DW JAN - FEB 2020
The Big Story - G & J Trade Loses Momentum, Thanks to Coronavirus
The Big Story - G & J Trade Loses Momentum, Thanks to Coronavirus
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FOunDER: Late Vidya Vinod Kala<br />
Vol. 47 No.2 INDIA 300<br />
Alok Kala<br />
Editor and Publisher<br />
Arpit Kala<br />
Associate Publisher<br />
Vijetha Rangabashyam<br />
Senior Editor<br />
Gunjan Jain<br />
Business & Marketing<br />
Dhananjay Kokate<br />
Graphic Designer<br />
Subscription:<br />
India:<br />
Annual: Rs. 1500.00<br />
Single Copy: Rs. 300.00<br />
Overseas: Annual<br />
Airmail: US$ 150.00<br />
The<br />
Viral<br />
aTTack<br />
How Coronavirus is<br />
affecting the Global<br />
G&J Industry<br />
60 Years of BVC<br />
D-Day Diamond Jewellery<br />
Light, breezy & versatile does<br />
it for brides<br />
Sell your diamonds based<br />
on authenticity say retailers<br />
IIJS Signature <strong>2020</strong>, Antwerp<br />
Diamond Market, Red Carpet<br />
Jewels & more<br />
Vol. 47 # 2 • January-February <strong>2020</strong><br />
Cover Courtesy: Orlov<br />
Jewelry<br />
Administrative & Editorial Office :<br />
‘Journal House’, A-95, Janta Colony,<br />
Jaipur-302 004 (India)<br />
Ph.: (91-141) 2614398, 2610906,<br />
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Published from :<br />
Journal House,<br />
A-95, Janta Colony,<br />
Jaipur<br />
Coronavirus’ Impact on Global G&J Trade<br />
G&J Trade Loses<br />
Momentum, Thanks<br />
to Coronavirus<br />
Hong Kong is where the East meets West. It has been a<br />
melting pot of cultures, where many luxury brands have<br />
found their safety nets. There is nothing in Hong Kong you<br />
won’t find, including beautifully designed jewels, gemstones<br />
in variegated colours and of course diamonds. However, in<br />
the past few months, the city has been awash with crises. Following<br />
the antigovernment protests, the dreaded coronavirus<br />
is not just harming people, it is taking the flourish out of HK’s<br />
economy. A usually packed Kowloon is now deserted, as offices<br />
and factories remain closed. What’s more<br />
problematic in all this is the effect all of this is having on the<br />
Indian G&J trade reports Diamond World<br />
56 | The Big Story
64<br />
64 | Trade Fair<br />
IIJS Signature <strong>2020</strong><br />
Diamond Jewellery<br />
witnesses good<br />
demand<br />
107 | The roCk Talk<br />
Aquamarine, rainbow colour<br />
gemstones, charmed pieces<br />
& moon motif<br />
68 | anTwerp<br />
diamond markeT<br />
Antwerp Indicates<br />
Winds of Change<br />
86 | speCial FeaTure<br />
What Brides Want?<br />
72 | hoT oFF<br />
The press<br />
<strong>DW</strong>’s Fav 5<br />
78<br />
93 | speCial reporT<br />
GJSCI Symposium<br />
Spreading Knowledge &<br />
Technical Know-How<br />
120<br />
120 | red CarpeT Jewels<br />
Jewels from Golden Globes,<br />
SAG & Grammy Awards<br />
78 | Trade Fair: Vicenzaoro<br />
Vicenzaoro January – A Crowd<br />
Pleaser!<br />
112<br />
112 | naTion noTes<br />
Turkey: The Ottoman Magic<br />
100 | Company FoCus<br />
Beacon of Inspiration: 60 Years<br />
of Safeguarding the Industry<br />
116<br />
116 | design<br />
sTudio<br />
Sylva Yepremain<br />
- Sylva & Cie
editorial<br />
Gone Viral<br />
Just when we thought the industry will finally rest in peace after U.S.<br />
and China had signed the trade treaty, shock waves were felt across<br />
the industry because of a new problem and this time in the form of a<br />
virus. Coronavirus has turned the world upside down and with it the G&J<br />
industry has taken a beating too. India, which exports 30 per cent of its polished<br />
diamonds to China via Hong Kong is obviously feeling the impact of this global<br />
phenomenon and exporters are expecting anywhere between 8 – 10 percent drop<br />
in sales.<br />
The much anticipated HK Show has been postponed from March to May<br />
for obvious reasons and though inevitable, the industry is not happy about it.<br />
They were expecting to do good business, however, not everybody is sure if the<br />
new dates will be fruitful. January and February is officially the award season<br />
and we all waited with bated breath to see how the A-Listers would accessorize<br />
themselves. What can we say? Diamonds will always remain a red carpet’s best<br />
friend.<br />
We wanted to find out from retailers what brides want in terms of diamond<br />
jewellery and they had some very good insights to give. Diamond promotion, from<br />
mines to market is the need of the hour and hence we asked retailers how they<br />
are promoting their diamond jewellery. Interestingly, given the current context,<br />
promotions relating to certification and diamond authenticity works best.<br />
Another edition of IIJS Signature came to a successful finish and we learnt<br />
that buyers were more than interested in ordering diamond jewellery. There is<br />
hope after all!<br />
Happy reading!<br />
Editor<br />
Alok Kala<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 29
Round & About<br />
ROugH & Mining<br />
ALROSA relocates its March<br />
auctions from Hong Kong<br />
to other trading centers<br />
An auction for special size rough diamonds will take place in<br />
Moscow from March 2 to 18, <strong>2020</strong>. Ramat Gan (Israel) will<br />
host a polished diamond auction.<br />
"ALROSA is a regular participant of a major jewelry fair in Hong<br />
Kong. Every year, we hold<br />
auctions and tenders<br />
for rough and polished<br />
diamonds there. This year,<br />
the organizers decided to<br />
postpone the spring fair<br />
until the second half of<br />
May. Our company has<br />
adjusted its business plans respectively, and relocated two auctions<br />
scheduled for March fair," commented Evgeny Agureev, Deputy<br />
CEO of ALROSA.<br />
Every year, ALROSA holds four auctions in Hong Kong for<br />
special size rough diamonds and two polished diamond tenders.<br />
ALROSA unearths large 191ct<br />
rough diamond<br />
ALROSA unearthed the crystal in the early hours of<br />
December 25 at the Botuobinskaya kimberlite pipe<br />
in Yakutia. According to estimations made by ALROSA’s<br />
experts on site, a rough diamond weighing 190.77 carats<br />
has high quality characteristics.<br />
The age of the stone<br />
is estimated at about 2<br />
billion years. Further<br />
mineralogical analysis<br />
will reveal more precise<br />
numbers. “This is a<br />
true sign to find such a<br />
large and high-quality<br />
diamond just around the end of the year. The Nature<br />
has already endowed us in 2019. For example, a heartshaped<br />
diamond was mined at the Udachnaya pipe just<br />
before Valentine's Day. Surely, such findings are very<br />
remarkable," said Evgeny Agureev, Deputy CEO of<br />
ALROSA.<br />
Russian banks start granting loans to<br />
ALROSA's foreign clients<br />
international diamond manufacturer<br />
Dali Diamond, one of ALROSA's<br />
long-term clients, signed a loan<br />
agreement with EXIMBANK OF<br />
RUSSIA for the financing of rough<br />
diamond purchases from ALROSA.<br />
The loan agreement between<br />
EXIMBANK OF RUSSIA and Dali<br />
Diamond provides for a 24-month<br />
revolving credit line in Euros. The<br />
terms of financing are among the<br />
best in the industry today - both with<br />
regard to rates and deferred payments<br />
to the bank. EXIAR is in charge of<br />
risk insurance under the agreement.<br />
"It's another milestone for Dali<br />
Diamond to receive a seal of confidence<br />
of the EXIMBANK OF RUSSIA in<br />
choosing Dali as their first client in<br />
diamonds," noted Isidore Morsel,<br />
President of Dali Diamond Co.<br />
"We are happy that our long-term<br />
client Dali Diamonds had successful<br />
negotiations with the EXIMBANK<br />
OF RUSSIA and for the first time<br />
ever could finance the purchase of<br />
ALROSA's goods within a revolving<br />
credit line. It is a new source of funds<br />
in our industry, and we hope that such<br />
form of cooperation will work out,"<br />
says ALROSA Deputy CEO Evgeny<br />
Agureev.<br />
30 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
Rough & Mining<br />
Graff to buy diamonds<br />
from Lucapa Diamond<br />
Company<br />
Lucapa has signed an agreement with Safdico<br />
International, Graff's subsidiary according to which<br />
Safdico can buy 60 per cent of Lucapa's diamonds from<br />
Lulo mine. Safdico, Graff's subsidiary, provides the highend<br />
jewellery house with rarest polished diamonds from<br />
across the world. Under the agreement signed, Safdico<br />
will purchase 60 per cent of diamond roughs from Lulo<br />
mine. The Lulo diamonds purchased by Safdico are<br />
placed into the cutting & polishing partnership. Once<br />
procurement and manufacturing costs are deducted,<br />
the profits generated beyond the mine gate from the sale<br />
of the resultant polished diamonds are shared equally<br />
between SML and Safdico. The new revenues streams<br />
come as SML completes a self-funded US$12 million<br />
capital investment program designed to expand total<br />
group production to >60,000 carats in <strong>2020</strong> (on a 100%<br />
basis). This production increase, coupled with the new<br />
revenue streams generated from the cutting & polishing<br />
agreement with Safdico, will enable SML to generate<br />
higher returns for its partners and make more regular<br />
loan repayments to Lucapa.<br />
Petra Diamonds<br />
revenue slips as<br />
China, hong Kong<br />
demand wanes<br />
Petra Diamonds’ first-half revenue fell 6%, dented by lower<br />
prices as the diamond industry grappled with soft demand<br />
from China and Hong Kong, but the African miner said it would<br />
meet or exceed its annual production target.<br />
The industry has been facing slowing demand due to antigovernment<br />
protests in Hong Kong and the bruising trade dispute<br />
between China and the United States, while some analysts blame<br />
it on laboratory-grown diamonds.<br />
There has, however, been an improvement in demand in the<br />
second quarter, with rough diamond pricing seeing a modest rise,<br />
the miner said, adding it is on track to meet or exceed its full-year<br />
production outlook of about 3.8 Mcts. Revenue for the six months<br />
ended Dec. 31, came in at $193.9 million compared with $207.1<br />
million last year, while production inched up 3% during the first<br />
half, the African diamond miner said. Petra said lower prices<br />
and poor quality diamonds from the Finsch mine in South Africa<br />
offset the sale of the exceptional blue diamond from its flagship<br />
Cullinan mine. Petra’s net debt stood at $596.4 million, at the end<br />
of December, from $592.8 million as of September-end.<br />
32 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
POLISHED DIAMONDS<br />
SRK introduces attractively<br />
designed diamond packets<br />
Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt. Ltd.<br />
(SRK), one of the largest diamond<br />
crafting company in the industry is<br />
introducing an innovative design for<br />
Diamond Packets. Designed for better<br />
security, this newly designed packet is<br />
re-defining the traditional norms of the<br />
industry.<br />
The idea of the packet has been<br />
conceptualized by an in-house team<br />
of SRK. These packets are extremely<br />
durable, and the best paper quality used<br />
will ensure its longevity. The first of its<br />
kind in the diamond industry, the new<br />
diamond packets are 100% reusable with<br />
its unique sticker prints which users can<br />
easily peel-off. With this, the user can now<br />
have his own details printing or written on<br />
the stone, the way he/she wants.<br />
The most important feature of this New<br />
Diamond Packet is its Window of Hope;<br />
the new packets have a Transparent<br />
Peep-in window which will give surety<br />
to the Diamond owner about the physical<br />
presence of the diamond in the Packet without unfolding<br />
the full packet. This not only will ensure better enhanced<br />
security to the stone, but also will improve the efficiency in<br />
the time required to handle them, as they need to unfold it<br />
less to view the stones.<br />
The introduction of this innovation from SRK comes<br />
shortly after the company that polishes one of the largest<br />
inventories of 3Cts. and 5Cts.plus, Natural Diamonds<br />
launched their Traceability initiative “The Footprints” last<br />
year which is certified by British Standard Institute with<br />
PAS 7000 certificate.<br />
34 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
POLISHED DIAMONDS<br />
Pink diamond tiger leaps<br />
onto rare Perth Mint coins<br />
As one of the most powerful animals<br />
in Eastern culture, the majestic tiger<br />
has been immortalised in rare Argyle<br />
pink diamonds on The Perth Mint’s most<br />
significant release for <strong>2020</strong>.<br />
The opulent Jewelled Tiger coin is<br />
crafted from 10oz of 99.99% pure gold<br />
and adorned with a finely sculptured threedimensional<br />
18 carat rose gold tiger pavé<br />
set with nearly three carats of fancy vivid<br />
intense pink diamonds from Rio Tinto’s<br />
famed Argyle Diamond Mine. In contrast to<br />
its warm hue, two vibrant green Columbian<br />
Muso Emeralds represent the eyes of the<br />
mighty animal.Surmounting the coin, the<br />
tiger is presented with a fierce expression<br />
to display its dominance as it ascends a<br />
stylised rocky outcrop of mountain ranges<br />
with oriental foliage. The design is headed<br />
by the inscription THE JEWELLED<br />
TIGER and includes the Chinese character<br />
for ‘tiger’. Native to many mountainous<br />
regions across Asia, the tiger is believed<br />
to be the ruler of all beasts and ‘king’ of<br />
the mountains. Renowned for its power<br />
and beauty, the tiger shares the symbolic<br />
virtues of gold, so it was a natural choice<br />
to feature this revered creature on such a<br />
sophisticated release said Perth Mint Chief<br />
Executive Officer Richard Hayes.<br />
This rare Australian collectable features<br />
the Jody Clark effigy of Her Majesty Queen<br />
Elizabeth II, the monetary denomination<br />
and the <strong>2020</strong> year-date on its obverse.<br />
Priced at $259,000 (incl GST), the Jewelled<br />
Tiger coin is available for purchase instore<br />
or online.<br />
135 Fatherless<br />
Daughters tied knots<br />
at Mass Wedding<br />
Ceremony in Surat<br />
The Mass Marriage Ceremony in Surat<br />
featured 271 young couples from<br />
diverse cultural and religious backgrounds.<br />
The ceremony that was organized by Kiran<br />
Gems Private Limited and PP Savani Group<br />
on December 21 and 22, 2019 was attended<br />
by State Ministers, Shri Bhupendrasinh<br />
Chudasama and Shri Ganpatsinh Vasava.<br />
Shri Vallabhbhai Patel, Shri Mavjibhai<br />
Patel, Dinesh bhai Lakhani and Rajesh<br />
bhai Lakhani performed the Hindu ritual<br />
of Kanyadaan – the practice of giving away<br />
one’s daughter in marriage.<br />
Star Rays becomes a carbon neutral company<br />
Star Rays, a leading Indian diamond<br />
manufacturer and exporter, has<br />
underlined its commitment to sustainable<br />
business practices by<br />
working towards becoming<br />
India’s first carbon-neutral<br />
diamond company. Star Rays<br />
is participating in the World<br />
Jewellery Confederation’s<br />
(CIBJO) Greenhouse Gas<br />
(GHG) Measuring and Offsetting Initiative<br />
to ensure that its carbon emissions and<br />
removals are measured in accordance<br />
with international standards.<br />
“Global warming and climate change<br />
have come to the fore as a key issue in<br />
sustainable development. Every human<br />
activity in the world releases<br />
carbon dioxide. We are<br />
committed to reducing carbon<br />
emissions at every step in our<br />
business and personal life. As<br />
a responsible company, our<br />
motto at Star Rays is to make<br />
the world a better place to live in. We<br />
have therefore decided to collaborate<br />
with Carbon Expert, a carbon consultancy<br />
firm who have developed processes and<br />
best practices to help companies become<br />
carbon neutral by complying with GHG<br />
Protocol Corporate Standard” says Jitesh<br />
Shah - Partner Star Rays.<br />
“Environmental and social<br />
responsibility has become a mission for<br />
Star Rays. Carbon neutrality is just one<br />
of a number of initiatives Star Rays has<br />
adopted to ensure that our clients can take<br />
pride in purchasing natural diamonds<br />
manufactured by an environmentally and<br />
socially-conscious company,” says Rahul<br />
Jauhari – Sr. Vice President, Global<br />
Salesand Marketing, Star Rays.<br />
36 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
POLISHED DIAMONDS<br />
Season 7 of Kiran Premier<br />
League <strong>2020</strong> a Grand Success<br />
Captain - DM Tigers with the Captains of other teams<br />
Kiran Premier League <strong>2020</strong> – Season<br />
7 was a 4-day fun-filled carnival<br />
organized by Kiran Gems Private Limited.<br />
Season - 7 started with a bang and was held<br />
from January 30 to February 2, <strong>2020</strong>, in Air<br />
India Sports Club, Mumbai.<br />
Directors, Dinesh Lakhani and Rajesh<br />
Lakhani welcomed the 16 participating<br />
teams and wished them luck! As always,<br />
the entire Kiran Team welcomed Kiran<br />
Alliance, the team of diamond brokers that<br />
played as well.<br />
Director, Dinesh Lakhani said, “Cricket<br />
is a sport that has the potential to unite<br />
Captain, Dinesh Lakhani of DM Tigers with<br />
his Trophy<br />
people in one thread. A sport that is engaging<br />
and increases camaraderie between the<br />
team members. It improves social skills<br />
such as cooperation, communication and<br />
learning how to cope with winning and<br />
losing, team skills and a fantastic way<br />
to re-connect with the colleagues.” The<br />
atmosphere on the pitch was energetic<br />
and action-packed. Stadium during all<br />
the games was the liveliest place that was<br />
witnessed by all that were present there.<br />
“We call ourselves One Big Family and it<br />
really is true”, mentioned Director, Rajesh<br />
Lakhani. “Every family member at Kiran<br />
Gems looks for ways to help each other. It’s<br />
a ‘Happy Workplace’. We encourage and<br />
foster a work environment that is fun and<br />
that inspires employees to take joy in their<br />
work,” he added.<br />
Kiran Premier League Trophy and<br />
Favourite Team Title was won by Dinesh<br />
Lakhani’s team DM Tigers.<br />
38 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
Lab & TechnoLogy<br />
De beers group Industry Services<br />
partners with RDI Diamonds Inc<br />
De Beers Group Industry Services<br />
has announced a new collaboration<br />
with leading US wholesaler, RDI<br />
Diamonds Inc., to become its premier<br />
source of diamond grading reports.<br />
The partnership marks De Beers<br />
Group Industry Services’ first step into<br />
diamond grading activity in the U.S.<br />
As part of the collaboration, De Beers<br />
Group Industry Services will be the<br />
exclusive grader of Rare and Forever<br />
diamonds from RDI and assist in<br />
various educational activities and sales<br />
training. Jonathan Kendall, President of<br />
De Beers Group Industry Services, said:<br />
“De Beers Group Industry Services<br />
prides itself on its high standards,<br />
consistency and proprietary technology.<br />
We are so pleased to see companies<br />
like RDI Diamonds taking measures to<br />
ensure their customers can be confident<br />
the diamonds they are buying are<br />
accurately represented on their grading<br />
reports.<br />
“This move will give RDI Diamonds<br />
something truly compelling to offer to<br />
their clients, from a company that is<br />
recognized as a leader in the diamond<br />
industry. They can substantiate, clearly<br />
define, and explain the differences<br />
between grades, guaranteeing the<br />
customer the highest standards<br />
of diamond grading supported by<br />
innovative and proprietary technology<br />
from De Beers Group Industry Services.”<br />
Michael Indelicato, CEO of RDI<br />
Diamonds, said: “We were humbled<br />
to be approached by De Beers Group<br />
Industry Services for such an important<br />
opportunity: introducing the United<br />
States to this grading report. We have<br />
been blown away by the integration<br />
of unparalleled technology to ensure<br />
consistent and accurate grading. These<br />
grading reports are going to be a gamechanger<br />
here in the States, and we are<br />
excited to be a premier partner.”<br />
GIA Offers $2 million in Scholarships for <strong>2020</strong><br />
scholarship from GIA<br />
a (Gemological Institute of<br />
America) can help with the cost of<br />
the Institute’s industry-leading and<br />
globally-recognized diploma and<br />
certificate programs. Applications<br />
are now available for scholarships<br />
for professionals and students<br />
interested in gemology and jewelry<br />
manufacturing arts programs, distance<br />
education courses and lab classes<br />
related to gems and jewelry.<br />
Anna Doll, GIA Graduate<br />
Gemologist, Applied Jewelry<br />
Professional and scholarship<br />
recipient, said, “The GIA scholarship<br />
made a huge impact in my life. I would<br />
not have been able to be here without it.”<br />
Scholarships funded by the GIA<br />
Endowment Fund and private donors<br />
are available for distance education<br />
eLearning courses and lab classes,<br />
and for GIA’s Gemology and Jewelry<br />
Manufacturing Arts programs and<br />
classes at the Institute’s campuses<br />
in Bangkok, Carlsbad, Hong Kong,<br />
London, Mumbai, New York and<br />
Taiwan.<br />
In 2019, GIA awarded 458<br />
scholarships that ranged from $600 to<br />
$23,000 to pursue eLearning courses,<br />
lab classes and on-campus programs.<br />
GIA has awarded nearly $10 million<br />
in scholarships since 2015, helping<br />
more than 2,000 students study at GIA<br />
globally.<br />
40 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
Lab & TechnoLogy<br />
gIa brings Diamond<br />
origin Reports to<br />
Times Square<br />
gIA brings the message of its consumer protection<br />
mission and its new innovative Diamond Origin<br />
Reports to crowds in New York City’s Times Square during<br />
the holiday season, including the famous New Year’s<br />
celebrations and Valentine’s Day.<br />
“Over the coming months, there will be millions of<br />
engagement moments shared around the world. At the<br />
center of most will be the story of a diamond,” said Mark<br />
Buntz, GIA’s senior vice president and chief marketing<br />
officer. “At GIA, we are proud to give consumers the<br />
knowledge to tell that story, and to trust in the quality and<br />
origin of their diamond. There is no place better than the<br />
heartbeat center of New York City to introduce consumers<br />
to GIA’s mission, services and reports.”<br />
Two ads about GIA’s innovative Diamond Origin Report<br />
and the 4Cs of Diamond Quality – Color, Clarity, Cut and<br />
Carat Weight – alternate on the 56-by-29-foot wrap-around<br />
video billboard at 1500 Broadway on the north-east corner<br />
at West 43rd Street. One of the two 15-second spots will<br />
run three times each hour from 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. until Feb.<br />
15, <strong>2020</strong>. The two videos, along with a third ad focused on<br />
diamond shopping that ran from Nov. 15 through Dec. 25,<br />
2019 are also on GIA’s YouTube channel.<br />
DRC Techno introduces<br />
three new automatic CVD<br />
/HPHT diamond detectors<br />
F<br />
