jewellery.
18K for the Win
Buying capacity of consumers who walk
into showrooms has drastically come down.
Retailers hence place orders for light-weight
jewellery in 18k gold. “Light-weight jewellery
in 18k gold is more affordable. Today the price
of 18k gold per gram is Rs 3200-3300. So,
retailers add making charges to this and sell
the same for around Rs.3700-3800. And
when it comes to designs, they want light
weight chains with pendants and necklaces
with cz stones,” says Vikram Jain of Kanakratna
Exim. Kanakratna has been following the
footsteps of Italy and Turkey when it comes
to manufacturing jewellery because their
technology is far superior. Their lightweight
pieces whether in rhodium or colour stones are
inspired by Italian and Turkish manufacturing
prowess. “Italians have mastered in mixing
gold with different colours. Earlier rose gold
was popular, now chocolate coloured gold
is also becoming popular and all the big
manufacturers in India are following this
trend. After the increase in gold price, hollow
jewellery is also fast moving. A necklace set
looks like it is 40 g, but in reality it is only
between 15-20 g. In the coming IIJS show in
August there would also be 18k lightweight
antique jewellery and there will at least be a
difference of Rs 300 per gram compared to
jewellery of higher purity,” he adds.
Italians have mastered in
mixing gold with different
colours. Earlier rose gold
was popular, now chocolate
coloured gold is also
becoming popular and all the
big manufacturers in India are
following this trend. After the
increase in gold price, hollow
jewellery is also fast moving.
A necklace set looks like it is
40g, but in reality it is only
between 15-20g
Vikram Jain,
Kanakratna Exim Pvt. Ltd.
Credit: Lotus Jewellery Creation
88 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Credit: Tanvi Gold Cast LLP
We have machines, where
all we have to do is set the
program to get the desired
output. We have an Italian
machine where we feed in 5
mm gold sheets in A4 size.
We get the product in hand
after keying in specifications,
We either buy new machines
or upgrade existing ones.
Yash Vadher,
R.K. Silver & Gold
It’s all an Illusion
Rajkot based R.K. Silver & Gold is one of the
top five manufacturers of gold and silver lightweight
jewellery in India. They have been in
the business for over seven years using the
most advanced technology. The company has
been manufacturing jewellery ranging from
2g to 70-80g, the latter is made to look like
140 g. “We don’t make any casting jewellery,
all our pieces are made 100 per cent by CNC
machines. Retailers are looking to buy lightweight
pieces in 18k gold because the price is
markedly lesser than 22k. They all have a set
price in mind – they want to order jewellery
sets (necklaces & earrings) in 18k gold which
can be sold at Rs.40, 000. Consumers usually
buy these pieces for gifting purposes. We are
known for manufacturing 18k gold jewellery
in the same finish as 22k,” adds Yash Vadher
of R.K. Silver & Gold. The company started
off with plain gold jewellery, today, they
manufacturer laser cut jewellery with cz stones
as well as machine made light-weight pieces in
Bikaneri meena work.
As the demand for jadau jewellery grew,
they have even launched the same in lightweight
options. Getting skilled artisans to
make handcrafted light-weight jewellery has
always been a challenge. “We have machines,
where all we have to do is set the program
to get the desired output. We have an Italian
machine where we feed in five mm gold
sheets in A4 size. We get the product in hand
after keying in the specifications,” adds Yash.
The company produces around 15 kg of
jewellery per day and they believe in updating
their manufacturing machinery every four
months. “We either buy new machines or
upgrade existing ones. Our aim is to give best
products to our buyers. We are trendsetters
in India today. A lot of small jewellers and
manufacturers follow our designs. Our 2g
pendant sets look like 12g sets, and those
which are 12g sets look like 22g sets,” he adds.
Many manufacturers seeing the demand for
light-weight pieces are also creating jewellery
with hollow technique. Yash however says
hollow jewellery is not trending anymore.
Credit: R.K. Silver & Gold
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JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 89

Special Feature
“Hollow sets cannot be repaired at all. Our
current jewellery sets can be repaired; even if
there is 70 per cent damage, our sets can be
repaired.” They manufacture jadau jewellery
in light-weight as well. “It is completely
machine made, however, the finishing is done
by our in house artisans by hand,” he adds.
The Indo-Italian Route
India has always looked up to Italy when it
comes to manufacturing jewellery. Overtime,
adapting Italian manufacturing techniques has
given birth to Indo-Italian fusion jewellery.
Lotus Jewellery Creation, again Rajkot based,
is known for its innovative Indo-Italian
jewellery using laser and CNC technology.
“We rely heavily on paper casting technology.
Earlier, pieces would weight 100 grams but
the same can be finished today with just 40g,”
says Vineet Vasa of Lotus Jewellery Creation.
Credit: Tanvi Gold Cast LLP
However, machine only does so much,
creativity goes a long way in making jewellery
with so much detail. The sheer options that
Indo-Italian jewellery presents that too in
affordable price points has made this category
extremely popular amidst retailers. “We
go to Italy 3-4 times in a year, for training
and upgrading our machinery. Sometimes,
we bring their engineers to upgrade our
machines. Earlier, traditional jewellery had
good demand. Today net jewellery is in
demand. Fusion jewellery is in demand,
wherein we combine other substances with
gold. The price is lower because of the use of
other material. The jewellery looks bigger as
well. In western pieces, we also use ceramic
and steel,” quips Vasa. Lotus has around 500
workers in its manufacturing unit and produces
approximately 12 kilograms of jewellery every
day. Lotus has produced collections infusing
We go to Italy 3-4 times in a
year, for training and upgrading
our machinery. Sometimes,
we bring their engineers to
upgrade our machines. Fusion
jewellery is in demand, wherein
we combine other substances
with gold. The price is lower
because of the use of other
material. The jewellery looks
bigger as well. In western
pieces, we also use ceramic and
steel
Lotus Jewellery Creation
Credit: Lotus Jewellery Creation
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We manufacture casting
jewellery in 7-8g that
actually looks like 15g. We
are also into bridal lightweight
jewellery
,
Tanvi Gold Cast LLP
laser filigree with ultra light weight hollow
CNC diamond setting beads, 3D work,
feather light hollow bangles and mangalsutra
with cnc diamond faceting on very intricate
laser filigree and reversible filigree as well as
meenakari jewellery.
Affordable all the way
Tanvi Gold Cast produces around 7-8
kilograms of jewellery per day in its stateof-the-art
manufacturing unit in Rajkot.
Price is the main focus for this manufacturer.
As gold price is skyrocketing, Tanvi focuses
on producing light-weight jewellery in
unmatchable prices. “We manufacture casting
jewellery in 7-8g that actually looks like 15g.
We are also into bridal light-weight jewellery,”
says Bipin Viradiya of Tanvi. The company
uses laser and plate casting technology to
manufacture its pieces and manufacturers
jewellery ranging from 2 to 50g and the slightly
traditional pieces range from 30 to 100g. “We
have reduced our jewellery thickness. We
import bob machines and polishing machines
from Italy. The new polishing machine reduces
wastage as well,” adds Bipin. From antique
collections to enamel jewellery and pieces in
Swarovski stones, Tanvi manufactures trendy
pieces with price consciousness in mind.
Playing with Technology
Elvee Jewels manufactures delicate pieces
in diamonds in yellow and rose gold using
superior technology. “No one wants to wear
small-looking jewellery. They want to wear big
pieces but in light weight and the challenge
lies here. We try to create light-weight pieces
keeping the same strength, look, feel and size
in mind,” quips Kalpesh Vaghasiya of Elvee
Jewels. For Elvee, everything starts with a
good design. “We use AutoCAD software to
design pieces. Some pieces are made directly
in casting (using CNC machines). We alter
alloy content to bring in the strength. We
reduce alloy gauge, yet retain strength and size
in jewellery,” he adds. China and Italy have
been using advanced technology for many
years now and today, India too has adapted
the skill set and the technological know-how
because of rise in gold prices. “Technological
Technological upgradation
is a continuous process.
We need to modify each
and every process to make
light-weight jewellery. Our
jewellery is crafted in 14k
and 18k gold. We import
machinery from Italy and U.S.
Italian machinery produces
quality products. At present,
manufacturers are using laser
sintering machines where
in gold powder is used to
manufacture jewellery
Elvee Jewels
upgradation is a continuous process. We
need to modify each and every process to
make light-weight jewellery. Our jewellery
is crafted in 14k and 18k gold. Our designs
are modern ranging from 5g to 15g (for more
traditional pieces). We import machinery from
Italy and U.S. Italian machinery produces
quality products. At present, manufacturers are
using laser sintering machines where in gold
powder is used to manufacture jewellery,” adds
Kalpesh.
Credit: Elvee Jewels
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 91

