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DW JAN - FEB 2020

The Big Story - G & J Trade Loses Momentum, Thanks to Coronavirus

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FOunDER: Late Vidya Vinod Kala<br />

Vol. 47 No.2 INDIA 300<br />

Alok Kala<br />

Editor and Publisher<br />

Arpit Kala<br />

Associate Publisher<br />

Vijetha Rangabashyam<br />

Senior Editor<br />

Gunjan Jain<br />

Business & Marketing<br />

Dhananjay Kokate<br />

Graphic Designer<br />

Subscription:<br />

India:<br />

Annual: Rs. 1500.00<br />

Single Copy: Rs. 300.00<br />

Overseas: Annual<br />

Airmail: US$ 150.00<br />

The<br />

Viral<br />

aTTack<br />

How Coronavirus is<br />

affecting the Global<br />

G&J Industry<br />

60 Years of BVC<br />

D-Day Diamond Jewellery<br />

Light, breezy & versatile does<br />

it for brides<br />

Sell your diamonds based<br />

on authenticity say retailers<br />

IIJS Signature <strong>2020</strong>, Antwerp<br />

Diamond Market, Red Carpet<br />

Jewels & more<br />

Vol. 47 # 2 • January-February <strong>2020</strong><br />

Cover Courtesy: Orlov<br />

Jewelry<br />

Administrative & Editorial Office :<br />

‘Journal House’, A-95, Janta Colony,<br />

Jaipur-302 004 (India)<br />

Ph.: (91-141) 2614398, 2610906,<br />

2602900<br />

E-mail: jaipur@diamondworld.net<br />

Website: http://www.diamondworld.net<br />

Mumbai Office :<br />

Unit No 19, Ground floor,<br />

Vasan Udyog Bhavan, opposite Phoenix<br />

Mills, Sun Mills Compound, Lower Parel<br />

(West), Mumbai - 400013<br />

Phone- (022) 26756055/66<br />

E-mail : mumbai@diamondworld.net<br />

Owner :<br />

International Journal House<br />

Publisher and Printer: Alok Kala<br />

Printed at :<br />

Thomson Press India Ltd., Faridabad<br />

Published from :<br />

Journal House,<br />

A-95, Janta Colony,<br />

Jaipur<br />

Coronavirus’ Impact on Global G&J Trade<br />

G&J Trade Loses<br />

Momentum, Thanks<br />

to Coronavirus<br />

Hong Kong is where the East meets West. It has been a<br />

melting pot of cultures, where many luxury brands have<br />

found their safety nets. There is nothing in Hong Kong you<br />

won’t find, including beautifully designed jewels, gemstones<br />

in variegated colours and of course diamonds. However, in<br />

the past few months, the city has been awash with crises. Following<br />

the antigovernment protests, the dreaded coronavirus<br />

is not just harming people, it is taking the flourish out of HK’s<br />

economy. A usually packed Kowloon is now deserted, as offices<br />

and factories remain closed. What’s more<br />

problematic in all this is the effect all of this is having on the<br />

Indian G&J trade reports Diamond World<br />

56 | The Big Story


64<br />

64 | Trade Fair<br />

IIJS Signature <strong>2020</strong><br />

Diamond Jewellery<br />

witnesses good<br />

demand<br />

107 | The roCk Talk<br />

Aquamarine, rainbow colour<br />

gemstones, charmed pieces<br />

& moon motif<br />

68 | anTwerp<br />

diamond markeT<br />

Antwerp Indicates<br />

Winds of Change<br />

86 | speCial FeaTure<br />

What Brides Want?<br />

72 | hoT oFF<br />

The press<br />

<strong>DW</strong>’s Fav 5<br />

78<br />

93 | speCial reporT<br />

GJSCI Symposium<br />

Spreading Knowledge &<br />

Technical Know-How<br />

120<br />

120 | red CarpeT Jewels<br />

Jewels from Golden Globes,<br />

SAG & Grammy Awards<br />

78 | Trade Fair: Vicenzaoro<br />

Vicenzaoro January – A Crowd<br />

Pleaser!<br />

112<br />

112 | naTion noTes<br />

Turkey: The Ottoman Magic<br />

100 | Company FoCus<br />

Beacon of Inspiration: 60 Years<br />

of Safeguarding the Industry<br />

116<br />

116 | design<br />

sTudio<br />

Sylva Yepremain<br />

- Sylva & Cie


editorial<br />

Gone Viral<br />

Just when we thought the industry will finally rest in peace after U.S.<br />

and China had signed the trade treaty, shock waves were felt across<br />

the industry because of a new problem and this time in the form of a<br />

virus. Coronavirus has turned the world upside down and with it the G&J<br />

industry has taken a beating too. India, which exports 30 per cent of its polished<br />

diamonds to China via Hong Kong is obviously feeling the impact of this global<br />

phenomenon and exporters are expecting anywhere between 8 – 10 percent drop<br />

in sales.<br />

The much anticipated HK Show has been postponed from March to May<br />

for obvious reasons and though inevitable, the industry is not happy about it.<br />

They were expecting to do good business, however, not everybody is sure if the<br />

new dates will be fruitful. January and February is officially the award season<br />

and we all waited with bated breath to see how the A-Listers would accessorize<br />

themselves. What can we say? Diamonds will always remain a red carpet’s best<br />

friend.<br />

We wanted to find out from retailers what brides want in terms of diamond<br />

jewellery and they had some very good insights to give. Diamond promotion, from<br />

mines to market is the need of the hour and hence we asked retailers how they<br />

are promoting their diamond jewellery. Interestingly, given the current context,<br />

promotions relating to certification and diamond authenticity works best.<br />

Another edition of IIJS Signature came to a successful finish and we learnt<br />

that buyers were more than interested in ordering diamond jewellery. There is<br />

hope after all!<br />

Happy reading!<br />

Editor<br />

Alok Kala<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 29


Round & About<br />

ROugH & Mining<br />

ALROSA relocates its March<br />

auctions from Hong Kong<br />

to other trading centers<br />

An auction for special size rough diamonds will take place in<br />

Moscow from March 2 to 18, <strong>2020</strong>. Ramat Gan (Israel) will<br />

host a polished diamond auction.<br />

"ALROSA is a regular participant of a major jewelry fair in Hong<br />

Kong. Every year, we hold<br />

auctions and tenders<br />

for rough and polished<br />

diamonds there. This year,<br />

the organizers decided to<br />

postpone the spring fair<br />

until the second half of<br />

May. Our company has<br />

adjusted its business plans respectively, and relocated two auctions<br />

scheduled for March fair," commented Evgeny Agureev, Deputy<br />

CEO of ALROSA.<br />

Every year, ALROSA holds four auctions in Hong Kong for<br />

special size rough diamonds and two polished diamond tenders.<br />

ALROSA unearths large 191ct<br />

rough diamond<br />

ALROSA unearthed the crystal in the early hours of<br />

December 25 at the Botuobinskaya kimberlite pipe<br />

in Yakutia. According to estimations made by ALROSA’s<br />

experts on site, a rough diamond weighing 190.77 carats<br />

has high quality characteristics.<br />

The age of the stone<br />

is estimated at about 2<br />

billion years. Further<br />

mineralogical analysis<br />

will reveal more precise<br />

numbers. “This is a<br />

true sign to find such a<br />

large and high-quality<br />

diamond just around the end of the year. The Nature<br />

has already endowed us in 2019. For example, a heartshaped<br />

diamond was mined at the Udachnaya pipe just<br />

before Valentine's Day. Surely, such findings are very<br />

remarkable," said Evgeny Agureev, Deputy CEO of<br />

ALROSA.<br />

Russian banks start granting loans to<br />

ALROSA's foreign clients<br />

international diamond manufacturer<br />

Dali Diamond, one of ALROSA's<br />

long-term clients, signed a loan<br />

agreement with EXIMBANK OF<br />

RUSSIA for the financing of rough<br />

diamond purchases from ALROSA.<br />

The loan agreement between<br />

EXIMBANK OF RUSSIA and Dali<br />

Diamond provides for a 24-month<br />

revolving credit line in Euros. The<br />

terms of financing are among the<br />

best in the industry today - both with<br />

regard to rates and deferred payments<br />

to the bank. EXIAR is in charge of<br />

risk insurance under the agreement.<br />

"It's another milestone for Dali<br />

Diamond to receive a seal of confidence<br />

of the EXIMBANK OF RUSSIA in<br />

choosing Dali as their first client in<br />

diamonds," noted Isidore Morsel,<br />

President of Dali Diamond Co.<br />

"We are happy that our long-term<br />

client Dali Diamonds had successful<br />

negotiations with the EXIMBANK<br />

OF RUSSIA and for the first time<br />

ever could finance the purchase of<br />

ALROSA's goods within a revolving<br />

credit line. It is a new source of funds<br />

in our industry, and we hope that such<br />

form of cooperation will work out,"<br />

says ALROSA Deputy CEO Evgeny<br />

Agureev.<br />

30 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

Rough & Mining<br />

Graff to buy diamonds<br />

from Lucapa Diamond<br />

Company<br />

Lucapa has signed an agreement with Safdico<br />

International, Graff's subsidiary according to which<br />

Safdico can buy 60 per cent of Lucapa's diamonds from<br />

Lulo mine. Safdico, Graff's subsidiary, provides the highend<br />

jewellery house with rarest polished diamonds from<br />

across the world. Under the agreement signed, Safdico<br />

will purchase 60 per cent of diamond roughs from Lulo<br />

mine. The Lulo diamonds purchased by Safdico are<br />

placed into the cutting & polishing partnership. Once<br />

procurement and manufacturing costs are deducted,<br />

the profits generated beyond the mine gate from the sale<br />

of the resultant polished diamonds are shared equally<br />

between SML and Safdico. The new revenues streams<br />

come as SML completes a self-funded US$12 million<br />

capital investment program designed to expand total<br />

group production to >60,000 carats in <strong>2020</strong> (on a 100%<br />

basis). This production increase, coupled with the new<br />

revenue streams generated from the cutting & polishing<br />

agreement with Safdico, will enable SML to generate<br />

higher returns for its partners and make more regular<br />

loan repayments to Lucapa.<br />

Petra Diamonds<br />

revenue slips as<br />

China, hong Kong<br />

demand wanes<br />

Petra Diamonds’ first-half revenue fell 6%, dented by lower<br />

prices as the diamond industry grappled with soft demand<br />

from China and Hong Kong, but the African miner said it would<br />

meet or exceed its annual production target.<br />

The industry has been facing slowing demand due to antigovernment<br />

protests in Hong Kong and the bruising trade dispute<br />

between China and the United States, while some analysts blame<br />

it on laboratory-grown diamonds.<br />

There has, however, been an improvement in demand in the<br />

second quarter, with rough diamond pricing seeing a modest rise,<br />

the miner said, adding it is on track to meet or exceed its full-year<br />

production outlook of about 3.8 Mcts. Revenue for the six months<br />

ended Dec. 31, came in at $193.9 million compared with $207.1<br />

million last year, while production inched up 3% during the first<br />

half, the African diamond miner said. Petra said lower prices<br />

and poor quality diamonds from the Finsch mine in South Africa<br />

offset the sale of the exceptional blue diamond from its flagship<br />

Cullinan mine. Petra’s net debt stood at $596.4 million, at the end<br />

of December, from $592.8 million as of September-end.<br />

32 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

POLISHED DIAMONDS<br />

SRK introduces attractively<br />

designed diamond packets<br />

Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt. Ltd.<br />

(SRK), one of the largest diamond<br />

crafting company in the industry is<br />

introducing an innovative design for<br />

Diamond Packets. Designed for better<br />

security, this newly designed packet is<br />

re-defining the traditional norms of the<br />

industry.<br />

The idea of the packet has been<br />

conceptualized by an in-house team<br />

of SRK. These packets are extremely<br />

durable, and the best paper quality used<br />

will ensure its longevity. The first of its<br />

kind in the diamond industry, the new<br />

diamond packets are 100% reusable with<br />

its unique sticker prints which users can<br />

easily peel-off. With this, the user can now<br />

have his own details printing or written on<br />

the stone, the way he/she wants.<br />

The most important feature of this New<br />

Diamond Packet is its Window of Hope;<br />

the new packets have a Transparent<br />

Peep-in window which will give surety<br />

to the Diamond owner about the physical<br />

presence of the diamond in the Packet without unfolding<br />

the full packet. This not only will ensure better enhanced<br />

security to the stone, but also will improve the efficiency in<br />

the time required to handle them, as they need to unfold it<br />

less to view the stones.<br />

The introduction of this innovation from SRK comes<br />

shortly after the company that polishes one of the largest<br />

inventories of 3Cts. and 5Cts.plus, Natural Diamonds<br />

launched their Traceability initiative “The Footprints” last<br />

year which is certified by British Standard Institute with<br />

PAS 7000 certificate.<br />

34 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

POLISHED DIAMONDS<br />

Pink diamond tiger leaps<br />

onto rare Perth Mint coins<br />

As one of the most powerful animals<br />

in Eastern culture, the majestic tiger<br />

has been immortalised in rare Argyle<br />

pink diamonds on The Perth Mint’s most<br />

significant release for <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

The opulent Jewelled Tiger coin is<br />

crafted from 10oz of 99.99% pure gold<br />

and adorned with a finely sculptured threedimensional<br />

18 carat rose gold tiger pavé<br />

set with nearly three carats of fancy vivid<br />

intense pink diamonds from Rio Tinto’s<br />

famed Argyle Diamond Mine. In contrast to<br />

its warm hue, two vibrant green Columbian<br />

Muso Emeralds represent the eyes of the<br />

mighty animal.Surmounting the coin, the<br />

tiger is presented with a fierce expression<br />

to display its dominance as it ascends a<br />

stylised rocky outcrop of mountain ranges<br />

with oriental foliage. The design is headed<br />

by the inscription THE JEWELLED<br />

TIGER and includes the Chinese character<br />

for ‘tiger’. Native to many mountainous<br />

regions across Asia, the tiger is believed<br />

to be the ruler of all beasts and ‘king’ of<br />

the mountains. Renowned for its power<br />

and beauty, the tiger shares the symbolic<br />

virtues of gold, so it was a natural choice<br />

to feature this revered creature on such a<br />

sophisticated release said Perth Mint Chief<br />

Executive Officer Richard Hayes.<br />

This rare Australian collectable features<br />

the Jody Clark effigy of Her Majesty Queen<br />

Elizabeth II, the monetary denomination<br />

and the <strong>2020</strong> year-date on its obverse.<br />

Priced at $259,000 (incl GST), the Jewelled<br />

Tiger coin is available for purchase instore<br />

or online.<br />

135 Fatherless<br />

Daughters tied knots<br />

at Mass Wedding<br />

Ceremony in Surat<br />

The Mass Marriage Ceremony in Surat<br />

featured 271 young couples from<br />

diverse cultural and religious backgrounds.<br />

The ceremony that was organized by Kiran<br />

Gems Private Limited and PP Savani Group<br />

on December 21 and 22, 2019 was attended<br />

by State Ministers, Shri Bhupendrasinh<br />

Chudasama and Shri Ganpatsinh Vasava.<br />

Shri Vallabhbhai Patel, Shri Mavjibhai<br />

Patel, Dinesh bhai Lakhani and Rajesh<br />

bhai Lakhani performed the Hindu ritual<br />

of Kanyadaan – the practice of giving away<br />

one’s daughter in marriage.<br />

Star Rays becomes a carbon neutral company<br />

Star Rays, a leading Indian diamond<br />

manufacturer and exporter, has<br />

underlined its commitment to sustainable<br />

business practices by<br />

working towards becoming<br />

India’s first carbon-neutral<br />

diamond company. Star Rays<br />

is participating in the World<br />

Jewellery Confederation’s<br />

(CIBJO) Greenhouse Gas<br />

(GHG) Measuring and Offsetting Initiative<br />

to ensure that its carbon emissions and<br />

removals are measured in accordance<br />

with international standards.<br />

“Global warming and climate change<br />

have come to the fore as a key issue in<br />

sustainable development. Every human<br />

activity in the world releases<br />

carbon dioxide. We are<br />

committed to reducing carbon<br />

emissions at every step in our<br />

business and personal life. As<br />

a responsible company, our<br />

motto at Star Rays is to make<br />

the world a better place to live in. We<br />

have therefore decided to collaborate<br />

with Carbon Expert, a carbon consultancy<br />

firm who have developed processes and<br />

best practices to help companies become<br />

carbon neutral by complying with GHG<br />

Protocol Corporate Standard” says Jitesh<br />

Shah - Partner Star Rays.<br />

“Environmental and social<br />

responsibility has become a mission for<br />

Star Rays. Carbon neutrality is just one<br />

of a number of initiatives Star Rays has<br />

adopted to ensure that our clients can take<br />

pride in purchasing natural diamonds<br />

manufactured by an environmentally and<br />

socially-conscious company,” says Rahul<br />

Jauhari – Sr. Vice President, Global<br />

Salesand Marketing, Star Rays.<br />

36 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

POLISHED DIAMONDS<br />

Season 7 of Kiran Premier<br />

League <strong>2020</strong> a Grand Success<br />

Captain - DM Tigers with the Captains of other teams<br />

Kiran Premier League <strong>2020</strong> – Season<br />

7 was a 4-day fun-filled carnival<br />

organized by Kiran Gems Private Limited.<br />

Season - 7 started with a bang and was held<br />

from January 30 to February 2, <strong>2020</strong>, in Air<br />

India Sports Club, Mumbai.<br />

Directors, Dinesh Lakhani and Rajesh<br />

Lakhani welcomed the 16 participating<br />

teams and wished them luck! As always,<br />

the entire Kiran Team welcomed Kiran<br />

Alliance, the team of diamond brokers that<br />

played as well.<br />

Director, Dinesh Lakhani said, “Cricket<br />

is a sport that has the potential to unite<br />

Captain, Dinesh Lakhani of DM Tigers with<br />

his Trophy<br />

people in one thread. A sport that is engaging<br />

and increases camaraderie between the<br />

team members. It improves social skills<br />

such as cooperation, communication and<br />

learning how to cope with winning and<br />

losing, team skills and a fantastic way<br />

to re-connect with the colleagues.” The<br />

atmosphere on the pitch was energetic<br />

and action-packed. Stadium during all<br />

the games was the liveliest place that was<br />

witnessed by all that were present there.<br />

“We call ourselves One Big Family and it<br />

really is true”, mentioned Director, Rajesh<br />

Lakhani. “Every family member at Kiran<br />

Gems looks for ways to help each other. It’s<br />

a ‘Happy Workplace’. We encourage and<br />

foster a work environment that is fun and<br />

that inspires employees to take joy in their<br />

work,” he added.<br />

Kiran Premier League Trophy and<br />

Favourite Team Title was won by Dinesh<br />

Lakhani’s team DM Tigers.<br />

38 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

Lab & TechnoLogy<br />

De beers group Industry Services<br />

partners with RDI Diamonds Inc<br />

De Beers Group Industry Services<br />

has announced a new collaboration<br />

with leading US wholesaler, RDI<br />

Diamonds Inc., to become its premier<br />

source of diamond grading reports.<br />

The partnership marks De Beers<br />

Group Industry Services’ first step into<br />

diamond grading activity in the U.S.<br />

As part of the collaboration, De Beers<br />

Group Industry Services will be the<br />

exclusive grader of Rare and Forever<br />

diamonds from RDI and assist in<br />

various educational activities and sales<br />

training. Jonathan Kendall, President of<br />

De Beers Group Industry Services, said:<br />

“De Beers Group Industry Services<br />

prides itself on its high standards,<br />

consistency and proprietary technology.<br />

We are so pleased to see companies<br />

like RDI Diamonds taking measures to<br />

ensure their customers can be confident<br />

the diamonds they are buying are<br />

accurately represented on their grading<br />

reports.<br />

“This move will give RDI Diamonds<br />

something truly compelling to offer to<br />

their clients, from a company that is<br />

recognized as a leader in the diamond<br />

industry. They can substantiate, clearly<br />

define, and explain the differences<br />

between grades, guaranteeing the<br />

customer the highest standards<br />

of diamond grading supported by<br />

innovative and proprietary technology<br />

from De Beers Group Industry Services.”<br />

Michael Indelicato, CEO of RDI<br />

Diamonds, said: “We were humbled<br />

to be approached by De Beers Group<br />

Industry Services for such an important<br />

opportunity: introducing the United<br />

States to this grading report. We have<br />

been blown away by the integration<br />

of unparalleled technology to ensure<br />

consistent and accurate grading. These<br />

grading reports are going to be a gamechanger<br />

here in the States, and we are<br />

excited to be a premier partner.”<br />

GIA Offers $2 million in Scholarships for <strong>2020</strong><br />

scholarship from GIA<br />

a (Gemological Institute of<br />

America) can help with the cost of<br />

the Institute’s industry-leading and<br />

globally-recognized diploma and<br />

certificate programs. Applications<br />

are now available for scholarships<br />

for professionals and students<br />

interested in gemology and jewelry<br />

manufacturing arts programs, distance<br />

education courses and lab classes<br />

related to gems and jewelry.<br />

Anna Doll, GIA Graduate<br />

Gemologist, Applied Jewelry<br />

Professional and scholarship<br />

recipient, said, “The GIA scholarship<br />

made a huge impact in my life. I would<br />

not have been able to be here without it.”<br />

Scholarships funded by the GIA<br />

Endowment Fund and private donors<br />

are available for distance education<br />

eLearning courses and lab classes,<br />

and for GIA’s Gemology and Jewelry<br />

Manufacturing Arts programs and<br />

classes at the Institute’s campuses<br />

in Bangkok, Carlsbad, Hong Kong,<br />

London, Mumbai, New York and<br />

Taiwan.<br />

In 2019, GIA awarded 458<br />

scholarships that ranged from $600 to<br />

$23,000 to pursue eLearning courses,<br />

lab classes and on-campus programs.<br />

GIA has awarded nearly $10 million<br />

in scholarships since 2015, helping<br />

more than 2,000 students study at GIA<br />

globally.<br />

40 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

Lab & TechnoLogy<br />

gIa brings Diamond<br />

origin Reports to<br />

Times Square<br />

gIA brings the message of its consumer protection<br />

mission and its new innovative Diamond Origin<br />

Reports to crowds in New York City’s Times Square during<br />

the holiday season, including the famous New Year’s<br />

celebrations and Valentine’s Day.<br />

“Over the coming months, there will be millions of<br />

engagement moments shared around the world. At the<br />

center of most will be the story of a diamond,” said Mark<br />

Buntz, GIA’s senior vice president and chief marketing<br />

officer. “At GIA, we are proud to give consumers the<br />

knowledge to tell that story, and to trust in the quality and<br />

origin of their diamond. There is no place better than the<br />

heartbeat center of New York City to introduce consumers<br />

to GIA’s mission, services and reports.”<br />

Two ads about GIA’s innovative Diamond Origin Report<br />

and the 4Cs of Diamond Quality – Color, Clarity, Cut and<br />

Carat Weight – alternate on the 56-by-29-foot wrap-around<br />

video billboard at 1500 Broadway on the north-east corner<br />

at West 43rd Street. One of the two 15-second spots will<br />

run three times each hour from 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. until Feb.<br />