or the first time in the history of lab-grown diamond detection<br />
industry, DRC Techno is proudly introducing three new<br />
revolutionary automatic (objective type) series of lab-grown<br />
(CVD/HPHT) diamond detectors with the equivalent capabilities<br />
of our most refined and automatic detector developed till date for<br />
high capacity analysis; The J Smart Pro.<br />
Yes, you heard it right. No more ‘Maybe’, only ‘Yes’ or ‘No’.<br />
Gone are the days of manual (subjective type) result<br />
interpretation, where the human judgment might lead to an<br />
error in interpreting the lab-grown diamond detection results.<br />
Followed by rigorous research, customer surveys and product/<br />
market fit; to identify the genuine pain points of all members in<br />
the natural diamond & diamond Jewellery supply chain. DRC<br />
Techno understood and realized the need of the hour to provide<br />
an uncomplicated solution to meet customer’s deep need of<br />
safeguarding their respective merchandise and brand image in the<br />
most convenient and cost-effective manner; because of the ever<br />
increasing global threat of the undisclosed lab-grown diamonds<br />
entering the natural diamonds<br />
supply chain.<br />
Now, with the unmatched<br />
state of the art technology from<br />
DRC Techno, every lab-grown<br />
diamond (loose or mounted) can<br />
be detected accurately, at each<br />
stage of a diamond journey.<br />
42 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
Lab & TechnoLoGy<br />
Sarine Technologies Continues<br />
Enforcement of its Intellectual<br />
Property<br />
Sarine and its subsidiary, Galatea Ltd., have filed<br />
additional lawsuits in India for patent and copyright<br />
infringement against manufacturers of IP-infringing Galaxy<br />
machines. As part of such lawsuits, court-appointed<br />
commissioners yesterday conducted surprise inspections of<br />
various locations in the diamond manufacturing centre of<br />
Surat where such systems are allegedly being manufactured<br />
and/or utilised in violation of Sarine’s patents and<br />
copyrights.<br />
David Block, CEO of Sarine, states that, “It is<br />
encouraging to see the drop in the response time of the<br />
Indian authorities to the problem of piracy in the market.<br />
In only a matter of days, the commissioners were appointed<br />
and sites inspected with police assistance so that our cases<br />
can proceed through the courts.”<br />
IGI empowers the<br />
retail team and<br />
end consumers at<br />
Londe Jewellers<br />
The International Gemological Institute, IGI,<br />
conducted a Retail Support Program for the sales<br />
team of Londe Jewellers at Nagpur. This was followed by<br />
the IGI Know Your Diamond Jewelry seminar for the end<br />
consumers where about three hundred end consumers<br />
and diamond enthusiasts were given a detailed<br />
understanding of the many aspects in solitaires and fine<br />
jewelry. Over 300 hundred participants attended the<br />
Know Your Diamond Jewelry seminar while the sales<br />
team underwent a retail training session.<br />
The Know Your Diamond Jewelry seminar was well<br />
attended by the jeweler’s esteemed clientele wherein<br />
they were enlightened about the many aspects in a<br />
diamond. "We, at Londe Jewellers, are truly grateful<br />
to team IGI for the extensive training and knowledge<br />
sharing sessions. Our employees have surely benefited<br />
from the sessions and the customers too, have gained<br />
major insights about diamonds and fine jewelry. We<br />
hope to utilize the knowledge shared in our future<br />
course of business," said Rajesh Londhe of Londe<br />
Jewellers.<br />
From things to remember while purchasing fine<br />
jewelry to evaluating the jewelry grading certificate,<br />
the session helped the end consumers understand the<br />
intrinsic characteristics that make a diamond.<br />
44 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
Lab & TechnoLogy<br />
GIA Suspends<br />
Diamond Sealing<br />
Services<br />
g<br />
IA has suspended diamond sealing services.<br />
The Institute is taking this action after recently<br />
encountering a small number of GIA sealing packets that<br />
had been compromised by third parties after the sealing<br />
packets left GIA. In these instances, GIA determined that<br />
the diamonds originally enclosed in the compromised<br />
packets had been replaced with HPHT (high-pressure,<br />
high-temperature) treated natural diamonds. The<br />
substitute treated diamonds superficially matched<br />
the GIA report information for the original diamonds,<br />
including information on the sealing packet data label.<br />
GIA is suspending sealing services in all locations<br />
indefinitely, pending an investigation of the source of this<br />
fraud. Anyone with concerns about a GIA-sealed diamond<br />
may submit the unopened packet to any GIA laboratory<br />
for verification services. If GIA concludes that the<br />
diamond in the sealing packet is the diamond described<br />
in the original report, the Institute will issue a verification<br />
letter confirming the diamond matches the original<br />
report. If the diamond does not match the GIA report,<br />
the Institute will issue a new report with the correct<br />
results. All sealed diamonds submitted for this free-ofcharge<br />
verification service will be returned unsealed. The<br />
verification service will be provided free-of-charge for<br />
diamonds received in a sealed packet.<br />
gTL collaborates with<br />
ebay for gemstone<br />
certification<br />
In an attempt to put the Gem Testing Laboratory (GTL) on the<br />
global map, Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council<br />
(GJEPC) signed an MOU with eBay on 3rd January <strong>2020</strong>. eBay<br />
will offer a special discounted price for gemstone certification by<br />
GTL under the terms of this MOU.<br />
The MOU was signed by Sanjay Singh, Regional Director,<br />
GJEPC and Vidmay<br />
Naini, Country Head,<br />
Ebay. Speaking on the<br />
occasion, Vidmay Naini<br />
commented, “With the<br />
help of social media we will<br />
market the certification<br />
in US thereby increasing<br />
consumer confidence<br />
which will lead to higher<br />
sales. One thing I would like to highlight is that when you’re<br />
selling on eBay, you’re not competing against your own sellers,<br />
you are competing against the world sellers. The sellers can be<br />
in Thailand, China, Europe or Africa- this certification will give<br />
us a competitive advantage over those sellers. Once buyers start<br />
recognizing this certification as quality and assurance, trust will<br />
go up. Once trust goes up so will our sales. So I congratulate all<br />
of us for this endeavour and hope this partnership will open up<br />
more doors and more markets for our sellers and overall win-win<br />
situation for all of us.”<br />
46 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
AssociAtion & trAde Bodies<br />
Haridas Kotahwala<br />
of Royal India USA<br />
elected President<br />
of IDCA<br />
iDCA elects Haridas Kotahwala<br />
of Royal India USA as its<br />
President for the year <strong>2020</strong>. The<br />
Kotahwala family has been an<br />
expert in<br />
gems and<br />
jewellery<br />
spanning<br />
across 5<br />
generations<br />
with offices<br />
in Mumbai, Jaipur & U.S. Haridas<br />
has served as President in the year<br />
2009 as well.<br />
Shekhar Shah from Real<br />
Gems and Shiksha Naheta from<br />
Empresa Jewels will continue to<br />
be the group’s secretary and joint<br />
secretary respectively and Nitin<br />
Jobanputra from Sanghvi Diamond<br />
was elected vice president. Sujan<br />
Doshi from S.A. Diamonds was<br />
elected treasurer.<br />
Rutali Gandhi from Sagar<br />
Star Corp. was elected as board<br />
member. Shrenil Bhansali from<br />
Fairway Diamonds, Prakash<br />
Mehta from Interings, Prashant<br />
Mehta from Dia Expressions,<br />
Sailesh Lakhi from Sparkles &<br />
Colors USA and Nilesh Sheth from<br />
Nice Diamonds were re-elected<br />
as directors and Parag Jain from<br />
Paramount Gems and Amit Jhalani<br />
from TBR International were<br />
elected as new directors.<br />
International Diamond Week<br />
receives good response<br />
the International Diamond Week in<br />
Israel opened to a packed exhibition<br />
hall, with over 300 international buyers<br />
from 18 countries in attendance. Also<br />
participating were diamond leaders<br />
from around the world including Alrosa<br />
President Sergei Ivanov, WFDB President<br />
Ernie Blom, CIBJO President Dr. Gaetano<br />
Cavalieri, Bharat Diamond Bourse VP<br />
Mehul Shah, Dubai’s DMCC Executive<br />
Chairman and CEO Ahmed Bin Sulayem,<br />
London Diamond Exchange President Alan<br />
Cohen and Honorary President of the World<br />
Diamond Council Eli Izhakoff.<br />
The ceremony was also attended by<br />
Ramat Gan Mayor Carmel ShamaHacohen,<br />
and Israeli diamond leaders Israel Diamond<br />
Exchange (IDE) President Yoram Dvash,<br />
Israel Diamond Manufacturers Association<br />
(ISDMA) Jacob Korn, Israel Diamond<br />
Institute (IDI) Boaz Moldawsky and<br />
Chairman of the I<strong>DW</strong>I <strong>2020</strong> Ezra Boaron.<br />
The show, which features more than $1<br />
billion worth of diamonds will continue<br />
through February 12, <strong>2020</strong>. Among the<br />
300 buyers from around the world were<br />
110 buyers who arrived in Israel for the first<br />
time.<br />
In his opening remarks IDE President<br />
Yoram Dvash said, "I am delighted to see<br />
all the distinguished guests who came<br />
from Israel and abroad. This year, a record<br />
number of buyers and delegations from<br />
around the world have arrived here.”He<br />
said that thetotal number of participants<br />
would have been larger, but that due to the<br />
emergency declared in China, many of the<br />
East Asian buyers were not able to attend.<br />
“We all hope that the Chinese will soon be<br />
able to control the spread of the corona virus<br />
and that the entire world will breathe a sigh<br />
of relief.”<br />
Dvash added, "We are at the beginning<br />
of <strong>2020</strong> and we very much hope that this<br />
year will be one of recovery in the markets.<br />
In light of the reductions in rough allocation<br />
by some producers, shortages have been<br />
created and demand for certain goods has<br />
grown. This is certainly a step that will allow<br />
an adjustment in the global levels of rough<br />
and polished goods. We hope that this trend<br />
will continue in the coming months, and<br />
will create new opportunities for theworld<br />
diamond industry. "<br />
48 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
AssociAtion & trAde Bodies<br />
iGi opens new offices in shanghai<br />
Moving after 10 years from the<br />
Podung area to the prestigious<br />
Fosun building in the core of the Bund<br />
Financial Center, the new offices include<br />
multiple classrooms and a state-ofthe-art<br />
laboratory. IGI's Shanghai base<br />
is positioned as a hub in the Asia-<br />
Pacific region and will offer enhanced<br />
educational and grading services as well<br />
as gemological information to everyone<br />
interested in gems and jewellery.<br />
“IGI’s Shanghai base will promote<br />
mutual understanding between IGI and<br />
the domestic jewellery industry and<br />
establish its reputation and influence<br />
among consumers, which leads the<br />
domestic consuming market to gain<br />
more internationalized information,”<br />
expressed Yan Nanhai, vice president<br />
of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange.<br />
“IGI was one of the few representatives<br />
of international companies that was<br />
invited to participate in the second ‘Belt<br />
and Road International Cooperation<br />
Summit Forum,’ a successful model<br />
of cooperation between Western and<br />
Chinese companies under the national<br />
strategic framework, continued Nanhai.<br />
“We hope that in the new year, IGI’s<br />
Shanghai base will play a leading role<br />
in the industry."<br />
“IGI serves industry peers and<br />
consumers, providing professional<br />
services and quality assurance and<br />
helps the jewelry industry to improve<br />
their skills,” said Roland Lorie,<br />
global CEO of IGI. “With the rapid<br />
development of the Chinese jewelry<br />
market, IGI education offers the<br />
possibility for the domestic industry to<br />
improve acumen and gain international<br />
empowerment.”<br />
BVCI is now a certified member of<br />
Responsible Jewellery Council<br />
BV Chinai & Co.<br />
(India) Pvt. Ltd.,<br />
(BVCI) India’s leading<br />
customs clearance<br />
company for diamond<br />
and jewellery, has<br />
achieved the certified Membership<br />
by the Responsible Jewellery Council<br />
(RJC) for the Code of Practices<br />
(COP) 2019. RJC is the jewellery<br />
industry’s foremost standard-setting<br />
and certification body.<br />
RJC membership always<br />
brings upon BVCI an enormous<br />
responsibility of ensuring<br />
the best practices in its<br />
business relationships &<br />
operations. BVCI’s ethical<br />
approach to business<br />
& continuous stress on<br />
regulatory compliances addresses<br />
the worries of its customers by<br />
assuaging and providing, in reality, a<br />
seamless EXIM operation. Further this<br />
membership is a symbol of enhanced<br />
customer trust in BVCI.<br />
Uday Chinai, Chairman,BV<br />
Chinai& Co. (India) Pvt. Ltd., (BVCI)<br />
said, “We are thrilled to receive<br />
the coveted membership certificate<br />
from RJC. Since its inception in the<br />
year 1960, BVC has been an active<br />
partner to the Gems & Jewellery<br />
industry, with logistics solutions for<br />
the entire value chain. We adhere<br />
to the highest standards of business<br />
ethics while providing a superior<br />
and modified solution with the aid.<br />
We will help bring in global best<br />
practices relevant to the precious<br />
cargo industry in India.”<br />
50 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
Export of lab grown polished diamonds<br />
witnessed a massive surge of 111%<br />
For the first time, the export of lab-grown<br />
polished diamonds ahead of Christmas<br />
season witnessed a massive 111 per cent<br />
increase to Rs 155 crore in November<br />
compared to Rs 73 crore in November<br />
compared to Rs 73 crore in November 2018.<br />
At the same time, the export of natural<br />
polished diamonds fell by 25%, though it’s<br />
much bigger in value terms.<br />
Many leading diamond jewellery brands<br />
Lab Grown DiamonDs<br />
in the US including Signet Jewellers largest<br />
retailer of diamond jewellery, now sell labgrown<br />
diamonds.<br />
Lab-grown Diamond and Jewellery<br />
Promotion Council (LGDJPC) chairman<br />
Shashikant Shah said, "Given their cheaper<br />
price, these diamonds are gaining huge<br />
acceptance among consumers in the US.<br />
Compared to natural diamond exports, the<br />
lab-grown diamond exports value is very<br />
negligible. But, this segment is seeing<br />
double digit growth and the exports will only<br />
keep increasing in the coming years."<br />
IIa Technologies<br />
successfully invalidates<br />
key Element Six patent<br />
The High Court of Singapore agreed with IIa<br />
Technologies and found that one of Element Six’s<br />
key patent no. 110508 in Singapore (“ SG ‘508”) which<br />
relates to the production and annealing of CVD Diamonds<br />
to improve their color, is invalid. The High Court has<br />
ordered that SG ‘508<br />
be revoked. For this<br />
reason, the High Court<br />
further concluded that<br />
IIa Technologies has<br />
not infringed SG ‘508.<br />
The High Court found that another Element Six patent<br />
no.115872, which relates to the production of optical<br />
grade diamonds, is valid and has been infringed. IIa<br />
Technologies and its lawyers are studying the judgment<br />
and will consider its next steps.<br />
Vishal Mehta said, “IIa Technologies has developed<br />
its proprietary process in the last 15 years and is proud<br />
of the work we have done to bring lab grown diamonds to<br />
the world. The current judgment will be considered in its<br />
entirety and then the company will take necessary steps<br />
to protect its interests.”<br />
iia Technologies found to<br />
have infringed Element six<br />
synthetic diamond patent<br />
Element Six expressed satisfaction at the successful conclusion<br />
of its patent infringement action against IIa Technologies<br />
in Singapore. IIa Technologies was found by The High Court of<br />
Singapore to have infringed an Element Six patent for proprietary<br />
synthetic diamond products and their method of manufacture<br />
(Singapore patent number 115872). The patent in question relates<br />
to the production of<br />
material which is<br />
desirable both for<br />
use in laboratorygrown<br />
diamond jewellery, and in optical applications such as<br />
infrared spectroscopy and high-power laser optics.<br />
A secondary Element Six patent relating to the treatment of<br />
CVD synthetic diamond (Singapore patent number 110508) was not<br />
found to be valid in Singapore and Element Six is considering its<br />
legal options with regards to this decision.<br />
Element Six has invested hundreds of millions of dollars over<br />
more than 60 years to become a leading producer of synthetic<br />
diamond material, developing new material to tackle some of science<br />
and industry’s most intractable challenges. Any use of Element Six<br />
patents, without its consent, negatively impacts its ability to get a<br />
full return from its investment and undermines its ability to carry out<br />
further important research and development.<br />
52 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Round & About<br />
Lab Grown DiamonDs<br />
swarovski's new lab-grown diamond<br />
collection includes new cuts and colours<br />
During Paris Haute Couture Fashion<br />
Week, Swarovski launched 16<br />
new created diamonds in astonishing<br />
cuts and colours. Swarovski created<br />
diamonds are a 21st century innovation<br />
that builds on their heritage of mastery<br />
and craftsmanship, dating back to the<br />
company’s founding in 1895. With<br />
the debut of this colourful collection,<br />
Swarovski pushes the boundaries of<br />
art and science, offering lab-created<br />
diamonds in 16 astonishing colours –<br />
the most extensive assortment of hues<br />
available on the global market today.<br />
<strong>2020</strong> is Swarovski’s 125th anniversary<br />
and this exploration of new materials<br />
and technologies marks the promise<br />
of a colourful year and future. The<br />
colors in the collection pay homage to<br />
Swarovski’s history of mutually creative<br />
collaborations and to the vision and<br />
innovation on which the brand’s heritage<br />
and enduring ingenuity is built upon.<br />
The 16 colours are arranged in four<br />
pillars, each referencing a creative<br />
field in which Swarovski has always<br />
played a vital role: Fashion, Art, Music<br />
& Architecture. The colours come from<br />
a range of inspirations: the sky in a<br />
cubist painting, a gothic sculpture, a<br />
couture gown and the colours dominating<br />
a variety of music cultures. Each pillar<br />
of the lab-grown diamonds contain four<br />
cushion cut diamonds led by the boldest<br />
of the four colours available in 2.5 ct.<br />
size. The rest three colours are 1.25 ct.<br />
each. The standard selection in fancy<br />
colors will reportedly be offered from<br />
0.25 ct. to 1.5 ct.<br />
Carnegie Institution Seeks Cut of Rising Lab-<br />
Grown Diamond Sales<br />
The Carnegie Institution of<br />
Washington, which has been<br />
doing scientific research for more than<br />
a century, filed lawsuits in New York<br />
alleging its patents for growing diamonds<br />
in a lab are being infringed by some top<br />
makers of such gem stones.<br />
The institute filed three complaints<br />
Thursday in Manhattan federal court<br />
against six companies, including<br />
Pure Grown Diamonds Inc. and IIa<br />
Technologies PTE Ltd. Carnegie<br />
and M7D Corp., which licenses the<br />
technology, said in the lawsuits that<br />
they are seeking cash compensation and<br />
court orders blocking unauthorized use of<br />
two patents. Carnegie says its technology<br />
uses a chemical vapor deposition (CVD)<br />
process to control growth from a diamond<br />
seed, “atom by atom, to the highest purity<br />
and quality.” Sales of man-made diamonds<br />
have been increasing in recent years<br />
because many are offered at lower prices<br />
than similar gems from a mine.<br />
“Grown or synthetic diamonds are<br />
chemically, physically and optically<br />
identical to mined diamonds,” Carnegie<br />
said in one complaint. “In fact, the<br />
Federal Trade commission has recently<br />
changed the definition of the term<br />
‘diamond’ to remove the term ‘natural.’”<br />
Pure Grown and IIa Technologies<br />
were sued in one complaint, while<br />
another was filed against ALTR Inc. and<br />
its parent, R.A. Riam Group Inc. A third<br />
targets Mahendra Brothers Exports Pvt.<br />
Ltd. and its parent, Fenix Diamonds<br />
LLC.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 53
Round & About<br />
Retail & e-CommeRCe<br />
tiffany comes to india!<br />
the iconic jewellery brand has finally arrived on the Indian soil as they flung their<br />
doors open for business in the Capital after a soft launch on the eve of Republic<br />
Day. The global jewellery giant enters India through a joint venture with the retail arm<br />
of Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Industries making Delhi's Chanakya Mall - the new 'it'<br />
destination for jewellery lovers now. Although<br />
the iconic Blue Box Cafe is yet to open (not<br />
announced), one can still bask in the glory of<br />
the timeless classic Audrey Hepburn's film<br />
Breakfast At Tiffany's, well almost!<br />
From gemstones to diamonds, the<br />
2,600sqft store in Delhi showcases the full<br />
range of Tiffany including Tiffany T, Tiffany<br />
HardWear, Tiffany True and their Home &<br />
Accessories collection. Not just that, to make your experience top-notch, they also<br />
have a luxurious private salon for scheduled appointments.<br />
“From their new designs as well its classic collections, the new store celebrates<br />
the craftsmanship and exceptional quality that characterise the brand’s extraordinary<br />
pieces,” a statement issued through Reliance said. The 183-year-old company is<br />
reportedly opening its second store in Mumbai later this year.<br />
malabar Gold & Diamonds<br />
opens new store in Qatar<br />
malabar Gold & Diamonds, one<br />
among the largest jewellery<br />
retailers globally with a strong retail<br />
network of over 250 outlets spread across<br />
10 countries, has revealed its new store<br />
in Qatar. The new store conveniently<br />
located at Fereej Al Nasr Street is the<br />
14th store of Malabar Gold & Diamonds<br />
in Qatar. Malabar Gold & Diamonds is<br />
the flagship company of Malabar Group,<br />
a leading diversified Indian business<br />
conglomerate. Established in 1993 in<br />
the Indian state of Kerala, Malabar<br />
Gold & Diamonds today has a strong<br />
retail network of over 250 outlets spread<br />
across 10 countries, 14 wholesale units<br />
in addition to offices, design centers and<br />
factories spread across India, Middle<br />
East, Far East & USA. With an annual<br />
turnover of $4.51bn, the company<br />
currently ranks one among the largest<br />
jewellery retailers globally.<br />