In focus
Jhumkas from Mayura Amore collection, NAC Jewellers
Saloni Nimah gold
jhumkas, Candere
Traditional Jhumkas
Traditional earrings set in
22K gold with brilliant Nakshi
artistry inspired from Indian
Gods, Aisshpra Gems & Jewels
Beautiful jhumkas
with bird motifs,
Amrapali Jewels
Traditional
Bengali jhumkas
with filigree work,
Senco Gold &
Diamonds
EtErnal &
ElEgant
A jewellery staple in most
Indian households, the popular
jhumka has gone through a sea
of changes from its traditional
avatar. While some jewellers like
to keep it traditional others have
chosen to give it a twist with
new silhouettes while retaining
its playfulness. From traditional
temple jewellery style jhumkas
to those with intricate meenakari
work and carved stones, here are
our favourite pieces
Jhumkas with meenakari
work & polkis, Rambhajo’s
Earrings crafted in 22K gold with bird motif,
Shobha Shringar Jewellers
Jhumkas set in 22K gold with uncut diamonds
and enamelling, Aisshpra Gems & Jewels
Earrings set in 22 K Gold with traditional
inscriptions inspired from the Indian
mythology, Anmol Jewellers
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In focus
sautoir necklace crafted in
18 k gold set with morganite
melons, ruby beads, blue
opal, sapphire and diamonds,
Exquisite fine Jewellery
necklace with
colourstones,
Jewel saga
statement earrings, Kohinoor
Jewellers Agra
colour stone Jewellery
A SplASh of
ColourS
come spring, the air is suffused
with beautiful colours everywhere.
These kaleidoscopic pieces
adorning the most vibrant colour
stones in myriad hues, remind us
of nature and its many shades
spiral ring in18k yellow gold
studded with garnet, citrine & blue
sapphires, Kohinoor Jewellers Agra
Ring crafted in
multicoloured sapphires
& diamonds, Kohinoor
Jewellers Agra
Earrings in 18 K gold set
with coloured stones and
diamonds, Anmol Jewellers
Ring crafted in 18 K gold set with
sapphires and round brilliant
diamonds, Anmol Jewellers
cocktail ring with
amethyst, citrine & peridot,
Motisons Jewellers
Earrings crafted in diamonds, pink tourmaline
& Keshi pearls, Motisons Jewellers
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In focus
Coral &
diamond ring,
Motisons
Jewellers
Gold choker with floral
motifs, Om Jewellers
Floral Jewellery
Of BlOOms
& BlOssOms
Who isn’t moved or inspired by the sheer
beauty of a flower? Artists across the
board often take inspiration from the
femininity and the tenderness of a flower.
As pretty flowers bloom everywhere in
this season of colours, here are some of
our favourite pieces that celebrate this
universal motif in all their glory
Mesmerizingly designed
brooch with the depths and
curves of a flower set in 18
k white gold with diamonds
and rubies, Latique
Valentine rose
gemstone ring,
Candere
Carved
amethyst
earrings,
Kohinoor
Jewellers
Agra
Floral inspired studs crafted
in rose gold with diamonds,
Aisshpra Gems and Jewels
Gold flower cocktail ring,
Motisons Jewellers
Dahlia earrings, CaratLane
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JEWELLER
Floral earrings, Tanishq

In focus
Diamond kadas,
Om Jewellers
Character Study
Simply Charming
Janhvi Kapoor is the perfect millennial icon. She is the
girl next door who embraces a subtle sense of style with
hints of tradition. As we scrutinized her jewellery box, we
found her affinity towards beautiful pieces in diamonds.
Make no mistake though, for big fat Indian weddings,
she is quite the head turner who is always adorned in
the choicest of traditional pieces replete with polkis and
priceless gemstones. If you want to appeal more to the 20
something female, stock your store with these pieces
Beautiful pair of
earrings crafted
in 18k gold and
studded with semiprecious
stones,
Tanya Rastogi
Bangles set with Gemfields
Mozambican Rubies, Rosentiques
Fine Jewellery
Classic jadau earrings, Jewel Saga
Diamond chandelier style
earrings, Uma Ornaments
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Designscape
Vishal Kothari – V.A.K Fine Jewels
A Born Artist
A firm believer of slow luxury, Vishal Kothari creates high, artisanal,
handcrafted jewellery with handpicked gemstones. Over the years,
he has created his own design language that has appealed to a global
audience. Some of his pieces are sold at esteemed auction houses
for hefty sums. With all that pride and glory, Vishal continues to do
what he does best in his atelier in Mumbai, probably while listening to
Pink Floyd writes Vijetha Rangabashyam
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A
graduate gemologist, Mumbai-based
Vishal Kothari spent two decades in
his family’s jewellery manufacturing
company. Somewhere along the way, Vishal
felt the need to break away from his family
business and create jewellery that he could
resonate with. To realise his vision and artistic
hunger, he began his eponymous jewellery
brand, V.A.K Fine Jewels. Highly inspired
by museums, he weaves beautiful stories
around India’s rich heritage and culture
through his one-of-a-kind pieces that are
handcrafted painstakingly with the choicest
of gemstones. He designs not more than 120
pieces a year, some of which garner hefty
sums at prestigious auction houses across the
world. Vishal however didn’t always wanted
to be a jewellery designer. “I wanted to be a
sculptor. Or a couturier. Or a musician,” he
says. However, crafting jewellery came to him
naturally. “I guess I was born with it. But I
was never really excited about it. I didn’t want
to be in the jewellery “trade” as I saw it, and
disliked how jewellery in India was treated as
a commodity and a mere business. It’s when
I discovered that I could be an artist that
things got exciting. I had an urge to become
a creator,” he adds.
This urge to become a creator is what made
him steer clear from manufacturing jewellery
for the masses. He wants to create meaningful
pieces that stand the test of time and this is
evident in all of his works. “When I joined
my father I felt a sense of continuity but also
a lock down. Jewellery was appreciated for
its intrinsic value alone, not its design and
aesthetic value. I had my own ideas. And a very
strong design aesthetic. So I undid everything
– the factory, the office, the design ethos. So in
that sense you could say I am a first. A rebel.
A newbie,” he opines.
For Vishal, music and architecture have
been a huge inspiration. Bands like Pink Floyd
and Led Zeppelin and musicians like Dylan
and Jim Morrison have really impacted him
personally and his work. “They were pioneers,
risk-takers, rebels and originals. I have a strong
artisanal bent and find art everywhere. Most
recently the baroque edifice and interiors of
The Royal Opera House in Mumbai have
inspired me. I am creating a line of jewellery
based on this. I see jewellery as self-expression.
Not merely adornment,” he says. His label’s
spirit as he explains is India modern meets rock
n roll. “A critic in Europe called my pieces
maverick. I like that word. I guess my pieces
are artisanal and have a strong architectural
bent,” he adds.
Vishal’s jewellery is a smorgasbord of
wearable artworks crafted using a smattering
of rose cuts and portrait cuts (which he uses
a lot) both of which are ancient Indian cuts.
He only uses non-treated, rare, gemstones
and a lot of coloured gemstones like spinels,
emeralds and coloured sapphires. A design
first emerges in his mind and it evolves into
I didn’t want to be in
the jewellery “trade”
as I saw it, and disliked
how jewellery in
India was treated as
a commodity and a
mere business. It’s
when I discovered that
I could be an artist that
things got exciting. I
had an urge to become
a creator
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 103