15, <strong>2020</strong>. The two videos, along with a third ad focused on<br />

diamond shopping that ran from Nov. 15 through Dec. 25,<br />

2019 are also on GIA’s YouTube channel.<br />

DRC Techno introduces<br />

three new automatic CVD<br />

/HPHT diamond detectors<br />

F<br />

or the first time in the history of lab-grown diamond detection<br />

industry, DRC Techno is proudly introducing three new<br />

revolutionary automatic (objective type) series of lab-grown<br />

(CVD/HPHT) diamond detectors with the equivalent capabilities<br />

of our most refined and automatic detector developed till date for<br />

high capacity analysis; The J Smart Pro.<br />

Yes, you heard it right. No more ‘Maybe’, only ‘Yes’ or ‘No’.<br />

Gone are the days of manual (subjective type) result<br />

interpretation, where the human judgment might lead to an<br />

error in interpreting the lab-grown diamond detection results.<br />

Followed by rigorous research, customer surveys and product/<br />

market fit; to identify the genuine pain points of all members in<br />

the natural diamond & diamond Jewellery supply chain. DRC<br />

Techno understood and realized the need of the hour to provide<br />

an uncomplicated solution to meet customer’s deep need of<br />

safeguarding their respective merchandise and brand image in the<br />

most convenient and cost-effective manner; because of the ever<br />

increasing global threat of the undisclosed lab-grown diamonds<br />

entering the natural diamonds<br />

supply chain.<br />

Now, with the unmatched<br />

state of the art technology from<br />

DRC Techno, every lab-grown<br />

diamond (loose or mounted) can<br />

be detected accurately, at each<br />

stage of a diamond journey.<br />

42 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

Lab & TechnoLoGy<br />

Sarine Technologies Continues<br />

Enforcement of its Intellectual<br />

Property<br />

Sarine and its subsidiary, Galatea Ltd., have filed<br />

additional lawsuits in India for patent and copyright<br />

infringement against manufacturers of IP-infringing Galaxy<br />

machines. As part of such lawsuits, court-appointed<br />

commissioners yesterday conducted surprise inspections of<br />

various locations in the diamond manufacturing centre of<br />

Surat where such systems are allegedly being manufactured<br />

and/or utilised in violation of Sarine’s patents and<br />

copyrights.<br />

David Block, CEO of Sarine, states that, “It is<br />

encouraging to see the drop in the response time of the<br />

Indian authorities to the problem of piracy in the market.<br />

In only a matter of days, the commissioners were appointed<br />

and sites inspected with police assistance so that our cases<br />

can proceed through the courts.”<br />

IGI empowers the<br />

retail team and<br />

end consumers at<br />

Londe Jewellers<br />

The International Gemological Institute, IGI,<br />

conducted a Retail Support Program for the sales<br />

team of Londe Jewellers at Nagpur. This was followed by<br />

the IGI Know Your Diamond Jewelry seminar for the end<br />

consumers where about three hundred end consumers<br />

and diamond enthusiasts were given a detailed<br />

understanding of the many aspects in solitaires and fine<br />

jewelry. Over 300 hundred participants attended the<br />

Know Your Diamond Jewelry seminar while the sales<br />

team underwent a retail training session.<br />

The Know Your Diamond Jewelry seminar was well<br />

attended by the jeweler’s esteemed clientele wherein<br />

they were enlightened about the many aspects in a<br />

diamond. "We, at Londe Jewellers, are truly grateful<br />

to team IGI for the extensive training and knowledge<br />

sharing sessions. Our employees have surely benefited<br />

from the sessions and the customers too, have gained<br />

major insights about diamonds and fine jewelry. We<br />

hope to utilize the knowledge shared in our future<br />

course of business," said Rajesh Londhe of Londe<br />

Jewellers.<br />

From things to remember while purchasing fine<br />

jewelry to evaluating the jewelry grading certificate,<br />

the session helped the end consumers understand the<br />

intrinsic characteristics that make a diamond.<br />

44 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

Lab & TechnoLogy<br />

GIA Suspends<br />

Diamond Sealing<br />

Services<br />

g<br />

IA has suspended diamond sealing services.<br />

The Institute is taking this action after recently<br />

encountering a small number of GIA sealing packets that<br />

had been compromised by third parties after the sealing<br />

packets left GIA. In these instances, GIA determined that<br />

the diamonds originally enclosed in the compromised<br />

packets had been replaced with HPHT (high-pressure,<br />

high-temperature) treated natural diamonds. The<br />

substitute treated diamonds superficially matched<br />

the GIA report information for the original diamonds,<br />

including information on the sealing packet data label.<br />

GIA is suspending sealing services in all locations<br />

indefinitely, pending an investigation of the source of this<br />

fraud. Anyone with concerns about a GIA-sealed diamond<br />

may submit the unopened packet to any GIA laboratory<br />

for verification services. If GIA concludes that the<br />

diamond in the sealing packet is the diamond described<br />

in the original report, the Institute will issue a verification<br />

letter confirming the diamond matches the original<br />

report. If the diamond does not match the GIA report,<br />

the Institute will issue a new report with the correct<br />

results. All sealed diamonds submitted for this free-ofcharge<br />

verification service will be returned unsealed. The<br />

verification service will be provided free-of-charge for<br />

diamonds received in a sealed packet.<br />

gTL collaborates with<br />

ebay for gemstone<br />

certification<br />

In an attempt to put the Gem Testing Laboratory (GTL) on the<br />

global map, Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council<br />

(GJEPC) signed an MOU with eBay on 3rd January <strong>2020</strong>. eBay<br />

will offer a special discounted price for gemstone certification by<br />

GTL under the terms of this MOU.<br />

The MOU was signed by Sanjay Singh, Regional Director,<br />

GJEPC and Vidmay<br />

Naini, Country Head,<br />

Ebay. Speaking on the<br />

occasion, Vidmay Naini<br />

commented, “With the<br />

help of social media we will<br />

market the certification<br />

in US thereby increasing<br />

consumer confidence<br />

which will lead to higher<br />

sales. One thing I would like to highlight is that when you’re<br />

selling on eBay, you’re not competing against your own sellers,<br />

you are competing against the world sellers. The sellers can be<br />

in Thailand, China, Europe or Africa- this certification will give<br />

us a competitive advantage over those sellers. Once buyers start<br />

recognizing this certification as quality and assurance, trust will<br />

go up. Once trust goes up so will our sales. So I congratulate all<br />

of us for this endeavour and hope this partnership will open up<br />

more doors and more markets for our sellers and overall win-win<br />

situation for all of us.”<br />

46 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

AssociAtion & trAde Bodies<br />

Haridas Kotahwala<br />

of Royal India USA<br />

elected President<br />

of IDCA<br />

iDCA elects Haridas Kotahwala<br />

of Royal India USA as its<br />

President for the year <strong>2020</strong>. The<br />

Kotahwala family has been an<br />

expert in<br />

gems and<br />

jewellery<br />

spanning<br />

across 5<br />

generations<br />

with offices<br />

in Mumbai, Jaipur & U.S. Haridas<br />

has served as President in the year<br />

2009 as well.<br />

Shekhar Shah from Real<br />

Gems and Shiksha Naheta from<br />

Empresa Jewels will continue to<br />

be the group’s secretary and joint<br />

secretary respectively and Nitin<br />

Jobanputra from Sanghvi Diamond<br />

was elected vice president. Sujan<br />

Doshi from S.A. Diamonds was<br />

elected treasurer.<br />

Rutali Gandhi from Sagar<br />

Star Corp. was elected as board<br />

member. Shrenil Bhansali from<br />

Fairway Diamonds, Prakash<br />

Mehta from Interings, Prashant<br />

Mehta from Dia Expressions,<br />

Sailesh Lakhi from Sparkles &<br />

Colors USA and Nilesh Sheth from<br />

Nice Diamonds were re-elected<br />

as directors and Parag Jain from<br />

Paramount Gems and Amit Jhalani<br />

from TBR International were<br />

elected as new directors.<br />

International Diamond Week<br />

receives good response<br />

the International Diamond Week in<br />

Israel opened to a packed exhibition<br />

hall, with over 300 international buyers<br />

from 18 countries in attendance. Also<br />

participating were diamond leaders<br />

from around the world including Alrosa<br />

President Sergei Ivanov, WFDB President<br />

Ernie Blom, CIBJO President Dr. Gaetano<br />

Cavalieri, Bharat Diamond Bourse VP<br />

Mehul Shah, Dubai’s DMCC Executive<br />

Chairman and CEO Ahmed Bin Sulayem,<br />

London Diamond Exchange President Alan<br />

Cohen and Honorary President of the World<br />

Diamond Council Eli Izhakoff.<br />

The ceremony was also attended by<br />

Ramat Gan Mayor Carmel ShamaHacohen,<br />

and Israeli diamond leaders Israel Diamond<br />

Exchange (IDE) President Yoram Dvash,<br />

Israel Diamond Manufacturers Association<br />

(ISDMA) Jacob Korn, Israel Diamond<br />

Institute (IDI) Boaz Moldawsky and<br />

Chairman of the I<strong>DW</strong>I <strong>2020</strong> Ezra Boaron.<br />

The show, which features more than $1<br />

billion worth of diamonds will continue<br />

through February 12, <strong>2020</strong>. Among the<br />

300 buyers from around the world were<br />

110 buyers who arrived in Israel for the first<br />

time.<br />

In his opening remarks IDE President<br />

Yoram Dvash said, "I am delighted to see<br />

all the distinguished guests who came<br />

from Israel and abroad. This year, a record<br />

number of buyers and delegations from<br />

around the world have arrived here.”He<br />

said that thetotal number of participants<br />

would have been larger, but that due to the<br />

emergency declared in China, many of the<br />

East Asian buyers were not able to attend.<br />

“We all hope that the Chinese will soon be<br />

able to control the spread of the corona virus<br />

and that the entire world will breathe a sigh<br />

of relief.”<br />

Dvash added, "We are at the beginning<br />

of <strong>2020</strong> and we very much hope that this<br />

year will be one of recovery in the markets.<br />

In light of the reductions in rough allocation<br />

by some producers, shortages have been<br />

created and demand for certain goods has<br />

grown. This is certainly a step that will allow<br />

an adjustment in the global levels of rough<br />

and polished goods. We hope that this trend<br />

will continue in the coming months, and<br />

will create new opportunities for theworld<br />

diamond industry. "<br />

48 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

AssociAtion & trAde Bodies<br />

iGi opens new offices in shanghai<br />

Moving after 10 years from the<br />

Podung area to the prestigious<br />

Fosun building in the core of the Bund<br />

Financial Center, the new offices include<br />

multiple classrooms and a state-ofthe-art<br />

laboratory. IGI's Shanghai base<br />

is positioned as a hub in the Asia-<br />

Pacific region and will offer enhanced<br />

educational and grading services as well<br />

as gemological information to everyone<br />

interested in gems and jewellery.<br />

“IGI’s Shanghai base will promote<br />

mutual understanding between IGI and<br />

the domestic jewellery industry and<br />

establish its reputation and influence<br />

among consumers, which leads the<br />

domestic consuming market to gain<br />

more internationalized information,”<br />

expressed Yan Nanhai, vice president<br />

of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange.<br />

“IGI was one of the few representatives<br />

of international companies that was<br />

invited to participate in the second ‘Belt<br />

and Road International Cooperation<br />

Summit Forum,’ a successful model<br />

of cooperation between Western and<br />

Chinese companies under the national<br />

strategic framework, continued Nanhai.<br />

“We hope that in the new year, IGI’s<br />

Shanghai base will play a leading role<br />

in the industry."<br />

“IGI serves industry peers and<br />

consumers, providing professional<br />

services and quality assurance and<br />

helps the jewelry industry to improve<br />

their skills,” said Roland Lorie,<br />

global CEO of IGI. “With the rapid<br />

development of the Chinese jewelry<br />

market, IGI education offers the<br />

possibility for the domestic industry to<br />

improve acumen and gain international<br />

empowerment.”<br />

BVCI is now a certified member of<br />

Responsible Jewellery Council<br />

BV Chinai & Co.<br />

(India) Pvt. Ltd.,<br />

(BVCI) India’s leading<br />

customs clearance<br />

company for diamond<br />

and jewellery, has<br />

achieved the certified Membership<br />

by the Responsible Jewellery Council<br />

(RJC) for the Code of Practices<br />

(COP) 2019. RJC is the jewellery<br />

industry’s foremost standard-setting<br />

and certification body.<br />

RJC membership always<br />

brings upon BVCI an enormous<br />

responsibility of ensuring<br />

the best practices in its<br />

business relationships &<br />

operations. BVCI’s ethical<br />

approach to business<br />

& continuous stress on<br />

regulatory compliances addresses<br />

the worries of its customers by<br />

assuaging and providing, in reality, a<br />

seamless EXIM operation. Further this<br />

membership is a symbol of enhanced<br />

customer trust in BVCI.<br />

Uday Chinai, Chairman,BV<br />

Chinai& Co. (India) Pvt. Ltd., (BVCI)<br />

said, “We are thrilled to receive<br />

the coveted membership certificate<br />

from RJC. Since its inception in the<br />

year 1960, BVC has been an active<br />

partner to the Gems & Jewellery<br />

industry, with logistics solutions for<br />

the entire value chain. We adhere<br />

to the highest standards of business<br />

ethics while providing a superior<br />

and modified solution with the aid.<br />

We will help bring in global best<br />

practices relevant to the precious<br />

cargo industry in India.”<br />

50 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

Export of lab grown polished diamonds<br />

witnessed a massive surge of 111%<br />

For the first time, the export of lab-grown<br />

polished diamonds ahead of Christmas<br />

season witnessed a massive 111 per cent<br />

increase to Rs 155 crore in November<br />

compared to Rs 73 crore in November<br />

compared to Rs 73 crore in November 2018.<br />

At the same time, the export of natural<br />

polished diamonds fell by 25%, though it’s<br />

much bigger in value terms.<br />

Many leading diamond jewellery brands<br />

Lab Grown DiamonDs<br />

in the US including Signet Jewellers largest<br />

retailer of diamond jewellery, now sell labgrown<br />

diamonds.<br />

Lab-grown Diamond and Jewellery<br />

Promotion Council (LGDJPC) chairman<br />

Shashikant Shah said, "Given their cheaper<br />

price, these diamonds are gaining huge<br />

acceptance among consumers in the US.<br />

Compared to natural diamond exports, the<br />

lab-grown diamond exports value is very<br />

negligible. But, this segment is seeing<br />

double digit growth and the exports will only<br />

keep increasing in the coming years."<br />

IIa Technologies<br />

successfully invalidates<br />

key Element Six patent<br />

The High Court of Singapore agreed with IIa<br />

Technologies and found that one of Element Six’s<br />

key patent no. 110508 in Singapore (“ SG ‘508”) which<br />

relates to the production and annealing of CVD Diamonds<br />

to improve their color, is invalid. The High Court has<br />

ordered that SG ‘508<br />

be revoked. For this<br />

reason, the High Court<br />

further concluded that<br />

IIa Technologies has<br />

not infringed SG ‘508.<br />

The High Court found that another Element Six patent<br />

no.115872, which relates to the production of optical<br />

grade diamonds, is valid and has been infringed. IIa<br />

Technologies and its lawyers are studying the judgment<br />

and will consider its next steps.<br />

Vishal Mehta said, “IIa Technologies has developed<br />

its proprietary process in the last 15 years and is proud<br />

of the work we have done to bring lab grown diamonds to<br />

the world. The current judgment will be considered in its<br />

entirety and then the company will take necessary steps<br />

to protect its interests.”<br />

iia Technologies found to<br />

have infringed Element six<br />

synthetic diamond patent<br />

Element Six expressed satisfaction at the successful conclusion<br />

of its patent infringement action against IIa Technologies<br />

in Singapore. IIa Technologies was found by The High Court of<br />

Singapore to have infringed an Element Six patent for proprietary<br />

synthetic diamond products and their method of manufacture<br />

(Singapore patent number 115872). The patent in question relates<br />

to the production of<br />

material which is<br />

desirable both for<br />

use in laboratorygrown<br />

diamond jewellery, and in optical applications such as<br />

infrared spectroscopy and high-power laser optics.<br />

A secondary Element Six patent relating to the treatment of<br />

CVD synthetic diamond (Singapore patent number 110508) was not<br />

found to be valid in Singapore and Element Six is considering its<br />

legal options with regards to this decision.<br />

Element Six has invested hundreds of millions of dollars over<br />

more than 60 years to become a leading producer of synthetic<br />

diamond material, developing new material to tackle some of science<br />

and industry’s most intractable challenges. Any use of Element Six<br />

patents, without its consent, negatively impacts its ability to get a<br />

full return from its investment and undermines its ability to carry out<br />

further important research and development.<br />

52 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Round & About<br />

Lab Grown DiamonDs<br />

swarovski's new lab-grown diamond<br />

collection includes new cuts and colours<br />

During Paris Haute Couture Fashion<br />

Week, Swarovski launched 16<br />

new created diamonds in astonishing<br />

cuts and colours. Swarovski created<br />

diamonds are a 21st century innovation<br />

that builds on their heritage of mastery<br />

and craftsmanship, dating back to the<br />

company’s founding in 1895. With<br />

the debut of this colourful collection,<br />

Swarovski pushes the boundaries of<br />

art and science, offering lab-created<br />

diamonds in 16 astonishing colours –<br />

the most extensive assortment of hues<br />

available on the global market today.<br />

<strong>2020</strong> is Swarovski’s 125th anniversary<br />

and this exploration of new materials<br />

and technologies marks the promise<br />

of a colourful year and future. The<br />

colors in the collection pay homage to<br />

Swarovski’s history of mutually creative<br />

collaborations and to the vision and<br />

innovation on which the brand’s heritage<br />

and enduring ingenuity is built upon.<br />

The 16 colours are arranged in four<br />

pillars, each referencing a creative<br />

field in which Swarovski has always<br />

played a vital role: Fashion, Art, Music<br />

& Architecture. The colours come from<br />

a range of inspirations: the sky in a<br />

cubist painting, a gothic sculpture, a<br />

couture gown and the colours dominating<br />

a variety of music cultures. Each pillar<br />

of the lab-grown diamonds contain four<br />

cushion cut diamonds led by the boldest<br />

of the four colours available in 2.5 ct.<br />

size. The rest three colours are 1.25 ct.<br />

each. The standard selection in fancy<br />

colors will reportedly be offered from<br />

0.25 ct. to 1.5 ct.<br />

Carnegie Institution Seeks Cut of Rising Lab-<br />

Grown Diamond Sales<br />

The Carnegie Institution of<br />

Washington, which has been<br />

doing scientific research for more than<br />

a century, filed lawsuits in New York<br />

alleging its patents for growing diamonds<br />

in a lab are being infringed by some top<br />

makers of such gem stones.<br />

The institute filed three complaints<br />

Thursday in Manhattan federal court<br />

against six companies, including<br />

Pure Grown Diamonds Inc. and IIa<br />

Technologies PTE Ltd. Carnegie<br />

and M7D Corp., which licenses the<br />

technology, said in the lawsuits that<br />

they are seeking cash compensation and<br />

court orders blocking unauthorized use of<br />

two patents. Carnegie says its technology<br />

uses a chemical vapor deposition (CVD)<br />

process to control growth from a diamond<br />

seed, “atom by atom, to the highest purity<br />

and quality.” Sales of man-made diamonds<br />

have been increasing in recent years<br />

because many are offered at lower prices<br />

than similar gems from a mine.<br />

“Grown or synthetic diamonds are<br />

chemically, physically and optically<br />

identical to mined diamonds,” Carnegie<br />

said in one complaint. “In fact, the<br />

Federal Trade commission has recently<br />

changed the definition of the term<br />

‘diamond’ to remove the term ‘natural.’”<br />

Pure Grown and IIa Technologies<br />

were sued in one complaint, while<br />

another was filed against ALTR Inc. and<br />

its parent, R.A. Riam Group Inc. A third<br />

targets Mahendra Brothers Exports Pvt.<br />

Ltd. and its parent, Fenix Diamonds<br />

LLC.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 53


Round & About<br />

Retail & e-CommeRCe<br />

tiffany comes to india!<br />

the iconic jewellery brand has finally arrived on the Indian soil as they flung their<br />

doors open for business in the Capital after a soft launch on the eve of Republic<br />