With 14 cluster manufacturing<br />
units in India and GCC – the company<br />
currently has 12 jewellery brands<br />
to cater to the discerning needs of<br />
customers. With headquarters in Kerala<br />
and branches across India, Middle<br />
East & Far East, Malabar Group is<br />
best known for its activities in the field<br />
of gold, diamonds, silver and lifestyle<br />
articles.<br />
Second biggest<br />
diamond ever<br />
now belongs to<br />
Fashion Mogul<br />
Louis Vuitton<br />
Sewelo - the largest rough diamond<br />
discovered since 1905 now<br />
belongs to French fashion house and<br />
luxury retailer Louis Vuitton. The<br />
news created quite a stir in the gems<br />
and jewellery industry worldwide<br />
since this was an unprecendeted move<br />
from anyone in the fashion industry.<br />
While the biggies of the industry<br />
wrap their heads around the big<br />
move by LV, Michael Burke, the chief<br />
executive of<br />
Louis Vuitton,<br />
in one of his<br />
interviews,<br />
shared how<br />
surprised his<br />
competitors<br />
are adding that it will spice things up a<br />
bit and wake up the industry.<br />
Discovered in April 2019 at the<br />
Karowe mine in Botswana (owned by<br />
Lucara Diamond Corp, a Canadian<br />
miner), the baseball-size Sewelo is<br />
the second largest rough diamond<br />
ever mined. The largest was 3,106.75<br />
Cullinan diamond, which was<br />
discovered in South Africa in 1905<br />
and eventually yielded two enormous<br />
high-quality stones — one of 530.4<br />
carats and one 317.4, both now part<br />
of the British crown jewels, as well as<br />
many smaller stones.<br />
54 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Divine Solitaires<br />
announces exciting<br />
solitaire offer at Kuldip<br />
Sons Jewellers<br />
(L-R) Nagendra Keshri, Jignesh Mehta & Saket Keshri<br />
Divine Solitaires announced the launch of an exciting solitaire<br />
jewellery exhibition at the famous Kuldip Sons Jewellers store<br />
in Ranchi, Jharkhand. Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director,<br />
Divine Solitaires and Rajesh Verma, Managing Director, Kuldip Sons<br />
Jewellerswere present and addressed the members of the press.<br />
The city of Ranchi, being the capital of Jharkhand and one of the<br />
names under the Smart Cities Mission, is home to many from other parts<br />
of the country. Since many years, the city’s local population has shown<br />
a strong inclination towards beautiful jewellery of different kinds and in<br />
various designs. While this is unchanged, the newer population is also<br />
actively developing a taste for diamond and solitaire jewellery. Not only<br />
do they seek the best quality and variety in solitaire jewellery but also<br />
something more in terms of pricing and value.<br />
Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director, Divine Solitaires<br />
said, “We are pleased to be with a brand like Kuldip Sons Jewellers.<br />
Like us, they don’t just believe in providing the best quality to their<br />
customers but also understand how important customer fulfilment is.<br />
This is something that we really look forward to as Divine Solitaires<br />
reaches out to the people of Ranchi through our solitaire jewellery<br />
exhibition at Kuldip Sons Jewellers.<br />
Rajesh Verma, Managing Director, Kuldip Sons Jewellers said, “For<br />
more than two decades, we have been providing high-quality gold and<br />
diamond jewellery to our customers in Ranchi and Jamshedpur. They<br />
love what we have to offer. And with Divine Solitaires, we are sure that<br />
the people here will also enjoy buying solitaires and solitaire jewellery<br />
in beautiful designs.”<br />
Round & About<br />
Retail & e-CommeRCe<br />
Divine Solitaires’ launches<br />
exciting solitaire offer at<br />
Mahabir Danwar Jewellers<br />
Divine Solitaires is pleased to announce the launch<br />
of its exciting solitaire jewellery exhibition at the<br />
reputed Mahabir Danwar Jewellers store in Salt Lake,<br />
Kolkata. Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director,<br />
Divine Solitaires, Arvind Soni, Director, Mahabir<br />
Danwar Jewellers and Sandeep Soni, Director, Mahabir<br />
Danwar Jewellers, interacted with the press at the<br />
event. Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director,<br />
Divine Solitaires said, “It’s great to be working with a<br />
label like Mahabir Danwar Jewellers. They value their<br />
customers and have been giving them the best quality<br />
for years now. Like them, Divine Solitaires, too, believes<br />
customer satisfaction is paramount. We really want the<br />
people of Kolkata to get the best out of this solitaire<br />
jewellery exhibition at Mahabir Danwar Jewellers.<br />
Arvind Soni, Director, Mahabir Danwar Jewellers<br />
said, “For close to forty years, we have been offering<br />
high-quality handcrafted gold, diamond, Kundan<br />
jewellery and more to our customers in Kolkata. We<br />
value their patronage and understand how important<br />
their satisfaction is. With Divine Solitaires, we want<br />
to continue offering the best solitaires and solitaire<br />
jewelleryto them in a range of beautiful designs.”<br />
Sandeep Soni, Director, Mahabir Danwar Jewellers<br />
said, “Our customers have always been pleased with<br />
our service and quality. In so many years, we have come<br />
to understand what they want in terms of design and<br />
quality. Through the solitaire exhibition from Divine<br />
Solitaires, we are sure that they will find the quality<br />
they want.”<br />
(L-R) Vijay Soni, Jignesh Mehta & Arvind Soni<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 55
The Big STory<br />
Coronavirus’ Impact on the Global G&J Trade<br />
G&J Trade Loses<br />
Momentum, Thanks<br />
to Coronavirus<br />
56 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
The Big STory<br />
Hong Kong is where the East meets West. It has been a<br />
melting pot of cultures, where many luxury brands have<br />
found their safety nets. There is nothing in Hong Kong you<br />
won’t find, including beautifully designed jewels, gemstones<br />
in variegated colours and of course diamonds. However,<br />
in the past few months, the city has been awash with<br />
crises. Following the antigovernment protests, the dreaded<br />
coronavirus is not just harming people, it is taking the<br />
flourish out of HK’s economy. A usually packed Kowloon is<br />
now deserted, as offices and factories remain closed. What’s<br />
more problematic in all this is the effect all of this is having<br />
on the Indian G&J trade reports Diamond World<br />
China is a nucleus in the global<br />
economy. It is a manufacturing<br />
centre that contributes almost<br />
16 per cent to the global gross domestic<br />
product. Hence, when the country is<br />
being overrun by a super-spreader like<br />
coronavirus, certain amount of collateral<br />
damage was expected. And Hong Kong,<br />
one of the main centres for gems and<br />
jewellery globally, is not too far away<br />
from Wuhan, the city where this dreadful<br />
virus first germinated. About 3350<br />
manufacturing companies import and<br />
export precious jewellery in Hong Kong.<br />
The outbreak has left the jewellery<br />
industry in a state of frenzy. In Hong<br />
Kong, more than 15 cases have been<br />
reported so far. The Hong Kong<br />
International Diamond, Gem & Pearl<br />
Show, one of the most important events<br />
for the gems and jewellery industry<br />
has been postponed. HKTDC stated<br />
that the show which was originally<br />
scheduled March 4 – 8 at the Hong<br />
Kong Convention Centre and the<br />
International Diamond, Gem & Pearl<br />
Show scheduled March 2 – 6 at<br />
AsiaWorld-Expo, will be postponed to<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 57
The Big STory<br />
We all acknowledge<br />
the great importance<br />
of Hong Kong and<br />
Mainland China for<br />
the global diamond<br />
and jewellery trade.<br />
The long term effect<br />
of the coronavirus<br />
will be measured in<br />
time. However, for the<br />
time being, given the<br />
current situation there<br />
was no other option<br />
than rescheduling the<br />
Hong Kong trade show.<br />
Hopefully the situation<br />
will be resolved very<br />
soon and we can all<br />
go back to business as<br />
usual<br />
Shai Schnitzer,<br />
S.Schnitzer Diamonds<br />
May 18 - 21 at the same venue.<br />
Months of preparation ahead of<br />
the show has been put to test with the<br />
decision of postponing the show, as<br />
many stakeholders believe that the new<br />
timing of the show may not be fruitful<br />
after all. It does seem like Hong Kong<br />
has been jinxed, with issues cropping<br />
up one after the other, first the protests<br />
and now the deadly virus. The prodemocracy<br />
protests proved a headache<br />
to the entire gems and jewellery<br />
industry, especially India, which<br />
exports a third of its diamonds to Hong<br />
Kong. Ahead of Chinese New Year<br />
and Christmas, both very important<br />
events in HK, the protests presented<br />
a challenge, stunting the Chinese<br />
economy to a large extent. A report<br />
by Reuters suggested that the Hong<br />
Kong government has shut 10 border<br />
checkpoints with mainland China but<br />
stopped short of a complete closure.<br />
The city which is full of opportunities,<br />
always buzzing with activity is now fear<br />
stricken with a weak morale, because<br />
it is braving political, social and<br />
economic problems at the same time.<br />
Global Impact<br />
Retailers and manufacturers in<br />
Mainland China have closed down<br />
indefinitely and Hong Kong too<br />
declared a holiday till the first week<br />
of March. The mass shutdown to curb<br />
the spread of the virus has resulted in<br />
a massive supply chain distress. The<br />
concern for everybody in the industry is<br />
that the pandemic is yet to be contained,<br />
and its impact both domestically and<br />
internationally will be felt for a long<br />
time, as tourism will be hit hard. “We<br />
58 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
The Big STory<br />
all acknowledge the great importance<br />
of Hong Kong and Mainland China for<br />
the global diamond and jewellery trade.<br />
The long term effect of the coronavirus<br />
will be measured in time. However,<br />
for the time being, given the current<br />
situation there was no other option<br />
than rescheduling the Hong Kong trade<br />
show. Hopefully the situation will be<br />
resolved very soon and we can all go<br />
back to business as usual,” said Shai<br />
Schnitzer of S.Schnitzer Diamonds.<br />
China is an important economic<br />
centre for various trades and more than<br />
17,000 people have been affected by<br />
the outbreak, causing trades across<br />
all sectors to come to a standstill.<br />
“It is unfortunate but expected. Our<br />
industry will be greatly affected as<br />
the busy season really begins after the<br />
Chinese New Year holidays. Now with<br />
the postponement of the show and with<br />
more countries imposing travel bans on<br />
people travelling to and from HK, sales<br />
will be affected without a doubt. And<br />
with Chinese authorities asking many<br />
factories to delay opening, production<br />
of HK companies who have factories in<br />
China, will be halted, but expenses will<br />
still continue,” said Manoj P. Butani of<br />
Butani Jewellery, Hong Kong.<br />
The newly announced dates of the<br />
Hong Kong show also seems a little<br />
tricky and whether it will attract enough<br />
visitors or not is now in question as it<br />
falls right after Basel and just before<br />
JCK, add to that the fact that it falls<br />
after the Ramadan season. “We can<br />
only hope by then that the virus has<br />
been tackled but it remains to be seen<br />
whether customers will be will be<br />
willing to travel to HK so soon after,”<br />
adds Butani.<br />
In its statement, HKTDC said, “the<br />
safety of exhibitors and buyers has<br />
always been a priority for the HKTDC.<br />
In line with the measures taken by the<br />
Hong Kong SAR Government against<br />
the spread of the novel coronavirus, and<br />
after consultation with representatives<br />
of the jewellery industry, the HKTDC<br />
will reschedule its HKTDC Hong Kong<br />
International Diamond, Gem & Pearl<br />
Show <strong>2020</strong> (originally scheduled for<br />
2-6 March) and the HKTDC Hong Kong<br />
International Jewellery Show <strong>2020</strong><br />
(originally scheduled for 4-8 March) to<br />
18-21 May <strong>2020</strong>.”<br />
The virus first emerged in Wuhan, a<br />
city in central China, in late December<br />
and has killed more than 360 people<br />
in Mainland China. Over 20 countries<br />
have reported around 140 cases and all<br />
It is unfortunate<br />
but expected. Our<br />
industry will be<br />
greatly affected as<br />
the busy season<br />
really begins after<br />
the Chinese New Year<br />
holidays. Now with the<br />
postponement of the<br />
show and with more<br />
countries imposing<br />
travel bans on people<br />
travelling to and<br />
from HK, sales will<br />
be affected without<br />
a doubt. And with<br />
Chinese authorities<br />
asking many factories<br />
to delay opening,<br />
production of HK<br />
companies who have<br />
factories in China,<br />
will be halted, but<br />
expenses will still<br />
continue<br />
Manoj P. Butani,<br />
Butani Jewellery<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 59
The Big STory<br />
I think it is a disaster for<br />
the diamond industry.<br />
If this situation does not<br />
come under control, then<br />
the financial situation<br />
would be worst for the<br />
diamond industry. We have<br />
to gather and unite and<br />
solve the problem as soon<br />
as possible<br />
rashmin Donda,<br />
Rainbow Gems<br />
We are currently<br />
negotiating with the<br />
exhibition organizers<br />
regarding cancellations<br />
and registration changes.<br />
As of today, there has<br />
been no harm to the<br />
diamond export growth<br />
forecast due to the effects<br />
of the coronavirus<br />
eran Zini, MD, Israel<br />
Diamond Exchange<br />
major airlines temporarily suspended<br />
their flight service to China. “I think<br />
it is a big disaster for the diamond<br />
industry. If this situation does not<br />
come under control, then the financial<br />
situation would be worst for the<br />
diamond industry. We have to gather<br />
and unite and solve the problem as<br />
soon as possible,” said Rashmin Donda<br />
of Rainbow Gems, Hong Kong.<br />
“Not much to say. Hong Kong has<br />
been jinxed. Back to back negativity.<br />
We’re all just praying and hoping for<br />
everyone’s health and safety. Business<br />
will bounce back after all this turmoil,<br />
that’s for sure. Just need to pass and<br />
survive through such bad times,” said<br />
Harsh Maheshwari of Kunming Trading<br />
Company. Some even believe if the<br />
decision to postpone the show to May<br />
was in haste as the extent of the virus<br />
and whether or not it will be kept under<br />
control by March is still not clear.<br />
“We are currently negotiating with<br />
the exhibition organizers regarding<br />
cancellations and registration changes.<br />
As of today, there has been no harm<br />
to the diamond export growth forecast<br />
due to the effects of the coronavirus,”<br />
said Eran Zini, MD, Israel Diamond<br />
Exchange.<br />
Luxury brands have been affected<br />
the most, with consumers keeping away<br />
from stores. The effect on the demand<br />
for luxury goods is not negligible. Many<br />
reports suggest that the sales have<br />
been hit harder than last year’s antigovernment<br />
protests. “Postponing the<br />
show seems to be deferring the decision<br />
of cancelling the show as the impact<br />
60 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
The Big STory<br />
of the virus is not yet fully assessed.<br />
It will impact the business heavily in<br />
all industries across the board. As<br />
people will refrain from travelling and<br />
every one would be looking forward<br />
to assessing the actual impact of the<br />
same,” said Sanjay Phophaliya of Indus<br />
Jewellery. The virus is leaving a major<br />
strain on the global macroeconomic<br />
affairs and no one knows when the<br />
epidemic will be contained and when<br />
things would get back to normalcy.<br />
Fear looms in Surat<br />
Almost 300 diamond and gems and<br />
jewellery companies participate in the<br />
HK show every year. Thousands of<br />
buyers who attend the show drive the<br />
business of these Indian companies.<br />
Surat, which is the cutting and<br />
polishing hub of India, is set to lose<br />
Rs 8,000 crore in the next couple of<br />
months, leading to a 20 per cent drop<br />
in exports because of the impact of the<br />
outbreak.<br />
All of our major<br />
buyers are from the<br />
Far East. With the<br />
onset of the virus, we<br />
are going to lose out<br />
on business for sure.<br />
I foresee an 8-10 per<br />
cent dip in the exports<br />
in the first quarter and<br />
I don’t see the virus<br />
fading away anytime<br />
soon. The effect of<br />
the virus will be there<br />
till June. The show<br />
being postponed is<br />
also not a good thing.<br />
I don’t know how<br />
effective it will be as<br />
it is coinciding with<br />
Basel and JCK. We<br />
need to focus on other<br />
markets like Europe,<br />
U.S. and Middle East<br />
to make up for the lost<br />
business<br />
Vipul Shah, Asian<br />
Star<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 61
The Big STory<br />
It was an eventuality, the show<br />
either had to be postponed<br />
or cancelled. Around 30 per<br />
cent of our goods get exported<br />
to the Far East and now with<br />
the impact of the virus, we<br />
will definitely be losing some<br />
amount of business. Hong<br />
Kong has cordoned off its<br />
borders and even if someone<br />
wants to buy goods, they can’t<br />
Ankit Shah, Ankit Gems<br />
There will be an impact for<br />
sure on the diamond industry;<br />
however, health is of foremost<br />
concern. People who have gone<br />
to villages for the holidays are<br />
not in a position to come back<br />
to Hong Kong and resume<br />
work. The Shanghai Diamond<br />
Exchange has announced<br />
that work will be resumed in<br />
February first week. So, we will<br />
have to wait and see<br />
Vipul Sutaria,<br />
Dharmanandan Diamonds<br />
Every year, Rs 50,000 crore worth<br />
of polished diamonds are exported to<br />
Hong Kong amounting to 37 per cent<br />
of total polished diamond exports. As<br />
Hong Kong has declared a month long<br />
holiday, Indian diamond traders who<br />
have offices in Hong Kong are coming<br />
back to India.<br />
“There will be an impact for sure on<br />
the diamond industry; however, health<br />
is of foremost concern. People who have<br />
gone to villages for the holidays are not<br />
in a position to come back to Hong<br />
Kong and resume work. The Shanghai<br />
Diamond Exchange has announced that<br />
work will be resumed in February first<br />
week. So, we will have to wait and see,”<br />
said Vipul Sutaria of Dharmanandan<br />
Diamonds.<br />
Several orders are placed ahead of<br />
the Hong Kong show and it is also a<br />
place where manufacturers get to know<br />
the pulse of the market and what the<br />
demand is like. “It was an eventuality,<br />
the show either had to be postponed or<br />
cancelled. Around 30 per cent of our<br />
goods get exported to the Far East and<br />
now with the impact of the virus, we<br />
will definitely be losing some amount of<br />
business. Hong Kong has cordoned off<br />
its borders and even if someone wants<br />
to buy goods, they can’t,” said Ankit<br />
Shah of Ankit Gems.<br />
The Indian trade was expecting a<br />
relief and a spike in exports after the<br />
U.S. China trade treaty. However, with<br />
the sudden outbreak of the virus, first<br />
quarter is not going to fair well. “All<br />
of our major buyers are from the Far<br />
East. With the onset of the virus, we are<br />
going to lose out on business for sure.<br />
I foresee an 8-10 per cent dip in the<br />
62 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
The Big STory<br />
exports in the first quarter and I don’t<br />
see the virus fading away anytime soon.<br />
The effect of the virus will be there<br />
till June. The show being postponed is<br />
also not a good thing. I don’t know how<br />
effective it will be as it is coinciding<br />
with Basel and JCK. We need to focus<br />
on other markets like Europe, U.S. and<br />
Middle East to make up for the lost<br />
business,” said Vipul Shah of Asian<br />
Star.<br />
The other problem lies in the pricing<br />
of cut and polished diamonds. If the<br />
problem persists, the prices of polished<br />
diamonds will not increase resulting in<br />
the squeezing of the margins. No one<br />
knows when the virus will be contained,<br />
till such time, it is standstill mode for<br />
the industry.<br />
Postponing the show seems<br />
to be deferring the decision<br />
of cancelling the show as the<br />
impact of the virus is not yet<br />
fully assessed. It will impact<br />
the business heavily in all<br />
industries across the board.<br />
As people will refrain from<br />
travelling and every one<br />
would be looking forward to<br />
assessing the actual impact of<br />
the same<br />
Sanjay Phophaliya, Indus<br />
Jewellery<br />
Not much to say. Hong Kong<br />
has been jinxed. Back to<br />
back negativity. We’re all<br />
just praying and hoping for<br />
everyone’s health and safety.<br />
Business will bounce back<br />
after all this turmoil, that’s<br />
for sure. Just need to pass<br />
and survive through such bad<br />
times<br />
harsh Maheshwari,<br />
Kunming Trading Company<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 63
Trade Fair<br />
IIJS Signature <strong>2020</strong><br />
Diamond Jewellery<br />
witnesses good demand<br />
With the wedding season coming to a close, the show floor was<br />
filled with buyers who were in serious business mode, looking to<br />
buy small ticket items in diamonds. Demand for heavy diamond<br />
jewellery is on its way out<br />
Karshev Jewellery<br />
Wondercuts<br />
The 13th edition of IIJS<br />
Signature was inaugurated<br />
with the organisers, The Gem<br />
& Jewellery Export Promotion Council<br />
(GJEPC), expressing the confidence<br />
that the Indian G&J industry was<br />
successfully navigating its way forward<br />
in the face of many external challenges.<br />
Cutting the ribbon to mark the<br />
formal inauguration of the event that<br />
is being held at the Bombay Exhibition<br />
Centre in Mumbai from February 13-<br />
16, Hon’ble Minister for Industries and<br />
Mining, Government of Maharashtra,<br />
Subhash Desai expressed the support<br />
and best wishes of the government to<br />
the industry.<br />
“IIJS Signature has received a good<br />
response with over 700 exhibitors<br />
occupying 1,300 booths and nearly<br />
12,000 pre-registered visitors,” said<br />
GJEPC Chairman Pramod Kumar<br />
Agrawal while addressing the inaugural<br />
function.<br />
In conjunction with IIJS Signature,<br />
the India Gem & Jewellery Machinery<br />
Expo (IGJME), is also being held at the<br />
same venue, where international and<br />
domestic manufacturers of machinery<br />
and related services and accessories,<br />
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Trade Fair<br />
Inauguration ceremony with council members<br />
will be showcasing their offerings.<br />