Designscape
My design
vocabulary
is global; it
draws from art,
sculpture, nature
and motifs in
architecture. I am
very inspired by
the architecture
of my city –
Mumbai – Gothic,
Victorian, Indo-
Saracenic and at
times Art Deco
influences my
work
its own being. The ideation process of a piece
goes through days, often months. Vishal is a
firm believer of slow luxury – high artisanal,
handcrafted jewellery with rare gemstones
handpicked by him. “My design vocabulary
is global; it draws from art, sculpture, nature
and motifs in architecture. I am very inspired
by the architecture of my city – Mumbai –
Gothic, Victorian, Indo-Saracenic and at times
Art Deco influences my work,” he quips.
Much like his jewellery, his clients too
have an artistic predisposition. “My clients
are sensitive to art, sculpture and design. They
have a highly evolved aesthetic and look
at jewellery as a creation, an expression of
an artist, not in size, weight and price. She
wears jewellery to express herself. One piece
is often enough. My clients know they aren’t
just buying a piece of art but are also investing
in the same.”
His pieces have this distinct quality about
them, born out of sheer manufacturing
prowess. Gemstones are celebrated and their
beauty is kept intact. Not doing too much
while infusing soul into every element in a
piece takes a lot of skill. The gemstones in his
jewellery shine from all possible angles and
very little metal is used. “I use minimal metal
to highlight the boldness of the gemstones –
they almost float. A lot of R&D goes into
my work. I also hire the best of artisans and
train them extensively. Often a piece takes
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3-6 months to make, with me controlling
every step of the manufacturing. I have a
zero-error tolerance. I therefore can only
make 100-120 pieces a year. Each piece is
one-of-a-kind, designed by me and created
by my artisans in my atelier in Mumbai. I
like to think my pieces are intelligent. They
are always thinking.” Vishal has a soft spot for
spinels from Burmese mines. “They are always
non-treated and come in beautiful hues like
pigeon blood, pink, purple and blue. Spinel is
a very sophisticated and underrated stone with
a historical love affair with India,” he adds.
Vishal participates in a lot of boutique
shows world over – but we don’t see his
work displayed for the Indian audiences
much. We asked him if he believes that his
jewellery doesn’t have a market in India
and he says, “With my slow production and
global commitments, I didn’t have the creative
bandwidth. My pieces found their way into
auctions at Sotheby’s, Phillips and Saffronart
early in the day. I began retailing out of select
boutiques across Europe, America and my
pieces are sold largely by word of mouth. I am
privileged to have a global clientele through
my presence across shows and stores in Europe
and the U.S. I also found patronage in royal
families from the Middle East.” Vishal is now
doing shows in India as well, like the recent
one he did with Saffronart at their gallery in
New Delhi. He has just opened his flagship
store at The Royal Opera House in Mumbai.
“It is such a privilege to be housed in such
an iconic building. Like everything I do, it is
niche and enthralling, I hope.”
High jewellery with rare stones and savoir
faire will always stand the test of time, even
in a tepid economic climate believes Vishal.
“High jewellery in fact becomes more relevant
during market fluctuations, as people may buy
less but will buy quality, as there is a serious
investment and long-term value. Personally
that is what I have noticed with VAK.” Vishal
has an exciting auction season ahead of him
along with design shows in Europe, the U.S.
and the Middle East. “The next one is PAD
Paris. I hope my flagship store in Mumbai will
open doors to a sophisticated Indian clientele
hungry for artisanal jewellery.I also sit on the
committee of the Peabody Essex Museum in
Massachusetts and have been invited to talk
at a couple of museums about my creative
practice.”
Vishal looks for inspiration in buildings
and nature across the world. Older towns
of Europe, palaces and museums across the
world and of course Mumbai, his city, are a
constant source of inspiration. Of course,
Pink Floyd, Salavdor Dali and Jim Morrison’s
book of poems influence his works. What
does the maverick designer do when he is not
designing? “I am a museum and music junkie.
But my mind is always drawing.”
I use minimal
metal to highlight
the boldness of
the gemstones –
they almost float.
A lot of R&D goes
into my work.
I also hire the
best of artisans
and train them
extensively. Often
a piece takes
3-6 months
to make, with
me controlling
every step of the
manufacturing. I
have a zero-error
tolerance
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 105

Show RepoRt REpoRT
13th Edition of IIJS Signature
All Business At iiJs
signAture 2020
Rise in gold prices or geopolitical tensions did not play a spoil sport at IIJS
Signature this year. Though footfall was relatively lower, visitors who came in
were serious buyers reports Indian Jeweller
Sparsh Jewellers
The 13th edition of IIJS Signature and the
7th edition of India Gem & Jewellery
Machinery Expo (IGJME) organised
by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion
Council (GJEPC) gave a head start to the
2020 buying season. The events held from 13-
16 February 2020 at the Bombay Exhibition
Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai, attracted 15,000+
visitors (12,000 of whom were pre-registered
visitors) from over 325 cities and towns pan
India and more than 55 countries globally
to visit 700+ exhibitors across 1,300 booths,
spanning an area of over 45,000 sq. mts.
Several new elements such as the Startup
Zone (Hall 6), which promoted Emerging
Designers & Women Entrepreneurs, and
the Crafts Pavilion (to promote artisans and
craftsmen) were welcomed by the exhibitors
and buyers. GJEPC also concurrently
presented the first-ever Business Knowledge
Forum, The Artisan Awards and Design
Inspirations to provide insight, intelligence
and perspectives to members of the industry.
“IIJS Signature has received a good response
with over 700 exhibitors occupying 1,300
booths and nearly 12,000 pre-registered
visitors,” said GJEPC Chairman Pramod
Kumar Agrawal in his inaugural address.
Agrawal listed out some of the projects
initiated by the GJEPC, with support from the
Ministry of Commerce and the Ministry of
Finance, including the setting up of common
facility centres (CFCs) and design institutes,
as well as the plans for Jewellery Parks, SNZs,
a Gem Bourse and Model Workshops, which
were at various stages of development.
“The focus is on growth with value addition,
as well as schemes that will help the progress
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Sanskriti Jewels
Anil Bharwani Fine Jewellery
of large numbers of MSME enterprises and
upliftment of millions of artisans who form
the backbone of the industry,” he said.
Speaking to the media at the inaugural
function, GJEPC Vice Chairman Colin Shah
also pointed out that the GJEPC had taken
a number of steps to overcome the credit
crunch faced in the last couple of years by
working with banks through a Coordination
Committee and other platforms. “We will
soon be signing an MOU with a leading
public sector bank for use of the MyKYC
industry database which has been developed
and continuously updated by the Council.
Other banks are likely to follow and this will
greatly help in risk mitigation,” Shah said.
The GJEPC Chairman and Vice Chairman
also said that the industry had taken a number
of steps in the face of the recent global tragedy
of the coronavirus outbreak. This included
approaching the government and banks to
relax some of the regulations related to bank
credit, especially for exports to China and
Hong Kong based companies, as well as urging
the industry “to produce with extreme caution
and as per the conditions of the market” so
they are not left with surplus stocks over the
next few months.
Shah said that the green shoots of a recovery
after the slowdown of last year were already
being seen with exports of silver jewellery and
lab grown diamonds registering significant
growth. Expressing the confidence that for
most other verticals, “the worst was over”, he
added that the Council was hopeful that the
situation would improve in the second half of
the current year.
Elaborating on the Mega Shopping Festival,
Agrawal said that the concept had been
presented by the Hon’ble Minister of Finance,
Nirmala Sitharaman as one of the steps to
boost Indian exports in various categories
and promote Make in India merchandise.
“The Festival is being organised on behalf of
the ministry by the ITPO, and the respective
Export Promotion Councils are being
Inaugural lamp lighting ceremony - (L to R) Richa Singh, Pramod Agrawal, Colin
Shah, Sabyasachi Ray and Mansukh Kothari
Raniwala 1881
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Show RepoRt
associated with them. Every Indian mission
across the world is publicising the show to
potential visitors, and we hope that not only
will it provide an immediate boost, but that
it will also grow significantly in the years to
come.”
This time GJEPC had also introduced a
special Crafts Pavilion to showcase India’s
traditional jewellery making crafts, with
the aim of helping to revive, modernise and
eventually market these localised art forms.
There were eye-catching ornaments and gift
items with complex designs and intricate
detailing including handcrafted Temple
Jewellery from Nagercoil in Tamil Nadu, the
Art of Bidri, native to Bidar in Karnataka and
the delicate craftsmanship of Silver Filigree in
Karimnagar district in Telangana.
Also part of the show was the exclusive
Signature Club which included exhibitors
like Kantilal Chhotalal, KGK Jewellery, Tanvir
Kumar & Co. Jewelkraft Creation Pvt. Ltd.
and more. The exhibitors showcased an array
of collections from bridal to modern and
light weight pieces. Hall 6 also had a special
section for women jewellery entrepreneurs on
one side as well as a section for new jewellery
designers on the other, who presented their
exclusive creations to the visitors.
Modi Export House
Karshev Jewellery
Sidelights
The Craft Pavilion
The Craft Pavilion at IIJS Signature
promoted three traditional Indian
jewellery crafts – temple, bidri
and filigree. The aim is to preserve
the knowledge of these crafts for
posterity because right now they
are only being passed down the
generations by word of mouth or
through practice. The authenticity
of these crafts has to be retained,
because their USP is that it is all
100per cent handmade. Already,
people have started using cast
components for temple jewellery,
which is part casting and part
handmade. That is one part of
business reality. One thing very
heartening to note is that all the
three crafts have qualified people
such as graduates and even
chemical engineers, which is a
promising sign which shows that
they are coming back to jewellery
profession.
Design Inspirations
The intellectual property Design Inspirations
from GJEPC, was organised on the last day
of IIJS Signature 2020. World’s renowned
jewellery forecaster Paola De Luca, conducted
a daylong session on the latest trends in
jewellery and consumer behaviour. The
core themes of Design Inspirations 2020
were – Social Culture (The era of volatility),
Sustainable (Being planet sensitive and
conscious), Heritage (Looking deeper into
authenticity) and lastly, Design (Envisioning
the ideals of tomorrow). Other eminent
speakers at Design Inspirations were Ash
Allibhai, International Fashion & Content
Director, ASBO Magazine; Narendra Kumar,
Creative Director, Amazon Fashion; Thomas
Lazzarini, Private Client Personal Shopper
at Farfetch; Shreyas More, Interior Designer,
Green Charcoal Project; Fleur Damman and
Noëlle Viguurs, Co-Founder, Van Gelder
Jewellery; Saikat Mitra, Creative Director,
Van Heusen, VP Design, Aditya Birla Fashion
and Retail; Akash Das, Creative Director at
MeWeStudioX.
Business Knowledge Forum
On the sidelines of IIJS Signature 2020, GJEPC also organised Business
Knowledge Forum in association with Economictimes.com. The forum
had eminent speakers like Raghunath Subramanian, Chairman UI Path,
Animesh Samuel, Co-Founder & Product Head, NLP Bots, Vedanarayanan
Vedantham, SME Business Head, Razorpay, Sowmya Iyer, Founder &
CEO, Dvio Digital, Aditya Bhat, head, Jio Studios, Bollywood actress
Aditi Govitrikar and TV actress Tridha Choudhury. They all spoke on the
emergence and importance of modern day information technology and
tools like Robotics, Artificial Intelligence, Digital Marketing, Importance
of Social media and impact of influencers etc. The common thread from
all the experts was the consumer is changing and hence the face of the
businesses is also changing. Marketers need to change along with time,
with the changing nature of the consumer.
Jewellery Start up Zone
Exhibitors at the Startup Zone section
expressed their gratitude for the
opportunity given to them at a big platform
like IIJS Signature. They were happy that
they got to interact with B2B buyers from
across India, which is something new for
them as they had only experience with end
customers. The platform gave them an idea
about the needs of serious buyers.
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Exhibitors Speak
The footfall was less but the people who came
in were in serious buying mode. Even though the
walkins were lesser than last year, those who came
were quality buyers with good enquiries. Since the
wedding season is ending, buyers were looking at
light weight diamond jewellery for Gudipadwa and
Akshaya Tritiya.
Hardik Shah, BR Designs
Overall the show had low footfall as
compared to last year but those who came
did good business. New leads were fewer
than last year too.
Sumit Kamalia, Uma Ornaments
Not big numbers and international buyers were
lacking. But the buyers who came in were serious.
We got a conversion rate of 80 per cent. Customers
were looking for new designs, something innovative.
People were waiting for 10-15 minutes outside
our booth to look at our designs. Our booths were
jam packed. If you have something new to offer, then people are
willing to look at your deisgns. Out of those who came, 30 per
cent were new businesses.
Sanjay Jain, Manoj Ornaments
The show was pretty decent. We didn’t get too
many enquiries from the North as 14th & 15th of
February were also auspicious days for weddings.
Despite the high gold price, we got some good
enquiries, so that was a positive sign. We got a few
new leads as well.
Amish Kothari, Rosentiques Fine Jewellery
Consumer
preferences
are constantly
evolving and the
IIJS Signature trade
show has helped
the industry by providing the
exhibitors a firsthand chance
to interact with thousands
of buyers from all across the
globe and to keep track of their
dynamic preferences.
Poonam Kothari, Achal Jewels
Footfall was
relatively low
but buyers
who came
in were
serious. No
new business leads
though. We are into top of
the line, bridal jewellery, so
rise in gold prices was not
a dampener.
Deepak Jain, Vijay Gems
and Jewellery
Highlights
• 700+ exhibitors across
1,300 booths, spanning an
area of over 45,000 sq. mts
• 15,000+ visitors (12,000 of
whom were pre-registered
visitors) from over 325 cities
and towns pan India
• A special Crafts Pavilion
showcased India’s
traditional jewellery
making crafts
• Startup Zone section
enabled new exhibitors to
interact with B2B buyers
from across India
• A special section was
carved out for women
jewellery entrepreneurs to
showcase their offerings to
buyers
• Light weight diamond
jewellery did exceptionally
well
• Jadau and heavy pieces
didn’t see too many takers
• IIJS Signature Club had
exhibitors showcasing
elaborate pieces to elegant,
light weight pieces
• Many exhibitors got new
business leads
• Buyers from North India
were at minimum because
14th & 15th of February
clashed with auspicious
wedding days in the North
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 109