Day. The global jewellery giant enters India through a joint venture with the retail arm<br />

of Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Industries making Delhi's Chanakya Mall - the new 'it'<br />

destination for jewellery lovers now. Although<br />

the iconic Blue Box Cafe is yet to open (not<br />

announced), one can still bask in the glory of<br />

the timeless classic Audrey Hepburn's film<br />

Breakfast At Tiffany's, well almost!<br />

From gemstones to diamonds, the<br />

2,600sqft store in Delhi showcases the full<br />

range of Tiffany including Tiffany T, Tiffany<br />

HardWear, Tiffany True and their Home &<br />

Accessories collection. Not just that, to make your experience top-notch, they also<br />

have a luxurious private salon for scheduled appointments.<br />

“From their new designs as well its classic collections, the new store celebrates<br />

the craftsmanship and exceptional quality that characterise the brand’s extraordinary<br />

pieces,” a statement issued through Reliance said. The 183-year-old company is<br />

reportedly opening its second store in Mumbai later this year.<br />

malabar Gold & Diamonds<br />

opens new store in Qatar<br />

malabar Gold & Diamonds, one<br />

among the largest jewellery<br />

retailers globally with a strong retail<br />

network of over 250 outlets spread across<br />

10 countries, has revealed its new store<br />

in Qatar. The new store conveniently<br />

located at Fereej Al Nasr Street is the<br />

14th store of Malabar Gold & Diamonds<br />

in Qatar. Malabar Gold & Diamonds is<br />

the flagship company of Malabar Group,<br />

a leading diversified Indian business<br />

conglomerate. Established in 1993 in<br />

the Indian state of Kerala, Malabar<br />

Gold & Diamonds today has a strong<br />

retail network of over 250 outlets spread<br />

across 10 countries, 14 wholesale units<br />

in addition to offices, design centers and<br />

factories spread across India, Middle<br />

East, Far East & USA. With an annual<br />

turnover of $4.51bn, the company<br />

currently ranks one among the largest<br />

jewellery retailers globally.<br />

With 14 cluster manufacturing<br />

units in India and GCC – the company<br />

currently has 12 jewellery brands<br />

to cater to the discerning needs of<br />

customers. With headquarters in Kerala<br />

and branches across India, Middle<br />

East & Far East, Malabar Group is<br />

best known for its activities in the field<br />

of gold, diamonds, silver and lifestyle<br />

articles.<br />

Second biggest<br />

diamond ever<br />

now belongs to<br />

Fashion Mogul<br />

Louis Vuitton<br />

Sewelo - the largest rough diamond<br />

discovered since 1905 now<br />

belongs to French fashion house and<br />

luxury retailer Louis Vuitton. The<br />

news created quite a stir in the gems<br />

and jewellery industry worldwide<br />

since this was an unprecendeted move<br />

from anyone in the fashion industry.<br />

While the biggies of the industry<br />

wrap their heads around the big<br />

move by LV, Michael Burke, the chief<br />

executive of<br />

Louis Vuitton,<br />

in one of his<br />

interviews,<br />

shared how<br />

surprised his<br />

competitors<br />

are adding that it will spice things up a<br />

bit and wake up the industry.<br />

Discovered in April 2019 at the<br />

Karowe mine in Botswana (owned by<br />

Lucara Diamond Corp, a Canadian<br />

miner), the baseball-size Sewelo is<br />

the second largest rough diamond<br />

ever mined. The largest was 3,106.75<br />

Cullinan diamond, which was<br />

discovered in South Africa in 1905<br />

and eventually yielded two enormous<br />

high-quality stones — one of 530.4<br />

carats and one 317.4, both now part<br />

of the British crown jewels, as well as<br />

many smaller stones.<br />

54 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Divine Solitaires<br />

announces exciting<br />

solitaire offer at Kuldip<br />

Sons Jewellers<br />

(L-R) Nagendra Keshri, Jignesh Mehta & Saket Keshri<br />

Divine Solitaires announced the launch of an exciting solitaire<br />

jewellery exhibition at the famous Kuldip Sons Jewellers store<br />

in Ranchi, Jharkhand. Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director,<br />

Divine Solitaires and Rajesh Verma, Managing Director, Kuldip Sons<br />

Jewellerswere present and addressed the members of the press.<br />

The city of Ranchi, being the capital of Jharkhand and one of the<br />

names under the Smart Cities Mission, is home to many from other parts<br />

of the country. Since many years, the city’s local population has shown<br />

a strong inclination towards beautiful jewellery of different kinds and in<br />

various designs. While this is unchanged, the newer population is also<br />

actively developing a taste for diamond and solitaire jewellery. Not only<br />

do they seek the best quality and variety in solitaire jewellery but also<br />

something more in terms of pricing and value.<br />

Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director, Divine Solitaires<br />

said, “We are pleased to be with a brand like Kuldip Sons Jewellers.<br />

Like us, they don’t just believe in providing the best quality to their<br />

customers but also understand how important customer fulfilment is.<br />

This is something that we really look forward to as Divine Solitaires<br />

reaches out to the people of Ranchi through our solitaire jewellery<br />

exhibition at Kuldip Sons Jewellers.<br />

Rajesh Verma, Managing Director, Kuldip Sons Jewellers said, “For<br />

more than two decades, we have been providing high-quality gold and<br />

diamond jewellery to our customers in Ranchi and Jamshedpur. They<br />

love what we have to offer. And with Divine Solitaires, we are sure that<br />

the people here will also enjoy buying solitaires and solitaire jewellery<br />

in beautiful designs.”<br />

Round & About<br />

Retail & e-CommeRCe<br />

Divine Solitaires’ launches<br />

exciting solitaire offer at<br />

Mahabir Danwar Jewellers<br />

Divine Solitaires is pleased to announce the launch<br />

of its exciting solitaire jewellery exhibition at the<br />

reputed Mahabir Danwar Jewellers store in Salt Lake,<br />

Kolkata. Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director,<br />

Divine Solitaires, Arvind Soni, Director, Mahabir<br />

Danwar Jewellers and Sandeep Soni, Director, Mahabir<br />

Danwar Jewellers, interacted with the press at the<br />

event. Jignesh Mehta, Founder & Managing Director,<br />

Divine Solitaires said, “It’s great to be working with a<br />

label like Mahabir Danwar Jewellers. They value their<br />

customers and have been giving them the best quality<br />

for years now. Like them, Divine Solitaires, too, believes<br />

customer satisfaction is paramount. We really want the<br />

people of Kolkata to get the best out of this solitaire<br />

jewellery exhibition at Mahabir Danwar Jewellers.<br />

Arvind Soni, Director, Mahabir Danwar Jewellers<br />

said, “For close to forty years, we have been offering<br />

high-quality handcrafted gold, diamond, Kundan<br />

jewellery and more to our customers in Kolkata. We<br />

value their patronage and understand how important<br />

their satisfaction is. With Divine Solitaires, we want<br />

to continue offering the best solitaires and solitaire<br />

jewelleryto them in a range of beautiful designs.”<br />

Sandeep Soni, Director, Mahabir Danwar Jewellers<br />

said, “Our customers have always been pleased with<br />

our service and quality. In so many years, we have come<br />

to understand what they want in terms of design and<br />

quality. Through the solitaire exhibition from Divine<br />

Solitaires, we are sure that they will find the quality<br />

they want.”<br />

(L-R) Vijay Soni, Jignesh Mehta & Arvind Soni<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 55


The Big STory<br />

Coronavirus’ Impact on the Global G&J Trade<br />

G&J Trade Loses<br />

Momentum, Thanks<br />

to Coronavirus<br />

56 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


The Big STory<br />

Hong Kong is where the East meets West. It has been a<br />

melting pot of cultures, where many luxury brands have<br />

found their safety nets. There is nothing in Hong Kong you<br />

won’t find, including beautifully designed jewels, gemstones<br />

in variegated colours and of course diamonds. However,<br />

in the past few months, the city has been awash with<br />

crises. Following the antigovernment protests, the dreaded<br />

coronavirus is not just harming people, it is taking the<br />

flourish out of HK’s economy. A usually packed Kowloon is<br />

now deserted, as offices and factories remain closed. What’s<br />

more problematic in all this is the effect all of this is having<br />

on the Indian G&J trade reports Diamond World<br />

China is a nucleus in the global<br />

economy. It is a manufacturing<br />

centre that contributes almost<br />

16 per cent to the global gross domestic<br />

product. Hence, when the country is<br />

being overrun by a super-spreader like<br />

coronavirus, certain amount of collateral<br />

damage was expected. And Hong Kong,<br />

one of the main centres for gems and<br />

jewellery globally, is not too far away<br />

from Wuhan, the city where this dreadful<br />

virus first germinated. About 3350<br />

manufacturing companies import and<br />

export precious jewellery in Hong Kong.<br />

The outbreak has left the jewellery<br />

industry in a state of frenzy. In Hong<br />

Kong, more than 15 cases have been<br />

reported so far. The Hong Kong<br />

International Diamond, Gem & Pearl<br />

Show, one of the most important events<br />

for the gems and jewellery industry<br />

has been postponed. HKTDC stated<br />

that the show which was originally<br />

scheduled March 4 – 8 at the Hong<br />

Kong Convention Centre and the<br />

International Diamond, Gem & Pearl<br />

Show scheduled March 2 – 6 at<br />

AsiaWorld-Expo, will be postponed to<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 57


The Big STory<br />

We all acknowledge<br />

the great importance<br />

of Hong Kong and<br />

Mainland China for<br />

the global diamond<br />

and jewellery trade.<br />

The long term effect<br />

of the coronavirus<br />

will be measured in<br />

time. However, for the<br />

time being, given the<br />

current situation there<br />

was no other option<br />

than rescheduling the<br />

Hong Kong trade show.<br />

Hopefully the situation<br />

will be resolved very<br />

soon and we can all<br />

go back to business as<br />

usual<br />

Shai Schnitzer,<br />

S.Schnitzer Diamonds<br />

May 18 - 21 at the same venue.<br />

Months of preparation ahead of<br />

the show has been put to test with the<br />

decision of postponing the show, as<br />

many stakeholders believe that the new<br />

timing of the show may not be fruitful<br />

after all. It does seem like Hong Kong<br />

has been jinxed, with issues cropping<br />

up one after the other, first the protests<br />

and now the deadly virus. The prodemocracy<br />

protests proved a headache<br />

to the entire gems and jewellery<br />

industry, especially India, which<br />

exports a third of its diamonds to Hong<br />

Kong. Ahead of Chinese New Year<br />

and Christmas, both very important<br />

events in HK, the protests presented<br />

a challenge, stunting the Chinese<br />

economy to a large extent. A report<br />

by Reuters suggested that the Hong<br />

Kong government has shut 10 border<br />

checkpoints with mainland China but<br />

stopped short of a complete closure.<br />

The city which is full of opportunities,<br />

always buzzing with activity is now fear<br />

stricken with a weak morale, because<br />

it is braving political, social and<br />

economic problems at the same time.<br />

Global Impact<br />

Retailers and manufacturers in<br />

Mainland China have closed down<br />

indefinitely and Hong Kong too<br />

declared a holiday till the first week<br />

of March. The mass shutdown to curb<br />

the spread of the virus has resulted in<br />

a massive supply chain distress. The<br />

concern for everybody in the industry is<br />

that the pandemic is yet to be contained,<br />

and its impact both domestically and<br />

internationally will be felt for a long<br />

time, as tourism will be hit hard. “We<br />

58 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


The Big STory<br />

all acknowledge the great importance<br />

of Hong Kong and Mainland China for<br />

the global diamond and jewellery trade.<br />

The long term effect of the coronavirus<br />

will be measured in time. However,<br />

for the time being, given the current<br />

situation there was no other option<br />

than rescheduling the Hong Kong trade<br />

show. Hopefully the situation will be<br />

resolved very soon and we can all go<br />

back to business as usual,” said Shai<br />

Schnitzer of S.Schnitzer Diamonds.<br />

China is an important economic<br />

centre for various trades and more than<br />

17,000 people have been affected by<br />

the outbreak, causing trades across<br />

all sectors to come to a standstill.<br />

“It is unfortunate but expected. Our<br />

industry will be greatly affected as<br />

the busy season really begins after the<br />

Chinese New Year holidays. Now with<br />

the postponement of the show and with<br />

more countries imposing travel bans on<br />

people travelling to and from HK, sales<br />

will be affected without a doubt. And<br />

with Chinese authorities asking many<br />

factories to delay opening, production<br />

of HK companies who have factories in<br />

China, will be halted, but expenses will<br />

still continue,” said Manoj P. Butani of<br />

Butani Jewellery, Hong Kong.<br />

The newly announced dates of the<br />

Hong Kong show also seems a little<br />

tricky and whether it will attract enough<br />

visitors or not is now in question as it<br />

falls right after Basel and just before<br />

JCK, add to that the fact that it falls<br />

after the Ramadan season. “We can<br />

only hope by then that the virus has<br />

been tackled but it remains to be seen<br />

whether customers will be will be<br />

willing to travel to HK so soon after,”<br />

adds Butani.<br />

In its statement, HKTDC said, “the<br />

safety of exhibitors and buyers has<br />

always been a priority for the HKTDC.<br />

In line with the measures taken by the<br />

Hong Kong SAR Government against<br />

the spread of the novel coronavirus, and<br />

after consultation with representatives<br />

of the jewellery industry, the HKTDC<br />

will reschedule its HKTDC Hong Kong<br />

International Diamond, Gem & Pearl<br />

Show <strong>2020</strong> (originally scheduled for<br />

2-6 March) and the HKTDC Hong Kong<br />

International Jewellery Show <strong>2020</strong><br />

(originally scheduled for 4-8 March) to<br />

18-21 May <strong>2020</strong>.”<br />

The virus first emerged in Wuhan, a<br />

city in central China, in late December<br />

and has killed more than 360 people<br />

in Mainland China. Over 20 countries<br />

have reported around 140 cases and all<br />

It is unfortunate<br />

but expected. Our<br />

industry will be<br />

greatly affected as<br />

the busy season<br />

really begins after<br />

the Chinese New Year<br />

holidays. Now with the<br />

postponement of the<br />

show and with more<br />

countries imposing<br />

travel bans on people<br />

travelling to and<br />

from HK, sales will<br />

be affected without<br />

a doubt. And with<br />

Chinese authorities<br />

asking many factories<br />

to delay opening,<br />

production of HK<br />

companies who have<br />

factories in China,<br />

will be halted, but<br />

expenses will still<br />

continue<br />

Manoj P. Butani,<br />

Butani Jewellery<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 59


The Big STory<br />

I think it is a disaster for<br />

the diamond industry.<br />

If this situation does not<br />

come under control, then<br />

the financial situation<br />

would be worst for the<br />

diamond industry. We have<br />

to gather and unite and<br />

solve the problem as soon<br />

as possible<br />

rashmin Donda,<br />

Rainbow Gems<br />

We are currently<br />

negotiating with the<br />

exhibition organizers<br />

regarding cancellations<br />

and registration changes.<br />

As of today, there has<br />

been no harm to the<br />

diamond export growth<br />

forecast due to the effects<br />

of the coronavirus<br />

eran Zini, MD, Israel<br />

Diamond Exchange<br />

major airlines temporarily suspended<br />

their flight service to China. “I think<br />

it is a big disaster for the diamond<br />

industry. If this situation does not<br />

come under control, then the financial<br />

situation would be worst for the<br />

diamond industry. We have to gather<br />

and unite and solve the problem as<br />

soon as possible,” said Rashmin Donda<br />

of Rainbow Gems, Hong Kong.<br />

“Not much to say. Hong Kong has<br />

been jinxed. Back to back negativity.<br />

We’re all just praying and hoping for<br />

everyone’s health and safety. Business<br />

will bounce back after all this turmoil,<br />

that’s for sure. Just need to pass and<br />

survive through such bad times,” said<br />

Harsh Maheshwari of Kunming Trading<br />

Company. Some even believe if the<br />

decision to postpone the show to May<br />

was in haste as the extent of the virus<br />

and whether or not it will be kept under<br />

control by March is still not clear.<br />

“We are currently negotiating with<br />

the exhibition organizers regarding<br />

cancellations and registration changes.<br />

As of today, there has been no harm<br />

to the diamond export growth forecast<br />

due to the effects of the coronavirus,”<br />

said Eran Zini, MD, Israel Diamond<br />

Exchange.<br />

Luxury brands have been affected<br />

the most, with consumers keeping away<br />

from stores. The effect on the demand<br />

for luxury goods is not negligible. Many<br />

reports suggest that the sales have<br />

been hit harder than last year’s antigovernment<br />

protests. “Postponing the<br />

show seems to be deferring the decision<br />

of cancelling the show as the impact<br />

60 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


The Big STory<br />

of the virus is not yet fully assessed.<br />

It will impact the business heavily in<br />

all industries across the board. As<br />

people will refrain from travelling and<br />

every one would be looking forward<br />

to assessing the actual impact of the<br />

same,” said Sanjay Phophaliya of Indus<br />

Jewellery. The virus is leaving a major<br />

strain on the global macroeconomic<br />

affairs and no one knows when the<br />

epidemic will be contained and when<br />

things would get back to normalcy.<br />

Fear looms in Surat<br />

Almost 300 diamond and gems and<br />

jewellery companies participate in the<br />

HK show every year. Thousands of<br />

buyers who attend the show drive the<br />

business of these Indian companies.<br />

Surat, which is the cutting and<br />

polishing hub of India, is set to lose<br />

Rs 8,000 crore in the next couple of<br />

months, leading to a 20 per cent drop<br />

in exports because of the impact of the<br />

outbreak.<br />

All of our major<br />

buyers are from the<br />

Far East. With the<br />

onset of the virus, we<br />

are going to lose out<br />

on business for sure.<br />

I foresee an 8-10 per<br />

cent dip in the exports<br />

in the first quarter and<br />

I don’t see the virus<br />

fading away anytime<br />

soon. The effect of<br />

the virus will be there<br />

till June. The show<br />

being postponed is<br />

also not a good thing.<br />

I don’t know how<br />

effective it will be as<br />

it is coinciding with<br />

Basel and JCK. We<br />

need to focus on other<br />

markets like Europe,<br />

U.S. and Middle East<br />

to make up for the lost<br />

business<br />

Vipul Shah, Asian<br />

Star<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 61


The Big STory<br />

It was an eventuality, the show<br />

either had to be postponed<br />

or cancelled. Around 30 per<br />

cent of our goods get exported<br />

to the Far East and now with<br />

the impact of the virus, we<br />

will definitely be losing some<br />

amount of business. Hong<br />

Kong has cordoned off its<br />

borders and even if someone<br />

wants to buy goods, they can’t<br />

Ankit Shah, Ankit Gems<br />

There will be an impact for<br />

sure on the diamond industry;<br />

however, health is of foremost<br />

concern. People who have gone<br />

to villages for the holidays are<br />

not in a position to come back<br />

to Hong Kong and resume<br />

work. The Shanghai Diamond<br />

Exchange has announced<br />

that work will be resumed in<br />

February first week. So, we will<br />

have to wait and see<br />

Vipul Sutaria,<br />

Dharmanandan Diamonds<br />

Every year, Rs 50,000 crore worth<br />

of polished diamonds are exported to<br />

Hong Kong amounting to 37 per cent<br />

of total polished diamond exports. As<br />

Hong Kong has declared a month long<br />

holiday, Indian diamond traders who<br />

have offices in Hong Kong are coming<br />

back to India.<br />

“There will be an impact for sure on<br />

the diamond industry; however, health<br />

is of foremost concern. People who have<br />

gone to villages for the holidays are not<br />

in a position to come back to Hong<br />

Kong and resume work. The Shanghai<br />

Diamond Exchange has announced that<br />

work will be resumed in February first<br />

week. So, we will have to wait and see,”<br />

said Vipul Sutaria of Dharmanandan<br />

Diamonds.<br />

Several orders are placed ahead of<br />

the Hong Kong show and it is also a<br />

place where manufacturers get to know<br />

the pulse of the market and what the<br />

demand is like. “It was an eventuality,<br />

the show either had to be postponed or<br />

cancelled. Around 30 per cent of our<br />

goods get exported to the Far East and<br />

now with the impact of the virus, we<br />

will definitely be losing some amount of<br />

business. Hong Kong has cordoned off<br />

its borders and even if someone wants<br />

to buy goods, they can’t,” said Ankit<br />

Shah of Ankit Gems.<br />

The Indian trade was expecting a<br />

relief and a spike in exports after the<br />

U.S. China trade treaty. However, with<br />

the sudden outbreak of the virus, first<br />

quarter is not going to fair well. “All<br />

of our major buyers are from the Far<br />

East. With the onset of the virus, we are<br />

going to lose out on business for sure.<br />

I foresee an 8-10 per cent dip in the<br />

62 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


The Big STory<br />

exports in the first quarter and I don’t<br />

see the virus fading away anytime soon.<br />

The effect of the virus will be there<br />

till June. The show being postponed is<br />

also not a good thing. I don’t know how<br />

effective it will be as it is coinciding<br />

with Basel and JCK. We need to focus<br />

on other markets like Europe, U.S. and<br />

Middle East to make up for the lost<br />

business,” said Vipul Shah of Asian<br />

Star.<br />

The other problem lies in the pricing<br />

of cut and polished diamonds. If the<br />

problem persists, the prices of polished<br />

diamonds will not increase resulting in<br />

the squeezing of the margins. No one<br />

knows when the virus will be contained,<br />

till such time, it is standstill mode for<br />

the industry.<br />

Postponing the show seems<br />

to be deferring the decision<br />

of cancelling the show as the<br />

impact of the virus is not yet<br />

fully assessed. It will impact<br />

the business heavily in all<br />

industries across the board.<br />

As people will refrain from<br />

travelling and every one<br />

would be looking forward to<br />

assessing the actual impact of<br />

the same<br />

Sanjay Phophaliya, Indus<br />

Jewellery<br />

Not much to say. Hong Kong<br />

has been jinxed. Back to<br />

back negativity. We’re all<br />

just praying and hoping for<br />

everyone’s health and safety.<br />

Business will bounce back<br />

after all this turmoil, that’s<br />

for sure. Just need to pass<br />

and survive through such bad<br />

times<br />

harsh Maheshwari,<br />

Kunming Trading Company<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 63


Trade Fair<br />

IIJS Signature <strong>2020</strong><br />

Diamond Jewellery<br />

witnesses good demand<br />

With the wedding season coming to a close, the show floor was<br />

filled with buyers who were in serious business mode, looking to<br />

buy small ticket items in diamonds. Demand for heavy diamond<br />

jewellery is on its way out<br />

Karshev Jewellery<br />

Wondercuts<br />

The 13th edition of IIJS<br />

Signature was inaugurated<br />

with the organisers, The Gem<br />

& Jewellery Export Promotion Council<br />

(GJEPC), expressing the confidence<br />

that the Indian G&J industry was<br />

successfully navigating its way forward<br />

in the face of many external challenges.<br />

Cutting the ribbon to mark the<br />

formal inauguration of the event that<br />

is being held at the Bombay Exhibition<br />

Centre in Mumbai from February 13-<br />

16, Hon’ble Minister for Industries and<br />

Mining, Government of Maharashtra,<br />

Subhash Desai expressed the support<br />

and best wishes of the government to<br />

the industry.<br />

“IIJS Signature has received a good<br />

response with over 700 exhibitors<br />

occupying 1,300 booths and nearly<br />

12,000 pre-registered visitors,” said<br />

GJEPC Chairman Pramod Kumar<br />

Agrawal while addressing the inaugural<br />

function.<br />

In conjunction with IIJS Signature,<br />

the India Gem & Jewellery Machinery<br />

Expo (IGJME), is also being held at the<br />

same venue, where international and<br />

domestic manufacturers of machinery<br />

and related services and accessories,<br />

64 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Trade Fair<br />

Inauguration ceremony with council members<br />

will be showcasing their offerings.<br />

Agrawal listed out some of the<br />

projects initiated by the GJEPC, with<br />

support from the Ministry of Commerce<br />

and the Ministry of Finance, including<br />

the setting up of common facility<br />

centres (CFCs) and design institutes,<br />

as well as the plans for Jewellery<br />

Parks, SNZs, a Gem Bourse and Model<br />

Workshops, which were at various<br />

stages of development.<br />

Vice Chairman Colin Shah also<br />

pointed out that the GJEPC had taken a<br />

number of steps to overcome the credit<br />

crunch faced in the last couple of years<br />

by working with the banks through<br />

a Coordination Committee and other<br />

platforms. Shah said that the green<br />

shoots of a recovery after the slowdown<br />

of last year were already being seen<br />

with exports of silver jewellery and lab<br />

grown diamonds registering significant<br />

growth. Expressing the confidence that<br />

for most other verticals, “the worst was<br />

over”, he added that the Council was<br />

very hopeful that the situation would<br />

improve in the second half of the<br />

current year.<br />

Briefly referring to the launch of two<br />

new shows scheduled over the next<br />

couple of months, the International Gem<br />

& Jewellery Show (IGJS) in Jaipur and<br />

the Mega Shopping Festival planned<br />

for Ahmedabad and Bengaluru, the<br />

Council officials said that these would<br />

provide a further boost to exports.<br />

They complement the IIJS shows<br />

that were already being held twice a<br />

year, as well as the India Pavilions at<br />

international shows across the world,<br />

and the numerous buyer-seller meets<br />

that were organised in India and abroad,<br />

both Agrawal and Shah explained.<br />

“IIJS caters to the local retailers<br />

and also attracts a number of overseas<br />

retailers, mainly NRIs from across the<br />

world, who cater to the Indian diaspora<br />

in their respective countries,” Shah<br />

elaborated. “On the other hand, we<br />

have consistently reached out to other<br />

international buyers with product<br />

lines suited to the needs of their local<br />

clientele, through both the India<br />

Pavilions and BSMS. The IGJS aims to<br />

boost interaction with this segment of<br />

the global market, and we are carefully<br />

curating lists of selected buyers who<br />

are being invited to participate.”<br />

Elaborating on the Mega Shopping<br />

Festival, Agrawal said that the<br />

concept had been presented by the<br />

Hon’ble Minister of Finance, Nirmala<br />

Sitharaman as one of the steps to boost<br />

Indian exports in various categories and<br />

promote Make in India merchandise.<br />

“The Festival is being organised on<br />

behalf of the ministry by the ITPO,<br />

and the respective Export Promotion<br />

Councils are being associated with<br />

them. Every Indian mission across<br />

the world is publicising the show to<br />

potential visitors, and we hope that not<br />

only will it provide an immediate boost,<br />

but that it will also grow significantly in<br />

the years to come.”<br />

This time GJEPC had also introduced<br />

a special Crafts Pavilion to showcase<br />

India’s traditional jewellery making<br />

crafts, with the aim of helping to revive,<br />

modernise and eventually market<br />

these localised art forms. There were<br />

eye catching ornaments and gift items<br />

with complex designs and intricate<br />

detailing including handcrafted<br />

Temple Jewellery from Nagercoil in<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 65