Agrawal listed out some of the<br />
projects initiated by the GJEPC, with<br />
support from the Ministry of Commerce<br />
and the Ministry of Finance, including<br />
the setting up of common facility<br />
centres (CFCs) and design institutes,<br />
as well as the plans for Jewellery<br />
Parks, SNZs, a Gem Bourse and Model<br />
Workshops, which were at various<br />
stages of development.<br />
Vice Chairman Colin Shah also<br />
pointed out that the GJEPC had taken a<br />
number of steps to overcome the credit<br />
crunch faced in the last couple of years<br />
by working with the banks through<br />
a Coordination Committee and other<br />
platforms. Shah said that the green<br />
shoots of a recovery after the slowdown<br />
of last year were already being seen<br />
with exports of silver jewellery and lab<br />
grown diamonds registering significant<br />
growth. Expressing the confidence that<br />
for most other verticals, “the worst was<br />
over”, he added that the Council was<br />
very hopeful that the situation would<br />
improve in the second half of the<br />
current year.<br />
Briefly referring to the launch of two<br />
new shows scheduled over the next<br />
couple of months, the International Gem<br />
& Jewellery Show (IGJS) in Jaipur and<br />
the Mega Shopping Festival planned<br />
for Ahmedabad and Bengaluru, the<br />
Council officials said that these would<br />
provide a further boost to exports.<br />
They complement the IIJS shows<br />
that were already being held twice a<br />
year, as well as the India Pavilions at<br />
international shows across the world,<br />
and the numerous buyer-seller meets<br />
that were organised in India and abroad,<br />
both Agrawal and Shah explained.<br />
“IIJS caters to the local retailers<br />
and also attracts a number of overseas<br />
retailers, mainly NRIs from across the<br />
world, who cater to the Indian diaspora<br />
in their respective countries,” Shah<br />
elaborated. “On the other hand, we<br />
have consistently reached out to other<br />
international buyers with product<br />
lines suited to the needs of their local<br />
clientele, through both the India<br />
Pavilions and BSMS. The IGJS aims to<br />
boost interaction with this segment of<br />
the global market, and we are carefully<br />
curating lists of selected buyers who<br />
are being invited to participate.”<br />
Elaborating on the Mega Shopping<br />
Festival, Agrawal said that the<br />
concept had been presented by the<br />
Hon’ble Minister of Finance, Nirmala<br />
Sitharaman as one of the steps to boost<br />
Indian exports in various categories and<br />
promote Make in India merchandise.<br />
“The Festival is being organised on<br />
behalf of the ministry by the ITPO,<br />
and the respective Export Promotion<br />
Councils are being associated with<br />
them. Every Indian mission across<br />
the world is publicising the show to<br />
potential visitors, and we hope that not<br />
only will it provide an immediate boost,<br />
but that it will also grow significantly in<br />
the years to come.”<br />
This time GJEPC had also introduced<br />
a special Crafts Pavilion to showcase<br />
India’s traditional jewellery making<br />
crafts, with the aim of helping to revive,<br />
modernise and eventually market<br />
these localised art forms. There were<br />
eye catching ornaments and gift items<br />
with complex designs and intricate<br />
detailing including handcrafted<br />
Temple Jewellery from Nagercoil in<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 65
Trade Fair<br />
Tamil Nadu, the Art of Bidri, native<br />
to Bidar in Karnataka and the delicate<br />
craftsmanship of Silver Filigree in<br />
Karimnagar district in Telangana.<br />
Also part of the show was the exclusive<br />
Signature Club which included<br />
exhibitors like Kantilal Chhotalal,<br />
KGK Jewellery, Tanvirkumar & Co,<br />
Jewelkraft Creations Pvt. and more.<br />
The exhibitors showcased an array of<br />
collections from bridal to modern and<br />
light weight pieces. Hall 6 also had a<br />
special section for women jewellery<br />
entrepreneurs on one side as well as a<br />
section for jewellery designers on the<br />
other, who presented their exclusive<br />
creations to the visitors.<br />
exhibitor Speaks<br />
The show was<br />
slow and our old<br />
clients didn’t turn<br />
up. However, we<br />
managed to garner<br />
new business.<br />
We met 2-3 new<br />
clients who showed interest and<br />
they were quality buyers.<br />
Toshiba Jariwala, Zundaa<br />
Overall the show<br />
had low footfall as<br />
compared to last<br />
year but those who<br />
came did good<br />
business. New<br />
leads were fewer<br />
than last year too.<br />
Sumit Kamalia, Uma Ornaments<br />
The show was<br />
amazing. We got<br />
the chance to<br />
renew our old<br />
relationships and<br />
make new ones.<br />
It was a fantastic<br />
platform for relationship<br />
building. We garnered new<br />
businesses and only quality<br />
buyers walked in. One feedback I<br />
have is that they should keep the<br />
last day as Monday, because on a<br />
Sunday we get a lot of business.<br />
As Sunday was the last day,<br />
people were packing up early, but<br />
buyers were still coming in.<br />
Nirav Taswala, Peacemoon<br />
Traders<br />
Consumer preferences are constantly evolving<br />
and the IIJS Signature trade show has helped the<br />
industry by providing the exhibitors a first hand<br />
chance to interact with thousands of buyers from<br />
all across the globe and to keep track of their<br />
dynamic preferences.<br />
Poonam Kothari, Achal Jewels<br />
Footfall was low. But<br />
since we specialize<br />
in fancy colour<br />
diamonds, this show<br />
has always been<br />
about educating<br />
the buyer about our<br />
product portfolio and pricing. We<br />
were able to make the buyers aware<br />
that we have a nice product category,<br />
and so this is also an option other<br />
than white diamonds. We were also<br />
able to identify their demand, and<br />
what they are exactly looking for.<br />
darshit Hirani, P.Hirani<br />
The response was<br />
pretty decent, nothing<br />
extraordinary.<br />
However, we had a<br />
number in mind and<br />
we came close to it<br />
so we are happy. The<br />
first two days buyers were focused on<br />
gold, but the last couple of days they<br />
were seriously looking to buy diamond<br />
jewellery. They were looking for<br />
something fresh, and pieces that are<br />
not found in the market and we were<br />
able to offer them the same.<br />
anuj Chatterjee, Saunay Jewels<br />
The footfall<br />
was less but<br />
the people who<br />
came in where<br />
in serious<br />
buying mode.<br />
Even though<br />
the walkins were lesser than last<br />
year, those who came were quality<br />
buyers with good enquiries. Since<br />
the wedding season is ending,<br />
buyers were looking at light<br />
weight diamond jewellery for<br />
Gudipadwa and Akshaya Tritiya.<br />
Hardik Shah, BR Designs<br />
The show was<br />
very good for us.<br />
We participate<br />
in IIJS Signature<br />
because this is<br />
where serious<br />
business<br />
happens. We got very<br />
good enquiries. People are<br />
increasingly leaning towards<br />
smaller ticket items. Demand<br />
for large diamond necklaces and<br />
heavy pieces is gone.<br />
Viral Kothari, Kosha Fine Jewels<br />
66 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Show RepoRt<br />
Antwerp Diamond Market<br />
Antwerp Indicates<br />
Winds of Change<br />
Antwerp has and will always be one of the most important centers<br />
for diamonds in the world. Global volatility has affected the<br />
market in Antwerp, however, players here believe that market<br />
consolidation is well on its way and good service and exclusivity<br />
are key factors for both success and survival finds out Gunjan Jain<br />
68 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Show RepoRt<br />
We are mainly manufacturing 90 pointers to 30 cts.<br />
Our production is back on track since December<br />
2019. KGK today is one of the major manufacturers<br />
for big size stones in the global market and recently<br />
we have made a one price policy for all our<br />
polish sales. This will make it easier for<br />
small and mid size traders to source<br />
from KGK and will also help us to<br />
increase our presence in the market.<br />
The pricing of diamonds has been<br />
stable in the past 2-3 months and<br />
U.S. and China are doing well. The<br />
recent developments in China might give<br />
a push back but only time will tell. There is<br />
definitely a consolidation in the market and that is<br />
good and will be healthy for the future. Companies<br />
will be able to make some profits and grow<br />
hasmukh Ramani, KGK Diamonds<br />
I<br />
have been visiting Antwerp<br />
every January in the last few<br />
years and the fact that it is the<br />
only diamond centre in the world,<br />
which is a perfect blend of rough<br />
and polished diamonds has not<br />
changed. Winter thronged the streets<br />
of the Diamond District, dotted<br />
with hundreds of offices and people<br />
walking in and out from one office to<br />
the other.<br />
The business is bad, no doubt, as<br />
is the case globally, but for Antwerp,<br />
the fact that the city is well connected<br />
to global markets with Indians and<br />
Jews working together is and has<br />
always been a major plus point.<br />
After interacting with many<br />
players, one thing that is apparent<br />
is that with every passing year,<br />
the market is getting majorly<br />
consolidated, where the bigger<br />
companies are getting bigger and<br />
the monopoly is falling in the hands<br />
of a few companies. To maintain<br />
a steady turnover and to run the<br />
operational costs and other expenses<br />
is something the smaller companies<br />
are finding difficult. Larger players<br />
are able to do this because they have<br />
the support of their global networks,<br />
financial management and big teams.<br />
The rough is strong in terms<br />
of prices and Antwerp was full<br />
of manufacturers from Surat and<br />
Navsari actively buying. They were<br />
hopping in and out of offices, fishing<br />
through parcels. The reason behind<br />
the activity is the low supply of<br />
roughs in the last quarter. January’s<br />
DTC sight goods came in on the day<br />
I arrived, late January.<br />
The market is going through many<br />
changes and the climate is lukewarm<br />
for sure, but the demand is driven by<br />
multiple factors. Here’s what some of<br />
the players had to say:<br />
We have been in the business<br />
for 25 years now. We were<br />
originally a rough trading<br />
company but now we do<br />
more of polished goods. We<br />
sell both online and offline<br />
and we are also into jewellery<br />
manufacturing. Business is<br />
getting tough every year, but<br />
there is demand for polish<br />
diamonds and to make<br />
profits, one needs to be very<br />
dynamic. One has to adapt<br />
to the changes, otherwise<br />
there is no question of<br />
existence. My core focus is<br />
the European market and<br />
the jewellers here. There is<br />
potential and the retailers<br />
need good service, hence<br />
we source precise goods<br />
for them. Service is key to<br />
success today. They don’t<br />
mind paying 1 – 2 per cent<br />
extra but they want prompt<br />
service and desired goods. I<br />
buy diamonds from India and<br />
process them based on my<br />
clients’ requirements. Sales<br />
is not an issue but we need to<br />
promote generic diamonds to<br />
the future generations to keep<br />
our business flourishing<br />
Alain Zlayet, Zlayet and Sons<br />
Diamonds BVBA<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 69
Show RepoRt<br />
We are buying agents for<br />
American manufacturers and<br />
jewellery brands. Service is<br />
the main thing and they trust<br />
us and our expertise to source<br />
diamonds in Antwerp. We do<br />
all the buying on their behalf.<br />
The competition in business<br />
is increasing year by year but<br />
these buyers need a variety<br />
of products which one<br />
single manufacturer<br />
cannot supply.<br />
This is where we<br />
come into the<br />
picture and<br />
we source<br />
commercial<br />
quality goods for<br />
them in reasonable<br />
prices from top<br />
manufacturers, assort and<br />
provide it to them. Now we are<br />
also planning to participate in<br />
various trade events, through<br />
which we will get in touch<br />
with new retailers and buyers<br />
and grow the business further.<br />
I am based here and my father<br />
in Tel Aviv. We have access to<br />
all the best possible goods in<br />
the market<br />
Ayelet Lerner, Lerner<br />
Diamonds<br />
We had a very good 2019 at IGI, our numbers<br />
were up compared to last year, considering how<br />
challenging it was. Globally, there<br />
have been a lot of changes and<br />
this is because of political<br />
reasons. Hong Kong has<br />
been very difficult and it is<br />
the only place where our<br />
numbers were low. The<br />
dispute between different<br />
countries regarding import duties<br />
is also an issue but this should settle<br />
soon. Lab-grown diamonds can be positive for<br />
the market. It is here and going to stay and it will<br />
attract younger people who can’t afford natural<br />
diamonds or are intimidated by it. However, later<br />
in their life, when they get engaged, they will<br />
prefer natural diamonds<br />
Roland Lorie, IGI<br />
We deal in gemstones of high quality. We source sapphires<br />
from Kashmir, emeralds from Colombia and Zambia<br />
and rubies from Burma and Mozambique. We are only<br />
dealing with higher level clients right now because<br />
the commercial market is very quiet at the moment.<br />
Prices of diamonds are going down. Even in auctions,<br />
gemstones are garnering more prices. So, investors are<br />
looking at buying certified high quality gemstones<br />
oded Shapiro, Shapiro Gems<br />
70 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Show RepoRt<br />
We have been in this business since 2001. We are dealing in<br />
large white diamonds and fancy colour diamonds like blue,<br />
pink, green and yellow.<br />
We also deal in exclusive gemstones like<br />
Burmese rubies, Kashmir, Burmese and Ceylon<br />
sapphires and Colombian emeralds.<br />
We create bespoke jewellery pieces for<br />
clients around the world as well. Over<br />
the past 3 years, we have seen both a<br />
transition in the way business is done as well<br />
as the availability of capital. Early recognition<br />
and adaptability has given us a first mover<br />
advantage with an offering and global clientele that is truly<br />
differentiated. In <strong>2020</strong>, looking at the current global situation<br />
we plan to remain balanced in our approach - lending credit to<br />
select relationship clients, focusing on certain less competitive<br />
business segments, and offering differentiated products. We<br />
don’t want to be everything to everyone. we are confident that<br />
through hard work, determination and focused approach we<br />
will continue to run a successful business.<br />
Chaitanya Vanjara, Sunview<br />
We try to be an all rounder company. We provide<br />
rounds, fancy shapes, fancy colours from small<br />
to big, certified by GIA & HRD. Our specialty<br />
includes baguettes, emerald cuts, tapers<br />
in all sizes in layouts or parcels. We are<br />
a one-stop-shop for a customer. Times<br />
are tough but we are trying to help our<br />
customers as much as we can in terms of price<br />
and service. We have always been service oriented<br />
pascal Szwarcenberg, Rubin & Zonen<br />
We deal in all kinds of<br />
goods from 0.5 point all<br />
the way up to 50-100 cts.<br />
But mostly we provide<br />
commercial variety, H<br />
and down - price oriented<br />
goods. We know exactly<br />
what the market wants.<br />
We have the right goods<br />
and we understand the<br />
kind of service they want.<br />
It is easy for customers<br />
to work with us as we<br />
are very flexible with<br />
our services. <strong>2020</strong> has<br />
been a good start for<br />
Anita Diamonds, a lot<br />
of demand from many<br />
new markets. We are also<br />
very careful about the<br />
prices, which is why we<br />
are getting business. With<br />
right prices, it is easy for<br />
customers to have the<br />
right margins to survive in<br />
the business. There is no<br />
shortage in the market, if<br />
you have the right goods<br />
in the right prices, you<br />
can do well<br />
Chirag Shah, Anita<br />
Diamonds BVBA<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 71
Hot off tHe Press<br />
<strong>DW</strong>’s Fav<br />
New stores, jewellery, trends, appointments & more<br />
What? Tiffany’s Temp<br />
Store is the Coolest<br />
1 2<br />
And… The doors open to The Tiffany<br />
Flagship Next Door, marking the beginning<br />
of Tiffany & Co.’s journey to transform<br />
its iconic New York flagship store,<br />
which will redefine the modern luxury<br />
experience. Located at the adjacent 6<br />
East 57th Street, this location will serve<br />
as Tiffany’s New York City flagship<br />
store until the transformation of 727<br />
Fifth Avenue is complete in late 2021.<br />
Customers will encounter an atmosphere<br />
that feels familiar, yet refreshed. The store<br />
is designed around a vaulted, escalatorflanked<br />
atrium and retains a playful,<br />
fun look with a modernized attitude.<br />
Combining naïve materials like concrete<br />
and stainless steel with amazing nickel and<br />
Art Deco cases inspired by the original<br />
store. Tiffany brand codes are presented<br />
throughout the store in unexpected ways,<br />
from wood paneling with Tiffany’s Flora<br />
and Fauna motif stenciled onto crates,<br />
to Tiffany’s signature Wheat Leaf motif<br />
reimagined as a ‘Color Block’ painted<br />
feature wall. Each floor offers a unique<br />
visual concept that complements its<br />
contents and embraces the experimental<br />
nature of the space with whimsical nods to<br />
its impermanence.<br />
What? Marc<br />
Hruschka, CEO<br />
& President,<br />
Graff USA<br />
And… Marc Hruschka joins<br />
Graff to take charge of Graff’s<br />
stores in New York, Chicago, San<br />
Francisco, and Miami. He joins<br />
the luxury jewellery brand in its<br />
60th anniversary. Hruschka brings<br />
with him more than 25 years of<br />
experience in various luxury brands<br />
like Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels,<br />
Cartier, Montblanc and Chanel,<br />
John Hardy and Tiffany & Co. He<br />
will be reporting to Francois Graff,<br />
Global CEO.<br />
72 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Hot off tHe Press<br />
What? Rock & Diamonds<br />
by Roberto Coin<br />
3<br />
And… To rock means to be vibrant and alive, to know how to mix grace<br />
with irreverence. Rock and Diamonds is dedicated to those women who<br />
can wear an evening gown with a leather jacket – women who dress in<br />
contradictions and are able to dominate them both with elegance. Roberto<br />
Coin’s rock collection is the first to combine studs of gold and jade with the<br />
pure brilliance of diamonds. The design is meticulous. No coloured stones<br />
or variations in shape are allowed. The same concept is repeated over and<br />
over like a musical motif, sexy when it plays with the sinuousness of the<br />
bracelets and rings and astute in the combination of earrings.<br />
What? Bill Porter<br />
at the Grammy’s<br />
4<br />
And… Billy Porter brought disco style to the<br />
Grammys red carpet donning a jewel-encrusted<br />
spider bracelet that perfectly matched the Pose<br />
star’s sequined teal ensemble. He accessorized<br />
it with over $2 million worth<br />
of Tiffany & Co. diamonds,<br />
including an $11,000<br />
diamond pinky<br />
ring in the<br />
shape of a<br />
disco ball, as<br />
an ode to his<br />
new “disco<br />
era.”<br />
What? WJA’s March<br />
is Me Month<br />
5<br />
And… The Women’s Jewelry Association<br />
(WJA) announced a new, industry-wide<br />
marketing initiative March is Me Month to<br />
align with International Women’s Day, March 8,<br />
<strong>2020</strong>. This annual initiative will be supported<br />
by many of the biggest names in jewellery and<br />
watch manufacturing and retail. The campaign<br />
was developed by over 30 members of WJA<br />
Women’s Executive Leadership Forum, who<br />
initially met in New York City on March 8,<br />
2019. One of the goals developed out of the<br />
meeting included building purposeful and<br />
strong partnerships across the jewellery and<br />
watch industries in order to prepare for the<br />
future of jewellery retail and the rise of the<br />
female self-purchaser.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 73
Trade Fair<br />
Vicenzaoro<br />
Vicenzaoro<br />
January - A<br />
Crowd Pleaser!<br />
Jewellery’s most awaited destination,<br />
Vincenzaoro saw a spectacular success at<br />
its January edition<br />
Interconnections with the world<br />
market, strategic cultural content,<br />
creativity, innovation, training,<br />
design, territory: a total of 1,500<br />
exhibitors, over 35,000 visitors (the<br />
highest number in the last 10 years) and<br />
over 40 events with the participation of<br />
leading jewellery institutions and the<br />
most well-known global brands.<br />
This is the snapshot of VOJ -<br />
Vicenzaoro January <strong>2020</strong> “The<br />
Jewellery Boutique Show®” and<br />
T.GOLD, the international show for<br />
jewellery machinery and technologies<br />
applied to gold and jewellery<br />
78 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Trade Fair<br />
processing, taken on the last day of<br />
the two shows. Running alongside<br />
VOJ and T.GOLD was VO Vintage, the<br />
new exclusive marketplace for vintage<br />
watches and jewellery, which made<br />
its debut, meeting with the satisfied<br />
consent of the traditional public and<br />
the community of enthusiasts and<br />
collectors.<br />
Organized by IEG - Italian Exhibition<br />
Group at the Expo Centre in Vicenza,<br />
the centrality of VOJ20 and T.GOLD<br />
in terms of business and overall<br />
promotional appeal was appreciated<br />
by the global jewellery sector: not only<br />
new ideas and trends in terms of style<br />
and creation by top brands but also<br />
in terms of technological, sales and<br />
distribution services and digitalization.<br />
The increase in the number of visitors<br />
confirmed the positive trend of foreign<br />
incoming from over 126 countries<br />
worldwide, covering an overall 60 per<br />
cent of the total. And Italy’s figure was<br />
also positive, taking on renewed shine<br />
with +12 per cent.<br />
To be precise, the United States<br />
headed the chart of the most represented<br />
foreign states with an extraordinary<br />
+30 per cent compared to 2019. Japan<br />
(+22 per cent) confirmed the growing<br />
interest of the strategic markets for<br />
Made in Italy manufacture, as did the<br />
Middle East (+6per cent overall). Asia<br />
and the Far East recorded +4per cent<br />
combined. The macro-region of Africa<br />
stood at +7 per cent. Russia also began<br />
to increase with +6 per cent.<br />
The number of visitors from Europe,<br />
which amounts to about 50per cent of<br />
the foreign attendance at Vicenzaoro,<br />
was up +9per cent more than the double<br />
figure increase of 2019, with particular<br />
increases from German-speaking<br />
countries. Vicenzaoro, despite market<br />
turbulence, confirmed its appeal for<br />