Show RepoRt
The Artisan Jewellery Design Awards 2020
Arif Hossain
Legendary British designer Stephen
Webster graced the annual momentous
event recognising and rewarding the
best in jewellery design, The Artisan Jewellery
Design Awards. Artisan Awards epitomises
the highest levels of artistry, innovation and
individuality - elevating jewellery designers to
their rightful status of artistes.
The purpose of The Artisan Awards is to
inspire India’s jewellery designers to push their
design boundaries and demonstrate their skill
by showcasing world-class pieces! The theme
for this year’s The Artisan Jewellery Design
Awards 2020 powered by GIA (Gemological
Institute of America) was Architectural Gems
under which there were different categories
namely Art-Deco, Neo Futurism and Islamic
Arabesque. There was a special category for
the Best Product Inventory for IIJS Signature
2020 exhibitors. The winner for the Art-
Deco category was Harjas Kaur; the winner
for Neo futurism was Namrata Bhardwaj; and
the winner for Islamic Arabesque category
was Koushik Mondal. The Awards were given
away by Stephen Webster, Pramod Kumar
Agrawal (Chairman, GJEPC), Colin Shah
(Vice Chairman, GJEPC), and Nirupa Bhatt
(MD - GIA, India & Middle East).
The theme of the awards was Architectural
Gems encompassing Art Deco, Neo-Futurism
& Islamic Arabesque. Back in the day, Art
Deco represented luxury, glamour, exuberance
and faith in social and technological progress.
The concept of Art Deco was not just a single
style, but a pastiche of different and sometimes
contradictory ones. Neo-futurism is an early-
21st century architectural style, which evolved
out of high-tech architecture. It is a concept
that incorporates urban design that is in touch
with human emotions, ethical values and
sustainability. The Arabesque developed out of
early traditions of plant-based scroll ornament
in the cultures taken over by the early Islamic
conquests. It is often used to symbolise the
transcendent, indivisible and the infinity in
nature.
Harjas Kaur-Art Deco
Harjas Kaur
Koushik Mondal
Koushik Mondal-Islamic Arabesque
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Namrata Bhardwaj-Neo Futurism
Artisan Awards 2020
Sr. No Designer Name Manufacturer Position
Category- ART DECO
1 Harjas Kaur A’Star Jewellery Winner
2 Juhee Bolakhe Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers Finalist
3 Monu Jain Gupta Monu Jain Gupta Second Runner Up
4 Saurabh Jhaveri Tiara Silver Pvt. Ltd. Finalist
5 Budoor Albudoor La Marquise Diamonds,Dubai Finalist
6 Shruti Sharma KP Sanghvi Finalist
7 Arif Hossain A’Star Jewellery First Runner Up
8 Ashishkumar Doshi Oopal Diamonds Finalist
9 Hema Harika Chandana Imaginarium (India) Pvt. Ltd. Finalist
Category- NEO FUTURISM
1 Juhee Bolakhe Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers Finalist
2 Namrata Bhardwaj A’Star Jewellery Winner
3 Anant Jain Mukti Gold Finalist
4 Saayli Dhongade Diagold Creation Pvt. Ltd. Finalist
5 Ashishkumar Doshi Oopal Diamonds Finalist
6 Kosha Shah Anand Shah First Runner Up
7 Jinal Patel Reliance Jewels Second Runner Up
8 Mitali Kikani H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery Finalist
9 Archangel Caszo Reliance Jewels Finalist
Category- ISLAMIC ARABESQUE
1 Pratiksha Gandle Reliance Jewels Finalist
2 Saloni Kaushik Titan Company Limited Finalist
3 Sonali Sheth Sphere Second Runner Up
4 Ketki Ambardekar Jewel Goldi First Runner Up
5 Koushik Mondal Tanvir Kumar & Co. Pvt. Ltd. Winner
6 Tanaya Agarwal Imaginarium India Pvt. Ltd. Finalist
7 Jaydeb Dolui Tribhuvandas Bhimji Zaveri Finalist
8 Bhagyashree Vaidya Tanvirkumar & Company Finalist
9 Rakesh Bakuly Kiran Gems Pvt. Ltd. Finalist
Best Product Inventory at Signature IIJS 2020
Category
Couture Cuffs
Cocktail Rings
Silver Jewellery
Daily Wear Diamond Jewellery
Coloured Gemstone Jewellery
Couture Diamond Jewellery
Gold Jewellery
Kundan Meena Jewellery
Winner
Anand Shah Jewels
Anand Shah Jewels
Ira Jewels
Manak Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.
Sanskriti Jewels
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas
Shakti Jewellers Pvt. Ltd.
Sparsh Jewellers
Ketki Ambardekar
Jinal Patel
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 111

Special FocuS
Store Interiors at Narain Niwas
SURABHI Fine Crafted Jewels
Where
heritage Meets
Modernity
Surabhi Kasliwal Godha
Surabhi Kasliwal Godha has a unique legacy and
an illustrious lineage, which begins with Munshi
Dhannalal Kasliwal ‘Fauzdar’, the man who gave the
city its globally renowned title, ‘Pink City’
112 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
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SURABHI Fine Crafted Jewels is a brand
known for its awe-inspiring designs
with a deep sense of respect for the art
and dedication that goes into crafting each
masterpiece.
The brand was established by Surabhi
Kasliwal Godha in 2011, along with a
manufacturing and wholesale arm, ‘Vidita
Jewels’. From manufacturing to wholesale
and retail sales, exports and online sales, each
aspect of this family-run business reflects the
values and attributes held dear by the founderdesigner.
Contemporary, compelling and
competitive
Surabhi’s designs are traditional and
contemporary at the same time. The brand’s
flagship store, located at the premiere heritage
hotel of Jaipur, the majestic Narain Niwas
Palace, has a vast assortment of designer
masterpieces and collections including timeless
Royal entrance of the Lal Haveli
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 113