Trade Fair<br />

Tamil Nadu, the Art of Bidri, native<br />

to Bidar in Karnataka and the delicate<br />

craftsmanship of Silver Filigree in<br />

Karimnagar district in Telangana.<br />

Also part of the show was the exclusive<br />

Signature Club which included<br />

exhibitors like Kantilal Chhotalal,<br />

KGK Jewellery, Tanvirkumar & Co,<br />

Jewelkraft Creations Pvt. and more.<br />

The exhibitors showcased an array of<br />

collections from bridal to modern and<br />

light weight pieces. Hall 6 also had a<br />

special section for women jewellery<br />

entrepreneurs on one side as well as a<br />

section for jewellery designers on the<br />

other, who presented their exclusive<br />

creations to the visitors.<br />

exhibitor Speaks<br />

The show was<br />

slow and our old<br />

clients didn’t turn<br />

up. However, we<br />

managed to garner<br />

new business.<br />

We met 2-3 new<br />

clients who showed interest and<br />

they were quality buyers.<br />

Toshiba Jariwala, Zundaa<br />

Overall the show<br />

had low footfall as<br />

compared to last<br />

year but those who<br />

came did good<br />

business. New<br />

leads were fewer<br />

than last year too.<br />

Sumit Kamalia, Uma Ornaments<br />

The show was<br />

amazing. We got<br />

the chance to<br />

renew our old<br />

relationships and<br />

make new ones.<br />

It was a fantastic<br />

platform for relationship<br />

building. We garnered new<br />

businesses and only quality<br />

buyers walked in. One feedback I<br />

have is that they should keep the<br />

last day as Monday, because on a<br />

Sunday we get a lot of business.<br />

As Sunday was the last day,<br />

people were packing up early, but<br />

buyers were still coming in.<br />

Nirav Taswala, Peacemoon<br />

Traders<br />

Consumer preferences are constantly evolving<br />

and the IIJS Signature trade show has helped the<br />

industry by providing the exhibitors a first hand<br />

chance to interact with thousands of buyers from<br />

all across the globe and to keep track of their<br />

dynamic preferences.<br />

Poonam Kothari, Achal Jewels<br />

Footfall was low. But<br />

since we specialize<br />

in fancy colour<br />

diamonds, this show<br />

has always been<br />

about educating<br />

the buyer about our<br />

product portfolio and pricing. We<br />

were able to make the buyers aware<br />

that we have a nice product category,<br />

and so this is also an option other<br />

than white diamonds. We were also<br />

able to identify their demand, and<br />

what they are exactly looking for.<br />

darshit Hirani, P.Hirani<br />

The response was<br />

pretty decent, nothing<br />

extraordinary.<br />

However, we had a<br />

number in mind and<br />

we came close to it<br />

so we are happy. The<br />

first two days buyers were focused on<br />

gold, but the last couple of days they<br />

were seriously looking to buy diamond<br />

jewellery. They were looking for<br />

something fresh, and pieces that are<br />

not found in the market and we were<br />

able to offer them the same.<br />

anuj Chatterjee, Saunay Jewels<br />

The footfall<br />

was less but<br />

the people who<br />

came in where<br />

in serious<br />

buying mode.<br />

Even though<br />

the walkins were lesser than last<br />

year, those who came were quality<br />

buyers with good enquiries. Since<br />

the wedding season is ending,<br />

buyers were looking at light<br />

weight diamond jewellery for<br />

Gudipadwa and Akshaya Tritiya.<br />

Hardik Shah, BR Designs<br />

The show was<br />

very good for us.<br />

We participate<br />

in IIJS Signature<br />

because this is<br />

where serious<br />

business<br />

happens. We got very<br />

good enquiries. People are<br />

increasingly leaning towards<br />

smaller ticket items. Demand<br />

for large diamond necklaces and<br />

heavy pieces is gone.<br />

Viral Kothari, Kosha Fine Jewels<br />

66 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Show RepoRt<br />

Antwerp Diamond Market<br />

Antwerp Indicates<br />

Winds of Change<br />

Antwerp has and will always be one of the most important centers<br />

for diamonds in the world. Global volatility has affected the<br />

market in Antwerp, however, players here believe that market<br />

consolidation is well on its way and good service and exclusivity<br />

are key factors for both success and survival finds out Gunjan Jain<br />

68 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Show RepoRt<br />

We are mainly manufacturing 90 pointers to 30 cts.<br />

Our production is back on track since December<br />

2019. KGK today is one of the major manufacturers<br />

for big size stones in the global market and recently<br />

we have made a one price policy for all our<br />

polish sales. This will make it easier for<br />

small and mid size traders to source<br />

from KGK and will also help us to<br />

increase our presence in the market.<br />

The pricing of diamonds has been<br />

stable in the past 2-3 months and<br />

U.S. and China are doing well. The<br />

recent developments in China might give<br />

a push back but only time will tell. There is<br />

definitely a consolidation in the market and that is<br />

good and will be healthy for the future. Companies<br />

will be able to make some profits and grow<br />

hasmukh Ramani, KGK Diamonds<br />

I<br />

have been visiting Antwerp<br />

every January in the last few<br />

years and the fact that it is the<br />

only diamond centre in the world,<br />

which is a perfect blend of rough<br />

and polished diamonds has not<br />

changed. Winter thronged the streets<br />

of the Diamond District, dotted<br />

with hundreds of offices and people<br />

walking in and out from one office to<br />

the other.<br />

The business is bad, no doubt, as<br />

is the case globally, but for Antwerp,<br />

the fact that the city is well connected<br />

to global markets with Indians and<br />

Jews working together is and has<br />

always been a major plus point.<br />

After interacting with many<br />

players, one thing that is apparent<br />

is that with every passing year,<br />

the market is getting majorly<br />

consolidated, where the bigger<br />

companies are getting bigger and<br />

the monopoly is falling in the hands<br />

of a few companies. To maintain<br />

a steady turnover and to run the<br />

operational costs and other expenses<br />

is something the smaller companies<br />

are finding difficult. Larger players<br />

are able to do this because they have<br />

the support of their global networks,<br />

financial management and big teams.<br />

The rough is strong in terms<br />

of prices and Antwerp was full<br />

of manufacturers from Surat and<br />

Navsari actively buying. They were<br />

hopping in and out of offices, fishing<br />

through parcels. The reason behind<br />

the activity is the low supply of<br />

roughs in the last quarter. January’s<br />

DTC sight goods came in on the day<br />

I arrived, late January.<br />

The market is going through many<br />

changes and the climate is lukewarm<br />

for sure, but the demand is driven by<br />

multiple factors. Here’s what some of<br />

the players had to say:<br />

We have been in the business<br />

for 25 years now. We were<br />

originally a rough trading<br />

company but now we do<br />

more of polished goods. We<br />

sell both online and offline<br />

and we are also into jewellery<br />

manufacturing. Business is<br />

getting tough every year, but<br />

there is demand for polish<br />

diamonds and to make<br />

profits, one needs to be very<br />

dynamic. One has to adapt<br />

to the changes, otherwise<br />

there is no question of<br />

existence. My core focus is<br />

the European market and<br />

the jewellers here. There is<br />

potential and the retailers<br />

need good service, hence<br />

we source precise goods<br />

for them. Service is key to<br />

success today. They don’t<br />

mind paying 1 – 2 per cent<br />

extra but they want prompt<br />

service and desired goods. I<br />

buy diamonds from India and<br />

process them based on my<br />

clients’ requirements. Sales<br />

is not an issue but we need to<br />

promote generic diamonds to<br />

the future generations to keep<br />

our business flourishing<br />

Alain Zlayet, Zlayet and Sons<br />

Diamonds BVBA<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 69


Show RepoRt<br />

We are buying agents for<br />

American manufacturers and<br />

jewellery brands. Service is<br />

the main thing and they trust<br />

us and our expertise to source<br />

diamonds in Antwerp. We do<br />

all the buying on their behalf.<br />

The competition in business<br />

is increasing year by year but<br />

these buyers need a variety<br />

of products which one<br />

single manufacturer<br />

cannot supply.<br />

This is where we<br />

come into the<br />

picture and<br />

we source<br />

commercial<br />

quality goods for<br />

them in reasonable<br />

prices from top<br />

manufacturers, assort and<br />

provide it to them. Now we are<br />

also planning to participate in<br />

various trade events, through<br />

which we will get in touch<br />

with new retailers and buyers<br />

and grow the business further.<br />

I am based here and my father<br />

in Tel Aviv. We have access to<br />

all the best possible goods in<br />

the market<br />

Ayelet Lerner, Lerner<br />

Diamonds<br />

We had a very good 2019 at IGI, our numbers<br />

were up compared to last year, considering how<br />

challenging it was. Globally, there<br />

have been a lot of changes and<br />

this is because of political<br />

reasons. Hong Kong has<br />

been very difficult and it is<br />

the only place where our<br />

numbers were low. The<br />

dispute between different<br />

countries regarding import duties<br />

is also an issue but this should settle<br />

soon. Lab-grown diamonds can be positive for<br />

the market. It is here and going to stay and it will<br />

attract younger people who can’t afford natural<br />

diamonds or are intimidated by it. However, later<br />

in their life, when they get engaged, they will<br />

prefer natural diamonds<br />

Roland Lorie, IGI<br />

We deal in gemstones of high quality. We source sapphires<br />

from Kashmir, emeralds from Colombia and Zambia<br />

and rubies from Burma and Mozambique. We are only<br />

dealing with higher level clients right now because<br />

the commercial market is very quiet at the moment.<br />

Prices of diamonds are going down. Even in auctions,<br />

gemstones are garnering more prices. So, investors are<br />

looking at buying certified high quality gemstones<br />

oded Shapiro, Shapiro Gems<br />

70 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Show RepoRt<br />

We have been in this business since 2001. We are dealing in<br />

large white diamonds and fancy colour diamonds like blue,<br />

pink, green and yellow.<br />

We also deal in exclusive gemstones like<br />

Burmese rubies, Kashmir, Burmese and Ceylon<br />

sapphires and Colombian emeralds.<br />

We create bespoke jewellery pieces for<br />

clients around the world as well. Over<br />

the past 3 years, we have seen both a<br />

transition in the way business is done as well<br />

as the availability of capital. Early recognition<br />

and adaptability has given us a first mover<br />

advantage with an offering and global clientele that is truly<br />

differentiated. In <strong>2020</strong>, looking at the current global situation<br />

we plan to remain balanced in our approach - lending credit to<br />

select relationship clients, focusing on certain less competitive<br />

business segments, and offering differentiated products. We<br />

don’t want to be everything to everyone. we are confident that<br />

through hard work, determination and focused approach we<br />

will continue to run a successful business.<br />

Chaitanya Vanjara, Sunview<br />

We try to be an all rounder company. We provide<br />

rounds, fancy shapes, fancy colours from small<br />

to big, certified by GIA & HRD. Our specialty<br />

includes baguettes, emerald cuts, tapers<br />

in all sizes in layouts or parcels. We are<br />

a one-stop-shop for a customer. Times<br />

are tough but we are trying to help our<br />

customers as much as we can in terms of price<br />

and service. We have always been service oriented<br />

pascal Szwarcenberg, Rubin & Zonen<br />

We deal in all kinds of<br />

goods from 0.5 point all<br />

the way up to 50-100 cts.<br />

But mostly we provide<br />

commercial variety, H<br />

and down - price oriented<br />

goods. We know exactly<br />

what the market wants.<br />

We have the right goods<br />

and we understand the<br />

kind of service they want.<br />

It is easy for customers<br />

to work with us as we<br />

are very flexible with<br />

our services. <strong>2020</strong> has<br />

been a good start for<br />

Anita Diamonds, a lot<br />

of demand from many<br />

new markets. We are also<br />

very careful about the<br />

prices, which is why we<br />

are getting business. With<br />

right prices, it is easy for<br />

customers to have the<br />

right margins to survive in<br />

the business. There is no<br />

shortage in the market, if<br />

you have the right goods<br />

in the right prices, you<br />

can do well<br />

Chirag Shah, Anita<br />

Diamonds BVBA<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 71


Hot off tHe Press<br />

<strong>DW</strong>’s Fav<br />

New stores, jewellery, trends, appointments & more<br />

What? Tiffany’s Temp<br />

Store is the Coolest<br />

1 2<br />

And… The doors open to The Tiffany<br />

Flagship Next Door, marking the beginning<br />

of Tiffany & Co.’s journey to transform<br />

its iconic New York flagship store,<br />

which will redefine the modern luxury<br />

experience. Located at the adjacent 6<br />

East 57th Street, this location will serve<br />

as Tiffany’s New York City flagship<br />

store until the transformation of 727<br />

Fifth Avenue is complete in late 2021.<br />

Customers will encounter an atmosphere<br />

that feels familiar, yet refreshed. The store<br />

is designed around a vaulted, escalatorflanked<br />

atrium and retains a playful,<br />

fun look with a modernized attitude.<br />

Combining naïve materials like concrete<br />

and stainless steel with amazing nickel and<br />

Art Deco cases inspired by the original<br />

store. Tiffany brand codes are presented<br />

throughout the store in unexpected ways,<br />

from wood paneling with Tiffany’s Flora<br />

and Fauna motif stenciled onto crates,<br />

to Tiffany’s signature Wheat Leaf motif<br />

reimagined as a ‘Color Block’ painted<br />

feature wall. Each floor offers a unique<br />

visual concept that complements its<br />

contents and embraces the experimental<br />

nature of the space with whimsical nods to<br />

its impermanence.<br />

What? Marc<br />

Hruschka, CEO<br />

& President,<br />

Graff USA<br />

And… Marc Hruschka joins<br />

Graff to take charge of Graff’s<br />

stores in New York, Chicago, San<br />

Francisco, and Miami. He joins<br />

the luxury jewellery brand in its<br />

60th anniversary. Hruschka brings<br />

with him more than 25 years of<br />

experience in various luxury brands<br />

like Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels,<br />

Cartier, Montblanc and Chanel,<br />

John Hardy and Tiffany & Co. He<br />

will be reporting to Francois Graff,<br />

Global CEO.<br />

72 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Hot off tHe Press<br />

What? Rock & Diamonds<br />

by Roberto Coin<br />

3<br />

And… To rock means to be vibrant and alive, to know how to mix grace<br />

with irreverence. Rock and Diamonds is dedicated to those women who<br />

can wear an evening gown with a leather jacket – women who dress in<br />

contradictions and are able to dominate them both with elegance. Roberto<br />

Coin’s rock collection is the first to combine studs of gold and jade with the<br />

pure brilliance of diamonds. The design is meticulous. No coloured stones<br />

or variations in shape are allowed. The same concept is repeated over and<br />

over like a musical motif, sexy when it plays with the sinuousness of the<br />

bracelets and rings and astute in the combination of earrings.<br />

What? Bill Porter<br />

at the Grammy’s<br />

4<br />

And… Billy Porter brought disco style to the<br />

Grammys red carpet donning a jewel-encrusted<br />

spider bracelet that perfectly matched the Pose<br />

star’s sequined teal ensemble. He accessorized<br />

it with over $2 million worth<br />

of Tiffany & Co. diamonds,<br />

including an $11,000<br />

diamond pinky<br />

ring in the<br />

shape of a<br />

disco ball, as<br />

an ode to his<br />

new “disco<br />

era.”<br />

What? WJA’s March<br />

is Me Month<br />

5<br />

And… The Women’s Jewelry Association<br />

(WJA) announced a new, industry-wide<br />

marketing initiative March is Me Month to<br />

align with International Women’s Day, March 8,<br />

<strong>2020</strong>. This annual initiative will be supported<br />

by many of the biggest names in jewellery and<br />

watch manufacturing and retail. The campaign<br />

was developed by over 30 members of WJA<br />

Women’s Executive Leadership Forum, who<br />

initially met in New York City on March 8,<br />

2019. One of the goals developed out of the<br />

meeting included building purposeful and<br />

strong partnerships across the jewellery and<br />

watch industries in order to prepare for the<br />

future of jewellery retail and the rise of the<br />

female self-purchaser.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 73


Trade Fair<br />

Vicenzaoro<br />

Vicenzaoro<br />

January - A<br />

Crowd Pleaser!<br />

Jewellery’s most awaited destination,<br />

Vincenzaoro saw a spectacular success at<br />

its January edition<br />

Interconnections with the world<br />

market, strategic cultural content,<br />

creativity, innovation, training,<br />

design, territory: a total of 1,500<br />

exhibitors, over 35,000 visitors (the<br />

highest number in the last 10 years) and<br />

over 40 events with the participation of<br />

leading jewellery institutions and the<br />

most well-known global brands.<br />

This is the snapshot of VOJ -<br />

Vicenzaoro January <strong>2020</strong> “The<br />

Jewellery Boutique Show®” and<br />

T.GOLD, the international show for<br />

jewellery machinery and technologies<br />

applied to gold and jewellery<br />

78 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Trade Fair<br />

processing, taken on the last day of<br />

the two shows. Running alongside<br />

VOJ and T.GOLD was VO Vintage, the<br />

new exclusive marketplace for vintage<br />

watches and jewellery, which made<br />

its debut, meeting with the satisfied<br />

consent of the traditional public and<br />

the community of enthusiasts and<br />

collectors.<br />

Organized by IEG - Italian Exhibition<br />

Group at the Expo Centre in Vicenza,<br />

the centrality of VOJ20 and T.GOLD<br />

in terms of business and overall<br />

promotional appeal was appreciated<br />

by the global jewellery sector: not only<br />

new ideas and trends in terms of style<br />

and creation by top brands but also<br />

in terms of technological, sales and<br />

distribution services and digitalization.<br />

The increase in the number of visitors<br />

confirmed the positive trend of foreign<br />

incoming from over 126 countries<br />

worldwide, covering an overall 60 per<br />

cent of the total. And Italy’s figure was<br />

also positive, taking on renewed shine<br />

with +12 per cent.<br />

To be precise, the United States<br />

headed the chart of the most represented<br />

foreign states with an extraordinary<br />

+30 per cent compared to 2019. Japan<br />

(+22 per cent) confirmed the growing<br />

interest of the strategic markets for<br />

Made in Italy manufacture, as did the<br />

Middle East (+6per cent overall). Asia<br />

and the Far East recorded +4per cent<br />

combined. The macro-region of Africa<br />

stood at +7 per cent. Russia also began<br />

to increase with +6 per cent.<br />

The number of visitors from Europe,<br />

which amounts to about 50per cent of<br />

the foreign attendance at Vicenzaoro,<br />

was up +9per cent more than the double<br />

figure increase of 2019, with particular<br />

increases from German-speaking<br />

countries. Vicenzaoro, despite market<br />

turbulence, confirmed its appeal for<br />

world traders and its strategic relevance<br />

due to its ability to offer the sector<br />

all types of technological innovation<br />

and design, connect the entire supply<br />

chain, provide inspiration and the tools<br />

to develop business.<br />

The partnerships with ICE – the<br />

Agency that promotes Italian companies<br />

and their internationalization abroad<br />

– and the Ministy of Foreign Affairs<br />

for the “Prima” project, sponsored<br />

by Confindustria Federorafi,<br />

Confartigianato, Confimi Industria<br />

gold and silver division and CNA,<br />

contributed enormously to the success<br />

of the show. Agenzia ICE also promoted<br />

specific activities on the United States’<br />

market which were triggered by 120<br />

B2B meetings at Vicenzaoro between<br />

buyers from large-scale retail in<br />

America and Italian companies, as well<br />

as the presence of start-up companies<br />

through the StartUp & Carats project.<br />

Priority topics for IEG were<br />

sustainability, creativity and innovation,<br />

which opened the calendar of events<br />

with the VISIO.NEXT focus entitled<br />

“The future of jewellery”, which took<br />

place thanks to collaboration with Club<br />

degli Orafi Italy and was attended by<br />

Confindustria Moda and brands of<br />

such calibre as Bulgari, De Beers and<br />

Vhernier. The conference organized<br />

by CJBIO – the World Jewellery<br />

Confederation then took an in-depth<br />

look at the ability of SMEs to introduce<br />

sustainable processes and procedures.<br />

The territory played an essential<br />

role in making the international buyers<br />

happy: the hospitality that the city of<br />

Vicenza reserved for its guests with<br />

VIOFF “The Golden Factor”, the<br />

VicenzaOro Off Show event devised<br />

by Vicenza Council together with<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 79