world traders and its strategic relevance<br />
due to its ability to offer the sector<br />
all types of technological innovation<br />
and design, connect the entire supply<br />
chain, provide inspiration and the tools<br />
to develop business.<br />
The partnerships with ICE – the<br />
Agency that promotes Italian companies<br />
and their internationalization abroad<br />
– and the Ministy of Foreign Affairs<br />
for the “Prima” project, sponsored<br />
by Confindustria Federorafi,<br />
Confartigianato, Confimi Industria<br />
gold and silver division and CNA,<br />
contributed enormously to the success<br />
of the show. Agenzia ICE also promoted<br />
specific activities on the United States’<br />
market which were triggered by 120<br />
B2B meetings at Vicenzaoro between<br />
buyers from large-scale retail in<br />
America and Italian companies, as well<br />
as the presence of start-up companies<br />
through the StartUp & Carats project.<br />
Priority topics for IEG were<br />
sustainability, creativity and innovation,<br />
which opened the calendar of events<br />
with the VISIO.NEXT focus entitled<br />
“The future of jewellery”, which took<br />
place thanks to collaboration with Club<br />
degli Orafi Italy and was attended by<br />
Confindustria Moda and brands of<br />
such calibre as Bulgari, De Beers and<br />
Vhernier. The conference organized<br />
by CJBIO – the World Jewellery<br />
Confederation then took an in-depth<br />
look at the ability of SMEs to introduce<br />
sustainable processes and procedures.<br />
The territory played an essential<br />
role in making the international buyers<br />
happy: the hospitality that the city of<br />
Vicenza reserved for its guests with<br />
VIOFF “The Golden Factor”, the<br />
VicenzaOro Off Show event devised<br />
by Vicenza Council together with<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 79
Trade Fair<br />
IEG and the involvement of economic<br />
categories, received unanimous<br />
approval, upholding the value of<br />
our Italian patrimony of beauty and<br />
know-how as well as putting students<br />
into contact with sector companies at<br />
training encounters and school and<br />
career orientation meetings.<br />
Stephen Lussier, Executive Vice-<br />
President Consumer and Brands at De<br />
Beers Group, who outlined the emerging<br />
trends to watch out for in order to satisfy<br />
the taste of young consumers said, “The<br />
concept of luxury, which once, besides<br />
quality, evoked exclusiveness and<br />
social status” he said, “now continues<br />
to speak of quality but the artisan kind,<br />
one that must inspire inclusiveness and<br />
a social purpose.” The new consumers<br />
want to know that they are contributing<br />
to resolving a problem, not creating<br />
one, even when they buy jewellery.”<br />
The question of sustainability<br />
was dealt with by Eleonora Rizzuto,<br />
Sustainable Development Manager at<br />
Bulgari & LVMH Italia, underlining<br />
how it is not possible to ignore the<br />
coexistence of its three economic,<br />
social and environmental aspects. Hers<br />
was an appeal to explore synergies that<br />
can be generated along the gold and<br />
jewellery production chain, according<br />
to the principle of circular economy.<br />
“Let’s imagine a future made of bridges<br />
able to make different industries<br />
communicate. Jewellery can lead,<br />
for example, to links to the textile or<br />
food industries in the area where it is<br />
produced. It is an optimistic outlook,<br />
and the only one able to see our era<br />
from the perspective of progress.”<br />
For Isabella Traglio, Deputy Director<br />
General Vhernier, the key element for<br />
creating a relevant and contemporary<br />
jewellery item is creativity, the ability<br />
to experiment and allowing ourselves<br />
to be inspired “by what is happening<br />
around us and by observing our<br />
customers but with a more watchful<br />
eye on those who are not. In this way<br />
you can see the trends that are guiding<br />
the new generations’ choices: multifunctionality,<br />
the non-binary choice<br />
that interprets the freedom to be<br />
yourself, recognizability.”<br />
Claudio Marenzi, CEO at Herno<br />
S.p.A. and President of Confindustria<br />
Moda, called for systemization<br />
and invited companies to aim at<br />
sustainability. Remembering the size of<br />
the fashion system, which is the second<br />
largest manufacturing industry in Italy<br />
and represents 44 per cent of the entire<br />
fashion and accessory industry in<br />
Europe, underlined how Made in Italy<br />
boasts numerous virtuous examples<br />
that do not, however, communicate<br />
effectively. “We must put our heads<br />
together to create quality products. We<br />
must aim at beautiful and well done,<br />
at inclusive excellence where the<br />
relationship between value and object<br />
must be long-lasting.”<br />
The next appointments on IEG’s<br />
Jewellery Agenda: OROAREZZO from<br />
18th to 21st April <strong>2020</strong>, Vicenzaoro<br />
September from 5th to 9th September<br />
<strong>2020</strong> and VOD Dubai International<br />
Jewellery Show in the autumn.<br />
80 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
In ConversatIon<br />
Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice<br />
President & Chief Laboratory and<br />
Research Officer<br />
Promoting<br />
Transparency All<br />
the Way<br />
Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice President &<br />
Chief Laboratory and Research Officer speaks to<br />
Diamond World about Diamond Origin Report<br />
and why it is relevant given the current context<br />
and the response it has garnered from the<br />
stakeholders in the diamond value chain<br />
Launched in 2019, the GIA<br />
Diamond Origin Report uses<br />
scientific evaluation to match a<br />
polished diamond to its original rough,<br />
providing confirmation of the origin<br />
information provided by the diamond<br />
mining company. This report includes<br />
information that helps consumers<br />
understand the positive social and<br />
economic impact that mined diamonds<br />
have for the countries and communities<br />
that produce them. As the world<br />
leader in gemological research, GIA is<br />
uniquely able to leverage over 60 years<br />
of scientific knowledge and technology<br />
to deliver the rough-to-polish matching<br />
confirmation for polished stones. GIA<br />
collects data and images for rough<br />
analysis. Once GIA receives the<br />
polished diamond, GIA uses markers<br />
and data identified during the analysis<br />
of the rough to scientifically match the<br />
polished diamond to its original rough,<br />
confirming the diamond’s country of<br />
origin.<br />
What has been the response for<br />
DOR in India?<br />
We’ve received great interest in GIA’s<br />
Diamond Origin Report. Several<br />
diamond and jewellery manufacturers,<br />
wholesalers and retailers have shown<br />
interest in participating in the program.<br />
In the coming months, we see significant<br />
potential for demand for the Diamond<br />
Origin Report in the Indian market.<br />
Why is knowing the origin of<br />
diamonds more relevant and<br />
important today than before?<br />
Traceability is the first step in<br />
sustainability and understanding that a<br />
diamond was mined responsibly. When<br />
you buy a diamond of known origin,<br />
you can understand the positive impact<br />
your purchase has on the development<br />
of that country’s local communities.<br />
You are not only helping people thrive,<br />
but also helping to build infrastructure,<br />
educate young people, and bring health<br />
systems to whole populations.<br />
Consumers today are increasingly<br />
interested in knowing about the origin<br />
of the goods they buy. This is certainly<br />
true for diamonds as well. Another<br />
interesting aspect of today’s consumer<br />
is that they respond well to storytelling.<br />
To be able to tell this story to<br />
consumers, GIA understood that the we<br />
needed to talk about the good diamonds<br />
do in an effective and accurate manner.<br />
Retailers who carry diamonds with GIA<br />
Diamond Origin Reports get Diamond<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 81
In ConversatIon<br />
Origin Books – one for each country of<br />
origin, be it Botswana, Canada, Russia<br />
or South Africa.<br />
The Diamond Origin book for Botswana,<br />
for example, talks about how the<br />
diamond industry has built hospitals,<br />
schools and roads, transforming<br />
Botswana into one of Africa’s most<br />
prosperous countries. Literacy rates<br />
have reached above 80 per cent, and<br />
healthcare and compulsory primary<br />
education are free. Over 90 per cent<br />
of the population has access to clean<br />
drinking water and electricity, and<br />
the country has more than 9,000<br />
kilometres of paved road today. With<br />
approximately 20 per cent of its<br />
population employed by the diamond<br />
industry, Botswana and the diamond<br />
industry have created a middle class<br />
and produced a stable economy.<br />
How is the Diamond Origin report<br />
different from blockchain and<br />
other provenance programs?<br />
The service does not currently utilise<br />
blockchain or other digital tracking<br />
mechanism, but instead relies on GIA’s<br />
matching process. While blockchain<br />
provides a means of logging<br />
transactional data, it requires<br />
meticulous transactional<br />
recording at each step in<br />
the process. As long as the<br />
participants in the chain are<br />
diligent in entering data in the<br />
Blockchain platform, the data<br />
should be reliable.<br />
GIA continues<br />
to explore<br />
enhancing<br />
its service<br />
offerings through<br />
many technologies. GIA continues to<br />
investigate the efficacy of blockchain<br />
and whether it is appropriate for GIA<br />
reports and services, including the<br />
Diamond Origin Report.<br />
Can you tell us how stakeholders<br />
in the diamond value chain<br />
(manufacturers and retailers) be a<br />
part of this program?<br />
The programme is open to the industry.<br />
Interested businesses can contact<br />
us and we will provide them the<br />
information to participate as a diamond<br />
or jewellery manufacturer, wholesaler<br />
or retailer. Currently, there are mine<br />
operators, manufacturers, wholesalers,<br />
and retailers participating in the<br />
programme and the list continues to<br />
grow. GIA maintains a list of<br />
participants on its website to connect<br />
participating miners, manufacturers,<br />
wholesalers and retailers. This ensures<br />
that expertly graded natural diamonds<br />
that have been matched to rough of<br />
know origin reach the end consumer.<br />
Retailers and wholesalers desiring<br />
to purchase and offer diamonds with<br />
origin reports may visit our website,<br />
GIAindia.<br />
in/diamondorigin-report,<br />
to find the<br />
manufacturer<br />
participants<br />
listed there. There’s a good chance that<br />
an existing supplier may already be a<br />
part of the programme. If not, they can<br />
contact GIA and we will work with their<br />
existing polished diamond suppliers to<br />
explain the programme to help them<br />
find the right provider.<br />
In addition, retailers can review<br />
sample collateral and point-of-sale<br />
(POS) materials from GIA to help<br />
them develop an in-store programme.<br />
Retailers can also review training<br />
materials from GIA regarding<br />
communicating and promoting the<br />
programme to consumers. Also,<br />
retailers can register on the free GIA<br />
Retailer Lookup so consumers can find<br />
retailers that carry diamonds with GIA<br />
Diamond Origin Report easily.<br />
The industry today is in a constant<br />
flux - conditions haven’t really<br />
improved over the last few months<br />
and a recent report by Bloomberg<br />
suggests that this lull in the industry<br />
is going to continue for sometime<br />
- do you believe this is true? If so,<br />
where did we go wrong and how do<br />
we redeem ourselves?<br />
It is important to engage in telling the<br />
story of diamonds. Formed billions<br />
of years ago deep within the earth,<br />
diamonds have a fascinating story to<br />
tell about the formation of our planet.<br />
In addition, diamonds have aa positive<br />
in the local mining communities. In<br />
addition, diamond merchants and<br />
jewellers in India support health and<br />
education causes. I believe bringing all<br />
these together and presenting a story<br />
will help generate interest and engage<br />
with consumers.<br />
82 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
IJ AwArds<br />
9th Edition JJS- IJ Jewellers Choice Design Awards<br />
IJ Hosts a Successful<br />
9th Edition of JJS- IJ Jewellers<br />
Choice Design Awards<br />
Indian Jeweller (IJ) hosted a one-of-a-kind glittering award<br />
ceremony the “JJS-IJ Jewellers’ Choice Design Awards 2019”, this<br />
time at the convention centre in JECC<br />
Alok Kala, Publisher, Indian Jeweller<br />
IJ Awards entered its 9th year<br />
and was bigger and better this<br />
year! 24 select participants were<br />
awarded for their outstanding designs<br />
in respective categories<br />
Manufacturers, retailers and<br />
designers from across the country had<br />
submitted their designs under various<br />
categories and price points for review<br />
and selection. The competition required<br />
manufacturers, designers and retailers<br />
to submit their best designs across<br />
21categories. The winning pieces from<br />
over 600 + entries were reviewed and<br />
chosen by an eminent Jury Panel.<br />
The host of the show Sumona<br />
Chakravarthy of the Kapil Sharma show<br />
fame kept the audience in rapt attention<br />
with her quick delivery and wit. Noted<br />
film star Vaani Kapoor was the Chief<br />
Guest for the evening who presented<br />
the awards to the winners. Prominent<br />
people present at the award ceremony<br />
were Nirupa Bhatt, Managing Director<br />
84 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
IJ AwArds<br />
Compere Sumona Chakravarthy<br />
Film Star Vaani Kapoor<br />
of GIA India & Middle East, Rajiv<br />
Jain, Secretary, JJS, Saankar Sen, Vice<br />
Chairman, GJC, Ramesh Narang from<br />
Hazoorilal Legacy and Vijay Khanna<br />
from Khanna Jewellers amongst others.<br />
Alok Kala, Publisher and Editor,<br />
Indian Jeweller said, “Design is of<br />
paramount importance in jewellery<br />
and our objective with this event is<br />
to encourage the design fraternity. As<br />
each year passes by, we only want to<br />
outdo ourselves.”<br />
Comedian Kiku Sharda performing his act<br />
Comedian Kiku Sharda kept<br />
the audience in splits at the show<br />
with his addictive humour. Some of<br />
the prominent winners at the show<br />
were Khurana Jewellery House,<br />
which bagged two awards Pantone<br />
Colour of the Year 2019 and<br />
Statement Jewellery and Birdhichand<br />
Ghanshyamdas, Jaipur for Statement<br />
Jewellery. Tara Fine Jewels won the<br />
award for Heritage Jewellery above Rs<br />
5 Lakhs while Achal Jewels won the<br />
award for Heritage Jewels under Rs<br />
5 Lakhs. Manish Malhotra Jewellery<br />
by Raniwala 1881won the award for<br />
Red Carpet Jewellery & KK Jewels<br />
won the award for Best Accessory.<br />
Manoharlal Jewellers won the award<br />
for Transformative Jewellery. Winners<br />
for Best Cut Gemstone under 10ct was<br />
Jaipur Johri and between 10-20 ct was<br />
Canarys, Jaipur.<br />
The awards night brought<br />
forth a wonderful opportunity for<br />
manufacturers, retailers and designers<br />
of India, to showcase their talent,<br />
creativity and products through its<br />
unique platform. Powered by GIA, the<br />
IJ Awards is presented by JJS. The other<br />
partners include Hari Krishna Group as<br />
Diamond Jewellery Category Partner,<br />
Raniwala 1881 as Heritage Jewellery<br />
Category Partner, Jaipur Ratna by Anuj<br />
Gems & Jewellery as Best Necklace<br />
Design Category Partner, Radhika<br />
Jewels as Temple Jewellery Category<br />
Partner, BVC Logistics as Logistics<br />
Partner, Vasansi Jaipur as Ethnic Wear<br />
Partner, and CNBC Awaaz as Television<br />
Partner while Pema Wellness as the<br />
Wellness Partner and Diamond World<br />
magazine is the Media Partner.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 85
Special Feature<br />
Bridal diamond<br />
jewellery trends<br />
What<br />
Brides<br />
Want?<br />
With the ongoing<br />
wedding season, we<br />
wanted to understand<br />
how diamond jewellery<br />
is fairing across India.<br />
With gold prices<br />
skyrocketing and a shift<br />
in consumer preference,<br />
diamonds are still very<br />
much in vogue, albeit<br />
in a lighter and a much<br />
stylised avatar<br />
From recessions due to<br />
coronavirus to the latest union<br />
budget, a lot has happened<br />
in the first month of this brand new<br />
year. However, the wedding season<br />
is sure to give jewellers some respite,<br />
as diamonds are an integral part of<br />
weddings in India. Perhaps, the way in<br />
which brides were their diamonds has<br />
changed, but the fact of the matter is,<br />
they are very much still a bride’s best<br />
friend. We spoke to jewellers from<br />
North, South, East and West, and here’s<br />
what they had to say about what brides<br />
are looking at this wedding season.<br />
NORTH<br />
It all comes<br />
down to the<br />
illusion<br />
Today, cost effectiveness of<br />
the products matters the<br />
most. People in the north<br />
are opting for pieces that look big<br />
but aren’t necessarily heavy. They<br />
want the appearance of a 10 ct set<br />
which is in reality is a 5 ct one.<br />
“These days, customers are mostly<br />
inclined towards light-weight sets<br />
such as removable pendants that<br />
can be converted into earrings for<br />
later use,” says Akshay Verma of<br />
Verma Jewellers, Solan, Himachal<br />
Pradesh. Tanmaniya Mangalsutras<br />
are trending big time and when it<br />
comes to engagement rings, men prefer<br />
platinum bands or white gold bands<br />
with 30-70 pointers and women prefer<br />
minimum 1 ct in fancy cuts. “After<br />
gold prices shot up, people now prefer<br />
diamond jewellery and the sales have<br />
gone up, earrings, rings, small pendant<br />
sets depending upon the budget. For<br />
gifting, people prefer to spend approx<br />
50k to a lakh,” adds Verma.<br />
After gold prices shot<br />
up, people now prefer<br />
diamond jewellery and<br />
the sales have gone up,<br />
earrings, rings, small<br />
pendant sets depending<br />
upon the budget. For<br />
gifting, people prefer to<br />
spend approx 50k to a<br />
lakh<br />
akshay Verma, Verma<br />
Jewellers<br />
86 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Special Feature<br />
We are easily selling 70<br />
pointer upwards to a carat or<br />
two these days in rings. We<br />
have a conservative market<br />
out here. People prefer<br />
smaller items in gifting such<br />
as studs, smaller earrings<br />
etc. Pendant sets and<br />
bracelets are also popular<br />
styles for gifting<br />
rajnish Verma, Punjab<br />
Jewellers<br />
New-age brides are practical<br />
Brides are bidding goodbye to heavy diamond jewellery, they want practical<br />
pieces. They are going in for larger stones in larger sizes than -2, -4 sizes.<br />
Elaborate sets are also not selling since people prefer simpler sets with<br />
straight lines but with larger stones. Chokers have gone out of style, but necklaces<br />
in general are still in vogue. They are looking for classier stuff, something that<br />
can last them for years. They want pieces that they can carry off for the next 20<br />
years. “Traditional bangles are done and dusted; people are now looking for more<br />
intricate and fancier shapes and designs. Bracelets have become more practical<br />
and versatile to wear. We are easily selling 70 pointer upwards to a carat or two<br />
these days in rings. We have a conservative market out here. People prefer smaller<br />
items in gifting such as studs, earrings, smaller earrings etc. Pendant sets and<br />
bracelets are also popular styles for gifting . Even men prefer bands rather than<br />
big bulky rings. We also have customers asking for diamond jewellery sets with<br />
coloured stones,” adds Rajnish Verma of Punjab Jewellers, Dehradun.<br />
Multipurpose jewellery on the rise<br />
More and more people are<br />
now looking for lightweight<br />
jewellery these<br />
days in diamonds, especially in<br />
smaller stones. The focus is more<br />
on design and fashion rather than<br />
weight. Especially if the customer is<br />
young, they want fashionable pieces<br />
when it comes to bridal jewellery.<br />
Heavy weight jewellery in this time<br />
and age only draws attention from old<br />
people, younger folks prefer sleeker<br />
look for their big day or everyday<br />
accessories. Another jewellery trend<br />
that has become people’s favourite is<br />
multipurpose jewellery. “Brides prefer<br />
diamond earrings, platinum band,<br />
solitaires and light-weight sets these<br />
days. When it comes to gifting, people<br />
prefer gold over diamonds. For men,<br />
platinum sale is on the rise. Colourful<br />
jewellery is another thing people are<br />
opting for along with diamonds,” says<br />
Yogesh Gupta of Lala Purshottam Das<br />
Jewellers.<br />
Brides prefer diamond<br />
earrings, platinum band,<br />
solitaires and lightweight<br />
sets these days.<br />
When it comes to gifting,<br />
people prefer gold over<br />
diamonds<br />
Yogesh Gupta, Lala<br />
Purshottam Das<br />
Jewellers<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 87
Special Feature<br />
SOUTH<br />
Brides love bling<br />
In bridal jewellery, the younger<br />
generation is more into rings, tops,<br />
pendants etc. In the south, long<br />
chains are more in demand especially in a<br />
set with choker, bangles and earrings. Hair<br />
accessories is yet another thing people<br />
like to wear in south Indian weddings<br />
and these days they like the accessory to<br />
be in diamonds instead of gold. “Earlier,<br />
the trend was to buy gold pieces, however,<br />
now the trend is changing and people<br />
are looking forward to buying diamond<br />
jewellery and incorporating one or two<br />
pieces of the same to their bridal looks.<br />
Mid-level customers prefer carat sizes<br />
from .50 to 1 ct and for people with more<br />
disposable income one cannot predict, as<br />
they could buy anything over and above 1<br />
ct ,” says Joy Alukkas of Joyalukkas.<br />
Earlier, the trend was to buy gold<br />
pieces, however, now the trend is<br />
changing and people are looking<br />
forward to buying diamond<br />
jewellery and incorporating<br />
one or two pieces of the same<br />
to their bridal looks. Mid-level<br />
customers prefer carat sizes from<br />
.50 to 1 ct and for people with<br />
more disposable income one<br />
cannot predict, as they could buy<br />
anything over and above 1 ct<br />
Joy alukkas, Joyalukkas<br />
Under 1 ct diamond rings<br />
for the win<br />
The new-age brides in<br />
the south are informed<br />
jewellery buyers. They<br />
always look for wearability, quality<br />
and above all a reflection of their<br />
individual style statement while<br />
buying jewellery. As a result, they<br />
now prefer to include diamond<br />
jewellery in their bridal ensemble.<br />
Lightweight and delicate<br />
necklaces, diamond earrings,<br />
diamond mangalsutra, diamond<br />