Special FocuS
Flagship Store at Narain Niwas Palace, Jaipur
jadau jewellery that displays the elegance of
the regal Rajputana; dazzling diamond and
precious coloured-stone accessories crafted for
the modern day diva; beaded strings and jewels
in contemporary, daily wear designs; Vintage
Victorian and Edwardian pieces for those who
prefer antiques; a unique jewellery collection
for children; stylish jewels and accessories for
men and a host of silver gifts and collectables.
The founder extraordinaire
Surabhi is an alumna of the renowned
Jewellery Design and Technology Institute
with over 15 years of design experience.
She has previously worked with numerous
international jewellery brands and therefore
imbues each piece with her own unique sense
of aesthetics as well as individualising custom
pieces for her clients with a fine reflection of
the wearer’s personality and style.
The talented designer ensures that ‘Every
jewel in your collection should be as special
as YOU.’ Customizing trousseau wedding
collections and reinventing heirloom pieces
in modern day avatars for a new and more
contemporary look are her areas of expertise.
Currently, the designer is all set to create
history by engaging in the restoration of her
family heritage. The historic Lal Haveli, in
Johri Bazaar (Jaipur’s oldest jewellery market)
was acquired in the year 1871 by ‘Fauzdar’
Munshi Dhannalal Kasliwal from the Maharaja
of Jaipur. It is said that ‘Fauzdar’ Dhannalal
Kasliwal was why Jaipur came to be known as
the Pink City.
Just before the royal visit of the Prince
Edward (then, the Prince of Wales who
later went on to become King Edward VII)
to Jaipur, Munshi Dhannalal Kasliwal had
ordered all houses in the city to be painted
pink. Today, visitors from all over the world
flock to get a glimpse of the unique culture of
this ‘Pink City.’
It is in this historic ‘Lal Haveli’ that
SURABHI Fine Crafted Jewels will open
its second and premium store, in a luxury
boutique hotel.
It was ‘Fauzdar’ Munshi Dhannalal ji’s
descendants Sudhanshu Kasliwal and his wife
Ritu Kasliwal love for their ancestral home
that made them slowly acquire shares of the
Haveli from all his cousins. After the tenants
vacated, the restoration process began so that
the Haveli doesn’t go to shambles. The duo
wanted to give the Haveli back it’s old world
charm, status & lineage. Surabhi was fully
involved in the creative restoration process of
their ancestral property as well with her full
heart and soul. The entire process took around
10 years. The Johri Jaipur @ The Lal Haveli is
a tribute to the visionary founder of the family
and a beautiful new beginning for SURABHI
Fine Crafted Jewels.
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Preview of the new showroom at Lal Haveli presided by His Highness Padmanabh Singh Maharaja of Jaipur who was presented a
beautiful cufflink designed by Surabhi. (L-R) Surabhi Kasliwal Godha, Maharaja Padmanabh Singh, Sudhanshu Kasliwal, Ritu Kasliwal,
Siddharth Kasliwal of Gem Palace and Hemant Godha
Munshi Dhannalal Kasliwal ‘Fauzdar’
Dream project: Restoration of Lal
Haveli
“The Lal Haveli is our ancestral home. It’s
owned by my father Sudhanshu Kasliwal. It
is around 200 years old. And was the tallest
heritage building in the walled city of Jaipur,”
Surabhi informs. It has taken almost ten long
years to restore it to its current state.
Over the century, it was occupied by
different tenants and therefore needed a lot of
work. They have used original craftsmanship
like lime, aaraish, etc. for the restoration, so
as to give the Haveli its original look. They
had to hire seasoned karigars who understood
what was wanted of them and implemented
the procedures with great precision. After
rounds of rigorous work, today the Haveli
is restored to its original grandeur and has
been converted into a plush boutique hotel,
The Johri @ The Lal Haveli where Surabhi’s
exclusive jewellery boutique is coming up.
The idea behind restoring The Lal Haveli
was to bring back the old charm it had when
it was bought over by her Great Great Grand
Father Shri Dhanna Lal ji Kasliwal Saheb.
This second store is created in an old classic
Rajputana royal architectural style. It is replete
with intricate jaali work, beautiful chandeliers,
the colour scheme is exuberant. Its interiors
complement the Haveli and promises to be a
visual treat to everyone who visits the luxury
boutique hotel.
The store will house only high end and
exclusive jewellery pieces for men and women
with a stunning range of gold, diamonds and
real gemstones artefacts. The store opens
on March 29, which happens to be her
Grandfather Shri Ram Chandra ji Kasliwal
Saheb’s birthday.
Connoisseurs of finesse
All outlets of SURABHI Fine Crafted Jewels
cater to the best connoisseurs and buyers from
all over the world, who know that it is here
that they will get the masterpieces of their
dreams. They all know that their search for
excellence ends here. All of their clients have
a classy design sense. They prefer statement
pieces, a variety of wearable jewellery. The
bridal jewellery which the talented designer
displays is totally customised exactly in sync
with clients taste and outfit.
Tracing the transition
In terms of aesthetics, design and price
range, the demands of the market surely
have a remarkable transition. The jewellery
preference has evolved a lot in the last five
years. Every client wants a unique piece and
the challenge for the artisan is indeed multipronged.
“We have to provide pieces, which
are both contemporary, wearable and strike a
balance between tradition and high fashion
and is at the same time subtle and striking.
Every passing day, it becomes more and more
challenging and for a passionate designer this
challenge offers immense work satisfaction and
joy of creativity,” beams Surabhi. Government
policies and economic pressures sometimes
can become repressive, so as a design house
one has to account for such pressures too.
All in all, one has to strike the right balance
between high creativity and sound business
sense.
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 115

IJ PromotIon
Limelight Lab-Grown Diamonds
Pooja Sheth of LimeLight
DiamonDS receiveS et
BuSineSS icon awarD
Pooja Sheth aspires to create a luxury niche brand in the
world of lab-grown CVD diamonds in India
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Limelight Diamonds, India’s first luxury
brand offering handcrafted lab-grown
CVD diamond jewellery is pleased
to announce that Pooja Sheth, Founder
& Managing Director was felicitated as
Technology Leader for Sustainable Diamond
Creation at ET Business Icon award on 23rd
January 2020. ET Business Icons, an initiative
by OMS - a Times group company identifies
the contribution of the country’s most
powerful enterprises in their respective fields.
The forte of Limelight Diamonds lies in
offering the most exquisite and carefully
handcrafted diamond jewellery. Their forte
lies in crafting impeccable Type IIa diamonds,
whose lustre is analogous to that of the
legendary Koh-i-Noor. Headquartered in
Mumbai, they are a limited company backed
by one of the world’s largest CVD diamond
labs based in Surat.
Pooja Sheth aspires to create a luxury niche
in the world for lab-grown CVD diamonds
from India. Hailing from an investment banking
background, Pooja has amassed her knowledge
from leading global education schools such as
the London School of Economics and Harvard
With Limelight
Diamonds, we are
making a socially
responsible and
sustainably conscious
effort towards a
brighter future for
everyone in the real
sense by creating an
aesthetic that makes
every design stand out
and with technology
that greatly reduces
the environmental
impact - Pooja Sheth
Business School, USA. Having previously
worked for Barclays Capital in London, she
now heads the strategy and operations for
Limelight Handcrafted Diamonds. Her sound
understanding of management coupled with
a global perspective sets her apart as the newage
leader.
Pooja is a strong advocate of sustainable and
conscious living. With Limelight Diamonds,
she wants to maintain the legacy, superior
quality and yet build the category on the
pillars of responsibility and sustainability.
These diamonds are grown in a lab and not
found in mines, hence they are conflictfree
and sustainable, saving water and land
extraction. The brand has been at the forefront
of showcasing lab-grown CVD diamondstudded
jewellery within the responsible
luxury niche in India and world over. With the
laboratories based in Surat, the Group annually
produces large volumes of lab-produced rough
diamonds, unmatched in the world.
On receiving this award, Pooja Sheth
said,“We at Limelight Diamonds are very
fortunate to be awarded this prestigious
title by ET Business and will forever strive
to deliver quality and an opportunity for
conscious consumers to make a responsible
choice. With Limelight Diamonds, we are
making a socially responsible and sustainably
conscious effort towards a brighter future
for everyone in the real sense by creating an
aesthetic that makes every design stand out
and with technology that greatly reduces the
environmental impact.”
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 117