Trade Fair<br />

IEG and the involvement of economic<br />

categories, received unanimous<br />

approval, upholding the value of<br />

our Italian patrimony of beauty and<br />

know-how as well as putting students<br />

into contact with sector companies at<br />

training encounters and school and<br />

career orientation meetings.<br />

Stephen Lussier, Executive Vice-<br />

President Consumer and Brands at De<br />

Beers Group, who outlined the emerging<br />

trends to watch out for in order to satisfy<br />

the taste of young consumers said, “The<br />

concept of luxury, which once, besides<br />

quality, evoked exclusiveness and<br />

social status” he said, “now continues<br />

to speak of quality but the artisan kind,<br />

one that must inspire inclusiveness and<br />

a social purpose.” The new consumers<br />

want to know that they are contributing<br />

to resolving a problem, not creating<br />

one, even when they buy jewellery.”<br />

The question of sustainability<br />

was dealt with by Eleonora Rizzuto,<br />

Sustainable Development Manager at<br />

Bulgari & LVMH Italia, underlining<br />

how it is not possible to ignore the<br />

coexistence of its three economic,<br />

social and environmental aspects. Hers<br />

was an appeal to explore synergies that<br />

can be generated along the gold and<br />

jewellery production chain, according<br />

to the principle of circular economy.<br />

“Let’s imagine a future made of bridges<br />

able to make different industries<br />

communicate. Jewellery can lead,<br />

for example, to links to the textile or<br />

food industries in the area where it is<br />

produced. It is an optimistic outlook,<br />

and the only one able to see our era<br />

from the perspective of progress.”<br />

For Isabella Traglio, Deputy Director<br />

General Vhernier, the key element for<br />

creating a relevant and contemporary<br />

jewellery item is creativity, the ability<br />

to experiment and allowing ourselves<br />

to be inspired “by what is happening<br />

around us and by observing our<br />

customers but with a more watchful<br />

eye on those who are not. In this way<br />

you can see the trends that are guiding<br />

the new generations’ choices: multifunctionality,<br />

the non-binary choice<br />

that interprets the freedom to be<br />

yourself, recognizability.”<br />

Claudio Marenzi, CEO at Herno<br />

S.p.A. and President of Confindustria<br />

Moda, called for systemization<br />

and invited companies to aim at<br />

sustainability. Remembering the size of<br />

the fashion system, which is the second<br />

largest manufacturing industry in Italy<br />

and represents 44 per cent of the entire<br />

fashion and accessory industry in<br />

Europe, underlined how Made in Italy<br />

boasts numerous virtuous examples<br />

that do not, however, communicate<br />

effectively. “We must put our heads<br />

together to create quality products. We<br />

must aim at beautiful and well done,<br />

at inclusive excellence where the<br />

relationship between value and object<br />

must be long-lasting.”<br />

The next appointments on IEG’s<br />

Jewellery Agenda: OROAREZZO from<br />

18th to 21st April <strong>2020</strong>, Vicenzaoro<br />

September from 5th to 9th September<br />

<strong>2020</strong> and VOD Dubai International<br />

Jewellery Show in the autumn.<br />

80 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


In ConversatIon<br />

Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice<br />

President & Chief Laboratory and<br />

Research Officer<br />

Promoting<br />

Transparency All<br />

the Way<br />

Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice President &<br />

Chief Laboratory and Research Officer speaks to<br />

Diamond World about Diamond Origin Report<br />

and why it is relevant given the current context<br />

and the response it has garnered from the<br />

stakeholders in the diamond value chain<br />

Launched in 2019, the GIA<br />

Diamond Origin Report uses<br />

scientific evaluation to match a<br />

polished diamond to its original rough,<br />

providing confirmation of the origin<br />

information provided by the diamond<br />

mining company. This report includes<br />

information that helps consumers<br />

understand the positive social and<br />

economic impact that mined diamonds<br />

have for the countries and communities<br />

that produce them. As the world<br />

leader in gemological research, GIA is<br />

uniquely able to leverage over 60 years<br />

of scientific knowledge and technology<br />

to deliver the rough-to-polish matching<br />

confirmation for polished stones. GIA<br />

collects data and images for rough<br />

analysis. Once GIA receives the<br />

polished diamond, GIA uses markers<br />

and data identified during the analysis<br />

of the rough to scientifically match the<br />

polished diamond to its original rough,<br />

confirming the diamond’s country of<br />

origin.<br />

What has been the response for<br />

DOR in India?<br />

We’ve received great interest in GIA’s<br />

Diamond Origin Report. Several<br />

diamond and jewellery manufacturers,<br />

wholesalers and retailers have shown<br />

interest in participating in the program.<br />

In the coming months, we see significant<br />

potential for demand for the Diamond<br />

Origin Report in the Indian market.<br />

Why is knowing the origin of<br />

diamonds more relevant and<br />

important today than before?<br />

Traceability is the first step in<br />

sustainability and understanding that a<br />

diamond was mined responsibly. When<br />

you buy a diamond of known origin,<br />

you can understand the positive impact<br />

your purchase has on the development<br />

of that country’s local communities.<br />

You are not only helping people thrive,<br />

but also helping to build infrastructure,<br />

educate young people, and bring health<br />

systems to whole populations.<br />

Consumers today are increasingly<br />

interested in knowing about the origin<br />

of the goods they buy. This is certainly<br />

true for diamonds as well. Another<br />

interesting aspect of today’s consumer<br />

is that they respond well to storytelling.<br />

To be able to tell this story to<br />

consumers, GIA understood that the we<br />

needed to talk about the good diamonds<br />

do in an effective and accurate manner.<br />

Retailers who carry diamonds with GIA<br />

Diamond Origin Reports get Diamond<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 81


In ConversatIon<br />

Origin Books – one for each country of<br />

origin, be it Botswana, Canada, Russia<br />

or South Africa.<br />

The Diamond Origin book for Botswana,<br />

for example, talks about how the<br />

diamond industry has built hospitals,<br />

schools and roads, transforming<br />

Botswana into one of Africa’s most<br />

prosperous countries. Literacy rates<br />

have reached above 80 per cent, and<br />

healthcare and compulsory primary<br />

education are free. Over 90 per cent<br />

of the population has access to clean<br />

drinking water and electricity, and<br />

the country has more than 9,000<br />

kilometres of paved road today. With<br />

approximately 20 per cent of its<br />

population employed by the diamond<br />

industry, Botswana and the diamond<br />

industry have created a middle class<br />

and produced a stable economy.<br />

How is the Diamond Origin report<br />

different from blockchain and<br />

other provenance programs?<br />

The service does not currently utilise<br />

blockchain or other digital tracking<br />

mechanism, but instead relies on GIA’s<br />

matching process. While blockchain<br />

provides a means of logging<br />

transactional data, it requires<br />

meticulous transactional<br />

recording at each step in<br />

the process. As long as the<br />

participants in the chain are<br />

diligent in entering data in the<br />

Blockchain platform, the data<br />

should be reliable.<br />

GIA continues<br />

to explore<br />

enhancing<br />

its service<br />

offerings through<br />

many technologies. GIA continues to<br />

investigate the efficacy of blockchain<br />

and whether it is appropriate for GIA<br />

reports and services, including the<br />

Diamond Origin Report.<br />

Can you tell us how stakeholders<br />

in the diamond value chain<br />

(manufacturers and retailers) be a<br />

part of this program?<br />

The programme is open to the industry.<br />

Interested businesses can contact<br />

us and we will provide them the<br />

information to participate as a diamond<br />

or jewellery manufacturer, wholesaler<br />

or retailer. Currently, there are mine<br />

operators, manufacturers, wholesalers,<br />

and retailers participating in the<br />

programme and the list continues to<br />

grow. GIA maintains a list of<br />

participants on its website to connect<br />

participating miners, manufacturers,<br />

wholesalers and retailers. This ensures<br />

that expertly graded natural diamonds<br />

that have been matched to rough of<br />

know origin reach the end consumer.<br />

Retailers and wholesalers desiring<br />

to purchase and offer diamonds with<br />

origin reports may visit our website,<br />

GIAindia.<br />

in/diamondorigin-report,<br />

to find the<br />

manufacturer<br />

participants<br />

listed there. There’s a good chance that<br />

an existing supplier may already be a<br />

part of the programme. If not, they can<br />

contact GIA and we will work with their<br />

existing polished diamond suppliers to<br />

explain the programme to help them<br />

find the right provider.<br />

In addition, retailers can review<br />

sample collateral and point-of-sale<br />

(POS) materials from GIA to help<br />

them develop an in-store programme.<br />

Retailers can also review training<br />

materials from GIA regarding<br />

communicating and promoting the<br />

programme to consumers. Also,<br />

retailers can register on the free GIA<br />

Retailer Lookup so consumers can find<br />

retailers that carry diamonds with GIA<br />

Diamond Origin Report easily.<br />

The industry today is in a constant<br />

flux - conditions haven’t really<br />

improved over the last few months<br />

and a recent report by Bloomberg<br />

suggests that this lull in the industry<br />

is going to continue for sometime<br />

- do you believe this is true? If so,<br />

where did we go wrong and how do<br />

we redeem ourselves?<br />

It is important to engage in telling the<br />

story of diamonds. Formed billions<br />

of years ago deep within the earth,<br />

diamonds have a fascinating story to<br />

tell about the formation of our planet.<br />

In addition, diamonds have aa positive<br />

in the local mining communities. In<br />

addition, diamond merchants and<br />

jewellers in India support health and<br />

education causes. I believe bringing all<br />

these together and presenting a story<br />

will help generate interest and engage<br />

with consumers.<br />

82 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


IJ AwArds<br />

9th Edition JJS- IJ Jewellers Choice Design Awards<br />

IJ Hosts a Successful<br />

9th Edition of JJS- IJ Jewellers<br />

Choice Design Awards<br />

Indian Jeweller (IJ) hosted a one-of-a-kind glittering award<br />

ceremony the “JJS-IJ Jewellers’ Choice Design Awards 2019”, this<br />

time at the convention centre in JECC<br />

Alok Kala, Publisher, Indian Jeweller<br />

IJ Awards entered its 9th year<br />

and was bigger and better this<br />

year! 24 select participants were<br />

awarded for their outstanding designs<br />

in respective categories<br />

Manufacturers, retailers and<br />

designers from across the country had<br />

submitted their designs under various<br />

categories and price points for review<br />

and selection. The competition required<br />

manufacturers, designers and retailers<br />

to submit their best designs across<br />

21categories. The winning pieces from<br />

over 600 + entries were reviewed and<br />

chosen by an eminent Jury Panel.<br />

The host of the show Sumona<br />

Chakravarthy of the Kapil Sharma show<br />

fame kept the audience in rapt attention<br />

with her quick delivery and wit. Noted<br />

film star Vaani Kapoor was the Chief<br />

Guest for the evening who presented<br />

the awards to the winners. Prominent<br />

people present at the award ceremony<br />

were Nirupa Bhatt, Managing Director<br />

84 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


IJ AwArds<br />

Compere Sumona Chakravarthy<br />

Film Star Vaani Kapoor<br />

of GIA India & Middle East, Rajiv<br />

Jain, Secretary, JJS, Saankar Sen, Vice<br />

Chairman, GJC, Ramesh Narang from<br />

Hazoorilal Legacy and Vijay Khanna<br />

from Khanna Jewellers amongst others.<br />

Alok Kala, Publisher and Editor,<br />

Indian Jeweller said, “Design is of<br />

paramount importance in jewellery<br />

and our objective with this event is<br />

to encourage the design fraternity. As<br />

each year passes by, we only want to<br />

outdo ourselves.”<br />

Comedian Kiku Sharda performing his act<br />

Comedian Kiku Sharda kept<br />

the audience in splits at the show<br />

with his addictive humour. Some of<br />

the prominent winners at the show<br />

were Khurana Jewellery House,<br />

which bagged two awards Pantone<br />

Colour of the Year 2019 and<br />

Statement Jewellery and Birdhichand<br />

Ghanshyamdas, Jaipur for Statement<br />

Jewellery. Tara Fine Jewels won the<br />

award for Heritage Jewellery above Rs<br />

5 Lakhs while Achal Jewels won the<br />

award for Heritage Jewels under Rs<br />

5 Lakhs. Manish Malhotra Jewellery<br />

by Raniwala 1881won the award for<br />

Red Carpet Jewellery & KK Jewels<br />

won the award for Best Accessory.<br />

Manoharlal Jewellers won the award<br />

for Transformative Jewellery. Winners<br />

for Best Cut Gemstone under 10ct was<br />

Jaipur Johri and between 10-20 ct was<br />

Canarys, Jaipur.<br />

The awards night brought<br />

forth a wonderful opportunity for<br />

manufacturers, retailers and designers<br />

of India, to showcase their talent,<br />

creativity and products through its<br />

unique platform. Powered by GIA, the<br />

IJ Awards is presented by JJS. The other<br />

partners include Hari Krishna Group as<br />

Diamond Jewellery Category Partner,<br />

Raniwala 1881 as Heritage Jewellery<br />

Category Partner, Jaipur Ratna by Anuj<br />

Gems & Jewellery as Best Necklace<br />

Design Category Partner, Radhika<br />

Jewels as Temple Jewellery Category<br />

Partner, BVC Logistics as Logistics<br />

Partner, Vasansi Jaipur as Ethnic Wear<br />

Partner, and CNBC Awaaz as Television<br />

Partner while Pema Wellness as the<br />

Wellness Partner and Diamond World<br />

magazine is the Media Partner.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 85


Special Feature<br />

Bridal diamond<br />

jewellery trends<br />

What<br />

Brides<br />

Want?<br />

With the ongoing<br />

wedding season, we<br />

wanted to understand<br />

how diamond jewellery<br />

is fairing across India.<br />

With gold prices<br />

skyrocketing and a shift<br />

in consumer preference,<br />

diamonds are still very<br />

much in vogue, albeit<br />

in a lighter and a much<br />

stylised avatar<br />

From recessions due to<br />

coronavirus to the latest union<br />

budget, a lot has happened<br />

in the first month of this brand new<br />

year. However, the wedding season<br />

is sure to give jewellers some respite,<br />

as diamonds are an integral part of<br />

weddings in India. Perhaps, the way in<br />

which brides were their diamonds has<br />

changed, but the fact of the matter is,<br />

they are very much still a bride’s best<br />

friend. We spoke to jewellers from<br />

North, South, East and West, and here’s<br />

what they had to say about what brides<br />

are looking at this wedding season.<br />

NORTH<br />

It all comes<br />

down to the<br />

illusion<br />

Today, cost effectiveness of<br />

the products matters the<br />

most. People in the north<br />

are opting for pieces that look big<br />

but aren’t necessarily heavy. They<br />

want the appearance of a 10 ct set<br />

which is in reality is a 5 ct one.<br />

“These days, customers are mostly<br />

inclined towards light-weight sets<br />

such as removable pendants that<br />

can be converted into earrings for<br />

later use,” says Akshay Verma of<br />

Verma Jewellers, Solan, Himachal<br />

Pradesh. Tanmaniya Mangalsutras<br />

are trending big time and when it<br />

comes to engagement rings, men prefer<br />

platinum bands or white gold bands<br />

with 30-70 pointers and women prefer<br />

minimum 1 ct in fancy cuts. “After<br />

gold prices shot up, people now prefer<br />

diamond jewellery and the sales have<br />

gone up, earrings, rings, small pendant<br />

sets depending upon the budget. For<br />

gifting, people prefer to spend approx<br />

50k to a lakh,” adds Verma.<br />

After gold prices shot<br />

up, people now prefer<br />

diamond jewellery and<br />

the sales have gone up,<br />

earrings, rings, small<br />

pendant sets depending<br />

upon the budget. For<br />

gifting, people prefer to<br />

spend approx 50k to a<br />

lakh<br />

akshay Verma, Verma<br />

Jewellers<br />

86 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Special Feature<br />

We are easily selling 70<br />

pointer upwards to a carat or<br />

two these days in rings. We<br />

have a conservative market<br />

out here. People prefer<br />

smaller items in gifting such<br />

as studs, smaller earrings<br />

etc. Pendant sets and<br />

bracelets are also popular<br />

styles for gifting<br />

rajnish Verma, Punjab<br />

Jewellers<br />

New-age brides are practical<br />

Brides are bidding goodbye to heavy diamond jewellery, they want practical<br />

pieces. They are going in for larger stones in larger sizes than -2, -4 sizes.<br />

Elaborate sets are also not selling since people prefer simpler sets with<br />

straight lines but with larger stones. Chokers have gone out of style, but necklaces<br />

in general are still in vogue. They are looking for classier stuff, something that<br />

can last them for years. They want pieces that they can carry off for the next 20<br />

years. “Traditional bangles are done and dusted; people are now looking for more<br />

intricate and fancier shapes and designs. Bracelets have become more practical<br />

and versatile to wear. We are easily selling 70 pointer upwards to a carat or two<br />

these days in rings. We have a conservative market out here. People prefer smaller<br />

items in gifting such as studs, earrings, smaller earrings etc. Pendant sets and<br />

bracelets are also popular styles for gifting . Even men prefer bands rather than<br />

big bulky rings. We also have customers asking for diamond jewellery sets with<br />