rings and diamond bangles are in<br />
the demand at the moment. “We<br />
have witnessed sizeable demand<br />
for diamond necklaces in the<br />
recent past, as they act as a graceful<br />
style statement on the D-Day.<br />
Engagement rings under 1 ct size<br />
are in demand at the moment. As<br />
India is a gold consuming nation,<br />
Light & Breezy<br />
the demand for gold jewellery will<br />
always be there. However, due<br />
to evolving fashion sensibilities,<br />
there is a consumer segment<br />
emerging in the country which<br />
is showing inclination towards<br />
buying diamond jewellery,” says<br />
Ahammed MP of Malabar Gold &<br />
Diamonds.<br />
We have witnessed<br />
sizeable demand for<br />
diamond necklaces in the<br />
recent past, as they act as<br />
a graceful style statement<br />
on the D-Day. Engagement<br />
rings under 1 ct size are in<br />
demand at the moment<br />
ahammed Mp, Malabar<br />
Gold & Diamonds<br />
Southern brides these days prefer smaller jewellery pieces with the<br />
rise in the price of gold. People are spending less these days so<br />
with less budget, they can afford to buy light-weight jewellery.<br />
“Earlier for weddings, consumers would come looking for heavy jewellery<br />
but nowadays they have become extremely confused in buying jewellery.<br />
They don’t spend like earlier. The average budget for a piece of diamond<br />
jewellery is 1 to 2 lakhs and with engagement rings, they prefer buying<br />
50 cent rings ,” adds Varghese Alukka of Jos Alukkas.<br />
Earlier for weddings, consumers would come looking<br />
for heavy jewellery but nowadays they don’t spend<br />
like earlier. The average budget for a piece of diamond<br />
jewellery is 1 to 2 lakhs and with engagement rings, they<br />
prefer buying 50 cent rings<br />
Varghese alukka, Jos Alukkas<br />
88 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Special Feature<br />
WEST<br />
Subtle says it all<br />
Necklaces, especially the<br />
lightweight ones are trending<br />
as far as brides in the west are<br />
concerned. “Precious setting jewellery<br />
has caught the eye of the consumer<br />
where the piece gives the illusion of a<br />
solitaire but isn’t actually a solitaire.<br />
Then there are delusional settings,<br />
which are also gaining popularity,<br />
where the diamond that is set on gold<br />
frame is not seen properly as it merges<br />
with the necklace or sometimes a<br />
dress. These are done for customers<br />
who prefer elegance over flashy pieces<br />
as they want the diamond set to look<br />
subtle,” adds Siddharth Bafna of R C<br />
Bafna Jewellers. Brides also like to<br />
go for multipurpose jewellery these<br />
days, which requires a great deal of<br />
craftsmanship. “Engagement rings sale<br />
generally starts from 40 cents these<br />
days as very few clients come looking<br />
for 1 or 2 ct diamond rings. For gifting<br />
purposes, clients look for charms or<br />
rings. They don’t want to spend on<br />
something traditional when it comes to<br />
gifting,” adds Bafna.<br />
Precious setting<br />
jewellery has caught<br />
the eye of the consumer<br />
where the piece gives<br />
the illusion of a solitaire<br />
but isn’t actually a<br />
solitaire. Then there<br />
are delusional settings,<br />
which are also gaining<br />
popularity, where the<br />
diamond that is set on<br />
gold frame is not seen<br />
properly as it merges<br />
with the necklace or<br />
sometimes a dress<br />
Siddharth Bafna, RC<br />
Bafna Jewellers<br />
Diamonds in<br />
fusion<br />
These days, brides from metros<br />
prefer more coloured stones like<br />
ruby, emerald and sapphire.<br />
“Brides prefer colour stones, however,<br />
fusion diamond jewellery is always a<br />
favourite. Planned purchases include<br />
chokers and necklaces. In engagement<br />
rings, people like to shuffle between 50<br />
cent to 1 ct. Multipurpose jewellery is<br />
also in trend as people want jewellery<br />
that is not heavy and they can wear<br />
it for multiple occasions. They want<br />
something they can wear on a day to day<br />
basis as well,” says Mahesh Jagwani of<br />
Mahesh Notandas Fine Jewellery.<br />
Planned purchases include<br />
chokers and necklaces. In<br />
engagement rings, people<br />
like to shuffle between 50<br />
cent to 1 ct. Multipurpose<br />
jewellery is also in trend as<br />
people want jewellery that is<br />
not heavy and they can wear<br />
it for multiple occasions<br />
Mahesh Jagwani, Mahesh<br />
Notandas Fine Jewellery<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 89
Special Feature<br />
EAST<br />
Diamonds good for gifting<br />
In Kolkata, diamond jewellery is the<br />
most versatile for wedding purpose.<br />
It goes with everything and a bride<br />
can choose anything from a simple<br />
and elegant necklace to a much more<br />
bolder and exquisite piece. These days<br />
even for Christian weddings, diamond<br />
jewellery is preferred. “Buyers mostly<br />
prefer 1-1.5 ct in diamond rings. It is<br />
mostly preferred because it is neither<br />
too small nor too gaudy. Also, lightweight<br />
and multipurpose jewellery is<br />
trending right now. They are also a good<br />
gifting option as it is budget friendly<br />
and stylish. People still gift diamond<br />
jewellery, because it serves as an asset<br />
too. The products depend on the budget<br />
of a buyer. Diamond chains/earrings<br />
are doing well mostly because they<br />
come under all budgets and for all age<br />
groups. Also diamond band rings do<br />
well because as they can be customised<br />
and also are unisex,” says Abhishek<br />
Kajaria of Avama Jewellers.<br />
Buyers mostly prefer<br />
1-1.5 ct in diamond<br />
rings. It is mostly<br />
preferred because it<br />
is neither too small<br />
nor too gaudy. Also,<br />
light-weight and<br />
multipurpose jewellery<br />
is trending right now.<br />
They are also a good<br />
gifting option as it is<br />
budget friendly and<br />
stylish<br />
abhishek Kajaria,<br />
Avama Jewellers.<br />
90 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Special Feature<br />
Accessories<br />
with diamonds<br />
are in<br />
Chokers and diamond<br />
heavy polki necklaces<br />
are moving very fast<br />
this wedding season. For brides,<br />
bracelets and bangles have stopped<br />
being in demand off late. “These<br />
days, brides prefer detachable sets<br />
and those pieces are very high in<br />
demand. For engagement rings,<br />
people like anything between<br />
.70 to 1 ct or 1.5 ct. Men like to<br />
go for solitaire or a simple band.<br />
Nowadays, customised name<br />
button covers and cufflinks set<br />
with diamonds are also trending for<br />
gifting purpose. Pendants, chains<br />
and bracelets are done and dusted<br />
and people are looking for new<br />
things like tie-pins or something<br />
new and fresh to gift,” says Vikash<br />
Soni of L Gopal Jewellers.<br />
Diamond bangles off the radar<br />
“Brides of today are well educated.<br />
They have started taking their own<br />
decision in life so it has become<br />
more imperative for us to provide<br />
them with more trendy and lightweight<br />
jewellery for their everyday purpose,”<br />
says Pintu Agarwal of Panna Diamond<br />
World. A bride doesn’t want to keep her<br />
jewellery in the locker these days; they<br />
want to wear their jewellery on a day to<br />
day basis. “Jewellery below 5-10 lakhs<br />
has become a trend. Smaller stones are<br />
in demand and the bigger shapes are<br />
only restricted to a certain segment of<br />
the society. Bangles have completely<br />
gone off the radar since watches sale<br />
has peaked. Bracelets are something<br />
people prefer to buy in my stores these<br />
days. When it comes to caratage of<br />
engagement rings, people prefer below<br />
10-15 ct. The market has completely<br />
changed and people prefer pieces that<br />
look western. Traditional, Indian pieces<br />
are restricted to a few families these<br />
days,” adds Agarwal.<br />
Smaller stones are<br />
in demand and the<br />
bigger shapes are only<br />
restricted to a certain<br />
segment of the society.<br />
Bangles have completely<br />
gone off the radar since<br />
watches sale has peaked.<br />
Bracelets are something<br />
people prefer to buy in<br />
my stores these days<br />
pintu agarwal, Panna<br />
Diamond World<br />
These days, brides prefer<br />
detachable sets and those<br />
pieces are very high in<br />
demand. For engagement<br />
rings, people like anything<br />
between .70 to 1 ct or<br />
1.5 ct. Men like to go for<br />
solitaire or a simple band.<br />
Nowadays, customised<br />
name button covers and<br />
cufflinks set with diamonds<br />
are also trending for gifting<br />
purpose<br />
Vikash Soni, L Gopal<br />
Jewellers<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 91
Special RepoRt<br />
GJSCI India Jewellery Excellence Symposium<br />
Spreading Knowledge &<br />
Technical Know-How<br />
GJSCI’s India Jewellery Excellence Symposium turned out to be an<br />
excellent platform where participants gained a lot of knowledge<br />
about what’s latest in the manufacturing front<br />
India’s first Jewellery Excellence<br />
Symposium organised by GJSCI<br />
held in Mumbai was a big success<br />
where experts from all over the world<br />
where invited to share their knowledge<br />
on various topics<br />
The Indian Jewellery Excellence<br />
Symposium that took place in Mumbai<br />
on January 8 and 9 was nothing short<br />
of an indulging affair. From key note<br />
speakers to renowned jewellers and<br />
retailers, it saw the presence of the<br />
prominent members of the Gems &<br />
Jewellery industry. The event was not<br />
only informative but was also a medium<br />
to enlighten the who’s who in trade on<br />
the pressing issues of the industry and<br />
how we can benefit by sharing gained<br />
knowledge.<br />
Dignitaries from Ministry, NSDC &<br />
Trade Bodies made their significant<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 93
Special RepoRt<br />
presence for the grand inauguration<br />
of the symposium. The inauguration<br />
saw the presence of Chief Guest<br />
– Rupa Dutta, Economic Adviser,<br />
Ministry of Commerce & Industry,<br />
Guest of honour - Manish Kumar, MD<br />
& CEO – National Skill Development<br />
Corporation (NSDC), Pramod Agrawal,<br />
Chairman – Gem & Jewellery Export<br />
Promotion Council (GJEPC), N.<br />
Anantha Padmanabhan, Chairman –<br />
All India Gem & Jewellery Domestic<br />
Council (GJC), GJSCI Chairman,<br />
Sanjay Kothari, and Director, GJSCI<br />
Shishir Nevatia and Executive Director<br />
- CEO, GJSCI, Rajeev Garg. At the<br />
event, Indian and international experts<br />
made presentations on manufacturing<br />
and business best practices to an<br />
exclusive audience comprising owner/<br />
promoters and senior professionals<br />
from across the gems and jewellery<br />
industry. Adapted on the lines of the<br />
Santa Fe Symposium®, the IJES<br />
debut show hosted 22 seminars with<br />
top experts including Frank Cooper,<br />
Deirdre Featherstone, Hemant Shah<br />
and Ravi Giani.<br />
GJSCI chairman Sanjay Kothari<br />
said, “Jewellery Excellence Symposium<br />
is unique, unparalleled and is great<br />
initiative by GJSCI with the support from<br />
various industry partners. Through this<br />
platform, I urge the (jewellery) industry<br />
to learn and improve productivity to be<br />
at par with global standards.” He also<br />
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Special RepoRt<br />
shared that knowledge is important and<br />
they aim to up skill the manufacturing<br />
processes and train the people so that<br />
India can eventually start supplying to<br />
top global brands. “We need to up our<br />
game and be globally competitive. Our<br />
ultimate goal is to see India flourish.”<br />
The first edition of India Jewellery<br />
Excellence Symposium recorded a<br />
registration of approximately 300+<br />
delegates representing more than 140<br />
companies all over India. The first<br />
day was entirely engaged with the<br />
sessions led by eminent speakers viz.<br />
Ravi Gilani, Frank Cooper, Ashish<br />
Arora, Dr.Anand Deshpande, Peter<br />
Bubendorfer, Ms. Jill Goodson,<br />
Anikesh Pandey, Ashish Arora, Luigi<br />
Carboni all accomplished names from<br />
the gems and jewellery industry world<br />
over. The second day was equally<br />
exciting delivering various sessions by<br />
renowned experts like Jayant Murthy,<br />
Dierdre Featherstone, Hemant Shah,<br />
GaniIqbal, Meghna Saraogi, Jason<br />
Fava, Soran Jota, Fulvio Sinisi, Dr. Po.<br />
Hung Ko, along with other eminent<br />
speakers.<br />
Talking about innovative 3D<br />
printing, Frank Cooper in his session<br />
shared how one needs to do a lot of<br />
research before investing in a good<br />
machine. “There are very large<br />
numbers of 3D printers available for<br />
the jewellery industry at different price<br />
points.You need to do a lot of research<br />
before investing in a 3D printing<br />
machine. Don’t fall for the cheapest.<br />
3D systems ProJet (multijetting) Prints<br />
directly into photo polymeric resin. If<br />
you use budget machines, surfaces are<br />
usually uneven. The difference comes<br />
through in the finish. On the other hand<br />
Hemant Shah was seen sharing his in<br />
depth knowledge through the medium<br />
of innovation. “There are 4 types of<br />
innovation- incremental, disruptive,<br />
architectural and radical. Out of these,<br />
it is radical innovation that will help<br />
you change the game and achieve<br />
success,” he quipped. Gauge reaction<br />
of your audience and use feedback<br />
received to improve your product and<br />
process, he further added. All the<br />
way from New York, came jewellery<br />
designer Deirdre Featherstone to cast a<br />
spell on the audience. In her session,<br />
she explained the importance of a story<br />
that leads to the construction of a design<br />
that is custom made for your client. “If<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 95
Special RepoRt<br />
expert Quotes<br />
75 per cent of<br />
talent quit their<br />
jobs in the first<br />
year of joining<br />
because they<br />
don’t know<br />
how what they<br />
do contributes to the vision of<br />
the company. Employee needs<br />
are shifting and it’s important to<br />
understand that to attract good<br />
talent. Psychological safety is<br />
more important than monetary,<br />
which is what makes companies<br />
like Google what it is.<br />
ashish arora, MD, HR NXE<br />
No matter<br />
where you are<br />
in the supply<br />
chain, you have<br />
to find a way to<br />
create custom<br />
experience for<br />
your client. The new retailer<br />
comes into business straight<br />
out of college with no inventory<br />
and with the help of digital<br />
inventory, how does he do that?<br />
CAD is the answer; it is the hub<br />
of the wheel.<br />
Jill Goodson, Founding Partner,<br />
Gemally<br />
Your engineers need to have a good grasp of the<br />
technology and how CAD works. Rhino CAD<br />
program is the most popular because it’s the easiest<br />
and cheapest. Matrix is the best program if you<br />
have to show the best rendered image to your<br />
customers. Excellent for setting stones. Design is<br />
parametric and works backwards. Good options<br />
for rendering with even higher quality rendering<br />
options. Brush is very popular and is well worth investigating<br />
especially for sculptural work.<br />
Frank cooper, School of Jewellery, Birmingham<br />
We started off small in the year 1993 in Calicut.<br />
At that time our Chairman had a dream of<br />
opening 100 stores. Today we have 250 stores<br />
globally and around 140 stores internationally.<br />
We have always believed that the day you<br />
believe that you know everything, you know<br />
nothing and the day you feel like you don’t<br />
know everything, you probably know something. It’s been so<br />
many years, but we continue to learn every day.<br />
asher o, Malabar Gold & Diamonds<br />
Jewellery industry needs to innovate and if one<br />
does not innovate, one will always stagnate.<br />
The path to innovation begins with pinpointing<br />
potential. Study and research all aspects like<br />
location, sustainability, cost and so on. Study<br />
the sustainability and acceptability of a product<br />
that you are working on. Only if the project is<br />
commercially viable, is it worth taking it ahead.<br />
Hemant Shah<br />
you work with platinum, you have to<br />
create designs that are timeless. Due<br />
to limited supply of the metal, whatever<br />
you create must be exceptional.<br />
Designing for clients involve listening<br />
to their demands, what they give value<br />
to and giving them what they want but<br />
in your own unique way,” she shared.<br />
Augmented Reality in jewellery<br />
industry was addressed by Meghna<br />
Saraogi, who revealed how one can<br />
reap rewards of the advancement in<br />
technology. “AR helps you to digitise<br />
inventory. It can be shared with people<br />
across the globe with just a click.You<br />
can add real data like gold quality,<br />
diamond data, price etc along with<br />
the jewellery pieces.In a way AR also<br />
detects your emotions as it detects<br />
smile/ frown through face recognition.<br />
Since jewellery is a an emotion based<br />
decision, you can get better insight into<br />
likes and dislikes of consumers through<br />
AR. Consumers have short attention<br />
span and most consumers spend most<br />
time on their phones. A revolutionizing<br />
way for consumers to try on jewellery<br />
from their phones will give people<br />
instant access,” she revealed. ?<br />
IJES indeed turned out to be a onestop<br />
source for bringing together the<br />
industry’s most innovative and diligent<br />
experts to share their ideas, innovations,<br />
best practices, experiences, techniques<br />
and insights on manufacturing<br />
excellence. The event gracefully<br />
concluded felicitating the eminent<br />
speakers & also demonstrated the<br />
commitment of GJSCI to continue IJES<br />
with yet another edition in January<br />
2021.<br />
96 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
<strong>DW</strong> Promotion<br />
Limelight Lab-Grown Diamonds<br />
Pooja Sheth of Limelight Diamonds<br />
receives ET Business Icon award<br />
Pooja Sheth aspires to create a luxury niche in the world for<br />
lab-grown CVD diamonds from India<br />
Limelight Diamonds, India’s<br />
first luxury brand offering<br />
handcrafted lab-grown CVD<br />
diamond jewellery is pleased to<br />
announce that Pooja Sheth, Founder<br />
& Managing Director was felicitated<br />
as Technology Leader for Sustainable<br />
Diamond Creation at ET Business<br />
Icon award on 23rd January <strong>2020</strong>. ET<br />
Business Icons, an initiative by OMS<br />
- a Times group company identifies<br />
the contribution of the country’s most<br />
powerful enterprises in their respective<br />
fields.<br />
The forte of Limelight Diamonds<br />
lies in offering the most exquisite<br />
& carefully handcrafted diamond<br />
jewellery. Their forte lies in crafting<br />
the impeccable Type IIa diamonds,<br />
whose luster is analogous to that of the<br />
legendary Koh-i-Noor. Headquartered<br />
in Mumbai, they are a limited company<br />
backed by one of the world’s largest<br />
CVD diamond labs based in Surat.<br />
Pooja Sheth aspires to create a luxury<br />
niche in the world for lab-grown CVD<br />
diamonds from India. Hailing from<br />
an investment banking background,<br />
Pooja has amassed her knowledge from<br />
leading global education schools such<br />
98 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
<strong>DW</strong> Promotion<br />
“With Limelight Diamonds, we are making<br />
a socially responsible and sustainably<br />
conscious effort towards a brighter future<br />
for everyone in the real sense by creating<br />
an aesthetic that makes every design stand<br />
out.” - Pooja Sheth<br />
as the London School of Economics and<br />
Harvard Business School, USA. Having<br />
previously worked for Barclays Capital<br />
in London, she now heads the strategy<br />
& operations for Limelight Handcrafted<br />
Diamonds. Her sound understanding<br />
of management coupled with a global<br />
perspective sets her apart as the newage<br />
leader.<br />
Pooja is a strong advocate of<br />
sustainable and conscious living. With<br />
Limelight Diamonds, she wants to<br />
maintain the legacy, superior quality<br />
and yet build the category on the pillars<br />
of responsibility and sustainability.<br />
These diamonds are grown in a lab<br />
and not found in mines, hence they are<br />
conflict-free and sustainable, saving<br />
water and land extraction. The brand<br />
has been at the forefront of showcasing<br />
lab-grown CVD diamond-studded<br />
jewellery within the responsible luxury<br />
niche in India and globally. With the<br />
laboratories based in Surat, the Group<br />
annually produces large volumes of labproduced<br />
rough diamonds, unmatched<br />
in the world.<br />
On receiving this award, Pooja<br />
Sheth said,“We at Limelight Diamonds<br />
are very fortunate to be awarded this<br />
prestigious title by ET Business and<br />
will forever strive to deliver quality and<br />
an opportunity for conscious consumers<br />
to make a responsible choice. With<br />
Limelight Diamonds, we are making<br />
a socially responsible and sustainably<br />
conscious effort towards a brighter<br />
future for everyone in the real sense by<br />
creating an aesthetic that makes every<br />
design stand out and with technology<br />
that greatly reduces the environmental<br />
impact.”<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 99
Company FoCus<br />
(L-R) Harsh Arora - President Global Solutions - BVC Logistics, Rajesh Neelakanta - ED & CEO - BVC Logistics, Uday Chinai - Chairman, Bharat<br />
Badani - President - BVC Clearance, Yogesh Bansode - President - BVC Brinks & Krishna Bastikar - VP - BVC Brinks<br />
BVC Logistics<br />
Beacon of Inspiration: 60 Years<br />
of Safeguarding the Industry<br />
As the foremost leader of logistics & security, BVC Logistics<br />
has become this industry’s safe haven. 60 years since its<br />
modest beginning, the company has grown leaps and bounds,<br />
diversifying into unchartered territories and reaping success<br />
in doing so. Here’s the journey of a company whose vision and<br />
mission have had no bounds<br />
of Humble Beginnings &<br />
passing of the Torch<br />
Bhagwanji Vallabhji (BV) Chinai<br />
founded BVC as a customs brokerage<br />
company in Zaveri Bazaar, Mumbai<br />
in 1960. Uday Chinai, the present<br />
Chairman and son of B V Chinai<br />
joined the group in 1980 at a tender<br />
age of 18 and took the torch from<br />
his father, expanding the company<br />
strength to strength, from a customs<br />
broker company to an end-to-end<br />
logistics company for the diamond &<br />
jewellery industry. In 2013, Bhavik<br />
100 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Company FoCus<br />
Chinai joined the company as the<br />
third generation entrepreneur and<br />
under his leadership, the company<br />
today has become synonymous with<br />
logistics and security in the jewellery<br />
industry covering logistics, tourism,<br />
security, investments and technology<br />
under its wings.<br />
an Empire of a secure<br />
Logistics Company<br />
BVC Logistics was the first company<br />
in India to start organized customs<br />
brokerage for the diamond and<br />