IJ PromotIon
In life we experience many defining
moments that can jolt us, change us or
elevate us. However, what is important
is how one can learn from these moments.
Jaipur-based designer, Sunayana Jain’s story is
all about believing in these defining moments
and following one’s heart.
Having spent over two decades in the
industry Sunayana says, “Initially, I didn’t
get much support from my family. I had
to borrow money to pay for my jewellery
designing course. But when I look at the
way my jewellery label ‘Adore’ is appreciated
by jewellery aficionados, I feel grateful to
the almighty and every defining moment
that guided me throughout my journey. The
experiences of those early days have made me
who I am, a confident woman with deep faith
in myself and blessings of the Lord. My biggest
lesson so far has been to unlearn.”
Sunayana Jain - Adore Jewels
A WomAn of
SubStAnce
With a unique approach to business and an
ever-positive attitude, Sunayana Jain of Adore
Jewels creates beautiful jewels that are truly
one-of-a-kind
Belief in Herself
Jain’s journey in the industry was all about
believing in herself and her skills. She has
gradually worked her way up in the industry.
It wasn’t easy as a female designer to carve her
own niche in an overly competitive jewellery
market in Jaipur. But she persisted and gained
experience while she was working as a
designer, closely with the craftsmen of Jaipur
before launching her own label ‘Adore.’
“Believe in yourself. Do not give up your
vision. After learning from your mistakes;
you will be recognised for the unique work
that you do as a designer. It is important to
remember that no effort is wasted. When
you feel demotivated, relive your childhood,
feel free and don’t restrict yourself with
boundaries,” says Sunayana.
Soulful Jewels
The jewellery industry is filled with designers
but there are only a few like Sunayana Jain
whose designs are beyond time and trends.
Jain’s designs are not only high on aesthetics
and craftsmanship but they also have a soul.
Her designs are indeed mesmerising. Her
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Old is Gold
She is also the master of remodelling or
redesigning old silver jewellery into something
sparkling. When it comes to heirloom silver
jewellery, Sunayana can repurpose it into
something new and timeless. “I believe old
is forever gold. No piece of work is useless.
There is a place for everything and you can
create a masterpiece from some of the most
basic things,” says Jain. She feels her creations
are for a woman who desires power and
possesses a sense of individuality.
Sunayana Jain has made a mark in the
industry with sheer talent and hard work, her
persistence has paid off and today she is one
of the most sought after jewellery designers.
“Mistakes should be forgiven. Explore and
find your own voice. Know that there is no
one way to go about anything. I have always
believed that mistakes can be turned into
happy accidents,” she concludes.
jewellery and its fame have made a mark in
the industry. She has held many shows in the
U.S., London and Paris.
Sunayana creates magic using silver, precious
and semi-precious gemstones and a lot of other
alternative materials. Each of her design has a
subject and a message. Each piece is created
using a fine blend of historical or mythological
elements, geometrical or architectural patterns
– they are not just designs that are ready to
make a statement but they tell a story. As she
is based in Jaipur, she incorporates the talents
of master craftsmen of the city who bring
her vision into reality. Each of her bespoke
pieces is meticulously handcrafted under her
supervision.
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 119

Personality
Ellen Joncheere, HRD Antwerp
‘My aiM is to get HRD
antweRp futuRe ReaDy’
To hold the reins of Europe’s leading authority in diamond grading is
no mean feat, accomplishing this daunting task is Ellen Joncheere, the
newly appointed CEO of HRD Antwerp. A multi-talented woman who
has gained immense experience in heading varied organizations, she
shares her future plans with Diamond World
120 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
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Q: As the newly appointed CEO, what will
your important roles and responsibilities
at HRD Antwerp be?
A: First and foremost, I believe HRD Antwerp
brought me on board to help regain its focus,
to make sure all its branches, departments
and individuals share a common sense of
purpose and are all pulling in the same
direction. One of my key roles will therefore
be to clearly remind our staff of the mission
of HRD Antwerp and the important role it
plays as a leading diamond grading laboratory:
conducting high-level diamond research and
translating that research into services. This is a
broad definition of the role I will play. On a
more specific level, I believe it is my mandate
to create an organisational culture that never
loses sight of the fundamentals: providing
reliable, consistent and quality service, and
communicating effectively with existing and
potential clients.
To be even more specific: I intend to make
sure that HRD Antwerp achieves complete
uniformity when it comes to diamond
grading. Clients must have total certainty that
when HRD grades a diamond, whether it is in
Antwerp, Istanbul or Mumbai, the result will
be the same. Again, it is about taking care of
the fundamentals.
HRD has already built a tremendous brand
and acquired a wealth of knowledge. It is
already respected in the industry. If we are not
performing as we should, that can only mean
we have taken our collective eye off the ball.
I see it as my job to sharpen our focus again.
Q: You’ve joined HRD at a tricky time, the
company itself is going through many
changes – amidst a lot of tasks at hand,
what tops your priority at the moment?
A: My first task will be to streamline our
operations as a whole, to create functional
stability, but this objective is in service of my
top priority, which is to grow HRD Antwerp.
When an organisation goes through changes
such as the ones we have been through,
from management turnover to takeover
negotiations, it is difficult to grow. There is
too much uncertainty. That is why I intend
to focus on our mission, move forward and
regain HRD Antwerp’s market share.
To achieve growth, we also need to adapt the
organisation to the changing environment.
It has been a long time since Antwerp was
the leading polished-diamond trading center.
This is not to suggest that Antwerp no longer
plays a leading role, but rather to recognise
that the polished trade has largely shifted
to India, where HRD has a lab. We need to
grow our client base where the clients are
located, and generate greater awareness of
the services we provide. Jewellery grading is
an excellent example of an opportunity for
growth. Demand for this service is increasing
along with the growing market for heirloom
The diamond industry sinks or swims
according to consumer demand. If consumers
are confused, they might become frustrated
and turn away from our product altogether.
HRD Antwerp can and should play a more
prominent role in educating consumers about
our industry and its product.
and previously-owned jewellery. We should be
marketing this service more effectively.
Another priority is to reposition the HRD
Antwerp brand. As I said, it already has strong
name recognition which could be capitalised
on more effectively. This takes outreach and
smart marketing. Our educational courses
can play a role here as well – I don’t mean
training more graders, but engaging with
jewellers and deepening their knowledge of
diamonds so they can raise their sales game.
When promoted and used effectively, HRD
Antwerp’s educational offering can serve as
a point of entry for new customers and help
generate further growth.
Q: The diamond industry at large is also
going through a rough patch – how
important do you think is the role of a
grading and an educational institute like
HRD at this challenging time?
A: The rough patch the industry is going
through right now does not have a much to
do with grading labs, but the labs do have a
critical role to play in keeping the industry upto-date
and defended against new challenges
that can undermine consumer confidence.
The diamond grading labs are continually
engaged in a cat and mouse game with labgrown
diamond producers. They seek to
develop new ways to evade detection, and
the labs must track their every move and
respond with new detection technology. This
is unfortunate, but is what we are dealing
with. It is one thing if the LGD producers
and retailers promote and sell an alternative to
natural diamonds and compete fairly. But it is
another thing entirely if undisclosed mixing
of natural and synthetic diamonds is done in
order to deceive customers and gain an unfair
advantage. This practice still happens much
more often than one would think. Diamond
grading and detection still have a very
important role to play here.
It has also become imperative that grading
and education combine forces to eliminate
confusion among consumers. People in the
industry might know all about the differences
between the different products, but that does
not mean the consumers do as well. As we
have seen with the Diamond Terminology
Guideline developed by eight leading diamond
organisations, the US FTC guidelines and their
warnings to synthetics retailers about false
labeling, and the recent adoption of European
custom codes for synthetic diamonds,just to
name a few, lab-grown diamonds not only
need to be identified properly, but also named
properly. That is step one. Secondly, consumers
also need to be clearly informed about the
value propositions of the different products,
because there is a great deal of disinformation
out there.
I have given you a long answer. The short
answer is that the diamond industry sinks
or swims according to consumer demand. If
consumers are confused, they might become
frustrated and turn away from our product
altogether. HRD Antwerp can and should play
a more prominent role in educating consumers
about our industry and its product. We might
compete with other organisations for our
share of the pie, but if that pie is shrinking,
everyone loses out.
Q: This is also a completely new industry
for you – do you think an outsider’s
perspective will help bring in more clarity
and focus to the business?
A: My belief is that in most industries we
should step away from always hiring people
coming from the same business, new views,
other experiences bring innovation into the
company.
Q: What did you find particularly
interesting and exciting about this role?
A: As I used to work in very disruptive
environments, I see a challenge for the
diamond industry from lab grown diamonds, a
shift from Antwerp to other countries and the
need for an adapted organisational structure,
another marketing approach etc. In a nutshell
a turnaround is necessary and that is where my
experience lies.
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 121

Special RepoRt RepoRT
Budget Watch
Budget 2020:
Blah at Best!
The Gems and Jewellery industry was hopeful, expecting a few policy level
changes, especially a reduction in import duty on both gold and diamonds.
However, the Finance Ministry gave nothing to jewellers to keep them
buoyant, instead a 0.5 per cent import duty has been imposed on coloured
stones, which was earlier imported tax free
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JEWELLER