coloured stones,” adds Rajnish Verma of Punjab Jewellers, Dehradun.<br />

Multipurpose jewellery on the rise<br />

More and more people are<br />

now looking for lightweight<br />

jewellery these<br />

days in diamonds, especially in<br />

smaller stones. The focus is more<br />

on design and fashion rather than<br />

weight. Especially if the customer is<br />

young, they want fashionable pieces<br />

when it comes to bridal jewellery.<br />

Heavy weight jewellery in this time<br />

and age only draws attention from old<br />

people, younger folks prefer sleeker<br />

look for their big day or everyday<br />

accessories. Another jewellery trend<br />

that has become people’s favourite is<br />

multipurpose jewellery. “Brides prefer<br />

diamond earrings, platinum band,<br />

solitaires and light-weight sets these<br />

days. When it comes to gifting, people<br />

prefer gold over diamonds. For men,<br />

platinum sale is on the rise. Colourful<br />

jewellery is another thing people are<br />

opting for along with diamonds,” says<br />

Yogesh Gupta of Lala Purshottam Das<br />

Jewellers.<br />

Brides prefer diamond<br />

earrings, platinum band,<br />

solitaires and lightweight<br />

sets these days.<br />

When it comes to gifting,<br />

people prefer gold over<br />

diamonds<br />

Yogesh Gupta, Lala<br />

Purshottam Das<br />

Jewellers<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 87


Special Feature<br />

SOUTH<br />

Brides love bling<br />

In bridal jewellery, the younger<br />

generation is more into rings, tops,<br />

pendants etc. In the south, long<br />

chains are more in demand especially in a<br />

set with choker, bangles and earrings. Hair<br />

accessories is yet another thing people<br />

like to wear in south Indian weddings<br />

and these days they like the accessory to<br />

be in diamonds instead of gold. “Earlier,<br />

the trend was to buy gold pieces, however,<br />

now the trend is changing and people<br />

are looking forward to buying diamond<br />

jewellery and incorporating one or two<br />

pieces of the same to their bridal looks.<br />

Mid-level customers prefer carat sizes<br />

from .50 to 1 ct and for people with more<br />

disposable income one cannot predict, as<br />

they could buy anything over and above 1<br />

ct ,” says Joy Alukkas of Joyalukkas.<br />

Earlier, the trend was to buy gold<br />

pieces, however, now the trend is<br />

changing and people are looking<br />

forward to buying diamond<br />

jewellery and incorporating<br />

one or two pieces of the same<br />

to their bridal looks. Mid-level<br />

customers prefer carat sizes from<br />

.50 to 1 ct and for people with<br />

more disposable income one<br />

cannot predict, as they could buy<br />

anything over and above 1 ct<br />

Joy alukkas, Joyalukkas<br />

Under 1 ct diamond rings<br />

for the win<br />

The new-age brides in<br />

the south are informed<br />

jewellery buyers. They<br />

always look for wearability, quality<br />

and above all a reflection of their<br />

individual style statement while<br />

buying jewellery. As a result, they<br />

now prefer to include diamond<br />

jewellery in their bridal ensemble.<br />

Lightweight and delicate<br />

necklaces, diamond earrings,<br />

diamond mangalsutra, diamond<br />

rings and diamond bangles are in<br />

the demand at the moment. “We<br />

have witnessed sizeable demand<br />

for diamond necklaces in the<br />

recent past, as they act as a graceful<br />

style statement on the D-Day.<br />

Engagement rings under 1 ct size<br />

are in demand at the moment. As<br />

India is a gold consuming nation,<br />

Light & Breezy<br />

the demand for gold jewellery will<br />

always be there. However, due<br />

to evolving fashion sensibilities,<br />

there is a consumer segment<br />

emerging in the country which<br />

is showing inclination towards<br />

buying diamond jewellery,” says<br />

Ahammed MP of Malabar Gold &<br />

Diamonds.<br />

We have witnessed<br />

sizeable demand for<br />

diamond necklaces in the<br />

recent past, as they act as<br />

a graceful style statement<br />

on the D-Day. Engagement<br />

rings under 1 ct size are in<br />

demand at the moment<br />

ahammed Mp, Malabar<br />

Gold & Diamonds<br />

Southern brides these days prefer smaller jewellery pieces with the<br />

rise in the price of gold. People are spending less these days so<br />

with less budget, they can afford to buy light-weight jewellery.<br />

“Earlier for weddings, consumers would come looking for heavy jewellery<br />

but nowadays they have become extremely confused in buying jewellery.<br />

They don’t spend like earlier. The average budget for a piece of diamond<br />

jewellery is 1 to 2 lakhs and with engagement rings, they prefer buying<br />

50 cent rings ,” adds Varghese Alukka of Jos Alukkas.<br />

Earlier for weddings, consumers would come looking<br />

for heavy jewellery but nowadays they don’t spend<br />

like earlier. The average budget for a piece of diamond<br />

jewellery is 1 to 2 lakhs and with engagement rings, they<br />

prefer buying 50 cent rings<br />

Varghese alukka, Jos Alukkas<br />

88 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Special Feature<br />

WEST<br />

Subtle says it all<br />

Necklaces, especially the<br />

lightweight ones are trending<br />

as far as brides in the west are<br />

concerned. “Precious setting jewellery<br />

has caught the eye of the consumer<br />

where the piece gives the illusion of a<br />

solitaire but isn’t actually a solitaire.<br />

Then there are delusional settings,<br />

which are also gaining popularity,<br />

where the diamond that is set on gold<br />

frame is not seen properly as it merges<br />

with the necklace or sometimes a<br />

dress. These are done for customers<br />

who prefer elegance over flashy pieces<br />

as they want the diamond set to look<br />

subtle,” adds Siddharth Bafna of R C<br />

Bafna Jewellers. Brides also like to<br />

go for multipurpose jewellery these<br />

days, which requires a great deal of<br />

craftsmanship. “Engagement rings sale<br />

generally starts from 40 cents these<br />

days as very few clients come looking<br />

for 1 or 2 ct diamond rings. For gifting<br />

purposes, clients look for charms or<br />

rings. They don’t want to spend on<br />

something traditional when it comes to<br />

gifting,” adds Bafna.<br />

Precious setting<br />

jewellery has caught<br />

the eye of the consumer<br />

where the piece gives<br />

the illusion of a solitaire<br />

but isn’t actually a<br />

solitaire. Then there<br />

are delusional settings,<br />

which are also gaining<br />

popularity, where the<br />

diamond that is set on<br />

gold frame is not seen<br />

properly as it merges<br />

with the necklace or<br />

sometimes a dress<br />

Siddharth Bafna, RC<br />

Bafna Jewellers<br />

Diamonds in<br />

fusion<br />

These days, brides from metros<br />

prefer more coloured stones like<br />

ruby, emerald and sapphire.<br />

“Brides prefer colour stones, however,<br />

fusion diamond jewellery is always a<br />

favourite. Planned purchases include<br />

chokers and necklaces. In engagement<br />

rings, people like to shuffle between 50<br />

cent to 1 ct. Multipurpose jewellery is<br />

also in trend as people want jewellery<br />

that is not heavy and they can wear<br />

it for multiple occasions. They want<br />

something they can wear on a day to day<br />

basis as well,” says Mahesh Jagwani of<br />

Mahesh Notandas Fine Jewellery.<br />

Planned purchases include<br />

chokers and necklaces. In<br />

engagement rings, people<br />

like to shuffle between 50<br />

cent to 1 ct. Multipurpose<br />

jewellery is also in trend as<br />

people want jewellery that is<br />

not heavy and they can wear<br />

it for multiple occasions<br />

Mahesh Jagwani, Mahesh<br />

Notandas Fine Jewellery<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 89


Special Feature<br />

EAST<br />

Diamonds good for gifting<br />

In Kolkata, diamond jewellery is the<br />

most versatile for wedding purpose.<br />

It goes with everything and a bride<br />

can choose anything from a simple<br />

and elegant necklace to a much more<br />

bolder and exquisite piece. These days<br />

even for Christian weddings, diamond<br />

jewellery is preferred. “Buyers mostly<br />

prefer 1-1.5 ct in diamond rings. It is<br />

mostly preferred because it is neither<br />

too small nor too gaudy. Also, lightweight<br />

and multipurpose jewellery is<br />

trending right now. They are also a good<br />

gifting option as it is budget friendly<br />

and stylish. People still gift diamond<br />

jewellery, because it serves as an asset<br />

too. The products depend on the budget<br />

of a buyer. Diamond chains/earrings<br />

are doing well mostly because they<br />

come under all budgets and for all age<br />

groups. Also diamond band rings do<br />

well because as they can be customised<br />

and also are unisex,” says Abhishek<br />

Kajaria of Avama Jewellers.<br />

Buyers mostly prefer<br />

1-1.5 ct in diamond<br />

rings. It is mostly<br />

preferred because it<br />

is neither too small<br />

nor too gaudy. Also,<br />

light-weight and<br />

multipurpose jewellery<br />

is trending right now.<br />

They are also a good<br />

gifting option as it is<br />

budget friendly and<br />

stylish<br />

abhishek Kajaria,<br />

Avama Jewellers.<br />

90 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Special Feature<br />

Accessories<br />

with diamonds<br />

are in<br />

Chokers and diamond<br />

heavy polki necklaces<br />

are moving very fast<br />

this wedding season. For brides,<br />

bracelets and bangles have stopped<br />

being in demand off late. “These<br />

days, brides prefer detachable sets<br />

and those pieces are very high in<br />

demand. For engagement rings,<br />

people like anything between<br />

.70 to 1 ct or 1.5 ct. Men like to<br />

go for solitaire or a simple band.<br />

Nowadays, customised name<br />

button covers and cufflinks set<br />

with diamonds are also trending for<br />

gifting purpose. Pendants, chains<br />

and bracelets are done and dusted<br />

and people are looking for new<br />

things like tie-pins or something<br />

new and fresh to gift,” says Vikash<br />

Soni of L Gopal Jewellers.<br />

Diamond bangles off the radar<br />

“Brides of today are well educated.<br />

They have started taking their own<br />

decision in life so it has become<br />

more imperative for us to provide<br />

them with more trendy and lightweight<br />

jewellery for their everyday purpose,”<br />

says Pintu Agarwal of Panna Diamond<br />

World. A bride doesn’t want to keep her<br />

jewellery in the locker these days; they<br />

want to wear their jewellery on a day to<br />

day basis. “Jewellery below 5-10 lakhs<br />

has become a trend. Smaller stones are<br />

in demand and the bigger shapes are<br />

only restricted to a certain segment of<br />

the society. Bangles have completely<br />

gone off the radar since watches sale<br />

has peaked. Bracelets are something<br />

people prefer to buy in my stores these<br />

days. When it comes to caratage of<br />

engagement rings, people prefer below<br />

10-15 ct. The market has completely<br />

changed and people prefer pieces that<br />

look western. Traditional, Indian pieces<br />

are restricted to a few families these<br />

days,” adds Agarwal.<br />

Smaller stones are<br />

in demand and the<br />

bigger shapes are only<br />

restricted to a certain<br />

segment of the society.<br />

Bangles have completely<br />

gone off the radar since<br />

watches sale has peaked.<br />

Bracelets are something<br />

people prefer to buy in<br />

my stores these days<br />

pintu agarwal, Panna<br />

Diamond World<br />

These days, brides prefer<br />

detachable sets and those<br />

pieces are very high in<br />

demand. For engagement<br />

rings, people like anything<br />

between .70 to 1 ct or<br />

1.5 ct. Men like to go for<br />

solitaire or a simple band.<br />

Nowadays, customised<br />

name button covers and<br />

cufflinks set with diamonds<br />

are also trending for gifting<br />

purpose<br />

Vikash Soni, L Gopal<br />

Jewellers<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 91


Special RepoRt<br />

GJSCI India Jewellery Excellence Symposium<br />

Spreading Knowledge &<br />

Technical Know-How<br />

GJSCI’s India Jewellery Excellence Symposium turned out to be an<br />

excellent platform where participants gained a lot of knowledge<br />

about what’s latest in the manufacturing front<br />

India’s first Jewellery Excellence<br />

Symposium organised by GJSCI<br />

held in Mumbai was a big success<br />

where experts from all over the world<br />

where invited to share their knowledge<br />

on various topics<br />

The Indian Jewellery Excellence<br />

Symposium that took place in Mumbai<br />

on January 8 and 9 was nothing short<br />

of an indulging affair. From key note<br />

speakers to renowned jewellers and<br />

retailers, it saw the presence of the<br />

prominent members of the Gems &<br />

Jewellery industry. The event was not<br />

only informative but was also a medium<br />

to enlighten the who’s who in trade on<br />

the pressing issues of the industry and<br />

how we can benefit by sharing gained<br />

knowledge.<br />

Dignitaries from Ministry, NSDC &<br />

Trade Bodies made their significant<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 93


Special RepoRt<br />

presence for the grand inauguration<br />

of the symposium. The inauguration<br />

saw the presence of Chief Guest<br />

– Rupa Dutta, Economic Adviser,<br />

Ministry of Commerce & Industry,<br />

Guest of honour - Manish Kumar, MD<br />

& CEO – National Skill Development<br />

Corporation (NSDC), Pramod Agrawal,<br />

Chairman – Gem & Jewellery Export<br />

Promotion Council (GJEPC), N.<br />

Anantha Padmanabhan, Chairman –<br />

All India Gem & Jewellery Domestic<br />

Council (GJC), GJSCI Chairman,<br />

Sanjay Kothari, and Director, GJSCI<br />

Shishir Nevatia and Executive Director<br />

- CEO, GJSCI, Rajeev Garg. At the<br />

event, Indian and international experts<br />

made presentations on manufacturing<br />

and business best practices to an<br />

exclusive audience comprising owner/<br />

promoters and senior professionals<br />

from across the gems and jewellery<br />

industry. Adapted on the lines of the<br />

Santa Fe Symposium®, the IJES<br />

debut show hosted 22 seminars with<br />

top experts including Frank Cooper,<br />

Deirdre Featherstone, Hemant Shah<br />

and Ravi Giani.<br />

GJSCI chairman Sanjay Kothari<br />

said, “Jewellery Excellence Symposium<br />

is unique, unparalleled and is great<br />

initiative by GJSCI with the support from<br />

various industry partners. Through this<br />

platform, I urge the (jewellery) industry<br />

to learn and improve productivity to be<br />

at par with global standards.” He also<br />

94 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Special RepoRt<br />

shared that knowledge is important and<br />

they aim to up skill the manufacturing<br />

processes and train the people so that<br />

India can eventually start supplying to<br />

top global brands. “We need to up our<br />

game and be globally competitive. Our<br />

ultimate goal is to see India flourish.”<br />

The first edition of India Jewellery<br />

Excellence Symposium recorded a<br />

registration of approximately 300+<br />

delegates representing more than 140<br />

companies all over India. The first<br />

day was entirely engaged with the<br />

sessions led by eminent speakers viz.<br />

Ravi Gilani, Frank Cooper, Ashish<br />

Arora, Dr.Anand Deshpande, Peter<br />

Bubendorfer, Ms. Jill Goodson,<br />

Anikesh Pandey, Ashish Arora, Luigi<br />

Carboni all accomplished names from<br />

the gems and jewellery industry world<br />

over. The second day was equally<br />

exciting delivering various sessions by<br />

renowned experts like Jayant Murthy,<br />

Dierdre Featherstone, Hemant Shah,<br />

GaniIqbal, Meghna Saraogi, Jason<br />

Fava, Soran Jota, Fulvio Sinisi, Dr. Po.<br />

Hung Ko, along with other eminent<br />

speakers.<br />

Talking about innovative 3D<br />

printing, Frank Cooper in his session<br />

shared how one needs to do a lot of<br />

research before investing in a good<br />

machine. “There are very large<br />

numbers of 3D printers available for<br />

the jewellery industry at different price<br />

points.You need to do a lot of research<br />

before investing in a 3D printing<br />

machine. Don’t fall for the cheapest.<br />

3D systems ProJet (multijetting) Prints<br />

directly into photo polymeric resin. If<br />

you use budget machines, surfaces are<br />

usually uneven. The difference comes<br />

through in the finish. On the other hand<br />

Hemant Shah was seen sharing his in<br />

depth knowledge through the medium<br />

of innovation. “There are 4 types of<br />

innovation- incremental, disruptive,<br />

architectural and radical. Out of these,<br />

it is radical innovation that will help<br />

you change the game and achieve<br />

success,” he quipped. Gauge reaction<br />

of your audience and use feedback<br />

received to improve your product and<br />

process, he further added. All the<br />

way from New York, came jewellery<br />

designer Deirdre Featherstone to cast a<br />

spell on the audience. In her session,<br />

she explained the importance of a story<br />

that leads to the construction of a design<br />

that is custom made for your client. “If<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 95


Special RepoRt<br />

expert Quotes<br />

75 per cent of<br />

talent quit their<br />

jobs in the first<br />

year of joining<br />

because they<br />

don’t know<br />

how what they<br />

do contributes to the vision of<br />

the company. Employee needs<br />

are shifting and it’s important to<br />

understand that to attract good<br />

talent. Psychological safety is<br />

more important than monetary,<br />

which is what makes companies<br />

like Google what it is.<br />

ashish arora, MD, HR NXE<br />

No matter<br />

where you are<br />

in the supply<br />

chain, you have<br />

to find a way to<br />

create custom<br />

experience for<br />

your client. The new retailer<br />

comes into business straight<br />

out of college with no inventory<br />

and with the help of digital<br />

inventory, how does he do that?<br />

CAD is the answer; it is the hub<br />

of the wheel.<br />

Jill Goodson, Founding Partner,<br />

Gemally<br />

Your engineers need to have a good grasp of the<br />

technology and how CAD works. Rhino CAD<br />

program is the most popular because it’s the easiest<br />

and cheapest. Matrix is the best program if you<br />

have to show the best rendered image to your<br />

customers. Excellent for setting stones. Design is<br />

parametric and works backwards. Good options<br />

for rendering with even higher quality rendering<br />

options. Brush is very popular and is well worth investigating<br />

especially for sculptural work.<br />

Frank cooper, School of Jewellery, Birmingham<br />

We started off small in the year 1993 in Calicut.<br />

At that time our Chairman had a dream of<br />

opening 100 stores. Today we have 250 stores<br />

globally and around 140 stores internationally.<br />

We have always believed that the day you<br />

believe that you know everything, you know<br />

nothing and the day you feel like you don’t<br />

know everything, you probably know something. It’s been so<br />

many years, but we continue to learn every day.<br />

asher o, Malabar Gold & Diamonds<br />

Jewellery industry needs to innovate and if one<br />

does not innovate, one will always stagnate.<br />

The path to innovation begins with pinpointing<br />

potential. Study and research all aspects like<br />

location, sustainability, cost and so on. Study<br />

the sustainability and acceptability of a product<br />

that you are working on. Only if the project is<br />

commercially viable, is it worth taking it ahead.<br />

Hemant Shah<br />

you work with platinum, you have to<br />

create designs that are timeless. Due<br />

to limited supply of the metal, whatever<br />

you create must be exceptional.<br />

Designing for clients involve listening<br />

to their demands, what they give value<br />

to and giving them what they want but<br />

in your own unique way,” she shared.<br />

Augmented Reality in jewellery<br />

industry was addressed by Meghna<br />

Saraogi, who revealed how one can<br />

reap rewards of the advancement in<br />

technology. “AR helps you to digitise<br />

inventory. It can be shared with people<br />

across the globe with just a click.You<br />

can add real data like gold quality,<br />

diamond data, price etc along with<br />

the jewellery pieces.In a way AR also<br />

detects your emotions as it detects<br />

smile/ frown through face recognition.<br />

Since jewellery is a an emotion based<br />

decision, you can get better insight into<br />

likes and dislikes of consumers through<br />

AR. Consumers have short attention<br />

span and most consumers spend most<br />

time on their phones. A revolutionizing<br />

way for consumers to try on jewellery<br />

from their phones will give people<br />

instant access,” she revealed. ?<br />

IJES indeed turned out to be a onestop<br />

source for bringing together the<br />

industry’s most innovative and diligent<br />

experts to share their ideas, innovations,<br />

best practices, experiences, techniques<br />

and insights on manufacturing<br />

excellence. The event gracefully<br />

concluded felicitating the eminent<br />

speakers & also demonstrated the<br />

commitment of GJSCI to continue IJES<br />

with yet another edition in January<br />

2021.<br />

96 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


<strong>DW</strong> Promotion<br />

Limelight Lab-Grown Diamonds<br />

Pooja Sheth of Limelight Diamonds<br />

receives ET Business Icon award<br />

Pooja Sheth aspires to create a luxury niche in the world for<br />

lab-grown CVD diamonds from India<br />

Limelight Diamonds, India’s<br />

first luxury brand offering<br />

handcrafted lab-grown CVD<br />

diamond jewellery is pleased to<br />

announce that Pooja Sheth, Founder<br />

& Managing Director was felicitated<br />

as Technology Leader for Sustainable<br />

Diamond Creation at ET Business<br />

Icon award on 23rd January <strong>2020</strong>. ET<br />

Business Icons, an initiative by OMS<br />

- a Times group company identifies<br />

the contribution of the country’s most<br />

powerful enterprises in their respective<br />

fields.<br />

The forte of Limelight Diamonds<br />

lies in offering the most exquisite<br />

& carefully handcrafted diamond<br />

jewellery. Their forte lies in crafting<br />

the impeccable Type IIa diamonds,<br />

whose luster is analogous to that of the<br />

legendary Koh-i-Noor. Headquartered<br />

in Mumbai, they are a limited company<br />

backed by one of the world’s largest<br />

CVD diamond labs based in Surat.<br />

Pooja Sheth aspires to create a luxury<br />

niche in the world for lab-grown CVD<br />

diamonds from India. Hailing from<br />

an investment banking background,<br />

Pooja has amassed her knowledge from<br />

leading global education schools such<br />

98 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


<strong>DW</strong> Promotion<br />

“With Limelight Diamonds, we are making<br />

a socially responsible and sustainably<br />

conscious effort towards a brighter future<br />

for everyone in the real sense by creating<br />

an aesthetic that makes every design stand<br />

out.” - Pooja Sheth<br />

as the London School of Economics and<br />

Harvard Business School, USA. Having<br />

previously worked for Barclays Capital<br />

in London, she now heads the strategy<br />

& operations for Limelight Handcrafted<br />

Diamonds. Her sound understanding<br />

of management coupled with a global<br />

perspective sets her apart as the newage<br />

leader.<br />

Pooja is a strong advocate of<br />

sustainable and conscious living. With<br />

Limelight Diamonds, she wants to<br />

maintain the legacy, superior quality<br />

and yet build the category on the pillars<br />

of responsibility and sustainability.<br />

These diamonds are grown in a lab<br />

and not found in mines, hence they are<br />

conflict-free and sustainable, saving<br />

water and land extraction. The brand<br />

has been at the forefront of showcasing<br />

lab-grown CVD diamond-studded<br />

jewellery within the responsible luxury<br />

niche in India and globally. With the<br />

laboratories based in Surat, the Group<br />

annually produces large volumes of labproduced<br />

rough diamonds, unmatched<br />

in the world.<br />

On receiving this award, Pooja<br />

Sheth said,“We at Limelight Diamonds<br />

are very fortunate to be awarded this<br />

prestigious title by ET Business and<br />

will forever strive to deliver quality and<br />

an opportunity for conscious consumers<br />

to make a responsible choice. With<br />

Limelight Diamonds, we are making<br />

a socially responsible and sustainably<br />

conscious effort towards a brighter<br />

future for everyone in the real sense by<br />

creating an aesthetic that makes every<br />

design stand out and with technology<br />

that greatly reduces the environmental<br />

impact.”<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 99


Company FoCus<br />

(L-R) Harsh Arora - President Global Solutions - BVC Logistics, Rajesh Neelakanta - ED & CEO - BVC Logistics, Uday Chinai - Chairman, Bharat<br />

Badani - President - BVC Clearance, Yogesh Bansode - President - BVC Brinks & Krishna Bastikar - VP - BVC Brinks<br />

BVC Logistics<br />

Beacon of Inspiration: 60 Years<br />

of Safeguarding the Industry<br />

As the foremost leader of logistics & security, BVC Logistics<br />

has become this industry’s safe haven. 60 years since its<br />

modest beginning, the company has grown leaps and bounds,<br />

diversifying into unchartered territories and reaping success<br />

in doing so. Here’s the journey of a company whose vision and<br />

mission have had no bounds<br />

of Humble Beginnings &<br />

passing of the Torch<br />

Bhagwanji Vallabhji (BV) Chinai<br />

founded BVC as a customs brokerage<br />

company in Zaveri Bazaar, Mumbai<br />

in 1960. Uday Chinai, the present<br />

Chairman and son of B V Chinai<br />

joined the group in 1980 at a tender<br />

age of 18 and took the torch from<br />

his father, expanding the company<br />

strength to strength, from a customs<br />

broker company to an end-to-end<br />

logistics company for the diamond &<br />

jewellery industry. In 2013, Bhavik<br />

100 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Company FoCus<br />

Chinai joined the company as the<br />

third generation entrepreneur and<br />

under his leadership, the company<br />

today has become synonymous with<br />

logistics and security in the jewellery<br />

industry covering logistics, tourism,<br />

security, investments and technology<br />

under its wings.<br />

an Empire of a secure<br />

Logistics Company<br />

BVC Logistics was the first company<br />

in India to start organized customs<br />

brokerage for the diamond and<br />

jewellery industry. Since then, BVC has<br />

been a pillar of support to the industry<br />

by creating India’s first international<br />

secure door-to-door solution in 1980,<br />

thereafter domestic in 1999. As a<br />

leading customs broker, BVC’s format<br />

of the customs documents was adopted<br />

by the Indian Customs for all export<br />

and import in late 1980s. As the first<br />

enterprise in India to adopt EDI, use<br />

GPS enabled armoured trucks and<br />

enable shipping to 130 countries, BVC<br />

has led the industry’s evolution through<br />

example. Since 2013, BVC has grown<br />

exponentially, expanding their offices,<br />

team, solutions and customers, working<br />

with over 16,000 businesses in the<br />

mine to market value chain consisting<br />

of miners, manufacturers, wholesalers,<br />

retailers and e-tailers. BVC operated<br />

in 8 cities in 2013 and realized the<br />

domestic jewellery industry needs<br />

organized logistics for an ever growing<br />

share of organized trade. BVC grew<br />

from 8 cities to over 20 cities in a period<br />

of 3 months and thereafter has grown<br />

its presence in over 50 cities, servicing<br />

over 10,000 pincodes for door-to-door<br />

secure logistics.<br />

From having a team of less than<br />

200, BVC has grown to more than 1300<br />

individuals across India, Singapore and<br />

November 2019<br />

marks the start of<br />

BVC’s 60th year and<br />

BVC launched its<br />

new vision, Vision<br />

2022. The new<br />

vision of BVC is<br />

‘To Make Shipping<br />

The Competitive<br />

Advantage of 30,000<br />

Businesses by<br />

March 2022’<br />

Hong Kong. With hundreds of bullet-proof<br />

vehicles and a nationally appreciated<br />

signature vehicle design, BVC is<br />

synonymous with security and trust.<br />

BVC has historically worked with<br />

thousands of exporters and importers<br />

and since 2013 has grown the number<br />

of businesses it serves from 3,800 to<br />

over 16,000. Today, BVC provides its<br />

topnotch services to mining giants like<br />

Rio Tinto and De Beers as well as large,<br />

medium and small manufacturers,<br />

wholesalers, retailers and e-tailers.<br />

Bhagwanji Vallabhji (BV) Chinai, Founder, BVC Logistics<br />

achieving the unachievable<br />

In 2015, BVC started a specialized<br />

solution for e-commerce logistics and is<br />

a proud exclusive partner of Flipkart,<br />

Amazon and others for the jewellery<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 101