jewellery industry. Since then, BVC has<br />
been a pillar of support to the industry<br />
by creating India’s first international<br />
secure door-to-door solution in 1980,<br />
thereafter domestic in 1999. As a<br />
leading customs broker, BVC’s format<br />
of the customs documents was adopted<br />
by the Indian Customs for all export<br />
and import in late 1980s. As the first<br />
enterprise in India to adopt EDI, use<br />
GPS enabled armoured trucks and<br />
enable shipping to 130 countries, BVC<br />
has led the industry’s evolution through<br />
example. Since 2013, BVC has grown<br />
exponentially, expanding their offices,<br />
team, solutions and customers, working<br />
with over 16,000 businesses in the<br />
mine to market value chain consisting<br />
of miners, manufacturers, wholesalers,<br />
retailers and e-tailers. BVC operated<br />
in 8 cities in 2013 and realized the<br />
domestic jewellery industry needs<br />
organized logistics for an ever growing<br />
share of organized trade. BVC grew<br />
from 8 cities to over 20 cities in a period<br />
of 3 months and thereafter has grown<br />
its presence in over 50 cities, servicing<br />
over 10,000 pincodes for door-to-door<br />
secure logistics.<br />
From having a team of less than<br />
200, BVC has grown to more than 1300<br />
individuals across India, Singapore and<br />
November 2019<br />
marks the start of<br />
BVC’s 60th year and<br />
BVC launched its<br />
new vision, Vision<br />
2022. The new<br />
vision of BVC is<br />
‘To Make Shipping<br />
The Competitive<br />
Advantage of 30,000<br />
Businesses by<br />
March 2022’<br />
Hong Kong. With hundreds of bullet-proof<br />
vehicles and a nationally appreciated<br />
signature vehicle design, BVC is<br />
synonymous with security and trust.<br />
BVC has historically worked with<br />
thousands of exporters and importers<br />
and since 2013 has grown the number<br />
of businesses it serves from 3,800 to<br />
over 16,000. Today, BVC provides its<br />
topnotch services to mining giants like<br />
Rio Tinto and De Beers as well as large,<br />
medium and small manufacturers,<br />
wholesalers, retailers and e-tailers.<br />
Bhagwanji Vallabhji (BV) Chinai, Founder, BVC Logistics<br />
achieving the unachievable<br />
In 2015, BVC started a specialized<br />
solution for e-commerce logistics and is<br />
a proud exclusive partner of Flipkart,<br />
Amazon and others for the jewellery<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 101
Company FoCus<br />
Timeline of success<br />
1960<br />
1980<br />
1988<br />
BVC starts its<br />
operations in<br />
Mumbai<br />
BVC Logistics<br />
achieves IATA<br />
accreditation<br />
Pioneers<br />
India’s first EDI<br />
System<br />
1999 1995 1992<br />
2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013 2009<br />
BVC Logistics<br />
starts global<br />
secure logistics<br />
The first official<br />
logistics partner<br />
for IIJS<br />
India network<br />
expanded to 6<br />
cities<br />
BVC Logistics<br />
handles logistics<br />
of Indian Premier<br />
League 2<br />
Expands its<br />
domestic presence<br />
to over 30 cities<br />
Launches the<br />
joint venture with<br />
Brinks Inc.<br />
Launches world’s first<br />
integrated logistics<br />
platform Vamaship<br />
Achieves 50%<br />
market share for<br />
the first time<br />
Launches BVC<br />
Consultancy<br />
BVC WeddingSHIP<br />
handles all<br />
destination Bollywood<br />
weddings<br />
Vamastores<br />
launches & Alibaba<br />
partnership inked<br />
Rajesh Neelakanta, CEO, BVC Logistics, Uday Chinai, Chairman, BVC Logistics, Bharat<br />
Badani,President, BVC Clearance & Yogesh Bansode, President, BVC Brinks at the<br />
launch of BVC Vision 2022<br />
category. BVC teamed with the customs<br />
to bring the cost of international B2C<br />
shipping down by over 70 per cent,<br />
enabling the growth of online sales.<br />
In 2014, BVC created the largest<br />
strategic collaboration of this industry<br />
by forming a joint venture with the 160<br />
year old American enterprise Brinks,<br />
enabling delivery within 24 hours in<br />
over 130 countries.<br />
In 2015, BVC started Vamaship, a<br />
technology platform making shipping<br />
easy and cheap for thousands of<br />
e-commerce SMEs across India which<br />
has today become India’s largest.<br />
Thereafter in 2017, BVC started<br />
BVC Consultancy. BVC Consultancy<br />
works with dozens of entities as an<br />
extended legal partner to decode<br />
customs regulation. BVC created<br />
solutions in 2018 to make any business<br />
export ready in 7 days and helps large<br />
enterprises receive AEO certification.<br />
In 2018, BVC launched its first<br />
direct to consumer solution ‘BVC<br />
WeddingSHIP’ where BVC does doorto-door<br />
secure logistics of jewellery for<br />
destination weddings, from the guests<br />
homes to the venue and back, offering<br />
absolute peace of mind for the largest<br />
life event.<br />
Beyond logistics for diamonds<br />
and jewellery, BVC supports almost<br />
every Indian luxury brand for secure<br />
logistics. Among its USP is its fully<br />
insured exhibition solution for private<br />
and public exhibitions. BVC is the<br />
proud Official Logistics Partner of over<br />
100 Indian exhibitions and all major<br />
global exhibitions.<br />
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Company FoCus<br />
Initiatives like Vamastores and<br />
Alibaba are the start of a range of<br />
solutions to help businesses find<br />
new customers in India and globally.<br />
Through deeper collaboration with<br />
ecosystem partners like banks and<br />
packaging manufacturers, BVC aims<br />
to create a holistic solution for all<br />
diamond and jewellery merchant needs.<br />
As a market leader, BVC’s vision is<br />
now to deepen relationships and bring<br />
logistics solutions which exist only in<br />
developed nations to India.<br />
BVC being awarded the best Customs Broker of the Year 2019 award at the 46th India Gems &<br />
Jewellery Awards (IGJA)<br />
In early 2019, BVC launched<br />
Vamastores which makes a jeweller<br />
e-commerce ready in 24 hours with<br />
a mobile friendly website integrated<br />
with payment gateways, logistics,<br />
SMS, email and dozen other and helps<br />
increase sales through listing inventory<br />
on jewellery marketplaces.<br />
In late 2019, Alibaba and BVC’s<br />
Vamaship collaborated for enabling<br />
exports for thousands of domestic<br />
jewellery merchants and increasing<br />
sales for exporting merchants. This<br />
long term partnership is going beyond<br />
jewellery to help handicrafts, textile<br />
and fashion merchants who work with<br />
Vamaship. BVC has been actively<br />
investing in technology startups<br />
and has invested in companies in<br />
crowdfunding, HR tech, legal tech and<br />
several high growth industries.<br />
a Vision like no other<br />
November 27, 2019 marks the start of<br />
BVC’s 60th year and BVC launches<br />
its new vision, Vision 2022. The new<br />
vision of BVC is ‘To Make Shipping<br />
The Competitive Advantage of 30,000<br />
Businesses by March 2022’.<br />
Today, logistics is a cost centre<br />
for every business and BVC aims to<br />
transform this and make shipping a<br />
competitive advantage where simply<br />
by using BVC to ship, businesses can<br />
make their customers’ experience a<br />
beautiful buying experience.<br />
To achieve this vision, BVC has set<br />
aggressive service targets like achieving<br />
delivery within 24 hours anywhere<br />
in India and deep use of technology.<br />
BVC is also expanding its geographical<br />
coverage from 10,000 pincodes to over<br />
20,000 pincodes, making hundreds of<br />
bullet-proof vehicles, recruiting over<br />
1000 BVCites, all over the coming 30<br />
months.<br />
In BVC’s philosophy, logistics is<br />
like electricity, road or water, it’s a<br />
utility. The way life in a village gets<br />
transformed by access to a new road,<br />
jewellers in small towns can transform<br />
their businesses through access to<br />
reliable secure logistics. BVC aims to<br />
go beyond logistics to become a partner<br />
for jewellers to increase sales and<br />
reduce indirect costs.<br />
a samaritan at Heart<br />
Making a difference to society is the<br />
reason for being in business for BVC<br />
and BVC Foundation is the group’s<br />
organization which focuses on making<br />
a difference in education, healthcare,<br />
animal welfare and supporting other<br />
Foundations.<br />
The Foundation runs three flagship<br />
events, the DOO Initiative, Blood<br />
Donation Week and Tree Plantation<br />
Drive. The DOO Initiative, held every<br />
May makes a difference to over 30,000<br />
kids in orphanages and adults in old<br />
age homes across over 30 states of<br />
India by contributing books, stationery<br />
and clothes.<br />
The Blood Donation Week, held in<br />
November is held in over 20 cities in<br />
India where the BVC ecosystem joins<br />
to maximize blood donated. BVC<br />
started planting over 1000 trees in its<br />
annual Tree Plantation Drive and aims<br />
to grow this by 10x over the coming<br />
years. Beyond direct initiatives, BVC<br />
supports several Foundations in their<br />
initiatives by contributing financially<br />
and its team’s time.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 103
Asked & Answered<br />
Bejewelled Romance<br />
Collection by<br />
Motisons Jewellers<br />
Diamonds Jewellery Sales<br />
HOW ARE YOU<br />
PROMOTING<br />
YOUR DIAMOND<br />
JEWELLERY?<br />
Four jewellers known for their<br />
exclusive diamond jewellery spill the<br />
beans on how they promote diamond<br />
jewellery to a customer who might<br />
actually be walking in to buy gold<br />
The sentiment as far as diamond jewellery is concerned has<br />
been tepid in India for some time now. With the wedding<br />
season going on, there may be some improvement, but<br />
overall, diamonds have not been quite the performers. Retailers are<br />
grabbing any and every opportunity to promote diamond jewellery<br />
at their stores. Special diamond sales, discounts on solitaires,<br />
buyback offers – the list is endless. However, when we spoke to these<br />
retailers, we understood that given the context today, promoting the<br />
authenticity of diamonds is the best way to capture the audience.<br />
Elegant Earrings<br />
crafted in 18 K gold<br />
and studded with<br />
rubies and fine-cut<br />
diamonds by Shobha<br />
Shringar Jewellers<br />
Diamond<br />
Jhumkas,<br />
VBJ<br />
104 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Asked & Answered<br />
No Discount<br />
Policy<br />
saurabh Baradia,<br />
Anopchand Tilokchand<br />
Jewellers, Raipur<br />
People are increasingly opting for<br />
affordable diamond jewellery<br />
which is priced below Rs 5 lakhs.<br />
When a customer walks in to buy<br />
gold jewellery with a set budget, we<br />
show him or her a few pieces of his<br />
or her liking, but eventually, we try to<br />
show him a few pieces in the diamond<br />
segment that fall under their budget.<br />
We don’t believe in giving discounts,<br />
rather we try to promote our low-end<br />
diamond jewellery through online<br />
mediums.<br />
Floral Inspired ring crafted in 18K gold with<br />
fine cut diamonds by Tanya Rastogi for Lala<br />
Jugal Kishore Jewellers<br />
Anti Discount<br />
Campaign<br />
Ujjwal Agarwal, Modern<br />
Jewellers, Bareilly<br />
We are purely promoting our diamond<br />
jewellery based on authenticity. We<br />
highlight that all our jewellery are IGI certified.<br />
Secondly, we are promoting them on an antidiscount<br />
basis. We tell our customers that other<br />
jewellers are offering diamond jewellery on an<br />
artificial discount; our campaigns state that<br />
customers should calculate the price and then<br />
buy diamond jewellery and not fall for discounts.<br />
So, our ads illustrate that a customer should<br />
compare the prices that we are offering with that<br />
of a jeweller who is giving a discount, through<br />
which they come to realise that our jewellery is<br />
priced lower. Promotions related to authenticity<br />
works best in the given scenario, price becomes<br />
secondary. If a person is selling diamond<br />
jewellery at a very low price, a customer wonders<br />
whether the diamonds in the jewellery are real<br />
or not. We don’t want to give the idea of the price<br />
in our campaign – it’s always about a diamond’s<br />
authenticity and design.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 105
Asked & Answered<br />
Neckpiece crafted in<br />
18K gold with fine cut<br />
diamonds by Tanya<br />
Rastogi for Lala Jugal<br />
Kishore Jewellers<br />
Presence in 5<br />
Star Hotels<br />
Ashraf Motiwala, AS<br />
Motiwala Fine Jewellery,<br />
Mumbai<br />
Besides typical bridal sets<br />
in diamonds, people are<br />
inclining towards gifting diamond<br />
jewellery. We have a robust social<br />
media presence to showcase<br />
our creations. We also retail our<br />
jewellery in about eight locations<br />
at Taj Hotels. Mostly, weddings<br />
happen in 5 Star properties, so we<br />
try to get a catchment of customers<br />
there, especially those who are<br />
looking to gift. All our jewellery in<br />
all our locations our IGI certified<br />
– we foresaw that there would<br />
be skepticism in the minds of<br />
consumers sooner or later about<br />
diamonds. So, now we are saying<br />
that our jewellery comes with a<br />
third party certificate about colour,<br />
clarity etc.<br />
Word of Mouth<br />
Venkata Bhanu, Ananth<br />
Diamonds, Vijayawada<br />
My clientele constitutes only<br />
of brides. We don’t make or<br />
sell light weight jewellery. Since it<br />
is the wedding season, the demand<br />
has been quite good. We don’t do<br />
any promotional activities for our<br />
jewellery. I have never advertised.<br />
Word of mouth works best for us.<br />
Vijayawada is a small city, and<br />
everybody knows everybody. Good<br />
or bad feedback, both spreads<br />
fast here. I exclusively rely on my<br />
designs – that is our selling point<br />
and has always been our selling<br />
point.<br />
Ring from ‘Yes I Do’<br />
Collection by Divine<br />
Solitaires<br />
Pearl Diamond<br />
Earrings by Varda<br />
Goenka Fine Jewels<br />
by Diagold<br />
106 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
The Rock Talk<br />
An aquamarine and<br />
Diamond brooch, by<br />
Tiffany & co<br />
Exquisite art deco<br />
Aquamarine and<br />
Diamond tiara necklace,<br />
Cartier<br />
DIVAS’ DREAM openwork ring<br />
in 18 kt white gold with an<br />
aquamarine and set with pavé<br />
diamonds, Bulgari<br />
Aquamarine<br />
The aqua effect<br />
These gorgeous stones with a hint of blue<br />
that mimic droplets of water so beautifully,<br />
are one of nature’s true miracles<br />
Oasi bracelet with aquamarine<br />
and diamonds set in white gold,<br />
Buccellati<br />
White gold Peau d’Âne collection<br />
aquamarine earrings with<br />
diamonds, sapphires and<br />
tourmalines, Van Cleef & Arpels<br />
78.33-carat Santa Maria aquamarine Hiver<br />
Impérial Baïkal necklace, Boucheron<br />
An aquamarine and<br />
Diamond ring, mounted by<br />
Cartier<br />
Aquamarine and<br />
diamond necklace,<br />
Bulgari<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 107
The Rock Talk<br />
High Jewellery<br />
Brooch Moon,<br />
Jewellery Theatre<br />
Earrings set with a half moon<br />
Colombian emerald and a half<br />
moon diamond, Moussaieff<br />
Phases Of<br />
The Moon<br />
Multi-<br />
Sapphire<br />
Necklace,<br />
Andrea<br />
Fohrman<br />
Star and Moon 18K Oxidized<br />
Gold, Diamond and Moonstone<br />
Earrings, Colette Jewelry<br />
Moon Motif<br />
Fly me to the Moon<br />
The moon in its various avatars has long<br />
been jewellers’ favourite. From half<br />
moons to fading crescents and those<br />
surrounded by glittering stars, here are<br />
our favourite picks<br />
Fly Me To The Moon Mismatched<br />
Gold-Tone, Crystal And Pearl<br />
Earrings, Shourouk<br />
Marquetry Moon & Star Earrings,<br />
Silvia Furmanovich<br />
Kundan Vintage Diamond<br />
And 18K Gold Crescent<br />
Pendant Necklace, Amrapali<br />
Sapphire cresecent moon earrings,<br />
Silvia Furmanovich<br />
Moon & sun<br />
necklace, Lele<br />
Sadoughi<br />
Savanna moon earrings,<br />
Eduarda Brunelli<br />
108 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
The Rock Talk<br />
Jubilee 22K Gold Multi-Stone<br />
Charm Bracelet, Mallary Marks<br />
Charm necklace, Grazia &<br />
Marica Vozza<br />
Vintage Charm Yellow Gold Bracelet, Eleuteri<br />
Antique Gold, Gemstone, and<br />
Diamond Charm Necklace,<br />
Renee Lewis<br />
Charm Jewellery<br />
enchanting charms<br />
Everybody can do with some luck. Charm jewellery with<br />
pretty trinkets are back in fashion. From multistone<br />
bracelets to necklaces with gemstone, diamond and gold<br />
charms, here are our favourite creations<br />
Button charms bracelet, Chanel<br />
Elephant<br />
charm<br />
bracelet,<br />
Van Cleef &<br />
Arpels<br />
Diamond Platinum<br />
Charm Bracelet<br />
with Heart Charms,<br />
Tiffany & Co.<br />
Happy<br />
Diamonds<br />
Lock and<br />
Key Charm<br />
Bracelet,<br />
Chopard<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 109
The Rock Talk<br />
18K Yellow Gold<br />
Rainbow Baguette<br />
Gold Link Choker,<br />
Shay<br />
14k Rainbow Mini<br />
Bar Necklace, EF<br />
Collection<br />
14KT Gold Rainbow Sapphire &<br />
Diamond Eternity Ring, The Foundry<br />
Rainbow Jewellery<br />
of hues & happiness<br />
A universal symbol of hope and happiness, rainbow, one of<br />
nature’s magical phenomenons has been a great inspiration for<br />
artists across the board. From dainty neck pieces and rings to<br />
chunky chokers and cocktail rings, here are some kaleidoscopic<br />
pieces that inject a dose of happiness with just a glance<br />
Rainbow Grommets<br />
Gold-Plated Brass And<br />
Cubic Zirconia Statement<br />
Earring, Joanna Laura<br />
Constantine<br />
Isabelle Rainbow Brass And<br />
Crystal Hoop Earrings, Dannijo<br />
18K Yellow Gold<br />
Rainbow Sapphire Eros<br />
Folded Heart Charm,<br />
Elena Votsi<br />
Inlay collection rainbow sapphire<br />
ring, Suzanne Kalan<br />
Rainbow sapphires<br />
& diamonds ring,<br />
Turgeon Raine<br />
One Of A Kind<br />
18K Gold Jumbo<br />
Rainbow Link<br />
Necklace, Shay<br />
Under The Rainbow 18K<br />
Gold Diamond AA Grade<br />
Pendant, Korite Ammolite<br />
Rainbow Pavé Cuore<br />
Ring, Carolina Bucci<br />
110 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
NatioN Notes<br />
Turkey<br />
The Ottoman<br />
Magic<br />
Gilan Istanbul -<br />
Theodora earrings<br />
The jewellery trade in Turkey is 500 years old. Much like<br />
other jewellery centers, global economic volatility and<br />
domestic political tensions have constantly tested the<br />
strength of the jewellery industry, however, its signature<br />
craftsmanship and affordable labour has made it one of<br />
the most sought-after hubs of jewellery<br />
112 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
NatioN Notes<br />
Ottoman<br />
Empire<br />
Diamond<br />
Necklace<br />
Turkish jewellery<br />
exports touched<br />
$7.2 billion in 2018,<br />
exceeding the<br />
previously set<br />
goal of $6 billion.<br />
The country<br />
exports<br />
jewellery to UK,<br />
United Arab<br />
Emirates,<br />
the U.S., Hong<br />
Kong and<br />
Switzerland<br />
Turkey holds a leading position<br />
amongst the jewellery exporting<br />
countries in the world. A large<br />
manufacturing base with affordable<br />
labour along with an increasing<br />
number of designers has helped Turkey<br />
in becoming an important jewellery<br />
making centre. Besides, the country’s<br />
important geographical location helps<br />
bridging East and West, making it an<br />
important distribution and re-export<br />
centre. Turkey’s jewellery industry<br />
received a huge boost with government<br />
decisions taken in the early 1980s to<br />
liberalize the gold trade and foreign<br />
exchange, according to the Turkish<br />
Jewelers Association (TAJ). The<br />
TAJ promotes the export of Turkish<br />
jewellery, advances the interests of the<br />
Turkish jewellery sector internationally,<br />
and supports the activities of the<br />
Turkish jewellery export sector. Turkish<br />
jewellery exports touched $7.2 billion<br />
in 2018, exceeding the previously set<br />
goal of $6 billion. The country exports<br />
jewellery to UK, United Arab Emirates,<br />
the U.S., Hong Kong and Switzerland.<br />
The mark Turkey has left globally<br />
as far as its jewellery is concerned is<br />
inimitable. With craftsmanship at par<br />
with its European manufacturers, it has<br />
managed to keep competitors at bay<br />
with its low prices.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 113
NatioN Notes<br />
There are more<br />
than 50<br />
major companies<br />
in which 200-1500<br />
qualified workers<br />
are employed. The<br />
industry is a huge<br />
one amongst the<br />
Turkish<br />
manufacturing<br />
industries and<br />
employs about<br />
2,50,000 people<br />
currently<br />
A ring from the Fauna<br />
collection, with a cabochon-cut<br />
emerald, Aida Bergsen Jewellery<br />
Market Potential &<br />
Craftsmanship<br />
According to the Turkish Trade<br />
Government, there are more than 50<br />
major companies in which 200-1500<br />
qualified workers are employed. The<br />
industry is a huge one amongst the<br />
Turkish manufacturing industries<br />
and employs about 2,50,000 people<br />
currently. Traditional Turkish jewellery<br />
making techniques include filigree<br />
(telkari), niello (savat) and wickerwork<br />
(hasir). Filigree is a technique in which<br />
the artist creates motifs by soldering<br />
together fine silver or gold wires.<br />
Since the wire used is often extremely<br />
delicate, this technique requires an<br />
almost infinite degree of patience.<br />
The niello technique is based on tiny,<br />
delicately-worked pieces of handpainted<br />
enamel which are partitioned<br />
by precious metals. In wickerwork,<br />
another technique used by Turkish<br />
jewellers, delicate wires are woven<br />
together.<br />
Journey<br />
to Dreams<br />
collection -<br />
Gilan<br />
Ottoman Empire<br />
Diamond Brooch<br />
114 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
NatioN Notes<br />
Istanbul Jewelry Show<br />
Istanbul Jewelry Show is referred as the<br />
bridge between European and Middle<br />
East markets. The biannual show<br />
takes place in March and October. The<br />
October 2019 edition saw a 12 per cent<br />
increase in the number of international<br />
visitors. Istanbul Jewelry Show plays<br />
an important role to Turkish Jewelry<br />
Industry reach its 2019 export target of<br />
USD 6 billion and March and October<br />
Exhibitions of Istanbul Jewelry Show<br />
broke its own record by hosting over 50<br />
thousand jewellery buyers in 2019.<br />
Chance collection, Boybeyi<br />
Love for Gold<br />
Much like India, the Turkish people love<br />
gold. It’s second nature and plays an<br />
important role in their cultural milieu.<br />
In the third quarter of 2019, global<br />
tensions led to an upward movement<br />
in global gold prices, however, Turkey<br />
recorded the highest purchases in gold<br />
in this period and reached 385.5 tons<br />
in total gold reserves. According to<br />
WGC’s Gold Demand Trends report<br />
for the third quarter, while worldwide<br />
demand for gold continued to increase,<br />
the Central Bank of the Republic of<br />
Turkey (CBRT) came to the fore among<br />