Countless meetings have been held and
deliberations have been made, regarding
ease of doing business in the gems and
jewellery industry. The GJEPC has been
in talks with the Ministry of Commerce
& Industry for an overhaul of policies
to facilitate better exports and to ensure
more customers walk into the stores to buy
jewellery domestically. However, on February
1, when Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman
made announcements one after the other, the
glimmer of hope amidst stakeholders faded.
Not much was announced for the betterment
of this sector that employs 4.64 million and
contributes 7 per cent to the country’s GDP.
With a vision of uplifting the agricultural
sector and doubling farmers’ income, FM said
that an agricultural credit target of Rs 15 lakh
crores would be set by 2021. These farming
reforms will have a positive impact on the
gems and jewellery industry, as an income
growth amidst farmers will in turn lead them
to invest in more gold.
She also announced that smaller exporters
will have higher export credits with a
reduction in premium as well as facilitating
digital refund of duties for exporters. A sum
of Rs 23,700 crores is to be allocated for
the promotion of Ministry of Commerce &
Industry by 2021. In her speech, Sitharaman
also said that foundations would be laid to
make every district an export hub and five
new smart cities would be developed to
rehabilitate the manufacturing prowess of this
country.
Turnover threshold on audit has been raised
to Rs 5 crore from Rs 1 crore in order to
reduce burden on SMSEs. An international
bullion exchange at IFSC in GIFT City,
which will lead to better price discovery of
gold, will create more jobs and enhance India’s
position in such market. “With the approval
of the regulator, GIFT City would set up an
International Bullion Exchange(s) in GIFT-
IFSC as an additional option for trade by
global market participants,” said Sitharaman.
Budget 2020 reversed the dividend
distribution tax (DDT) imposed on dividends
issued by companies. Dividend income will
now be taxed only in the hands of investors as
per the tax rate applicable to their income. So
far, companies were required to pay DDT at 15
per cent, though including surcharge and cess
put the effective rate at 20.56 percent. Foreign
companies received no credit for DDT paid
by their Indian subsidiaries. Abolishment of
DDT will enable more foreign investors to
come to India as they can claim a credit of
the taxes paid on dividend in their respective
countries.
Personal tax was simplified for the individual
tax payer. Reduced tax slab for individual tax
payer could have a positive impact on the
G&J industry as consumers will have more
disposable income to buy jewellery.
FM also announced NIRVIK (Niryat Rin
Vikas Yojana) scheme to provide enhanced
insurance cover and reduce premium for small
exporters.“To achieve higher export credit
disbursement, a new scheme NIRVIK is being
launched which provides for high insurance
cover, reduction in premium for small
exporters and simplified procedures for claim
settlements,” she said while presenting Budget
2020-21. Under the scheme, also called the
Export Credit Insurance Scheme (ECIS), the
insurance could cover up to 90 per cent of the
principal and interest.
While many positive changes were
announced for individual tax payers, farmers
and small and mid-scale business owners,
the gemstone industry, especially in Jaipur
was not happy about the impose of a 0.5 per
cent import duty on uncut coloured stones.
This move would make colour stone studded
jewellery dearer where the consumers will
have to shell out more money for jewellery
studded with rubies, emeralds, sapphires and
all kinds of coloured gemstones.
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 123

Special RepoRt
Experts Speak
This rise in
import duty of
rough coloured
gemstones has
the potential to
disrupt the exports
of gemstones
from Rajasthan, the hub of coloured
gemstones processing, which
employs around 4 lakh workers. We
earnestly request the Government
to roll back proposed import duty on
these rough coloured gemstones
in the interest of gemstone exports
from India. The industry welcomes
reduction of import duty on platinum
from 12.5 per cent to now proposed
7.5 per cent. However, we believe
the same should have been made
as a standard import duty for other
precious metals like gold and silver.
We also believe that the NIRVIK
Scheme would result in the increase
of the export credit disbursement to
the gems and jewellery sector. Also,
we understand that the government
has now equated the gold bullion
sector under single import duty
regime by increasing the import duty
on gold coins from 10 per cent to
12.5 per cent. Our demand was to
decrease the import duty on bullion
to 4 percent from 12.5 per cent
Pramod Kumar Agrawal,
Chairman, GJEPC
We had really
expected that
the government
would hear our
concerns about
customs duty
and act on it. But
nothing has been implemented
and there was nothing positive for
the gems and jewellery industry
as such. It’s disappointing
Colin Shah, Vice Chairman, GJEPC
This industry is still dominated by small retailers
and family owned set ups which don’t fall under the
corporate category. The likes of Tanishq and Malabar
forms one per cent of this industry. So there are no
tax reforms for small players. No policy changes have
been announced to boost our exports as well
Shreyansh Kapoor, Kashi Jewellers
Customs duty on rough coloured gemstones, rough
CZ and rough synthetic gems has been imposed at
the rate of 0.5 per cent. This is very disappointing
and will affect the trade of colour gemstones a
lot. This is a trade wholly exportable and levying
any duty will increase cost of the product and in
the international market our products will become
expensive. The gem stone trade which is already
feeling the pinch of global recession will be hit largely
Sanjay Kala, President, Jewellers Association, Jaipur
Budget is favourable for tax payers. More money in their hands would mean that
more money will come into our system. However, we were expecting a cut on
customs duty. Just like they have given relief to the individual tax payers, if the
government focuses on relieving businesses as well, then there will be ease of doing
business and we wouldn’t have to be constantly worried about the bottlenecks. The
announcement of gold spot exchange is a positive move
Rajesh Kalyanaraman, Kalyan Jewellers
124 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

This is the first budget of the decade that has
no announcements for the gems and jewellery
sector and that is a big disappointment. The
announcement of the bullion exchange in GIFT city
seems interesting but further details are awaited.
The budget seems to be a very strategic and long
term one but no cognisance has been taken of
problems on the ground. The changes in income
tax slabs come with riders and will eventually make tax filing more
complicated for the common man. Every individual will now require
an accountant to file taxes. The only silver lining is the SOPs for the
farming sector, if that has a positive impact then consumption of gold
will increase, however, we need to see the fine print of the budget to
accurately judge its impact
Saurabh Gadgil, Chairman & MD, PNG Jewellers
Nothing
has been
implemented on
the duty front.
We expected
the government
to at least
reduce duty to
10 per cent from 12.5 per cent. But
looks like we have to continue our
efforts in presenting our concerns
to the ministry. If the duty remains
at the same level, smuggling will be
on the rise. People may start going
abroad to buy jewellery and this
will in turn affect employment in
our industry
Anantha Padmanabhan,
Chairman, GJC
The budget presented for 2020 has listed some
interesting initiatives. Firstly, bringing down the
direct tax rates is likely to positively impact people’s
consumption patterns. This is a good thing for the
gems and jewellery industry. Also, the boost that
the government intends to give to MSMEs could
tremendously encourage development in rural areas,
which in turn will encourage growth
Jignesh Mehta, Founder & MD, Divine Solitaires
This budget has been made keeping all levels
of the society in mind. Major boosts have been
provided to farming, infra, health and education
sectors, which will increase public spending
and result in a boost to the economy. Tax
payers’ charter is a major step towards ending
harassment. New personal tax regime will result
in huge savings. Amnesty for ending pending
litigations is also a major step. International bullion exchange will
help in greater transparency in domestic gold recycling
Vaibhav Saraf, Director, Aisshpra Gems and Jewels
The focus on logistics through the development of 9000 km of economic corridors is a welcome
move. It will encourage economic transformation and seek to improve connectivity that is much
needed for the growing economy. We look forward to the National Logistics Policy which will
clarify the roles of the Union Government, State Governments and key regulators. We are keen
to know about the e-logistics market as mentioned by FM. It will be interesting to see the thrust
on agri-warehousing and the proposal of running Self Help Groups (SHG) in the villages to reduce
logistics costs. We are hoping that the local economy will revive through the SHG
Rajesh Neelakanta, ED & CEO, BVC Logistics
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 125

ExpErt column
Aftab Bandukwala
Founder, Principal
Architect, V-Design
Architectural
Solutions Pvt Ltd
DESIGN DIRECTIVE
The jewellery sTore chronicles pArT 3
Retail is Detail
In this column, Aftab takes us through a gripping tale of one
of his recent projects, focusing on the details of planning and
discussion between the structural designer and his team
hello again! Time to continue the next
part of the chronicles.
In the first two parts of this chronicle,
I shared the process from identifying the
location to defining the layout, from vetting
requirements to signing off on the concept
for the structure holistic to the overall design
theme for the interiors.
While the demolition of the old structure
was underway we used the time to develop the
detailed designs, first for the structure so that
we would be ready with what we call ‘good
for tendering’ drawings that we can issue to
the structural design team who detail the
RCC and steel of the structure. This process
is also very intense. There is much back and
forth between the structural designer and our
team to ensure that we have a sound structure
which in completely in sync with our design,
both complementing each other to achieve
the common aesthetic goal. We also work
aggressively to ensure a light design so that
there are no unnecessarily bulky beams and
columns, for aesthetics and technicalities such
as services as well as cost of construction.
In due course, the structural design is
signed off by us and we tweak our drawings
to accommodate any changes that may be
required. This done, we are ready to issue the
‘good for tendering’ docket of drawings and
specifications along with a Bill of Quantities
(BoQ) which is an itemised document of all
the work along with the anticipated quantities
leaving the rates to be filled by the contending
contractor. This docket is then released to the
shortlisted contractors from our database and
the client’s reference so that they may bid for
the work.
Typically, a contending contractor would
visit the location to get an idea of ground
realities. They would then need to meet
our team for clarifications and a few days
are allowed for this process once the tender
docket had been issued. After this, on a
predetermined date the bidders submit their
offers. We go through these and call the
The evaluation we
put together for the
client is by way of a
comparative analysis of
individual item rates of
the entire bid as well as
an understanding of the
lowest to highest bidder
contractors for clarifications or guidance in
case we feel that there is something amiss.
Having given the contractors an opportunity
to correct or re-evaluate their submission, we
receive these offers and start the process of
evaluation. The evaluation we put together for
the client is by way of a comparative analysis
of individual item rates of the entire bid as
well as an understanding of the lowest to
highest bidder.
The bidders are then invited for a
negotiation to give them an opportunity to
offer a more competitive bid. From these
offers, the client along with us decides on
two to three teams with whom to hold a
final round of negotiations. At the end of this
process a winning bid is identified and the
contract awarded after finalising terms, both
commercial and technical.
In this duration, the demolition of the old
structure is complete and the site is cleared,
ready to break ground for the new structure.
A date is fixed at the time of award of the
contract allowing reasonable time for the
contractor to mobilise their manpower and
other resources to site. The muhurat ceremony
is held and the contractor starts work on site!
In the next part of these chronicles we
will delve into the construction process and
the work set out for our team at V-Design
Architectural Solutions Pvt Ltd the onward.
126 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Guest column
Branding
The Power of SToryTelling
Powerful brands have powerful stories behind them,
though the reverse may not always be true.
Anil Prabhakar talks about the power of storytelling and
making its magic work for brand building
Stories appeal
to the emotional
side of the brain.
Facts, on the other
hand appeal to
the rational side.
Both are important.
Storytelling with
numbers has
therefore assumed
great significance
during the last few
years
All of us have grown up listening to
stories since childhood. We have heard
stories from our grandparents, parents,
teachers as well as friends.
As we grow up, we begin to tell stories to
our friends, nephews and our children. All of
us remember the stories such as the hare and
the tortoise, the monkeys and the capseller that
we heard during our school days. However,
very few of us remember the Pythagoras
theorem or the Archimedes principle that we
had learnt by heart during our childhood.
Stories appeal to the emotional side of the
brain. Facts, on the other hand appeal to the
rational side. Both are important. Storytelling
with numbers has therefore assumed great
significance during the last few years.
Successful financial analysts understand
that if a company has a story, it does better.
Aswath Damodaran, author, professor at New
York University and an expert on valuation
has written a book, ‘Narrative and Numbers’
in which he states the importance of a story.
According to him in the corporate sector,
there are number crunchers and there are
story tellers. While numbers may be forgotten,
the story is remembered.
Jeff Bezos of Amazon is a great story teller.
Investors and stock markets love stories. None
of the unicorns such as Zomato, Uber or Tesla
have made money. However, investors have
believed in their stories. They hope that one
day the start-ups will make money. In the
jewellery industry online brands like Melorra,
CaratLane, BlueStone have successfully sold
their stories to raise funds.
In the branding perspective, every strong
brand has a powerful story. Every story
however, does not become a strong brand.
When you are launching a brand in an
existing category, you need to do market
research and need data and numbers. You
then need to come up with a story that will
differentiate your brand. But when you create
a demand by launching a brand in a new
category you need a compelling story and
then the data.
Tanishq has been successful due to its
stories. They call it New Tales of Tradition.
Today, consumers are bombarded with
numerous messages through multiple screens
(TV, mobile, laptops, tablets etc.) and it’s
a challenge for marketers to cut through
the clutter and build an emotional connect
with consumers. Storytelling is an age-old
technique to build an emotional connect with
consumers and pull at their wallet, by pulling
at their heart strings.
The Tata Group recently analysed TVCs
using the Nielsen neuroscience approach –
this technique captures the non-conscious
responses of consumers measured through
medical-grade EEG (electroencephalogram)
system consisting of 32 sensors that track
neurological activity.
TVCs that used storytelling approach had
a 20 per cent greater brand cut through as
compared to TVCs without a storytelling
narrative. Storytelling TVCs also had a
significantly higher emotional connect, than
non-storytelling TVCs, resulting in a higher
positive disposition and motivation towards
the brand and its message were five times
more believable.
INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 127

Q & A
Rajesh Neelakanta, ED &CEO, BVC Logistics
FAQs from BVC Logistics
NuaNces of
logistics for
precious goods
Your precious goods need a safe and secure
way of transportation. Though we seek
the help of a logistics company, we are not
thorough about the minor details that make up
a transaction. Rajesh Neelakanta, ED &CEO,
BVC Logistics answers queries regarding
payment, insurance, paperwork and more…
The nature of
cargo being
precious and
valuable, it is
best to use
air transport,
wherever feasible.
This ensures a
swift and safe
movement
avoiding the
travails of road
transportation
pitfalls like traffic
jams, vehicle
breakdown, civil
disturbances,
physical attacks
etc
Q: What kind of boxes and packing
materials are used for precious cargo?
A: For safe and secure transportation of
precious cargo, primary packing is best done
in metal boxes, at the shipper’s end. At the
intermediary end, over-boxing of these
individual customer metal boxes should
be ideally done again in metal boxes. This
unitisation of cargo for carriage helps in
secure transportation.
Q: Who is a contract partner?
A: Any contract will have at least two parties
as signatories to the agreement / contract.
Both the parties are referred to as Contract
Partners.
Q: What is the most suitable mode of
transport for precious goods?
A: The nature of cargo being precious
and valuable, it is best to use air transport,
wherever feasible. This ensures a swift and
safe movement avoiding the travails of road
transportation pitfalls like traffic jams, vehicle
breakdown, civil disturbances, physical attacks
etc.
Q: What is LCL & FCL?
A: LCL is an acronym for Less than
Container Load. Similarly, FCL stands for Full
Container Load.
Q: What is Drayage?
A: Drayage is typically used to describe the
trucking service from an ocean port to a rail
ramp, warehouse, or other destination, on a
short haul basis.
Q: What are accessorial charges?
A: These are charges levied in addition to
freight. Typically, container detention charges,
port / CFS demurrage charges, weighment
charges, hazardous goods handling charges,
multiple delivery charges etc constitute
accessorial charges.
Q: What is Airway Bill?
A: Airway Bill (for air cargo) / Bill of Lading
(for ocean cargo) is a document issued by a
Freight Forwarder and / or a Carrier (Airline
/ Shipping Line respectively) recording
the names and addresses of the Sender of
the cargo (Shipper / Consignor) and the
Receiver of the cargo (Consignee), shipment
value, No. of pieces, description of the goods,
port of lading (origin port / airport) and
port of discharge (destination port / airport),
Carriage terms (INCO terms), special
instructions, if any, Date of shipment etc. In
a way, this is also an acknowledgement of
receipt of cargo for carriage from shipper.
Q: What is subrogation waiver? Why is it
being asked for exhibitions?
A: Waiver of subrogation means the waiver of
right to claim losses / damage.
For more queries related to logistics, please
email ask@bvclogistics.com
128 | february-march 2020 | INDIAN www.indianjeweller.in
JEWELLER

Citrine
From yellow to brownish or reddish orange and everything
in between, citrine comes in an assortment of warm colours,
making it a great autumn birthstone. This variety of quartz has
been used in jewellery for centuries, although most historical
citrine jewellery dates from the Victorian era. Often available in
large sizes and with high clarity, it has become a popular and
affordable choice for everyday jewellery. This stone symbolizes
energy, confidence and success.
Colour
Citrine is traditionally known for its yellow colour. That is
why its name means “lemon-coloured” in French and Latin.
The most valuable citrine is a saturated yellow to reddish
orange without any brown tints. Contemporary jewellery,
however, often features brownish or reddish orange citrine
marketed under delectable names such as “butterscotch”
or “whiskey” citrine.
Sources
The top sources for natural citrine are Bolivia, Spain,
Madagascar, Mexico and Uruguay. However, the majority of
citrine on the market today is heat-treated amethyst from
Brazil. Bolivia is the only commercial producer of ametrine.
To learn more about citrine and other popular gemstones,
visit GIA.edu/gem-encyclopedia
Citrine and amethyst can occur in the same crystal. The
unusual, bi-coloured gem that results is called ametrine.
Clarity
Citrine is known for its clarity and does not typically contain
eye-visible inclusions. Inclusions lower its value.
Treatments
Naturally-coloured citrine is rare; most citrine is amethyst
or smoky quartz that has been heat-treated to change its
colour to yellow.
This article is provided by GIA (Gemological Institute of America ® ).
GIA.edu
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