Company FoCus<br />

Timeline of success<br />

1960<br />

1980<br />

1988<br />

BVC starts its<br />

operations in<br />

Mumbai<br />

BVC Logistics<br />

achieves IATA<br />

accreditation<br />

Pioneers<br />

India’s first EDI<br />

System<br />

1999 1995 1992<br />

2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013 2009<br />

BVC Logistics<br />

starts global<br />

secure logistics<br />

The first official<br />

logistics partner<br />

for IIJS<br />

India network<br />

expanded to 6<br />

cities<br />

BVC Logistics<br />

handles logistics<br />

of Indian Premier<br />

League 2<br />

Expands its<br />

domestic presence<br />

to over 30 cities<br />

Launches the<br />

joint venture with<br />

Brinks Inc.<br />

Launches world’s first<br />

integrated logistics<br />

platform Vamaship<br />

Achieves 50%<br />

market share for<br />

the first time<br />

Launches BVC<br />

Consultancy<br />

BVC WeddingSHIP<br />

handles all<br />

destination Bollywood<br />

weddings<br />

Vamastores<br />

launches & Alibaba<br />

partnership inked<br />

Rajesh Neelakanta, CEO, BVC Logistics, Uday Chinai, Chairman, BVC Logistics, Bharat<br />

Badani,President, BVC Clearance & Yogesh Bansode, President, BVC Brinks at the<br />

launch of BVC Vision 2022<br />

category. BVC teamed with the customs<br />

to bring the cost of international B2C<br />

shipping down by over 70 per cent,<br />

enabling the growth of online sales.<br />

In 2014, BVC created the largest<br />

strategic collaboration of this industry<br />

by forming a joint venture with the 160<br />

year old American enterprise Brinks,<br />

enabling delivery within 24 hours in<br />

over 130 countries.<br />

In 2015, BVC started Vamaship, a<br />

technology platform making shipping<br />

easy and cheap for thousands of<br />

e-commerce SMEs across India which<br />

has today become India’s largest.<br />

Thereafter in 2017, BVC started<br />

BVC Consultancy. BVC Consultancy<br />

works with dozens of entities as an<br />

extended legal partner to decode<br />

customs regulation. BVC created<br />

solutions in 2018 to make any business<br />

export ready in 7 days and helps large<br />

enterprises receive AEO certification.<br />

In 2018, BVC launched its first<br />

direct to consumer solution ‘BVC<br />

WeddingSHIP’ where BVC does doorto-door<br />

secure logistics of jewellery for<br />

destination weddings, from the guests<br />

homes to the venue and back, offering<br />

absolute peace of mind for the largest<br />

life event.<br />

Beyond logistics for diamonds<br />

and jewellery, BVC supports almost<br />

every Indian luxury brand for secure<br />

logistics. Among its USP is its fully<br />

insured exhibition solution for private<br />

and public exhibitions. BVC is the<br />

proud Official Logistics Partner of over<br />

100 Indian exhibitions and all major<br />

global exhibitions.<br />

102 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Company FoCus<br />

Initiatives like Vamastores and<br />

Alibaba are the start of a range of<br />

solutions to help businesses find<br />

new customers in India and globally.<br />

Through deeper collaboration with<br />

ecosystem partners like banks and<br />

packaging manufacturers, BVC aims<br />

to create a holistic solution for all<br />

diamond and jewellery merchant needs.<br />

As a market leader, BVC’s vision is<br />

now to deepen relationships and bring<br />

logistics solutions which exist only in<br />

developed nations to India.<br />

BVC being awarded the best Customs Broker of the Year 2019 award at the 46th India Gems &<br />

Jewellery Awards (IGJA)<br />

In early 2019, BVC launched<br />

Vamastores which makes a jeweller<br />

e-commerce ready in 24 hours with<br />

a mobile friendly website integrated<br />

with payment gateways, logistics,<br />

SMS, email and dozen other and helps<br />

increase sales through listing inventory<br />

on jewellery marketplaces.<br />

In late 2019, Alibaba and BVC’s<br />

Vamaship collaborated for enabling<br />

exports for thousands of domestic<br />

jewellery merchants and increasing<br />

sales for exporting merchants. This<br />

long term partnership is going beyond<br />

jewellery to help handicrafts, textile<br />

and fashion merchants who work with<br />

Vamaship. BVC has been actively<br />

investing in technology startups<br />

and has invested in companies in<br />

crowdfunding, HR tech, legal tech and<br />

several high growth industries.<br />

a Vision like no other<br />

November 27, 2019 marks the start of<br />

BVC’s 60th year and BVC launches<br />

its new vision, Vision 2022. The new<br />

vision of BVC is ‘To Make Shipping<br />

The Competitive Advantage of 30,000<br />

Businesses by March 2022’.<br />

Today, logistics is a cost centre<br />

for every business and BVC aims to<br />

transform this and make shipping a<br />

competitive advantage where simply<br />

by using BVC to ship, businesses can<br />

make their customers’ experience a<br />

beautiful buying experience.<br />

To achieve this vision, BVC has set<br />

aggressive service targets like achieving<br />

delivery within 24 hours anywhere<br />

in India and deep use of technology.<br />

BVC is also expanding its geographical<br />

coverage from 10,000 pincodes to over<br />

20,000 pincodes, making hundreds of<br />

bullet-proof vehicles, recruiting over<br />

1000 BVCites, all over the coming 30<br />

months.<br />

In BVC’s philosophy, logistics is<br />

like electricity, road or water, it’s a<br />

utility. The way life in a village gets<br />

transformed by access to a new road,<br />

jewellers in small towns can transform<br />

their businesses through access to<br />

reliable secure logistics. BVC aims to<br />

go beyond logistics to become a partner<br />

for jewellers to increase sales and<br />

reduce indirect costs.<br />

a samaritan at Heart<br />

Making a difference to society is the<br />

reason for being in business for BVC<br />

and BVC Foundation is the group’s<br />

organization which focuses on making<br />

a difference in education, healthcare,<br />

animal welfare and supporting other<br />

Foundations.<br />

The Foundation runs three flagship<br />

events, the DOO Initiative, Blood<br />

Donation Week and Tree Plantation<br />

Drive. The DOO Initiative, held every<br />

May makes a difference to over 30,000<br />

kids in orphanages and adults in old<br />

age homes across over 30 states of<br />

India by contributing books, stationery<br />

and clothes.<br />

The Blood Donation Week, held in<br />

November is held in over 20 cities in<br />

India where the BVC ecosystem joins<br />

to maximize blood donated. BVC<br />

started planting over 1000 trees in its<br />

annual Tree Plantation Drive and aims<br />

to grow this by 10x over the coming<br />

years. Beyond direct initiatives, BVC<br />

supports several Foundations in their<br />

initiatives by contributing financially<br />

and its team’s time.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 103


Asked & Answered<br />

Bejewelled Romance<br />

Collection by<br />

Motisons Jewellers<br />

Diamonds Jewellery Sales<br />

HOW ARE YOU<br />

PROMOTING<br />

YOUR DIAMOND<br />

JEWELLERY?<br />

Four jewellers known for their<br />

exclusive diamond jewellery spill the<br />

beans on how they promote diamond<br />

jewellery to a customer who might<br />

actually be walking in to buy gold<br />

The sentiment as far as diamond jewellery is concerned has<br />

been tepid in India for some time now. With the wedding<br />

season going on, there may be some improvement, but<br />

overall, diamonds have not been quite the performers. Retailers are<br />

grabbing any and every opportunity to promote diamond jewellery<br />

at their stores. Special diamond sales, discounts on solitaires,<br />

buyback offers – the list is endless. However, when we spoke to these<br />

retailers, we understood that given the context today, promoting the<br />

authenticity of diamonds is the best way to capture the audience.<br />

Elegant Earrings<br />

crafted in 18 K gold<br />

and studded with<br />

rubies and fine-cut<br />

diamonds by Shobha<br />

Shringar Jewellers<br />

Diamond<br />

Jhumkas,<br />

VBJ<br />

104 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Asked & Answered<br />

No Discount<br />

Policy<br />

saurabh Baradia,<br />

Anopchand Tilokchand<br />

Jewellers, Raipur<br />

People are increasingly opting for<br />

affordable diamond jewellery<br />

which is priced below Rs 5 lakhs.<br />

When a customer walks in to buy<br />

gold jewellery with a set budget, we<br />

show him or her a few pieces of his<br />

or her liking, but eventually, we try to<br />

show him a few pieces in the diamond<br />

segment that fall under their budget.<br />

We don’t believe in giving discounts,<br />

rather we try to promote our low-end<br />

diamond jewellery through online<br />

mediums.<br />

Floral Inspired ring crafted in 18K gold with<br />

fine cut diamonds by Tanya Rastogi for Lala<br />

Jugal Kishore Jewellers<br />

Anti Discount<br />

Campaign<br />

Ujjwal Agarwal, Modern<br />

Jewellers, Bareilly<br />

We are purely promoting our diamond<br />

jewellery based on authenticity. We<br />

highlight that all our jewellery are IGI certified.<br />

Secondly, we are promoting them on an antidiscount<br />

basis. We tell our customers that other<br />

jewellers are offering diamond jewellery on an<br />

artificial discount; our campaigns state that<br />

customers should calculate the price and then<br />

buy diamond jewellery and not fall for discounts.<br />

So, our ads illustrate that a customer should<br />

compare the prices that we are offering with that<br />

of a jeweller who is giving a discount, through<br />

which they come to realise that our jewellery is<br />

priced lower. Promotions related to authenticity<br />

works best in the given scenario, price becomes<br />

secondary. If a person is selling diamond<br />

jewellery at a very low price, a customer wonders<br />

whether the diamonds in the jewellery are real<br />

or not. We don’t want to give the idea of the price<br />

in our campaign – it’s always about a diamond’s<br />

authenticity and design.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 105


Asked & Answered<br />

Neckpiece crafted in<br />

18K gold with fine cut<br />

diamonds by Tanya<br />

Rastogi for Lala Jugal<br />

Kishore Jewellers<br />

Presence in 5<br />

Star Hotels<br />

Ashraf Motiwala, AS<br />

Motiwala Fine Jewellery,<br />

Mumbai<br />

Besides typical bridal sets<br />

in diamonds, people are<br />

inclining towards gifting diamond<br />

jewellery. We have a robust social<br />

media presence to showcase<br />

our creations. We also retail our<br />

jewellery in about eight locations<br />

at Taj Hotels. Mostly, weddings<br />

happen in 5 Star properties, so we<br />

try to get a catchment of customers<br />

there, especially those who are<br />

looking to gift. All our jewellery in<br />

all our locations our IGI certified<br />

– we foresaw that there would<br />

be skepticism in the minds of<br />

consumers sooner or later about<br />

diamonds. So, now we are saying<br />

that our jewellery comes with a<br />

third party certificate about colour,<br />

clarity etc.<br />

Word of Mouth<br />

Venkata Bhanu, Ananth<br />

Diamonds, Vijayawada<br />

My clientele constitutes only<br />

of brides. We don’t make or<br />

sell light weight jewellery. Since it<br />

is the wedding season, the demand<br />

has been quite good. We don’t do<br />

any promotional activities for our<br />

jewellery. I have never advertised.<br />

Word of mouth works best for us.<br />

Vijayawada is a small city, and<br />

everybody knows everybody. Good<br />

or bad feedback, both spreads<br />

fast here. I exclusively rely on my<br />

designs – that is our selling point<br />

and has always been our selling<br />

point.<br />

Ring from ‘Yes I Do’<br />

Collection by Divine<br />

Solitaires<br />

Pearl Diamond<br />

Earrings by Varda<br />

Goenka Fine Jewels<br />

by Diagold<br />

106 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


The Rock Talk<br />

An aquamarine and<br />

Diamond brooch, by<br />

Tiffany & co<br />

Exquisite art deco<br />

Aquamarine and<br />

Diamond tiara necklace,<br />

Cartier<br />

DIVAS’ DREAM openwork ring<br />

in 18 kt white gold with an<br />

aquamarine and set with pavé<br />

diamonds, Bulgari<br />

Aquamarine<br />

The aqua effect<br />

These gorgeous stones with a hint of blue<br />

that mimic droplets of water so beautifully,<br />

are one of nature’s true miracles<br />

Oasi bracelet with aquamarine<br />

and diamonds set in white gold,<br />

Buccellati<br />

White gold Peau d’Âne collection<br />

aquamarine earrings with<br />

diamonds, sapphires and<br />

tourmalines, Van Cleef & Arpels<br />

78.33-carat Santa Maria aquamarine Hiver<br />

Impérial Baïkal necklace, Boucheron<br />

An aquamarine and<br />

Diamond ring, mounted by<br />

Cartier<br />

Aquamarine and<br />

diamond necklace,<br />

Bulgari<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 107


The Rock Talk<br />

High Jewellery<br />

Brooch Moon,<br />

Jewellery Theatre<br />

Earrings set with a half moon<br />

Colombian emerald and a half<br />

moon diamond, Moussaieff<br />

Phases Of<br />

The Moon<br />

Multi-<br />

Sapphire<br />

Necklace,<br />

Andrea<br />

Fohrman<br />

Star and Moon 18K Oxidized<br />

Gold, Diamond and Moonstone<br />

Earrings, Colette Jewelry<br />

Moon Motif<br />

Fly me to the Moon<br />

The moon in its various avatars has long<br />

been jewellers’ favourite. From half<br />

moons to fading crescents and those<br />

surrounded by glittering stars, here are<br />

our favourite picks<br />

Fly Me To The Moon Mismatched<br />

Gold-Tone, Crystal And Pearl<br />

Earrings, Shourouk<br />

Marquetry Moon & Star Earrings,<br />

Silvia Furmanovich<br />

Kundan Vintage Diamond<br />

And 18K Gold Crescent<br />

Pendant Necklace, Amrapali<br />

Sapphire cresecent moon earrings,<br />

Silvia Furmanovich<br />

Moon & sun<br />

necklace, Lele<br />

Sadoughi<br />

Savanna moon earrings,<br />

Eduarda Brunelli<br />

108 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


The Rock Talk<br />

Jubilee 22K Gold Multi-Stone<br />

Charm Bracelet, Mallary Marks<br />

Charm necklace, Grazia &<br />

Marica Vozza<br />

Vintage Charm Yellow Gold Bracelet, Eleuteri<br />

Antique Gold, Gemstone, and<br />

Diamond Charm Necklace,<br />

Renee Lewis<br />

Charm Jewellery<br />

enchanting charms<br />

Everybody can do with some luck. Charm jewellery with<br />

pretty trinkets are back in fashion. From multistone<br />

bracelets to necklaces with gemstone, diamond and gold<br />

charms, here are our favourite creations<br />

Button charms bracelet, Chanel<br />

Elephant<br />

charm<br />

bracelet,<br />

Van Cleef &<br />

Arpels<br />

Diamond Platinum<br />

Charm Bracelet<br />

with Heart Charms,<br />

Tiffany & Co.<br />

Happy<br />

Diamonds<br />

Lock and<br />

Key Charm<br />

Bracelet,<br />

Chopard<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 109


The Rock Talk<br />

18K Yellow Gold<br />

Rainbow Baguette<br />

Gold Link Choker,<br />

Shay<br />

14k Rainbow Mini<br />

Bar Necklace, EF<br />

Collection<br />

14KT Gold Rainbow Sapphire &<br />

Diamond Eternity Ring, The Foundry<br />

Rainbow Jewellery<br />

of hues & happiness<br />

A universal symbol of hope and happiness, rainbow, one of<br />

nature’s magical phenomenons has been a great inspiration for<br />

artists across the board. From dainty neck pieces and rings to<br />

chunky chokers and cocktail rings, here are some kaleidoscopic<br />

pieces that inject a dose of happiness with just a glance<br />

Rainbow Grommets<br />

Gold-Plated Brass And<br />

Cubic Zirconia Statement<br />

Earring, Joanna Laura<br />

Constantine<br />

Isabelle Rainbow Brass And<br />

Crystal Hoop Earrings, Dannijo<br />

18K Yellow Gold<br />

Rainbow Sapphire Eros<br />

Folded Heart Charm,<br />

Elena Votsi<br />

Inlay collection rainbow sapphire<br />

ring, Suzanne Kalan<br />

Rainbow sapphires<br />

& diamonds ring,<br />

Turgeon Raine<br />

One Of A Kind<br />

18K Gold Jumbo<br />

Rainbow Link<br />

Necklace, Shay<br />

Under The Rainbow 18K<br />

Gold Diamond AA Grade<br />

Pendant, Korite Ammolite<br />

Rainbow Pavé Cuore<br />

Ring, Carolina Bucci<br />

110 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


NatioN Notes<br />

Turkey<br />

The Ottoman<br />

Magic<br />

Gilan Istanbul -<br />

Theodora earrings<br />

The jewellery trade in Turkey is 500 years old. Much like<br />

other jewellery centers, global economic volatility and<br />

domestic political tensions have constantly tested the<br />

strength of the jewellery industry, however, its signature<br />

craftsmanship and affordable labour has made it one of<br />

the most sought-after hubs of jewellery<br />

112 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


NatioN Notes<br />

Ottoman<br />

Empire<br />

Diamond<br />

Necklace<br />

Turkish jewellery<br />

exports touched<br />

$7.2 billion in 2018,<br />

exceeding the<br />

previously set<br />

goal of $6 billion.<br />

The country<br />

exports<br />

jewellery to UK,<br />

United Arab<br />

Emirates,<br />

the U.S., Hong<br />

Kong and<br />

Switzerland<br />

Turkey holds a leading position<br />

amongst the jewellery exporting<br />

countries in the world. A large<br />

manufacturing base with affordable<br />

labour along with an increasing<br />

number of designers has helped Turkey<br />

in becoming an important jewellery<br />

making centre. Besides, the country’s<br />

important geographical location helps<br />

bridging East and West, making it an<br />

important distribution and re-export<br />

centre. Turkey’s jewellery industry<br />

received a huge boost with government<br />

decisions taken in the early 1980s to<br />

liberalize the gold trade and foreign<br />

exchange, according to the Turkish<br />

Jewelers Association (TAJ). The<br />

TAJ promotes the export of Turkish<br />

jewellery, advances the interests of the<br />

Turkish jewellery sector internationally,<br />

and supports the activities of the<br />

Turkish jewellery export sector. Turkish<br />

jewellery exports touched $7.2 billion<br />

in 2018, exceeding the previously set<br />

goal of $6 billion. The country exports<br />

jewellery to UK, United Arab Emirates,<br />

the U.S., Hong Kong and Switzerland.<br />

The mark Turkey has left globally<br />

as far as its jewellery is concerned is<br />

inimitable. With craftsmanship at par<br />

with its European manufacturers, it has<br />

managed to keep competitors at bay<br />

with its low prices.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 113


NatioN Notes<br />

There are more<br />

than 50<br />

major companies<br />

in which 200-1500<br />

qualified workers<br />

are employed. The<br />

industry is a huge<br />

one amongst the<br />

Turkish<br />

manufacturing<br />

industries and<br />

employs about<br />

2,50,000 people<br />

currently<br />

A ring from the Fauna<br />

collection, with a cabochon-cut<br />

emerald, Aida Bergsen Jewellery<br />

Market Potential &<br />

Craftsmanship<br />

According to the Turkish Trade<br />

Government, there are more than 50<br />

major companies in which 200-1500<br />

qualified workers are employed. The<br />

industry is a huge one amongst the<br />

Turkish manufacturing industries<br />

and employs about 2,50,000 people<br />

currently. Traditional Turkish jewellery<br />

making techniques include filigree<br />

(telkari), niello (savat) and wickerwork<br />

(hasir). Filigree is a technique in which<br />

the artist creates motifs by soldering<br />

together fine silver or gold wires.<br />

Since the wire used is often extremely<br />

delicate, this technique requires an<br />

almost infinite degree of patience.<br />

The niello technique is based on tiny,<br />

delicately-worked pieces of handpainted<br />

enamel which are partitioned<br />

by precious metals. In wickerwork,<br />

another technique used by Turkish<br />

jewellers, delicate wires are woven<br />

together.<br />

Journey<br />

to Dreams<br />

collection -<br />

Gilan<br />

Ottoman Empire<br />

Diamond Brooch<br />

114 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


NatioN Notes<br />

Istanbul Jewelry Show<br />

Istanbul Jewelry Show is referred as the<br />

bridge between European and Middle<br />

East markets. The biannual show<br />

takes place in March and October. The<br />

October 2019 edition saw a 12 per cent<br />

increase in the number of international<br />

visitors. Istanbul Jewelry Show plays<br />

an important role to Turkish Jewelry<br />

Industry reach its 2019 export target of<br />

USD 6 billion and March and October<br />

Exhibitions of Istanbul Jewelry Show<br />

broke its own record by hosting over 50<br />

thousand jewellery buyers in 2019.<br />

Chance collection, Boybeyi<br />

Love for Gold<br />

Much like India, the Turkish people love<br />

gold. It’s second nature and plays an<br />

important role in their cultural milieu.<br />

In the third quarter of 2019, global<br />

tensions led to an upward movement<br />

in global gold prices, however, Turkey<br />

recorded the highest purchases in gold<br />

in this period and reached 385.5 tons<br />

in total gold reserves. According to<br />

WGC’s Gold Demand Trends report<br />

for the third quarter, while worldwide<br />

demand for gold continued to increase,<br />

the Central Bank of the Republic of<br />

Turkey (CBRT) came to the fore among<br />

the world’s central banks with largest<br />

amount of gold purchased in the third<br />

quarter. The world gold council released<br />

a report on World Gold Holdings, which<br />

stated that Turkey holds 415.2 tonnes<br />

of gold, ranking number 14, in the list<br />

of countries that reserves gold.<br />

Market Trends<br />

According to Euromonitor, China<br />

declared 2018 Turkish Tourism Year,<br />

which boosted the number of Chinese<br />

inbound tourists to Turkey in 2018<br />

and into 2019. After a lackluster<br />

performance in 2017, jewellery<br />

recorded much improved retail value<br />

growth figures in 2018/2019, supported<br />

by this initiative. The report also stated<br />

that product placement in Turkish soap<br />

operas such as Yasak Elma and Ufak<br />

Tefek Cinayetler is a key marketing<br />

tool. Manufacturers such as Gülaylar<br />

Altin, Altinbas and Assos ve Atasay<br />

have begun to work closely with media<br />

channels to promote their products<br />

in the most effective way possible.<br />

Endorsements by celebrities and<br />

influencers remained important parts<br />

of the marketing mix in 2018/2019,<br />

with jewellery players using these<br />

endorsements for limited periods to<br />

position their brands as trendy. In<br />

2018, the leader in jewellery, Atasay<br />

Kuyumculuk, collaborated with a<br />

popular social media influencer, Seyma<br />

Subasi, launching a special line which<br />

was supported by the celebrity.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 115


Design stuDio<br />

Sylva Yepremain -<br />

Sylva & Cie<br />

Back<br />

in Time<br />

Los Angeles based Sylva<br />

& Cie has garnered<br />

loyalists across the<br />

board for its pieces that<br />

transports the wearer<br />

back in time. Designer<br />

Sylva Yepremain, with<br />

her Middle Eastern<br />

upbringing and<br />

European influence<br />

injects so much soul<br />

into every single piece<br />

she makes. They are<br />

beautifully outlandish<br />

and truly one-ofakind<br />

observes Vijetha<br />

Rangabashyam<br />

116 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Design stuDio<br />

Large button earrings that glow<br />

with opals surrounded by<br />

diamonds, an 18th Century<br />

Russian Icon Cross fashioned into a<br />

pendant set in rose gold with single<br />

cut diamonds or a pair of Lava cameo<br />

flower stud earrings encircled with<br />

diamonds – when you look at Sylva’s<br />

jewellery, you can rest assured that<br />

she loves gemstones and treats them<br />

with the respect they deserve and that<br />

she panders to nobody’s whim except<br />

her own. The story of how she began<br />

her journey along with her husband<br />

Raffi Yepremain is the stuff you read<br />

in novels or watch in movies. Two<br />

Lebanese jewellers, who were best<br />

friends, migrated to Los Angeles from<br />

Beirut to realise the American Dream.<br />

Decades of thick friendship came to<br />

a halt when their son and daughter<br />

exchanged glances in an elevator at<br />

the building where both their parents<br />

had their establishments. Not only did<br />

their parents eventually come around<br />

but Sylva & Raffi’s union also led<br />

them to continue their fathers’ legacy,<br />

of creating jewellery that celebrated<br />

Lebanon’s prodigious jewellery<br />

craftsmanship. “My passion for<br />

jewellery is most definitely inherited.<br />

I come from a long line of artisans<br />

and artists and I’ve been thought to<br />

recognize admire and respect excellent<br />

craftsmanship,” says Sylva.<br />

When you look at all of Sylva’s<br />

pieces, you find yourself in a<br />

conundrum – whether she goes in<br />

search of these exceptional reclaimed<br />

stones one after the other or they find<br />

her instead, because what she fashions<br />

out of them is soulful, almost like it’s<br />

is the only way they are meant to be.<br />

She is minimalist in her approach,<br />

yet her pieces are noticeable from<br />

My client is a<br />

collector who<br />

wants to<br />

stand out in oneof-a-kind<br />

pieces.<br />

She knows<br />

what she wants.<br />

She also wants<br />

wearable luxury.<br />

She wants to be<br />

able to wear her<br />

jewellery every<br />

day<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 117


Design stuDio<br />

I’ve learned all<br />

I know from my<br />

father who is a 70+<br />

year bench master.<br />

Having lived in<br />

both Lebanon<br />

and Paris has<br />

definitely shaped<br />

my esthetics and<br />

I’m always striving<br />

to create a new<br />

language within<br />

my Middle Eastern<br />

and European<br />

influences<br />

any corner. Her designs are clean and<br />

simple and there is no hodgepodge of<br />

gemstones – she makes the gemstones<br />

shine with a smattering of diamonds at<br />

the most. Most of her pieces are Gothic<br />

in appeal – dark, mysterious and rustic;<br />

the beauty in these pieces doesn’t come<br />

from the fact that they are sparkly, like<br />

with most jewels, but from the fact<br />

that they have been sourced for their<br />

organic appearance.<br />

It feels wrong to say that Sylva hasn’t<br />

had any formal training. If years of<br />

watching her father who has been an<br />

expert bench master for decades is not<br />

training, then what is? “I’ve learned<br />

all I know from my father who is a 70+<br />

year bench master. Having lived in<br />

both Lebanon and Paris has definitely<br />

shaped my esthetics and I’m always<br />

striving to create a new language within<br />

my Middle Eastern and European<br />

influences.”<br />

She works with medallions, cameos,<br />

diamond roughs, conch shells, mother<br />

of pearls, dinosaur bone and what not.<br />

Sylva finds beauty in the strangest of<br />

materials, what most jewellers would<br />

rubbish as lacking in aesthetics. So<br />

her clientele that constitutes the likes<br />

of Oprah & Reese Witherspoon, like to<br />

wear jewellery that isn’t flamboyant and<br />

showy yet they root for pieces that are<br />

innately precious and one-of-a-kind.<br />

“My client is a collector that wants to<br />

stand out in one-of-a-kind pieces. She<br />

knows what she wants. She also wants<br />

wearable luxury. She wants to be able<br />

to wear her jewellery every day.”<br />

These pieces which are diligently<br />

handcrafted by Sylva’s craftsmen<br />

take you back in time, to another<br />

118 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Design stuDio<br />

world, which most people vicariously<br />

live through books and movies. But<br />

she is one of the few jewellers who<br />

transport you to a bygone era with<br />

her creations. “Lately I’ve been<br />

really interested in the 40’s and 50’s,<br />

jewellery drastically changed with<br />

those two decades from feminine and<br />

ornate to more architectural shapes.<br />

My latest collection encompasses<br />

some of these qualities.”<br />

Though she comes from a family<br />

of jewellers, Sylva wasn’t handed<br />

everything in a platter. Her journey has<br />

been one of self introspection, of what<br />

the world wants and what she wants.<br />

When she decided to take the plunge to<br />

design her jewellery, she decided that<br />

she wants to do it her way and either<br />

people like it or they don’t. What has<br />

worked for her is also a set of niche<br />

clients, who find her imagination and<br />

creative process interesting. “I think<br />

the market has changed these last few<br />

years. Consumers are less interested<br />

in having luxury for the masses and<br />

are more seeking to make an emotional<br />

connection with their next purchase of<br />

jewellery.”<br />

Inspiration for someone like Sylva<br />

could come from anywhere. However,<br />

she loves the Alahambra palace. “A few<br />

places have influenced me as much as<br />

my visit to Alhambra, Spain. The mix<br />

of the Moorish architecture and designs<br />

mixed with European influences speaks<br />

to me!”<br />

The market has<br />

changed these<br />

last few years.<br />

Consumers are less<br />

interested<br />

in having luxury<br />

for the masses and<br />

are more seeking to<br />

make an emotional<br />

connection with<br />

their next purchase<br />

of jewellery<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 119


Red CaRpet Jewels<br />

Jewellery at Golden<br />

Globes, Grammys & SAG<br />

spaRKlY<br />

Moments!<br />

The award season just came to<br />

a close and fashion enthusiasts<br />

across the globe waited with<br />

bated breath to find out the<br />

trends that dominated the red<br />

carpets this season. Diamonds<br />

have always been celebrities’<br />

favourite and this year too, the<br />

stars dripped in diamonds as<br />

they sashayed the red carpets<br />

in stunning gowns at the<br />

Globes, SAG & Grammys<br />

Golden Globes and Screen Actors<br />

Guild paved way for some major<br />

sartorial moments for the world to see.<br />

From diamond chokers with a vibrant splash<br />

of coloured gemstones, collar bone-hugging<br />

statement necklaces to vintage pieces and<br />

diamond studded hair accessories; there sure<br />

was no dearth of sparkle on the red carpet this<br />

year. Men too took the spotlight for accessorising<br />

their outfits with jewellery to the nines.<br />

Golden Globes<br />

Priyanka Chopra<br />

wore a high jewellery necklace<br />

featuring over 56 carats of<br />

diamonds and diamond earrings<br />

by Bulgari.<br />

Jennifer Aniston slayed<br />

in a vintage Cartier necklace<br />

from the 1950s, courtesy of Fred<br />

Leighton, along with two Art<br />

Deco rings that complemented<br />

her entire look.<br />

120 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Red CaRpet Jewels<br />

Olivia Colman, who won<br />

Best Actress in a TV Drama<br />

Series for The Crown, chose<br />

to make a political statement<br />

with her diamonds. One of her<br />

three rings read, “50/50, Equal<br />

Representation for Actresses.”<br />

Ansel Elgort wore the<br />

Enchant butterfly brooch<br />

in platinum and sapphires.<br />

The actor also wore a Tiffany<br />

1837 Makers 27 mm square<br />

watch in stainless steel and a<br />

stunning platinum ring with<br />

a Sri Lankan sapphire of over<br />

nine carats and diamonds.<br />

Gillian<br />

Anderson wore a<br />

dazzling platinum and<br />

diamond drop earrings<br />

worth $40,000 while her<br />

Tiffany Circlet diamond<br />

necklace are worth<br />

$165,000.<br />

Cynthia Erivo’s left no stones turned<br />

when it came to dazzling at the red carpet.<br />

She wore $5 million worth of jewels. The<br />

centerpiece of her choker was a 40-carat<br />

sapphire cabochon, surrounded by 56.65<br />

carats of diamonds and sapphires. It’s<br />

valued at over $3 million. She also wore<br />

three rings and an earful of earrings.<br />

Billy Porter, one of the most talked<br />

about celebrity from the awards this season,<br />

wore a $46,500 Tiffany and Co dragonfly<br />

brooch, necklace and rings. The necklace<br />

itself had a 40-carat diamond pendant and<br />

was worth $2 million.<br />

Jennifer Lopez, who was<br />

nominated for Best Supporting<br />

Actress, looked like a million<br />

bucks in more than 145 carats<br />

of Colombian emeralds and<br />

diamonds by Harry Winston.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 121


Red CaRpet Jewels<br />

SAG<br />

Jennifer Lopez paired $9 million worth of Harry<br />

Winston jewels with her off-shoulder black Georges Hobeika<br />

gown. It included six pieces that totaled nearly 200 carats, most<br />

notably a 73.55-carat cascading diamond drop necklace.<br />

Lupita Nyong’o’s rings and<br />

chandelier earrings shone as bright as her<br />

smile! The actress wore 90 carats worth of<br />

Forevermark diamonds.<br />

122 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


Red CaRpet Jewels<br />

Michelle Williams ensured<br />

she made a memorable impression<br />

with her Forevermark 6.37-carat<br />

diamond feather brooch clipped<br />

just above her ear. Her retroinspired<br />

blonde bob suited the hair<br />

accessory perfectly.<br />

Charlize<br />

Theron wore<br />

a Tiffany & Co.<br />

bracelet as a<br />

hair accessory<br />

making way for<br />

a new trend that<br />

everyone is talking<br />

about<br />

Scarlett Johansson complemented her<br />

body hugging gown and sleek hair do with long<br />

earrings in ceramic with three dimensional pave<br />

diamond drops by James de Givenchy for Taffin<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 123


Red CaRpet Jewels<br />

Ariana Grande donned<br />

diamond studs worth $2.5 million<br />

from Lorraine Schwartz with her<br />

puffy Giambattista Valli gown.<br />

Lizzo arrived on the<br />

Grammys red carpet<br />

in an all white Versace<br />

with Lorraine Schwartz<br />

diamond jewellery. She<br />

paired the dress with<br />

a whopping $2 million<br />

worth of Lorraine Schwartz<br />

diamond jewellery.<br />

Camila Cabello slayed<br />

the red carpet with a $2 million<br />

diamond necklace by Le Vian<br />

that complemented her gorgeous<br />

black Goth gown by Versace<br />

Grammys<br />

Heidi Klum opted for a<br />

long Lorraine Schwartz diamond<br />

necklace, which was the perfect<br />

addition to her gilded gown.<br />

Diplo had<br />

as all in awe<br />

with Bulgari’s<br />

turquoise,<br />

cabochon<br />

sapphires,<br />

and brilliantcut<br />

diamond<br />

necklace from<br />

their Heritage<br />

collection<br />

FKA Twigs<br />

wore two pieces<br />

from upscale<br />

antique jeweller<br />

Bentley &<br />

Skinner. A<br />

Victorian opal and<br />

diamond necklace<br />

from 1890 along<br />

with tulip-shaped<br />

diamond earrings<br />

made by the<br />

jeweller.<br />

124 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD


ExpErt Column<br />

Diamond Price Index<br />

The Importance of<br />

Diamond Price Index<br />

The significance of an index is essential to<br />

track and measure the value of your solitaire<br />

diamond says Jignesh Mehta, Founder &<br />

Managing Director Divine Solitaires<br />

Transparency brings trust and trust<br />

is essential for any business to<br />

establish relations and a connect<br />

with the consumers. This decree applies<br />

to the gems and jewellery industry as well.<br />

Consumers today are evolved and mindful<br />

when purchasing jewellery. Though they do<br />

trust jewellers, they they come prepared with<br />

their own study on pricing, value and other<br />

parameters in order not to get deceived.<br />

A price index is a normalised average<br />

(typically a weighted average) of price<br />

relatives for a given class of goods or services<br />

in a given region, during a given interval<br />

of time. It is a statistic designed to help to<br />

compare how these price relatives, taken<br />

as a whole, differ between time periods or<br />

geographical locations.<br />

Consumers refer to the price index of<br />

precious metals like gold and silver when<br />

purchasing their jewellery but when it<br />

comes to solitaire diamonds that is not<br />

the case.<br />

A Diamond Price Index (DPI) is a<br />

representation of the current market pricing<br />

trend for diamonds. The DPI takes into<br />

account the average retail price per carat<br />

of loose diamonds from jewelers around<br />

the web. Prices are calculated for groups<br />

of weight ranges as well as by colour and<br />

clarity.<br />

The DPI ushers transparency in the<br />

diamond industry and standardisation in the<br />

pricing of diamonds. Every single diamond<br />

is documented using a nationwide standard<br />

and transparent price list. Each month’s<br />

DPI reflects the change in diamond prices<br />

which is compared to the previous month’s<br />

and year’s figures.For diamond jewellery<br />

consumers, potential or regular, who keep<br />

an eye out for the trends in solitaire prices,<br />

this index serves as a very helpful one-stop<br />

reference point.<br />

Just like any other consumer good, Alfred<br />

Marshall’s Law of Demand and Supply<br />

applies to diamonds as well. Demand and<br />

Supply and overall economic performance<br />

of the country majorly affect the pricing<br />

of diamonds. It’s essential that consumers<br />

know the real-time price and its actual value<br />

and hence a DPI is essential to track.<br />

The price of a diamond is generally<br />

decided depending on the four basic<br />

attributes of cut, colour, carat and clarity.<br />

However parameters like its depth and<br />

fluorescence also affect pricing. Jewellers<br />

end up giving consumers a vague estimate<br />

when it comes to the change in the price;<br />

therefore diamonds needa DPI for uniform<br />

pricing.<br />

An index like DPI helps in bringing<br />

out the real asset value of the diamond. A<br />

diamond is a beautiful asset and consumers<br />

have the right to know the value for their<br />

money. If diamond jewellers provide<br />

consumers with surety on the resale value<br />

of their diamonds along with certificates,<br />

consumers know they are in safe hands.<br />

Reliable brands always practice diamond<br />

pricing. Usually, the consumers make a<br />

mistake in their purchasing decisions by not<br />

opting for certifications and not preferring<br />

reputed jewellers.<br />

Buying jewellery like diamonds requires<br />

research and planning or else one can end<br />

up paying more or being duped without<br />

knowing the basics. When purchasing<br />

diamonds it’s important to not just be<br />

well informed but also make a legitimate<br />

investment.<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 125


Stone talk<br />

Citrine<br />

From yellow to brownish or reddish orange<br />

and everything in between, citrine comes in an<br />

assortment of warm colours, making it a great<br />

autumn birthstone. This variety of quartz has been<br />

used in jewellery for centuries, although most<br />

historical citrine jewellery dates from the Victorian era.<br />

Often available in large sizes and with high clarity,<br />

it has become a popular and affordable choice for<br />

everyday jewellery.This stone symbolizes energy,<br />

confidence and success.<br />

Colour<br />

Citrine is traditionally known for its yellow colour. That is why<br />

its name means “lemon-coloured” in French and Latin. The most<br />

valuable citrine is a saturated yellow to reddish orange without<br />

any brown tints. Contemporary jewellery, however, often features<br />

brownish or reddish orange citrine marketed under delectable<br />

names such as “butterscotch” or “whiskey” citrine.<br />

Citrine and amethyst can occur in the same crystal. The unusual,<br />

bi-coloured gem that results is called ametrine.<br />

©GIA <strong>2020</strong>. GIA®, the GIA logo and Gemological Institute of America® are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.<br />

126 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD<br />

ADT190135_India_Advertorial_Citrine_Spread_v3.indd All Pages


Stone talk<br />

Clarity<br />

Citrine is known for its clarity and does not typically<br />

contain eye-visible inclusions. Inclusions lower its value.<br />

Treatments<br />

Naturally-coloured citrine is rare; most citrine is amethyst<br />

or smoky quartz that has been heat-treated to change its<br />

colour to yellow.<br />

Sources<br />

The top sources for natural citrine are Bolivia, Spain,<br />

Madagascar, Mexico and Uruguay. However, the majority<br />

of citrine on the market today is heat-treated amethyst from<br />

Brazil. Bolivia is the only commercial producer of ametrine.<br />

To learn more about citrine and other popular gemstones,<br />

visit GIA.edu/gem-encyclopedia<br />

This article is provided by GIA (Gemological Institute of America ® ).<br />

GIA.edu<br />

Images Courtesy of: Arya Esha<br />

Learn More About GIA Education Programmes and Laboratory Services in India<br />

GIAindia.in Email: labindia@gia.edu Email: eduindia@gia.edu<br />

DiamonD WorlD | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | 127<br />

1/29/20 11:47 AM


ExpErt Column<br />

Diamond Education<br />

What Does Diamond<br />

Education Really Mean?<br />

Ben Prior, sales executive at De Beers Group Industry<br />

Services, reflects on a busy 2019 and explores what<br />

independent retailers can do to enhance their diamond<br />

knowledge and prepare for consumer scrutiny in <strong>2020</strong><br />

Today’s end-consumer is really<br />

discerning. With the accessibility<br />

of the internet, many shoppers have<br />

done incredible amounts of research before<br />

they enter your independent jewellery retail<br />

business. They arrive armed with knowledge<br />

of the 4Cs, but also a deeper understanding<br />

of colour grading, clarity grading, fancy cuts<br />

and colours, settings and precious metals. To<br />

engage this kind of self-educated consumer,<br />

a sales associate needs to be able to impart<br />

diamond wisdom in a way that can’t be<br />

replicated online. That means handling<br />

diamonds, demonstrating, perhaps with a<br />

loupe, the differences between stones and<br />

sharing the history, heritage and properties<br />

of diamonds in a way that builds a complete,<br />

‘diamond story’.<br />

In recent months, the team at De Beers<br />

Group Industry Services and our educational<br />

arm, De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds,<br />

has worked with national and international<br />

retail businesses who recognise the need<br />

to be one step ahead. In Thailand, for<br />

example, we have an on-going relationship<br />

with retail jeweller, Aurora – a business<br />

that really understand the importance of<br />

continuous professional development for its<br />

staff. Aurora has just over 200 stores across<br />

Thailand. It needs to ensure its staff have<br />

the confidence to handle diamonds and an<br />

ability to use the 4Cs as a foundation when<br />

telling the ‘diamond story’ behind each<br />

piece. In the autumn of 2019, we trained<br />

200 Aurora staff members over two weeks<br />

in Bangkok. Our courses were translated<br />

live into Thai making this one of the most<br />

ambitious and large-scale retail training<br />

projects we have ever worked on.<br />

Aurora has gone to such efforts to<br />

drive its diamond sales, but also to build<br />

consumer confidence in its staff as ‘diamond<br />

experts’. Now, 200 of its staff members<br />

have the knowledge to answer a wide<br />

range of questions, identify the differences<br />

between diamonds, and consider how these<br />

differences impact the final grading report<br />

of each stone.<br />

De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds<br />

retail training courses translate our<br />

Diamond Foundation Course knowledge<br />

for real-life sales situations. Just as every<br />

diamond is different, so too is every sales<br />

scenario. Our retail training focuses on<br />

understanding the areas in which consumers<br />

lack information or confidence, while using<br />

diamond knowledge to provide solutions,<br />

raise awareness and build face-to-face<br />

relationships.<br />

In the UK market, we have found<br />

that retailers are utilising the De Beers<br />

Group Institute of Diamonds Diamond<br />

Foundation course to get staff up-to-speed.<br />

We are entering a new chapter in diamond<br />

education. We have to go above and beyond<br />

what the customer can quickly search<br />

online, right to the heart of the ‘diamond<br />

story’. Being able to impart knowledge<br />

and practically demonstrate what makes<br />

diamonds special in the retail context is<br />

what diamond education is all about for<br />

<strong>2020</strong> and beyond.<br />

Find out more about De Beers<br />

Group Institute of Diamonds by visiting<br />

debeersgroupinstitute.com<br />

128 | january-february <strong>2020</strong> | DiamonD WorlD

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