the world’s central banks with largest<br />
amount of gold purchased in the third<br />
quarter. The world gold council released<br />
a report on World Gold Holdings, which<br />
stated that Turkey holds 415.2 tonnes<br />
of gold, ranking number 14, in the list<br />
of countries that reserves gold.<br />
Market Trends<br />
According to Euromonitor, China<br />
declared 2018 Turkish Tourism Year,<br />
which boosted the number of Chinese<br />
inbound tourists to Turkey in 2018<br />
and into 2019. After a lackluster<br />
performance in 2017, jewellery<br />
recorded much improved retail value<br />
growth figures in 2018/2019, supported<br />
by this initiative. The report also stated<br />
that product placement in Turkish soap<br />
operas such as Yasak Elma and Ufak<br />
Tefek Cinayetler is a key marketing<br />
tool. Manufacturers such as Gülaylar<br />
Altin, Altinbas and Assos ve Atasay<br />
have begun to work closely with media<br />
channels to promote their products<br />
in the most effective way possible.<br />
Endorsements by celebrities and<br />
influencers remained important parts<br />
of the marketing mix in 2018/2019,<br />
with jewellery players using these<br />
endorsements for limited periods to<br />
position their brands as trendy. In<br />
2018, the leader in jewellery, Atasay<br />
Kuyumculuk, collaborated with a<br />
popular social media influencer, Seyma<br />
Subasi, launching a special line which<br />
was supported by the celebrity.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 115
Design stuDio<br />
Sylva Yepremain -<br />
Sylva & Cie<br />
Back<br />
in Time<br />
Los Angeles based Sylva<br />
& Cie has garnered<br />
loyalists across the<br />
board for its pieces that<br />
transports the wearer<br />
back in time. Designer<br />
Sylva Yepremain, with<br />
her Middle Eastern<br />
upbringing and<br />
European influence<br />
injects so much soul<br />
into every single piece<br />
she makes. They are<br />
beautifully outlandish<br />
and truly one-ofakind<br />
observes Vijetha<br />
Rangabashyam<br />
116 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Design stuDio<br />
Large button earrings that glow<br />
with opals surrounded by<br />
diamonds, an 18th Century<br />
Russian Icon Cross fashioned into a<br />
pendant set in rose gold with single<br />
cut diamonds or a pair of Lava cameo<br />
flower stud earrings encircled with<br />
diamonds – when you look at Sylva’s<br />
jewellery, you can rest assured that<br />
she loves gemstones and treats them<br />
with the respect they deserve and that<br />
she panders to nobody’s whim except<br />
her own. The story of how she began<br />
her journey along with her husband<br />
Raffi Yepremain is the stuff you read<br />
in novels or watch in movies. Two<br />
Lebanese jewellers, who were best<br />
friends, migrated to Los Angeles from<br />
Beirut to realise the American Dream.<br />
Decades of thick friendship came to<br />
a halt when their son and daughter<br />
exchanged glances in an elevator at<br />
the building where both their parents<br />
had their establishments. Not only did<br />
their parents eventually come around<br />
but Sylva & Raffi’s union also led<br />
them to continue their fathers’ legacy,<br />
of creating jewellery that celebrated<br />
Lebanon’s prodigious jewellery<br />
craftsmanship. “My passion for<br />
jewellery is most definitely inherited.<br />
I come from a long line of artisans<br />
and artists and I’ve been thought to<br />
recognize admire and respect excellent<br />
craftsmanship,” says Sylva.<br />
When you look at all of Sylva’s<br />
pieces, you find yourself in a<br />
conundrum – whether she goes in<br />
search of these exceptional reclaimed<br />
stones one after the other or they find<br />
her instead, because what she fashions<br />
out of them is soulful, almost like it’s<br />
is the only way they are meant to be.<br />
She is minimalist in her approach,<br />
yet her pieces are noticeable from<br />
My client is a<br />
collector who<br />
wants to<br />
stand out in oneof-a-kind<br />
pieces.<br />
She knows<br />
what she wants.<br />
She also wants<br />
wearable luxury.<br />
She wants to be<br />
able to wear her<br />
jewellery every<br />
day<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 117
Design stuDio<br />
I’ve learned all<br />
I know from my<br />
father who is a 70+<br />
year bench master.<br />
Having lived in<br />
both Lebanon<br />
and Paris has<br />
definitely shaped<br />
my esthetics and<br />
I’m always striving<br />
to create a new<br />
language within<br />
my Middle Eastern<br />
and European<br />
influences<br />
any corner. Her designs are clean and<br />
simple and there is no hodgepodge of<br />
gemstones – she makes the gemstones<br />
shine with a smattering of diamonds at<br />
the most. Most of her pieces are Gothic<br />
in appeal – dark, mysterious and rustic;<br />
the beauty in these pieces doesn’t come<br />
from the fact that they are sparkly, like<br />
with most jewels, but from the fact<br />
that they have been sourced for their<br />
organic appearance.<br />
It feels wrong to say that Sylva hasn’t<br />
had any formal training. If years of<br />
watching her father who has been an<br />
expert bench master for decades is not<br />
training, then what is? “I’ve learned<br />
all I know from my father who is a 70+<br />
year bench master. Having lived in<br />
both Lebanon and Paris has definitely<br />
shaped my esthetics and I’m always<br />
striving to create a new language within<br />
my Middle Eastern and European<br />
influences.”<br />
She works with medallions, cameos,<br />
diamond roughs, conch shells, mother<br />
of pearls, dinosaur bone and what not.<br />
Sylva finds beauty in the strangest of<br />
materials, what most jewellers would<br />
rubbish as lacking in aesthetics. So<br />
her clientele that constitutes the likes<br />
of Oprah & Reese Witherspoon, like to<br />
wear jewellery that isn’t flamboyant and<br />
showy yet they root for pieces that are<br />
innately precious and one-of-a-kind.<br />
“My client is a collector that wants to<br />
stand out in one-of-a-kind pieces. She<br />
knows what she wants. She also wants<br />
wearable luxury. She wants to be able<br />
to wear her jewellery every day.”<br />
These pieces which are diligently<br />
handcrafted by Sylva’s craftsmen<br />
take you back in time, to another<br />
118 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Design stuDio<br />
world, which most people vicariously<br />
live through books and movies. But<br />
she is one of the few jewellers who<br />
transport you to a bygone era with<br />
her creations. “Lately I’ve been<br />
really interested in the 40’s and 50’s,<br />
jewellery drastically changed with<br />
those two decades from feminine and<br />
ornate to more architectural shapes.<br />
My latest collection encompasses<br />
some of these qualities.”<br />
Though she comes from a family<br />
of jewellers, Sylva wasn’t handed<br />
everything in a platter. Her journey has<br />
been one of self introspection, of what<br />
the world wants and what she wants.<br />
When she decided to take the plunge to<br />
design her jewellery, she decided that<br />
she wants to do it her way and either<br />
people like it or they don’t. What has<br />
worked for her is also a set of niche<br />
clients, who find her imagination and<br />
creative process interesting. “I think<br />
the market has changed these last few<br />
years. Consumers are less interested<br />
in having luxury for the masses and<br />
are more seeking to make an emotional<br />
connection with their next purchase of<br />
jewellery.”<br />
Inspiration for someone like Sylva<br />
could come from anywhere. However,<br />
she loves the Alahambra palace. “A few<br />
places have influenced me as much as<br />
my visit to Alhambra, Spain. The mix<br />
of the Moorish architecture and designs<br />
mixed with European influences speaks<br />
to me!”<br />
The market has<br />
changed these<br />
last few years.<br />
Consumers are less<br />
interested<br />
in having luxury<br />
for the masses and<br />
are more seeking to<br />
make an emotional<br />
connection with<br />
their next purchase<br />
of jewellery<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 119
Red CaRpet Jewels<br />
Jewellery at Golden<br />
Globes, Grammys & SAG<br />
spaRKlY<br />
Moments!<br />
The award season just came to<br />
a close and fashion enthusiasts<br />
across the globe waited with<br />
bated breath to find out the<br />
trends that dominated the red<br />
carpets this season. Diamonds<br />
have always been celebrities’<br />
favourite and this year too, the<br />
stars dripped in diamonds as<br />
they sashayed the red carpets<br />
in stunning gowns at the<br />
Globes, SAG & Grammys<br />
Golden Globes and Screen Actors<br />
Guild paved way for some major<br />
sartorial moments for the world to see.<br />
From diamond chokers with a vibrant splash<br />
of coloured gemstones, collar bone-hugging<br />
statement necklaces to vintage pieces and<br />
diamond studded hair accessories; there sure<br />
was no dearth of sparkle on the red carpet this<br />
year. Men too took the spotlight for accessorising<br />
their outfits with jewellery to the nines.<br />
Golden Globes<br />
Priyanka Chopra<br />
wore a high jewellery necklace<br />
featuring over 56 carats of<br />
diamonds and diamond earrings<br />
by Bulgari.<br />
Jennifer Aniston slayed<br />
in a vintage Cartier necklace<br />
from the 1950s, courtesy of Fred<br />
Leighton, along with two Art<br />
Deco rings that complemented<br />
her entire look.<br />
120 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Red CaRpet Jewels<br />
Olivia Colman, who won<br />
Best Actress in a TV Drama<br />
Series for The Crown, chose<br />
to make a political statement<br />
with her diamonds. One of her<br />
three rings read, “50/50, Equal<br />
Representation for Actresses.”<br />
Ansel Elgort wore the<br />
Enchant butterfly brooch<br />
in platinum and sapphires.<br />
The actor also wore a Tiffany<br />
1837 Makers 27 mm square<br />
watch in stainless steel and a<br />
stunning platinum ring with<br />
a Sri Lankan sapphire of over<br />
nine carats and diamonds.<br />
Gillian<br />
Anderson wore a<br />
dazzling platinum and<br />
diamond drop earrings<br />
worth $40,000 while her<br />
Tiffany Circlet diamond<br />
necklace are worth<br />
$165,000.<br />
Cynthia Erivo’s left no stones turned<br />
when it came to dazzling at the red carpet.<br />
She wore $5 million worth of jewels. The<br />
centerpiece of her choker was a 40-carat<br />
sapphire cabochon, surrounded by 56.65<br />
carats of diamonds and sapphires. It’s<br />
valued at over $3 million. She also wore<br />
three rings and an earful of earrings.<br />
Billy Porter, one of the most talked<br />
about celebrity from the awards this season,<br />
wore a $46,500 Tiffany and Co dragonfly<br />
brooch, necklace and rings. The necklace<br />
itself had a 40-carat diamond pendant and<br />
was worth $2 million.<br />
Jennifer Lopez, who was<br />
nominated for Best Supporting<br />
Actress, looked like a million<br />
bucks in more than 145 carats<br />
of Colombian emeralds and<br />
diamonds by Harry Winston.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 121
Red CaRpet Jewels<br />
SAG<br />
Jennifer Lopez paired $9 million worth of Harry<br />
Winston jewels with her off-shoulder black Georges Hobeika<br />
gown. It included six pieces that totaled nearly 200 carats, most<br />
notably a 73.55-carat cascading diamond drop necklace.<br />
Lupita Nyong’o’s rings and<br />
chandelier earrings shone as bright as her<br />
smile! The actress wore 90 carats worth of<br />
Forevermark diamonds.<br />
122 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
Red CaRpet Jewels<br />
Michelle Williams ensured<br />
she made a memorable impression<br />
with her Forevermark 6.37-carat<br />
diamond feather brooch clipped<br />
just above her ear. Her retroinspired<br />
blonde bob suited the hair<br />
accessory perfectly.<br />
Charlize<br />
Theron wore<br />
a Tiffany & Co.<br />
bracelet as a<br />
hair accessory<br />
making way for<br />
a new trend that<br />
everyone is talking<br />
about<br />
Scarlett Johansson complemented her<br />
body hugging gown and sleek hair do with long<br />
earrings in ceramic with three dimensional pave<br />
diamond drops by James de Givenchy for Taffin<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 123
Red CaRpet Jewels<br />
Ariana Grande donned<br />
diamond studs worth $2.5 million<br />
from Lorraine Schwartz with her<br />
puffy Giambattista Valli gown.<br />
Lizzo arrived on the<br />
Grammys red carpet<br />
in an all white Versace<br />
with Lorraine Schwartz<br />
diamond jewellery. She<br />
paired the dress with<br />
a whopping $2 million<br />
worth of Lorraine Schwartz<br />
diamond jewellery.<br />
Camila Cabello slayed<br />
the red carpet with a $2 million<br />
diamond necklace by Le Vian<br />
that complemented her gorgeous<br />
black Goth gown by Versace<br />
Grammys<br />
Heidi Klum opted for a<br />
long Lorraine Schwartz diamond<br />
necklace, which was the perfect<br />
addition to her gilded gown.<br />
Diplo had<br />
as all in awe<br />
with Bulgari’s<br />
turquoise,<br />
cabochon<br />
sapphires,<br />
and brilliantcut<br />
diamond<br />
necklace from<br />
their Heritage<br />
collection<br />
FKA Twigs<br />
wore two pieces<br />
from upscale<br />
antique jeweller<br />
Bentley &<br />
Skinner. A<br />
Victorian opal and<br />
diamond necklace<br />
from 1890 along<br />
with tulip-shaped<br />
diamond earrings<br />
made by the<br />
jeweller.<br />
124 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD
ExpErt Column<br />
Diamond Price Index<br />
The Importance of<br />
Diamond Price Index<br />
The significance of an index is essential to<br />
track and measure the value of your solitaire<br />
diamond says Jignesh Mehta, Founder &<br />
Managing Director Divine Solitaires<br />
Transparency brings trust and trust<br />
is essential for any business to<br />
establish relations and a connect<br />
with the consumers. This decree applies<br />
to the gems and jewellery industry as well.<br />
Consumers today are evolved and mindful<br />
when purchasing jewellery. Though they do<br />
trust jewellers, they they come prepared with<br />
their own study on pricing, value and other<br />
parameters in order not to get deceived.<br />
A price index is a normalised average<br />
(typically a weighted average) of price<br />
relatives for a given class of goods or services<br />
in a given region, during a given interval<br />
of time. It is a statistic designed to help to<br />
compare how these price relatives, taken<br />
as a whole, differ between time periods or<br />
geographical locations.<br />
Consumers refer to the price index of<br />
precious metals like gold and silver when<br />
purchasing their jewellery but when it<br />
comes to solitaire diamonds that is not<br />
the case.<br />
A Diamond Price Index (DPI) is a<br />
representation of the current market pricing<br />
trend for diamonds. The DPI takes into<br />
account the average retail price per carat<br />
of loose diamonds from jewelers around<br />
the web. Prices are calculated for groups<br />
of weight ranges as well as by colour and<br />
clarity.<br />
The DPI ushers transparency in the<br />
diamond industry and standardisation in the<br />
pricing of diamonds. Every single diamond<br />
is documented using a nationwide standard<br />
and transparent price list. Each month’s<br />
DPI reflects the change in diamond prices<br />
which is compared to the previous month’s<br />
and year’s figures.For diamond jewellery<br />
consumers, potential or regular, who keep<br />
an eye out for the trends in solitaire prices,<br />
this index serves as a very helpful one-stop<br />
reference point.<br />
Just like any other consumer good, Alfred<br />
Marshall’s Law of Demand and Supply<br />
applies to diamonds as well. Demand and<br />
Supply and overall economic performance<br />
of the country majorly affect the pricing<br />
of diamonds. It’s essential that consumers<br />
know the real-time price and its actual value<br />
and hence a DPI is essential to track.<br />
The price of a diamond is generally<br />
decided depending on the four basic<br />
attributes of cut, colour, carat and clarity.<br />
However parameters like its depth and<br />
fluorescence also affect pricing. Jewellers<br />
end up giving consumers a vague estimate<br />
when it comes to the change in the price;<br />
therefore diamonds needa DPI for uniform<br />
pricing.<br />
An index like DPI helps in bringing<br />
out the real asset value of the diamond. A<br />
diamond is a beautiful asset and consumers<br />
have the right to know the value for their<br />
money. If diamond jewellers provide<br />
consumers with surety on the resale value<br />
of their diamonds along with certificates,<br />
consumers know they are in safe hands.<br />
Reliable brands always practice diamond<br />
pricing. Usually, the consumers make a<br />
mistake in their purchasing decisions by not<br />
opting for certifications and not preferring<br />
reputed jewellers.<br />
Buying jewellery like diamonds requires<br />
research and planning or else one can end<br />
up paying more or being duped without<br />
knowing the basics. When purchasing<br />
diamonds it’s important to not just be<br />
well informed but also make a legitimate<br />
investment.<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 125
Stone talk<br />
Citrine<br />
From yellow to brownish or reddish orange<br />
and everything in between, citrine comes in an<br />
assortment of warm colours, making it a great<br />
autumn birthstone. This variety of quartz has been<br />
used in jewellery for centuries, although most<br />
historical citrine jewellery dates from the Victorian era.<br />
Often available in large sizes and with high clarity,<br />
it has become a popular and affordable choice for<br />
everyday jewellery.This stone symbolizes energy,<br />
confidence and success.<br />
Colour<br />
Citrine is traditionally known for its yellow colour. That is why<br />
its name means “lemon-coloured” in French and Latin. The most<br />
valuable citrine is a saturated yellow to reddish orange without<br />
any brown tints. Contemporary jewellery, however, often features<br />
brownish or reddish orange citrine marketed under delectable<br />
names such as “butterscotch” or “whiskey” citrine.<br />
Citrine and amethyst can occur in the same crystal. The unusual,<br />
bi-coloured gem that results is called ametrine.<br />
©GIA <strong>2020</strong>. GIA®, the GIA logo and Gemological Institute of America® are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.<br />
126 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD<br />
ADT190135_India_Advertorial_Citrine_Spread_v3.indd All Pages
Stone talk<br />
Clarity<br />
Citrine is known for its clarity and does not typically<br />
contain eye-visible inclusions. Inclusions lower its value.<br />
Treatments<br />
Naturally-coloured citrine is rare; most citrine is amethyst<br />
or smoky quartz that has been heat-treated to change its<br />
colour to yellow.<br />
Sources<br />
The top sources for natural citrine are Bolivia, Spain,<br />
Madagascar, Mexico and Uruguay. However, the majority<br />
of citrine on the market today is heat-treated amethyst from<br />
Brazil. Bolivia is the only commercial producer of ametrine.<br />
To learn more about citrine and other popular gemstones,<br />
visit GIA.edu/gem-encyclopedia<br />
This article is provided by GIA (Gemological Institute of America ® ).<br />
GIA.edu<br />
Images Courtesy of: Arya Esha<br />
Learn More About GIA Education Programmes and Laboratory Services in India<br />
GIAindia.in Email: labindia@gia.edu Email: eduindia@gia.edu<br />
DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 127<br />
1/29/20 11:47 AM
ExpErt Column<br />
Diamond Education<br />
What Does Diamond<br />
Education Really Mean?<br />
Ben Prior, sales executive at De Beers Group Industry<br />
Services, reflects on a busy 2019 and explores what<br />
independent retailers can do to enhance their diamond<br />
knowledge and prepare for consumer scrutiny in <strong>2020</strong><br />
Today’s end-consumer is really<br />
discerning. With the accessibility<br />
of the internet, many shoppers have<br />
done incredible amounts of research before<br />
they enter your independent jewellery retail<br />
business. They arrive armed with knowledge<br />
of the 4Cs, but also a deeper understanding<br />
of colour grading, clarity grading, fancy cuts<br />
and colours, settings and precious metals. To<br />
engage this kind of self-educated consumer,<br />
a sales associate needs to be able to impart<br />
diamond wisdom in a way that can’t be<br />
replicated online. That means handling<br />
diamonds, demonstrating, perhaps with a<br />
loupe, the differences between stones and<br />
sharing the history, heritage and properties<br />
of diamonds in a way that builds a complete,<br />
‘diamond story’.<br />
In recent months, the team at De Beers<br />
Group Industry Services and our educational<br />
arm, De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds,<br />
has worked with national and international<br />
retail businesses who recognise the need<br />
to be one step ahead. In Thailand, for<br />
example, we have an on-going relationship<br />
with retail jeweller, Aurora – a business<br />
that really understand the importance of<br />
continuous professional development for its<br />
staff. Aurora has just over 200 stores across<br />
Thailand. It needs to ensure its staff have<br />
the confidence to handle diamonds and an<br />
ability to use the 4Cs as a foundation when<br />
telling the ‘diamond story’ behind each<br />
piece. In the autumn of 2019, we trained<br />
200 Aurora staff members over two weeks<br />
in Bangkok. Our courses were translated<br />
live into Thai making this one of the most<br />
ambitious and large-scale retail training<br />
projects we have ever worked on.<br />
Aurora has gone to such efforts to<br />
drive its diamond sales, but also to build<br />
consumer confidence in its staff as ‘diamond<br />
experts’. Now, 200 of its staff members<br />
have the knowledge to answer a wide<br />
range of questions, identify the differences<br />
between diamonds, and consider how these<br />
differences impact the final grading report<br />
of each stone.<br />
De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds<br />
retail training courses translate our<br />
Diamond Foundation Course knowledge<br />
for real-life sales situations. Just as every<br />
diamond is different, so too is every sales<br />
scenario. Our retail training focuses on<br />
understanding the areas in which consumers<br />
lack information or confidence, while using<br />
diamond knowledge to provide solutions,<br />
raise awareness and build face-to-face<br />
relationships.<br />
In the UK market, we have found<br />
that retailers are utilising the De Beers<br />
Group Institute of Diamonds Diamond<br />
Foundation course to get staff up-to-speed.<br />
We are entering a new chapter in diamond<br />
education. We have to go above and beyond<br />
what the customer can quickly search<br />
online, right to the heart of the ‘diamond<br />
story’. Being able to impart knowledge<br />
and practically demonstrate what makes<br />
diamonds special in the retail context is<br />
what diamond education is all about for<br />
<strong>2020</strong> and beyond.<br />
Find out more about De Beers<br />
Group Institute of Diamonds by visiting<br />
debeersgroupinstitute.com<br />
128 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD